Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | A small valley stretches out from the base… (+) A small valley stretches out from the base of Sancerre’s hill up toward Chavignol, home to the much-celebrated goat cheese “Crottin de Chavignol” (itself a wonderful match for Sancerre). Along the valley there is a famous stretch of clay-limestone terroir called the “Monts Damnés.” It’s steep and imposing, and it consistently generates top-rated Sancerre.
Domaine de la Garenne has its own special terroir along that same slope, right next to the Monts Damnés: Les Bouffants, whose grapes they vinify separately. Sancerre “Bouffants” 2022 offers a chalky and focused grapefruit nose. There’s more intensity in the fruit and more clearly mineral notes mixed in. The wine persists well on the palate and the finish is longer. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare… (+) Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s.
With 30 grams of residual sugar and excellent minerality, this Demi-Sec is lightly sweet – picture the sweetness in a bowl of ripe berries rather than a slice of cake. The nose is tropical and wonderful, showing quince, pear, and cooked apples. The mouth is smooth, elegant and quite long, with a beautiful velvety texture and almost a hint of tannin. This cuvée probably isn’t sweet enough for dessert – we’d serve it with a spicy Asian dish, sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi, or fish tacos alongside salsa with some authority. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | If you like your Loire reds more serious… (+) If you like your Loire reds more serious and ageworthy, here’s an exciting find. The nose shows smoke and anise, which have both started to integrate beautifully into the fruit; and we expect the trend to continue. The 50+ year old vines contribute impressive richness, which the Sanzay Family have handled masterfully -- despite all of the inky, old-vine material, the shape of the wine remains fine and precise (even angular).
This is Cabernet Franc at its most Burgundian -- intense, earthy fruit that somehow retains its lift and sophistication. We expect this to improve for another 3-4 years, and wouldn’t be surprised it it was still impressive in a decade. Lightweight, carefree Cabernet Franc is useful and delicious, but here’s ample proof the grape can perform on a higher level.
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 | Gilles and Séverin Chollet are father and son… (+) Gilles and Séverin Chollet are father and son vignerons in Pouilly-Fumé crafting approachable, tasty, well-priced Sauvignon blancs. The Chollet style is subtler and less punchy than Michot’s, with more refinement and a lighter touch.
Grown on exclusively limestone soils, there’s more concentration and stoniness here, with notes of citrus and oyster shell. There’s excellent density of fruit, and while the palate is packed with flavor, it’s never heavy or overdone. A pleasant dollop of sucrocité joins the notes of gardenia, roses, and lime. This is less explosive than Garenne and Michot, seeking refinement and subtlety rather than a burst of freshness. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
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 | From their historic domaine in the center of… (+) From their historic domaine in the center of Chambolle-Musigny, the Boursot brothers continue to produce delicious red Burgundies full of character and richness. As they hone their cellar techniques the wines have gained precision and finesse, but they retain the rugged, charming spirit that first brought us to this domaine. Romaric told us their 2022 growing season was just about perfect, with the wines exhibiting classical charm of old-school Burgundy but the intense concentration of modern sunny vintages.
Boursot’s Bourgogne is from vines near Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée, and raised entirely in stainless steel. As you’d expect, it’s pure delightful fruit in the nose, with hints of chalk and spice, but not a whisper of oak. The Boursots have extracted this perfectly, and the tannins are fresh and friendly. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | Our favorite source for these delicious reds is… (+) Our favorite source for these delicious reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, an organic fixture of Saumur-Champginy in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, with their simple Saumur red and old-vine cuvée opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.
