Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | Picamelot is among Burgundy’s finest crémant houses. The… (+) Picamelot is among Burgundy’s finest crémant houses. The Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert William Kelley writes that “Picamelot produces some of the best sparkling wines in Burgundy,” and calls their wines “elegant,” “excellent,” and “superb.”
Picamelot’s dry rosé is 100% Pinot Noir, and made using the traditional method from Champagne: fermentation in tank, bottling, dosing with sugar and yeast, second fermentation, then disgorging. A lovely nose that balances fruit and floral notes, with strawberry, herbs and lemon. The mouth is perfectly dry, with great freshness alongside a gentle creamy mousse of bubbles. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $24 | |
 | Sanzay's wines are pure Cabernet Franc, and fit… (+) Sanzay's wines are pure Cabernet Franc, and fit modern Loire style — small batch, organic, limited oak, concerned with balance and freshness rather than extraction and muscle. They use all wild yeasts, neither fine nor filter, and produce complex, natural expressions of the charming central Loire. The old-vine cuvée comes from vines aged 50-110 years, and spends a year in oak barrels (none new).
The nose is delicate and pretty, with violets, plums, and red currants. The mouth is dense and very refined, with added notes of plum, allspice and black pepper. This is expertly made Cabernet Franc, with enough intensity to carry it for at least another five years. Serve today after an hour in a decanter -- it’s a vibrant, affordable break from your Rhône red fallbacks. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $28.$24Current price is: $24. | |
 | Vincent Boyer makes the best Aligoté we have ever seen… (+) Vincent Boyer makes the best Aligoté we have ever seen. This humble grape, Burgundy’s “other white,” often struggles to ripen and has an acid spine that’s difficult to tame. Most Burgundians solve this by using it in Kir, a delicious apéritif in which Crème de Cassis is added to soften it up.
Vincent Boyer transforms Aligoté by barrel fermentation into a delicious wine that is round and smooth, though relatively inexpensive. His 2018 Aligoté is lovely — floral and golden with nice sucrosité and well-balanced freshness. It requires no Cassis (though it’s a delicious pair too) (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $24 | |
 | Lafont Menaut is the project of Philibert Perrin… (+) Lafont Menaut is the project of Philibert Perrin, whose family also owns neighboring Chateau Carbonnieux (one of three visited by Thomas Jefferson in 1786). He employs the same care and expertise at both properties. The Cabernet adds dark, briary notes of blackberry and currant, with the Merlot adding notes of plum jam.
Lafont Menaut is a classic, dark-palate Bordeaux, showing figs and currants alongside notes of cedar smoke and earth. It benefits greatly from 30 minutes or so in a glass or decanter. The texture is long, dark, and rich, with ripe, juicy tannins that are present but pleasant. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $24 | |
 | Syrah grown in most of the world is… (+) Syrah grown in most of the world is bold, rich, smooth and voluminous. In the Northern Rhône the grape takes on a different style: lower alcohol, less mouthfilling, more spice, more energy. Recent scorching summers have blurred this style a bit, but 2020 was a welcome return to normal. Decanter writes of “A reliably fresh, balanced and approachable vintage – a return to classicism.”
Christophe was right about his 2020 Syrah – it’s lighter weight than recent years, but arguably even finer. The nose is spice forward, with black pepper, nutmeg and rosemary – the black fruit is there but taking a back seat to the savory elements. The mouth is gorgeous and refined, with refreshing tension and lovely intensity – it’s perfectly extracted, leaving not an ounce of harshness.
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 | It’s pure Sauvignon raised in used oak barrels… (+) It’s pure Sauvignon raised in used oak barrels, which add a very subtle hint of muted spice and help round out the mouth. But it’s the lively fruit that drives this wine. Grapefruit is still the dominant note here, blended with notes of anise, grapeskin, honey, straw, and pear.
This is a perfect summertime glass of white. It's lovely on its own, but food is a welcome companion for this wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $24 | |
 | Vincent Boyer is an innovative winemaker making extraordinary… (+) Vincent Boyer is an innovative winemaker making extraordinary wines in Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, but his entry-level cuvées are among the best values in our cellar. His 2020 Aligoté in particular is a triumph; showing a beautiful nose of cortland apples, buttered toast and chalk. With its mild acidity and easy, fresh, lightweight mouthfeel, it’s worlds away from the aligoté of yesteryear.
