Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of… (+) Poggerino, in Radda in Chianti, is one of the reference-point estates for pure, terroir-driven Sangiovese. Under Piero Lanza, the domaine has built a decades-long reputation for meticulous vineyard work and restrained, traditional winemaking, producing wines that emphasize clarity, balance, and site expression. Antonio Galloni has called them “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy.”Finally, the 2022 Chianti Classico Riserva “Bugialla” is another resounding success, which Galloni called “gorgeous” and “superb.” He found that “black cherry, new leather, spice, menthol and licorice fill out the layers effortlessly.” While it is a powerful wine with the structure to stand up to the robust flavors of game or lamb, it also shows plenty of finesse. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | The soils of this region are the same… (+) The soils of this region are the same Kimmeridgian mixture as nearby Chablis — a blend of chalk, limestone, and clay, rather than the chalk-limestone of the rest of Champagne. The addition of clay gives the wines a broader mouthfeel than those from northern Champagne, and we found all four Robin wines delightfully rich on the palate.
Cuvée Topaze is blanc de blancs (100% chardonnay): refined, elegant, and subtle; the nose is fresh and clean with notes of lemon, chalk, and green apple. The mouth beautifully blends citrus and earth — it calls to mind a white Burgundy with bubbles. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost… (+) The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost universally successful. The tannins are compact and delicious, with an unusual succulence that makes them delightful even young. The fruits are both perfectly ripe and beautifully balanced, indicating a long life ahead.
Ravaut’s 2019 Côte de Nuits-Villages is among our most popular everyday red Burgundies. Today we’re suggesting its more sophisticated and classier cousin: the Ladoix 1er cru “Bois Roussot.” It’s bursting with strawberries and briary, woodsy berries in the nose; the mouth is smooth and fine-grained, with excellent density and a clean, modern finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | The Chastan family has been making wine in… (+) The Chastan family has been making wine in the same style for two generations. They were among the earliest in the region to farm organically (they were certified in 1980!), and their winemaking is simple and straightforward. Vinification for all the wines is cement vats, followed by an elevage in either vats or neutral oak foudres. The wines are neither fined nor filtered.
The Clos du Joncuas Gigondas 2020 is an easy, early-drinking vintage. It is silky smooth and rich, with dense, sweet fruit and notes of allspice. Though velvety, there is good underlying structure and a bit of earthiness in the finish. A dose of salinity balances the lush fruit, making this a delightful young wine we think will drink well for several years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.
Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2020 highlights the virtue of the best 2020s: though the vintage is a very ripe one, the dryness left enough acidity in the grapes to keep the wines fresh and vibrant. Thus the wines are well balanced and should age beautifully. Allen Meadows (“Burghound”) praised the Gravières 2020 for its “intense and elegant floral-suffused nose,” finding “black cherry liqueur, soft spice, and earth.” It’s 40% whole cluster fermentation this year, giving excellent definition to the lush fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
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 | Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85%… (+) Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85% raised in barrel (40% new) and the rest in amphora, with 25% whole cluster. This recipe makes for a serious red Burgundy, and the wine has the presence and texture of a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin. The nose is dark and sappy with impressively complex layers of spice, blackberry, cherry and stones. The mouth is rich and dense but with exceptional tension and freshness – it’s a dynamic wine in a way that much sub-$50 red Burgundy is not.
Neal Martin of Vinous gave it 91 points, finding a “bouquet of crushed strawberry, cranberry and lightly pressed flower.” In the mouth he noted “fine tannins, well balanced and refined,” concluding “this is another delicious Givry from Nicolas Ragot.”
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 | Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from… (+) Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.
Not long ago Sofie purchased the Clos Sous le Chateau, a small monopole in St. Romain, which is perched at the very top of the valley that runs west from Meursault. The 2023 vintage of this wine is excellent, with its elevation providing fine definition and energy. The nose has the precision of a Puligny, and in the mouth there is good concentration. Its persistence on the palate signals a wine that will mature gracefully. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre”… (+) Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre” provides terrific value. It’s one of his most impressive cuvées – regal, refined, complex and vibrant. He’s got exceptional terroir, and he knows how to use it. There’s everything at once – richness, depth, stoniness, length, and polish.
