Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | Ribaude makes a Rosé cider from pink-fleshed apples. It’s… (+) Ribaude makes a Rosé cider from pink-fleshed apples. It’s not organic like the other cuvées but we found it terrific. It’s particularly well balanced — more tart than the Organic Dry, with both more fruit and more acid. The nose shows notes of ripe tart apples, spices, and orange peel. The mouth is crisp and refreshing, with less funk and a bit more fruit. It’s still not sweet, but not as bone-dry as the Organic Dry. Serve with appetizers at a late-summer dinner party, or with homemade crèpes at your next brunch. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $15 | |
 | Made just like cider but with pears instead… (+) Made just like cider but with pears instead of apples, Poiré is less common but no less tasty. Ribaude’s is a blend of 20 varieties, and its alcohol barely breaks 3%. There’s a bit more softness in the perry, but we’d still call it only barely off-dry. The nose is exuberant and delightful, with notes of caramel, pear tart, and baking spice. The mouth is fruity but also crisp and vibrant with nice acidity and notes of honey, herbs and apples. Serve this one with a goat cheese salad for lunch on an autumn Sunday afternoon. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $15 | |
 | For more than fifteen years we thought of… (+) For more than fifteen years we thought of Poggerino as our secret, but the word is definitely out now. Vinous’s Antonio Galloni considers their wines “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy."
Poggerino's pure Sangiovese rosato has quickly become a favorite since it was introduced a few years ago. It's dry, crisp, and simply delicious, with a rose-petal nose and dried strawberries in the mouth. Serve it with a salty fish off the grill. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $15 | |
 | Our perennial favorite from Chauvin’s Domaine le Souverain… (+) Our perennial favorite from Chauvin’s Domaine le Souverain is his Séguret — 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 5% Mourvèdre. Raised in stainless steel, this wine is pure, delicious fruit: look for plums, lavender, minerals and dark berries. There’s excellent freshness and attractive tannins, making it an option for both cocktail hour and dinner. There’s lots of Rhône wine out there for under $20, but almost none of it is this good. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $19 | |
 | Martin-Luneau’s crus are attractively priced, but their “Deux Roches”… (+) Martin-Luneau’s crus are attractively priced, but their “Deux Roches” 2018 cuvée is even more so. “Deux Roches” is a reference to the two types of rock on which the grapes are grown: Gabbro and Granite. The vines are all from Clisson and Gorges, and so the wine would be eligible for “Cru” status by virtue of location; but the family has elected to make a refreshing blend for this cuvée, which is priced like a simpler wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $19 | |
 | The fruit here recalls ripe pears with a… (+) The fruit here recalls ripe pears with a touch of white peach, and it’s a very pleasant combination. But what makes the wine just right for sipping on the back porch or roof deck on a muggy July evening is its weight: light and refreshing rather than deep and unctuous. With an (almost unheard of) alcohol level of just 11.5% and a fresh, lively palate, it will be just the thing to sip at the end of a long hot summer’s day. And at the price it is wine to enjoy early and often all summer long. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $19 | |
| Grown near the mouth of the Loire River… (+) Grown near the mouth of the Loire River, Muscadet is at once brisk and hearty -- the essence of the windswept Atlantic coast. Wine writer Lettie Teague calls it “one of the world’s best, if most obscure, bargains,” saying “a glass of $8 Muscadet will always be a better wine than an $8 glass of something else.”
Martin-Luneau’s 2020 Deux Roches cuvée is bright and crisp, with lime rind and melon in the nose, and zippy, refreshing acidity in the mouth. There’s an intense dryness and liveliness that’s perfect for warming weather. Pair this with anything from the sea, most perfectly, oysters. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $19 | |
 | Domaine des Sanzay’s Cabernet Franc Rosé has quickly become… (+) Domaine des Sanzay’s Cabernet Franc Rosé has quickly become a crowd favorite among our readers – the lightweight character, charming label, and affordable price all combine to make it the perfect quaffing rosé for the summer months. This rosé always has gorgeous aromatics – red berries, flowers, lemon peel – and a nice roundness on the palate to accompany the chalky freshness. It makes an excellent match for sushi, a goat cheese salad, or just a muggy August afternoon. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $19 | |
 | Pouilly-Fumé is the less famous neighbor of Sancerre… (+) Pouilly-Fumé is the less famous neighbor of Sancerre, located just across the Loire River. The grapes here are Sauvignon blanc, and there’s a high percentage of flint in the soil, which gives the wines their eponymous “smoky” (Fumé) character. Our producer here is Frederic Michot, a brisk and energetic vigneron who makes wines that mirror his personality. They’re no-oak, no-nonsense, delicious and refreshing – and extremely well priced.
