Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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Chateau Cantemerle is an extremely old property (dating… (+) Chateau Cantemerle is an extremely old property (dating back to the 12th century), recognized as a “fifth growth” in the 1855 classification. This is the most serious of the three, with a gorgeous, deep, outstanding nose showing wild cherries, tobacco, and just a hint of spice. The mouth is sturdy and extremely well built, with tremendous concentration and a long impeccably balanced finish. There’s dark, rich fruit, solid structure, and impressive freshness. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $52 | ||
As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
Montmains premier cru “Vieilles Vignes” is exceptional in 2023. The balance is just beautiful, with good roundness in the mouth, plenty of freshness at the same time, and extraordinary persistence on the palate. The 80 year age of these vines has something to do with the exceptional results, but vinification also plays a part. For a part of this wine Cyril has used a 3500 liter wooden cuve, which delivers micro-oxygenation without much movement of the lees, making the wine less focused and a bit more open. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $52 | ||
The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes… (+) The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes of dark fruits and spice. They are rich without being heavy – only 13% alcohol – and there’s an attractive liveliness often lacking in Syrah from the Southern Hemisphere. Bonnefond wines will age with no trouble for ten or more years.
Their Côte Rôtie shows plum, roasted meats and black pepper; the mouth is spiced and dense, showing olives and dark chocolate, and a hint of smoke. The inky tannins here are firm but not harsh, and with a few hours in a carafe this is a lovely glass of wine. We wouldn’t be the first to volunteer to work the vertigo-inducing “fields” of Bonnefond’s vineyards, but we’re certainly glad someone does. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | ||
The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge… (+) The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it.
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“Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the… (+) “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the 2022 red Burgundies; “very good wines and plenty of them.” William Kelley calls them “succulent, suave and charming”, “offering excellence in both colors and in a wide variety of styles.” Roger Belland's reds are entirely classic, with ripe modern fruit but traditional, low-alcohol textures.
Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Beauregard” is delicious in this vintage. After a few minutes in the glass, its sunny ripe fruit begins to emerge. In the mouth it is particularly pleasant, fresh enough but not brisk, and round but not too mouth filling. The combination gives it an elegant feel, with ripe tannins providing support at the back end. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | ||
Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines… (+) Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines are Demeter certified, the highest organic classification. In the bottle this translates to superb purity and clarity, with careful elevage and excellent balance. As William Kelley puts it, “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
Pouilly-Fuissé 1er cru “Vignes Blanche” is rich, smooth, and vibrant, with unusual power and depth. Even here Vessigaud eschews new oak, opting for 5-year-old demi-muids (large 600L barrels) for a year. He’s right, of course – the wine wants for nothing, showing notes of brioche, pear, and chalk with a long, sleek, shimmering finish. “This is achingly good – simply excellent wine,” writes critic Bill Nanson. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | ||
Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines… (+) Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines “gorgeous…all showing the natural richness of Ambonnay,” and writing they “have been favorites of mine for years, because of their quality, personality, and exceedingly fair prices.” Ambonnay is known as Pinot Noir country, where extra clay and warm southern exposure lend themselves well to the red grape.
Courtier’s base “Cuvée Tradition” is simply exquisite grower Champagne at a remarkable price. It’s super expressive exploding from the glass with notes of spring flowers, pear, raspberries, herbs and brioche. At 6g dosage and a blend of 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay it’s dry but full of fruit, and the texture is at once lush and crisp. This is accessible, affordable, downright tasty Champagne – full of character, flavor, and life. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | ||
“Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis… (+) “Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis Basset family’s horticultural roots. It comes from 50 year-old Syrah vines, which give exceptional depth and intensity. It’s noticeably more concentrated and intense than Étincelle, shows a bit more new oak, and offers more complexity — a bit of black olive and smokiness along with the fruit. It can be cellared for up to eight or ten years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | ||
Though we no longer offer Caroline Lestimé’s brilliant… (+) Though we no longer offer Caroline Lestimé’s brilliant wines under her traditional Jean-Noël Gagnard label through our regular channels, we’re excited to have a few of her “negoce” cuvées in stock – both of this year’s show off Caroline’s technical cellar chops, and carry the signature glossy Gagnard character.
