Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | The nose is extraordinary, hitting high notes and… (+) The nose is extraordinary, hitting high notes and low notes simultaneously in a symphony of fruit and earth. We find notes yellow orchard fruit and notes of tangerine and honey. The mouth is expansive and rich, but with pulsating energy and exquisite balance, with a finish that would outlast many a Meursault.
Reviewing the 2018 under its primary label, Kelley awarded 93 points, calling it “another terrific wine from this address,” and finding “white flowers, crisp melon and orchard fruit,” with “satiny and layered palate that’s racy and precise.” Jasper Morris MW was similarly impressed, predicting the 2020 might “join the very top vintages of the domaine.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | For more than fifteen years we thought of… (+) For more than fifteen years we thought of Poggerino as our secret, but the word is definitely out now. Vinous’s Antonio Galloni considers their wines “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy."
The Chianti Classico “Riserva Bugialla” 2019 offers a different texture from the Classico. It is richer and more full-bodied than the Classico 2020, with dark red fruit and mouth-filling roundness. Galloni thought that “Black cherry, incense, leather and spice give this virile Riserva plenty of complexity.” He called it a “dark, powerful wine, . . . impressive, especially in terms of its depth and overall substance.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk… (+) Gautheron's Chablis are old-school: little to no-oak, brisk freshness, clean minerality, excellent clarity of terroir. Jasper Morris MW is also a fan, writing in early 2023, “I must say that Cyril Gautheron’s wines are climbing up my table of Chablis producers.”
Fourneaux premier cru is another right bank premier cru and lies just down the slope from the Gautherons’ winery in the hamlet of Fleys. There’s more clay in the soils here, which adds some power, and the name (meaning “oven”) refers to the warm, sunny valley where sits the domaine. The wine is raised entirely in tank, and lacks for nothing in the way of complexity. The Fourneaux 2021 is delightful, with white more than yellow peach in a pleasantly chalky nose and a particularly nice balance in the mouth. It has an elegant, unctuous concentration that persists on the palate and finishes long. With intense fruit and a nice dollop of sucrocité, this is sure to be a crowd pleaser – perfectly balanced Chablis. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | The Vaillons premier cru lies on a slope… (+) The Vaillons premier cru lies on a slope parallel to Montmains on Chablis’s left bank, known as a source of chiseled, vibrant wines. Gautheron’s Vaillons 2021 is round and full on the palate despite the vintage’s relative freshness. Morris gave it 90-93 points, writing: “Very pale colour, with impressive tension on the nose. The stones are there and a bit of flesh, too, pure and typical with the usual dry finish. Old vines here. Really very long.”
This is everything you want from Chablis – savory intensity, perfectly ripe fruit, brisk stony backbone and laser focused finish. This needs no accompaniment – a delicious, complete glass of white wine on its own. But should hunger force your hand, this will match anything in need of zip – scallops, creamy oysters, swordfish, lobster, chicken sausages, etc (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | Jancis Robinson: "A very classy Hautes-Côtes de Beaune… (+) Jancis Robinson: "A very classy Hautes-Côtes de Beaune with a precise, chiselled character... Plenty of freshness... Nice mineral hint to finish."
