Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | Down the slope from the Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne… (+) Down the slope from the Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne the Ravauts produce an undervalued white Burgundy from the appellation Ladoix — we find that it more than holds its own alongside better known whites from Meursault, Puligny and Chassagne.
The Ladoix blanc 2019 is a relative bargain in this category, offering vanilla notes married with deep, ripe fruit in the nose — look for beeswax alongside lovely golden fruit. On the palate it is very round, but with good supporting acidity. There is a lot going on in the glass and a long, lingering finish. Writer Bill Nanson called the Ravauts’ Ladoix blanc a “baby Corton-Charlemagne,” and we can see why he did. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost… (+) The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost universally successful. The tannins are compact and delicious, with an unusual succulence that makes them delightful even young. The fruits are both perfectly ripe and beautifully balanced, indicating a long life ahead.
Ravaut’s 2019 Côte de Nuits-Villages is among our most popular everyday red Burgundies. Today we’re suggesting its more sophisticated and classier cousin: the Ladoix 1er cru “Bois Roussot.” It’s bursting with strawberries and briary, woodsy berries in the nose; the mouth is smooth and fine-grained, with excellent density and a clean, modern finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | The Chastan family has been making wine in… (+) The Chastan family has been making wine in the same style for two generations. They were among the earliest in the region to farm organically (they were certified in 1980!), and their winemaking is simple and straightforward. Vinification for all the wines is cement vats, followed by an elevage in either vats or neutral oak foudres. The wines are neither fined nor filtered.
The Clos du Joncuas Gigondas 2020 is an easy, early-drinking vintage. It is silky smooth and rich, with dense, sweet fruit and notes of allspice. Though velvety, there is good underlying structure and a bit of earthiness in the finish. A dose of salinity balances the lush fruit, making this a delightful young wine we think will drink well for several years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.
Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2020 highlights the virtue of the best 2020s: though the vintage is a very ripe one, the dryness left enough acidity in the grapes to keep the wines fresh and vibrant. Thus the wines are well balanced and should age beautifully. Allen Meadows (“Burghound”) praised the Gravières 2020 for its “intense and elegant floral-suffused nose,” finding “black cherry liqueur, soft spice, and earth.” It’s 40% whole cluster fermentation this year, giving excellent definition to the lush fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in… (+) The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in 1550; for centuries, like many Burgundy domaines, they sold their entire production each year to the negociants of Beaune. Today it’s brothers Romauld and Romaric making the wines as the 15th generation of Boursots. Vinous’s Neal Martin describes Boursot’s wines as “superb,” “excellent,” “very fine,” and “worth seeking out.”
This lesser-known appellation just north of Beaune produces lovely red Burgundies with terrific freshness. In a world where an abundance of ripeness has hidden the clear, subtle earthiness of wine from many sites, Savigny remains a source for wines of tension, depth, and elegance. Old school red Burgundy from a terrific modern source. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie… (+) This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie Bohrmann, a domaine in Meursault whose wines we discovered in a Beaune restaurant. Her wines are quietly brilliant, many hailing from well-known vineyards in St-Aubin, Puligny and Meursault. Her 2022 white Burgundies are terrific – low in alcohol, full of ripe fruit and excellent freshness, with terrific concentration and appealing textures.
St-Romain sits about 400-500 feet higher in elevation than Borhmann’s hometown of Meursault, a real advantage in Burgundy’s new hot dry summer climate. Sofie acquired the Clos Sous le Chateau, a small monopole below the ruins, a decade ago, and it was a very smart choice. Her 2022 St-Romain is an exquisite combination of ripeness and zip – less creamy and soft than St-Aubin, but with Sofie’s signature golden polish. With just a splash of oak and a delicate bouquet of white flowers, acacia and almonds, this has to be among the best sub-$50 Burgundies around. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85%… (+) Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85% raised in barrel (40% new) and the rest in amphora, with 25% whole cluster. This recipe makes for a serious red Burgundy, and the wine has the presence and texture of a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin. The nose is dark and sappy with impressively complex layers of spice, blackberry, cherry and stones. The mouth is rich and dense but with exceptional tension and freshness – it’s a dynamic wine in a way that much sub-$50 red Burgundy is not.