The Pouilly-Fumé 2023 is lively and delicious. The nose shows grapefruit, a hint of herbs, and a burst of stoniness. The mouth is savory and punchy with a quick, clean mouthfeel and notes of grape skin and lemon zest. Serve with fish, oysters, cheese and crackers, or nothing at all. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $19 | |
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 | Frey’s Pinot Blanc “Eclectic” is one of our… (+) Frey’s Pinot Blanc “Eclectic” is one of our favorite summer sippers. It’s expressive and floral in the nose, with ripe orchard fruit, white spices and occasional exotic notes. You’d almost expect it to be sweet from the bouquet, but the mouth is dry and vibrant, with a hint of grapeskin bitterness alongside the melon-apple fruit.
There’s enough body to make it attractive all by itself, as an aperitif alongside a salty snack; but it’s also light enough to be an attractive partner to a dinner salad at the end of a muggy summer afternoon, whether on a roof deck, patio, or at an outdoor picnic.
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 | Winemaker Nicolas Haeni is a master of engineering… (+) Winemaker Nicolas Haeni is a master of engineering balanced wines in his scorching hot climate, and his rosé is a perfect example. An 80/20 blend of Grenache and Syrah, it’s rounder and smoother than Sanzay’s or Poggerino’s but at 13% alcohol remains lively and fresh. Look for rose petals and wild strawberries in the nose, with a clean, refreshing minerality in the mouth. Given the extra texture this is a perfect rosé for summer meals – goat cheese salad, grilled chicken, or a cold summer soup. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Michot’s Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes 2023 has just arrived… (+) Michot’s Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes 2023 has just arrived and it’s refreshing, unoaked, mouthfilling and utterly delicious. His old vine cuvée combines a ripe, sunny vintage with bursting tension underneath the gorgeous fruit. There’s lots of inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc around -- most of it isn’t half this good.
The nose shows mango, grapefruit rind, and straw; the mouth shows ripe grapefruit, lime rind, and honey. The wine is at once mouthfilling and electric, with the persistence of richness and freshness found in finest Sancerre, but with a serious discount.
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 | Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape… (+) Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape varietal with common Côtes du Rhônes, but little else. Chauvin’s tiny Domaine le Souverain has no website, no road sign, and barely a phone number -- his cellar is a converted garage. But his wines have more complexity and depth than nearly anything else we taste at their level, and manage to remain a bargain.
The 2023 Séguret vintage is delicious, winning Gold at the local Concours d’Orange in 2024, and one of the best vintages of this wine we’ve had. The nose suggests ripe plums, and the mouth is rich and full, with just enough ripe tannin to notice. The finish is very smooth. Souverain’s 2023 Seguret is one of those wines where the first glass calls for a second. If you’re looking for something to match the pizza you are making for tonight’s dinner, you can’t go wrong with this. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Paget’s 2023 Melodie is quietly beautiful, with an… (+) Paget’s 2023 Melodie is quietly beautiful, with an almost Chablisien array of grapeskin and minerals – clean, pure and delightful. The nose is floral and dry, with faint pear notes and a hint of apple. Even in a warm year Paget has managed to craft a refreshing cuvée — at a steely 12% alcohol it’s beautifully balanced, and a refreshing break from the palate-coating wines that dominate the market these days. Serve with fresh goat cheese on crusty bread and rejoice in simplicity. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
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 | Didier and Celine Sanzay are fifth generation growers… (+) Didier and Celine Sanzay are fifth generation growers in Saumur-Champigny producing fresh, pure Cabernet Franc in the modern Loire style -- small batch, organic, wild yeasts, no fining or filtering. Their 2023s in particular are “Loire classique” Didier told us last week – a return to the refreshing, low-alcohol.
Their 2023 Saumur-Champigny is exactly what you want Loire Cab Franc to be: pure, joyful, unoaked, and fresh. Clean, juicy fruit bursts from the glass on the nose — think wild cherries and graphite. The mouth is fresh, fruit forward, inky, and intense, with a bold and vibrant attack and a quick clean finish. Picture a juicy Beaujolais with more serious texture and darker fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Alsace is a gorgeous winegrowing region – bucolic… (+) Alsace is a gorgeous winegrowing region – bucolic hillsides of vines surround fairytale villages on a sunny, east-facing ridge. Its wines can be similarly charming: expressive and delicate with beautiful fruit and vibrant textures. Our source here, the Domaine Charles Frey, is a family of committed biodynamic vingerons, producing wines of freshness and balance.
