Red Burgundy Verticals

Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.

Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.

So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.

 

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Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker…
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Sebastien Giroux is a quiet and meticulous winemaker making superb wines of understatement and precision. If some Maconnais whites can verge into overripeness in warm years, Sebastien’s are entirely devoid of heaviness. His careful winemaking – low sulfur, minimal oak, extremely long elevage – results in minimalist wines of precision and grace. Think Thomas Morey Puligny an hour south. Sebastien crafts this magnificent cuvée from a tiny ⅕ hectare plot . The nose is deep and floral with notes of magnolia and gardenia; the mouth is extremely long, with a vigorous attack of rich fleshy fruit and a long, clean, finely channeled finish. We’d put this in a prize fight against lots of far fancier wine from the Côte de Beaune. There’s not much of it, but it’s simply beautiful stuff.
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The 2023 vintage produced wines of tremendous concentration…
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The 2023 vintage produced wines of tremendous concentration, and the Domaine Boursot’s reds are beautiful, fresh, and packed with flavor. Their 2023 Savigny-les-Beaune perfectly combines the crisp delicacy of the terroir with the rich intensity of the vintage. The nose shows wild cherries, cassis, and toast. The mouth is a punch blend of dark modern fruit with chalky precision.
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Perched at the base of the hill of…
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Perched at the base of the hill of Corton, the tiny town of Ladoix lies at the junction between the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. It’s here that the Ravaut family has made wine for generations, and today Vincent Ravaut and his sons are making wines that are truly exciting. They’re certified EU organic, have dialed back oak, have stopped filtering, and have abandoned pigeage to extract their reds.Ravaut’s village level Ladoix Bois Roussot has always been one of our favorite cuvées here and 2023 is right in line with expectations. This wine shows the chiseled stony character for which the appellation is known. The nose is deep and woodsy with strawberry and loads of spice; the mouth texture is terrific, a combination of sweet red fruit and stones. It’s more like the Côte de Nuits-Villages in profile, and again offers excellent value under $50/bot.
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Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and…
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Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and an excellent entree to the collection. A blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this wine has the complexity and depth to match the finest bottles from Burgundy or Bordeaux. This year’s Traditionnel contains wine mostly from 2012, and we found it even better than last year’s. The nose shows plum and lemon and buttered biscuits; the mouth is dry, elegant, and smooth, with notes of apple and toast.
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2019 was the fifth in a string of…
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2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.” The regular cuvée of Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” offers a beautiful nose of sweet fruit mixed with aromas of violets and smoke. It is just lovely in the mouth, with plenty of body. Raynolds called it “hefty and broad yet lively as well, finishing with well-judged tannins and strong, floral-driven persistence.”
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Jacqueline André's 2019 is a triumph. There are…
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Jacqueline André's 2019 is a triumph. There are delicious dark fruits of blackberry and cassis. The wine is dense and rich, with good structure and lots of intensity – “construit” (“built”) she called it. There is excellent complexity too — tiny notes of anise, lavender, thyme, raspberries and more. More than perhaps any other in our portfolio, this wine embodies the term “layers.” And as always, though it is rich, the wine has plenty of freshness. As with all her vintages, we anticipate much pleasure as we watch the 2019 evolve over what will certainly be a long and interesting life.  
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France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east…
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France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east of Burgundy, but in winemaking terms it’s a world away. The Jura is best known for its light reds and idiosyncratic whites. Our tiny producer here is the Domaine Hervé Ligier. Made from Savagnin allowed to oxidize in barrel for an astonishing six years, Vin Jaune is unlike any other wine in the world. Its closest tasting relative is probably a dry fino sherry. The nose is remarkable, with butter, apricot, coffee, almonds, walnuts and more. The mouth is dry and intense, with a pure, distilled flavor and a sleek texture. Pair it with Comté in fondue and it’s one of the iconic food-wine marriages in French culinary history.
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia…
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware.  You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir. The Santenay Grand Clos Roussot is a terrific, punchy Côte de Beaune red with unusual concentration and Morey’s signature polish. Look for dark blue fruits with earth and briary black raspberry. We think its a very good value and should drink well immediately.