Neal Martin of Vinous gave it 91 points, finding a “bouquet of crushed strawberry, cranberry and lightly pressed flower.” In the mouth he noted “fine tannins, well balanced and refined,” concluding “this is another delicious Givry from Nicolas Ragot.”
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| Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from… (+) Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.
Not long ago Sofie purchased the Clos Sous le Chateau, a small monopole in St. Romain, which is perched at the very top of the valley that runs west from Meursault. The 2023 vintage of this wine is excellent, with its elevation providing fine definition and energy. The nose has the precision of a Puligny, and in the mouth there is good concentration. Its persistence on the palate signals a wine that will mature gracefully. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre”… (+) Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre” provides terrific value. It’s one of his most impressive cuvées – regal, refined, complex and vibrant. He’s got exceptional terroir, and he knows how to use it. There’s everything at once – richness, depth, stoniness, length, and polish.
Jasper Morris found that “white clay with plenty of stones lend it some Left Bank minerality, but the superb exposure of the hillside allows the Right Bank richness of fruit to dominate.” We think Collet’s 2023 Montée de Tonnerre shows the completeness for which the vineyard is famous. Serve this with a fine dish from the sea – lobster, scallops, branzino, dover sole, swordfish, etc. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Join us on Thursday nights for the return… (+) Join us on Thursday nights for the return of in-person tastings at the Depot this fall!
Thursday, September 14, 6:30pm: Chablis & the Maconnais
Explore white Burgundies from outside the Côte d'Or.
Gautheron Chablis 1er Montmains 2021
Collet Chablis 1er Vaillons 2021
Collet Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2021
Giroux Pouilly-Fuissé VV 2020
Maillet Pouilly-Fuissé 2020
Forces-Telluriques Viré-Clessé 2020
Any purchases of 3+ bottles will be credited back the $50 tasting fee. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $50 | |
 | Morey’s vines in this plot are over 40… (+) Morey’s vines in this plot are over 40 years old, and produce small, perfectly ripe berries year in and year out. This results in an intense, sappy wine with dark flavor, dark color, and a smooth, concentrated mouthfeel. We were amazed at how rich and masculine the flavor was, particularly so far from the soils of the Côte de Nuits.
The nose is dark and woodsy, showing intense black raspberry and licorice. The mouth is intense but smooth and long, with gingerbread, spice, and blackberry jam. Tasted blind we’d put this somewhere in southern Nuits-St-Georges or northern Gevrey Chambertin. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $52 | |
 | One of our favorites recent second wine discoveries… (+) One of our favorites recent second wine discoveries is the Murmure du Larcis Ducasse, a St-Emilion Grand Cru. Chateau Larcis Ducasse is a well known estate whose flagship label “flirts with perfection” in good vintages (Jeb Dunnuck). If you’re in need of a serious, mature, sub-$60 Bordeaux, look no further.
James Suckling gave the 2018 Murmure a 95, just two points behind the flagship label that year, finding it “elegant…juicy, and fleshy texture…savory…such balance.” This wine stole the show at our tasting in January, and we’re delighted it’s finally arrived. Among a crowded field of other St-Emilions, this showed a beautiful floral nose with violets and plum, and lush, very fresh fruit. The mouth is sturdy and rich, and every tannin is coated in gorgeous ripe fruit. Drink with steak.
