Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for… (+) We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
The Pouilly-Fuissé “Vieilles Vignes” 2023 is the principal cuvée of the domaine, made from 20 small parcels scattered across the Fuissé part of the appellation. The vines range from 40 to 70 years old, face all four points of the compass, and grow in a variety of marl, clay and limestone soils. Elevage for this cuvée is 80% in larger, older, oak barrels, and 20% in concrete vats, all for 18 months. The result is a wine of excellent balance and complexity. A series of very hot days at the end of the 2023 growing season concentrated the grapes, both in freshness and ripeness, making this a big, well balanced Pouilly-Fuissé. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless… (+) A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless attention to detail, Gautier landed at his family’s domaine a decade ago, and has since transformed it into one of the region’s superstars. We find ourselves saying this almost every year, but his 2023s are the best he’s made – ripe and sleek with perfect extraction and maturity, vibrant textures, and elegant, lifting finishes. Gautier called them “digeste” (roughly, “digestible”), which is an excellent characterization.
First, Givry 1er Grand Berge, a large premier cru near the south of town. This has a deep floral nose of roses and stones. The mouth is smooth and delicious with fresh strawberry fruit and a smooth dose of sucrocité. The finish is fresh and very clean, without an ounce of heaviness or raspiness – it’s classically Burgundian, a perfect mixture of fruit, stone and earth. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
 | Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de… (+) Our producer in Sancerre is the Domaine de la Garenne, owned by members of a leading wine-producing family in the town. The Godon-Reverdys produce superb Sancerre at a variety of price points, and their wines are among the most popular in our portfolio.
This cuvée used to be called "Infidele," but is now “Silex” -- it comes from a small parcel laden with flint, whose characteristic aromas include a touch of gunflint smokiness. This wine has always offered extraordinary density and a sumptuous mouthfeel, and that is a feature of the 2023 vintage as well. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $42 | |
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 | Poggerino is a top-notch producer from Chianti in… (+) Poggerino is a top-notch producer from Chianti in Italy. Nearly all of our winemakers are French, but we carve out a small exception for Piero and Benedetta Lanza in Radda. Rajat Parr calls their pure Sangiovese wines “some of the purest expressions of [Sangiovese] in Italy.” Wine Spectator calls their wines “impeccably balanced.”
Antonio Galloni awarded the 2018 Bugialla 94 points, calling it “a bold, dramatic wine.” This is especially opulent wine, full and generous on the palate. Look for a regal, almost Bordeaux-like nose, with notes of plum, cedar, and stones. Galloni praised its layers of “black cherry, mocha, lavender, licorice and spice." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.
Commes is on the upper part of the slope and the wine it produces is more precise, with excellent density and very fine tannins. It is just a touch lighter in weight than Gravieres, and refinement is its particular virtue. It has a lovely mineral line, and the only 20% whole cluster fermentation gives it a less structured, softer feel. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Vincent Ravaut’s family domaine lies at the northern… (+) Vincent Ravaut’s family domaine lies at the northern end of the Côte de Beaune, in the little known town of Ladoix. Though the names of the town and family are largely under the radar, the wines need not be, and generations of local customers have bought them happily.
The 2020 Ladoix 1er cru “Bois Roussot” manages to be both lively and hearty. The vintage delivered darker fruit than we often see here: it is black currants that mingle with toast and earth. Yet there is plenty of freshness and supple tannin, so the wine should age gracefully for many years. This is a wine that will show its best at the table, complementing a roast of pork, beef, or veal. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | The family who creates this wine are true… (+) The family who creates this wine are true believers in the theory of biodynamics — minimal vineyard intervention in the vines, meticulous and hands-off winemaking. William Kelley calls them “one of the best producers in the Mâconnais “ producing “ honeyed, concentrated wines that are imbued with remarkable concentration and energy.”
