Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | The Loire Valley continues to be one of… (+) The Loire Valley continues to be one of the most exciting corners of winemaking in France, where organic viticulture, balanced wines, and affordable prices are the rule rather than the exception. Our source for these reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, a fifth generation organic domaine in Saumur-Champigny in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.The Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes spends a year in big barrels and the current release is the 2023. It’s darker and more serious than the regular cuvée, with the old vines bringing concentration and depth of flavor. The nose is dried roses and wild cherries; the mouth is dark and rugged with earthy notes and a delicious saline finish. The old-vine cuvée lasts far longer on the palate, with more supporting tannin. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of… (+) Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven Sangiovese. Under Piero Lanza, the domaine has built a decades-long reputation for meticulous vineyard work and restrained, traditional winemaking, producing wines that emphasize clarity, balance, and site expression. Antonio Galloni has called them “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy.”The backbone of Poggerino’s production has always been the Chianti Classico — the “Annata” or “vintage” wine that is released two years after the harvest. The Annata is always lithe and elegant, pairing well with a broad range of dishes. This year’s Annata is the 2023 vintage. As usual, Galloni is full of praise, finding that “dark red cherry, leather, lavender, spice and dried herbs all meld together in an open-knit, mid-weight wine that has so much to offer.” He went on to call it “pliant and inviting” and “an absolute delight.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge… (+) The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it.
The French most often use these crèmes for a kir or kir royale — a glass of aligoté or sparkling wine with a splash of crème. It’s a refreshing, delightful cocktail that’s distinct, elegant, and festive. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real… (+) Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real aging potential and sophistication. Our choice in the 2018 vintage is Saumur-Champigny “Les Dares,” from 55 year-old vines and raised in small oak barrels for 15 months. In this wine a pleasant dose of oak joins the fruit. It’s very attractive in the mouth: round in the opening but with plenty of supporting structure and very nice length. Fine grained tannins support the notes of cranberry, cassis and silky minerality. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare… (+) Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s.
With 30 grams of residual sugar and excellent minerality, this Demi-Sec is lightly sweet – picture the sweetness in a bowl of ripe berries rather than a slice of cake. The nose is tropical and wonderful, showing quince, pear, and cooked apples. The mouth is smooth, elegant and quite long, with a beautiful velvety texture and almost a hint of tannin. This cuvée probably isn’t sweet enough for dessert – we’d serve it with a spicy Asian dish, sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi, or fish tacos alongside salsa with some authority. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | If you like your Loire reds more serious… (+) If you like your Loire reds more serious and ageworthy, here’s an exciting find. The nose shows smoke and anise, which have both started to integrate beautifully into the fruit; and we expect the trend to continue. The 50+ year old vines contribute impressive richness, which the Sanzay Family have handled masterfully -- despite all of the inky, old-vine material, the shape of the wine remains fine and precise (even angular).
This is Cabernet Franc at its most Burgundian -- intense, earthy fruit that somehow retains its lift and sophistication. We expect this to improve for another 3-4 years, and wouldn’t be surprised it it was still impressive in a decade. Lightweight, carefree Cabernet Franc is useful and delicious, but here’s ample proof the grape can perform on a higher level.
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| Our favorite source for these delicious reds is… (+) Our favorite source for these delicious reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, an organic fixture of Saumur-Champginy in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, with their simple Saumur red and old-vine cuvée opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.
This year it was Sanzay’s parcellaire cuvée “Les Dares” that grabbed our attention. Drawn from a single plot of 65+ year old cabernet franc, this is an impressive wine. The nose is very fine and detailed, with a distinct note of honeysuckle over the red apple fruits and violet petals. The mouth is fine grained and concentrated with perfectly balanced tannin and a clean, dry finish. Decant for a half hour and serve with stews or duck or steak. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de… (+) Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de la Garenne, owned by members of a leading wine-producing family in the town. The Godon-Reverdys produce superb Sancerre at a variety of price points, and their wines are among the most popular in our portfolio.