This year it was Sanzay’s parcellaire cuvée “Les Dares” that grabbed our attention. Drawn from a single plot of 65+ year old cabernet franc, this is an impressive wine. The nose is very fine and detailed, with a distinct note of honeysuckle over the red apple fruits and violet petals. The mouth is fine grained and concentrated with perfectly balanced tannin and a clean, dry finish. Decant for a half hour and serve with stews or duck or steak. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | Grown high in the hills above Séguret in… (+) Grown high in the hills above Séguret in the Southern Rhône, the Malmont vines struggle though rock-laden nutrient-poor soils, slowing their maturation. The west-facing hillside at 1200 feet of elevation enjoys plentiful breezes throughout the growing season, keeping the grapes cool and healthy. The resulting wines are almost an anomaly in the modern Rhône Valley: organic, delicious southern red blends that barely hit 13.5% alcohol. They show the dark, dense rich fruit for which the region is known, but always with vibrant tension and lift.
Nicolas Haeni's Séguret 2022 is the best he’s made. The extreme heat and drought delivered loads of ripe, intense fruit; Nicolas extracted them minimally and perfectly, and the resulting wine impeccably balances lush fruit with a subtle, sculpted backbone. The nose shows same wild strawberries with hints of gingerbread and pain d’épices too. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for… (+) We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
The Macon-Fuissé “Les Taches” is from high up a hill just outside the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. It’s both vinified and raised in 5-10 year old oak barrels, and while there’s no new oak this cuvée has the added weight and complexity of a more serious wine. The nose is gorgeous and floral; the mouth is rich and smooth and not a bit lacking in acidity. It well overperforms its appellation, and we think of it as a baby Pouilly-Fuissé. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de… (+) Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de la Garenne, owned by members of a leading wine-producing family in the town. The Godon-Reverdys produce superb Sancerre at a variety of price points, and their wines are among the most popular in our portfolio.
Bouffants is a limestone laden terroir, and from it the wine draws its deep mineral intensity. The vines in Bouffants have an average age of 40 years, and so it’s a more serious wine than the regular cuvée, with stony fruit that lingers long on the palate. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | About 20 minutes up the road from the… (+) About 20 minutes up the road from the Domaine Dupré-Goujon, Frederic Berne is another young Beaujolais producer who brings energy and innovation to his winemaking. Like Dupré and Goujon, he is committed to organic and biodynamic viticulture, careful stewardship of his vines and of the biodiversity of his terroir. In style, Berne’s wines are more like classic Beaujolais: dominated by their fruit and offering immediate pleasure.
Régnié is lighter and slightly more rugged, with that crunchy, bonvivant character you often find in the Beaujolais. It’s got more intensity than the Lantigné, but it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The nose is deep red and bursting with cherries and a hint of lavender. The mouth is fresh and concentrated, and just calls for a burger. Neal Martin found “fleshy, fluid tannins and a keen line of acidity,” concluding, “this is a delightful Régnié.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | About 20 minutes up the road from the… (+) About 20 minutes up the road from the Domaine Dupré-Goujon, Frederic Berne is another young Beaujolais producer who brings energy and innovation to his winemaking. Like Dupré and Goujon, he is committed to organic and biodynamic viticulture, careful stewardship of his vines and of the biodiversity of his terroir. In style, Berne’s wines are more like classic Beaujolais: dominated by their fruit and offering immediate pleasure.
Our other suggestion from Berne is a more serious wine, his Morgon “Corcellette” 2023. The fruit is darker here, and the wine has a good deal more body. There’s more going in the nose, with a floral touch joining the fruit, and the wine persists well on the palate. Suckling’s reviewer writes “Ripe and powerful but also elegant, this has excellent mineral freshness and a graceful personality that’s hard not to like.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
| We love Boursot’s style, which combines Chambolle’s graceful… (+) We love Boursot’s style, which combines Chambolle’s graceful essence with a sturdy, characterful core. Their wines get better every year, and no longer fly under the radar of the critics. Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) calls them “delicious, consistently excellent;” Steen Öhman (Winehog) finds them “forward, quite vivid…truly exciting.”