Frey’s Riesling “Granite” 2023 is a bone-dry version of the wine. It is brisk and stony, with just hints of petrol over a core of lean yellow fruit. Pair it with anything that particularly matches unoaked wine, from sushi or sashimi to oysters on the half shell to fresh goat cheese. It’s lightweight, crisp, and full of life. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Poggerino is often cited as a reference point… (+) Poggerino is often cited as a reference point for Chianti Classico. Vinous writes of their Poggerino’s “remarkable purity and nuance,” and Rajat Parr calls their wines “excellent” and “some of the purest expressions of the grape in Italy.” A few years ago they introduced a rosato, and as you'd expect it's simply delicious.
A pure sangiovese rosé with excellent definition. It offers lively freshness, attractive fruit and at 12.5% alcohol just the right weight. The nose is drier than the Sanzay, with stony freshness and dried rose petal notes. Serve with a caprese salad or grilled vegetables dressed in good olive oil. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
| Domaine des Sanzay is a 5th-generation family winery… (+) Domaine des Sanzay is a 5th-generation family winery in the Central Loire Valley. They produce classic, organic, low intervention wines with exceptional pricing. Their rosé has become a favorite in our store, and is terrific year in and year out.
Domaine Sanzay’s 2024 Saumur Rosé is pure Cabernet Franc from the central Loire Valley. This popular cuvée is as good as ever, with a fresh strawberry nose and crisp, dry mouthfeel. At 12.3% alcohol this is a perfect wine for hot summer afternoons, whether pool, patio or picnic. Serve with nothing at all, or with goat cheese on crackers. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape… (+) Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape varietal with common Côtes du Rhônes, but little else. Chauvin’s tiny Domaine le Souverain has no website, no road sign, and barely a phone number -- his cellar is a converted garage. But his wines have more complexity and depth than nearly anything else we taste at their level, and manage to remain a bargain.
Like the Seguret, this wine is entirely vat-raised. It is made from 55% Grenache and 30% Syrah, with the balance from Mourvedre. The Sablet 22 offers the same rich and round mouthfeel, but the Mourvedre adds a dark cherry tone to the fruit. Eric said that the Mourvedre “helps to hold the fruit,” and indeed the added complexity made the wine even more attractive. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Lafont Menaut is the project of Philibert Perrin… (+) Lafont Menaut is the project of Philibert Perrin, whose family also owns neighboring Chateau Carbonnieux (one of three visited by Thomas Jefferson in 1786). He employs the same care and expertise at both properties. The Cabernet adds dark, briary notes of blackberry and currant, with the Merlot adding notes of plum jam.
Lafont Menaut is a classic, dark-palate Bordeaux, showing figs and currants alongside notes of cedar smoke and earth. It benefits greatly from 30 minutes or so in a glass or decanter. The texture is long, dark, and rich, with ripe, juicy tannins that are present but pleasant. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $24 | |
 | Syrah grown in most of the world is… (+) Syrah grown in most of the world is bold, rich, smooth and voluminous. In the Northern Rhône the grape takes on a different style: lower alcohol, less mouthfilling, more spice, more energy. Recent scorching summers have blurred this style a bit, but 2020 was a welcome return to normal. Decanter writes of “A reliably fresh, balanced and approachable vintage – a return to classicism.”
Christophe was right about his 2020 Syrah – it’s lighter weight than recent years, but arguably even finer. The nose is spice forward, with black pepper, nutmeg and rosemary – the black fruit is there but taking a back seat to the savory elements. The mouth is gorgeous and refined, with refreshing tension and lovely intensity – it’s perfectly extracted, leaving not an ounce of harshness.
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| This is 90% grenache and 10% syrah, and… (+) This is 90% grenache and 10% syrah, and as with all of Nicolas Hanei’s wines, impeccably balanced. Rosé from the Rhône Valley is always among our favorites, where savory notes of the rugged southern grapes blend beautifully with fruit and aromatics. The 2024 is smooth and fresh (13% alcohol), and has a gorgeous nose of wild cherries and melon. The mouth is clean and crisp with a faint note of grapeskin and a burst of stony freshness. Serve with chicken or summer vegetables on the grill. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $24 | |
 | Pommeau is a blend of ⅔ unfermented apple… (+) Pommeau is a blend of ⅔ unfermented apple juice and ⅓ calvados, which is then aged in oak barrels for 2-3 years; (think Port, but with apples). The resulting drink is like a cordial, about 18% alcohol, and usually served chilled in small glasses to begin or end a meal. We love Pommeau, and are excited to have it around the house again soon — we keep a bottle chilled in the fridge and serve it with or as dessert. We even add it to crémant from time to time as a Norman take on the kir.