Bouffants is a limestone laden terroir, and from it the wine draws its deep mineral intensity. The vines in Bouffants have an average age of 40 years, and so it’s a more serious wine than the regular cuvée, with stony fruit that lingers long on the palate. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | About 20 minutes up the road from the… (+) About 20 minutes up the road from the Domaine Dupré-Goujon, Frederic Berne is another young Beaujolais producer who brings energy and innovation to his winemaking. Like Dupré and Goujon, he is committed to organic and biodynamic viticulture, careful stewardship of his vines and of the biodiversity of his terroir. In style, Berne’s wines are more like classic Beaujolais: dominated by their fruit and offering immediate pleasure.
Régnié is lighter and slightly more rugged, with that crunchy, bonvivant character you often find in the Beaujolais. It’s got more intensity than the Lantigné, but it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The nose is deep red and bursting with cherries and a hint of lavender. The mouth is fresh and concentrated, and just calls for a burger. Neal Martin found “fleshy, fluid tannins and a keen line of acidity,” concluding, “this is a delightful Régnié.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | About 20 minutes up the road from the… (+) About 20 minutes up the road from the Domaine Dupré-Goujon, Frederic Berne is another young Beaujolais producer who brings energy and innovation to his winemaking. Like Dupré and Goujon, he is committed to organic and biodynamic viticulture, careful stewardship of his vines and of the biodiversity of his terroir. In style, Berne’s wines are more like classic Beaujolais: dominated by their fruit and offering immediate pleasure.
Our other suggestion from Berne is a more serious wine, his Morgon “Corcellette” 2023. The fruit is darker here, and the wine has a good deal more body. There’s more going in the nose, with a floral touch joining the fruit, and the wine persists well on the palate. Suckling’s reviewer writes “Ripe and powerful but also elegant, this has excellent mineral freshness and a graceful personality that’s hard not to like.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | We love Boursot’s style, which combines Chambolle’s graceful… (+) We love Boursot’s style, which combines Chambolle’s graceful essence with a sturdy, characterful core. Their wines get better every year, and no longer fly under the radar of the critics. Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) calls them “delicious, consistently excellent;” Steen Öhman (Winehog) finds them “forward, quite vivid…truly exciting.”
This cuvée doesn’t take itself too seriously. Sure, it’s from vines in Chambolle-Musigny, a town responsible for some of the world’s finest bottles, but Boursot’s is humble, vibrant, and flat out delicious. The wine sees 25% old oak barrels (none new) and shows the faintest touch of earthy wood below the lovely fruit. That subtle Boursot rusticity that draws so many of our customers to this producer is here, but all wrapped up in a friendly, easygoing package. Another winner, and another bargain. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
| The Loire Valley continues to be one of… (+) The Loire Valley continues to be one of the most exciting corners of winemaking in France, where organic viticulture, balanced wines, and affordable prices are the rule rather than the exception. Our source for these reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, a fifth generation organic domaine in Saumur-Champigny in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.Sanzay’s “Beauregard” parcellaire cuvée sees 18 months of elevage and draws concentration from its sand-limestone soils. The nose is beautiful, deep and spiced, with notes of peony and graphite over wild cherry fruit. The mouth is fine grained and concentrated with perfectly balanced tannin and a clean, dry finish. Decant for a half hour and serve with stews or duck or steak. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | This is 80% grenache (some from centenarian vines)… (+) This is 80% grenache (some from centenarian vines), with the rest Mourvèdre and Cinsault. The fruit is clean and very pure, with a gorgeous silky texture and notes of violets, raspberry, garrigue, and spice. Think of it as Grenache that wants to be Syrah.