Jasper Morris found that “white clay with plenty of stones lend it some Left Bank minerality, but the superb exposure of the hillside allows the Right Bank richness of fruit to dominate.” We think Collet’s 2023 Montée de Tonnerre shows the completeness for which the vineyard is famous. Serve this with a fine dish from the sea – lobster, scallops, branzino, dover sole, swordfish, etc. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first… (+) Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first we offer of the vintage, and as usual it’s an excellent place to start. They’re decidedly old-school in texture, ranging from 11.5% to 12% in alcohol, and sporting a refined daintiness that’s impossible to resist. These wines will arrive as winter turns to spring, and we expect them to suit the warmer weather season perfectly.Thomas’s St-Aubin is a blend of several village level plots, a noticeable step up in complexity. The nose shows gardenia, hints of oak, and white pepper. The mouth is lovely, with a deep savory palate of grapeskin and lemon zest. At 12% alcohol it’s light on its feet, but with gorgeous fruit and a lovely vibrant texture. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Château Larrieu-Terrefort is sourced through the classic Bordeaux… (+) Château Larrieu-Terrefort is sourced through the classic Bordeaux négociant model, representing a traditional expression of Margaux from the Left Bank.This 2020 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, offering a classic Left-Bank profile. The excellent vintage brings signature elegance and precision along with terrific density and a velvety smooth mouthfeel. The nose shows sweet spice and oak, while the mouth is fine and long with a delicate balance and very long finish. This will benefit from a few hours in a carafe or a year or two in bottle, but should be terrific either way. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Join us on Thursday nights for the return… (+) Join us on Thursday nights for the return of in-person tastings at the Depot this fall!
Thursday, September 14, 6:30pm: Chablis & the Maconnais
Explore white Burgundies from outside the Côte d'Or.
Gautheron Chablis 1er Montmains 2021
Collet Chablis 1er Vaillons 2021
Collet Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2021
Giroux Pouilly-Fuissé VV 2020
Maillet Pouilly-Fuissé 2020
Forces-Telluriques Viré-Clessé 2020
Any purchases of 3+ bottles will be credited back the $50 tasting fee. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $50 | |
 | One of our favorites recent second wine discoveries… (+) One of our favorites recent second wine discoveries is the Murmure du Larcis Ducasse, a St-Emilion Grand Cru. Chateau Larcis Ducasse is a well known estate whose flagship label “flirts with perfection” in good vintages (Jeb Dunnuck). If you’re in need of a serious, mature, sub-$60 Bordeaux, look no further.
James Suckling gave the 2018 Murmure a 95, just two points behind the flagship label that year, finding it “elegant…juicy, and fleshy texture…savory…such balance.” This wine stole the show at our tasting in January, and we’re delighted it’s finally arrived. Among a crowded field of other St-Emilions, this showed a beautiful floral nose with violets and plum, and lush, very fresh fruit. The mouth is sturdy and rich, and every tannin is coated in gorgeous ripe fruit. Drink with steak.
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 | Chateau Cantemerle is an extremely old property (dating… (+) Chateau Cantemerle is an extremely old property (dating back to the 12th century), recognized as a “fifth growth” in the 1855 classification. This is the most serious of the three, with a gorgeous, deep, outstanding nose showing wild cherries, tobacco, and just a hint of spice. The mouth is sturdy and extremely well built, with tremendous concentration and a long impeccably balanced finish. There’s dark, rich fruit, solid structure, and impressive freshness. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $52 | |
 | The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes… (+) The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes of dark fruits and spice. They are rich without being heavy – only 13% alcohol – and there’s an attractive liveliness often lacking in Syrah from the Southern Hemisphere. Bonnefond wines will age with no trouble for ten or more years.
Their Côte Rôtie shows plum, roasted meats and black pepper; the mouth is spiced and dense, showing olives and dark chocolate, and a hint of smoke. The inky tannins here are firm but not harsh, and with a few hours in a carafe this is a lovely glass of wine. We wouldn’t be the first to volunteer to work the vertigo-inducing “fields” of Bonnefond’s vineyards, but we’re certainly glad someone does. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge… (+) The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it.
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 | Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux… (+) Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux, comes from the area surrounding Reims. But Robin is in the increasingly popular Côte des Bar, a southern satellite subregion of Champagne about half way between Reims and Dijon.
