Red Burgundy Verticals

Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.

Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.

So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.

 

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2019 was the fifth in a string of…
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2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.” The regular cuvée of Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” offers a beautiful nose of sweet fruit mixed with aromas of violets and smoke. It is just lovely in the mouth, with plenty of body. Raynolds called it “hefty and broad yet lively as well, finishing with well-judged tannins and strong, floral-driven persistence.”
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Neal Martin on Prunier's 2019s: “they might not…
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Neal Martin on Prunier's 2019s: “they might not oblige superlatives, yet they represent honest and true reflections of their terroirs…considering that these continue to be sold at very reasonable prices, they are certainly worth looking out for.” This exhibits Beaune’s classically middleweight expression of Pinot Noir. The nose is lovely and floral, with nice minerality and a bit of toast. Martin found “a concentrated bouquet with strong rose petal and violet,” and also noted the oak. We’d counsel hanging onto this for a few years so the oak can become a little better acquainted with the fruit, but with some patience this will be an excellent Beaune red.
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Jacqueline André's 2019 is a triumph. There are…
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Jacqueline André's 2019 is a triumph. There are delicious dark fruits of blackberry and cassis. The wine is dense and rich, with good structure and lots of intensity – “construit” (“built”) she called it. There is excellent complexity too — tiny notes of anise, lavender, thyme, raspberries and more. More than perhaps any other in our portfolio, this wine embodies the term “layers.” And as always, though it is rich, the wine has plenty of freshness. As with all her vintages, we anticipate much pleasure as we watch the 2019 evolve over what will certainly be a long and interesting life.  
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France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east…
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France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east of Burgundy, but in winemaking terms it’s a world away. The Jura is best known for its light reds and idiosyncratic whites. Our tiny producer here is the Domaine Hervé Ligier. Made from Savagnin allowed to oxidize in barrel for an astonishing six years, Vin Jaune is unlike any other wine in the world. Its closest tasting relative is probably a dry fino sherry. The nose is remarkable, with butter, apricot, coffee, almonds, walnuts and more. The mouth is dry and intense, with a pure, distilled flavor and a sleek texture. Pair it with Comté in fondue and it’s one of the iconic food-wine marriages in French culinary history.
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia…
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware.  You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir. The Santenay Grand Clos Roussot is a terrific, punchy Côte de Beaune red with unusual concentration and Morey’s signature polish. Look for dark blue fruits with earth and briary black raspberry. We think its a very good value and should drink well immediately.
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Stephane also produces an excellent cuvée from St-Joseph…
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Stephane also produces an excellent cuvée from St-Joseph, a large appellation that stretches from Cornas in the south to Côte Rôtie in the north. This enormous span covers a wide range of terroirs, and makes the character of St-Joseph hard to pin down. Tunnels vines are all in the south, and we think it’s best considered a JV version of his iconic Cornas. Drawn from 40+ year old vines and clocking in at a cool 13% alcohol, this is vibrant, intense, Syrah with Tunnel’s signature polish and class. There is a pleasant nose of dark fruit supported by exceedingly fine-grained tannins, and also excellent length. Vinous’s reviewer reported that “Vivid red and black cherry, violets and leafy subtleties rise up from the glass….polished and concentrated.”
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th…
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay – their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s 2019s are magnificent, as classy and supple as anything they’ve produced. The 2019 Pitois rouge shows dense supporting structure that needs some time for integration with the other elements: dark currant fruit, spice, earthy minerals, and a nicely balanced dose of oak. This is serious wine, more dry than juicy, and in a few years it should provide a wonderful accompaniment for all manner of roasts, steaks, and chops of beef, pork and veal. Jasper Morris found it “particularly intense” with “light cocoa powder on the red fruit.”
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Christophe’s Condrieu “Côte Chatillon” is rightly lauded, and…
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Christophe’s Condrieu “Côte Chatillon” is rightly lauded, and would sell out every year even if the only customers were the great restaurants of Lyon. With Condrieu, no patience is required: the wine is all about its beautiful aromas, which grace the wine from the time of bottling. The 2020 has a lovely nose, a clean mixture of flowers and fruit. There are hints of orange blossom, white peach, pear and honeysuckle, all complemented by just a touch of oak. This is the perfect wine for quaffing; pour it into your biggest balloon glass and let it slowly unfold over half an hour or so.
