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The Cornas 2022 is delicious -- a big wine with an attractive mouthfeel. The dark…
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The Cornas 2022 is delicious -- a big wine with an attractive mouthfeel. The dark fruit, mingling with cloves and spice, emerges slowly in the glass. We think this wine will drink well immediately, and be really turning heads in a few years.  Vinous found it “polished and forward” and praised the “glossy red fruits paired with spicy undertones of black pepper and licorice.” Like the St. Joseph, this wine should offer years of drinking pleasure.
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In recent years the Northern Rhône valley has become a source of unusual value…
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In recent years the Northern Rhône valley has become a source of unusual value. As prices in Burgundy have skyrocketed, and prices in Bordeaux have whipsawed back and forth, Côte Rôtie and Cornas have maintained a steady, modest rise. The wines have never been better, and suddenly they seem like bargains. Rochins comes from 60+ year old vines in a parcel just next to the famous Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. The nose is dark and woodsy with an irresistible mixture of spices, wild cherries, smoke and violets. The mouth is velvety and beautiful, still with plenty of material but beginning to put on a smooth patina now six years after harvest.
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for…
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures. The side valley between Chassagne and Puligny holds the better-known town of St. Aubin, and the Domaine owns a parcel there in the celebrated premier cru “En Remilly.” The 2023 vintage is an elegant wine with excellent length. Sofie’s signature compact yellow fruit is here in spades, balanced expertly with the stoniness for which St-Aubin is known. This is classic dry St. Aubin, with floral notes in play alongside the concentrated ripe fruit.
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Perched at the base of the hill of Corton, the tiny town of Ladoix…
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Perched at the base of the hill of Corton, the tiny town of Ladoix lies at the junction between the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. It’s here that the Ravaut family has made wine for generations, and today Vincent Ravaut and his sons are making wines that are truly exciting. They’re certified EU organic, have dialed back oak, have stopped filtering, and have abandoned pigeage to extract their reds.Ravaut’s Aloxe-Corton is magnificent this year. It’s more refined and tightly packed, with intensity that belies its old-vine source. The pure red fruits are stony and elegant, with a serious, sturdy core that’s impeccably balanced. This is a very serious wine, particularly for its price point, and should be given 3-5 years in the cellar. It will reward patience many times over, unmistakable proof that a $100 price tag is not a requirement for cellaring potential.
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On complexity, layers, and depth, it easily competes with a premier cru from the…
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On complexity, layers, and depth, it easily competes with a premier cru from the Côte de Nuits – the meaty character reminded us of an old-vine Nuits-St-Georges. Those mostly run $120-$150 these days; while not exactly a by-the-glass candidate, Bonnefond’s Rochins doesn’t even crack $80. Rochins comes from 60+ year old vines in a parcel just next to the famous Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. The nose is dark and woodsy with an irresistible mixture of spices, wild cherries, smoke and violets. The mouth is velvety and beautiful, still with plenty of material but beginning to put on a smooth patina now five years after harvest.
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The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in 1550; for centuries, like many Burgundy…
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The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in 1550; for centuries, like many Burgundy domaines, they sold their entire production each year to the negociants of Beaune. Today it’s brothers Romauld and Romaric making the wines as the 15th generation of Boursots. Vinous’s Neal Martin describes Boursot’s wines as “superb,” “excellent,” “very fine,” and “worth seeking out.” Chambolle-Musigny is one of Burgundy’s greatest terroirs, and it is here that the Boursots’ wines really shine. The village level Chambolle “Les Nazoires” 2020 offers pleasant freshness in a silky smooth package. Given the sheer amount of flavor packed into this village-level wine, it may take a few years until it fully hits its stride, but can be counted on to provide much pleasure over the next decade.
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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny…
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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny house in Cramant in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. All of their wines come from grapes they grow themselves, and their vineyards are 100% Chardonnay from exclusively Grand Cru vineyards. Everything here is done by hand, from harvesting and riddling to disgorging, dosing and labeling. This “Dualisme” is  Extra Brut, and comes from 40 year old vines in the two famous towns of Chouilly and Avize. This cuvée is equal parts 2017 and 2015 base, with 15% coming from reserve barrels. With 5 years on the lees, this is prettier and more savory than the “Chevaliers” cuvée. There’s less dosage (4g instead of 9g) and the character is more serious. This wine shows spring flowers and lemon zest in the nose, with excellent tension and tons of length in the mouth.
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At the Domaine Michel Gros, 2020 brings another stellar lineup of beautiful red Burgundies…
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At the Domaine Michel Gros, 2020 brings another stellar lineup of beautiful red Burgundies, very much in the style of the superb 2019s. The 2020 growing season in the Côte de Nuits was much like 2019: hot, sunny, dry, and very early. New to the lineup this year is the domaine’s new Gevrey-Chambertin cuvée, an addition that completes the list of famous Côte de Nuits towns in the family portfolio. The vines are all from “la Platière,” a village level plot east of the RN-74, and the wine combines Gevrey’s typical burly, masculine terroir with Michel’s signature polish. We found it unusually floral for a Gevrey, and Burghound agreed, finding it “relatively elegant” for the appellation, with a nicely persistent, balanced and complex finale.
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