This cuvée doesn’t take itself too seriously. Sure, it’s from vines in Chambolle-Musigny, a town responsible for some of the world’s finest bottles, but Boursot’s is humble, vibrant, and flat out delicious. The wine sees 25% old oak barrels (none new) and shows the faintest touch of earthy wood below the lovely fruit. That subtle Boursot rusticity that draws so many of our customers to this producer is here, but all wrapped up in a friendly, easygoing package. Another winner, and another bargain. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
| The Loire Valley continues to be one of… (+) The Loire Valley continues to be one of the most exciting corners of winemaking in France, where organic viticulture, balanced wines, and affordable prices are the rule rather than the exception. Our source for these reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, a fifth generation organic domaine in Saumur-Champigny in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.Sanzay’s “Beauregard” parcellaire cuvée sees 18 months of elevage and draws concentration from its sand-limestone soils. The nose is beautiful, deep and spiced, with notes of peony and graphite over wild cherry fruit. The mouth is fine grained and concentrated with perfectly balanced tannin and a clean, dry finish. Decant for a half hour and serve with stews or duck or steak. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | This is 80% grenache (some from centenarian vines)… (+) This is 80% grenache (some from centenarian vines), with the rest Mourvèdre and Cinsault. The fruit is clean and very pure, with a gorgeous silky texture and notes of violets, raspberry, garrigue, and spice. Think of it as Grenache that wants to be Syrah.
Tasted blind you’d swear you were in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It beautifully integrates gorgeous grenache fruit with an earthy, mineral line and a judicious dose of Provençal spice. There’s plenty of material here, but it comes wrapped in a fine-grained structure that will make it drinkable from day one. Look for violets, plums, strawberries, and earth — the mouth is rich but impeccably balanced. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $34 | |
| Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de… (+) Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de la Garenne, owned by members of a leading wine-producing family in the town. The Godon-Reverdys produce superb Sancerre at a variety of price points, and their wines are among the most popular in our portfolio.
Bouffants is a limestone laden terroir, and from it the wine draws its deep mineral intensity. The vines in Bouffants have an average age of 40 years, and so it’s a more serious wine than the regular cuvée, with stony fruit that lingers long on the palate. It's a more sophisticated Sancerre, and in the 2023 vintage, the finish is unusually long. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $34 | |
| Many whites from the Southern Rhône Valley fall… (+) Many whites from the Southern Rhône Valley fall into traps of flatness and softness—victims of the scorching summer sun. Nicolas Haeni’s Malmont vineyard is perched high on a hill in a spot that receives consistent cool breezes and chilly nights. These natural advantages make it possible for him to craft whites with freshness and modest alcohol, which also happen to be flat-out delicious. His 2024 pure Roussanne blanc is delightful and clean, fermented in tank and aged in 3–4-year-old oak barrels. The nose is almost Burgundian, but with exotic notes of lychee, pear, and white pepper. A triumph of restraint and subtlety in a region whose whites seldom possess either. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $34 | |
 | Auslese is a late harvest wine made only… (+) Auslese is a late harvest wine made only in years with excellent quality grapes. Dahm's 2005 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese is sweet but beautifully balanced. With 68 grams per liter of residual sugar, it’s far less sweet than Sauternes (80-120 g/L) or Eiswein (160-220 g/L). We think this makes an excellent choice to serve with dessert, rather than in place of it. Look for notes of flowers, apple tart, dried oranges, and a hint of petrol. The mouth is mid-sweet with nice minerality, soft acid, and a clean finish that’s not cloying or heavy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
| Like their neighbor Jacqueline André in Chateauneuf du… (+) Like their neighbor Jacqueline André in Chateauneuf du Pape, sisters Dany and Carol Chastan have run their family domaine for decades according to organic and biodynamic principles. The wines are all beautifully made, with minimal manipulation and no pretense. They practice old school winemaking — 100% whole clusters, ambient yeasts, no fining or filtering.
The Clos du Joncuas 2018 is very impressive. The nose mixes floral notes of violets with strawberry jam. In the mouth there is plenty of body, but the fine-grained tannins stay in the background while the wine coats the palate. There is very good length and an excellent finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
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 | Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles… (+) Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles Frey is a terrific biodynamic source in Dambach-la-Ville in the heart of the Alsace.