The 2021 Forces Telluriques is a triumph. The domaine harvested slowly, over about 15 days, achieving 13.2% naturally – a real feat in a cool vintage. The resulting wine is superb, showing ripeness without weight, a wine that is lively and alive. Kelley gave 93 points, finding “Aromas of clear honey, white flowers, beeswax and sweet spices” calling it “a suave and vibrant wine that's satiny, bright and fine-boned, concluding with a bright, gently exotic finish.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | The soil in this special plot is the… (+) The soil in this special plot is the same mix of marl, clay, and limestone found on the Hill of Corton, and Gros’s white echoes the famous floral and chalky qualities of Corton-Charlemagne. The 2021 is excellent, unwinding beautifully in the glass over a half hour. There’s gardenia and magno in the nose, with a vibrant mouth full of dry fruit and beautiful mineral tension. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found it “impressive and classy.” Serve this blind and your guests will call Santenay or Chassagne.
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 | Sourced from old vines, crafted by a masterful… (+) Sourced from old vines, crafted by a masterful winemaker, and given (like his Meursaults) an exceptionally long 22 months of elevage before bottling, Boyer’s 2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or is a triumph – far closer to a village Meursault than a humble regional-level wine.
We found Vincent’s 2021 Bourgogne his best yet, and we weren’t alone in our enthusiasm. Burghound gave it his “outstanding” distinction, finding “white orchard fruit and orange peel,” with “excellent punch and delineation,” from “delicious medium weight flavors” and a “sneaky long finish.” He concluded, simply, “Lovely.” We agree – the nose shows Boyer’s signature blend of golden fruit and focused minerals. The mouth is rich and smooth, with terrific concentration for its level (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Nicolas Ragot is our newest Côte Chalonnaise source… (+) Nicolas Ragot is our newest Côte Chalonnaise source, and one of the leading producers in Givry. He makes ample use of amphoras, which give his wines an appealing patina and exquisite freshness. William Kelley calls his reds “supple and flavorful,” Jancis Robinson writes of their “purity” and “classiness,” and Neal Martin of Vinous finds them “caressing,” “fleshy,” and “excellent.”
the 2022 Grand Berge is terrific, with exquisite, refined tannins and a dusty, beautiful fruit profile. The nose is more serious than the village level Givry, and the jump to premier cru is apparent in the length and refinement. This is serious, very classy red Burgundy, and a remarkable value – we expect it to age well for 5+ years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Nicolas Ragot is our newest Côte Chalonnaise source… (+) Nicolas Ragot is our newest Côte Chalonnaise source, and one of the leading producers in Givry. He makes ample use of amphoras, which give his wines an appealing patina and exquisite freshness. William Kelley calls his reds “supple and flavorful,” Jancis Robinson writes of their “purity” and “classiness,” and Neal Martin of Vinous finds them “caressing,” “fleshy,” and “excellent.”
The nose shows violet and cassis, the mouth bursts with fleshy red cherry fruit and a bit of cracked pepper. We think it’d hold its own against a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin, and certainly wouldn’t be the weaker of the two. It requires no patience and we expect will prove a loyal companion to steak-frites. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
| Vinous's Antonio Galloni writes: "Piero Lanza makes wines… (+) Vinous's Antonio Galloni writes: "Piero Lanza makes wines of notable character that capture all the finesse of Radda. I find a purity in these wines that is incredibly distinctive."
Piero Lanza's Chianti Classico “Riserva Bugialla” 2020 has even greater aging potential than the regular cuvée. Galloni called it a “potent, brooding wine” and gave “93+” points. He found that “macerated dark cherry, licorice, leather, tobacco and smoke all flesh out over time.” The wine spent nearly two months on the skins, followed by malolactic in cement and two years in large oak casks. Galloni thought that “this young, potent Riserva has a bright future.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s
Fourneaux premier cru “Vieilles Vignes” 2022 saw 15% oak, which contributes roundness and complexity. Its most impressive feature, however, is its showy length on the palate, a result of the old vine concentration. The balance of depth, energy, fruit and stones here is just terrific. We expect lovely evolution and a long, happy life for this wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s
This Montmains cuvée, from old vines, is magnificent this year. Impeccable balance amid lush fruit and piercing stones. Morris gave it his coveted 5 star rating, awarding 92-95 pts and writing "This has the requisite bite, the reductive crunch with massive intensity, all the power without the heaviness. Very fine long aftertaste. A classic in the making." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
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 | This wine transcends the genre in a way… (+) This wine transcends the genre in a way few other bottles do – if you told us it was a village Gevrey we’d believe you – humble in appellation, but striking in taste. Cheron used 100% whole clusters, adding definition to the dark fruit.
