Red Burgundy Verticals

Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.

Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.

So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.

 

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The 2022 vintage was kind not only to…
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The 2022 vintage was kind not only to Burgundy: growing conditions were also exemplary in the Northern Rhône. When we tasted the Etincelle 2022 from the barrel, Denis remarked that he thought 2022 his best vintage ever of the wine. (“Etincelle” means “spark” in French, and the name for the cuvée is in homage to his near-electrocution.) “Etincelle” 2022 is outstanding. With 13% alcohol it retains its freshness, amid an abundance of lush, dark, ripe fruit. It’s perfectly balanced, with good weight, a pleasant mouthfeel, and a longer than usual finish.
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Basset’s white is a Roussanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), and…
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Basset’s white is a Roussanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), and the only wine of its kind in our portfolio: rounder and more tropical than white Burgundy; more tension than Condrieu; more softness than our Loire whites. The 2023 has just arrived and it’s outstanding – the nose is soft and enveloping, with tropical notes of mango, pineapple, and green tea. The mouth is rich and round, but well balanced, showing nectarine and honey notes. There’s so much exotic fruit in the nose you almost expect this to be sweet, but the mouth finishes cool and soft and dry with terrific tension.
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Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape…
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Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape varietal with common Côtes du Rhônes, but little else. Chauvin’s tiny Domaine le Souverain has no website, no road sign, and barely a phone number -- his cellar is a converted garage. But his wines have more complexity and depth than nearly anything else we taste at their level, and manage to remain a bargain. Like the Seguret, this wine is entirely vat-raised. It is made from 55% Grenache and 30% Syrah, with the balance from Mourvedre. The Sablet 22 offers the same rich and round mouthfeel, but the Mourvedre adds a dark cherry tone to the fruit. Eric said that the Mourvedre “helps to hold the fruit,” and indeed the added complexity made the wine even more attractive.
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Florence Cartier continues to steer her family’s domaine…
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Florence Cartier continues to steer her family’s domaine with a calm, thoughtful hand, producing traditional southern Rhône cuvées in the best sense of the term. They’re distinct in style from many of our low-intervention Southern Rhône sources – Joncuas, André, Malmont, to name a few. Goubert’s wines are clean and consistent, comfortingly old-school in character and taste. Goubert’s Beaumes de Venise rouge has become one of our favorite cuvées in recent years, and the 2023 is the best yet. It’s a grenache-syrah-mourvedre blend from a single vineyard plot. The town is best known for its sweet dessert wine from Muscat, but this terroir is well suited to red. The nose is deep and floral with beautiful violet and lavender notes, and hints of plum jam. The mouth is smooth and rich with excellent freshness and a delicate stoniness inlaid among the abundant strawberry and raspberry fruit. The balance is impeccable, and the texture perfectly suited to the fruit. It’s hard to imagine a more impressive $25 red.
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Michot’s style is straightforward – no oak, old…
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Michot’s style is straightforward – no oak, old vines producing fresh, dry, low-alcohol wine. It’s rarely the fanciest wine on a table, but it’s often the first bottle empty. Its brisk texture and lovely dry fruit make it pairable with a long list of foods, from cheese (goat is best), to oysters, to chicken, to paté, to nothing at all. Michot’s 2024 is everything you want in an everyday Loire white – dry, refreshing, low alcohol (12.5%), smooth, and inexpensive. Made from 40-70 year old vines, there’s excellent concentration and great length. The nose shows lime, stones and grapefruit; the mouth is clear and crisp, with an easygoing, dry finish.
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We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now…
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We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now, but we were pleased to see the Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert William Kelley visit last year. After tasting Kelley wrote that “Picamelot produces some of the best sparkling wines in Burgundy,” calling them “elegant,” “excellent,” and “superb.” This nose is clean and elegant, with notes of almond, pineapple, and cream. The mouth is very dry, quite lively, and crisply refreshing, with apple fruit and a long vinous finish. At under $30 this continues to be a steal; pair this with a warm Friday afternoon.