The Secret de Sorbée is fermented partially in barrel and left on the lees for over two years. The resulting wine is toasty and fresh with lovely apple fruit and floral notes. The Guide Hachette awarded a star, and called it “at once round and tart,” with a “pleasant, intense fruit expression.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the… (+) “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the 2022 red Burgundies; “very good wines and plenty of them.” William Kelley calls them “succulent, suave and charming”, “offering excellence in both colors and in a wide variety of styles.” Roger Belland's reds are entirely classic, with ripe modern fruit but traditional, low-alcohol textures.
Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Beauregard” is delicious in this vintage. After a few minutes in the glass, its sunny ripe fruit begins to emerge. In the mouth it is particularly pleasant, fresh enough but not brisk, and round but not too mouth filling. The combination gives it an elegant feel, with ripe tannins providing support at the back end. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines… (+) Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines are Demeter certified, the highest organic classification. In the bottle this translates to superb purity and clarity, with careful elevage and excellent balance. As William Kelley puts it, “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
Pouilly-Fuissé 1er cru “Vignes Blanche” is rich, smooth, and vibrant, with unusual power and depth. Even here Vessigaud eschews new oak, opting for 5-year-old demi-muids (large 600L barrels) for a year. He’s right, of course – the wine wants for nothing, showing notes of brioche, pear, and chalk with a long, sleek, shimmering finish. “This is achingly good – simply excellent wine,” writes critic Bill Nanson. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines… (+) Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines “gorgeous…all showing the natural richness of Ambonnay,” and writing they “have been favorites of mine for years, because of their quality, personality, and exceedingly fair prices.” Ambonnay is known as Pinot Noir country, where extra clay and warm southern exposure lend themselves well to the red grape.
Courtier’s base “Cuvée Tradition” is simply exquisite grower Champagne at a remarkable price. It’s super expressive exploding from the glass with notes of spring flowers, pear, raspberries, herbs and brioche. At 6g dosage and a blend of 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay it’s dry but full of fruit, and the texture is at once lush and crisp. This is accessible, affordable, downright tasty Champagne – full of character, flavor, and life. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | “Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis… (+) “Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis Basset family’s horticultural roots. It comes from 50 year-old Syrah vines, which give exceptional depth and intensity. It’s noticeably more concentrated and intense than Étincelle, shows a bit more new oak, and offers more complexity — a bit of black olive and smokiness along with the fruit. It can be cellared for up to eight or ten years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
 | Lespault-Martillac’s 2016 blanc is a blend of 70% Sauvignon… (+) Lespault-Martillac’s 2016 blanc is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon – it’s barrel fermented and then given a 10 month elevage. The nose is dry, floral, and expressive with notes of citrus, lavender, lime zest and candle wax. The mouth is simply beautiful – fully mature with terrific tension and chalky minerality amid the beautiful golden pear fruit. The Wine Advocate’s reviewer gave 92 points, finding “oodles of freshness and plenty of pear-laced flavor;” Antonio Galloni in Vinous called it “one of the more pleasant wines” of the vintage. We put this in the same class as a well aged white Burgundy, maybe from Puligny or St-Aubin – serve with a fine meal on a weekend afternoon.
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 | Boursot’s newest cuvée is their Savigny-les-Beaune, a village that… (+) Boursot’s newest cuvée is their Savigny-les-Beaune, a village that comes with less fame and a significant discount from the better known appellations. Savigny’s terroir naturally tends toward linear wines with tension and minerals, notes that play beautifully in a year of heat and drought. The Boursots use 25% amphora and 25% oak for this cuvée, and the result is a pleasant, fresh, extremely drinkable wine. The nose shows cherries and limestone, the mouth is floral and pleasant, with delicate tannins amid the deep inky fruit. Bill Nanson of the “Burgundy Report” writes “wide and perfumed…you might guess Chambolle…simply excellent.” Serve this with duck confit or a creamy chicken, and watch the wine slice effortlessly through the fat. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
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 | Justine Clerget now runs her tiny family estate… (+) Justine Clerget now runs her tiny family estate in Vougeot. Since her arrival she’s introduced organic viticulture, refined extraction, and added some whole cluster fermentation. The resulting wines are superb modern Burgundies, full and long with excellent detail and perfect balance. If this is what the Burgundy of the future tastes like, sign us up.