William Kelley found it “seamless…satiny and racy, with a fleshy core of fruit.” Burghound gave it his “Outstanding” rating (a rarity for a wine of its humble level), writing of the wine’s “delicious and vibrant middle-weight flavors” with “very good density and a refreshing salinity.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $24 | |
 | We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now… (+) We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now, but we were pleased to see the Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert William Kelley visit last year. After tasting Kelley wrote that “Picamelot produces some of the best sparkling wines in Burgundy,” calling them “elegant,” “excellent,” and “superb.”
This nose is clean and elegant, with notes of almond, pineapple, and cream. The mouth is very dry, quite lively, and crisply refreshing, with apple fruit and a long vinous finish. At $22 this continues to be a steal; pair this with a warm Friday afternoon. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled… (+) Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled grapes, the low price of this wine is remarkable. Voigny’s nose and mouth are full of the classic honeysuckle, apricots and peaches, but it’s the acidity that keeps this wine lively. Many sweet wines lack acidity and fall flat – Voigny is bursting with freshness to balance out its sweetness.
There may be no more perfect food-wine pairing than Sauternes with seared foie gras. If your stomach (or conscience) is too sensitive, serve blue cheese as a salty foil instead. Or serve a small glass in place of dessert at the end of the meal. A favorite wine of Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, this iconic wine will round out any cellar with style. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | The 2015 Etincelle is a triumph -- astonishingly… (+) The 2015 Etincelle is a triumph -- astonishingly intense and concentrated, but at 13.5% alcohol a balanced and refreshing glass as well. The color is an inky black-purple, with a savory nose showing cloves, blackberries and violets. The youthful raspy tannins have given way to a gorgeous polish -- it remains dense and smooth with classic notes of plum and black pepper. It’s a drink-now gem from a magnificent year. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | This is old school winemaking: ambient yeasts, no… (+) This is old school winemaking: ambient yeasts, no oak (not even foudres), 100% whole cluster, no fining or filtering. It sounds like a recipe for a big rustic wine, but the Chastan sisters somehow managed to produce wines of superb texture and subtlety.
Made from Grenache and a splash of Mourvèdre, this wine resembles a cool inky Syrah, even though it’s absent from the blend. A floral nose gives way to ripe raspberries, lavender, sweet plums and earth. This is rich wine whose first impression is nonetheless freshness. There is good underlying structure, but the wine utterly without harsh or drying tannins. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
| Despite the modest appellation “Collines Rhodaniennes,” the Bonnefonds’ Syrah… (+) Despite the modest appellation “Collines Rhodaniennes,” the Bonnefonds’ Syrah 2019 provides a way to sample their excellent winemaking at a modest price. Josh Raynolds found “blueberry, dark chocolate and a hint of black pepper” in the wine, and praised its “good depth and a touch of olive on the long, subtly tannic finish.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Poggerino’s wines are all pure sangiovese — dark… (+) Poggerino’s wines are all pure sangiovese — dark, delicately balanced expressions of an intense, powerful grape. We’ve worked with Poggerino for almost 15 years, but recently their star has risen dramatically. In his recent book Rajat Parr calls their wines “some of the purest expressions of [Sangiovese] in Italy.”
Poggerino’s 2018 Chianti Classico bursts with intensity and energy. It’s at once expansive and well defined -- it shows strawberry jam, anise, and a pleasant dustiness on the nose. The ripe fruit carries seamlessly across the palate, which is pleasantly mouth filling -- but neither hot nor flabby -- and the tannins are fine-grained and attractive. Look for notes of cherries and dried roses.
More from Poggerino (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Located along the banks of the Loire River… (+) Located along the banks of the Loire River in central France, Sancerre produces wines from pure Sauvignon Blanc. The wine typically combines ripe, juicy grapefruit notes with a lively minerality, often notes of flint, and pleasant herbal finish.