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“Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis…
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“Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis Basset family’s horticultural roots. It comes from 50 year-old Syrah vines, which give exceptional depth and intensity. It’s noticeably more concentrated and intense than Étincelle, shows a bit more new oak, and offers more complexity — a bit of black olive and smokiness along with the fruit. It can be cellared for up to eight or ten years.
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Perched on a steep hillside east of the…
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Perched on a steep hillside east of the town, Malmont’s vines benefit from high (cooler) elevation and plentiful airflow, enabling the grapes to reach maturity without becoming baked or dried out. The 2019 Rouge is closer to an even syrah/grenache split, and offers a more serious and impressive profile. Haeni raises this one in foudre (large oak barrel), which contributes to the spice and depth of the wine. Here wild cherries and earth join the violets, and the mouth is both deeper and finer grained. This cuvée ages beautifully.
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Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare…
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Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s. Made from grapes in a single sunny, south-facing vineyard, the Vouvray Sec “Coteau les Brûlés” (meaning “burnt hill”) is thicker and fuller than Fontainerie's classic Vouvray cuvée, but most interestingly, it's the 2014. The nose is stony and crisp, with notes of dried apples, apricot and herbs. The mouth is clean and dry, with a surprising freshness, a dose of salt air, and notes of dried flower petals. Serve with a salty goat cheese.
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Chenin Blanc from Vouvray is one of France’s…
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Chenin Blanc from Vouvray is one of France’s cornerstone wines, in production since at least the 9th Century. Our source here is Catherine Dhoye-Deruet of the Domaine de la Fontainerie – her family has made wine here for 300 years, and the domaine has been under her steady guidance for the last 30. This cuvée comes from “Les Brûlés,” a south-facing plot of chalk limestone soils. The extra sun and deeper soils add more depth to the wine, and the 2022 Vouvray “Coteau les Brûlés” is deep and floral. The nose is perfumed and lovely with notes of baked apple crisp; the mouth is dry but fuller and riper than the Sec. Again there’s no oak, but there’s more savory spice behind the lush fruit.
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Aligoté continues to enjoy its time in the…
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Aligoté continues to enjoy its time in the Burgundian spotlight. The traditional Burgundian grape varietal has always made up about 10% of the region’s white vines, but a new group of self-titled “Aligoteurs,” spurred on by warmer, drier summers and a hunt for value, have championed the grape and have pushed its possibilities of expression. And you’d expect from the hottest, driest vintage yet, Vincent’s 2022 Aligoté is terrific. Burghound awarded it both his “top value” and “outstanding” designations, finding it “sleek, delicious and nicely concentrated’ with “a lovely sense of vibrancy,” concluding “an excellent example of the genre.”
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The Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes spends a year in big barrels…
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The Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes spends a year in big barrels, and so the 2022 is on offer. It’s darker and more serious – the old vines bring concentration and depth of flavor. This lasts far longer on the palate, with more supporting tannin. The nose is dried roses and wild cherries; the mouth is dark and rugged with earthy notes and a delicious saline finish. Drink this with pizza, and don’t be afraid to get the spicy one.
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As usual, Galloni is a fan of Poggerino’s…
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As usual, Galloni is a fan of Poggerino’s new releases. He found this year’s pair “another set of terrific wines from Piero Lanza,” calling them “transparent, nuanced wines that capture the essence of Radda.” For earlier drinking, the Chianti Classico Annata 2022 is terrific. In his October piece, Asimov confessed that for years his general Chianti preference was for Annata over Riserva because of its “gorgeous purity” and reasonable prices. Galloni thought the Poggerino 2022 Annata richer than usual, but also predicted that “this plush, open-knit Chianto Classico will drink well right out of the gate.”