If you like fruit for dessert, consider offering it to your guests in liquid form. We have always been fans of sweet wine, and late harvest Alsatian wines offer a particularly nice choice in the category. The 2018 Gewurztraminer “Vendanges Tardive” offers its distinctive spicy fruit in an unctuous form, rich and sweet but with plenty of supporting acidity. A glass of this and a few bites of a shortbread cookie will be all you need for a satisfying finish to a fine meal. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
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 | His newest cuvée is a village level Chablis… (+) His newest cuvée is a village level Chablis called “Valée de Valvan.” It’s from vines that have achieved their years-long EU organic certification, perched on a hillside facing his “Montmains” plot.
Jasper Morris MW found it “generous yet classic…good stuff;” Neal Martin of Vinous writes “palate is well balanced with commendable weight and fruit concentration…focused.” We loved the notes of pear and lemon zest, mixing with oyster shells and limestone.
With a 100% stainless steel elevage and 12.5% alcohol, this is vibrant, pure, exquisite everyday Chablis. Serve with anything and nothing.
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 | Christophe farms plots more than a dozen plots… (+) Christophe farms plots more than a dozen plots around the appellation, blending Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, and a touch of Cinsault. The elevage is 18 months, mostly in foudres and large oak, with some in cement eggs and vats. The resulting wine is accessible, crowd pleasing, and the perfect bottle to welcome fall.
The 2022 vintage is particularly attractive. It offers an expressive nose of youthful fruit with attractive floral notes. It’s rich and supple of course, but with noticeable freshness that prevents heaviness and keeps it juicy. The bigger the glass you have, the more you’ll appreciate the nose. Serve with an autumn stew. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
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When we visited last spring, Negrier told us… (+) '
When we visited last spring, Negrier told us that 2022 was unequivocally the best vintage in the domaine’s 30 year history. He attributes this partly to the very dry growing season, which also featured damaging hail early, at the cost of 40% of the crop. The result: tiny grapes and highly concentrated must.
Indeed, the Fleuron de Liot 2022 – a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon – is utterly delicious and should age very well. Right now this well-balanced wine is inky and dark, showing black cherry and cassis fruit. There is excellent density: the fine tannins coat the mouth and persist on the palate.
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 | Nicolas is a bear of a man who… (+) Nicolas is a bear of a man who has embraced organic farming and biodynamic winemaking with discipline and enthusiasm. Maillet relies on indigenous yeasts for spontaneous fermentation, and never rushes the process, allowing it to proceed for months if the slow fermentation in his cool cuverie so requires.
The Macon-Verzé 2022 is rich and beautiful, with noticeably ample gras and roundness alongside excellent acidity. Neal Martin called it “lovely” and awarded it 90 points, praising its “crisp nose of lemon rind and crushed stone.” He found the palate ”medium bodied with pretty white and yellow fruit.” This wine should stand up well to the more robust flavors of butter-basted fish or roast chicken. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Dennis Basset is a talented organic winemaker crafting… (+) Dennis Basset is a talented organic winemaker crafting beautifully balanced pure-Syrah wines that require far less cellaring to reach maturity than the famous appellations of the Northern Rhône. Basset’s wines improve for years, but they’re delicious just about from the moment the arrive.
Denis farms just over a hectare of old vines in St-Joseph, which produce rich, intense, very elegant syrah. The nose is deep and dark with notes of cloves, violets, and intense black pepper; the mouth is full and inky but with excellent tension and notes of roasted meat and licorice. At 13.5% alcohol this is classic Northern Rhône Syrah – dark and brooding but with tremendous lift and elegance. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | For decades our source here has been the… (+) For decades our source here has been the Domaine Gérard Thomas, a traditional, family run white Burgundy source with a small collection of excellent terroirs. Their St-Aubins are wonderful, and extremely well-priced, but the best value is the humble Bourgogne blanc. And in 2023, a vintage with terrific ripeness and beautiful acidity, Thomas’s wines shine.
