Red Burgundy Verticals

Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.

Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.

So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.

 

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Salomon Undhof’s Riesling “Terrassen” is simply beautiful this…
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Salomon Undhof’s Riesling “Terrassen” is simply beautiful this year. The nose is bright and clean with notes of white stone fruits, lime zest, and a hint of slate. The mouth is pretty and concentrated with dried apple fruits and a lemon-saline finish. There’s an electric, vibrant quality to the wine that makes it refreshing and awfully hard to put down.
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Located in Vouvray in the central Loire Valley…
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Located in Vouvray in the central Loire Valley, Fontainerie is a small 6-hectare estate producing delicious wines of pure Chenin Blanc. The winemaker is Catherine Dhoye-Deruet – she’s run the place since the 90s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s. This cuvée is just what we want from Vouvray – pure, classic, refreshing Chenin blanc, raised in steel (no oak) and fermented fully dry. The nose is floral and fresh, with notes of apple blossom, ripe pear, saffron and chalk. The mouth is clean and crisp, with smooth fruit and a clean finish. Simple, delightful summertime Chenin blanc.
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Frederic Berne is a warm, friendly young winemaker…
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Frederic Berne is a warm, friendly young winemaker in the town of Lantignié. His longterm goal is to add his home town as the 11th Cru Beaujolais, but whatever the outcome, along the way he continues to make terrific, classical Gamay. Berne’s Beaujolais-Lantignié “Pierre Bleue” 2023 is crisp, juicy, carefree and delicious – a Beaujolais for a backyard barbecue or a tailgate. Grown on the appellation’s blue granite soil, it’s lively and floral with low tannins and an easy, refreshing finish. Serve this instead of Beaujolais Nouveau -- for a few bucks more its 10x the wine.
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Sanzay's wines are pure Cabernet Franc, and fit…
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Sanzay's wines are pure Cabernet Franc, and fit modern Loire style — small batch, organic, limited oak, concerned with balance and freshness rather than extraction and muscle. They use all wild yeasts, neither fine nor filter, and produce complex, natural expressions of the charming central Loire. The old-vine cuvée comes from vines aged 50-110 years, and spends a year in oak barrels (none new). The nose is delicate and pretty, with violets, plums, and red currants. The mouth is dense and very refined, with added notes of plum, allspice and black pepper. This is expertly made Cabernet Franc, with enough intensity to carry it for at least another five years. Serve today after an hour in a decanter -- it’s a vibrant, affordable break from your Rhône red fallbacks.
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“Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis…
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“Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis Basset family’s horticultural roots. It comes from 50 year-old Syrah vines, which give exceptional depth and intensity. It’s noticeably more concentrated and intense than Étincelle, shows a bit more new oak, and offers more complexity — a bit of black olive and smokiness along with the fruit. It can be cellared for up to eight or ten years.
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Basset’s white is a Rousanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), in…
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Basset’s white is a Rousanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), in the style of a classic northern Rhône. The nose is soft and enveloping, with tropical notes of mango, pineapple, and green tea. The mouth is rich and round, but well balanced, showing nectarine and honey notes. There’s so much exotic fruit in the nose you almost expect this to be sweet, but the mouth finishes cool and soft and dry.
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Located at the northern end of the sprawling…
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Located at the northern end of the sprawling Languedoc, winemakers Pierre Jéquier and Blandine Chauchat craft blends of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan that perfectly reflect their untamed, rugged landscape. Year in and year out, they manage to find balance and finesse in their warm region. The Orphée 2018 is an excellent entree to the lineup, a 50/50 Grenache-Syrah blend. The nose is dark and woodsy, combining wild berries, lavender, and sous-bois. The mouth shows black fruits and black licorice, with a juicy texture and serious finish. The 2018 is slightly bolder and more substantial than usual
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Garenne makes less than 200 cases of this…
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Garenne makes less than 200 cases of this wine per year, and the current release 2018 is lovely. The nose shows cinnamon, cloves, rose petals, and intense cherry liqueur. The oak comes across as spice and smoothness. The mouth is punchy and silky with well built tannins that have weathered their time in barrel beautifully. We taste a lot of wine, particularly Pinot Noir -- but even we can be surprised from time to time. This is a surprisingly attractive non-Burgundy Pinot Noir with nice depth and a summer weight.