Bourgogne 2023, JM 88-89:"Bright mid ruby with a pleasing fresh red fruit. Old vines did not yield too much. Very lively on the palate, with a deep almost lush cherry and raspberry fruit with a well-disciplined finish. Delicious." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
| At the Domaine Roger Belland, the domaine is… (+) At the Domaine Roger Belland, the domaine is located in Santenay, a town more known for its reds than its whites, but with a flagship monopole in Chassagne-Montrachet’s Morgeot sector, the Clos Pitois. We have chosen the wines that lead the pack here, from both red and white vineyards across the southern Côte d’Or.Gravières Premier Cru 2024 is often called the town’s best vineyard. The nose is subtler and more complex than the Maranges, with fruit that recalls wild strawberries more than blackcurrants. The Domaine chose to use 40% whole clusters, yielding freshness and lifted aromatics. It’s a more elegant profile that will offer a dry, refined take on the vintage, and promises a longer life than the Maranges. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
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| Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond’s 2016s “as graceful… (+) Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond’s 2016s “as graceful a group of wines as I’ve ever sampled.” And graceful is an apt word -- they are long and silky, with beautiful tension and gorgeous texture.
The 2016 Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” shows notes of anise, plum jam, and cloves. Vinous awarded 92 points, finding “cassis and violet,” “an energizing jolt of cracked pepper,” and calling it “sappy, smooth and long.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Josh Raynolds (91-93 points) found the regular cuvée… (+) Josh Raynolds (91-93 points) found the regular cuvée “sweet, seamless, and focused on the palate, where a smoky mineral quality sharpens primary black/blue fruit liqueur flavors.” He is right.
We found it richer than the 2016, but the weight of the wine is enormously attractive; it’s in the heart of the sweet spot between too much extraction and too little. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single… (+) Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single most impressive set of bottlings I have had here since I started annual visits in 2005.”
The Bonnefonds’ regular cuvée of Côte Rôtie, “Colline de Couzou,” is no ordinary entry level wine. Raynolds called it “awfully impressive” and “distinctly suave,” awarding it 93 points. We found the dark, ripe fruit just lovely, with added notes of pepper, minerals, and maybe a touch of iodine. The 2018 vintage of this wine blew us away; we’d compare it to the Rochins cuvée in a less favorable year. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Condrieu is the exotic white wine from Viognier… (+) Condrieu is the exotic white wine from Viognier, a grape once unknown outside the region, but now grown widely around the world. Nowhere else does it make a wine to rival those of Condrieu. These wines are all about their magical aromas, and should be served in your largest balloon glasses. Unlike other high-end wines, they’re not for long keeping, and you should enjoy your Condrieu in the five years after the harvest. De Boisseyt’s Condrieu “Carbonne” 2020 is a classic example of the wine, with ripe aromas of exotic fruit, including pineapple, apricot and aromas of white peach. Serve this wine outdoors on a soft summer night, or as an aperitif beside a December fire in your fireplace (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Wine writer Josh Raynolds recently wrote of Goubert… (+) Wine writer Josh Raynolds recently wrote of Goubert, “the wines today show a good deal of polish, in a positive way, with just the right degree of earthiness and grip to remind of their origins.” Winemaking at the domaine is in sure hands these days as Florence Cartier has progressively taken over from her father as principal winemaker.
It’s a blend of equal parts Grenache and Syrah, chosen from the best patches of vines. With it the Cartiers indulged their fondness for red Burgundy by raising the wine in small oak barrels, half of them new, for two years. This makes a big wine that generally needs time to knit together, but the results are complex and ageworthy, and easily rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines… (+) Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines “gorgeous…all showing the natural richness of Ambonnay,” and writing they “have been favorites of mine for years, because of their quality, personality, and exceedingly fair prices.”
Their Blanc de Blancs is extra brut (5g dosage) and unusual for the town (Ambonnay), combining the richness from the soils with the energy of Chardonnay. Galloni writes that this cuvée “remains one of the hidden gems in Champagne.” As you’d expect this is finer than Coutier's Tradition, longer and steely with less fruit and more tension. The nose shows notes of chalk, magnolia, lemon zest and stones, with a clear, chalky texture that’s precise and very elegant. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule… (+) Fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.” Their old vines produce intense, teeth-staining Syrah, with extraordinary depth but remarkable freshness.
Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2022 is terrific, a symphony of spice and deep black fruit. At 13% alcohol it’s sunny and ripe without an ounce of heaviness, the calling card of top Northern Rhône reds. The nose is deep and perfumed with notes of dark cherry, spices, cocoa and cured meats. The mouth is dark and rich but with sturdy tannin and a pleasant savory element. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Wine writer Rajat Parr describes St. Aubin as… (+) Wine writer Rajat Parr describes St. Aubin as the “insider’s white Burgundy.” Wedged in a valley between Chassagne and Puligny, this town produces white Burgundy with hints of Montrachet’s golden richness, but a less stratospheric price tag. St-Aubin has become rarer and pricier like everything else in Burgundy, but it’s still far more affordable than its famous neighbors.
At the western edge of the St. Aubin appellation lies a plot named “Murgers des Dents de Chiens.” Perched just up the hill from Montrachet itself, this St. Aubin 1er cru is a remarkable value. It’s everything that white Burgundy should be – rich, refreshing, complex, and elegant. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for… (+) We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
Pouilly-Fuissé 1er cru “Les Reisses” is from a marl and limestone plot called “Vers Pouilly,” also in the village of Fuissé. The vines here are between 60 and 80 years old — about twice as old as those in “Vignes Blanches.” Such vines make a lot of millerandage (grapes of various sizes that have a high skin-to-juice ratio), which produces concentrated wine of greater power and length. Elevage here is leisurely, with 12 months in 5 year old demi-muids (600L barrels) followed by six months in stainless steel. Persistence on the palate is particularly noteworthy in “Les Reisses” 2023, and its prominent mineral line carries through to the end. This is a focused and precise wine, more reminiscent of a Puligny-Montrachet than a Chassagne-Montrachet. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
Fourchaume is a right bank vineyard just north of the Grand Crus. It's south and west facing, giving it plentiful sun and lots of ripeness. Combine this with the extremely stony Kimmeridgienne soils, and you've got a wine that's essentially a grand cru in everything but name. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Cornas is pure Syrah like the rest of… (+) Cornas is pure Syrah like the rest of the Northern Rhône, but the feel is of something sunnier from further South. Today fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.”
Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2023 is terrific, and follows a similar pattern to the 2023 red Burgundies: it bears a strong resemblance to the 2022s, but with more lift and energy. Once upon a time a tasting of young Cornas would be considered work, and you might have to brush your teeth afterwards – but not today. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker… (+) Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker making superb wines of understatement and precision. If some Maconnais whites can verge into overripeness in warm years, Sebastien’s are entirely devoid of heaviness. His careful winemaking – low sulfur, minimal oak, extremely long elevage – results in minimalist wines of precision and grace. Think Thomas Morey Puligny an hour south.
Sebastien crafts this magnificent cuvée from a tiny ⅕ hectare plot . The nose is deep and floral with notes of magnolia and gardenia; the mouth is extremely long, with a vigorous attack of rich fleshy fruit and a long, clean, finely channeled finish. We’d put this in a prize fight against lots of far fancier wine from the Côte de Beaune. There’s not much of it, but it’s simply beautiful stuff. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| The 2023 vintage produced wines of tremendous concentration… (+) The 2023 vintage produced wines of tremendous concentration, and the Domaine Boursot’s reds are beautiful, fresh, and packed with flavor. Their 2023 Savigny-les-Beaune perfectly combines the crisp delicacy of the terroir with the rich intensity of the vintage. The nose shows wild cherries, cassis, and toast. The mouth is a punch blend of dark modern fruit with chalky precision. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Perched at the base of the hill of… (+) Perched at the base of the hill of Corton, the tiny town of Ladoix lies at the junction between the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. It’s here that the Ravaut family has made wine for generations, and today Vincent Ravaut and his sons are making wines that are truly exciting. They’re certified EU organic, have dialed back oak, have stopped filtering, and have abandoned pigeage to extract their reds.Ravaut’s village level Ladoix Bois Roussot has always been one of our favorite cuvées here and 2023 is right in line with expectations. This wine shows the chiseled stony character for which the appellation is known. The nose is deep and woodsy with strawberry and loads of spice; the mouth texture is terrific, a combination of sweet red fruit and stones. It’s more like the Côte de Nuits-Villages in profile, and again offers excellent value under $50/bot. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and… (+) Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and an excellent entree to the collection. A blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this wine has the complexity and depth to match the finest bottles from Burgundy or Bordeaux. This year’s Traditionnel contains wine mostly from 2012, and we found it even better than last year’s. The nose shows plum and lemon and buttered biscuits; the mouth is dry, elegant, and smooth, with notes of apple and toast. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | |
| 2019 was the fifth in a string of… (+) 2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.”