Jasper Morris (5 stars): "This has a most beautiful bouquet, just the right degree of ripeness, the lightest of peaches but no honeysuckle. Just the right acidity too, drink this unsparingly across the summer months." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, 2024
At the premier cru level, 2022 offers an embarrassment of riches. Gautheron’s Chablis 1er cru “Vaucoupin” has many loyal buyers. It is always raised entirely in stainless steel, yielding an impressive purity of fruit. In 2022, Morris praised its “good tension, with lemon and lime, a little youthful bitterness, very promising in its classical Vaucoupin style.” We found a note of white peach among the citrus (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
| "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, 2024
Their vines here are old ones, and lie at both the top and the bottom of Vaillons’ long slope. Vaillons is classic left bank Chablis – cooler and less sunny – and the wine is drier and more piercing than Gautheron’s others. Morris was particularly impressed with the domaine’s Vaillons in 2022, projecting a score of 94 and writing "All in white fruit, barely even any lemons, with the requisite drier stony finish and the pleasing youthful grip. A fine example.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
| "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s
The Fourneaux premier cru 2022 regular cuvée was raised without any oak. In weight it is more Puligny than Meursault, to borrow a comparison from the Côte d’Or. When we tasted it, the nose was showing subtle ripe fruit, leaning orchard over citrus. Its combination of ripeness and elegance is hard to beat, and we serve it across a range of dishes. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
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 | The most clay-rich of Collet’s terroirs is “Butteaux,”… (+) The most clay-rich of Collet’s terroirs is “Butteaux,” a south-east facing sector of the Montmains vineyard on Chablis’s left bank. For this cuvée, Romain ages the wine in a combination of old oak barrels (5 to 10 years). The resulting wine has a concentration and layered complexity somewhere between premier cru and grand cru.
It’s not exactly classic Chablis – less brisk and angular than some of Romain’s cuvées; but it’s perfectly balanced and simply delicious in the glass. It begins with a rich attack of concentrated fruit that might make you think of modern Puligny-Montrachet, but a vibrant splash of Chablisienne minerals bursts through the palate and it finishes dry and precise.
Jasper Morris MW was similarly impressed, finding “lovely generous fruit yet with tension. Very good this year,” and awarding 91-94 points – just a point behind Romain’s Grand Cru Valmur. Think of it as a particularly stony Puligny-Montrachet, at a roughly 50% discount... (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | Winemaker Romain Collet has deftly steered his family’s… (+) Winemaker Romain Collet has deftly steered his family’s domaine through this new climate, and we’re not alone in this conclusion. Wine Critics Allen Meadows (Burghound) and William Kelley (Wine Advocate) have noted a “higher level of refinement” and a “significant upsurge in quality.” Jasper Morris MW writes that Romain Collet “is moving towards joining the pantheon” in Chablis.
Collet’s 2022 Chablis 1er cru “Forets” is a delicious, classy Chablis. It’s raised mostly in cement eggs, which add depth and texture to the crisp minerals and fruit. This is delightful, complete white Burgundy on its own, but also a terrific match with food. Burghound cites “minerality on the moderately austere and quite dry finale.” He concludes, “I like both the balance and the delivery and this is one to consider.”
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 | Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on… (+) Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on all cylinders. He has refined his cellar technique considerably, using gentler extractions, and focused his barrel work through exhaustive (some might say obsessive) experimentation and tasting. The resulting wines easily rival reds from the Côte d’Or in detail and complexity, and simply blow them away on price.
Gautier’s Givry 1er cru “Grand Berge” is from vines just in back of the domaine, and is the friendliest of the Desvignes premier crus. The 2022 is lovely and welcoming – dark and floral with a dose of toast and a rich, jammy complexion. The vintage provides ample concentration but no heat. Look for raspberry and violets, and a clean medium weight finish. Serve this with a mushroom risotto. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on… (+) Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on all cylinders. He has refined his cellar technique considerably, using gentler extractions, and focused his barrel work through exhaustive (some might say obsessive) experimentation and tasting. The resulting wines easily rival reds from the Côte d’Or in detail and complexity, and simply blow them away on price.
Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé” is detailed and sophisticated – higher toned and with more chiseled detail than his other premier crus. It’s particularly good in 2022, and easily worth the $6 upgrade from the village. The nose shows peony, wild cherries, and a delicate stoniness. The mouth is darker but retains a vibrant minerality alongside the inky fruit. Serve with a roast chicken on a cozy Sunday afternoon. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
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 | We’ve long enjoyed the delicious and well-priced St-Emilion… (+) We’ve long enjoyed the delicious and well-priced St-Emilion from Chateau Montlisse. Made from 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, it’s a rich, velvety blend with a classic combination of dark fruit and spice, but well supported by a solid backbone and lively freshness. We’ve just received the terrific 2019, and it’s as good as ever.