Tasted blind you’d swear you were in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It beautifully integrates gorgeous grenache fruit with an earthy, mineral line and a judicious dose of Provençal spice. There’s plenty of material here, but it comes wrapped in a fine-grained structure that will make it drinkable from day one. Look for violets, plums, strawberries, and earth — the mouth is rich but impeccably balanced. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $34 | |
 | Many whites from the Southern Rhône Valley fall… (+) Many whites from the Southern Rhône Valley fall into traps of flatness and softness—victims of the scorching summer sun. Nicolas Haeni’s Malmont vineyard is perched high on a hill in a spot that receives consistent cool breezes and chilly nights. These natural advantages make it possible for him to craft whites with freshness and modest alcohol, which also happen to be flat-out delicious. His 2024 pure Roussanne blanc is delightful and clean, fermented in tank and aged in 3–4-year-old oak barrels. The nose is almost Burgundian, but with exotic notes of lychee, pear, and white pepper. A triumph of restraint and subtlety in a region whose whites seldom possess either. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $34 | |
 | The Champenois often mix Pinot Noir juice (skinless… (+) The Champenois often mix Pinot Noir juice (skinless thus colorless) into their cuvées of Champagne, and today’s example from Burgundy borrows this idea. Made from a select plot of 100% Pinot Noir grown in the hills above the Côte d’Or, the Maison Picamelot’s “Terroir de Chazot” is an complex and unusual example of terroir-based sparkling wine.
Most crémant in Burgundy and Alsace is a blend of several varietals from different locations. For this wine, Picamelot decided to isolate a single grape from a single plot and bottle it unblended – the result is a finer, more intense and earthy sparkling wine, with notes of roasted apples and herbs. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Auslese is a late harvest wine made only… (+) Auslese is a late harvest wine made only in years with excellent quality grapes. Dahm's 2005 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese is sweet but beautifully balanced. With 68 grams per liter of residual sugar, it’s far less sweet than Sauternes (80-120 g/L) or Eiswein (160-220 g/L). We think this makes an excellent choice to serve with dessert, rather than in place of it. Look for notes of flowers, apple tart, dried oranges, and a hint of petrol. The mouth is mid-sweet with nice minerality, soft acid, and a clean finish that’s not cloying or heavy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles… (+) Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles Frey is a terrific biodynamic source in Dambach-la-Ville in the heart of the Alsace.
If you like fruit for dessert, consider offering it to your guests in liquid form. We have always been fans of sweet wine, and late harvest Alsatian wines offer a particularly nice choice in the category. The 2018 Gewurztraminer “Vendanges Tardive” offers its distinctive spicy fruit in an unctuous form, rich and sweet but with plenty of supporting acidity. A glass of this and a few bites of a shortbread cookie will be all you need for a satisfying finish to a fine meal. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
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When we visited last spring, Negrier told us… (+) '
When we visited last spring, Negrier told us that 2022 was unequivocally the best vintage in the domaine’s 30 year history. He attributes this partly to the very dry growing season, which also featured damaging hail early, at the cost of 40% of the crop. The result: tiny grapes and highly concentrated must.
Indeed, the Fleuron de Liot 2022 – a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon – is utterly delicious and should age very well. Right now this well-balanced wine is inky and dark, showing black cherry and cassis fruit. There is excellent density: the fine tannins coat the mouth and persist on the palate.
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 | Dennis Basset is a talented organic winemaker crafting… (+) Dennis Basset is a talented organic winemaker crafting beautifully balanced pure-Syrah wines that require far less cellaring to reach maturity than the famous appellations of the Northern Rhône. Basset’s wines improve for years, but they’re delicious just about from the moment the arrive.
Denis farms just over a hectare of old vines in St-Joseph, which produce rich, intense, very elegant syrah. The nose is deep and dark with notes of cloves, violets, and intense black pepper; the mouth is full and inky but with excellent tension and notes of roasted meat and licorice. At 13.5% alcohol this is classic Northern Rhône Syrah – dark and brooding but with tremendous lift and elegance. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | For decades our source here has been the… (+) For decades our source here has been the Domaine Gérard Thomas, a traditional, family run white Burgundy source with a small collection of excellent terroirs. Their St-Aubins are wonderful, and extremely well-priced, but the best value is the humble Bourgogne blanc. And in 2023, a vintage with terrific ripeness and beautiful acidity, Thomas’s wines shine.