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Nicolas excitedly told us he had changed the…
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Nicolas excitedly told us he had changed the formula for Indr et Loire in 2018 — “style vin Jurassien,” he called it in his email. If we had any doubt what he meant, one whiff from the sample he sent cleared it up. This year’s Indr et Loire is Paget’s homage to the Jura — Chenin Blanc raised “sous voile,” under a “veil” of yeast. This style is most famously employed to make sherry in Jerez and Vin Jaune in the Jura. We found Paget’s sous-voile wine fascinating and delicious. The nose has the classic oxidized, nutty character of a wine made with flor, but with subtle Chenin fruit. The wine is dry, but shows considerably more fruit and texture than the ultra-dry waxy Jura whites made from Savagnin. The mouth is long and full of tension — we found pears, white flowers, almonds, honey and hazelnuts.
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The 2019 Macon-Verzé is simply delicious, bursting with…
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The 2019 Macon-Verzé is simply delicious, bursting with pure, vibrant unoaked Chardonnay fruit. Its 50-year-old vines produce a concentrated wine that explodes from the glass with notes of pear, tangerine, wild honey, herbs and chalk. There’s excellent freshness following a smooth, intense, fruit-filled attack. William Kelley found it “bright and precise” with a “gently honeyed finish,” awarding 90 points and concluding “it’s a terrific value.”
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Perched on a steep hillside east of the…
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Perched on a steep hillside east of the town, Malmont’s vines benefit from high (cooler) elevation and plentiful airflow, enabling the grapes to reach maturity without becoming baked or dried out. The 2019 Rouge is closer to an even syrah/grenache split, and offers a more serious and impressive profile. Haeni raises this one in foudre (large oak barrel), which contributes to the spice and depth of the wine. Here wild cherries and earth join the violets, and the mouth is both deeper and finer grained. This cuvée ages beautifully.
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The Chastan family has been making wine in…
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The Chastan family has been making wine in the same style for two generations. They were among the earliest in the region to farm organically (they were certified in 1980!), and their winemaking is simple and straightforward.  Vinification for all the wines is cement vats, followed by an elevage in either vats or neutral oak foudres.  The wines are neither fined nor filtered. The Vacqueyras is particularly attractive in the 2019 vintage. Its dark fruit comes from a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre, vinified mostly from whole clusters. The wine is rich and round, with dense, fine-grained tannins and excellent balance.
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Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk…
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Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk freshness, clean minerality, excellent clarity of terroir. Jasper Morris MW is also a fan, writing in early 2023, “I must say that Cyril Gautheron’s wines are climbing up my table of Chablis producers.” Raised entirely in stainless steel, this is Chardonnay at its purest and most stripped down. It’s bursting with classic citrus and minerals, with excellent tension across a surprisingly long mouthfeel. “Nicely focused,” writes Neal Martin in Vinous, “well-proportioned with a fine ‘bite’ of acidity…well crafted Petit Chablis.”
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Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare…
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Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s. Made from grapes in a single sunny, south-facing vineyard, the Vouvray Sec “Coteau les Brûlés” (meaning “burnt hill”) is thicker and fuller than Fontainerie's classic Vouvray cuvée, but most interestingly, it's the 2014. The nose is stony and crisp, with notes of dried apples, apricot and herbs. The mouth is clean and dry, with a surprising freshness, a dose of salt air, and notes of dried flower petals. Serve with a salty goat cheese.
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Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de…
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Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de la Garenne, owned by members of a leading wine-producing family in the town. The Godon-Reverdys produce superb Sancerre at a variety of price points, and their wines are among the most popular in our portfolio. The regular cuvee has a new name and label this year – “Alliance” 2023 – but it offers the same combination of the classic elements that made Sancerre’s name: beautiful ripe grapefruit and excellent dry freshness. In the 2023 vintage, the nose also contains a note of orchard fruit, perhaps white peach, and the wine is generous in the mouth, with a pleasant dollop of supporting acidity.
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Sebastien took us to his vines here last…
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Sebastien took us to his vines here last spring – he explained that when the original lines of the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation were drawn last century, the Vers Chanes plot had been forest. The since-cleared land, many think, would rank today as Pouilly-Fuissé if the lines were redrawn. Lucky for us – today it remains a Macon-Fuissé, an overperforming terroir with a less famous name. The wine itself is exquisite – unoaked Chardonnay with precise, linear focus. The nose calls to mind the golden lushness of Pouilly-Fuissé, but without the oak to obscure the gorgeous fruit. The mouth is lithe and precise, with chiseled minerality beneath the apple blossom and apricot notes. Sub-$30 white Burgundy is on its way to becoming a thing of the past. Giroux’s Macon-Fuissé is proof the genre remains.