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 | Chateau Cantemerle is an extremely old property (dating… (+) Chateau Cantemerle is an extremely old property (dating back to the 12th century), recognized as a “fifth growth” in the 1855 classification. This is the most serious of the three, with a gorgeous, deep, outstanding nose showing wild cherries, tobacco, and just a hint of spice. The mouth is sturdy and extremely well built, with tremendous concentration and a long impeccably balanced finish. There’s dark, rich fruit, solid structure, and impressive freshness. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $52 | |
 | As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
Montmains premier cru “Vieilles Vignes” is exceptional in 2023. The balance is just beautiful, with good roundness in the mouth, plenty of freshness at the same time, and extraordinary persistence on the palate. The 80 year age of these vines has something to do with the exceptional results, but vinification also plays a part. For a part of this wine Cyril has used a 3500 liter wooden cuve, which delivers micro-oxygenation without much movement of the lees, making the wine less focused and a bit more open. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $52 | |
 | The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes… (+) The Bonnefonds produce exceptional red wines, with notes of dark fruits and spice. They are rich without being heavy – only 13% alcohol – and there’s an attractive liveliness often lacking in Syrah from the Southern Hemisphere. Bonnefond wines will age with no trouble for ten or more years.
Their Côte Rôtie shows plum, roasted meats and black pepper; the mouth is spiced and dense, showing olives and dark chocolate, and a hint of smoke. The inky tannins here are firm but not harsh, and with a few hours in a carafe this is a lovely glass of wine. We wouldn’t be the first to volunteer to work the vertigo-inducing “fields” of Bonnefond’s vineyards, but we’re certainly glad someone does. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge… (+) The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it.
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 | Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux… (+) Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux, comes from the area surrounding Reims. But Robin is in the increasingly popular Côte des Bar, a southern satellite subregion of Champagne about half way between Reims and Dijon.
The Secret de Sorbée is fermented partially in barrel and left on the lees for over two years. The resulting wine is toasty and fresh with lovely apple fruit and floral notes. The Guide Hachette awarded a star, and called it “at once round and tart,” with a “pleasant, intense fruit expression.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the… (+) “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the 2022 red Burgundies; “very good wines and plenty of them.” William Kelley calls them “succulent, suave and charming”, “offering excellence in both colors and in a wide variety of styles.” Roger Belland's reds are entirely classic, with ripe modern fruit but traditional, low-alcohol textures.
Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Beauregard” is delicious in this vintage. After a few minutes in the glass, its sunny ripe fruit begins to emerge. In the mouth it is particularly pleasant, fresh enough but not brisk, and round but not too mouth filling. The combination gives it an elegant feel, with ripe tannins providing support at the back end. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines… (+) Vessigaud is a committed biodynamic vigneron whose wines are Demeter certified, the highest organic classification. In the bottle this translates to superb purity and clarity, with careful elevage and excellent balance. As William Kelley puts it, “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
Pouilly-Fuissé 1er cru “Vignes Blanche” is rich, smooth, and vibrant, with unusual power and depth. Even here Vessigaud eschews new oak, opting for 5-year-old demi-muids (large 600L barrels) for a year. He’s right, of course – the wine wants for nothing, showing notes of brioche, pear, and chalk with a long, sleek, shimmering finish. “This is achingly good – simply excellent wine,” writes critic Bill Nanson. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines… (+) Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines “gorgeous…all showing the natural richness of Ambonnay,” and writing they “have been favorites of mine for years, because of their quality, personality, and exceedingly fair prices.” Ambonnay is known as Pinot Noir country, where extra clay and warm southern exposure lend themselves well to the red grape.
Courtier’s base “Cuvée Tradition” is simply exquisite grower Champagne at a remarkable price. It’s super expressive exploding from the glass with notes of spring flowers, pear, raspberries, herbs and brioche. At 6g dosage and a blend of 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay it’s dry but full of fruit, and the texture is at once lush and crisp. This is accessible, affordable, downright tasty Champagne – full of character, flavor, and life. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $54 | |
 | “Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis… (+) “Fleur Enchantée,” is an homage to winemaker Denis Basset family’s horticultural roots. It comes from 50 year-old Syrah vines, which give exceptional depth and intensity. It’s noticeably more concentrated and intense than Étincelle, shows a bit more new oak, and offers more complexity — a bit of black olive and smokiness along with the fruit. It can be cellared for up to eight or ten years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
 | Though we no longer offer Caroline Lestimé’s brilliant… (+) Though we no longer offer Caroline Lestimé’s brilliant wines under her traditional Jean-Noël Gagnard label through our regular channels, we’re excited to have a few of her “negoce” cuvées in stock – both of this year’s show off Caroline’s technical cellar chops, and carry the signature glossy Gagnard character.