Thomas’s 2023 Bourgogne Côte d’Or is fresh and delightful – the nose shows meyer lemon and stones, and the mouth is a balance between ripe fruit and mouthwatering freshness. A muted note of wood joins the fruit, and the weight is perfect, with length that tastes more like a village-level wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Grown high in the hills above Séguret in… (+) Grown high in the hills above Séguret in the Southern Rhône, the Malmont vines struggle though rock-laden nutrient-poor soils, slowing their maturation. The west-facing hillside at 1200 feet of elevation enjoys plentiful breezes throughout the growing season, keeping the grapes cool and healthy. The resulting wines are almost an anomaly in the modern Rhône Valley: organic, delicious southern red blends that barely hit 13.5% alcohol. They show the dark, dense rich fruit for which the region is known, but always with vibrant tension and lift.
Nicolas Haeni's Séguret 2022 is the best he’s made. The extreme heat and drought delivered loads of ripe, intense fruit; Nicolas extracted them minimally and perfectly, and the resulting wine impeccably balances lush fruit with a subtle, sculpted backbone. The nose shows same wild strawberries with hints of gingerbread and pain d’épices too. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
Chablis “Cuvée Emeraude” 2023 is purely in the classic style: entirely vat-raised, steely, and bursting with energy — the sort of wine that inspired the classic pairing of Chablis with oysters. Its fruit is pure, clean lemon and lime. The Kimmeridgian limestone soils in which the 30-40 year old vines grow deliver a mineral line to complement the fruit and add a finish of mouth watering salinity. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
Gautheron’s Chablis “Vieilles Vignes” 2023 offers smoother edges. It comes from old vines, and it’s raised two-thirds in stainless steel and one-third in barrels. This wine is made to be slightly richer and rounder than their Emeraude cuvée, with a discreet hint of oak that rounds out the minerality without obscuring it. It succeeds beautifully, delivering an elegant wine that also has good supporting acidity. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Sébastien Dupré and Guillaume Goujon’s superb cuvées of… (+) Sébastien Dupré and Guillaume Goujon’s superb cuvées of Beaujolais from the 2022 vintage are like no other Beaujolais you have tasted, unless you were lucky enough to taste the same wines from 2020. They offer a beautiful combination of density, complexity and persistence that more resembles the reds of the Côte d’Or more than any other wines made from Gamay. The growing season 2022 was exceptionally hot and dry, but their vines did not suffer excessive heat stress, and they were able to bring in grapes with full phenolic ripeness but potential alcohol in the range of only 12.5% to 13%.
Cuvée 6-3-1 is a blend of their three plots, readily drinkable but deceptively sophisticated. We loved its expressive nose of dark, ripe fruit – violets and cassis, with a croquant (crackling) texture. Kenna Wells, the Wine Advocate’s reviewer, found “a packed palate with notes of stewed cherries complemented by spice, white pepper, and charred wood.” James Suckling praised its “striking elegance” and “fine tannins,” and we agree with the critics that the wine is far more than a summer sipper. It will grace your table all year round. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Beaujolais blanc is offered by some but not… (+) Beaujolais blanc is offered by some but not all winemakers in the region. Dupré-Goujon bought some Chardonnay vines in 2019, and in the last few years has made a beaujolais blanc that is strikingly good. Raised half in tank and half in wood, the Clos des Muriers 2023 has beautiful balance: just a touch of oak, good freshness and an attractive weight. Suckling’s reviewer effuses: “Not only is this the first great chardonnay from Beaujolais we’ve encountered, but it is also an incredibly joyful expression of the grape, brimming with stone-fruit, lemon-curd and white-flower aromas. The super-elegant, medium-bodied palate has breathtaking purity and precision. Great energy in the very long, chalky finish.”