The Ribaude Pommeau is smoother than many we’ve found; the nose shows notes of baked apple, apricots, honey and dried flowers. The mouth is sweet, smooth and warm, with notes of almonds, tarte tatin, toffee, and wild cherries. Serve with blue cheese, foie gras, or camembert — but most perfectly, with an apple dessert. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | After a near electrocution more than a decade… (+) After a near electrocution more than a decade ago, winemaker Denis Basset decided to pursue his personal passion and began making wine from the family’s long-established vineyards.
The 2020 Crozes-Hermitage “Fleur Enchantée” is all of 13% alcohol – refreshingly fresh despite its abundant dark fruit. The nose shows clove and blackberry, with black pepper and hints of earth – the oak is barely perceptible. The mouth is young and juicy with dark tannins and plenty of zip. The blackberry/plum fruit joins a fresh minerality and long dusty finish.
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 | Christophe Bonnefond’s Syrah is one of the only… (+) Christophe Bonnefond’s Syrah is one of the only wines in our portfolio with a “Vin de Pays” appellation, the broadest category in France. It’s always carried Bonnefond’s signature elegance and tension, most famously found in their terrific and well known Côte Rôties, but with less complexity and aging potential. It’s exactly the type of wine you’d expect to shine in a vintage like 2022…
…and you’d be right. The 2022 Syrah is downright delicious – bursting with cool blueberry and raspberry fruit, the tannins are juicy and delicious. At only 13.5% alcohol it’s not a bit flat or heavy – a gorgeous vibrant texture underlies the dark fruit and savory spice, making it as hard to put down as a bag of potato chips. Serve with takeout pizza on a weeknight.
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| Winemaker Denis Basset of the Domaine Saint Clair… (+) Winemaker Denis Basset of the Domaine Saint Clair in Crozes Hermitage walks the line between tradition and modernity with skill and grace. His punchy, delicious wines are always beautifully crafted, minimally oaked, and bursting with dark fruit, terrific freshness, and friendly prietags.
The 2021 Crozes-Hermitage “Fleur Enchantée” is all of 13% alcohol – laser focused, perfectly balanced Syrah. The nose shows clove and blackberry, with black pepper and hints of earth – the oak is barely perceptible. The mouth is young and juicy with dark tannins and plenty of zip. The blackberry/plum fruit joins a fresh minerality and long dusty finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Some wine writers will tell you that we’re… (+) Some wine writers will tell you that we’re living in the golden age of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Twenty years ago winemakers would struggle to ripen their grapes; twenty years from now, if warmer summers and earlier harvests continue, the wines may become unrecognizable. Rejoice, they say, in this window of perfect weather. The size of the window and speed at which it closes remain to be seen, but, as far as the present goes, we wholeheartedly agree.
Sanzay's old vine cuvée from 2021 is excellent -- it’s also nicely ripened Cabernet Franc dominated by its maraschino-cherry fruit, but there’s a bit more body and a bit more length. It spends some time in older oak barrels, which deliver some integration with little oak influence on the flavors. Sanzay’s Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes 2021 is another versatile wine that will pair up well with all sorts of dishes, and this one will be nice for quaffing as an aperitif as well. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | While the wine is concentrated and unctuous, its… (+) While the wine is concentrated and unctuous, its lively acidity provides excellent support for it, keeping it lighter on the palate. The 2017 has a particularly nice balance, with no hint of heaviness — we were amazed at how delicately it danced across our palates, with lively texture seldom found in Sauternes.