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The Champenois often mix Pinot Noir juice (skinless…
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The Champenois often mix Pinot Noir juice (skinless thus colorless) into their cuvées of Champagne, and today’s example from Burgundy borrows this idea. Made from a select plot of 100% Pinot Noir grown in the hills above the Côte d’Or, the Maison Picamelot’s “Terroir de Chazot” is an complex and unusual example of terroir-based sparkling wine. Most crémant in Burgundy and Alsace is a blend of several varietals from different locations. For this wine, Picamelot decided to isolate a single grape from a single plot and bottle it unblended – the result is a finer, more intense and earthy sparkling wine, with notes of roasted apples and herbs.
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Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled…
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Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled grapes, the low price of this wine is remarkable. Voigny’s nose and mouth are full of the classic honeysuckle, apricots and peaches, but it’s the acidity that keeps this wine lively. Many sweet wines lack acidity and fall flat – Voigny is bursting with freshness to balance out its sweetness. . There may be no more perfect food-wine pairing than Sauternes with seared foie gras. If your stomach (or conscience) is too sensitive, serve blue cheese as a salty foil instead. Or serve a small glass in place of dessert at the end of the meal. A favorite wine of Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, this iconic wine will round out any cellar with style.
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Neal Martin of Vinous calls the Desvignes wines…
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Neal Martin of Vinous calls the Desvignes wines “excellent,” and “really quite superb.” The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley praises them as “succulent,” “elegant,” and “a decided success.” Kelley named winemaker Gautier Desvignes one of the region’s “Five Emerging Talents to Watch.” The 2018 shows a dark, brooding nose with a nice mixture of red Givry fruit with dark plum and cinnamon. The mouth is ripe and pleasant, with classic punchy tannins underlying perfectly ripe fruit and a gorgeous texture. Given 20 minutes in the glass this opens into a wine that well outperforms its price.
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 In some vintages Prunier’s reds occupy the lightweight…
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 In some vintages Prunier’s reds occupy the lightweight end of the spectrum, requiring some time and a careful food pairing. But in 2018 all they need is a corkscrew and a glass. The Bourgogne rouge 2018 is juicy, punchy, and delicious. From a warm, very ripe year, the Pruniers have crafted a wine bursting with fruit and spunk -- the nose shows beautiful ripe cherries, with notes of licorice and roses. The mouth is fine and chalky, with a croquant (crackling) mouthfeel and elegantly filled in tannins. This isn’t long or subtle or ageworthy -- it’s weeknight red Burgundy full of character and pluck.
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In just over a decade, winemaker Romain Collet…
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In just over a decade, winemaker Romain Collet has turned his family’s reliable if unremarkable domaine into one of the very best sources in Chablis. The wine press has taken notice too; William Kelley finds “a lot to admire here,” and Jasper Morris recently opined that Romain Collet “is moving towards joining the pantheon in Chablis.” Jasper Morris called the 2019 Chablis VV “a highly impressive old vine Chablis.” Drawn from soils with very little clay, this is classic, old-school Chablis, full of dry extract and brilliant freshness. Look for dry citrus notes in the nose with oysters shells, salt spray, and melon. The mouth is long, stony and dry, with chiseled texture and not a shred of oak.
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Thomas’s 2020 white Burgundies are unusually good –…
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Thomas’s 2020 white Burgundies are unusually good – a hot year with low yields concentrated both the fruit and the acidity, producing wines jam-packed with flavor and freshness. All of Thomas’s 2020s deliver far above their classification, and the Bourgogne particularly so. Classy yellow fruit palate pulses with energy and golden fleshy roundness – this is entry-level only in name and price. The nose is soft and elegant, with hazelnut and toasty oak notes melting into lemon and baked apple fruit. The mouth is round and mouthcoating, with delicate freshness acidity balancing a shimmering core. It’s delightful on its own – if you open a bottle while you’re still making dinner, better have a second bottle at the ready.
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  Foulaquier is an excellent source in Pic-St-Loup, at…
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  Foulaquier is an excellent source in Pic-St-Loup, at the northern end of the sprawling Languedoc. Their wines are natural, wild, sometimes funky, and always delicious. They also exhibit a completeness often absent in low-intervention styles -- where some offer a single, interesting, unusual note, Foulaquier’s wines are a harmonious symphony of nature -- perhaps Philip Glass more than Beethoven, but charming nonetheless. Foualquier’s 2019 Orphée is natural wine done to perfection. Foulaquier has added no sulfites to this cuvée, but the nose is sophisticated and clean – we’d put it squarely in the middle of the domaine’s typical natural character. It’s raised for 15 months in sandstone amphora and concrete tanks. The nose shows dark fruit, with violets and tapenade; the mouth is young and intense but with excellent intensity. 