This is the most complex and elegant red Bourgogne in our portfolio. The nose is deep and beautiful with intense dark fruit but excellent lift – there’s a stony earthiness behind the plums that’s balanced and enticing. The mouth is clear, long, and nimble, bouncing from wild cherries to anise to black pepper and back to cassis. Burghound praised its “racy, delicious, well detailed flavors.” It offers immediate enjoyment, but should cellar a year or two with ease. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on… (+) Gautier’s 2022s show a talented winemaker firing on all cylinders. He has refined his cellar technique considerably, using gentler extractions, and focused his barrel work through exhaustive (some might say obsessive) experimentation and tasting. The resulting wines easily rival reds from the Côte d’Or in detail and complexity, and simply blow them away on price.
The 'Cuvée Ozymandias' is a blend of two of Givry's 1er Cru parcels: 'Le Vernoy' and 'Crémillons' - both located to the southwest of the village around his hamlet of Poncey. Gautier works with small parcels of relatively young Pinot Noir vines here (aged between 7 to 11 years old) planted on clay-limestone soils. There's brilliant clarity to this cuvée, with excellent detail and a long tense finish -- think Volnay but an hour further south. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Gautier Desvignes has become well known among our… (+) Gautier Desvignes has become well known among our readers (and in the wine press) for his gorgeous, affordable, beautifully crafted Burgundies from Givry. William Kelley of the Wine Advocate calls him “one of the leading lights in the Côte Chalonnaise.” But alongside a stellar lineup of reds that grab most of the attention, Desvignes is also a skilled crafter of whites Burgundies. His minimal use of oak and careful fermentation achieves white Givrys with terrific balance of fruit, freshness, and minerals.
Gautier’s 2022 village level “En Cheneves” is crisp and precise with a lovely mix of stones and yellow fruit. It’s 90% Chardonnay with 10% Pinot Blanc, a combination that gives beautiful aromatics with classy and concentrated texture. (Picture a particularly accessible St-Aubin, but at a discount.) It’s light on oak, and mostly about ripe springtime fruit – easy and friendly. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | We’ve long enjoyed the delicious and well-priced St-Emilion… (+) We’ve long enjoyed the delicious and well-priced St-Emilion from Chateau Montlisse. Made from 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, it’s a rich, velvety blend with a classic combination of dark fruit and spice, but well supported by a solid backbone and lively freshness. We’ve just received the terrific 2019, and it’s as good as ever.
From a magnificent vintage, the 2019 Château Montlisse is everything you want from a sub-$50 Bordeaux: smooth and elegant, with mellow fruit and gorgeous earthy notes, and a solid core of structure and concentration. Look for notes of plums and toast with cassis, dark chocolate and dried violets. Neal Martin in Vinous cited “fine grained tannins and well judged acidity,” concluding, “this is a classy offering from Montlisse.” Pour this with a steak salad or this hearty Mushroom Farro. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | We found Piero’s 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva extraordinary – perhaps… (+) We found Piero’s 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva extraordinary – perhaps the best vintage he’s made. It’s long and sleek, packed with deep black fruit and tension. The oak is already integrated beautifully, as are the tannins. It will drink better young than recent vintages, but has more than enough material to go the distance. Galloni thought the 2021 Bugialla “another superb offering,” and awarded 94 points, finding “macerated black cherry, dried herbs, lavender and spice, all [ ] amplified in the glass.” Bear in mind that Riservas are big wines and generally need a few years to show their finer points. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless… (+) A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless attention to detail, Gautier landed at his family’s domaine a decade ago, and has since transformed it into one of the region’s superstars. We find ourselves saying this almost every year, but his 2023s are the best he’s made – ripe and sleek with perfect extraction and maturity, vibrant textures, and elegant, lifting finishes. Gautier called them “digeste” (roughly, “digestible”), which is an excellent characterization.