The nose is bright and perfumy, with lemon, stones and faint herbs. The mouth shows beautiful sucrocité, with a sleek round texture that finishes vibrant and fresh. As with all of Caroline’s wines, the interplay of oak, fruit and earth is seamless. With its excellent freshness we expect this to drink well for a number of years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | ||
Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.
Santenay 1er cru “Beauregard” offers excellent value. This is full bodied white Burgundy, rich and round, with notes of oak mingled with ripe fruit. And the paradox of the 2020 whites – vibrant freshness in a hot year – is on full display. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | ||
The world has by now discovered St-Aubin, the… (+) The world has by now discovered St-Aubin, the once secret town tucked away up a valley between Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. But even if it’s less hidden than it once was, its wines are better than ever. At the western edge of the appellation lies a plot named “Murgers des Dents de Chiens.” Perched just up the hill from Montrachet itself, this St. Aubin premier cru is a remarkable value.
Gerard Thomas’s 2022 St-Aubin "Murgers" shows terrific concentration, with ripe lemon fruit blending perfectly into a chiseled mineral core. On the palate it’s crackling and savory, with a long and tense finish that’s vibrant and lithe. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found it “rich, creamy and inviting…lots of spice on the palate,” concluding “fresh, flavorful and full of fruit.”
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This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie… (+) This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie Bohrmann, a domaine in Meursault whose wines we discovered in a Beaune restaurant. Her wines are quietly brilliant, many hailing from well-known vineyards in St-Aubin, Puligny and Meursault. Her 2022 white Burgundies are terrific – low in alcohol, full of ripe fruit and excellent freshness, with terrific concentration and appealing textures.
At the village level Sofie's St. Aubin’s “Champ Tirant” comes from vines replanted in 2016, which came into production in 2020. There’s plenty of gras (fat) in this wine, but there is also good supporting freshness. It's creamy and delicious, with the weight of a premier cru but a quicker finish. A crowd pleaser at an excellent price. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | ||
Boursot’s newest cuvée is their Savigny-les-Beaune, a village that… (+) Boursot’s newest cuvée is their Savigny-les-Beaune, a village that comes with less fame and a significant discount from the better known appellations. Savigny’s terroir naturally tends toward linear wines with tension and minerals, notes that play beautifully in a year of heat and drought. The Boursots use 25% amphora and 25% oak for this cuvée, and the result is a pleasant, fresh, extremely drinkable wine. The nose shows cherries and limestone, the mouth is floral and pleasant, with delicate tannins amid the deep inky fruit. Bill Nanson of the “Burgundy Report” writes “wide and perfumed…you might guess Chambolle…simply excellent.” Serve this with duck confit or a creamy chicken, and watch the wine slice effortlessly through the fat. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | ||
Baron de Brane Margaux 2018 is a second… (+) Baron de Brane Margaux 2018 is a second wine from the famous Margaux chateau Brane-Cantenac, a second growth property. This is 60% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Carménère. This wine stood out particularly for the nose. It has the high toned silky character of classic Margaux that’s somehow both elegant and musclular. The mouth is no slouch though, with an extremely well balanced mouthfeel showing graphite, earth, cassis and an old-school weight and shape. It’s more serious and less lush than the Murmure, as you’d expect from something on the Left Bank, but is drinking just as well now. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | ||
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In most years this cuvée is an excellent… (+) In most years this cuvée is an excellent buy -- a beautifully made Côte Rôtie for under $60. But in 2015, it’s nothing short of a steal. In a vintage where Northern Rhône reds have been called “the best in 55 years,” the Colline de Couzou is an exceptional wine and a great value.
The nose shows black pepper, olive, and blackberry; the mouth is very dense, elegantly textured, and extremely long, with notes of anise, plum jam, and cloves. Josh Raynolds of Vinous awarded 91-93 points, finding “silky tannins” and “excellent clarity.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond’s 2016s “as graceful… (+) Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond’s 2016s “as graceful a group of wines as I’ve ever sampled.” And graceful is an apt word -- they are long and silky, with beautiful tension and gorgeous texture.
