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Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk freshness, clean minerality, excellent clarity of…
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Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk freshness, clean minerality, excellent clarity of terroir. Jasper Morris MW is also a fan, writing in early 2023, “I must say that Cyril Gautheron’s wines are climbing up my table of Chablis producers.” Fourneaux premier cru is another right bank premier cru and lies just down the slope from the Gautherons’ winery in the hamlet of Fleys. There’s more clay in the soils here, which adds some power, and the name (meaning “oven”) refers to the warm, sunny valley where sits the domaine. The wine is raised entirely in tank, and lacks for nothing in the way of complexity. The Fourneaux 2021 is delightful, with white more than yellow peach in a pleasantly chalky nose and a particularly nice balance in the mouth. It has an elegant, unctuous concentration that persists on the palate and finishes long. With intense fruit and a nice dollop of sucrocité, this is sure to be a crowd pleaser – perfectly balanced Chablis.
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The Vaillons premier cru lies on a slope parallel to Montmains on Chablis’s left…
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The Vaillons premier cru lies on a slope parallel to Montmains on Chablis’s left bank, known as a source of chiseled, vibrant wines. Gautheron’s Vaillons 2021 is round and full on the palate despite the vintage’s relative freshness. Morris gave it 90-93 points, writing: “Very pale colour, with impressive tension on the nose. The stones are there and a bit of flesh, too, pure and typical with the usual dry finish. Old vines here. Really very long.”  This is everything you want from Chablis – savory intensity, perfectly ripe fruit, brisk stony backbone and laser focused finish. This needs no accompaniment – a delicious, complete glass of white wine on its own. But should hunger force your hand, this will match anything in need of zip – scallops, creamy oysters, swordfish, lobster, chicken sausages, etc
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Jancis Robinson: "A very classy Hautes-Côtes de Beaune with a precise, chiselled character... Plenty…
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Jancis Robinson: "A very classy Hautes-Côtes de Beaune with a precise, chiselled character... Plenty of freshness... Nice mineral hint to finish." Jasper Morris (5 stars): "This has a most beautiful bouquet, just the right degree of ripeness, the lightest of peaches but no honeysuckle. Just the right acidity too, drink this unsparingly across the summer months."
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s newly formed Domaine du Couvent is quietly making a stellar name…
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s newly formed Domaine du Couvent is quietly making a stellar name for itself from its unmarked and unadorned cuverie in Nuits-St-Georges. Cheron perfectly navigated the 2021 vintage, and his wines are beautifully formed from top to bottom. None was more successful than his humble Bourgogne rouge. Cheron’s only regional-level wine comes from two plots around Gevrey-Chambertin, and the wine’s fruit has an unmistakably Côte de Nuits tenor. The nose is dark and pretty with violets and red berries; the mouth is sleek and fresh with notable length and notes of plum, rose petals, and toast. Burghound awarded it his “outstanding for the appellation” award, finding it “vibrant and solidly voluminous” with “good detail and… fine length.”  Jasper Morris found it “very pretty with a lively finish”
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The 2021 Red Burgundies have a reputation as inconsistent and tricky, but someone forgot…
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The 2021 Red Burgundies have a reputation as inconsistent and tricky, but someone forgot to tell Gautier. His lineup of 2021 Givrys is outstanding top to bottom, with each cuvée perfectly balanced and crafted – ripe plummy fruit, gorgeous floral aromatics, and sleek, polished textures. William Kelley credits the improvements in Gautier’s wines to the use of manure for fertilizer, a more careful oak regime, lighter filtration, and longer elevage. The Givry 1er cru Clos Charlé is seriously classy red Burgundy. The nose is deep and beautiful, with wild cherries, chocolate, baking spice and cinnamon. Again the extraction is masterful – just enough armature to match the material. It’s noticeably longer than the village, but not a bit harsh, with tannins that are subtle, papery, and fine.
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Romain Collet took over as principal winemaker not long ago, and he has transformed…
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Romain Collet took over as principal winemaker not long ago, and he has transformed the winemaking. He is both a very talented winemaker and an innovator — for proof one need only walk through the cellar, where the stainless steel tanks and large foudres are now joined by cement eggs, demi-muids, and most recently, amphorae. This top premier cru vineyard produced very attractive wine in 2020, offering a combination of power, length, and complexity that is hard to beat. The nose is deep, dry, and beautifully layered, with white flowers, saline, seashells and lemon peel. The mouth is rich but not heavy, with oak carefully integrated and notes of dry apple and stones. Jasper Morris gave 90-93, calling it “harmonious” and “one of the more powerful wines” in the lineup. Burghound awarded 90-92, finding “excellent volume” and calling it “unusually powerful yet refined.”
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"Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis…
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"Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, 2024 At the premier cru level, 2022 offers an embarrassment of riches.  Gautheron’s Chablis 1er cru “Vaucoupin” has many loyal buyers. It is always raised entirely in stainless steel, yielding an impressive purity of fruit. In 2022, Morris praised its “good tension, with lemon and lime, a little youthful bitterness, very promising in its classical Vaucoupin style.” We found a note of white peach among the citrus
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"Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis…
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"Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, 2024 Their vines here are old ones, and lie at both the top and the bottom of Vaillons’ long slope. Vaillons is classic left bank Chablis – cooler and less sunny – and the wine is drier and more piercing than Gautheron’s others. Morris was particularly impressed with the domaine’s Vaillons in 2022, projecting a score of 94 and writing "All in white fruit, barely even any lemons, with the requisite drier stony finish and the pleasing youthful grip. A fine example.”
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