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Stephane also produces an excellent cuvée from St-Joseph…
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Stephane also produces an excellent cuvée from St-Joseph, a large appellation that stretches from Cornas in the south to Côte Rôtie in the north. This enormous span covers a wide range of terroirs, and makes the character of St-Joseph hard to pin down. Tunnels vines are all in the south, and we think it’s best considered a JV version of his iconic Cornas. Drawn from 40+ year old vines and clocking in at a cool 13% alcohol, this is vibrant, intense, Syrah with Tunnel’s signature polish and class. There is a pleasant nose of dark fruit supported by exceedingly fine-grained tannins, and also excellent length. Vinous’s reviewer reported that “Vivid red and black cherry, violets and leafy subtleties rise up from the glass….polished and concentrated.”
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Christophe’s Condrieu “Côte Chatillon” is rightly lauded, and…
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Christophe’s Condrieu “Côte Chatillon” is rightly lauded, and would sell out every year even if the only customers were the great restaurants of Lyon. With Condrieu, no patience is required: the wine is all about its beautiful aromas, which grace the wine from the time of bottling. The 2020 has a lovely nose, a clean mixture of flowers and fruit. There are hints of orange blossom, white peach, pear and honeysuckle, all complemented by just a touch of oak. This is the perfect wine for quaffing; pour it into your biggest balloon glass and let it slowly unfold over half an hour or so.
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous…
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better. Vinous 94. "Primary red and blue fruit, violet, allspice and olive on the highly fragrant nose, where a smoky mineral nuance adds vibrant lift. Appealingly sweet, energetic blueberry, cherry and exotic spice flavors spread out steadily on the palate, picking up hints of spiciness and licorice on the back half. Finishes long and lively, with sharp clarity and silky tannins that provide closing shape and grip."
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As is often the case when a new…
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As is often the case when a new generation joins in the winemaking, in recent years the domaine has experimented with micro-cuvées. We found two particularly interesting. First, a cuvée raised in amphora, which allows micro-oxygenation at a level similar to that from small oak barrels, but without the addition of oak flavors. The result is a more fully developed wine, a bit more rounded out but maintaining the freshness of that 13% alcohol level. (This wine will bear the same Forces Telluriques label, but with orange wax around the cork to distinguish it from the gray wax of the regular cuvée). Morris was even more enthusiastic about this one, giving it his 5/5 star award, and writing: “love the balance of this…pears not peaches, with excellent length.”
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous…
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better. Bonnefond’s Condrieu is as good as they come, an opulent bouquet of white peach flowers, and on the palate rich, ripe fruit with an exotic touch: mango, apricot and pineapple.  Condrieu isn’t meant for laying down, which is a good thing because you will want to keep reaching for a bottle of this.
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Vin Jaune represents the highest level of oxidative…
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Vin Jaune represents the highest level of oxidative Savagnin from the Jura. The wine spends more than six years under the veil, over which time a third of the volume evaporates, and the wine transforms into something intense, rich, and complex. Look for a dizzying array of flavors and aromas — walnuts, hazelnuts, caramel, curry, coffee, toast, butter, cocoa, citrus zest, and more. The wine comes in traditional 620ml bottles called “clavelins,” which represents about what’s left after six years of aging 1 liter of wine. What do you do with this wine? Easy — serve it with real Comté, at least 24-36 months old, for one of the world’s iconic food-wine pairings.
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2019 was the fifth consecutive excellent vintage in…
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2019 was the fifth consecutive excellent vintage in the Northern Rhône. Like 2018, it was hot and dry, but unlike 2018, the grapes developed thick skins and less juice. This reduced yields but offered the promise of higher quality in 2019 if the fruit was handled right. Tunnel’s wines are pure, inky syrah — a blend of Northern spiciness (think Bonnefond’s Côte Rôties) and southern sun. Josh Raynolds of Vinous awarded 92-94 points, finding the 2019 Cornas “in a juicy, fruit-driven style, offering appealingly sweet cherry, blackberry and cassis flavors;” and its finish “very long and smooth, with just a hint of fine-grained tannins and persistent spiciness.”