Garenne’s Sancerre fits this ideal perfectly -- it’s bone dry with pure sauvignon grapefruit in the nose. In the mouth it’s lively but with no astringency or grassiness -- a warm vintage gave added weight but no less freshness. Its terroir is a mix of Sancerre’s three soil types (limestone, clay/limestone, and flint), and the wine shows an appealing ripeness alongside the stones. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | The Sancerre rouge 2019 has very attractive fruit with lovely… (+) The Sancerre rouge 2019 has very attractive fruit with lovely aromas of wild strawberries. In the mouth it’s on the light side, dominated by the pinot fruit. For this wine, the words “fun” and “refreshing” will come to mind rather than “profound.” Served cool on a hot day in the middle of the summer, this could be just the right choice to pair with chicken on the grill. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Tribouley's ability to wrestle freshness and lift from… (+) Tribouley's ability to wrestle freshness and lift from such a warm climate is remarkable — his wines burst with fruit and tension, a mark of careful viticulture and low yields (12-15 hl/ha). He ferments with ambient yeasts, and neither fines nor filters.
Elepolypossum is pure carignan grown on gneiss. There’s more funk here, notes of garrigue, animale, pepper and a bit of leather, but accompanied by gorgeous dark fruit — black cherry, cassis, and plum. This is much darker in complexion than Copines, but just as refreshing and smooth. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Like their neighbor Jacqueline André in Chateauneuf du… (+) Like their neighbor Jacqueline André in Chateauneuf du Pape, sisters Dany and Carol Chastan have run their family domaine for decades according to organic and biodynamic principles. The wines are all beautifully made, with minimal manipulation and no pretense. They practice old school winemaking — 100% whole clusters, ambient yeasts, no fining or filtering.
The Séguret, from the 2017 vintage, is mostly Grenache, with some Carignan and just a touch of Cinsault. It has a lovely plum nose with floral notes of violets. In the mouth it is intense and round, with plenty of supporting freshness. It’s juicy and fruit-forward, with a bit more rugged structure than the rest of the lineup. We find it drinks well immediately and should carry nicely into the fall and winter. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Pommeau is a blend of ⅔ unfermented apple… (+) Pommeau is a blend of ⅔ unfermented apple juice and ⅓ calvados, which is then aged in oak barrels for 2-3 years; (think Port, but with apples). The resulting drink is like a cordial, about 18% alcohol, and usually served chilled in small glasses to begin or end a meal. We love Pommeau, and are excited to have it around the house again soon — we keep a bottle chilled in the fridge and serve it with or as dessert. We even add it to crémant from time to time as a Norman take on the kir.
The Ribaude Pommeau is smoother than many we’ve found; the nose shows notes of baked apple, apricots, honey and dried flowers. The mouth is sweet, smooth and warm, with notes of almonds, tarte tatin, toffee, and wild cherries. Serve with blue cheese, foie gras, or camembert — but most perfectly, with an apple dessert. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
| Jean-Louis Tribouley practices organic farming, biodynamics, and low… (+) Jean-Louis Tribouley practices organic farming, biodynamics, and low intervention. His property is high in the hills of the Roussillon, a remote winemaking area near France’s border with Spain. The vines grow on schist and gneiss/granite, and range from 40 to 70 years old.
“Elepolypossum” 2020 is all Carignan. The fruit is darker than in Copines and there’s a bit more body, but the wine is neither heavy nor highly extracted. Instead it offers a pleasant lift, and as the French often put it, “one glass calls for the next.” There’s plenty going on in the glass: some notes of garrigue, pepper and leather blended with lovely dark fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Jean-Louis Tribouley practices organic farming, biodynamics, and low… (+) Jean-Louis Tribouley practices organic farming, biodynamics, and low intervention. His property is high in the hills of the Roussillon, a remote winemaking area near France’s border with Spain. The vines grow on schist and gneiss/granite, and range from 40 to 70 years old.
His 2020 “Alba” cuvée is mostly carignan with dollops of Grenache and Syrah. This wine offers a more familiar profile, less funky than the other two cuvées, Elepolypossum and Copines. There are notes of olives, garrigue, black tea and lavender in the nose, which offer a savory complement to the black raspberry fruit in the mouth. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | The 2019 “Wachtberg” cuvée comes from south facing vines, and… (+) The 2019 “Wachtberg” cuvée comes from south facing vines, and spends some time in barrels (none new) during elevage. This has more richness but still excellent acidity, and no hint of wood. The nose shows clear apple fruit with notes of chalk and stones, the mouth is round and smooth, with vibrant minerality cutting through the rich fruit. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found it “Thoroughly lip-smacking. Manages to combine the natural weight of the variety with lightness of touch.” Serve this with sushi and don’t be afraid to throw some spice at it. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | It doesn’t take an expert to notice that… (+) It doesn’t take an expert to notice that Guillaume Goujon and Sebastien Dupré are farming organically. Their vines, located in the Côte de Brouilly, share the earth with an impressive array of herbs, flowers, grasses, and wildlife. In the cellar Dupré and Goujon have a similarly light touch – their cuvées are made with whole clusters, ambient yeasts, limited oak and almost no sulfites.