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous…
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better. Vinous 94. "Primary red and blue fruit, violet, allspice and olive on the highly fragrant nose, where a smoky mineral nuance adds vibrant lift. Appealingly sweet, energetic blueberry, cherry and exotic spice flavors spread out steadily on the palate, picking up hints of spiciness and licorice on the back half. Finishes long and lively, with sharp clarity and silky tannins that provide closing shape and grip."
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Roger Belland's delicious organic whites are outstanding in…
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Roger Belland's delicious organic whites are outstanding in 2022, delivering wines packed with fruit, energy, and depth. His white Santenay 1er cru also comes from the Beauregard vineyard.  It sports a very attractive price tag for a wine that is in many respects a junior version of the Clos Pitois blanc.  Dial back the intensity, depth, and persistence just a bit from the Clos Pitois, and you have the Beauregard premier cru blanc 2022. Particularly in 2022, we think most people tasting this blind would put it on the Chassagne side of the border – think opulent, golden richness.
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous…
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better. Bonnefond’s Condrieu is as good as they come, an opulent bouquet of white peach flowers, and on the palate rich, ripe fruit with an exotic touch: mango, apricot and pineapple.  Condrieu isn’t meant for laying down, which is a good thing because you will want to keep reaching for a bottle of this.
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Vin Jaune represents the highest level of oxidative…
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Vin Jaune represents the highest level of oxidative Savagnin from the Jura. The wine spends more than six years under the veil, over which time a third of the volume evaporates, and the wine transforms into something intense, rich, and complex. Look for a dizzying array of flavors and aromas — walnuts, hazelnuts, caramel, curry, coffee, toast, butter, cocoa, citrus zest, and more. The wine comes in traditional 620ml bottles called “clavelins,” which represents about what’s left after six years of aging 1 liter of wine. What do you do with this wine? Easy — serve it with real Comté, at least 24-36 months old, for one of the world’s iconic food-wine pairings.
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2019 was the fifth consecutive excellent vintage in…
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2019 was the fifth consecutive excellent vintage in the Northern Rhône. Like 2018, it was hot and dry, but unlike 2018, the grapes developed thick skins and less juice. This reduced yields but offered the promise of higher quality in 2019 if the fruit was handled right. Tunnel’s wines are pure, inky syrah — a blend of Northern spiciness (think Bonnefond’s Côte Rôties) and southern sun. Josh Raynolds of Vinous awarded 92-94 points, finding the 2019 Cornas “in a juicy, fruit-driven style, offering appealingly sweet cherry, blackberry and cassis flavors;” and its finish “very long and smooth, with just a hint of fine-grained tannins and persistent spiciness.”
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St. Estephe is at the northern end of…
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St. Estephe is at the northern end of the Haut Médoc, home to the likes of Chateau Cos d’Estournel and Chateau Montrose. The soils of St. Estephe have more clay than those of Pauillac to the immediate south, and this makes for big wines with a dark color and a long life. The 2019 Fleuron de Liot is intense and delicious, showing chocolate powder, black cherry, tobacco and faint herbs. There’s excellent density and perfectly coated tannins — we think this is a candidate to age nicely for 5-8 years.
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The Jura’s best known style of wine is…
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The Jura’s best known style of wine is its intentionally oxidized whites made from the Savagnin grape. Rather than topping up the barrels to prevent exposure to oxygen, Jura winemakers allow a “voile” (veil) of yeast to form on the wine’s surface. The wine rests in barrel under veil for years, over which time the volume decreases and the otherworldly flavors develop. The 2014 Vin Jaune is a treat. The texture is dry and waxy – think a fino sherry but with much fuller and richer mouthfeel. Pair with comté and fondue and it’s one of iconic food-wine marriages of France. But another traditional pairing is our favorite -- chicken thighs in a cream reduction. Throw in some morels, and you’re in for a real experience.