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St. Estephe is at the northern end of…
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St. Estephe is at the northern end of the Haut Médoc, home to the likes of Chateau Cos d’Estournel and Chateau Montrose. The soils of St. Estephe have more clay than those of Pauillac to the immediate south, and this makes for big wines with a dark color and a long life. The 2019 Fleuron de Liot is intense and delicious, showing chocolate powder, black cherry, tobacco and faint herbs. There’s excellent density and perfectly coated tannins — we think this is a candidate to age nicely for 5-8 years.
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The Jura’s best known style of wine is…
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The Jura’s best known style of wine is its intentionally oxidized whites made from the Savagnin grape. Rather than topping up the barrels to prevent exposure to oxygen, Jura winemakers allow a “voile” (veil) of yeast to form on the wine’s surface. The wine rests in barrel under veil for years, over which time the volume decreases and the otherworldly flavors develop. The 2014 Vin Jaune is a treat. The texture is dry and waxy – think a fino sherry but with much fuller and richer mouthfeel. Pair with comté and fondue and it’s one of iconic food-wine marriages of France. But another traditional pairing is our favorite -- chicken thighs in a cream reduction. Throw in some morels, and you’re in for a real experience.
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Whatever the cause, we can confirm that nearly…
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Whatever the cause, we can confirm that nearly every 2020 white Burgundy we’ve tasted has been thrillingly good. And the 2020 white lineup from Domaine Ravaut is no exception. Ravaut’s style of low oak, fine minerality, and focused freshness now plays host to abundant ripeness, and the resulting wines are exciting and delightful. At the village level, Ravaut makes a Ladoix blanc from the Hautes-Mourottes vineyard, which borders the Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne at its northern end. We found this always tasty wine particularly good in 2020 – the nose shows tropical fruit with coconut and spice. There’s excellent intensity and a serious flavor profile, with low sucrocité, dry lemon fruit and plenty of freshness. This is concentrated and impressive.
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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers…
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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny house in Cramant in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. All of their wines come from grapes they grow themselves, and their vineyards are 100% Chardonnay from exclusively Grand Cru vineyards. Everything here is done by hand, from harvesting and riddling to disgorging, dosing and labeling. The base of this wine (around two thirds) is from the 2017 vintage, with the rest from barrels of reserved older wines. After four years on the lees this is rich and toasty, with a lovely nose of pear, apple and buttery croissants. The mouth is crisp and delicious with plenty of richness amid the energetic freshness. William Kelley awarded 90 points, finding “generous aromas…rich and fleshy, with an enveloping core of fruit.”
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Sofie Bohrmann has combined the skillful acquisition of…
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Sofie Bohrmann has combined the skillful acquisition of fine Côte d’Or terroir with a refined winemaking style, and her wines are more sought-after every year. The delicious 2020s are her best work yet. The 2020 St-Aubin 1er "Murgers" is a refined and elegant wine with particularly nice balance. It is round but subtly so, with a solid core and supporting acidity that creeps in gently and carries the wine into a strikingly long finish. Look for notes of golden apples, stones, and almonds.
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In his excellent “The New French Wine” published…
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In his excellent “The New French Wine” published last year, Jon Bonné writes, “Jacqueline André has quietly been upholding the extraordinary quality of her family’s domaine in a manner that legitimately earns the word “artisan.” The wine is surprisingly integrated at this early moment in its life — beautifully balanced with a silky mouthfeel and subtle aromatic complexity already. The 2020 red is not massive yet plenty rich and round. The beautiful Grenache fruit blends with darker tones and a fine mineral line to produce an extraordinary nose.
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia…
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware.  You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir. It’s stonier and finer than the Santenay, combining the precision and lift of the terroir with a ripe-fruited vintage. We found it unusually floral this year, with notes of cassis, roses, and cherry blossom. This ages beautifully and given 3-5 years should be an exceptional, focused red Burgundy.