La Démarrante 2021 (“the starter”) is just that – an excellent entrée to the Dupré-Goujon lineup. Goujon described it as something you’d find in a “bar à vin,” a refreshing, juicy, Beaujolais embodying the region’s jubilant, joie de vivre spirit. The nose shows cherry fruits, sweet spices, and peony; the mouth is crisp and lively with nice concentration and a fine mineral finish. This is a Beaujolais in the most fun sense of the word. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | After a near electrocution more than a decade… (+) After a near electrocution more than a decade ago, winemaker Denis Basset decided to pursue his personal passion and began making wine from the family’s long-established vineyards.
The 2020 Crozes-Hermitage “Fleur Enchantée” is all of 13% alcohol – refreshingly fresh despite its abundant dark fruit. The nose shows clove and blackberry, with black pepper and hints of earth – the oak is barely perceptible. The mouth is young and juicy with dark tannins and plenty of zip. The blackberry/plum fruit joins a fresh minerality and long dusty finish.
(-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | After a near electrocution more than a decade… (+) After a near electrocution more than a decade ago, winemaker Denis Basset decided to pursue his personal passion and began making wine from the family’s long-established vineyards.
“Un Matin” is a blend of 40% Roussanne and 60% Marsanne, barred-fermented and raised in oak for 8 months before bottling. It is such a fixture among local restaurants that we had to wait three years for our first allocation of the wine. A bit like a cross between Condrieu and a white Chateauneuf, it makes a wonderful apéritif with its expressive nose and unctuous but vibrant mouthfeel. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | The Jura is famous for its oxidized white… (+) The Jura is famous for its oxidized white wines made from Savagnin, but this cuvée is a bit different. The grape is Savagnin, but the style is called “ouillé” meaning “topped-up.” Instead of allowing the wine to evaporate and the yeast to form over the top of the liquid as in the oxidative Vin Jaune, winemakers continually refill the barrel to prevent oxidation.
The result is a pure Savagnin wine made like most other wines, and the results are delicious. The nose is bright and a bit earthy, with notes of herbs and yellow apples. The mouth has none of the nutty oxidation present in Vin Jaune, but shows a delightful array of spices and fruits – pear, white pepper, chalk, grapeskin. The textures is at once waxy and vibrant with lovely richness and great tension. This is unusual and excellent. Pair with sushi. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | The Clos Bagatelle is in St. Chinian, where… (+) The Clos Bagatelle is in St. Chinian, where good elevation and a range of soils — distinct areas of limestone, sandstone, and schist — have allowed the Deleuze family to make wines of character for many years. In fact, wine has been made at the property since 1643.
Our choice from a long list of wines is Clos Bagatelle’s St. Chinian “Fil de Soi” 2019. The wine is a blend of Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. It is raised in a combination of large wood foudres and smaller barrels, which yields a wine that is always fleshy and rich. The 2019 vintage opens with a nose of dark fruit and spice. In the mouth there are ripe plums mingled with a pleasant earthiness. The wine is full and round, with good persistence on the palate and a pleasant finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare… (+) Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s. Her Vouvray Sec 2020 is a delight. The nose is lush and beautiful with exotic fruits alongside notes of chalk, apple, quince and pear. The mouth is rich, smooth and delicious with a bursting apple attack and a crunchy, stony dry finish. Serve with crumbly goat cheese, or garlic-ginger shrimp from the grill. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Sebastien took us to visit his Vers Chanes… (+) Sebastien took us to visit his Vers Chanes vines this spring – he explained that when the original Pouilly-Fuissé lines were drawn last century, the Vers Chanes plot had been forest. The since-cleared land, he believes, would rank today as Pouilly-Fuissé if the lines were redrawn. Lucky for us – today it remains a Macon-Fuissé, an overperforming terroir with a less famous name.