From a magnificent vintage, the 2019 Château Montlisse is everything you want from a sub-$50 Bordeaux: smooth and elegant, with mellow fruit and gorgeous earthy notes, and a solid core of structure and concentration. Look for notes of plums and toast with cassis, dark chocolate and dried violets. Neal Martin in Vinous cited “fine grained tannins and well judged acidity,” concluding, “this is a classy offering from Montlisse.” Pour this with a steak salad or this hearty Mushroom Farro. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
| The Maconnais domaine that produces Forces Telluriques has… (+) The Maconnais domaine that produces Forces Telluriques has been certified biodynamic for over 30 years, and they’re true believers: minimal vineyard intervention in the vines, meticulous and hands-off winemaking. William Kelley calls them “one of the best producers in the Mâconnais “ producing “ honeyed, concentrated wines that are imbued with remarkable concentration and energy.”
The Forces Telluriques vines are between 30 and 100 years old, producing gorgeous, concentrated juice. The wine is raised in enameled vats without any oak. The 2022 vintage is superb, round and full in the mouth yet offering memorable lemony freshness (the alcohol level is just 13%). There is plenty of complexity, as mineral notes join the fruit; and the wine persists on the palate beautifully. Jasper Morris writes: “deliciously floral…amazing how such a luxurious style of chardonnay can retain elegance.”
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 | Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic… (+) Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
For an Hautes Côtes de Nuits with a bit more flesh, consider “Au Vallon” 2022. This bottling comes from south-facing vines and with extra sun always achieves a bit more ripeness. Burghound also awarded his “ outstanding” designation to this wine, finding “sleek, vibrant and utterly delicious flavors.” Neal Martin of Vinous found “a lovely nose with rose-petal-tinged red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic… (+) Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
The Fontaine St. Martin cuvée comes from a territory with the same soils and subsoils as the famous Hill of Corton in the Côte d’Or proper to the south. This is more serious wine, requiring more time to round out and drink well than the others from the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Neal Martin found “plenty of brambly red fruit on the nose” and “commendable purity.” He thought today’s “muscular” finish would ebb with time in the bottle. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic… (+) Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
Gros's only white wine comes from the Hautes Côte’s Fontaine St. Martin, and shows that a skilled maker of red Burgundy can also show a deft touch with white. Neal Martin found “good weight and energy” and a “fresh nose of yellow fruit, hints of nectarine, and chai tea.” Under $50, it offers excellent value for a barrel-raised Burgundy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for… (+) We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
The Pouilly-Fuissé “Vieilles Vignes” 2023 is the principal cuvée of the domaine, made from 20 small parcels scattered across the Fuissé part of the appellation. The vines range from 40 to 70 years old, face all four points of the compass, and grow in a variety of marl, clay and limestone soils. Elevage for this cuvée is 80% in larger, older, oak barrels, and 20% in concrete vats, all for 18 months. The result is a wine of excellent balance and complexity. A series of very hot days at the end of the 2023 growing season concentrated the grapes, both in freshness and ripeness, making this a big, well balanced Pouilly-Fuissé. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
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| Poggerino is a top-notch producer from Chianti in… (+) Poggerino is a top-notch producer from Chianti in Italy. Nearly all of our winemakers are French, but we carve out a small exception for Piero and Benedetta Lanza in Radda. Rajat Parr calls their pure Sangiovese wines “some of the purest expressions of [Sangiovese] in Italy.” Wine Spectator calls their wines “impeccably balanced.”
Antonio Galloni awarded the 2018 Bugialla 94 points, calling it “a bold, dramatic wine.” This is especially opulent wine, full and generous on the palate. Look for a regal, almost Bordeaux-like nose, with notes of plum, cedar, and stones. Galloni praised its layers of “black cherry, mocha, lavender, licorice and spice." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.