Thomas’s 2023 Bourgogne Côte d’Or is fresh and delightful – the nose shows meyer lemon and stones, and the mouth is a balance between ripe fruit and mouthwatering freshness. A muted note of wood joins the fruit, and the weight is perfect, with length that tastes more like a village-level wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
Chablis “Cuvée Emeraude” 2023 is purely in the classic style: entirely vat-raised, steely, and bursting with energy — the sort of wine that inspired the classic pairing of Chablis with oysters. Its fruit is pure, clean lemon and lime. The Kimmeridgian limestone soils in which the 30-40 year old vines grow deliver a mineral line to complement the fruit and add a finish of mouth watering salinity. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
Gautheron’s Chablis “Vieilles Vignes” 2023 offers smoother edges. It comes from old vines, and it’s raised two-thirds in stainless steel and one-third in barrels. This wine is made to be slightly richer and rounder than their Emeraude cuvée, with a discreet hint of oak that rounds out the minerality without obscuring it. It succeeds beautifully, delivering an elegant wine that also has good supporting acidity. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Sébastien Dupré and Guillaume Goujon’s superb cuvées of… (+) Sébastien Dupré and Guillaume Goujon’s superb cuvées of Beaujolais from the 2022 vintage are like no other Beaujolais you have tasted, unless you were lucky enough to taste the same wines from 2020. They offer a beautiful combination of density, complexity and persistence that more resembles the reds of the Côte d’Or more than any other wines made from Gamay. The growing season 2022 was exceptionally hot and dry, but their vines did not suffer excessive heat stress, and they were able to bring in grapes with full phenolic ripeness but potential alcohol in the range of only 12.5% to 13%.
Cuvée 6-3-1 is a blend of their three plots, readily drinkable but deceptively sophisticated. We loved its expressive nose of dark, ripe fruit – violets and cassis, with a croquant (crackling) texture. Kenna Wells, the Wine Advocate’s reviewer, found “a packed palate with notes of stewed cherries complemented by spice, white pepper, and charred wood.” James Suckling praised its “striking elegance” and “fine tannins,” and we agree with the critics that the wine is far more than a summer sipper. It will grace your table all year round. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Beaujolais blanc is offered by some but not… (+) Beaujolais blanc is offered by some but not all winemakers in the region. Dupré-Goujon bought some Chardonnay vines in 2019, and in the last few years has made a beaujolais blanc that is strikingly good. Raised half in tank and half in wood, the Clos des Muriers 2023 has beautiful balance: just a touch of oak, good freshness and an attractive weight. Suckling’s reviewer effuses: “Not only is this the first great chardonnay from Beaujolais we’ve encountered, but it is also an incredibly joyful expression of the grape, brimming with stone-fruit, lemon-curd and white-flower aromas. The super-elegant, medium-bodied palate has breathtaking purity and precision. Great energy in the very long, chalky finish.”
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 | Florence Cartier’s flagship wine is of course from… (+) Florence Cartier’s flagship wine is of course from Gigondas, home to her family domaine and most of their vines. Her 2021 Gigondas is a story of both vintage and varietal – as in the north, the growing season was cooler and wetter than is typical, and there’s more lift and delicacy than usual in this cuvée. The rainy spring also meant a poor flowering for grenache and syrah, and so Mouvrèdre plays an unusually central role in this year’s blend, adding charming, rugged savory notes of garrigue and leather to the lush fruit. With less extraction it’s also more pleasant young, and we expect this to be delightful from the start. Look for notes of cassis, blackberry and dried roses, and enjoy the delicacy of a low-alcohol (13.5%) southern Rhône red. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | The Boursot estate has been handed down over… (+) The Boursot estate has been handed down over 500 years in the tiny town of Chambolle-Musigny. The current winemakers, brothers Romaric and Romuald, have transformed the humble property into an exciting source for well-priced Burgundies. Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) calls them “delicious, consistently excellent;” Steen Öhman (Winehog) finds them “forward, quite vivid…truly exciting.”
