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A century ago Chassagne-Montrachet was best known for its reds, and indeed the clay-…
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A century ago Chassagne-Montrachet was best known for its reds, and indeed the clay- and iron-rich soils are very well suited to Pinot Noir. Caroline Lestimé, winemaker at the Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, has made wine in Chassagne for 40 years, and is a master of its terroir. Her whites are extraordinary and legendary, but her reds are quietly brilliant as well. The Santenay 1er cru Tavannes is just over the Chassagne border, and produces dark, brooding, delicious reds that sport Caroline’s signature polish and class. Jasper Morris awarded 94 pts, finding “Lovely fresh purple, fine and classy ... good grip at the back, and fine length.”
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Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to…
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Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.The Nuits-Saint-Georges cuvée comes from parcels on the northern side of the village adjoining Vosne-Romanée. Hints of the famous Vosne spice show up in the nose, and the impression is of elegance more than meatiness.
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy, a new arrival with…
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy, a new arrival with little winemaking experience and no family history. He started just 10 years ago as a micro-negociant, purchasing grapes and making tiny batches from small plots. In the last decade he has acquired 10 hectares of vines around the Côte d’Or, farming organically and crafting beautiful, understated modern Burgundy. Vinous’s Neal Martin describes Baillot’s wines as “excellent,” “impressive,” and “lovely and energetic.”Baillot’s Volnay is made with 50% whole cluster fermentation, adding a beautiful textural backbone to the fruit. The nose is dark and spiced with gorgeous plum fruit. The mouth is extremely elegant and fine-grained, with great density and a finely channeled mineral finish – classic Volnay in fruit profile and texture. Neal Martin found “an attractive, finely delineated bouquet…quite floral,” and in the mouth “nicely structured and quite persistent.”
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La Briccolina is the product of the Grasso family who have grown grapes here…
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La Briccolina is the product of the Grasso family who have grown grapes here for a century, but only recently started bottling their own wine. They produce a single cuvée, all from the Serralunga d’Alba terroir on the eastern side of the Barolo appellation. The soils are compact marls and sandstone with very high iron content, resulting in firm, mineral-driven wines of real character. The 2020's nose is exquisite – cherries and spices explode from the glass with notes of licorice, plum, lavender, cedar and mocha. The mouth is refined and pretty rather than big and tannic – with just half an hour in carafe it opens beautifully into a middleweight, delightful wine with notes of black cherry, iron, saline and dried roses. Vinous's Antonio Galloni also loved the 2020, awarding 93 points and finding it “soft, fruity and charming, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next decade.”
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father…
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past. Gevrey-Chambertin “La Platiere” is the latest addition to the village-level lineup. It’s a small plot, about the size of the Morey St. Denis parcel, and shows the power and dark fruit typical of Gevrey. In the 2022 Burghound found a nose of “poached plum, wild currant and warm earth,” and praised its “fine volume” and its “rich, caressing and velvet-textured middleweight flavors.” This wine shows the richness and roundness typical of Gevrey.
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for…
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Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures. From the “big three” towns, both Bohrmann’s Meursault “Les Vireuils” and her Puligny-Montrachet “Les Grands Champs” are particularly delicious this year.  Les Vireuils is all richness and roundness – classic Meursault mouthfeel – with a deft  touch of oak and enough supporting acidity to carry the wine for a number of years. This is beautifully channeled Meursault – not as big and buttery as at some domaines, but with all the power wrapped in a sophisticated package.  
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of…
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift. Rochins is always the more serious of the two – Vinous’s reviewer writes “as dark as a moonless night” – and offers excellent aging potential. The nose is dark and floral with black cherry and cocoa; the mouth is long and very dense with perfect balance and beautifully coated tannins.
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of…
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift. Côte Rozier will also benefit from bottle aging, but was already soaring and magnificent from barrel this spring. The nose is beautiful, a blend of violets, olive, and raspberry; the mouth is seamless and long; the ¾ whole cluster fermentation gives the texture an exquisite clarity and definition. Vinous’s reviewer writes; “framed by bright acidity and delightful purity of fruit, the 2023 is shaping up to be a distinctively elegant Côte Rozier.”
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