The 2016 Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” shows notes of anise, plum jam, and cloves. Vinous awarded 92 points, finding “cassis and violet,” “an energizing jolt of cracked pepper,” and calling it “sappy, smooth and long.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
As you may have read, 2016 was a… (+) As you may have read, 2016 was a wonderful growing season in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It was easy on the vignerons, a welcome respite after a series of vintages that tested their skills. The 2016 red from the Domaine André lives up to our very high expectations.
The nose is lovely and expressive, with deep, dark fruit. The wine fills the mouth beautifully, with plenty of tannins that are already silky. It is a vintage of “lace and elegance,” to quote Jacqueline. This is a big wine with the capacity to live for decades, but it is also a wine that will offer much pleasure in its early years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Josh Raynolds (91-93 points) found the regular cuvée… (+) Josh Raynolds (91-93 points) found the regular cuvée “sweet, seamless, and focused on the palate, where a smoky mineral quality sharpens primary black/blue fruit liqueur flavors.” He is right.
We found it richer than the 2016, but the weight of the wine is enormously attractive; it’s in the heart of the sweet spot between too much extraction and too little. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Picamelot’s Brut “Les Terroirs” is the regular cuvée. It is… (+) Picamelot’s Brut “Les Terroirs” is the regular cuvée. It is a blend similar to most Champagnes, including both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. To reflect faithfully the terroirs of Burgundy, Chautard chooses Aligoté for the third grape. The result is a smooth and drinkable glass of wine, with the fine bubbles that come from raising the wine by the traditional méthode champenoise.
Whenever you’re not quite sure what to pair with a dish, crémant is a good choice. We also much enjoy it as a sparkling kir — an apéritif with Crème de Cassis mixed in. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
On the Domaine du Tunnel, Vinous’s Josh Raynolds… (+) On the Domaine du Tunnel, Vinous’s Josh Raynolds writes “This domaine, by my estimation, is among the top producers of Cornas, but production is small and widely spread, making them hard to track down.” Winemaker Stéphane Robert oaks even his fanciest cuvées with only 10% new oak, allowing the purity and depth of fruit to show through.
Tunnel’s 2018 Cornas (Vinous 93, Wine Advocate 90-92) is the quickest to mature — both Vinous and Wine Advocate suggested a drinking window beginning in the next few years. They found notes of “incense” and “raspberry preserve,” with “ripe, silky tannins,” and “an impressively long, sappy finish.” Raynolds concluded “this is really quite elegant.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single… (+) Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single most impressive set of bottlings I have had here since I started annual visits in 2005.”
The Bonnefonds’ regular cuvée of Côte Rôtie, “Colline de Couzou,” is no ordinary entry level wine. Raynolds called it “awfully impressive” and “distinctly suave,” awarding it 93 points. We found the dark, ripe fruit just lovely, with added notes of pepper, minerals, and maybe a touch of iodine. The 2018 vintage of this wine blew us away; we’d compare it to the Rochins cuvée in a less favorable year. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Condrieu is the exotic white wine from Viognier… (+) Condrieu is the exotic white wine from Viognier, a grape once unknown outside the region, but now grown widely around the world. Nowhere else does it make a wine to rival those of Condrieu. These wines are all about their magical aromas, and should be served in your largest balloon glasses. Unlike other high-end wines, they’re not for long keeping, and you should enjoy your Condrieu in the five years after the harvest. De Boisseyt’s Condrieu “Carbonne” 2020 is a classic example of the wine, with ripe aromas of exotic fruit, including pineapple, apricot and aromas of white peach. Serve this wine outdoors on a soft summer night, or as an aperitif beside a December fire in your fireplace (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
On Bordeaux’s right bank in the towns of… (+) On Bordeaux’s right bank in the towns of St-Emilion and Pomerol, Merlot finds its finest expression in clay-rich soils. Particularly in the winter, we love the smooth velvety texture and firm shape of Pomerol, and we’re delighted to introduce our newest find in Pomerol: the Château Bel-Air, from 2016.