At the northern end of town lies the Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé,” a Givry of a different character. This is finer and more chiseled, with beautiful detail and loads of dark fresh fruit. The tannins are fine grained and seamless, with pretty notes of rose petals and cool berries. It has the weight of a Beaune 1er cru, with a stony freshness amid the perfectly detailed fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless… (+) A humble thirtysomething winemaker with a near limitless attention to detail, Gautier landed at his family’s domaine a decade ago, and has since transformed it into one of the region’s superstars. We find ourselves saying this almost every year, but his 2023s are the best he’s made – ripe and sleek with perfect extraction and maturity, vibrant textures, and elegant, lifting finishes. Gautier called them “digeste” (roughly, “digestible”), which is an excellent characterization.
The Givry 1er cru “Clos du Vernoy” is the domaine’s monopole, and it’s beautiful this year. Located just behind the domaine, this is the most serious of Gautier’s cuvées – the most ambitious and probably the most impressive, given time. It is tightly wound with notes of plum, cassis and cool earth: compact and well built, with inky tannins to match the gorgeous fruit. Try this in six months and you’ll be really impressed; try it in 18 months and you might trade in your stock of Gevrey-Chambertin for more of it.
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 | Gautier Desvignes's Givry 1er cru “Grand Vignes” is… (+) Gautier Desvignes's Givry 1er cru “Grand Vignes” is more serious than the village-level Givry blanc – it’s hands down the best vintage of this wine we’ve tried. Gautier raises this entirely in oak, with ⅕ new barrels. The nose is exquisite and detailed, with golden apple fruit and delicate stones. The mouth is floral and long with wonderful length across a bursting and juicy palate that finishes clean and delightful. We’d put this in the same category as a St-Aubin from Thomas Morey or Sophie Bohrmann, and it comes at a serious discount. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Borhmann’s Bourgogne vines are across the RN-74 from… (+) Borhmann’s Bourgogne vines are across the RN-74 from Pommard. At 35 years old, they’re more mature than many Bourgogne-level vines, and their fruit produces a wine of real complexity. She uses 70% whole clusters, giving the wines excellent definition and exquisite tension.
The nose shows seductive, crushed ripe red fruits, overlaid with a soft floral character – an unmistakably Côte de Beaune profile. The mouth is perfectly ripe, smooth, and delicious, with fine chalky tannin supporting the bursting fruit. The 2023s possess an extraordinary balance of fruit, tension, and texture – the bottle on our Thanksgiving table evaporated with haste. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Romain Collet is one of the most exciting… (+) Romain Collet is one of the most exciting talents in our portfolio. He’s the energetic and innovative grandson of Jean Collet, the domaine’s founder. He experiments with all of today’s means of elevage, so a visitor to the cellars now walks past not only stainless steel tanks and large oak foudres, but also cement eggs, clay amphoras, and barrels of all sizes, from traditional Burgundian to demi-muids holding 400 or 500 liters.
Among our favorites is Romain's Chablis 1er cru cuvée from “Forêts,” a terroir made famous by Dauvissat’s iconic cuvée. Romain uses large concrete eggs for his Forêts cuvée, and the wine has a smoothed layer of fruit over the piercing Chablis acidity. The resulting wine is dry, dynamic and delicious, at once mouthfilling and bursting with saline and zip. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | The Domaine is run these days by Romain… (+) The Domaine is run these days by Romain Collet, the energetic and talented grandson of Jean Collet, the founder. Romain skillfully matches the new and old techniques with the various terroirs, crafting delicious and varied wines with much character. The result is a wide selection, in which something can be found to please every palate.
In Butteaux the ground is just a bit cooler, contributing more briskness and just enough fat. Butteaux 2023 began its elevage in tank and finished in older Burgundian barrels. As between these two Montmains siblings, Forêts offers a bit more richness, Butteaux a bit more steely energy and salinity. The mouth is very dry and tense, with less fruit than Forêts. In some years this approaches a Côte d’Or white; this year Collet has dialed the oak way down, and it’s almost imperceptible. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Jasper Morris MW : “deliciously floral…amazing how such… (+) Jasper Morris MW : “deliciously floral…amazing how such a luxurious style of chardonnay can retain elegance." Neal Martin (Vinous): "These wines are well worth seeking out." William Kelley (Wine Advocate): “These are honeyed, concentrated wines that are imbued with remarkable concentration and energy, and they develop beautifully in the cellar….One of the best producers in the Maconnais.”