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 | The Boursot estate has been handed down over… (+) The Boursot estate has been handed down over 500 years in the tiny town of Chambolle-Musigny. The current winemakers, brothers Romaric and Romuald, have transformed the humble property into an exciting source for well-priced Burgundies. Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) calls them “delicious, consistently excellent;” Steen Öhman (Winehog) finds them “forward, quite vivid…truly exciting.”
We’ve never offered Boursot’s white before, but this year’s was too good to pass up. From vines in Chambolle near the RN-74, this is beautiful everyday white Burgundy. The oak treatment is extremely light and well integrated, and the wine is mostly a fruit-and-stone play. The nose shows clean lemon fruit with a hint of floral perfume and dry grape skin. The mouth is pretty, fresh, middleweight and pretty. A perfect aperitif white Burgundy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Ravaut's wines used to require extended maceration to… (+) Ravaut's wines used to require extended maceration to draw color and flavor from grapes, but now the crop arrives at harvest with enough concentration to ferment more gently. The resulting wines are smoother, beautifully balanced, and simply delicious young. William Kelly of the Wine Advocate calls them “hearty, characterful wines,” with “plenty to admire.”
The Ravaut humble Bourgogne Côte d’Or Rouge is gorgeous this year, a useful entry-level wine that provides excellent value. The nose is dark and sappy with notes of plum and wild cherries. The mouth is inky and smooth, and the tannins are perfectly integrated. This will require no patience, and you won’t be able to keep your hands off it anyway. A perfect, easygoing weeknight red Burgundy.
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 | Dany and Carol Chastan make delicious wines in… (+) Dany and Carol Chastan make delicious wines in Gigondas, a near neighbor and vinous cousin of Chateauneuf du Pape. Their winemaking has always been organic, with biodynamic elements, and their effort is always to faithfully render the wine that the vintage has produced. Beard Award winning author Jon Bonné singled them out for praise in his recent book “The New French Wine,” naming them a benchmark producer of the region and “essential defenders of grenache’s good name.”
The 2023 shows characteristic wild strawberries dominate the aromatic profile, and the palate is round and well balanced, with a bit of salinity joining the delightful ripe fruit. There is very good length in the mouth. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious… (+) Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious Chenin Blanc from his organically farmed vineyard in the central Loire Valley. We visited this spring, and were reminded of just how lush this region is, deserving of its moniker “Le Jardin de France.” Paget’s wines are similarly lush – round and rich with excellent acidity and beautiful depth.
Nicolas’s Chinon Blanc “Passeur du Terroir” from 2022. The warm vintage provided ample ripeness, and this wine is round, luxurious and opulent. Paget raised it in large 500L barrels, and there’s a faint note of spice alongside the yellow pear fruit. A pleasant savory grape-skin minerality joins the lush fruit to give mouthwatering texture almost reminiscent of Chablis. Fans of rich white Burgundy – think Meursault or Pouilly-Fuissé – will enjoy the depth and friendly texture here. Pair this with autumn foods – a lobster bisque, a bouillabaisse, a plate of raclette. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
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 | Salomon Undhof is a centuries-old winery in Krems… (+) Salomon Undhof is a centuries-old winery in Krems, Austria overlooking the Danube River. Today 7th and 8th generation winemakers Bert and Bert Salomon run the estate, and they’re among the best respected sources in the region. They’ve become favorites of many readers (as well as our own family) and we’re delighted to bring them back by popular demand.In Riesling, Salmon has two cuvées that are both stunners this year. Our favorite, the Riesling 1ÖTW Kögl from 2022 is gorgeous – classical dry Riesling with a nose of petrol, slate, stones, and mandarin orange. The mouth is bone dry, with terrific persistence and acidity to keep it fresh for years to come. The 70+ year old vines give this remarkable depth, all packed into a delicious, electric, vibrant wine. Vinous’s reviewer awarded 94 points, writing: “The palate flows with immense juicines…Zestiness frames the edges and makes the mouth water, growing more intense toward the dry finish. Despite its juiciness, there is a stony core and a lastingly pure, pristine citrus aroma.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker… (+) Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker making superb wines of understatement and precision. If some Maconnais whites can verge into overripeness in warm years, Sebastien’s are entirely devoid of heaviness. His careful winemaking – low sulfur, minimal oak, extremely long elevage – results in minimalist wines of precision and grace. Think Thomas Morey Puligny an hour south.
