Red Burgundy Verticals

Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.

Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.

So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.

 

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Jacqueline André’s grandfather decided in 1963 that chemicals…
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Jacqueline André’s grandfather decided in 1963 that chemicals were not good for his old vines, so he stopped using them then and there. The domaine has been certified organic since 1980 (the first in the appellation), and the vines Jaqueline’s grandfather left her have reached 140 years old. The 2017 red offers a beautifully expressive nose of plum/raspberry fruit, smoke, and pan drippings. It fills the mouth but is neither hot nor heavy; there’s plenty of support but the structure is beautifully knit together. This wine will be delicious in its early years when the fruit dominates, and it will be equally delicious as it evolves over the years to show notes of leather, licorice, and forest floor.
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They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in…
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They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in 1550, and nearly five centuries later they’re still farming many of the same soils. The most recent generation has upgraded the facilities and the focus, and their wines have begun to gain substantial critical interest. Fuées, along with Amoureuses, is the most celebrated of Chambolle’s premier crus. The 2019 vintage will need some time to develop, but all the elements of a great vintage are there: deep intensity, good supporting acidity, and supple tannins. Vinous’s Neal Martin predicted a score of 91-93. He praised its “fine length” and found a “refined bouquet that displays good terroir expression, touches of sous-bois and black truffle filtering through the red berry fruit.”
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The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in…
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The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in 1550; for centuries, like many Burgundy domaines, they sold their entire production each year to the negociants of Beaune. Today it’s brothers Romauld and Romaric making the wines as the 15th generation of Boursots. Vinous’s Neal Martin describes Boursot’s wines as “superb,” “excellent,” “very fine,” and “worth seeking out.” Their 2020 Fuées is a big wine in a big year, with lots of material and much intensity. It offers excellent balance between power and the finesse for which Chambolle is known; if you’re looking for a Chambolle to lay down, this is a great choice. Martin found it “velvety smooth with impressive depth.”
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021…
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021 vintage is a marker of unusual talent. His unmarked cuverie is hidden down a back street in Nuits-St-Georges, and Cheron himself is quiet and pensive. But his wines more than speak for themselves. Cheron's 2021 Fuesselottes is magnificent, with distinctly floral aromas of violets and briary blackberries. Burghound awarded 90-93 points, as well as his “outstanding” distinction, finding “a wafting, airy and elegant nose [that] displays perfumed notes of rose petal, herbal tea, spice and essence of red cherry.” He concluded: “This is classic Feusselottes.”
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Roger Belland's delicious organic whites are outstanding in…
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Roger Belland's delicious organic whites are outstanding in 2022, delivering wines packed with fruit, energy, and depth. Its contrast with Chassagne is as you might expect: a bit leaner and quieter in the early years, then hitting its stride with complexity and persistence building as it matures. It’s from up the slope, so the fruit has a bit more lemon and a bit more cut than the Chassagne.
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Boursot’s finest wine comes from 75+ year old…
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Boursot’s finest wine comes from 75+ year old vines in the famous “Les Fuées” premier cru vineyard that borders the Grand Cru Bonnes Mares. Boursot’s Chambolle 1er 2021 Fuées is large and impressive – even in a cooler vintage it needs several years to integrate and come into itself. But all of the elements are there for a truly delicious wine: tannin, fruit, concentration, acidity, length, and that signature Chambolle charm. If you’ve got room in the back of the cellar, this will handsomely reward patience.
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The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Clos des Varoilles”…
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The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Clos des Varoilles” is a powerhouse of a red Burgundy. Grown in a 6 hectare vineyard (enormous by Burgundy standards), the wine shows grand-cru level intensity. Our notes show dark cassis fruit in the nose, along with licorice and gingerbread spices. In the mouth is enormous and very long -- the tannins are bold and bursting, a sign that the wine will live for decades to come. Allen Meadows (Burghound) agreed with our assessment, awarding 91-93 points and finding a nose of “plum, anise, floral and earth aromas,” with “excellent size, weight and concentration” and “big-bodied and powerful flavors.”