We’ve never offered Boursot’s white before, but this year’s was too good to pass up. From vines in Chambolle near the RN-74, this is beautiful everyday white Burgundy. The oak treatment is extremely light and well integrated, and the wine is mostly a fruit-and-stone play. The nose shows clean lemon fruit with a hint of floral perfume and dry grape skin. The mouth is pretty, fresh, middleweight and pretty. A perfect aperitif white Burgundy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Ravaut's wines used to require extended maceration to… (+) Ravaut's wines used to require extended maceration to draw color and flavor from grapes, but now the crop arrives at harvest with enough concentration to ferment more gently. The resulting wines are smoother, beautifully balanced, and simply delicious young. William Kelly of the Wine Advocate calls them “hearty, characterful wines,” with “plenty to admire.”
The Ravaut humble Bourgogne Côte d’Or Rouge is gorgeous this year, a useful entry-level wine that provides excellent value. The nose is dark and sappy with notes of plum and wild cherries. The mouth is inky and smooth, and the tannins are perfectly integrated. This will require no patience, and you won’t be able to keep your hands off it anyway. A perfect, easygoing weeknight red Burgundy.
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 | Dany and Carol Chastan make delicious wines in… (+) Dany and Carol Chastan make delicious wines in Gigondas, a near neighbor and vinous cousin of Chateauneuf du Pape. Their winemaking has always been organic, with biodynamic elements, and their effort is always to faithfully render the wine that the vintage has produced. Beard Award winning author Jon Bonné singled them out for praise in his recent book “The New French Wine,” naming them a benchmark producer of the region and “essential defenders of grenache’s good name.”
The 2023 shows characteristic wild strawberries dominate the aromatic profile, and the palate is round and well balanced, with a bit of salinity joining the delightful ripe fruit. There is very good length in the mouth. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
 | Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious… (+) Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious Chenin Blanc from his organically farmed vineyard in the central Loire Valley. We visited this spring, and were reminded of just how lush this region is, deserving of its moniker “Le Jardin de France.” Paget’s wines are similarly lush – round and rich with excellent acidity and beautiful depth.
Nicolas’s Chinon Blanc “Passeur du Terroir” from 2022. The warm vintage provided ample ripeness, and this wine is round, luxurious and opulent. Paget raised it in large 500L barrels, and there’s a faint note of spice alongside the yellow pear fruit. A pleasant savory grape-skin minerality joins the lush fruit to give mouthwatering texture almost reminiscent of Chablis. Fans of rich white Burgundy – think Meursault or Pouilly-Fuissé – will enjoy the depth and friendly texture here. Pair this with autumn foods – a lobster bisque, a bouillabaisse, a plate of raclette. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $35 | |
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 | The 2022 red Burgundies are deep and concentrated… (+) The 2022 red Burgundies are deep and concentrated, a product of the hottest and driest year on record. And yet they are astonishingly well balanced and sport fine detail and low alcohol. It’s a look (perhaps) at the Burgundy of the future: ripe, lush fruit and dark color, but with delicate balance and lovely tension.
Gautier’s village-level 2022 Givry “Champ la Dame” is a punchy, characterful, flat out delicious red Burgundy. It bursts with dark Pinot fruit, friendly tannins, and a sturdy core. This wouldn’t be out of place in the Côte d’Or, and with a humble appellation like Givry on the label, it provides tremendous value. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $36 | |
 | Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic… (+) Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
Gros’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines just outside his hometown. It’s middleweight and pretty, with red currants and violets in the nose; the mouth has mild tannins and a pleasant earthy and floral finish. This year Burghound found “good vibrancy and detail,” and Neal Martin called it “quite fleshy and dense.” It drinks effortlessly from the start, and however much we set aside for ourselves, we always wish it were more. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $36 | |
 | Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker… (+) Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker making superb wines of understatement and precision. If some Maconnais whites can verge into overripeness in warm years, Sebastien’s are entirely devoid of heaviness. His careful winemaking – low sulfur, minimal oak, extremely long elevage – results in minimalist wines of precision and grace. Think Thomas Morey Puligny an hour south.