The nose is bright and perfumy, with lemon, stones and faint herbs. The mouth shows beautiful sucrocité, with a sleek round texture that finishes vibrant and fresh. As with all of Caroline’s wines, the interplay of oak, fruit and earth is seamless. With its excellent freshness we expect this to drink well for a number of years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
 | Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.
Santenay 1er cru “Beauregard” offers excellent value. This is full bodied white Burgundy, rich and round, with notes of oak mingled with ripe fruit. And the paradox of the 2020 whites – vibrant freshness in a hot year – is on full display. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
 | The world has by now discovered St-Aubin, the… (+) The world has by now discovered St-Aubin, the once secret town tucked away up a valley between Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. But even if it’s less hidden than it once was, its wines are better than ever. At the western edge of the appellation lies a plot named “Murgers des Dents de Chiens.” Perched just up the hill from Montrachet itself, this St. Aubin premier cru is a remarkable value.
Gerard Thomas’s 2022 St-Aubin "Murgers" shows terrific concentration, with ripe lemon fruit blending perfectly into a chiseled mineral core. On the palate it’s crackling and savory, with a long and tense finish that’s vibrant and lithe. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found it “rich, creamy and inviting…lots of spice on the palate,” concluding “fresh, flavorful and full of fruit.”
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 | Lespault-Martillac’s 2016 blanc is a blend of 70% Sauvignon… (+) Lespault-Martillac’s 2016 blanc is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon – it’s barrel fermented and then given a 10 month elevage. The nose is dry, floral, and expressive with notes of citrus, lavender, lime zest and candle wax. The mouth is simply beautiful – fully mature with terrific tension and chalky minerality amid the beautiful golden pear fruit. The Wine Advocate’s reviewer gave 92 points, finding “oodles of freshness and plenty of pear-laced flavor;” Antonio Galloni in Vinous called it “one of the more pleasant wines” of the vintage. We put this in the same class as a well aged white Burgundy, maybe from Puligny or St-Aubin – serve with a fine meal on a weekend afternoon.
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 | This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie… (+) This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie Bohrmann, a domaine in Meursault whose wines we discovered in a Beaune restaurant. Her wines are quietly brilliant, many hailing from well-known vineyards in St-Aubin, Puligny and Meursault. Her 2022 white Burgundies are terrific – low in alcohol, full of ripe fruit and excellent freshness, with terrific concentration and appealing textures.
At the village level Sofie's St. Aubin’s “Champ Tirant” comes from vines replanted in 2016, which came into production in 2020. There’s plenty of gras (fat) in this wine, but there is also good supporting freshness. It's creamy and delicious, with the weight of a premier cru but a quicker finish. A crowd pleaser at an excellent price. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
| Boursot’s newest cuvée is their Savigny-les-Beaune, a village that… (+) Boursot’s newest cuvée is their Savigny-les-Beaune, a village that comes with less fame and a significant discount from the better known appellations. Savigny’s terroir naturally tends toward linear wines with tension and minerals, notes that play beautifully in a year of heat and drought. The Boursots use 25% amphora and 25% oak for this cuvée, and the result is a pleasant, fresh, extremely drinkable wine. The nose shows cherries and limestone, the mouth is floral and pleasant, with delicate tannins amid the deep inky fruit. Bill Nanson of the “Burgundy Report” writes “wide and perfumed…you might guess Chambolle…simply excellent.” Serve this with duck confit or a creamy chicken, and watch the wine slice effortlessly through the fat. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
 | Baron de Brane Margaux 2018 is a second… (+) Baron de Brane Margaux 2018 is a second wine from the famous Margaux chateau Brane-Cantenac, a second growth property. This is 60% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Carménère. This wine stood out particularly for the nose. It has the high toned silky character of classic Margaux that’s somehow both elegant and musclular. The mouth is no slouch though, with an extremely well balanced mouthfeel showing graphite, earth, cassis and an old-school weight and shape. It’s more serious and less lush than the Murmure, as you’d expect from something on the Left Bank, but is drinking just as well now. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
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 | Justine Clerget now runs her tiny family estate… (+) Justine Clerget now runs her tiny family estate in Vougeot. Since her arrival she’s introduced organic viticulture, refined extraction, and added some whole cluster fermentation. The resulting wines are superb modern Burgundies, full and long with excellent detail and perfect balance. If this is what the Burgundy of the future tastes like, sign us up.