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Transition to organics/biodynamics may be trendy in winemaking…
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Transition to organics/biodynamics may be trendy in winemaking today, but it’s nothing new at the Domaine Pierre André in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Jacqueline André’s grandfather stopped using chemicals in his vines in 1963, and the domaine has been certified organic since 1980 – the first in the appellation. As it turns out, he was on to something -- those vines are now 140 years old, and continue to produce every year. Today Jacqueline André and her son craft the fruit of these ancient “grand dammes” (as they call them) into a single magnificent wine. No luxury batch or cuvée speciale here -- just one red, outstanding year in and year out. One of each cuvée: 2020, 2021, 2022 Free East Coast Shipping
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Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated…
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Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His style is one of restraint and precision. We think of them as “minimalist” white wines — what’s not there (oak, butter, heaviness) is as important as what is there.  Morey’s Puligny vines are in Truffiere, a premier cru near the top of the slope near La Garenne. These wines typically need a year or more after bottling to show their real character, and the 2023 is likely to tread the same path. It’s chiseled and precise with delicate fruit and mid-acidity. From Morris: “A gorgeous bouquet, fully ripe but with energy, yellow and green fruit once could almost say, ripe limes and mirabelle. 13.3% natural which makes a great balance. This is all very primary but will make a gorgeous bottle, accessible quite early. Fine ripe citrus finish.”
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BURGHOUND (88-91):  This also displays enough wood to…
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BURGHOUND (88-91):  This also displays enough wood to notice but it’s a bit more completely integrated on the dark berry fruit liqueur-like nose that evidences plenty of earth and humus influence. The ripe and lightly mineral inflected medium weight flavors possess a velvety mouth feel as well as fine volume, all wrapped in a very solidly complex, balanced and lingering finish where a touch of wood resurfaces. A very good Nuits villages.
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Now 18 years on from harvest, this wine…
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Now 18 years on from harvest, this wine is old enough to vote (no word on its political preferences), but it’s remarkably youthful. We recently enjoyed one of the last magnums of our 2002 from Bardoux, which was mature and delicious but not the least bit tired. The 2004 vintage produced wines with a bit more structure, and these recently disgorged magnums have the capacity for plenty of additional cellaring. The blend is 20% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and 50% Chardonnay, with an 8g/L dosage. The nose is terrific, with woodsy, savory notes alongside the pear fruit. In the mouth is chalky and fine, with an astonishing level of vibrancy for its age. Look for notes of rhubarb, cooked apples and raspberry across a beautifully textured palate.
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Finally the Boursot family’s gem is their plot…
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Finally the Boursot family’s gem is their plot of 75+ year-old vines in “Les Fuées,” the Chambolle 1er cru abutting the iconic Bonne Mares Grand Cru. Planted by Romaric and Romault’s grandfather in the 1940s, the vines produce low yields of extremely intense, powerful wine. Add that to a famously rich terroir and a deep, concentrated vintage and you have the makings of seriously impressive wine. If the village wine will benefit from time, the Fuées will need it; but we expect a very bright future. The nose is inky and expansive, with rose petals, baking spices, dried flowers and cassis. The mouth is bold and muscled with remarkable length. “A very classy bottle – the finish is superb,” writes Bill Nanson.
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Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the…
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Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the winemakers at this gem of an estate in Meursault. They farm a mouthwatering collection of vines in and around Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, including all three famous Meursault premier crus. They farm organically, and use a long elevage in barrels then concrete eggs to give their wines a regal depth and complexity. These are some of our favorite white Burgundies from anywhere. Boyer’s Meursault 1er Charmes, usually the fattest and richest of the bunch, is excellent again this year. The nose is deeply floral with notes of pear and stones. The mouth is fresher and more vibrant than usual this year, with a touch of sucrocité balanced on a beam of tension. Burghound similarly found “excellent energy” and a “tension-filled, linear finish.” He counsels drinking after 2030, but given how well the 2022s are drinking already (“difficult to resist” says Vincent himself), this will be terrific even next year.
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BURGHOUND (89-91): The spicier aromas of dark currant…
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BURGHOUND (89-91): The spicier aromas of dark currant, newly turned earth and game nuances to shine. The medium weight flavors are not quite as dense but they’re more refined thanks to the finer-grain of the supporting tannins on the lightly mineral-inflected finale. Note that even though the tannins are finer they’re also denser and this too will need a few years first
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Michel Gros is as much a part of…
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Michel Gros is as much a part of Vosne-Romanée as the pointed steeple, the ancient vineyards, and the narrow crooked streets. He is a lifelong resident of the town, as were his father and grandfather before him — his mother was even mayor. The Gros family name has been synonymous with Vosne-Romanée for centuries. Their most famous vineyard is the premier cru monopole “Clos des Réas,” the only one in the appellation. It is a magnificent property, stretching over 2 hectares, and turning out wines described by critics as “supremely elegant,” “opulent” and “genius.”