As Gautier Roussille put it, 2023 was the rare vintage that delivers both quantity and quality. Despite a stormy summer, the grapes reached optimal maturity while maintaining an excellent level of acidity — a perfect equilibrium that makes for a wine with ripe fruit, minerals and structure at the same time. When we tasted it in March, it was already beautiful, with richness, length, and complexity. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $45 | |
 | Chateau Larrieu-Terrefort's 2019 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon… (+) Chateau Larrieu-Terrefort's 2019 Margaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, and offers a particularly refined take on the terroir. The class of the vintage is apparent, and the 2019’s elegant, perfectly structured tannins are exquisite in this wine. The nose is sophisticated and pretty with notes of sweet spice and oak; the mouth is fine and long with a delicate balance and very long finish. This will benefit from some time in the bottle, but we expect it to be exceptional in a few years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | One particular success in 2022 are the reds… (+) One particular success in 2022 are the reds of Roger Belland, whose cuvées are universally delicious, and always well priced. His Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2022 is a triumph – loads of dark cassis and violet fruit packed into a solid and inky core of fruit and minerals. And all wrapped up in a neat, classy, 13% alc. package.
Burghound loved this wine, awarding it both “Outstanding” and “Top Value” designations. He found “fine volume and richness,” with “an opulent mid-palate mouthfeel,” calling the finish “firm and serious.” It’s juicy modern red Burgundy, but with perfect ripeness and an old-school texture. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s
Gautheron's Montée de Tonnerre is a triumph in 2022. From Chablis's top premier cru vineyard, this is nearing Grand Cru levels for depth and intensity. Morris writes "There is a softer succulence, a ripe flesh on the palate, that is one typical facet of Montée de Tonnerre, then a long generous finish," 91-94. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for… (+) We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
“Pierres à Canards,” is a small plot of 70 year-old vines in a higher section, and in 2023 the wine was impressively generous in the nose and round in the mouth. It was vinified and raised in barrels for 12 months, followed by 6 months en cuve. There’s a lot going on in this glass: great purity of fruit mingled with a mineral line, and much length on the palate. It’s a bit drier than the Vieilles Vignes – more savory, more saline, more serious – but no less tasty. Like the Vieilles Vignes, it should have a long life and prove a versatile wine to pair with a wide range of dishes. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
Raised entirely in stainless steel, the Vaucoupin is particularly nice in 2023, offering a fine and delicate mouthfeel. The balance is particularly good, with freshness tied into a palate that nonetheless feels round and supple. In the nose, floral notes of acacia join the clean lemon fruit. Jasper Morris found “plenty of tension on the palate, discreet in the middle, a little richer at the finish. . . . Classy yet of medium body.” This is prototypical Chablis, and it wants for nothing. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently:… (+) As Master of Wine Jasper Morris wrote recently: “Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.” We thought it unlikely that Cyril would have followed his extraordinary 2022s with another vintage like it, but the 2023s are every bit as good, and in some cases even better.
The Chablis premier cru “Fourneaux” 2023 is from a right-bank vineyard with more clay in the soils. It is also raised entirely in stainless steel, but the additional clay makes the wine more easily accessible, with a palate of rounder mouthfeel before a mineral finish with refreshing salinity. Jasper Morris awarded four stars, calling it “understated yet fine.”
(-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | Morey’s white Burgundies are quietly extraordinary. They’re concentrated… (+) Morey’s white Burgundies are quietly extraordinary. They’re concentrated but perfectly channeled, long but refined – immaculate fruit and stones join the merest whisper of oak. Morey makes terrific wine at every level, but today we’re focused on his simplest: Bourgogne blanc.