Bourgogne 2023, JM 88-89:"Bright mid ruby with a pleasing fresh red fruit. Old vines did not yield too much. Very lively on the palate, with a deep almost lush cherry and raspberry fruit with a well-disciplined finish. Delicious." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $55 | |
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 | In most years this cuvée is an excellent… (+) In most years this cuvée is an excellent buy -- a beautifully made Côte Rôtie for under $60. But in 2015, it’s nothing short of a steal. In a vintage where Northern Rhône reds have been called “the best in 55 years,” the Colline de Couzou is an exceptional wine and a great value.
The nose shows black pepper, olive, and blackberry; the mouth is very dense, elegantly textured, and extremely long, with notes of anise, plum jam, and cloves. Josh Raynolds of Vinous awarded 91-93 points, finding “silky tannins” and “excellent clarity.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond’s 2016s “as graceful… (+) Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond’s 2016s “as graceful a group of wines as I’ve ever sampled.” And graceful is an apt word -- they are long and silky, with beautiful tension and gorgeous texture.
The 2016 Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” shows notes of anise, plum jam, and cloves. Vinous awarded 92 points, finding “cassis and violet,” “an energizing jolt of cracked pepper,” and calling it “sappy, smooth and long.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | As you may have read, 2016 was a… (+) As you may have read, 2016 was a wonderful growing season in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It was easy on the vignerons, a welcome respite after a series of vintages that tested their skills. The 2016 red from the Domaine André lives up to our very high expectations.
The nose is lovely and expressive, with deep, dark fruit. The wine fills the mouth beautifully, with plenty of tannins that are already silky. It is a vintage of “lace and elegance,” to quote Jacqueline. This is a big wine with the capacity to live for decades, but it is also a wine that will offer much pleasure in its early years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Josh Raynolds (91-93 points) found the regular cuvée… (+) Josh Raynolds (91-93 points) found the regular cuvée “sweet, seamless, and focused on the palate, where a smoky mineral quality sharpens primary black/blue fruit liqueur flavors.” He is right.
We found it richer than the 2016, but the weight of the wine is enormously attractive; it’s in the heart of the sweet spot between too much extraction and too little. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Picamelot’s Brut “Les Terroirs” is the regular cuvée. It is… (+) Picamelot’s Brut “Les Terroirs” is the regular cuvée. It is a blend similar to most Champagnes, including both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. To reflect faithfully the terroirs of Burgundy, Chautard chooses Aligoté for the third grape. The result is a smooth and drinkable glass of wine, with the fine bubbles that come from raising the wine by the traditional méthode champenoise.
Whenever you’re not quite sure what to pair with a dish, crémant is a good choice. We also much enjoy it as a sparkling kir — an apéritif with Crème de Cassis mixed in. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | On the Domaine du Tunnel, Vinous’s Josh Raynolds… (+) On the Domaine du Tunnel, Vinous’s Josh Raynolds writes “This domaine, by my estimation, is among the top producers of Cornas, but production is small and widely spread, making them hard to track down.” Winemaker Stéphane Robert oaks even his fanciest cuvées with only 10% new oak, allowing the purity and depth of fruit to show through.