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In his excellent “The New French Wine” published…
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In his excellent “The New French Wine” published last year, Jon Bonné writes, “Jacqueline André has quietly been upholding the extraordinary quality of her family’s domaine in a manner that legitimately earns the word 'artisan.'” The 2021 vintage was anything but smooth across France, and the Rhône Valley was no exception. But truly great winemakers show their greatness mostly clearly in difficult vintages, and Jacqueline André’s 2021 results put her in that class. Her 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge is elegant and absolutely delicious wine. Grenache always dominates the fruit in her wine, but in 2021 the distinct aromas of dried rose petals join the usual sweet wild strawberries to produce a refined and elegant glass of wine that is strikingly good.
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Vinous’s Nicholas Greinacher puts it well:  “Seldom does…
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Vinous’s Nicholas Greinacher puts it well:  “Seldom does Syrah produce wines of such elegance and detail as it does in Côte-Rôtie, evoking characteristics often associated with Pinot Noir. Usually medium-bodied at most and often red-fruited and hauntingly floral, these wines can dazzle with refinement and finesse.” For more than 20 years we have watched winemaker Christophe Bonnefond's style evolve to emphasize more and more these special characteristics, and the term “dazzling” is often an apt description for his results. Bonnefond's regular cuvée Côte Rôtie Cuvée “Colline de Couzou” is particularly impressive for its balance.  There is plenty of freshness, but it supports beautifully ripe fruit with a fine mouthfeel with papery tannins and a silky finish.  A mineral line joins in, adding slightly earthy notes like black olives; and the nose adds spice, black pepper, and floral overtones of violets.
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting…
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift. Condrieu is round and pleasant in the mouth, but really this wine is all about the aromatics. It is best enjoyed in a balloon glass like those for serving red Burgundy — and swirling in such a vessel produces gorgeous notes of ripe fruit: apricot, pineapple, white peach, and more. We think it’s best enjoyed as an apéritif.
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Grown elsewhere, Viognier can be heavy and flat…
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Grown elsewhere, Viognier can be heavy and flat -- in Condrieu, it reaches magnificence. Condrieu is a tiny appellation -- just over half a square mile of vines. But it produces one of the world’s great white wines, as complex aromatically as it is elegant and mouthfilling on the palate. Bonnefond’s is a masterpiece, achieving soaring balance between minerals, fruit, freshness, aromas and texture. Notes range from gardenia, herb honey, apricot, green tea, and dried mango. The mouth is smooth and rich with notes of peach and pear, and a beautiful grape-skin briskness that balances the mouthcoating texture.
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Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc is simply delicious…
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Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc is simply delicious in 2023, with all the attributes that make Burgundy a mecca for the world’s white wine lovers. The nose offers ripe yellow fruit and wood in good proportion, along with a hint of freshness. The mouth confirms this, where very good volume joins with just the right amount of energy to provide lift and cut, adding mouth-watering freshness to the ripe fruit and the accompanying touch of vanilla. This wine will be an excellent candidate for pairing with food, and should drink well from the outset. An awfully good impression of Chassagne-Montrachet, at half the cost.
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The Domaine Guillemot-Michel from the hamlet of Quintaine…
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The Domaine Guillemot-Michel from the hamlet of Quintaine in the Viré-Clessé appellation has been the project of Pierette and Marc Guillemot-Michel since the 1980’s, now joined by their daughter Sophie and their son-in-law Gautier Roussille. These are honeyed, concentrated wines imbued with remarkable concentration and energy, and they develop beautifully in the cellar.Retour a la Terre 2023 comes from a parcel situated on clay soils, and the elevage is 100% in amphoras, clay vessels, hence the name Return to the Earth. Amphoras deliver micro-oxygenation at about the same rate as Burgundy-size barrels, but without oak flavors, and so this wine is a little more generous at this stage than the Quintaine 2023, which is raised entirely in vats and will develop more slowly. It’s a difference of degree rather than nature, and getting a little of each will help to understand the subtle impact of different elevage.
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Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first…
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Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first we offer of the vintage, and as usual it’s an excellent place to start. They’re decidedly old-school in texture, ranging from 11.5% to 12% in alcohol, and sporting a refined daintiness that’s impossible to resist. These wines will arrive as winter turns to spring, and we expect them to suit the warmer weather season perfectly.Thomas also has a plot in Murgers des Dents de Chien, high on the hill overlooking Montrachet. This is real, classy premier cru white Burgundy. The nose is deeper and slightly darker, with a hint more of woodsiness. The mouth is classic, with lemon curd sucrocité and a beautiful beeswax finish, with more flesh around it. Fresh, clean, mineral, the concentration is there but you don’t really see it until you let the wine linger in the mouth. Great result.