The wine itself is exquisite – unoaked Chardonnay with precise, linear focus. The nose calls to mind the golden lushness of Pouilly-Fuissé, but without the oak to obscure the gorgeous fruit. The mouth is lithe and precise, with chiseled minerality beneath the apple blossom and apricot notes. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Basset’s white is a Roussanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), in… (+) Basset’s white is a Roussanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), in the style of a classic northern Rhône
white. The nose is soft and enveloping, with tropical notes of mango, pineapple, and green tea. The mouth is rich and round, but well balanced, showing nectarine and honey notes. There’s so much exotic fruit in the nose you almost expect this to be sweet, but the mouth finishes cool and soft and dry with terrific tension.
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 | Christophe Bonnefond’s Syrah is one of the only… (+) Christophe Bonnefond’s Syrah is one of the only wines in our portfolio with a “Vin de Pays” appellation, the broadest category in France. It’s always carried Bonnefond’s signature elegance and tension, most famously found in their terrific and well known Côte Rôties, but with less complexity and aging potential. It’s exactly the type of wine you’d expect to shine in a vintage like 2022…
…and you’d be right. The 2022 Syrah is downright delicious – bursting with cool blueberry and raspberry fruit, the tannins are juicy and delicious. At only 13.5% alcohol it’s not a bit flat or heavy – a gorgeous vibrant texture underlies the dark fruit and savory spice, making it as hard to put down as a bag of potato chips. Serve with takeout pizza on a weeknight.
(-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
| “The 2021 Chianti Classico is exceptional.” Thus begins… (+) “The 2021 Chianti Classico is exceptional.” Thus begins Antonio Galloni’s review of Poggerino’s flagship wine, and having just tasted a sample, we wholeheartedly agree. We found the same gorgeous floral, dusty nose as always, with perhaps a deeper plum fruit profile than usual. The mouth carries an extra dose of richness and length.
Galloni awarded 93 points, finding “lavender, spice, menthol, licorice, and tobacco,” and calling it “racy and layered.” Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found it “fantastic,” calling it “long, intense and concentrated, with bags of polished tannins that never dominate the fruit.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
| Winemaker Denis Basset of the Domaine Saint Clair… (+) Winemaker Denis Basset of the Domaine Saint Clair in Crozes Hermitage walks the line between tradition and modernity with skill and grace. His punchy, delicious wines are always beautifully crafted, minimally oaked, and bursting with dark fruit, terrific freshness, and friendly prietags.
The 2021 Crozes-Hermitage “Fleur Enchantée” is all of 13% alcohol – laser focused, perfectly balanced Syrah. The nose shows clove and blackberry, with black pepper and hints of earth – the oak is barely perceptible. The mouth is young and juicy with dark tannins and plenty of zip. The blackberry/plum fruit joins a fresh minerality and long dusty finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
| Some wine writers will tell you that we’re… (+) Some wine writers will tell you that we’re living in the golden age of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Twenty years ago winemakers would struggle to ripen their grapes; twenty years from now, if warmer summers and earlier harvests continue, the wines may become unrecognizable. Rejoice, they say, in this window of perfect weather. The size of the window and speed at which it closes remain to be seen, but, as far as the present goes, we wholeheartedly agree.
Sanzay's old vine cuvée from 2021 is excellent -- it’s also nicely ripened Cabernet Franc dominated by its maraschino-cherry fruit, but there’s a bit more body and a bit more length. It spends some time in older oak barrels, which deliver some integration with little oak influence on the flavors. Sanzay’s Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes 2021 is another versatile wine that will pair up well with all sorts of dishes, and this one will be nice for quaffing as an aperitif as well. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | While the wine is concentrated and unctuous, its… (+) While the wine is concentrated and unctuous, its lively acidity provides excellent support for it, keeping it lighter on the palate. The 2017 has a particularly nice balance, with no hint of heaviness — we were amazed at how delicately it danced across our palates, with lively texture seldom found in Sauternes.
