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The 2021 red Burgundies sport neither the concentration nor the ripeness of hot dry…
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The 2021 red Burgundies sport neither the concentration nor the ripeness of hot dry years like 2020 and 2022, but this means an opportunity for those without patience or a cellar. Now with a few years in the bottle, the vintage has begun to drink superbly. An excellent example is Pierre Gros’s 2021 Nuit-St-Georges “Les Chaliots,” a single vineyard pinot noir from the heart of the Nuits appellation. Gros’s style is finessed and elegant, all destemmed and with a long relaxing elevage – and it beautifully matches the shape of this featherweight vintage.
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The 2022 red Burgundies are quickly becoming one our favorite vintages. From the warmest…
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The 2022 red Burgundies are quickly becoming one our favorite vintages. From the warmest, driest year in recent memory, winemakers managed to coax vibrant and beautifully balanced, sporting low alcohol and classic Burgundian finesse. Philippe Cheron is an excellent winemaker farming 10 hectares around the Côte de Nuits -- limited oak, whole clusters where needed, sleek, modern, terroir-transparent, muscled Burgundies. The wine from the Clos du Couvent, the village-level Gevrey-Chambertin monopole from which the Domaine takes its name, is excellent in 2022. Jasper Morris MW found “clean raspberry-cherry fruit, medium bodied, rather stylish,” and Burghound praised its “pretty red and blue pinot fruit, soft spice, and prominent earth influence.”
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy – he has no…
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy – he has no family connection to wine or the region, and has only been making wine for six years. His wife Laure is of a storied Burgundian family (Hudelot-Noëllat), but they have short winemaking experience and almost zero reviews. And since a hidden gem is the perpetual pursuit of all importers, we squeezed an appointment in late in the afternoon of our final tasting day this spring -- we're certainly glad we did. Baillot’s 2022 Volnay is deep and floral with red fruits bursting from the glass alongside violets and cassis. It’s beautifully concentrated and perfectly defined, with a sleek, low-oak profile on the palate. Volnay is known for elegance, and this has it in spades, but there’s more concentration than we expected at the village level. This should age terrifically, but will be hard to keep your hands off in the coming year.  
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father…
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past. “Chaliots” is classic Nuits St. Georges, with plenty of density. Its dark pinot fruit joins with beef-broth umami notes in a wine that is robust and earthy. “A lovely NSG, elegant without shortchanging you on fruit.” – 91-93, Neal Martin, Vinous
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For years St-Aubin was a white Burgundy collector’s hidden gem. Today it’s no longer…
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For years St-Aubin was a white Burgundy collector’s hidden gem. Today it’s no longer hidden – many writers put in on par with Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault – but it’s still a gem. For decades our source here has been the Domaine Gérard Thomas, a traditional, family run white Burgundy source with a small collection of excellent terroirs. The Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru “La Garenne” is also especially attractive in this vintage. The balance is just right, with plenty of supporting material and excellent concentration, yet an attractive lift on the palate. A long, refined finish completes the picture. This wine is surprisingly open for a Puligny so close to its bottling
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick…
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick smile and friendly demeanor, he’s traveled the world gaining extensive viticultural experience, and has brought real energy and renewed focus to his family’s tiny 5-hectare gem of an estate in Morey-St-Denis. He’s officially organic as of this year, but has already started the process of biodynamic certification. He has abandoned herbicides, planted cover crops, and this year begins an agroforestry project in the name of vineyard biodiversity. A blend of eight parcels across the town, this is truly an appellation-wide cuvée, showing the detail and elegance of classic Morey-St-Denis. The nose is very floral, with dried roses and violets; the mouth is clean and well built, with fine tannins all perfectly coated in attractive young fruit. Burghound was a fan as well, citing “various dark berries and earth” in the nose and “fine volume and richness along with an appealing sense of energy” in the mouth.
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