The Guide Hachette noticed this too, awarding a star and calling it “frank and fresh on the palate.” The flavors and aromas are classic: exotic fruit, dried apricot, touch of orange rind, and the unique spice of botrytis-affected wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines… (+) Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines are Demeter certified, the highest organic classification. In the bottle this translates to superb purity and clarity, with careful elevage and excellent balance. As William Kelley puts it, “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
Vessigaud's Macon-Solutré-Pouilly is a terrific new wine from a regional-level Maconnais appellation. It's pure, unoaked chardonnay from 35 year old vines and raised entirely in stainless steel. The resulting wine delivers and explosive bouquet of white flowers, pear and stones. The mouth is crisp, lush and delightful with terrific tension. We think this offers tremendous value. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Salomon Undhof’s Riesling “Terrassen” is simply beautiful this… (+) Salomon Undhof’s Riesling “Terrassen” is simply beautiful this year. The nose is bright and clean with notes of white stone fruits, lime zest, and a hint of slate. The mouth is pretty and concentrated with dried apple fruits and a lemon-saline finish. There’s an electric, vibrant quality to the wine that makes it refreshing and awfully hard to put down. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Located in Vouvray in the central Loire Valley… (+) Located in Vouvray in the central Loire Valley, Fontainerie is a small 6-hectare estate producing delicious wines of pure Chenin Blanc. The winemaker is Catherine Dhoye-Deruet – she’s run the place since the 90s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s.
This cuvée is just what we want from Vouvray – pure, classic, refreshing Chenin blanc, raised in steel (no oak) and fermented fully dry. The nose is floral and fresh, with notes of apple blossom, ripe pear, saffron and chalk. The mouth is clean and crisp, with smooth fruit and a clean finish. Simple, delightful summertime Chenin blanc. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Frederic Berne is a warm, friendly young winemaker… (+) Frederic Berne is a warm, friendly young winemaker in the town of Lantignié. His longterm goal is to add his home town as the 11th Cru Beaujolais, but whatever the outcome, along the way he continues to make terrific, classical Gamay.
Berne’s Beaujolais-Lantignié “Pierre Bleue” 2023 is crisp, juicy, carefree and delicious – a Beaujolais for a backyard barbecue or a tailgate. Grown on the appellation’s blue granite soil, it’s lively and floral with low tannins and an easy, refreshing finish. Serve this instead of Beaujolais Nouveau -- for a few bucks more its 10x the wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | We stumbled upon this source last spring during… (+) We stumbled upon this source last spring during our visit to the area, far off the beaten path at the northern end of the Haut-Médoc. Their humble Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend is simply delicious, and has earned Cru Bourgeois status. We tasted several vintages, but the intense, jam-packed 2020 caught our eye.
It’s rich and smooth with deep violet, wild cherries, and plums; there’s gentle tannin to keep it in line, well integrated oak, and a clean savory finish. A delicious workhorse Bordeaux that’s unimpressed with itself. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
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 | The 2022 vintage was kind not only to… (+) The 2022 vintage was kind not only to Burgundy: growing conditions were also exemplary in the Northern Rhône. When we tasted the Etincelle 2022 from the barrel, Denis remarked that he thought 2022 his best vintage ever of the wine. (“Etincelle” means “spark” in French, and the name for the cuvée is in homage to his near-electrocution.) “Etincelle” 2022 is outstanding. With 13% alcohol it retains its freshness, amid an abundance of lush, dark, ripe fruit. It’s perfectly balanced, with good weight, a pleasant mouthfeel, and a longer than usual finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Basset’s white is a Roussanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), and… (+) Basset’s white is a Roussanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), and the only wine of its kind in our portfolio: rounder and more tropical than white Burgundy; more tension than Condrieu; more softness than our Loire whites.
The 2023 has just arrived and it’s outstanding – the nose is soft and enveloping, with tropical notes of mango, pineapple, and green tea. The mouth is rich and round, but well balanced, showing nectarine and honey notes. There’s so much exotic fruit in the nose you almost expect this to be sweet, but the mouth finishes cool and soft and dry with terrific tension.
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 | We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now… (+) We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now, but we were pleased to see the Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert William Kelley visit last year. After tasting Kelley wrote that “Picamelot produces some of the best sparkling wines in Burgundy,” calling them “elegant,” “excellent,” and “superb.”
This nose is clean and elegant, with notes of almond, pineapple, and cream. The mouth is very dry, quite lively, and crisply refreshing, with apple fruit and a long vinous finish. At under $30 this continues to be a steal; pair this with a warm Friday afternoon. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
| “Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis… (+) “Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis Basset family’s horticultural roots. It comes from 50 year-old Syrah vines, which give exceptional depth and intensity. It’s noticeably more concentrated and intense than Étincelle, shows a bit more new oak, and offers more complexity — a bit of black olive and smokiness along with the fruit. It can be cellared for up to eight or ten years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 |