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Whatever the cause, we can confirm that nearly…
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Whatever the cause, we can confirm that nearly every 2020 white Burgundy we’ve tasted has been thrillingly good. And the 2020 white lineup from Domaine Ravaut is no exception. Ravaut’s style of low oak, fine minerality, and focused freshness now plays host to abundant ripeness, and the resulting wines are exciting and delightful. At the village level, Ravaut makes a Ladoix blanc from the Hautes-Mourottes vineyard, which borders the Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne at its northern end. We found this always tasty wine particularly good in 2020 – the nose shows tropical fruit with coconut and spice. There’s excellent intensity and a serious flavor profile, with low sucrocité, dry lemon fruit and plenty of freshness. This is concentrated and impressive.
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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers…
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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny house in Cramant in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. All of their wines come from grapes they grow themselves, and their vineyards are 100% Chardonnay from exclusively Grand Cru vineyards. Everything here is done by hand, from harvesting and riddling to disgorging, dosing and labeling. The base of this wine (around two thirds) is from the 2017 vintage, with the rest from barrels of reserved older wines. After four years on the lees this is rich and toasty, with a lovely nose of pear, apple and buttery croissants. The mouth is crisp and delicious with plenty of richness amid the energetic freshness. William Kelley awarded 90 points, finding “generous aromas…rich and fleshy, with an enveloping core of fruit.”
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Sofie Bohrmann has combined the skillful acquisition of…
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Sofie Bohrmann has combined the skillful acquisition of fine Côte d’Or terroir with a refined winemaking style, and her wines are more sought-after every year. The delicious 2020s are her best work yet. The 2020 St-Aubin 1er "Murgers" is a refined and elegant wine with particularly nice balance. It is round but subtly so, with a solid core and supporting acidity that creeps in gently and carries the wine into a strikingly long finish. Look for notes of golden apples, stones, and almonds.
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In his excellent “The New French Wine” published…
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In his excellent “The New French Wine” published last year, Jon Bonné writes, “Jacqueline André has quietly been upholding the extraordinary quality of her family’s domaine in a manner that legitimately earns the word “artisan.” The wine is surprisingly integrated at this early moment in its life — beautifully balanced with a silky mouthfeel and subtle aromatic complexity already. The 2020 red is not massive yet plenty rich and round. The beautiful Grenache fruit blends with darker tones and a fine mineral line to produce an extraordinary nose.
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Their 2015 Riserva is a real treat –…
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Their 2015 Riserva is a real treat – now eight years on from harvest the wine has begun to add tertiary aromas to its gorgeous bouquet of fruit and flowers. The nose is deep and earthy, with beautiful depth and a dark floral perfume of plum, espresso and licorice. The mouth is softened and beautiful but with excellent clarity and a subtle spine of tannin to keep all the elements in line. Given the density of the vintage this should age several more years with ease, but we think it’s perfectly delicious today. Serve from a decanter with a mushroom risotto.
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia…
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware.  You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir. It’s stonier and finer than the Santenay, combining the precision and lift of the terroir with a ripe-fruited vintage. We found it unusually floral this year, with notes of cassis, roses, and cherry blossom. This ages beautifully and given 3-5 years should be an exceptional, focused red Burgundy.
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In his excellent “The New French Wine” published…
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In his excellent “The New French Wine” published last year, Jon Bonné writes, “Jacqueline André has quietly been upholding the extraordinary quality of her family’s domaine in a manner that legitimately earns the word 'artisan.'” The 2021 vintage was anything but smooth across France, and the Rhône Valley was no exception. But truly great winemakers show their greatness mostly clearly in difficult vintages, and Jacqueline André’s 2021 results put her in that class. Her 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge is elegant and absolutely delicious wine. Grenache always dominates the fruit in her wine, but in 2021 the distinct aromas of dried rose petals join the usual sweet wild strawberries to produce a refined and elegant glass of wine that is strikingly good.