Now 8 years on from harvest, this wine is simply a delight – it was a hit at our warehouse tasting on Saturday. The nose is beautiful and deep with inky violets and plums in the nose – perfume and lush fruit abound. Antonio Galloni of Vinous gave 91 points, calling it “powerful, explosive Pomerol” with “plenty of immediacy and sheer appeal.” Drink this now from a decanter with a cassoulet or wintery stew, or age it another few years for a softened, velvety delight. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines… (+) Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines “gorgeous…all showing the natural richness of Ambonnay,” and writing they “have been favorites of mine for years, because of their quality, personality, and exceedingly fair prices.”
Their Blanc de Blancs is extra brut (5g dosage) and unusual for the town (Ambonnay), combining the richness from the soils with the energy of Chardonnay. Galloni writes that this cuvée “remains one of the hidden gems in Champagne.” As you’d expect this is finer than Coutier's Tradition, longer and steely with less fruit and more tension. The nose shows notes of chalk, magnolia, lemon zest and stones, with a clear, chalky texture that’s precise and very elegant. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule… (+) Fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.” Their old vines produce intense, teeth-staining Syrah, with extraordinary depth but remarkable freshness.
Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2022 is terrific, a symphony of spice and deep black fruit. At 13% alcohol it’s sunny and ripe without an ounce of heaviness, the calling card of top Northern Rhône reds. The nose is deep and perfumed with notes of dark cherry, spices, cocoa and cured meats. The mouth is dark and rich but with sturdy tannin and a pleasant savory element. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Wine writer Rajat Parr describes St. Aubin as… (+) Wine writer Rajat Parr describes St. Aubin as the “insider’s white Burgundy.” Wedged in a valley between Chassagne and Puligny, this town produces white Burgundy with hints of Montrachet’s golden richness, but a less stratospheric price tag. St-Aubin has become rarer and pricier like everything else in Burgundy, but it’s still far more affordable than its famous neighbors.
At the western edge of the St. Aubin appellation lies a plot named “Murgers des Dents de Chiens.” Perched just up the hill from Montrachet itself, this St. Aubin 1er cru is a remarkable value. It’s everything that white Burgundy should be – rich, refreshing, complex, and elegant. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for… (+) We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
Pouilly-Fuissé 1er cru “Les Reisses” is from a marl and limestone plot called “Vers Pouilly,” also in the village of Fuissé. The vines here are between 60 and 80 years old — about twice as old as those in “Vignes Blanches.” Such vines make a lot of millerandage (grapes of various sizes that have a high skin-to-juice ratio), which produces concentrated wine of greater power and length. Elevage here is leisurely, with 12 months in 5 year old demi-muids (600L barrels) followed by six months in stainless steel. Persistence on the palate is particularly noteworthy in “Les Reisses” 2023, and its prominent mineral line carries through to the end. This is a focused and precise wine, more reminiscent of a Puligny-Montrachet than a Chassagne-Montrachet. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Cornas is pure Syrah like the rest of… (+) Cornas is pure Syrah like the rest of the Northern Rhône, but the feel is of something sunnier from further South. Today fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.”
Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2023 is terrific, and follows a similar pattern to the 2023 red Burgundies: it bears a strong resemblance to the 2022s, but with more lift and energy. Once upon a time a tasting of young Cornas would be considered work, and you might have to brush your teeth afterwards – but not today. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | ||
Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and… (+) Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and an excellent entree to the collection. A blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this wine has the complexity and depth to match the finest bottles from Burgundy or Bordeaux. This year’s Traditionnel contains wine mostly from 2012, and we found it even better than last year’s. The nose shows plum and lemon and buttered biscuits; the mouth is dry, elegant, and smooth, with notes of apple and toast. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | ||
The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru “Clos Pitois” rouge is… (+) The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru “Clos Pitois” rouge is particularly nice this year. It offers a toastier nose, with fruit that’s a bit more focused and less prominent than the 2017 Santenay Beauregard rouge. Think black currants vs. dark cherries.