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Meursault 1er cru “Perrieres,” the vineyard most named…
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Meursault 1er cru “Perrieres,” the vineyard most named as the next grand cru white, has huge intensity. Burghound awarded 92-94 points, praising its “first-rate freshness and verve,” its “laser-like focus,” and its “built to age finish.” His final thought: “This beauty is extremely promising, but patience absolutely required.” The only thing wrong with any of these is their quantity.
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic…
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past. Aux Brûlées is always a beautiful wine, a bit slower to mature than Réas, but like Réas is a classic exemplar of the village’s special character. The 2022 is a stunner – an explosive nose of wild cherries and violets, and a palate dripping with inky, perfectly extracted fruit. In this vintage, Neal Martin found “enticing scents of red-currant jam, white-tipped strawberries, and dried white flowers.” Burghound found “red and black pinot fruit, plum and exotic tea scents,” and praised its “utterly delicious and seductively textured medium weight flavors.”
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The Domaine’s flagship is its Vosne-Romanée 1er cru monopole…
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The Domaine’s flagship is its Vosne-Romanée 1er cru monopole “Clos des Reas,” a wine capable of giving much pleasure in its youth but which also ages gracefully. As Jasper Morris explained in his seminal book Inside Burgundy, “It makes a supremely elegant Vosne premier cru, relatively low in acid, but the softness is deceptive: the wine ages remarkably well.” The key to this magic may be the well-draining salmon colored marl that underlies it, but in the end the truth of the proposition is in the bottle. Both Ansonia père and Ansonia fils have fond memories of helping to harvest this parcel, and wine from many vintages inhabits the family cellars. Neal Martin called the 2022 vintage “one of the best examples that I gave tasted in recent years,” praising its “perfumed, floral bouquet” and a palate “lightly spiced with fine tannins.”
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Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the…
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Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the winemakers at this gem of an estate in Meursault. They farm a mouthwatering collection of vines in and around Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, including all three famous Meursault premier crus. They farm organically, and use a long elevage in barrels then concrete eggs to give their wines a regal depth and complexity. These are some of our favorite white Burgundies from anywhere. Genevrieres is often more spiced than the other two premier crus, and this year is no different. White pepper and white tea mix with stewed pears and baked lemons; the nose is so remarkable you might forget to drink it. But once you do, the mouth explodes with broad intensity of flavor and a chiseled finish. Burghound found “elegant, medium-bodied flavors,” with a “clean, very dry, and sneaky long finale.” This “beauty exudes the innate class of a fine Genevrières.”
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When you don't know what someone likes, it's…
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When you don't know what someone likes, it's best to play it safe. Here are three bottles – Champagne, white Burgundy, and Red Burgundy – that we're confident everyone will love. Robin Champagne Brut "Secret de Sorbée" NV Thomas St-Aubin 1er "Murgers des Dents de Chien" 2023 Desvignes Givry 1er "Grand Berge" 2023 FREE SHIPPING EAST OF CHICAGO
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Here are three terrific pinot noirs from exciting…
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Here are three terrific pinot noirs from exciting corners of Burgundy. Two are from Santenay in the Côte d'Or, crafted by multigenerational winemakers working their family's ancient vines. The third is from Givry (20 minutes south), from an exciting rising star in the Côte Chalonnaise. For the Pinot lover on your list, these are three delicious bottlings from two stellar vintages. Desvignes Givry "Champ la Dame" 2022 Belland Santenay 1er Beauregard 2022 Morey Santenay 1er "Grand Clos Roussot" 2023 FREE SHIPPING EAST OF CHICAGO
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This trio covers all three corners of Burgundies…
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This trio covers all three corners of Burgundies white wine terroirs: a biodynamic unoaked Maconnais white from near Pouilly-Fuissé, a classic unoaked Chablis from an old-school producer, and a magnificent old-vine Chassagne-Montrachet from the heart of the Côte d'Or. For the white Burgundy lover on your list, this trio is a tour de force. Vessigaud Macon-Fuissé "Les Taches" 2023 Gautheron Chablis Emeraude 2023 Morey Chassagne Montrachet 2023 FREE SHIPPING EAST OF CHICAGO
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When the weather turns cold we love to…
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When the weather turns cold we love to have rich reds available to pair with a crackling fireplace or a hearty Sunday roast. These three are perfect wintertime bottlings: classic old-vine Châteauneuf-du-Pape, rugged and delicious Syrah from St-Joseph in the Northern Rhône, and beautiful velvety 7-year-old Right Bank Bordeaux blend. A cozy trio for the chilly months. André Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021 Tunnel St-Joseph 22 Murmure du Larcis Ducasse St-Emilion Grand Cru 2018 FREE SHIPPING EAST OF CHICAGO