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Vinous’s Nicholas Greinacher puts it well:  “Seldom does…
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Vinous’s Nicholas Greinacher puts it well:  “Seldom does Syrah produce wines of such elegance and detail as it does in Côte-Rôtie, evoking characteristics often associated with Pinot Noir. Usually medium-bodied at most and often red-fruited and hauntingly floral, these wines can dazzle with refinement and finesse.” For more than 20 years we have watched winemaker Christophe Bonnefond's style evolve to emphasize more and more these special characteristics, and the term “dazzling” is often an apt description for his results. Bonnefond's regular cuvée Côte Rôtie Cuvée “Colline de Couzou” is particularly impressive for its balance.  There is plenty of freshness, but it supports beautifully ripe fruit with a fine mouthfeel with papery tannins and a silky finish.  A mineral line joins in, adding slightly earthy notes like black olives; and the nose adds spice, black pepper, and floral overtones of violets.
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Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc is simply delicious…
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Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc is simply delicious in 2023, with all the attributes that make Burgundy a mecca for the world’s white wine lovers. The nose offers ripe yellow fruit and wood in good proportion, along with a hint of freshness. The mouth confirms this, where very good volume joins with just the right amount of energy to provide lift and cut, adding mouth-watering freshness to the ripe fruit and the accompanying touch of vanilla. This wine will be an excellent candidate for pairing with food, and should drink well from the outset. An awfully good impression of Chassagne-Montrachet, at half the cost.
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Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du…
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Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du Tunnel “among the top producers of Cornas.” Star winemaker Stephane Robert farms an envious collection of old syrah vines around the tiny appellation, and his wines very much live up to the hype. Robert is humble and quiet in person, but his wines are bold, assertive, and utterly charming. Tunnel’s 2017 Cornas is a classic -- the warm year produced lots of ripeness, making it juicy and approachable today. But there’s plenty of Cornas’s traditional sturdy foundation. Vinous and Wine Advocate both awarded 92 points, finding it “loaded with blackberries, cassis and plums,” with “very good depth as well as energy” alongside “supple tannins.”
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th…
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual. Clos Pitois rouge 2020 is classic Côte de Beaune red Burgundy, dense and finely textured – pretty rather than bold. Burghound praised its nose as “fresh and bright,” with a “pretty essence of red and dark berries, pepper and earth,” all “trimmed in … menthol.” He thought it “firm enough to reward up to a decade of cellaring.”
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The 2022 vintage of her red Chateauneuf du…
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The 2022 vintage of her red Chateauneuf du Pape is the last that she saw all the way through to bottling, and no surprise, it is gorgeous. Like a few other great winemakers of her era, Jacqueline made a single cuvée of red wine, blending in all the wine from patches of terroir across the appellation. The 2022 is outstanding – as always, the nose is expressive, showing the wild strawberry fruit of the dominant Grenache, as well as floral notes of violet and maybe a touch of licorice. The weight is medium, with just enough structure and an exceptionally long finish that completes this strikingly elegant wine. André was a master of channeling rich southern grapes in wines of poise and class, and the 2022 is a remarkable achievement.
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BURGHOUND: 90 pts: There is a plethora of…
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BURGHOUND: 90 pts: There is a plethora of pepper, humus and underbrush elements present on the less elegant but equally complex aromas of both red and dark currant. The very rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess good power and ample punch, all wrapped in a youthfully austere and saline finish.
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Bardoux’s Rosé Champagne is two thirds Pinot Meunier…
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Bardoux’s Rosé Champagne is two thirds Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, and one third Chardonnay. The two dark grapes give gorgeous dry fruit (and color), and the Chardonnay adds freshness and length. This cuvée sits on the lees for three years before disgorgement; only 150 cases made each year. The nose is intense and fresh, with strawberries, crème brûlée, and apple pie. The mouth is crisp and dry but full of springy fruit; wild cherries and roses.