The Pouilly-Loché “Au Bucher” is from 2021, a cool vintage that lends itself well to Sebastien’s understated style. This comes from 75 year old vines, and though it’s a less well-known terroir than Pouilly-Fuissé, the old vines and careful oaking mean this well overperforms its appellation. Look for green apples and white flowers, with intensely channeled fruit and a clean stony finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $36 | |
 | One of our original sources here is Nicolas… (+) One of our original sources here is Nicolas Maillet, an energetic, friendly winemaker bursting with enthusiasm for his craft. Jasper Morris MW calls Maillet “an excellent winemaker;” William Kelley calls his wines “elegantly textural and enveloping...pure and precise” with “immediate charm.” Maillet relies on indigenous yeasts for spontaneous fermentation, and never rushes the process, allowing it to proceed for months if the slow fermentation in his cool cuverie so requires.
Maillet's 2023 Macon-Verzé is magnificent. It's lush and plump from the hot growing season, but shot through with energy and tension. Neal Martin of Vinous calls it "a worthy follow-up to the delicious '22," and we agree. The nose shows an exquisite array of beeswax, pineapple, and lemon verbena; the mouth is vibrant and mouthfilling, with notes of apricot, tangerine, green tea, and a brisk freshness. Serve on its own as a delicious and dynamic aperitif. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $36 | |
| Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first… (+) Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first we offer of the vintage, and as usual it’s an excellent place to start. They’re decidedly old-school in texture, ranging from 11.5% to 12% in alcohol, and sporting a refined daintiness that’s impossible to resist. These wines will arrive as winter turns to spring, and we expect them to suit the warmer weather season perfectly.The Thomas Bourgogne Côte d’Or has been our go-to everyday white Burgundy for nearly two decades, and it continues to shine. The 2024 is pretty and vibrant, with white flowers in the nose, and barely a whisper of oak. The mouth is light and fresh, featherweight and clean. Precision and a linear finish, super-clean showing lots of finesse. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $36 | |
 | Charles Frey (formerly Mersiol) is a terrific Demeter-certified… (+) Charles Frey (formerly Mersiol) is a terrific Demeter-certified biodynamic source in Alsace. The family has made wine in Dambach-la-Ville since 1709, and today makes excellent wines of many colors. The Frey Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardive (late harvest) 2017 offers a beautiful floral bouquet of apricot, peach, and mandarin orange.
In the mouth it is sweet, but the sugar levels are on the order of fifty grams — about half the level of many other dessert wines. What is more, the underlying acidity prevents any cloying sweetness. Get this out at the end of a fine meal and it will surprise and delight your guests. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $38 | |
 | Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and careful winemaker… (+) Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and careful winemaker making superb wines of understatement and precision. If some Maconnais whites can verge into overripeness in warm years, Sebastien’s are entirely devoid of heaviness. His careful winemaking – low sulfur, minimal oak, extremely long elevage – results in minimalist wines of precision and grace. Think Thomas Morey an hour south.