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Grower Champagne is one of the most exciting…
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Grower Champagne is one of the most exciting parts of the wine world these days, with tiny vignerons making hand-crafted cuvées that easily rival Burgundy and Bordeaux, and which blow away their mass-market big name neighbors. This trio of three small batch grower Champagnes will delight any wine lover. The Robin is a rich blanc de noirs from the Côtes des Bar, the Lancelot-Royer a refined blanc de blancs grand cru from the Côtes des Blancs, and the Coutier an exquisite, expressive blend from the world-famous town of Ambonnay.  Robin Champagne Brut "Secret de Sorbée" NV Coutier Champagne Tradition NV Lancelot-Royer Champagne Grand Cru Chevaliers Brut NV FREE SHIPPING EAST OF CHICAGO
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Biodynamic viticulture has become popular in recent years…
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Biodynamic viticulture has become popular in recent years for a very simple reason: it works. Happier, healthier vines and soils produce better wine, and this trio proves this with ease. André's Châteauneuf-du-Pape is an iconic wine and one of the original biodynamic sources in the Rhône Valley; their neighbor Clos du Joncuas makes an equally delicious and slightly more rugged blend from Gigondas. And Pierre Vessigaud's magnificent premier cru Pouilly-Fuissé easily rivals a Chassagne or Meursault. André Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2021 Vessigaud Pouilly-Fuissé 1er cru "Les Reisses" 2023 Joncuas Gigondas 2019 FREE SHIPPING EAST OF CHICAGO
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron draws from 75-year-old vines for…
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron draws from 75-year-old vines for his plot, which is just south of Michel Gros’s. The 2019 Clos de Vougeot from Couvent is tightly coiled and beautifully balanced. Vinous’s Neal Martin scored it 92-94, praising its “attractive nose of brambly red berry fruit, morels and tobacco, nicely focused and showing good intensity,” and calling it “a superb Clos Vougeot.” Inside Burgundy’s Jasper Morris awarded it 93-95: “This is surprisingly easy-going at the front end then a little touch of acidity and more structure behind, providing the typically robust Clos Vougeot experience.”
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Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the…
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Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the winemakers at this gem of an estate in Meursault. They farm a mouthwatering collection of vines in and around Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, including all three famous Meursault premier crus. They farm organically, and use a long elevage in barrels then concrete eggs to give their wines a regal depth and complexity. These are some of our favorite white Burgundies from anywhere. Known for its power and regal depth, Boyer’s is, in Burghound’s words, “textbook Perrières.” The nose shows yellow fruits, pear tart, a hint of reduction and buttered toast. The mouth is exceptional – rich and bold and muscled with a sleek texture and extremely long finish. Burghound found it “delicious” and succulent,” with a “cuts-like-a-knife finish” amid the lush fruit.
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Couvent's Clos de Vougeot 2020 is a worthy…
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Couvent's Clos de Vougeot 2020 is a worthy successor to the excellent 2019. The vines for this cuvée are part of Cheron’s family heritage – his grandfather bought them from Comte Ligier Belair in 1930, and with a smile he told us of enjoying bottles on Sundays with his father growing up. Allen Meadows (Burghound) awarded 92-95 points, finding a complex aromatic profile: “Ripe and fresh aromas of red and black cherry, plum and earth display a top note of kirsch.” He praised its “outstanding power,” and called it “definitely built to age.” Jasper Morris awarded the same score.
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Varoilles's finest wine is it's Charmes-Chambertin, and its…
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Varoilles's finest wine is it's Charmes-Chambertin, and its unmistakably a Grand Cru. Its surprisingly expressive nose offers a pleasant mix of fruit and wood. It is rich and smooth in the mouth, with oodles of material. The flavors linger on the palate impressively. This wine will require some time at the back of the cellar, but when it begins to show itself clearly it should be impressive indeed. More from Varoilles
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The Domaine Pierre Amiot is an old school…
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The Domaine Pierre Amiot is an old school Burgundy estate based in Morey-St-Denis. They’ve just welcomed the 6th generation into the business, and year after year turn out humbly delicious red Burgundies. Their 2019s are terrific, with gorgeous textures and excellent aging potential. The 2019 “Les Ruchots” is closer to the Grand Cru level than just geographical proximity (the Clos de Tart lies just across the road). Here the tannins are exceedingly fine grained and knit together, providing a firm base without a hint of roughness. The ripe fruit is almost sweet, making the wine sleek and racy. There’s a long and complex finale. Burghound awarded 90-93, finding it "outstanding," and "attractively sleek."