The Guide Hachette noticed this too, awarding a star and calling it “frank and fresh on the palate.” The flavors and aromas are classic: exotic fruit, dried apricot, touch of orange rind, and the unique spice of botrytis-affected wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
| “Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis… (+) “Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis Basset family’s horticultural roots. It comes from 50 year-old Syrah vines, which give exceptional depth and intensity. It’s noticeably more concentrated and intense than Étincelle, shows a bit more new oak, and offers more complexity — a bit of black olive and smokiness along with the fruit. It can be cellared for up to eight or ten years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
| Basset’s white is a Rousanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), in… (+) Basset’s white is a Rousanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), in the style of a classic northern Rhône. The nose is soft and enveloping, with tropical notes of mango, pineapple, and green tea. The mouth is rich and round, but well balanced, showing nectarine and honey notes. There’s so much exotic fruit in the nose you almost expect this to be sweet, but the mouth finishes cool and soft and dry. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | Located at the northern end of the sprawling… (+) Located at the northern end of the sprawling Languedoc, winemakers Pierre Jéquier and Blandine Chauchat craft blends of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan that perfectly reflect their untamed, rugged landscape. Year in and year out, they manage to find balance and finesse in their warm region.
The Orphée 2018 is an excellent entree to the lineup, a 50/50 Grenache-Syrah blend. The nose is dark and woodsy, combining wild berries, lavender, and sous-bois. The mouth shows black fruits and black licorice, with a juicy texture and serious finish. The 2018 is slightly bolder and more substantial than usual (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | Garenne makes less than 200 cases of this… (+) Garenne makes less than 200 cases of this wine per year, and the current release 2018 is lovely. The nose shows cinnamon, cloves, rose petals, and intense cherry liqueur. The oak comes across as spice and smoothness. The mouth is punchy and silky with well built tannins that have weathered their time in barrel beautifully.
We taste a lot of wine, particularly Pinot Noir -- but even we can be surprised from time to time. This is a surprisingly attractive non-Burgundy Pinot Noir with nice depth and a summer weight. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | Nicolas excitedly told us he had changed the… (+) Nicolas excitedly told us he had changed the formula for Indr et Loire in 2018 — “style vin Jurassien,” he called it in his email. If we had any doubt what he meant, one whiff from the sample he sent cleared it up. This year’s Indr et Loire is Paget’s homage to the Jura — Chenin Blanc raised “sous voile,” under a “veil” of yeast. This style is most famously employed to make sherry in Jerez and Vin Jaune in the Jura.
We found Paget’s sous-voile wine fascinating and delicious. The nose has the classic oxidized, nutty character of a wine made with flor, but with subtle Chenin fruit. The wine is dry, but shows considerably more fruit and texture than the ultra-dry waxy Jura whites made from Savagnin. The mouth is long and full of tension — we found pears, white flowers, almonds, honey and hazelnuts. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | The 2019 Macon-Verzé is simply delicious, bursting with… (+) The 2019 Macon-Verzé is simply delicious, bursting with pure, vibrant unoaked Chardonnay fruit. Its 50-year-old vines produce a concentrated wine that explodes from the glass with notes of pear, tangerine, wild honey, herbs and chalk. There’s excellent freshness following a smooth, intense, fruit-filled attack.
William Kelley found it “bright and precise” with a “gently honeyed finish,” awarding 90 points and concluding “it’s a terrific value.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | Perched on a steep hillside east of the… (+) Perched on a steep hillside east of the town, Malmont’s vines benefit from high (cooler) elevation and plentiful airflow, enabling the grapes to reach maturity without becoming baked or dried out.
The 2019 Rouge is closer to an even syrah/grenache split, and offers a more serious and impressive profile. Haeni raises this one in foudre (large oak barrel), which contributes to the spice and depth of the wine. Here wild cherries and earth join the violets, and the mouth is both deeper and finer grained. This cuvée ages beautifully. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
| The Chastan family has been making wine in… (+) The Chastan family has been making wine in the same style for two generations. They were among the earliest in the region to farm organically (they were certified in 1980!), and their winemaking is simple and straightforward. Vinification for all the wines is cement vats, followed by an elevage in either vats or neutral oak foudres. The wines are neither fined nor filtered.