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Vincent Ravaut is a fourth generation winemaker in…
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Vincent Ravaut is a fourth generation winemaker in Ladoix, a town in the less famous stretch between the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. The Ravauts craft delicious, well-priced cuvées (white and red) from humble appellations. The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley calls them “hearty, characterful wines with plenty of stuffing.” Ravaut’s 2020 Bourgogne rouge is intensely red-fruited, with notes of wild cherries and currants. The mouth is packed with flavor – juicy ripe tannins, plum and cassis notes, and 2020’s signature pitch perfect freshness. If you (like we) are constantly in search of an everyday red Burgundy for your cellar, your quest ends today.
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The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration…
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The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration nor the ripeness of the last three scorching years, but instead carry a daintiness and precision that some (including us) find a welcome relief. The nose shows sweet cream butter, with a lovely sucrocité. The mouth is dry and savory, trading the plump, tropical ripeness of recent vintages for a cool precision. Pair this with a plate of shrimp scampi.
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Collet’s village level Chablis always offers excellent value…
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Collet’s village level Chablis always offers excellent value. The 2022 vintage was a success in Chablis as it was in the Côte d’Or, with generous quantity and good ripeness.  As usual, Collet’s Chablis 2022 was vinified and raised in stainless steel. It is round and supple, with attractive lemon fruit and a nice mineral line. There’s a delicious dose of classic Chablisien stoniness alongside the fruit.
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Sebastien Giroux is a terrific young winemaker farming…
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Sebastien Giroux is a terrific young winemaker farming just six hectares of vines in and around Pouilly-Fuissé. Giroux’s disciplined organic winemaking results in extraordinary wines – William Kelley describes them as “supple, pure and charming.” Everything in our first importation sold out in months. From a tiny appellation and a near-perfect Maconnais vintage, the 2020 Pouilly-Loché is a hidden treasure. The nose is clean and refined with notes of white flowers, citrus peel and almond. The mouth is silky and beautiful with perfectly balanced acidity amid notes of yellow fruit, ginger, and tangerine.
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Dupré-Goujon, a collaboration between Guillaume Goujon and Sebastien…
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Dupré-Goujon, a collaboration between Guillaume Goujon and Sebastien Dupré, just down the road from Fred Berne in Côtes de Brouilly. Dupré has a lighter touch than Berne in the cellar, and the wines have less extraction and more finesse La Démarrante 2022 (“the starter”) is a classic, uncomplicated Gamay. Goujon described it as something you’d find in a “bar à vin,” a refreshing, juicy, Beaujolais embodying the region’s jubilant spirit. The 2021 was crisp and lively, but the 2022 has a bit more meat on the bones. It’s fruit-forward and floral with bright red plums in the nose alongside hints of chalk and spice. The mouth is smooth and easy with low tannin and a clean, refreshing finish.
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Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious…
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Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious organic Chenin Blanc from the central Loire Valley. From his small, humble domaine not far from the Loire River, Paget produces a wide range of red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, all full of energy and life. This cuvée is Chenin Blanc from more impressive terroir and deeper soils than Paget's Melodie. This nose is perfumed and beautiful, with notes of yellow apples and pear compote. The mouth is rich, smooth and very long with notes of grapefruit, honey, lime and apricot. It sees a few months in old oak barrels, which add a smoothness and spice to the lush fruit. If a Meursault were made from Chenin Blanc it might taste like this.
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Vincent Boyer is among the small group of…
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Vincent Boyer is among the small group of vignerons who watched the region warming and recognized its potential to elevate the quality of Aligoté, Chardonnay’s poor relation.  Les Aligoteurs, as they are known, have brought Aligoté light years beyond its skinny, acidic past. Vincent raises his Aligoté in older versions of the same barrels he uses for his famous wines from Meursault and Puligny, which gives the wine a roundness and weight that we wouldn’t have thought possible from this modest grape. Burghound praised the 2021’s “exceptionally fresh aromas includ[ing] those of lemon rind, green apple and spice,” and its “very fine persistence on the clean and agreeably dry finish.”