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for…
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.” The Macon Solutre-Pouilly 2023 comes from a plot in Pouilly, along the line between the hamlets of Pouilly and Fuissé. The Vessigauds vinify and raise it in large oak foudres for eleven months, where micro-oxygenation develops density and flavor rather than any apparent oak. The 2023 is much like the 2022, which became the house white for many of our fans of white Burgundy. There is surprising depth and length for a wine of this pedigree, with pure Chardonnay fruit and excellent tension.
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Vouvray is in the central Loire, an area…
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Vouvray is in the central Loire, an area known for its Chenin Blanc planted in an unusual type of soft limestone called tuffeau. Like many in Vouvray, Catherine Dhoye-Deruet's caves are carved into the tuffeau right below her vines – it’s a unique and remarkable place, and one that can produce terrific wines. The 2016 Vouvray Demi-Sec was perhaps the most exciting wine at the Fontainerie tasting. At just 20g of residual sugar – compared with, say, 120g for Sauternes – this is barely sweet. In fact the splash of RS serves as just one element among many, along with a burst of stony freshness, clean acidity, and lush tropical fruit. With its near decade in the bottle, the fruit has developed into an extraordinary array of flavors, including raisins, dried mango, baked pear, yellow plum, and others unnamed / unknowable. But the end of the palate finishes with an elegant and vibrant tension. This wine has the sweetness of a lightly sweetened cocktail – think a Tom Collins or Whisky Sour – with the same acidity to balance.
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Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled…
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Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled grapes, the low price of this wine is remarkable. Voigny’s nose and mouth are full of the classic honeysuckle, apricots and peaches, but it’s the acidity that keeps this wine lively. Many sweet wines lack acidity and fall flat – Voigny is bursting with freshness to balance out its sweetness. . There may be no more perfect food-wine pairing than Sauternes with seared foie gras. If your stomach (or conscience) is too sensitive, serve blue cheese as a salty foil instead. Or serve a small glass in place of dessert at the end of the meal. A favorite wine of Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, this iconic wine will round out any cellar with style.
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Sebastien Giroux is a terrific young winemaker farming…
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Sebastien Giroux is a terrific young winemaker farming just six hectares of vines in and around Pouilly-Fuissé. Giroux’s disciplined organic winemaking results in extraordinary wines – William Kelley describes them as “supple, pure and charming.” Everything in our first importation sold out in months. From a tiny appellation and a near-perfect Maconnais vintage, the 2020 Pouilly-Loché is a hidden treasure. The nose is clean and refined with notes of white flowers, citrus peel and almond. The mouth is silky and beautiful with perfectly balanced acidity amid notes of yellow fruit, ginger, and tangerine.
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Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious…
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Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious organic Chenin Blanc from the central Loire Valley. From his small, humble domaine not far from the Loire River, Paget produces a wide range of red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, all full of energy and life. This cuvée is Chenin Blanc from more impressive terroir and deeper soils than Paget's Melodie. This nose is perfumed and beautiful, with notes of yellow apples and pear compote. The mouth is rich, smooth and very long with notes of grapefruit, honey, lime and apricot. It sees a few months in old oak barrels, which add a smoothness and spice to the lush fruit. If a Meursault were made from Chenin Blanc it might taste like this.
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Vincent Boyer is among the small group of…
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Vincent Boyer is among the small group of vignerons who watched the region warming and recognized its potential to elevate the quality of Aligoté, Chardonnay’s poor relation.  Les Aligoteurs, as they are known, have brought Aligoté light years beyond its skinny, acidic past. Vincent raises his Aligoté in older versions of the same barrels he uses for his famous wines from Meursault and Puligny, which gives the wine a roundness and weight that we wouldn’t have thought possible from this modest grape. Burghound praised the 2021’s “exceptionally fresh aromas includ[ing] those of lemon rind, green apple and spice,” and its “very fine persistence on the clean and agreeably dry finish.”