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Pommard is known for its intensity and bold…
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Pommard is known for its intensity and bold character, but Mégard’s has a lighter touch. Much of it comes from vines year the Volnay border, and the winemaking style is traditional. We’ve stocked the wine in the store for years and it’s become a crowd favorite at Depot tastings in Newton. The nose is expressive and high toned with pretty notes of dried flowers, raspberry and earth. The mouth is sturdy and ripe, but decidedly middle-weight with good freshness and excellent lift – look for notes of cassis, iron, and wild cherries. This is well-priced, delicious, and decidedly old school – even in recent hot vintages the wine retains its Burgundian elegance.
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Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among…
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Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among the brightest names in the humble town of Auxey-Duresses, and a favorite of Vinous writer Neal Martin. Martin characterizes them as an “old-school producer” with “premier crus worth hunting down, as they represent good value.” The Beaune 1er cru “Sizies” is delicious, showing Beaune’s classic stony character amid the inky fruit. The nose is intensely floral, with sweet red fruits and earth. The mouth is bold and very concentrated, but balanced expertly with a mineral line. Martin awarded 91-93 points, finding “pliant tannins…focused and taut,” concluding “this is very promising.”
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Christophe and his brother Patrick produce small batch…
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Christophe and his brother Patrick produce small batch wines of pure, concentrated syrah. Their domaine is a bit hard to find (we’ve found ourselves lost more than once on the way) but their wines are pure and fine; Robert Parker calls them “some of the finest in the appellation.”
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The Rochains 2017 is seriously impressive wine. The…
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The Rochains 2017 is seriously impressive wine. The tannins are particularly fine and silky — “enrobé,” as the French put it. And complexity abounds. The Syrah’s peppery notes mingle with a whole range of others: Raynolds of Vinous (93-95 points) praised the “exotically perfumed bouquet,” mentioning “potpourri, smoky minerals, . . . boysenberry, spicecake, and floral pastille.” These wines will have a long drinking window, probably at their very best between five and fifteen years after the harvest.
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From the upper part of the slope there…
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From the upper part of the slope there is Narvaux, normally a clean and precise wine that is always listed among Meursault’s best village-level vineyards. BURGHOUND – 89-91:  A very Meursault nose reflects notes of hazelnut, brown butter, ripe white orchard fruit and the hallmark acacia nuances. There is once again excellent volume and richness to the bigger but not finer medium-bodied flavors that possess focused power and evident minerality on the youthfully austere, serious and lingering finish.
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Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du…
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Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du Tunnel “among the top producers of Cornas.” Star winemaker Stephane Robert farms an envious collection of old syrah vines around the tiny appellation, and his wines live up to the hype. Robert is humble and quiet in person, but his wines are bold, assertive, and utterly charming. The Wine Advocate calls them “some of the most impressive, concentrated and unctuously textured Syrahs in the northern Rhône.” Tunnel's flagship Cornas, which is always terrific – Jeb Dunnuck awarded 94-96, calling it “beautiful, impeccably made Cornas.” Robert’s cuvées are never over-oaked, a tempting proposition given the depth and intensity of fruit.
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot…
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot has become the Domaine Amiot et Fils. Jean-Louis’s brother Didier has gone off on his own, and son Léon has joined Jean-Louis and Chantal in the business.  The 2020 vintage was the third year in a row of unusually hot weather, resulting in a harvest that began in August for the first time in Jean-Louis’s long career. The heat came with an extended dry spell, which contributed to concentration and low yields, but also balanced acidity. The village Gevrey seems to get better every year, and we found the 2020 particularly attractive, with a fine nose of dark fruit, plenty of depth and intensity, and silky-smooth tannins.  Look for violets, cassis, and a delicious briary finish – proof of just how good the winemaking is here these days.
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His Nuits-St-Georges cuvée comes from four plots near…
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His Nuits-St-Georges cuvée comes from four plots near the Vosne-Romanée border, and shows a beautiful mix of the two terroirs: the classic hearty character of Nuits, with a touch of Vosne’s finesse and spice. Gros’s 2020 Nuits-St-Georges has begun to drink beautifully. The wine shows gorgeous aromatics and a fleshy core, with excellent tension and a solid backbone typical of Nuits. Burghound found “chocolate, cassis and dark currant liqueur” notes, calling it “rich, ripe, palate coating and seductively textured” with “very good punch.”
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