A pleasant minerality mingles with the fruit. We’d likely wait six months or so before trying a bottle, but we expect the wine to be a classic Côte de Beaune red before long. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | ||
The 2018 vintage delivered the warmest summer in… (+) The 2018 vintage delivered the warmest summer in decades, and the resulting wines are big, muscly, ripe and full-bodied,
Mégard's 2018 Pommard is a classic of the town. The nose is pretty and exotic, with soy sauce and spices alongside the classic raspberry fruit. The mouth shows dry blackberries, with a long mouthfeel mouthfeel that's elegant but sturdy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | ||
Vin Jaune represents the highest level of oxidative… (+) Vin Jaune represents the highest level of oxidative Savagnin from the Jura. The wine spends more than six years under the veil, over which time a third of the volume evaporates, and the wine transforms into something intense, rich, and complex. Look for a dizzying array of flavors and aromas — walnuts, hazelnuts, caramel, curry, coffee, toast, butter, cocoa, citrus zest, and more.
The wine comes in traditional 620ml bottles called “clavelins,” which represents about what’s left after six years of aging 1 liter of wine. What do you do with this wine? Easy — serve it with real Comté, at least 24-36 months old, for one of the world’s iconic food-wine pairings. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $65.$59Current price is: $59. | ||
2019 was the fifth in a string of… (+) 2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.”
The regular cuvée of Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” offers a beautiful nose of sweet fruit mixed with aromas of violets and smoke. It is just lovely in the mouth, with plenty of body. Raynolds called it “hefty and broad yet lively as well, finishing with well-judged tannins and strong, floral-driven persistence.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | ||
The Jura’s best known style of wine is… (+) The Jura’s best known style of wine is its intentionally oxidized whites made from the Savagnin grape. Rather than topping up the barrels to prevent exposure to oxygen, Jura winemakers allow a “voile” (veil) of yeast to form on the wine’s surface. The wine rests in barrel under veil for years, over which time the volume decreases and the otherworldly flavors develop.
The 2014 Vin Jaune is a treat. The texture is dry and waxy – think a fino sherry but with much fuller and richer mouthfeel. Pair with comté and fondue and it’s one of iconic food-wine marriages of France. But another traditional pairing is our favorite -- chicken thighs in a cream reduction. Throw in some morels, and you’re in for a real experience. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $65.$59Current price is: $59. | ||
Neal Martin on Prunier's 2019s: “they might not… (+) Neal Martin on Prunier's 2019s: “they might not oblige superlatives, yet they represent honest and true reflections of their terroirs…considering that these continue to be sold at very reasonable prices, they are certainly worth looking out for.”
This exhibits Beaune’s classically middleweight expression of Pinot Noir. The nose is lovely and floral, with nice minerality and a bit of toast. Martin found “a concentrated bouquet with strong rose petal and violet,” and also noted the oak. We’d counsel hanging onto this for a few years so the oak can become a little better acquainted with the fruit, but with some patience this will be an excellent Beaune red. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | ||
Jacqueline André's 2019 is a triumph. There are… (+) Jacqueline André's 2019 is a triumph. There are delicious dark fruits of blackberry and cassis. The wine is dense and rich, with good structure and lots of intensity – “construit” (“built”) she called it. There is excellent complexity too — tiny notes of anise, lavender, thyme, raspberries and more. More than perhaps any other in our portfolio, this wine embodies the term “layers.” And as always, though it is rich, the wine has plenty of freshness. As with all her vintages, we anticipate much pleasure as we watch the 2019 evolve over what will certainly be a long and interesting life.
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France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east… (+) France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east of Burgundy, but in winemaking terms it’s a world away. The Jura is best known for its light reds and idiosyncratic whites. Our tiny producer here is the Domaine Hervé Ligier.
Made from Savagnin allowed to oxidize in barrel for an astonishing six years, Vin Jaune is unlike any other wine in the world. Its closest tasting relative is probably a dry fino sherry. The nose is remarkable, with butter, apricot, coffee, almonds, walnuts and more. The mouth is dry and intense, with a pure, distilled flavor and a sleek texture. Pair it with Comté in fondue and it’s one of the iconic food-wine marriages in French culinary history. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | ||
Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia… (+) Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware. You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir.