This is always among our favorite bottlings here, and this year it simply shines. The extra ripeness of the vintage is evident, but as always comes with Sebastien’s signature restraint and finesse. The nose is superb, with spice, fruit, and spring flowers all in perfect harmony. The mouth is perfectly integrated with notes of honeysuckle and brioche, and a whisper of oak amid a rich palate. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $38 | |
 | The Boyers use an extended two-year elevage in… (+) The Boyers use an extended two-year elevage in oak barrels and then concrete eggs, and the resulting wines are sleek and full, steering well clear of the traps of overoaking and heaviness. Boyer’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines near his hometown of Meursault, and even this humble cuvée shows a glimmer of that golden Meursault character.
The resulting wine is the best value Bourgogne blanc in our cellar – and with this year’s pricing it might be the best value too. Burghound found the nose “elegant” and “exuberantly fresh,” with “delicious and equally vibrant flavors” in the mouth. The nose opens with citrus and white flowers, and the mouth is full of concentrated fruit and tension. An exceptionally successful white Burgundy, and at the price, an excellent value.
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 | Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from… (+) Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.
Bohrmann’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or Blanc “Les Belles Goutes” is a core presence in many of our customer’s cellars, priced for regular drinking but showing the fine quality of Chardonnay from the Côte d’Or. The vines are from Meursault, and some of the storied village’s opulence seems to find its way into the glass. With alcohol at 13% in the 2023 vintage, the wine is generous, and its rich lemon curd fruit benefits from just the right amount of oak. It’s an excellent house Bourgogne blanc, and one that matches with everything and nothing. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $38 | |
 | The Domaine Collet is run these days by… (+) The Domaine Collet is run these days by Romain Collet, the energetic and talented grandson of Jean Collet, the founder. He experiments with all of today’s means of elevage, so a visitor to the cellars now walks past not only stainless steel tanks and large oak foudres, but also cement eggs, clay amphoras, and barrels of all sizes, from traditional Burgundian to demi-muids holding 400 or 500 liters. Romain skillfully matches the new and old techniques with the various terroirs, crafting delicious and varied wines with much character.
At the village level this year, we've got Romain's new cuvée, from terroir that lies alongside the premier crus on the slope collectively known as “Vaillons.” Chablis "Valvan" is eminently drinkable, plentifully fresh and expressive. Its 60 year old vines provide plenty of stuffing, but dry and lively as a Chablis should be. Jasper Morris praised its “attractively chiselled white fruit, fresh lemons and a crunchy finish.” The village-level designation contributes an attractive price. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $38 | |
| Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit… (+) Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of the international wine press. He’s an insiders’ producer with a mouthwatering collection of terroirs; together with his sister Sylvie who handles much of the viticulture, they continue to turn out magnificent expressions of their unparalleled terroir. Boyer’s 2023s are simply delicious – juicy and fleshy and approachable, but with excellent tension and low alcohol.The Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines around Meursault, and shows its village of origin. The nose is lovely and sophisticated, with sweet yellow fruits and a savory element. The mouth is dry and firm with terrific length and excellent energy. It’s unusually serious this year – tasted blind you might guess a village St-Aubin. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $38 | |
 | Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in… (+) Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in Crozes-Hermitage, the modest close relation of the superstar appellations of Hermitage, Côte Rôtie and Cornas. Happily, the pricing is decidedly also modest, and over a decade or so Domaine Saint Clair has developed a loyal following among friends of Ansonia Wines. As you have heard us say before, the greatest expression of any grape comes at the northern end of its range, which explains the Northern Rhône where Syrah makes superb reds without an assist from Grenache or other red grapes from farther South.Basset has a small plot in St. Joseph across the Rhône on a hillside so steep and hard to work that he named the cuvée “Les Abimes de l’Enfer.” St. Joseph is a sort of junior version of its next door neighbor Cornas. It is a bigger wine than the Crozes, with more tannins and more time to its peak, but it also provides excellent value. The fruits are darker than the Crozes with notes of fig, blackberry jam, spice and pepper. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $38 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $38 | |
 | The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration… (+) The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration nor the ripeness of the last three scorching years, but instead carry a daintiness and precision that some (including us) find a welcome relief.