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Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de…
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Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de la Garenne, owned by members of a leading wine-producing family in the town. The Godon-Reverdys produce superb Sancerre at a variety of price points, and their wines are among the most popular in our portfolio. The regular cuvee has a new name and label this year – “Alliance” 2023 – but it offers the same combination of the classic elements that made Sancerre’s name: beautiful ripe grapefruit and excellent dry freshness. In the 2023 vintage, the nose also contains a note of orchard fruit, perhaps white peach, and the wine is generous in the mouth, with a pleasant dollop of supporting acidity.
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Sisters Dany and Carole Chastan are third generation…
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Sisters Dany and Carole Chastan are third generation vigneronnes practicing old-school winemaking -- whole clusters, limited sulfur, all wild yeasts. They use no new oak, and neither fine nor filter. Their wines are juicy and deep and very expressive, with gorgeous fruit. Writer Jon Bonné has named them a benchmark producer of the region, “essential defenders of grenache’s good name.” Their just-arrived 2022 Vacqueyras is delicious, and a terrific value. From an appellation just south of Gigondas, this is nearly all Grenache (85%). The nose is extraordinary, bursting with dark wild strawberry fruit, plums, lavender, bay leaf and earth – a splash of Mourvedre adds complexity and backbone. It’s a crowd-pleasing everyday red that will offer immediate pleasure.
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Paget’s Chinon blanc 2021 is pure Chenin blanc…
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Paget’s Chinon blanc 2021 is pure Chenin blanc, this one raised in large barrels (none new). The oak is deftly handled, and you might not even notice it if you didn’t know what to look for – it adds a bit of depth and white pepper to the clean orchard fruit. It’s deeper in the nose than the most dry Chenin Blanc – think gardenia and rose – but with the same pretty pear fruit. The 2021 is drier than last year’s, and we think more sophisticated and impressive. There’s a savory grape-skin minerality to the wine that gives a mouthwatering texture reminiscent of Chablis. It’s a classy wine that should pair well with a range of springtime foods – a lobster roll, crab cakes, or raclette grilled cheese.
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Vincent Ravaut will be certified EU organic as…
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Vincent Ravaut will be certified EU organic as of this vintage, they’ve dialed back oak, and, crucially, have abandoned “pigeage” (punching down) to extract their wines. Once necessary to pull color and flavor from grapes in vintages on the margins of ripeness, their crop now arrives at harvest with enough concentration to ferment more gently. The resulting wines are smoother, beautifully balanced, and simply delicious young. No wine has improved more than their humble Bourgogne Côte d’Or rouge. In 2022 nose is dark and plummy with juicy notes of wild cherries and earth. The Ravauts elected not to filter this wine this year, and the result is a juicy and effortlessly enjoyable glass of old-world Pinot Noir.
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Amiot's Coteaux-Bourguignons is a traditional Burgundian blend of…
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Amiot's Coteaux-Bourguignons is a traditional Burgundian blend of 50/50 Gamay and Pinot Noir. The gamay comes from a 60 year old plot of vines in Morey-St-Denis, and for decades the blended cuvée was reserved just for the family. It blends the rugged muscly character of gamay with the finesse and silky texture of pinot noir. The resulting wine is a delightful aperitif – a marriage of the untamed soul of the Beaujolais with the polish and detail of Burgundian Pinot Noir.
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The Godon-Reverdys are from a storied Sancerre family…
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The Godon-Reverdys are from a storied Sancerre family that has produced wine in Sancerre for generations. They’re certified organic, and in fact use many biodynamic treatments they find useful, as well as a team of sheep to keep grasses down and soil fertilized. Their wines are classic Sancerre, and among the most popular in the store. Alliance ‘24 offers beautiful sauvignon fruit with aromatic overlays of grapefruit and some orchard fruit, perhaps white peach. Alliance is generous for a Sancerre, but in the mouth there’s a spine of freshness that keeps the wine bright enough through the palate. It is classic and delicious.