This cuvée shows all of the meticulous concentration of all of Morey’s wines, but without the site-specific terroir shining through. It’s not about the chiseled stoniness of Puligny, or the shimmering golden energy of Chassagne; this is about winemaker style. And boy, what a style it is.
Morey’s Bourgogne blanc usually evaporates in Futures, but this year we’ve got a bit extra. Open last night alongside a roast chicken and fall weather, this was simply delicious. The nose shows lime zest and white flowers, the mouth shows yellow plum and earth. Burghound called this “lovely,” and we think you will too. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine… (+) Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.Fontaine-St-Martin is the domaine’s monopole in the Hautes-Côtes. Together with the Au Vallon parcel and the broader Hautes-Côtes blend, it represents the higher elevation vineyards above the famous slope of the Côte d’Or. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $48 | |
 | The soils of this region are the same… (+) The soils of this region are the same Kimmeridgian mixture as nearby Chablis — a blend of chalk, limestone, and clay, rather than the chalk-limestone of the rest of Champagne. The addition of clay gives the wines a broader mouthfeel than those from northern Champagne, and we found all four Robin wines delightfully rich on the palate.
Cuvée Topaze is blanc de blancs (100% chardonnay): refined, elegant, and subtle; the nose is fresh and clean with notes of lemon, chalk, and green apple. The mouth beautifully blends citrus and earth — it calls to mind a white Burgundy with bubbles. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Down the slope from the Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne… (+) Down the slope from the Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne the Ravauts produce an undervalued white Burgundy from the appellation Ladoix — we find that it more than holds its own alongside better known whites from Meursault, Puligny and Chassagne.
The Ladoix blanc 2019 is a relative bargain in this category, offering vanilla notes married with deep, ripe fruit in the nose — look for beeswax alongside lovely golden fruit. On the palate it is very round, but with good supporting acidity. There is a lot going on in the glass and a long, lingering finish. Writer Bill Nanson called the Ravauts’ Ladoix blanc a “baby Corton-Charlemagne,” and we can see why he did. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
| The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost… (+) The 2019 vintage produced wines that were almost universally successful. The tannins are compact and delicious, with an unusual succulence that makes them delightful even young. The fruits are both perfectly ripe and beautifully balanced, indicating a long life ahead.
Ravaut’s 2019 Côte de Nuits-Villages is among our most popular everyday red Burgundies. Today we’re suggesting its more sophisticated and classier cousin: the Ladoix 1er cru “Bois Roussot.” It’s bursting with strawberries and briary, woodsy berries in the nose; the mouth is smooth and fine-grained, with excellent density and a clean, modern finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | The Chastan family has been making wine in… (+) The Chastan family has been making wine in the same style for two generations. They were among the earliest in the region to farm organically (they were certified in 1980!), and their winemaking is simple and straightforward. Vinification for all the wines is cement vats, followed by an elevage in either vats or neutral oak foudres. The wines are neither fined nor filtered.
The Clos du Joncuas Gigondas 2020 is an easy, early-drinking vintage. It is silky smooth and rich, with dense, sweet fruit and notes of allspice. Though velvety, there is good underlying structure and a bit of earthiness in the finish. A dose of salinity balances the lush fruit, making this a delightful young wine we think will drink well for several years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
| Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.
Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Gravières” 2020 highlights the virtue of the best 2020s: though the vintage is a very ripe one, the dryness left enough acidity in the grapes to keep the wines fresh and vibrant. Thus the wines are well balanced and should age beautifully. Allen Meadows (“Burghound”) praised the Gravières 2020 for its “intense and elegant floral-suffused nose,” finding “black cherry liqueur, soft spice, and earth.” It’s 40% whole cluster fermentation this year, giving excellent definition to the lush fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in… (+) The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in 1550; for centuries, like many Burgundy domaines, they sold their entire production each year to the negociants of Beaune. Today it’s brothers Romauld and Romaric making the wines as the 15th generation of Boursots. Vinous’s Neal Martin describes Boursot’s wines as “superb,” “excellent,” “very fine,” and “worth seeking out.”