The village level St-Aubin Champ Tirant is more earthy and savory than the Bourgogne, with less cream in the nose – it’s long in the mouth, with an easygoing mouthfeel and fresh finish. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found “rich, broad fruit with precise, sculpted purity and freshness,” and “well-judged oak.”
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 | The blanc de blancs Crémant Jean-Baptiste Chautard, named for the Founder… (+) The blanc de blancs Crémant Jean-Baptiste Chautard, named for the Founder, is the Maison Picamelot’s flagship wine. The current offering is from the 2016 harvest and a part spends time in oak barrels. With seven years on the lees it has developed plenty of complexity. The fruit recalls pear and apricot, and there are notes of brioche and oak alongside.
We cellar some of this wine in the bottle and recently have opened strikingly good bottles from the harvests of 2012 and 2015. During warehouse tastings last fall we put the 2015 up against some true Champagne – the Chautard more than acquitted itself (at half the price) and to some tasters won outright. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $39 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $39 | |
 | Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic… (+) Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
The regular Hautes Côtes red cuvée is very nice in 2022, garnering a designation from Allen Meadows (Burghound) for wines he judges to be “particularly outstanding for their respective appellations.” Vinous’s Neal Martin found it “particularly aromatic” and praised its “sweet entry” and “gentle grip.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $39 | |
 | Tucked into a sleepy hamlet just over the… (+) Tucked into a sleepy hamlet just over the western ridge of the Côte de Nuits lies the Ferme Fruirouge. The Olivier family has made cremes here for nine generations, and the farm itself dates back four centuries. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. The hints of cassis we often describe in pinot noir are maximized here, and the taste is an extraordinary distillation of fruit.
We add a splash of crème de cassis to a glass of Picamelot crémant for a delicious, attractive, effortless (and cheap) aperitif – a “kir bourguignon” if you will. Other ideas include a traditional kir (cassis and aligoté), communard (cassis and pinot noir), or cassis drizzled on crepes. (You can add it to champagne too, of course, though we think the cassis is flavorful enough that the trade up from crémant generally isn’t worth it.) (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $39 | |
 | A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless… (+) A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless attention to detail, Gautier landed at his family’s domaine a decade ago, and has since transformed it into one of the region’s superstars. We find ourselves saying this almost every year, but his 2023s are the best he’s made – ripe and sleek with perfect extraction and maturity, vibrant textures, and elegant, lifting finishes. Gautier called them “digeste” (roughly, “digestible”), which is an excellent characterization.
Gautier’s 2023 Givry “Champ la Dame” is excellent. The nose shows violets and spruce, with perfectly rounded tannins and a welcoming finish. The tannins are chalky and fine but almost disappear by the end of the palate. Some years this wine finishes a bit rustic for the first month or so; the 2023 will require no patience at all, and will be hard to put down. Serve with chicken from the grill later this summer. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $39 | |
 | Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker… (+) Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker making superb wines of understatement and precision. If some Maconnais whites can verge into overripeness in warm years, Sebastien’s are entirely devoid of heaviness. His careful winemaking – low sulfur, minimal oak, extremely long elevage – results in minimalist wines of precision and grace. Think Thomas Morey Puligny an hour south.
The Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes 2022 is outstanding. It’s entirely barrel raised, from vines planted mostly in the 1940s. They’re at 250m altitude, so offer intensity from their age but fineness from their elevation. South facing and just next to the premier cru “Vers Cras,” this is a special plot of vines, and so is the wine it produces. The nose is gorgeous and deep, with floral intensity and savory spice. The mouth continues the theme with and adds a dollop of ripe yellow fruit and a burst of acidity. This is a delicious mouthful, and if it said premier cru on the label, nobody would raise an eyebrow. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $39 |