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Sisters Dany and Carole Chastan are third generation…
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Sisters Dany and Carole Chastan are third generation vigneronnes practicing old-school winemaking -- whole clusters, limited sulfur, all wild yeasts. They use no new oak, and neither fine nor filter. Their wines are juicy and deep and very expressive, with gorgeous fruit. Writer Jon Bonné has named them a benchmark producer of the region, “essential defenders of grenache’s good name.” Their just-arrived 2022 Vacqueyras is delicious, and a terrific value. From an appellation just south of Gigondas, this is nearly all Grenache (85%). The nose is extraordinary, bursting with dark wild strawberry fruit, plums, lavender, bay leaf and earth – a splash of Mourvedre adds complexity and backbone. It’s a crowd-pleasing everyday red that will offer immediate pleasure.
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The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge…
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The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it. The French most often use these crèmes for a kir or kir royale — a glass of aligoté or sparkling wine with a splash of crème. It’s a refreshing, delightful cocktail that’s distinct, elegant, and festive.
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St. Estephe is the northernmost of the four…
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St. Estephe is the northernmost of the four communes that make up the heart of the Haut Medoc on Bordeaux’s Left Bank. Its soils have more clay than those of Pauillac to the south, which makes for particularly full-bodied wines with long lives. Fleuron de Liot is tiny — the wine comes from a plot of just one and a half acres. It’s equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The 2018 is dominated by dark cabernet fruit that persists on the palate, with notes of cedar. Surprisingly pleasant at this very early moment, it will show its personality better a few years down the road.
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The Domaine Gautheron hews mostly to the style…
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The Domaine Gautheron hews mostly to the style of classic Chablis. Winemaker Cyril Gautheron’s main focus is on showing his terroir clearly -- when he uses barrels for elevage, he does so with a light touch. The result is wines that show clean, pure, Chardonnay fruit mixed with a stony minerality. The vat-raised 2019 Vaucoupin offers a really excellent blend of fruit, freshness, savory herbs and minerality — it’s every bit a premier cru. This wine disappears from our cellars so quickly we rarely get to see it age, but it cellars beautifully for 2-3 years. More from Gautheron
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St. Estephe is at the northern end of…
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St. Estephe is at the northern end of the Haut Médoc, home to the likes of Chateau Cos d’Estournel and Chateau Montrose. The soils of St. Estephe have more clay than those of Pauillac to the immediate south, and this makes for big wines with a dark color and a long life. The 2019 Fleuron de Liot is intense and delicious, showing chocolate powder, black cherry, tobacco and faint herbs. There’s excellent density and perfectly coated tannins — we think this is a candidate to age nicely for 5-8 years.
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Both Vinous’s Neal Martin and the Wine Advocate’s…
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Both Vinous’s Neal Martin and the Wine Advocate’s William Kelley identified Gautier as a rising star of the Côte Chalonnaise a few years ago, and the results of his work are more impressive every year. Reviewing the excellent 2019s, Kelley reported: “The young Gautier Desvignes continues his rapid ascent at the 11-hectare estate." Desvignes’s Givry blanc “En Chenèves” comes from vines Gautier planted in 2015 – 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Blanc. The wine is crisp and precise: pure Chardonnay fruit with floral overtones. It offers a completeness and complexity that recalls the famous whites of the Côte d’Or to the north, far overperforming its humble origin.
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Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real…
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Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real aging potential and sophistication. Our choice in the 2018 vintage is Saumur-Champigny “Les Dares,” from 55 year-old vines and raised in small oak barrels for 15 months. In this wine a pleasant dose of oak joins the fruit.  It’s very attractive in the mouth: round in the opening but with plenty of supporting structure and very nice length. Fine grained tannins support the notes of cranberry, cassis and silky minerality.
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Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles…
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Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles Frey is a terrific biodynamic source in Dambach-la-Ville in the heart of the Alsace. Their pure, clean wines burst with character and life, and everything from them comes heartily recommended. These vines lie on well-drained granite that lies in a rain shadow, making for particularly intense and concentrated wine.  The 2019 vintage offers an expressive nose with peach notes and a dose of petrol.  In the mouth the fruit is pleasantly round and reasonably full, with very good persistence on the palate. This is notably more serious wine that will hold its own with a wide range of dishes: Asian plates, of course, but also chicken and fish or cheese fondue.