Commes is on the upper part of the slope and the wine it produces is more precise, with excellent density and very fine tannins. It is just a touch lighter in weight than Gravieres, and refinement is its particular virtue. It has a lovely mineral line, and the only 20% whole cluster fermentation gives it a less structured, softer feel. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Vincent Ravaut’s family domaine lies at the northern… (+) Vincent Ravaut’s family domaine lies at the northern end of the Côte de Beaune, in the little known town of Ladoix. Though the names of the town and family are largely under the radar, the wines need not be, and generations of local customers have bought them happily.
The 2020 Ladoix 1er cru “Bois Roussot” manages to be both lively and hearty. The vintage delivered darker fruit than we often see here: it is black currants that mingle with toast and earth. Yet there is plenty of freshness and supple tannin, so the wine should age gracefully for many years. This is a wine that will show its best at the table, complementing a roast of pork, beef, or veal. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
| The family who creates this wine are true… (+) The family who creates this wine are true believers in the theory of biodynamics — minimal vineyard intervention in the vines, meticulous and hands-off winemaking. William Kelley calls them “one of the best producers in the Mâconnais “ producing “ honeyed, concentrated wines that are imbued with remarkable concentration and energy.”
The 2021 Forces Telluriques is a triumph. The domaine harvested slowly, over about 15 days, achieving 13.2% naturally – a real feat in a cool vintage. The resulting wine is superb, showing ripeness without weight, a wine that is lively and alive. Kelley gave 93 points, finding “Aromas of clear honey, white flowers, beeswax and sweet spices” calling it “a suave and vibrant wine that's satiny, bright and fine-boned, concluding with a bright, gently exotic finish.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
| The soil in this special plot is the… (+) The soil in this special plot is the same mix of marl, clay, and limestone found on the Hill of Corton, and Gros’s white echoes the famous floral and chalky qualities of Corton-Charlemagne. The 2021 is excellent, unwinding beautifully in the glass over a half hour. There’s gardenia and magno in the nose, with a vibrant mouth full of dry fruit and beautiful mineral tension. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found it “impressive and classy.” Serve this blind and your guests will call Santenay or Chassagne.
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 | Sourced from old vines, crafted by a masterful… (+) Sourced from old vines, crafted by a masterful winemaker, and given (like his Meursaults) an exceptionally long 22 months of elevage before bottling, Boyer’s 2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or is a triumph – far closer to a village Meursault than a humble regional-level wine.
We found Vincent’s 2021 Bourgogne his best yet, and we weren’t alone in our enthusiasm. Burghound gave it his “outstanding” distinction, finding “white orchard fruit and orange peel,” with “excellent punch and delineation,” from “delicious medium weight flavors” and a “sneaky long finish.” He concluded, simply, “Lovely.” We agree – the nose shows Boyer’s signature blend of golden fruit and focused minerals. The mouth is rich and smooth, with terrific concentration for its level (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Nicolas Ragot is our newest Côte Chalonnaise source… (+) Nicolas Ragot is our newest Côte Chalonnaise source, and one of the leading producers in Givry. He makes ample use of amphoras, which give his wines an appealing patina and exquisite freshness. William Kelley calls his reds “supple and flavorful,” Jancis Robinson writes of their “purity” and “classiness,” and Neal Martin of Vinous finds them “caressing,” “fleshy,” and “excellent.”
the 2022 Grand Berge is terrific, with exquisite, refined tannins and a dusty, beautiful fruit profile. The nose is more serious than the village level Givry, and the jump to premier cru is apparent in the length and refinement. This is serious, very classy red Burgundy, and a remarkable value – we expect it to age well for 5+ years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Nicolas Ragot is our newest Côte Chalonnaise source… (+) Nicolas Ragot is our newest Côte Chalonnaise source, and one of the leading producers in Givry. He makes ample use of amphoras, which give his wines an appealing patina and exquisite freshness. William Kelley calls his reds “supple and flavorful,” Jancis Robinson writes of their “purity” and “classiness,” and Neal Martin of Vinous finds them “caressing,” “fleshy,” and “excellent.”