The Santenay Grand Clos Roussot is a terrific, punchy Côte de Beaune red with unusual concentration and Morey’s signature polish. Look for dark blue fruits with earth and briary black raspberry. We think its a very good value and should drink well immediately. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | ||
Stephane also produces an excellent cuvée from St-Joseph… (+) Stephane also produces an excellent cuvée from St-Joseph, a large appellation that stretches from Cornas in the south to Côte Rôtie in the north. This enormous span covers a wide range of terroirs, and makes the character of St-Joseph hard to pin down. Tunnels vines are all in the south, and we think it’s best considered a JV version of his iconic Cornas.
Drawn from 40+ year old vines and clocking in at a cool 13% alcohol, this is vibrant, intense, Syrah with Tunnel’s signature polish and class. There is a pleasant nose of dark fruit supported by exceedingly fine-grained tannins, and also excellent length. Vinous’s reviewer reported that “Vivid red and black cherry, violets and leafy subtleties rise up from the glass….polished and concentrated.”
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Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $65.$59Current price is: $59. | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $65.$59Current price is: $59. | ||
Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay – their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s 2019s are magnificent, as classy and supple as anything they’ve produced.
The 2019 Pitois rouge shows dense supporting structure that needs some time for integration with the other elements: dark currant fruit, spice, earthy minerals, and a nicely balanced dose of oak. This is serious wine, more dry than juicy, and in a few years it should provide a wonderful accompaniment for all manner of roasts, steaks, and chops of beef, pork and veal. Jasper Morris found it “particularly intense” with “light cocoa powder on the red fruit.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $62 | ||
Christophe’s Condrieu “Côte Chatillon” is rightly lauded, and… (+) Christophe’s Condrieu “Côte Chatillon” is rightly lauded, and would sell out every year even if the only customers were the great restaurants of Lyon. With Condrieu, no patience is required: the wine is all about its beautiful aromas, which grace the wine from the time of bottling. The 2020 has a lovely nose, a clean mixture of flowers and fruit. There are hints of orange blossom, white peach, pear and honeysuckle, all complemented by just a touch of oak. This is the perfect wine for quaffing; pour it into your biggest balloon glass and let it slowly unfold over half an hour or so. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $62 | ||
Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous… (+) Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better.
Vinous 94. "Primary red and blue fruit, violet, allspice and olive on the highly fragrant nose, where a smoky mineral nuance adds vibrant lift. Appealingly sweet, energetic blueberry, cherry and exotic spice flavors spread out steadily on the palate, picking up hints of spiciness and licorice on the back half. Finishes long and lively, with sharp clarity and silky tannins that provide closing shape and grip." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $62 | ||
Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among… (+) Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among the brightest names in the humble town of Auxey-Duresses, and a favorite of Vinous writer Neal Martin. Martin characterizes them as an “old-school producer” with “premier crus worth hunting down, as they represent good value.”
The Beaune 1er cru “Sizies” is delicious, showing Beaune’s classic stony character amid the inky fruit. The nose is intensely floral, with sweet red fruits and earth. The mouth is bold and very concentrated, but balanced expertly with a mineral line. Martin awarded 91-93 points, finding “pliant tannins…focused and taut,” concluding “this is very promising.”
(-) Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $69.$62Current price is: $62. | ||
Roger Belland's delicious organic whites are outstanding in… (+) Roger Belland's delicious organic whites are outstanding in 2022, delivering wines packed with fruit, energy, and depth. His white Santenay 1er cru also comes from the Beauregard vineyard. It sports a very attractive price tag for a wine that is in many respects a junior version of the Clos Pitois blanc. Dial back the intensity, depth, and persistence just a bit from the Clos Pitois, and you have the Beauregard premier cru blanc 2022. Particularly in 2022, we think most people tasting this blind would put it on the Chassagne side of the border – think opulent, golden richness. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $62 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | $62 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | $62 |

