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The Champenois often mix Pinot Noir juice (skinless…
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The Champenois often mix Pinot Noir juice (skinless thus colorless) into their cuvées of Champagne, and today’s example from Burgundy borrows this idea. Made from a select plot of 100% Pinot Noir grown in the hills above the Côte d’Or, the Maison Picamelot’s “Terroir de Chazot” is an complex and unusual example of terroir-based sparkling wine. Most crémant in Burgundy and Alsace is a blend of several varietals from different locations. For this wine, Picamelot decided to isolate a single grape from a single plot and bottle it unblended – the result is a finer, more intense and earthy sparkling wine, with notes of roasted apples and herbs.
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The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge…
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The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it. The French most often use these crèmes for a kir or kir royale — a glass of aligoté or sparkling wine with a splash of crème. It’s a refreshing, delightful cocktail that’s distinct, elegant, and festive.
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Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real…
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Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real aging potential and sophistication. Our choice in the 2018 vintage is Saumur-Champigny “Les Dares,” from 55 year-old vines and raised in small oak barrels for 15 months. In this wine a pleasant dose of oak joins the fruit.  It’s very attractive in the mouth: round in the opening but with plenty of supporting structure and very nice length. Fine grained tannins support the notes of cranberry, cassis and silky minerality.
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Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles…
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Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles Frey is a terrific biodynamic source in Dambach-la-Ville in the heart of the Alsace. Their pure, clean wines burst with character and life, and everything from them comes heartily recommended. These vines lie on well-drained granite that lies in a rain shadow, making for particularly intense and concentrated wine.  The 2019 vintage offers an expressive nose with peach notes and a dose of petrol.  In the mouth the fruit is pleasantly round and reasonably full, with very good persistence on the palate. This is notably more serious wine that will hold its own with a wide range of dishes: Asian plates, of course, but also chicken and fish or cheese fondue.
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We generally prefer our Cabernet Franc unoaked and…
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We generally prefer our Cabernet Franc unoaked and pure (see last paragraph), but it’s hard to pass up Sanzay’s Saumur-Champigny rouge “Beauregard." If you like your Loire reds more serious and ageworthy, here’s an exciting find. Today the nose shows toasty oak, but it’s already started to integrate beautifully into the fruit; and we expect the trend to continue. The 50+ year old vines contribute impressive richness, which the Sanzays have handled masterfully -- despite all of the inky, old-vine material, the shape of the wine remains fine and precise (even angular). This is Cabernet Franc at its most Burgundian -- intense, earthy fruit that somehow retains its lift and sophistication. We expect this to improve for another 3-4 years, and wouldn’t be surprised it it was still impressive in 10.
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The Salomon-Undhof estate dates to 1792, and is…
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The Salomon-Undhof estate dates to 1792, and is currently on its 7th and 8th generation winemakers, father and son Bert and Bert Salomon. Their terraced vines overlooking the Danube have long been an excellent source, with the country’s preeminent wine guide calling them a “figurehead of Austrian wine history.” The Wachtberg's nose is floral and beautiful, with savory/saline elements melting into lush ripe fruit. The Wine Advocate’s reviewer found notes of “blood orange and grapefruit zest,” calling it “clear, round and elegant.” The texture is more concentrated and waxy than the Wieden, and this will easily accompany foods with a bit of kick – think Thai cuisine or sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi.
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A small valley stretches out from the base…
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A small valley stretches out from the base of Sancerre’s hill up toward Chavignol, home to the much-celebrated goat cheese “Crottin de Chavignol” (itself a wonderful match for Sancerre). Along the valley there is a famous stretch of clay-limestone terroir called the “Monts Damnés.” It’s steep and imposing, and it consistently generates top-rated Sancerre. Domaine de la Garenne has its own special terroir along that same slope, right next to the Monts Damnés: Les Bouffants, whose grapes they vinify separately. Sancerre “Bouffants” 2022 offers a chalky and focused grapefruit nose. There’s more intensity in the fruit and more clearly mineral notes mixed in. The wine persists well on the palate and the finish is longer.