The Pouilly-Loché “Au Bucher” is from 2021, a cool vintage that lends itself well to Sebastien’s understated style. This comes from 75 year old vines, and though it’s a less well-known terroir than Pouilly-Fuissé, the old vines and careful oaking mean this well overperforms its appellation. Look for green apples and white flowers, with intensely channeled fruit and a clean stony finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $36 | |
| Lots of Chateauneuf-du-Pape is built for the long… (+) Lots of Chateauneuf-du-Pape is built for the long haul, and somewhat inaccessible young – not Mestre’s. It’s middleweight and delicious with gorgeous young fruit and friendly tannins. It ages for 5-8 years with ease, but drinks well from the moment it is in the bottle. The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is terrific – 50% grenache, 25% mourvèdre, 20% syrah, and 5% cinsault. The nose is focused and beautiful, with lovely deep sappy fruit bursting from the glass.
Grenache makes up only half this wine, but it’s the star of the show this year – luxurious red fruit of wild cherries, raspberries and hints of provencal thyme combine to make an explosive and seductive palate.
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| One of our original sources here is Nicolas… (+) One of our original sources here is Nicolas Maillet, an energetic, friendly winemaker bursting with enthusiasm for his craft. Jasper Morris MW calls Maillet “an excellent winemaker;” William Kelley calls his wines “elegantly textural and enveloping...pure and precise” with “immediate charm.” Maillet relies on indigenous yeasts for spontaneous fermentation, and never rushes the process, allowing it to proceed for months if the slow fermentation in his cool cuverie so requires.
Maillet's 2023 Macon-Verzé is magnificent. It's lush and plump from the hot growing season, but shot through with energy and tension. Neal Martin of Vinous calls it "a worthy follow-up to the delicious '22," and we agree. The nose shows an exquisite array of beeswax, pineapple, and lemon verbena; the mouth is vibrant and mouthfilling, with notes of apricot, tangerine, green tea, and a brisk freshness. Serve on its own as a delicious and dynamic aperitif. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $36 | |
 | Charles Frey (formerly Mersiol) is a terrific Demeter-certified… (+) Charles Frey (formerly Mersiol) is a terrific Demeter-certified biodynamic source in Alsace. The family has made wine in Dambach-la-Ville since 1709, and today makes excellent wines of many colors. The Frey Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardive (late harvest) 2017 offers a beautiful floral bouquet of apricot, peach, and mandarin orange.
In the mouth it is sweet, but the sugar levels are on the order of fifty grams — about half the level of many other dessert wines. What is more, the underlying acidity prevents any cloying sweetness. Get this out at the end of a fine meal and it will surprise and delight your guests. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $38 | |
 | Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles… (+) Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles Frey is a terrific biodynamic source in Dambach-la-Ville in the heart of the Alsace. Their pure, clean wines burst with character and life, and everything from them comes heartily recommended.
These vines lie on well-drained granite that lies in a rain shadow, making for particularly intense and concentrated wine. The 2019 vintage offers an expressive nose with peach notes and a dose of petrol. In the mouth the fruit is pleasantly round and reasonably full, with very good persistence on the palate. This is notably more serious wine that will hold its own with a wide range of dishes: Asian plates, of course, but also chicken and fish or cheese fondue. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $38 | |
 | The Marsanne varietal produces rich, exotic, tropical notes… (+) The Marsanne varietal produces rich, exotic, tropical notes of pears and peaches; the Roussanne brings freshness, savoriness, and a crisp minerality to the blend. Together they are an expressive, generous, captivating combination.
The first thing we look for in a white Rhône blend is freshness – without it the wines easily slip into flatness – and indeed today’s wine is expertly balanced. The nose is bright and clean with citrus, pear, melon, and no toast. The palate is juicy and mouthwatering, with orchard fruit, straw and nectarine.
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