The regular cuvée of Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” offers a beautiful nose of sweet fruit mixed with aromas of violets and smoke. It is just lovely in the mouth, with plenty of body. Raynolds called it “hefty and broad yet lively as well, finishing with well-judged tannins and strong, floral-driven persistence.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | |
 | Jacqueline André's 2019 is a triumph. There are… (+) Jacqueline André's 2019 is a triumph. There are delicious dark fruits of blackberry and cassis. The wine is dense and rich, with good structure and lots of intensity – “construit” (“built”) she called it. There is excellent complexity too — tiny notes of anise, lavender, thyme, raspberries and more. More than perhaps any other in our portfolio, this wine embodies the term “layers.” And as always, though it is rich, the wine has plenty of freshness. As with all her vintages, we anticipate much pleasure as we watch the 2019 evolve over what will certainly be a long and interesting life.
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 | France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east… (+) France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east of Burgundy, but in winemaking terms it’s a world away. The Jura is best known for its light reds and idiosyncratic whites. Our tiny producer here is the Domaine Hervé Ligier.
Made from Savagnin allowed to oxidize in barrel for an astonishing six years, Vin Jaune is unlike any other wine in the world. Its closest tasting relative is probably a dry fino sherry. The nose is remarkable, with butter, apricot, coffee, almonds, walnuts and more. The mouth is dry and intense, with a pure, distilled flavor and a sleek texture. Pair it with Comté in fondue and it’s one of the iconic food-wine marriages in French culinary history. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | |
 | Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia… (+) Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware. You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir.
The Santenay Grand Clos Roussot is a terrific, punchy Côte de Beaune red with unusual concentration and Morey’s signature polish. Look for dark blue fruits with earth and briary black raspberry. We think its a very good value and should drink well immediately. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | |
 | Stephane also produces an excellent cuvée from St-Joseph… (+) Stephane also produces an excellent cuvée from St-Joseph, a large appellation that stretches from Cornas in the south to Côte Rôtie in the north. This enormous span covers a wide range of terroirs, and makes the character of St-Joseph hard to pin down. Tunnels vines are all in the south, and we think it’s best considered a JV version of his iconic Cornas.
Drawn from 40+ year old vines and clocking in at a cool 13% alcohol, this is vibrant, intense, Syrah with Tunnel’s signature polish and class. There is a pleasant nose of dark fruit supported by exceedingly fine-grained tannins, and also excellent length. Vinous’s reviewer reported that “Vivid red and black cherry, violets and leafy subtleties rise up from the glass….polished and concentrated.”
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| Christophe’s Condrieu “Côte Chatillon” is rightly lauded, and… (+) Christophe’s Condrieu “Côte Chatillon” is rightly lauded, and would sell out every year even if the only customers were the great restaurants of Lyon. With Condrieu, no patience is required: the wine is all about its beautiful aromas, which grace the wine from the time of bottling. The 2020 has a lovely nose, a clean mixture of flowers and fruit. There are hints of orange blossom, white peach, pear and honeysuckle, all complemented by just a touch of oak. This is the perfect wine for quaffing; pour it into your biggest balloon glass and let it slowly unfold over half an hour or so. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $62 | |
| Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous… (+) Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better.
Vinous 94. "Primary red and blue fruit, violet, allspice and olive on the highly fragrant nose, where a smoky mineral nuance adds vibrant lift. Appealingly sweet, energetic blueberry, cherry and exotic spice flavors spread out steadily on the palate, picking up hints of spiciness and licorice on the back half. Finishes long and lively, with sharp clarity and silky tannins that provide closing shape and grip." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $62 | |
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