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The Domaine Pierre Amiot is an old school…
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The Domaine Pierre Amiot is an old school Burgundy estate based in Morey-St-Denis. They’ve just welcomed the 6th generation into the business, and year after year turn out humbly delicious red Burgundies. Their 2019s are terrific, with gorgeous textures and excellent aging potential. A magnificent wine that will both require and reward cellaring. We loved this wine in 2018, and weren’t surprised to see it win a prestigious Coup de Coeur from the Guide Hachette, who wrote of its “refined tannins,” “perfectly mastered woodsiness,” and notes of “rose, cassis, and tobacco.” If you have room in the back of your cellar, consider putting away some of this.
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Couvent's 2020 Charmes-Chambertin is extraordinary, with more spice…
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Couvent's 2020 Charmes-Chambertin is extraordinary, with more spice than the Vougeot and perhaps more depth. The intensity of the wine is striking – visually you might have guessed it was Syrah in the glass. But in the nose and mouth it’s unmistakable Burgundian class. Burghound awarded the 2020 vintage 91-94 points, praising its “size and weight” and its “delicious” flavors. Jasper Morris’s assessment was similar, awarding 93-96 points; and praising its “exuberant opulence on the palate” and its “succulent dark strawberry fruit.” He found it “long and stylish.”
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021…
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021 vintage is a marker of unusual talent. His unmarked cuverie is hidden down a back street in Nuits-St-Georges, and Cheron himself is quiet and pensive. But his wines more than speak for themselves. The Clos Vougeot 2021 is beautifully dense, with finely detailed tannins that Burghound found to produce “excellent volume.” He found that the wine’s “very earthy aromas include those of red pinot and dark currant along with a floral wisp.” Look for notes of gingerbread, toffee, game and earth; this is bold and impressive wine that is not for the faint of heart. Morris called it simply “a classic Clos Vougeot.”
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Thirtysomething Justine Clerget (Christian’s daughter) is now in…
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Thirtysomething Justine Clerget (Christian’s daughter) is now in charge of this tiny gem of a domaine in Vougeot. She's brought renewed energy, refined techniques, and a passion for organic viticulture. The Clerget wines were always classical, terroir-transparent, old school red Burgundy; Justine has maintained this spirit but added polish and class. Clerget’s vines in the "En Orveaux" section of Echezeaux were planted in 1947, and the resulting wine is every bit a Grand Cru, worthy of reverence and some patience. Particularly in 2022 this is big, powerful wine, with smooth inky fruit resting on broad shoulders. Jasper Morris (93-95 points) called it “a charming and graceful Echezeaux;” Neal Martin suggested a drinking window of 2028-2045, finding it “beautifully defined, with lifted brambly red fruit, sous bois, and incense.”
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Four bottles each of three crisp, dry, low-alcohol…
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Four bottles each of three crisp, dry, low-alcohol 2024 rosés for summer heat; from Chianti, the Loire, and the Rhône. Poggerino Rosato 2024 Malmont Séguret Rosé 2024 Sanzay Saumur Rosé 2024 FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING
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Winemaker Gilbert Hammel retired after the 2019 vintage…
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Winemaker Gilbert Hammel retired after the 2019 vintage and has been replaced by Philippe Cheron, a well-established winemaker in the Côte de Nuits whose family owned the Varoilles vineyards years ago. Cheron has combined his properties under a new name, the Domaine du Couvent. It is unquestionably a wine of Grand Cru density and intensity, if in a charming, elegant way rather than bold and muscular. Dark fruit and oak come through the nose along with an earthy minerality. Neal Martin praised its “lovely, very well defined bouquet of dark cherries, sous-bois and dark chocolate scents.”
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We're often asked what glassware we use at…
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We're often asked what glassware we use at home. For special occasions, we bring out the Grassl Cru or Grassl 1855 models. These are works of art – impossibly elegant, beautifully crafted stemware. At under 4 oz they weight less than your average corkscrew. They make you pause as you use them, which is kind of the point – they elevate their contents like little else we know. But our everyday glass is the Grassl Versatile. This is our weeknight glass, and we don't know what we'd do without it. This set of 6 hand-blown, lead-free crystal glasses is designed to enhance all wine types – we serve literally every wine in it. Lightweight and elegant, they offer perfect clarity, balance, and comfort in every sip.
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