This lesser-known appellation just north of Beaune produces lovely red Burgundies with terrific freshness. In a world where an abundance of ripeness has hidden the clear, subtle earthiness of wine from many sites, Savigny remains a source for wines of tension, depth, and elegance. Old school red Burgundy from a terrific modern source. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie… (+) This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie Bohrmann, a domaine in Meursault whose wines we discovered in a Beaune restaurant. Her wines are quietly brilliant, many hailing from well-known vineyards in St-Aubin, Puligny and Meursault. Her 2022 white Burgundies are terrific – low in alcohol, full of ripe fruit and excellent freshness, with terrific concentration and appealing textures.
St-Romain sits about 400-500 feet higher in elevation than Borhmann’s hometown of Meursault, a real advantage in Burgundy’s new hot dry summer climate. Sofie acquired the Clos Sous le Chateau, a small monopole below the ruins, a decade ago, and it was a very smart choice. Her 2022 St-Romain is an exquisite combination of ripeness and zip – less creamy and soft than St-Aubin, but with Sofie’s signature golden polish. With just a splash of oak and a delicate bouquet of white flowers, acacia and almonds, this has to be among the best sub-$50 Burgundies around. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
| Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85%… (+) Ragot’s 2023 Clos Jus is terrific. It’s 85% raised in barrel (40% new) and the rest in amphora, with 25% whole cluster. This recipe makes for a serious red Burgundy, and the wine has the presence and texture of a village-level Gevrey-Chambertin. The nose is dark and sappy with impressively complex layers of spice, blackberry, cherry and stones. The mouth is rich and dense but with exceptional tension and freshness – it’s a dynamic wine in a way that much sub-$50 red Burgundy is not.
Neal Martin of Vinous gave it 91 points, finding a “bouquet of crushed strawberry, cranberry and lightly pressed flower.” In the mouth he noted “fine tannins, well balanced and refined,” concluding “this is another delicious Givry from Nicolas Ragot.”
(-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
| Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from… (+) Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.
Not long ago Sofie purchased the Clos Sous le Chateau, a small monopole in St. Romain, which is perched at the very top of the valley that runs west from Meursault. The 2023 vintage of this wine is excellent, with its elevation providing fine definition and energy. The nose has the precision of a Puligny, and in the mouth there is good concentration. Its persistence on the palate signals a wine that will mature gracefully. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre”… (+) Romain Collet’s 2023 Chablis 1er “Montée de Tonnerre” provides terrific value. It’s one of his most impressive cuvées – regal, refined, complex and vibrant. He’s got exceptional terroir, and he knows how to use it. There’s everything at once – richness, depth, stoniness, length, and polish.
Jasper Morris found that “white clay with plenty of stones lend it some Left Bank minerality, but the superb exposure of the hillside allows the Right Bank richness of fruit to dominate.” We think Collet’s 2023 Montée de Tonnerre shows the completeness for which the vineyard is famous. Serve this with a fine dish from the sea – lobster, scallops, branzino, dover sole, swordfish, etc. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $49 | |
 | Join us on Thursday nights for the return… (+) Join us on Thursday nights for the return of in-person tastings at the Depot this fall!
Thursday, September 14, 6:30pm: Chablis & the Maconnais
Explore white Burgundies from outside the Côte d'Or.
Gautheron Chablis 1er Montmains 2021
Collet Chablis 1er Vaillons 2021
Collet Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2021
Giroux Pouilly-Fuissé VV 2020
Maillet Pouilly-Fuissé 2020
Forces-Telluriques Viré-Clessé 2020
Any purchases of 3+ bottles will be credited back the $50 tasting fee. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $50 | |
 | Morey’s vines in this plot are over 40… (+) Morey’s vines in this plot are over 40 years old, and produce small, perfectly ripe berries year in and year out. This results in an intense, sappy wine with dark flavor, dark color, and a smooth, concentrated mouthfeel. We were amazed at how rich and masculine the flavor was, particularly so far from the soils of the Côte de Nuits.
The nose is dark and woodsy, showing intense black raspberry and licorice. The mouth is intense but smooth and long, with gingerbread, spice, and blackberry jam. Tasted blind we’d put this somewhere in southern Nuits-St-Georges or northern Gevrey Chambertin. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $52 |