The Vacqueyras is particularly attractive in the 2019 vintage. Its dark fruit comes from a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre, vinified mostly from whole clusters. The wine is rich and round, with dense, fine-grained tannins and excellent balance. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk… (+) Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk freshness, clean minerality, excellent clarity of terroir. Jasper Morris MW is also a fan, writing in early 2023, “I must say that Cyril Gautheron’s wines are climbing up my table of Chablis producers.”
Raised entirely in stainless steel, this is Chardonnay at its purest and most stripped down. It’s bursting with classic citrus and minerals, with excellent tension across a surprisingly long mouthfeel. “Nicely focused,” writes Neal Martin in Vinous, “well-proportioned with a fine ‘bite’ of acidity…well crafted Petit Chablis.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare… (+) Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s.
Made from grapes in a single sunny, south-facing vineyard, the Vouvray Sec “Coteau les Brûlés” (meaning “burnt hill”) is thicker and fuller than Fontainerie's classic Vouvray cuvée, but most interestingly, it's the 2014. The nose is stony and crisp, with notes of dried apples, apricot and herbs. The mouth is clean and dry, with a surprising freshness, a dose of salt air, and notes of dried flower petals. Serve with a salty goat cheese. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | The Champenois often mix Pinot Noir juice (skinless… (+) The Champenois often mix Pinot Noir juice (skinless thus colorless) into their cuvées of Champagne, and today’s example from Burgundy borrows this idea. Made from a select plot of 100% Pinot Noir grown in the hills above the Côte d’Or, the Maison Picamelot’s “Terroir de Chazot” is an complex and unusual example of terroir-based sparkling wine.
Most crémant in Burgundy and Alsace is a blend of several varietals from different locations. For this wine, Picamelot decided to isolate a single grape from a single plot and bottle it unblended – the result is a finer, more intense and earthy sparkling wine, with notes of roasted apples and herbs. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
| Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled… (+) Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled grapes, the low price of this wine is remarkable. Voigny’s nose and mouth are full of the classic honeysuckle, apricots and peaches, but it’s the acidity that keeps this wine lively. Many sweet wines lack acidity and fall flat – Voigny is bursting with freshness to balance out its sweetness.
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There may be no more perfect food-wine pairing than Sauternes with seared foie gras. If your stomach (or conscience) is too sensitive, serve blue cheese as a salty foil instead. Or serve a small glass in place of dessert at the end of the meal. A favorite wine of Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, this iconic wine will round out any cellar with style. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | Neal Martin of Vinous calls the Desvignes wines… (+) Neal Martin of Vinous calls the Desvignes wines “excellent,” and “really quite superb.” The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley praises them as “succulent,” “elegant,” and “a decided success.” Kelley named winemaker Gautier Desvignes one of the region’s “Five Emerging Talents to Watch.”
The 2018 shows a dark, brooding nose with a nice mixture of red Givry fruit with dark plum and cinnamon. The mouth is ripe and pleasant, with classic punchy tannins underlying perfectly ripe fruit and a gorgeous texture. Given 20 minutes in the glass this opens into a wine that well outperforms its price. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | In some vintages Prunier’s reds occupy the lightweight… (+) In some vintages Prunier’s reds occupy the lightweight end of the spectrum, requiring some time and a careful food pairing. But in 2018 all they need is a corkscrew and a glass. The Bourgogne rouge 2018 is juicy, punchy, and delicious. From a warm, very ripe year, the Pruniers have crafted a wine bursting with fruit and spunk -- the nose shows beautiful ripe cherries, with notes of licorice and roses. The mouth is fine and chalky, with a croquant (crackling) mouthfeel and elegantly filled in tannins. This isn’t long or subtle or ageworthy -- it’s weeknight red Burgundy full of character and pluck. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | In just over a decade, winemaker Romain Collet… (+) In just over a decade, winemaker Romain Collet has turned his family’s reliable if unremarkable domaine into one of the very best sources in Chablis. The wine press has taken notice too; William Kelley finds “a lot to admire here,” and Jasper Morris recently opined that Romain Collet “is moving towards joining the pantheon in Chablis.”
Jasper Morris called the 2019 Chablis VV “a highly impressive old vine Chablis.” Drawn from soils with very little clay, this is classic, old-school Chablis, full of dry extract and brilliant freshness. Look for dry citrus notes in the nose with oysters shells, salt spray, and melon. The mouth is long, stony and dry, with chiseled texture and not a shred of oak. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 |