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 | Pascal’s newest cuvée, called “Reserve 2014,” is essentially the Brut Traditionnel cuvée, but left… More (+) Pascal’s newest cuvée, called “Reserve 2014,” is essentially the Brut Traditionnel cuvée, but left on the lees for an extra half-decade; the base cuvée comes from the 2014 vintage. Champagne, you’ll remember, undergoes two fermentations – a first in tanks (like any other wine), and then a second in bottle under bottlecap. After the second fermentation is complete, the winemaker may choose to disgorge (remove yeast and insert a cork) promptly, or hold for longer “on the lees.”
The extra time on the lees has transformed the wine into something extraordinary, far closer to his vintage champagne than the more humble Traditionnel. The wine shows an exquisite array of chalk, fruit, earth and toast. The mouth is subtle and long, with a delicious, vinous finish. Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
 | Several readers are already hooked on our newest Champagne producer, RH Coutier. Coutier has… More (+) Several readers are already hooked on our newest Champagne producer, RH Coutier. Coutier has been a favorite of Vinous founder Antonio Galloni “for years;” he calls their wines “gorgeous… showing the natural richness of Ambonnay.” The Coutier style is open and accessible – the non-vintage “Traditionnel” is expressive, captivating wine at an exceptional price – today we’re introducing their finest cuvée.
We opened Coutier’s 2015 vintage champagne at a private tasting last week and it blew everyone (including the author of this post) away. It’s 75/25 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay, and has spent 96 months on the lees, gaining astounding complexity and depth. At 3g of dosage, this is dry, sophisticated and simply extraordinary. Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
 | Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of… More (+) Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.
“Côte Rozier,” which borders La Landonne, adds a note of toasty oak to the mix. It is denser than Couzou, and a bit quieter aromatically for the moment. Its tannins are ripe and very fine-grained, and as its elements melt together over the coming few years it should be quite special. This is always the most refined of Bonnefond’s cuvées, and given a few years in the bottle approaches Burgundian levels of finesse. Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
 | Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of… More (+) Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.
“Les Rochins” is a sibling of Rozier. The same elements are in play, but its fruit is a bit darker than Rozier’s (the vineyard has a more southern exposure) and its oak seems more in the background to the rich fruit. The wine is denser than Rozier, and its texture is particularly nice in 2022. Look for notes of leather, cocoa, coffee and cloves in the nose. The mouth carries a remarkable balance of intense concentration and vibrant lift – a bit like the character of Burgundy’s best red 2022s. Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
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 | Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father… More (+) Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
The cuvée blended from four Nuits plots on the other side of town more resembles Vosne-Romanée, its neighbor to the north. Here the fruit includes more floral notes and a hint of Vosne spice. It may need a bit of time for the elements to integrate, but as always it will end up as a classic, elegant red Burgundy of much finesse. Less (-) Free US Shipping | |
 | Robin’s vintage cuvée is called Kimmerdigienne, a nod to the famous limestone in the… More (+) Robin’s vintage cuvée is called Kimmerdigienne, a nod to the famous limestone in the local soil. We bought their 2011 for three consecutive years, and it was a revelation to anyone who tried it. The 2012 has just arrived and is more than worthy successor, and from one of the top vintages in the last decade.
The nose is a stunner, with notes of almonds, apricots, praline, and chalk. The mouth is delicious and complex, with notes of seashell, lemon zest, kiwi, brioche and vanilla. The 2012 has 6g dosage (vs 8 with the 2011), and is richer and bolder than last year’s – the mouthfeel is concentrated and chewy, and we think will impress just about anyone. Less (-) Free US Shipping |
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