Tunnel’s 2018 Cornas (Vinous 93, Wine Advocate 90-92) is the quickest to mature — both Vinous and Wine Advocate suggested a drinking window beginning in the next few years. They found notes of “incense” and “raspberry preserve,” with “ripe, silky tannins,” and “an impressively long, sappy finish.” Raynolds concluded “this is really quite elegant.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single… (+) Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single most impressive set of bottlings I have had here since I started annual visits in 2005.”
The Bonnefonds’ regular cuvée of Côte Rôtie, “Colline de Couzou,” is no ordinary entry level wine. Raynolds called it “awfully impressive” and “distinctly suave,” awarding it 93 points. We found the dark, ripe fruit just lovely, with added notes of pepper, minerals, and maybe a touch of iodine. The 2018 vintage of this wine blew us away; we’d compare it to the Rochins cuvée in a less favorable year. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Thirtysomething winemaker Romain Decelle is part of a… (+) Thirtysomething winemaker Romain Decelle is part of a winemaking family stretching from Bordeaux to Burgundy, and today he farms 24 hectares of Syrah and Viognier in St-Joseph and Côte Rôtie. Finally, de Boisseyt’s Condrieu, a pure viognier wine vinified in barrel. Their 2018 Condrieu is lovely and classic, a dry and concentrated version of the famously aromatic wine. Look for restrained oak alongside notes of peaches and white flowers. This is delicious and tightly wound, middle-weight rather than huge, and intense rather than explosive. It’s less sweetly floral than Bonnefond’s, and perhaps more serious. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Condrieu is the exotic white wine from Viognier… (+) Condrieu is the exotic white wine from Viognier, a grape once unknown outside the region, but now grown widely around the world. Nowhere else does it make a wine to rival those of Condrieu. These wines are all about their magical aromas, and should be served in your largest balloon glasses. Unlike other high-end wines, they’re not for long keeping, and you should enjoy your Condrieu in the five years after the harvest. De Boisseyt’s Condrieu “Carbonne” 2020 is a classic example of the wine, with ripe aromas of exotic fruit, including pineapple, apricot and aromas of white peach. Serve this wine outdoors on a soft summer night, or as an aperitif beside a December fire in your fireplace (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | On Bordeaux’s right bank in the towns of… (+) On Bordeaux’s right bank in the towns of St-Emilion and Pomerol, Merlot finds its finest expression in clay-rich soils. Particularly in the winter, we love the smooth velvety texture and firm shape of Pomerol, and we’re delighted to introduce our newest find in Pomerol: the Château Bel-Air, from 2016.
Now 8 years on from harvest, this wine is simply a delight – it was a hit at our warehouse tasting on Saturday. The nose is beautiful and deep with inky violets and plums in the nose – perfume and lush fruit abound. Antonio Galloni of Vinous gave 91 points, calling it “powerful, explosive Pomerol” with “plenty of immediacy and sheer appeal.” Drink this now from a decanter with a cassoulet or wintery stew, or age it another few years for a softened, velvety delight. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Wine writer Josh Raynolds recently wrote of Goubert… (+) Wine writer Josh Raynolds recently wrote of Goubert, “the wines today show a good deal of polish, in a positive way, with just the right degree of earthiness and grip to remind of their origins.” Winemaking at the domaine is in sure hands these days as Florence Cartier has progressively taken over from her father as principal winemaker.
It’s a blend of equal parts Grenache and Syrah, chosen from the best patches of vines. With it the Cartiers indulged their fondness for red Burgundy by raising the wine in small oak barrels, half of them new, for two years. This makes a big wine that generally needs time to knit together, but the results are complex and ageworthy, and easily rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines… (+) Antonio Galloni of Vinous calls the Coutier wines “gorgeous…all showing the natural richness of Ambonnay,” and writing they “have been favorites of mine for years, because of their quality, personality, and exceedingly fair prices.”
Their Blanc de Blancs is extra brut (5g dosage) and unusual for the town (Ambonnay), combining the richness from the soils with the energy of Chardonnay. Galloni writes that this cuvée “remains one of the hidden gems in Champagne.” As you’d expect this is finer than Coutier's Tradition, longer and steely with less fruit and more tension. The nose shows notes of chalk, magnolia, lemon zest and stones, with a clear, chalky texture that’s precise and very elegant. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule… (+) Fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.” Their old vines produce intense, teeth-staining Syrah, with extraordinary depth but remarkable freshness.
Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2022 is terrific, a symphony of spice and deep black fruit. At 13% alcohol it’s sunny and ripe without an ounce of heaviness, the calling card of top Northern Rhône reds. The nose is deep and perfumed with notes of dark cherry, spices, cocoa and cured meats. The mouth is dark and rich but with sturdy tannin and a pleasant savory element. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Wine writer Rajat Parr describes St. Aubin as… (+) Wine writer Rajat Parr describes St. Aubin as the “insider’s white Burgundy.” Wedged in a valley between Chassagne and Puligny, this town produces white Burgundy with hints of Montrachet’s golden richness, but a less stratospheric price tag. St-Aubin has become rarer and pricier like everything else in Burgundy, but it’s still far more affordable than its famous neighbors.
At the western edge of the St. Aubin appellation lies a plot named “Murgers des Dents de Chiens.” Perched just up the hill from Montrachet itself, this St. Aubin 1er cru is a remarkable value. It’s everything that white Burgundy should be – rich, refreshing, complex, and elegant. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for… (+) We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
Pouilly-Fuissé 1er cru “Les Reisses” is from a marl and limestone plot called “Vers Pouilly,” also in the village of Fuissé. The vines here are between 60 and 80 years old — about twice as old as those in “Vignes Blanches.” Such vines make a lot of millerandage (grapes of various sizes that have a high skin-to-juice ratio), which produces concentrated wine of greater power and length. Elevage here is leisurely, with 12 months in 5 year old demi-muids (600L barrels) followed by six months in stainless steel. Persistence on the palate is particularly noteworthy in “Les Reisses” 2023, and its prominent mineral line carries through to the end. This is a focused and precise wine, more reminiscent of a Puligny-Montrachet than a Chassagne-Montrachet. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
| Cornas is pure Syrah like the rest of… (+) Cornas is pure Syrah like the rest of the Northern Rhône, but the feel is of something sunnier from further South. Today fifth generation winemaker Nicolas Serrette farms a miniscule 1.8 hectares (4 acres) in Cornas. Simon Field MW of Berry Brothers writes of the Dumien-Serrette wines’ “granitic splendor” and “beguiling floral elegance which sets them apart.”
Their primary cuvée is called “Patou,” made from 80+ year old syrah vines – and that’s their “young vine” bottling. The 2023 is terrific, and follows a similar pattern to the 2023 red Burgundies: it bears a strong resemblance to the 2022s, but with more lift and energy. Once upon a time a tasting of young Cornas would be considered work, and you might have to brush your teeth afterwards – but not today. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $58 | |
 | Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and… (+) Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and an excellent entree to the collection. A blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this wine has the complexity and depth to match the finest bottles from Burgundy or Bordeaux. This year’s Traditionnel contains wine mostly from 2012, and we found it even better than last year’s. The nose shows plum and lemon and buttered biscuits; the mouth is dry, elegant, and smooth, with notes of apple and toast. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | |
 | The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru “Clos Pitois” rouge is… (+) The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru “Clos Pitois” rouge is particularly nice this year. It offers a toastier nose, with fruit that’s a bit more focused and less prominent than the 2017 Santenay Beauregard rouge. Think black currants vs. dark cherries.
A pleasant minerality mingles with the fruit. We’d likely wait six months or so before trying a bottle, but we expect the wine to be a classic Côte de Beaune red before long. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 | |
 | The 2018 vintage delivered the warmest summer in… (+) The 2018 vintage delivered the warmest summer in decades, and the resulting wines are big, muscly, ripe and full-bodied,
Mégard's 2018 Pommard is a classic of the town. The nose is pretty and exotic, with soy sauce and spices alongside the classic raspberry fruit. The mouth shows dry blackberries, with a long mouthfeel mouthfeel that's elegant but sturdy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $59 |