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Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare…
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Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s. With 30 grams of residual sugar and excellent minerality, this Demi-Sec is lightly sweet – picture the sweetness in a bowl of ripe berries rather than a slice of cake. The nose is tropical and wonderful, showing quince, pear, and cooked apples. The mouth is smooth, elegant and quite long, with a beautiful velvety texture and almost a hint of tannin. This cuvée probably isn’t sweet enough for dessert – we’d serve it with a spicy Asian dish, sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi, or fish tacos alongside salsa with some authority.
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If you like your Loire reds more serious…
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If you like your Loire reds more serious and ageworthy, here’s an exciting find. The nose shows smoke and anise, which have both started to integrate beautifully into the fruit; and we expect the trend to continue. The 50+ year old vines contribute impressive richness, which the Sanzay Family have handled masterfully -- despite all of the inky, old-vine material, the shape of the wine remains fine and precise (even angular). This is Cabernet Franc at its most Burgundian -- intense, earthy fruit that somehow retains its lift and sophistication. We expect this to improve for another 3-4 years, and wouldn’t be surprised it it was still impressive in a decade. Lightweight, carefree Cabernet Franc is useful and delicious, but here’s ample proof the grape can perform on a higher level.
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Gilles and Séverin Chollet are father and son…
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Gilles and Séverin Chollet are father and son vignerons in Pouilly-Fumé crafting approachable, tasty, well-priced Sauvignon blancs. The Chollet style is subtler and less punchy than Michot’s, with more refinement and a lighter touch. Grown on exclusively limestone soils, there’s more concentration and stoniness here, with notes of citrus and oyster shell. There’s excellent density of fruit, and while the palate is packed with flavor, it’s never heavy or overdone. A pleasant dollop of sucrocité joins the notes of gardenia, roses, and lime. This is less explosive than Garenne and Michot, seeking refinement and subtlety rather than a burst of freshness.
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From their historic domaine in the center of…
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From their historic domaine in the center of Chambolle-Musigny, the Boursot brothers continue to produce delicious red Burgundies full of character and richness. As they hone their cellar techniques the wines have gained precision and finesse, but they retain the rugged, charming spirit that first brought us to this domaine. Romaric told us their 2022 growing season was just about perfect, with the wines exhibiting classical charm of old-school Burgundy but the intense concentration of modern sunny vintages. Boursot’s Bourgogne is from vines near Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée, and raised entirely in stainless steel. As you’d expect, it’s pure delightful fruit in the nose, with hints of chalk and spice, but not a whisper of oak. The Boursots have extracted this perfectly, and the tannins are fresh and friendly.
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Our favorite source for these delicious reds is…
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Our favorite source for these delicious reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, an organic fixture of Saumur-Champginy in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, with their simple Saumur red and old-vine cuvée opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape. This year it was Sanzay’s parcellaire cuvée “Les Dares” that grabbed our attention. Drawn from a single plot of 65+ year old cabernet franc, this is an impressive wine. The nose is very fine and detailed, with a distinct note of honeysuckle over the red apple fruits and violet petals. The mouth is fine grained and concentrated with perfectly balanced tannin and a clean, dry finish. Decant for a half hour and serve with stews or duck or steak.
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Grown high in the hills above Séguret in…
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Grown high in the hills above Séguret in the Southern Rhône, the Malmont vines struggle though rock-laden nutrient-poor soils, slowing their maturation. The west-facing hillside at 1200 feet of elevation enjoys plentiful breezes throughout the growing season, keeping the grapes cool and healthy. The resulting wines are almost an anomaly in the modern Rhône Valley: organic, delicious southern red blends that barely hit 13.5% alcohol. They show the dark, dense rich fruit for which the region is known, but always with vibrant tension and lift. Nicolas Haeni's Séguret 2022 is the best he’s made. The extreme heat and drought delivered loads of ripe, intense fruit; Nicolas extracted them minimally and perfectly, and the resulting wine impeccably balances lush fruit with a subtle, sculpted backbone. The nose shows same wild strawberries with hints of gingerbread and pain d’épices too.