The nose shows violet and cassis, the mouth bursts with fleshy red cherry fruit and a bit of cracked pepper. We think it’d hold its own against a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin, and certainly wouldn’t be the weaker of the two. It requires no patience and we expect will prove a loyal companion to steak-frites. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
| Vinous's Antonio Galloni writes: "Piero Lanza makes wines… (+) Vinous's Antonio Galloni writes: "Piero Lanza makes wines of notable character that capture all the finesse of Radda. I find a purity in these wines that is incredibly distinctive."
Piero Lanza's Chianti Classico “Riserva Bugialla” 2020 has even greater aging potential than the regular cuvée. Galloni called it a “potent, brooding wine” and gave “93+” points. He found that “macerated dark cherry, licorice, leather, tobacco and smoke all flesh out over time.” The wine spent nearly two months on the skins, followed by malolactic in cement and two years in large oak casks. Galloni thought that “this young, potent Riserva has a bright future.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s
Fourneaux premier cru “Vieilles Vignes” 2022 saw 15% oak, which contributes roundness and complexity. Its most impressive feature, however, is its showy length on the palate, a result of the old vine concentration. The balance of depth, energy, fruit and stones here is just terrific. We expect lovely evolution and a long, happy life for this wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s
This Montmains cuvée, from old vines, is magnificent this year. Impeccable balance amid lush fruit and piercing stones. Morris gave it his coveted 5 star rating, awarding 92-95 pts and writing "This has the requisite bite, the reductive crunch with massive intensity, all the power without the heaviness. Very fine long aftertaste. A classic in the making." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
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 | This wine transcends the genre in a way… (+) This wine transcends the genre in a way few other bottles do – if you told us it was a village Gevrey we’d believe you – humble in appellation, but striking in taste. Cheron used 100% whole clusters, adding definition to the dark fruit.
This is the most complex and elegant red Bourgogne in our portfolio. The nose is deep and beautiful with intense dark fruit but excellent lift – there’s a stony earthiness behind the plums that’s balanced and enticing. The mouth is clear, long, and nimble, bouncing from wild cherries to anise to black pepper and back to cassis. Burghound praised its “racy, delicious, well detailed flavors.” It offers immediate enjoyment, but should cellar a year or two with ease. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on… (+) Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on all cylinders. He has refined his cellar technique considerably, using gentler extractions, and focused his barrel work through exhaustive (some might say obsessive) experimentation and tasting. The resulting wines easily rival reds from the Côte d’Or in detail and complexity, and simply blow them away on price.
The 'Cuvée Ozymandias' is a blend of two of Givry's 1er Cru parcels: 'Le Vernoy' and 'Crémillons' - both located to the southwest of the village around his hamlet of Poncey. Gautier works with small parcels of relatively young Pinot Noir vines here (aged between 7 to 11 years old) planted on clay-limestone soils. There's brilliant clarity to this cuvée, with excellent detail and a long tense finish -- think Volnay but an hour further south. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Gautier Desvignes has become well known among our… (+) Gautier Desvignes has become well known among our readers (and in the wine press) for his gorgeous, affordable, beautifully crafted Burgundies from Givry. William Kelley of the Wine Advocate calls him “one of the leading lights in the Côte Chalonnaise.” But alongside a stellar lineup of reds that grab most of the attention, Desvignes is also a skilled crafter of whites Burgundies. His minimal use of oak and careful fermentation achieves white Givrys with terrific balance of fruit, freshness, and minerals.