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Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du…
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Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du Tunnel “among the top producers of Cornas.” Star winemaker Stephane Robert farms an envious collection of old syrah vines around the tiny appellation, and his wines very much live up to the hype. Robert is humble and quiet in person, but his wines are bold, assertive, and utterly charming. Tunnel’s 2017 Cornas is a classic -- the warm year produced lots of ripeness, making it juicy and approachable today. But there’s plenty of Cornas’s traditional sturdy foundation. Vinous and Wine Advocate both awarded 92 points, finding it “loaded with blackberries, cassis and plums,” with “very good depth as well as energy” alongside “supple tannins.”
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We have followed the winemaking of Thomas Morey…
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We have followed the winemaking of Thomas Morey for many years now — more than fifteen since his father Bernard retired and split his properties between his sons. As that long stretch has unfolded, our admiration for his style and the quality of his work has only grown. His wines are always clean and pure, made with respect for what the vineyard and season offers in each year, and made to provide pleasure in a wide drinking window.Thomas Morey’s Santenay premier cru Grand Clos Rousseau is from the town that adjoins Chassagne to the south. The slope turns southward there, and the increase in sun makes wine that is more generous and fleshy than the reds of Chassagne. When we tasted the 2023 at the domaine, we found the nose expressive and the fruit dark and ripe. We generally give this wine six months to a year before trying it, and its real character continues to emerge over a few years.
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The 2022 vintage of her red Chateauneuf du…
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The 2022 vintage of her red Chateauneuf du Pape is the last that she saw all the way through to bottling, and no surprise, it is gorgeous. Like a few other great winemakers of her era, Jacqueline made a single cuvée of red wine, blending in all the wine from patches of terroir across the appellation. The 2022 is outstanding – as always, the nose is expressive, showing the wild strawberry fruit of the dominant Grenache, as well as floral notes of violet and maybe a touch of licorice. The weight is medium, with just enough structure and an exceptionally long finish that completes this strikingly elegant wine. André was a master of channeling rich southern grapes in wines of poise and class, and the 2022 is a remarkable achievement.
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Bardoux’s Rosé Champagne is two thirds Pinot Meunier…
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Bardoux’s Rosé Champagne is two thirds Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, and one third Chardonnay. The two dark grapes give gorgeous dry fruit (and color), and the Chardonnay adds freshness and length. This cuvée sits on the lees for three years before disgorgement; only 150 cases made each year. The nose is intense and fresh, with strawberries, crème brûlée, and apple pie. The mouth is crisp and dry but full of springy fruit; wild cherries and roses.
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The 2018 vintage delivered the warmest summer in…
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The 2018 vintage delivered the warmest summer in decades, and the resulting wines are big, muscly, ripe and full-bodied, Mégard's 2018 Pommard is a classic of the town. The nose is pretty and exotic, with soy sauce and spices alongside the classic raspberry fruit. The mouth shows dry blackberries, with a long mouthfeel mouthfeel that's elegant but sturdy.
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Pommard is known for its intensity and bold…
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Pommard is known for its intensity and bold character, but Mégard’s has a lighter touch. Much of it comes from vines year the Volnay border, and the winemaking style is traditional. We’ve stocked the wine in the store for years and it’s become a crowd favorite at Depot tastings in Newton. The nose is expressive and high toned with pretty notes of dried flowers, raspberry and earth. The mouth is sturdy and ripe, but decidedly middle-weight with good freshness and excellent lift – look for notes of cassis, iron, and wild cherries. This is well-priced, delicious, and decidedly old school – even in recent hot vintages the wine retains its Burgundian elegance.
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Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among…
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Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among the brightest names in the humble town of Auxey-Duresses, and a favorite of Vinous writer Neal Martin. Martin characterizes them as an “old-school producer” with “premier crus worth hunting down, as they represent good value.” The Beaune 1er cru “Sizies” is delicious, showing Beaune’s classic stony character amid the inky fruit. The nose is intensely floral, with sweet red fruits and earth. The mouth is bold and very concentrated, but balanced expertly with a mineral line. Martin awarded 91-93 points, finding “pliant tannins…focused and taut,” concluding “this is very promising.”