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We generally prefer our Cabernet Franc unoaked and…
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We generally prefer our Cabernet Franc unoaked and pure (see last paragraph), but it’s hard to pass up Sanzay’s Saumur-Champigny rouge “Beauregard." If you like your Loire reds more serious and ageworthy, here’s an exciting find. Today the nose shows toasty oak, but it’s already started to integrate beautifully into the fruit; and we expect the trend to continue. The 50+ year old vines contribute impressive richness, which the Sanzays have handled masterfully -- despite all of the inky, old-vine material, the shape of the wine remains fine and precise (even angular). This is Cabernet Franc at its most Burgundian -- intense, earthy fruit that somehow retains its lift and sophistication. We expect this to improve for another 3-4 years, and wouldn’t be surprised it it was still impressive in 10.
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After a near electrocution more than a decade…
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After a near electrocution more than a decade ago, winemaker Denis Basset decided to pursue his personal passion and began making wine from the family’s long-established vineyards. Basset farms a tiny plot of St. Joseph across the Rhône from his home in Crozes. Denis has named it “Les Abimes de l’Enfer” (the depths of Hell) for its vertiginous slopes that are so hard to work. The 2020 is an excellent year, more serious than the Crozes-Hermitage, with exceptionally fine-grained tannins and an elegant, persistent palate.
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Their 2020 Gigondas is the most exciting cuvée…
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Their 2020 Gigondas is the most exciting cuvée we’ve had from them in recent memory. The nose explodes with a symphony of floral notes, combining vibrant wild cherries, garrigue, blackberry, lavender, and earth. The mouth is long and fresh with excellent persistence. Raynolds gave 93 points, finding “palate-staining red/blue fruit,” with flavors that “deftly blend power and delicacy,” before an “impressively long, floral- and spice-driven finish.” We think it’s a tremendous value, priced in a range to pull out on a chilly weeknight. The perfect accompaniment to a midwinter cold snap.
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The Salomon-Undhof estate dates to 1792, and is…
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The Salomon-Undhof estate dates to 1792, and is currently on its 7th and 8th generation winemakers, father and son Bert and Bert Salomon. Their terraced vines overlooking the Danube have long been an excellent source, with the country’s preeminent wine guide calling them a “figurehead of Austrian wine history.” The Wachtberg's nose is floral and beautiful, with savory/saline elements melting into lush ripe fruit. The Wine Advocate’s reviewer found notes of “blood orange and grapefruit zest,” calling it “clear, round and elegant.” The texture is more concentrated and waxy than the Wieden, and this will easily accompany foods with a bit of kick – think Thai cuisine or sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi.
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Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk…
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Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk freshness, clean minerality, excellent clarity of terroir. Jasper Morris MW is also a fan, writing in early 2023, “I must say that Cyril Gautheron’s wines are climbing up my table of Chablis producers.” Gautheron's old-vine cuvée has long been a favorite of our readers, and the 2021 is a classic. Jasper Morris writes "This is quite substantial for the vintage and with good length," finding "an attractive and currently slightly spicy bouquet. Lots of energy."
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A small valley stretches out from the base…
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A small valley stretches out from the base of Sancerre’s hill up toward Chavignol, home to the much-celebrated goat cheese “Crottin de Chavignol” (itself a wonderful match for Sancerre). Along the valley there is a famous stretch of clay-limestone terroir called the “Monts Damnés.” It’s steep and imposing, and it consistently generates top-rated Sancerre. Domaine de la Garenne has its own special terroir along that same slope, right next to the Monts Damnés: Les Bouffants, whose grapes they vinify separately. Sancerre “Bouffants” 2022 offers a chalky and focused grapefruit nose. There’s more intensity in the fruit and more clearly mineral notes mixed in. The wine persists well on the palate and the finish is longer.
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Located in Pic-St-Loup, among the best terroirs in…
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Located in Pic-St-Loup, among the best terroirs in the Languedoc, Foualquier crafts delicious red blends by employing careful biodynamic viticulture. Their wines channel the region’s wildness into exuberant, fruit-and-earth mixtures that are always complex and always polished. Orphée is a 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah. The 2020 Orphée is very representative of the vintage – bursting with juicy ripe fruit and tremendous freshness. Fans of 2020 Red Burgundies will recognize a throughline running south to the Languedoc in this wine. It’s dark and mouthfilling but at 13.5% alcohol remains fresh and very vibrant. The nose shows cassis and raspberry, low funkiness, and hints of thyme and earth. The mouth is sturdy and delicious with southern tannins dripping in fresh, inky fruit. Pour this to accompany  grilled meats.
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