Gautier’s 2022 village level “En Cheneves” is crisp and precise with a lovely mix of stones and yellow fruit. It’s 90% Chardonnay with 10% Pinot Blanc, a combination that gives beautiful aromatics with classy and concentrated texture. (Picture a particularly accessible St-Aubin, but at a discount.) It’s light on oak, and mostly about ripe springtime fruit – easy and friendly. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
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 | We found Piero’s 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva extraordinary – perhaps… (+) We found Piero’s 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva extraordinary – perhaps the best vintage he’s made. It’s long and sleek, packed with deep black fruit and tension. The oak is already integrated beautifully, as are the tannins. It will drink better young than recent vintages, but has more than enough material to go the distance. Galloni thought the 2021 Bugialla “another superb offering,” and awarded 94 points, finding “macerated black cherry, dried herbs, lavender and spice, all [ ] amplified in the glass.” Bear in mind that Riservas are big wines and generally need a few years to show their finer points. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Gautier Desvignes's Givry 1er cru “Grand Vignes” is… (+) Gautier Desvignes's Givry 1er cru “Grand Vignes” is more serious than the village-level Givry blanc – it’s hands down the best vintage of this wine we’ve tried. Gautier raises this entirely in oak, with ⅕ new barrels. The nose is exquisite and detailed, with golden apple fruit and delicate stones. The mouth is floral and long with wonderful length across a bursting and juicy palate that finishes clean and delightful. We’d put this in the same category as a St-Aubin from Thomas Morey or Sophie Bohrmann, and it comes at a serious discount. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Borhmann’s Bourgogne vines are across the RN-74 from… (+) Borhmann’s Bourgogne vines are across the RN-74 from Pommard. At 35 years old, they’re more mature than many Bourgogne-level vines, and their fruit produces a wine of real complexity. She uses 70% whole clusters, giving the wines excellent definition and exquisite tension.
The nose shows seductive, crushed ripe red fruits, overlaid with a soft floral character – an unmistakably Côte de Beaune profile. The mouth is perfectly ripe, smooth, and delicious, with fine chalky tannin supporting the bursting fruit. The 2023s possess an extraordinary balance of fruit, tension, and texture – the bottle on our Thanksgiving table evaporated with haste. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
| Romain Collet is one of the most exciting… (+) Romain Collet is one of the most exciting talents in our portfolio. He’s the energetic and innovative grandson of Jean Collet, the domaine’s founder. He experiments with all of today’s means of elevage, so a visitor to the cellars now walks past not only stainless steel tanks and large oak foudres, but also cement eggs, clay amphoras, and barrels of all sizes, from traditional Burgundian to demi-muids holding 400 or 500 liters.
Among our favorites is Romain's Chablis 1er cru cuvée from “Forêts,” a terroir made famous by Dauvissat’s iconic cuvée. Romain uses large concrete eggs for his Forêts cuvée, and the wine has a smoothed layer of fruit over the piercing Chablis acidity. The resulting wine is dry, dynamic and delicious, at once mouthfilling and bursting with saline and zip. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
| The Domaine is run these days by Romain… (+) The Domaine is run these days by Romain Collet, the energetic and talented grandson of Jean Collet, the founder. Romain skillfully matches the new and old techniques with the various terroirs, crafting delicious and varied wines with much character. The result is a wide selection, in which something can be found to please every palate.
In Butteaux the ground is just a bit cooler, contributing more briskness and just enough fat. Butteaux 2023 began its elevage in tank and finished in older Burgundian barrels. As between these two Montmains siblings, Forêts offers a bit more richness, Butteaux a bit more steely energy and salinity. The mouth is very dry and tense, with less fruit than Forêts. In some years this approaches a Côte d’Or white; this year Collet has dialed the oak way down, and it’s almost imperceptible. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Chateau Larrieu-Terrefort's 2019 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon… (+) Chateau Larrieu-Terrefort's 2019 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, and offers a particularly refined take on the terroir. The class of the vintage is apparent, and the 2019’s elegant, perfectly structured tannins are exquisite in this wine. The nose is sophisticated and pretty with notes of sweet spice and oak; the mouth is fine and long with a delicate balance and very long finish. This will benefit from some time in the bottle, but we expect it to be exceptional in a few years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | One particular success in 2022 are the reds… (+) One particular success in 2022 are the reds of Roger Belland, whose cuvées are universally delicious, and always well priced. His Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2022 is a triumph – loads of dark cassis and violet fruit packed into a solid and inky core of fruit and minerals. And all wrapped up in a neat, classy, 13% alc. package.