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot…
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot has become the Domaine Amiot et Fils. Jean-Louis’s brother Didier has gone off on his own, and son Léon has joined Jean-Louis and Chantal in the business.  The 2020 vintage was the third year in a row of unusually hot weather, resulting in a harvest that began in August for the first time in Jean-Louis’s long career. The heat came with an extended dry spell, which contributed to concentration and low yields, but also balanced acidity. The village Gevrey seems to get better every year, and we found the 2020 particularly attractive, with a fine nose of dark fruit, plenty of depth and intensity, and silky-smooth tannins.  Look for violets, cassis, and a delicious briary finish – proof of just how good the winemaking is here these days.
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His Nuits-St-Georges cuvée comes from four plots near…
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His Nuits-St-Georges cuvée comes from four plots near the Vosne-Romanée border, and shows a beautiful mix of the two terroirs: the classic hearty character of Nuits, with a touch of Vosne’s finesse and spice. Gros’s 2020 Nuits-St-Georges has begun to drink beautifully. The wine shows gorgeous aromatics and a fleshy core, with excellent tension and a solid backbone typical of Nuits. Burghound found “chocolate, cassis and dark currant liqueur” notes, calling it “rich, ripe, palate coating and seductively textured” with “very good punch.”
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The trick in Nuits-St-Georges (particularly the middle sector)…
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The trick in Nuits-St-Georges (particularly the middle sector) is to balance the readily available tannin with enough fruit and finesse. The naturally rugged structure of grapes from Nuits lends itself to rusticity if not well tamed. As you might expect from someone who recently celebrated his 40th vintage at the helm of his domaine, Michel has steered this cuvée beautifully, and hit the balance just right. Burghound found “good punch to the mouth coating flavors.” The nose is deep and lovely, with plums, blackberries, toast and spice. The mouth is rich and concentrated, with deep color and even deeper flavor. It’s very 2020 in its blend of concentrated ripe fruit but excellent acidity. We expect it to age beautifully over the next 3-5 years, but as with most 2020s, it’s simply delicious today. Serve with a warm plate of steak frites.
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Across Burgundy the 2022 whites (and reds, for…
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Across Burgundy the 2022 whites (and reds, for that matter) are friendly, lush, balanced, vibrant, and flat out delicious. Sofie’s style is pure and vibrant with limited oak (max 15%). Today we’re suggesting her St-Aubin 1er cru “En Remilly,” a masterpiece from the town’s finest vineyard. The secret is out about St-Aubin, but it still offers terrific value relative to its fancy neighbors. The 2022 Bohrmann En Remilly tastes just like what you’d expect – expertly made wine from a top terroir in an outstanding vintage. It’s lively and generous at the same time: thick and full of a rippling intensity, combining perfectly ripe golden fruit with structure and minerality. Serve with a sole meunière.
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting…
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift. “Colline de Couzou,” is unusually dense and delicious this year – tasted blind we would have guessed it was “Rochins,” one of the single vineyard cuvées. The nose shows douglas fir spice and blackberries; the mouth is long and sleek. Vinous’s reviewer found “fresh violets, red and black cherries, pencil shavings, cedar,” writing “this finishes with great energy.”
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At the Domaine Roger Belland, the domaine is…
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At the Domaine Roger Belland, the domaine is located in Santenay, a town more known for its reds than its whites, but with a flagship monopole in Chassagne-Montrachet’s Morgeot sector, the Clos Pitois. We have chosen the wines that lead the pack here, from both red and white vineyards across the southern Côte d’Or.Belland’s Santenay 1er cru blanc from the Beauregard premier cru vineyard offers among the best price-to-value mixes in the Côte d’Or. The wine opens with a pleasant mix of fruit and oak in the nose, and offers mouthfilling breadth across the palate, with richness that lingers into the finish. It offers first-rate White Burgundy at a considerable discount to its peers. One will need a very sophisticated palate to separate it from Chassagne’s whites.
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