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for…
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We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.” The Macon-Fuissé “Les Taches” is from high up a hill just outside the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. It’s both vinified and raised in 5-10 year old oak barrels, and while there’s no new oak this cuvée has the added weight and complexity of a more serious wine. The nose is gorgeous and floral; the mouth is rich and smooth and not a bit lacking in acidity. It well overperforms its appellation, and we think of it as a baby Pouilly-Fuissé.
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About 20 minutes up the road from the…
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About 20 minutes up the road from the Domaine Dupré-Goujon, Frederic Berne is another young Beaujolais producer who brings energy and innovation to his winemaking. Like Dupré and Goujon, he is committed to organic and biodynamic viticulture, careful stewardship of his vines and of the biodiversity of his terroir. In style, Berne’s wines are more like classic Beaujolais: dominated by their fruit and offering immediate pleasure. Régnié is lighter and slightly more rugged, with that crunchy, bonvivant character you often find in the Beaujolais. It’s got more intensity than the Lantigné, but it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The nose is deep red and bursting with cherries and a hint of lavender. The mouth is fresh and concentrated, and just calls for a burger. Neal Martin found “fleshy, fluid tannins and a keen line of acidity,” concluding, “this is a delightful Régnié.”
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About 20 minutes up the road from the…
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About 20 minutes up the road from the Domaine Dupré-Goujon, Frederic Berne is another young Beaujolais producer who brings energy and innovation to his winemaking. Like Dupré and Goujon, he is committed to organic and biodynamic viticulture, careful stewardship of his vines and of the biodiversity of his terroir. In style, Berne’s wines are more like classic Beaujolais: dominated by their fruit and offering immediate pleasure. Our other suggestion from Berne is a more serious wine, his Morgon “Corcellette” 2023.  The fruit is darker here, and the wine has a good deal more body. There’s more going in the nose, with a floral touch joining the fruit, and the wine persists well on the palate. Suckling’s reviewer writes “Ripe and powerful but also elegant, this has excellent mineral freshness and a graceful personality that’s hard not to like.”
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This is 80% grenache (some from centenarian vines)…
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This is 80% grenache (some from centenarian vines), with the rest Mourvèdre and Cinsault. The fruit is clean and very pure, with a gorgeous silky texture and notes of violets, raspberry, garrigue, and spice. Think of it as Grenache that wants to be Syrah. Tasted blind you’d swear you were in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It beautifully integrates gorgeous grenache fruit with an earthy, mineral line and a judicious dose of Provençal spice. There’s plenty of material here, but it comes wrapped in a fine-grained structure that will make it drinkable from day one. Look for violets, plums, strawberries, and earth — the mouth is rich but impeccably balanced.
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Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de…
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Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de la Garenne, owned by members of a leading wine-producing family in the town. The Godon-Reverdys produce superb Sancerre at a variety of price points, and their wines are among the most popular in our portfolio. Bouffants is a limestone laden terroir, and from it the wine draws its deep mineral intensity. The vines in Bouffants have an average age of 40 years, and so it’s a more serious wine than the regular cuvée, with stony fruit that lingers long on the palate. It's a more sophisticated Sancerre, and in the 2023 vintage, the finish is unusually long.
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Many whites from the Southern Rhône Valley fall…
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Many whites from the Southern Rhône Valley fall into traps of flatness and softness—victims of the scorching summer sun. Nicolas Haeni’s Malmont vineyard is perched high on a hill in a spot that receives consistent cool breezes and chilly nights. These natural advantages make it possible for him to craft whites with freshness and modest alcohol, which also happen to be flat-out delicious. His 2024 pure Roussanne blanc is delightful and clean, fermented in tank and aged in 3–4-year-old oak barrels. The nose is almost Burgundian, but with exotic notes of lychee, pear, and white pepper. A triumph of restraint and subtlety in a region whose whites seldom possess either.
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