Burghound loved this wine, awarding it both “Outstanding” and “Top Value” designations. He found “fine volume and richness,” with “an opulent mid-palate mouthfeel,” calling the finish “firm and serious.” It’s juicy modern red Burgundy, but with perfect ripeness and an old-school texture. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s
Gautheron's Montée de Tonnerre is a triumph in 2022. From Chablis's top premier cru vineyard, this is nearing Grand Cru levels for depth and intensity. Morris writes "There is a softer succulence, a ripe flesh on the palate, that is one typical facet of Montée de Tonnerre, then a long generous finish," 91-94. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for… (+) We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
“Pierres à Canards,” is a small plot of 70 year-old vines in a higher section, and in 2023 the wine was impressively generous in the nose and round in the mouth. It was vinified and raised in barrels for 12 months, followed by 6 months en cuve. There’s a lot going on in this glass: great purity of fruit mingled with a mineral line, and much length on the palate. It’s a bit drier than the Vieilles Vignes – more savory, more saline, more serious – but no less tasty. Like the Vieilles Vignes, it should have a long life and prove a versatile wine to pair with a wide range of dishes. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
| As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
Raised entirely in stainless steel, the Vaucoupin is particularly nice in 2023, offering a fine and delicate mouthfeel. The balance is particularly good, with freshness tied into a palate that nonetheless feels round and supple. In the nose, floral notes of acacia join the clean lemon fruit. Jasper Morris found “plenty of tension on the palate, discreet in the middle, a little richer at the finish. . . . Classy yet of medium body.” This is prototypical Chablis, and it wants for nothing. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
| As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
The Chablis premier cru “Fourneaux” 2023 is from a right-bank vineyard with more clay in the soils. It is also raised entirely in stainless steel, but the additional clay makes the wine more easily accessible, with a palate of rounder mouthfeel before a mineral finish with refreshing salinity. Jasper Morris awarded four stars, calling it “understated yet fine.”
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 | Morey’s white Burgundies are quietly extraordinary. They’re concentrated… (+) Morey’s white Burgundies are quietly extraordinary. They’re concentrated but perfectly channeled, long but refined – immaculate fruit and stones join the merest whisper of oak. Morey makes terrific wine at every level, but today we’re focused on his simplest: Bourgogne blanc.
This cuvée shows all of the meticulous concentration of all of Morey’s wines, but without the site-specific terroir shining through. It’s not about the chiseled stoniness of Puligny, or the shimmering golden energy of Chassagne; this is about winemaker style. And boy, what a style it is.
Morey’s Bourgogne blanc usually evaporates in Futures, but this year we’ve got a bit extra. Open last night alongside a roast chicken and fall weather, this was simply delicious. The nose shows lime zest and white flowers, the mouth shows yellow plum and earth. Burghound called this “lovely,” and we think you will too. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | The soils of this region are the same… (+) The soils of this region are the same Kimmeridgian mixture as nearby Chablis — a blend of chalk, limestone, and clay, rather than the chalk-limestone of the rest of Champagne. The addition of clay gives the wines a broader mouthfeel than those from northern Champagne, and we found all four Robin wines delightfully rich on the palate.
Cuvée Topaze is blanc de blancs (100% chardonnay): refined, elegant, and subtle; the nose is fresh and clean with notes of lemon, chalk, and green apple. The mouth beautifully blends citrus and earth — it calls to mind a white Burgundy with bubbles. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 |