Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | This is an unusually expressive grenache/syrah blend. The… (+) This is an unusually expressive grenache/syrah blend. The nose is dark and spiced, with notes of cassis and violets. The mouth is very rich and long, but balanced by a pleasant freshness and sturdy tannins — look for notes of lavender, cherry, black pepper, and raspberry jam. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | VINOUS 93-95 points
Bright violet. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of… (+) VINOUS 93-95 points
Bright violet. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of black raspberry, cherry pie and violet are complemented by a suave suggestion of exotic Asian spices. Sappy, pliant and alluringly sweet, offering palate-staining black and blue fruit and spicecake flavors and a subtle hint of mocha. Finishes sweet, focused and extremely long, displaying impressively delineated mineral and floral pastille notes and silky, harmonious tannins. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | Named for winemaker Philippe Chautard’s grandfather, the cuvée JB… (+) Named for winemaker Philippe Chautard’s grandfather, the cuvée JB Chautard is as close to Champagne as we’ve had outside the region. It’s an 80/20 blend of chardonnay and aligoté, fermented in barrels then left on the lees for a remarkable five years.
The Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert calls the 2013 JB Chautard cuvée “a persuasive case for taking [Crémant de Bourgogne] more seriously.” He awarded 90 points, finding “an elegantly fine mousse, good cut and texture and a sapid, complex finish.” The nose shows brioche, nuts, and buttered bread. The mouth is fine, delicate, and very long. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
| Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single… (+) Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single most impressive set of bottlings I have had here since I started annual visits in 2005.” The 2018 Rozier is very concentrated and intense, with sweetly lush dark fruit blended with a violet floral side, exotic spices and smoky minerality.
Josh Raynolds, 95 pts: “impressively concentrated but surprisingly energetic, courtesy of its spine of smoky minerality;” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
| 2019 was the fifth in a string of… (+) 2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.”
Côte Rozier is particularly complex – a mineral line mingles with the fruit – and super intense. Raynolds found it “chewy and subtly sweet, offering concentrated dark berry preserve, licorice pastille and spice cake flavors that show noteworthy energy and tension.” This wine shows a lighter touch than Colline de Couzou or Rochins, sporting elegance and poise on par with a Chambolle-Musigny. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | 2019 was the fifth in a string of… (+) 2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.”
“Les Rochins” is at the same level as Rozier (V 94-96), but in a different mode. The wine is very dense and chewy right now, promising a long life. Vinous praised its “powerful spice- and mineral- accented cherry and blackberry scents, along with suggestions of smoked meat, incense, licorice and exotic flowers.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration… (+) The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration nor the ripeness of the last three scorching years, but instead carry a daintiness and precision that some (including us) find a welcome relief.
The 2021 vintage, with its modest ripeness and concentration, has allowed Puligny’s true character to shine through once again, and Thomas’s Puligny 1er cru “La Garenne” is a lovely example. The nose is chalky and precise with delicate white flowers and lime zest. The mouth is terrific, an honest, graceful Puligny free to be itself. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | After three vintages characterized by extraordinary heat and… (+) After three vintages characterized by extraordinary heat and historically early harvests, 2021 is a return to typical in terms of weight, ripeness and richness. It is what the French like to call “classique” and its virtue is in approachability and elegance rather than boldness.
The Maison Lestimé Chassagne-Montrachet 2021 is from down in the village, at a much lower elevation than the Hautes Côtes, and the wine shows the difference: the fruit is darker, with the intensity of wild strawberries, and the texture more that of a typical Burgundy vintage before the hot years. It is really quite lovely, with good precision and enough material to support some evolution over the next five years or so. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | The regular Cornas is a blend from fifteen… (+) The regular Cornas is a blend from fifteen different parcels, and is raised for 14 months in four-year old barrels. Jeb Dunnuck awarded 92-94, finding “more ripeness and texture than just about every other Cornas out there.” He went on to find notes of “ripe blackberries, mulberries, spicy herbs and earth,” with “terrific mid-palate depth and ripe tannins.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | Sofie Bohrmann typically makes three St-Aubin premier cru… (+) Sofie Bohrmann typically makes three St-Aubin premier cru cuvées, but the dramatic loss (on average 85% down across her whole domaine) meant she only had enough for a single cuvée. The blend of three of St. Aubin’s best vineyards – Le Puits, En Remilly, and Murgers des Dents de Chien – is very impressive. We certainly wouldn’t wish it on her every year, but we applaud what she managed to turn in.
The 2021 St-Aubin 1er cru is sophisticated and gorgeous. It’s low on sucrocité, that sense of sweet young fruit often found in young white Burgundy – instead there’s a beautiful savoriness that mixes with dry lemon and pear notes. The signature 2021 freshness joins a smooth, waxy texture to create a wine of real elegance and precision. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the… (+) “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the 2022 red Burgundies; “very good wines and plenty of them.” William Kelley calls them “succulent, suave and charming”, “offering excellence in both colors and in a wide variety of styles.” Roger Belland's reds are entirely classic, with ripe modern fruit but traditional, low-alcohol textures.
The Chassagne 1er cru Clos Pitois is the family's monopole vineyard. The red delivers a dense, tightly packed structure and exceedingly fine grained, very ripe tannins. Its dark, beautifully ripe fruit unfolds slowly in the glass, hinting at fine things to come as the wine evolves. We expect this wine to age beautifully, hitting its stride in four or five years (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
| The Cornas 2022 is delicious -- a big wine… (+) The Cornas 2022 is delicious -- a big wine with an attractive mouthfeel. The dark fruit, mingling with cloves and spice, emerges slowly in the glass. We think this wine will drink well immediately, and be really turning heads in a few years. Vinous found it “polished and forward” and praised the “glossy red fruits paired with spicy undertones of black pepper and licorice.” Like the St. Joseph, this wine should offer years of drinking pleasure. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | In recent years the Northern Rhône valley has… (+) In recent years the Northern Rhône valley has become a source of unusual value. As prices in Burgundy have skyrocketed, and prices in Bordeaux have whipsawed back and forth, Côte Rôtie and Cornas have maintained a steady, modest rise. The wines have never been better, and suddenly they seem like bargains.
Rochins comes from 60+ year old vines in a parcel just next to the famous Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. The nose is dark and woodsy with an irresistible mixture of spices, wild cherries, smoke and violets. The mouth is velvety and beautiful, still with plenty of material but beginning to put on a smooth patina now six years after harvest. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
| Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from… (+) Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.
The side valley between Chassagne and Puligny holds the better-known town of St. Aubin, and the Domaine owns a parcel there in the celebrated premier cru “En Remilly.” The 2023 vintage is an elegant wine with excellent length. Sofie’s signature compact yellow fruit is here in spades, balanced expertly with the stoniness for which St-Aubin is known. This is classic dry St. Aubin, with floral notes in play alongside the concentrated ripe fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
 | Perched at the base of the hill of… (+) Perched at the base of the hill of Corton, the tiny town of Ladoix lies at the junction between the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. It’s here that the Ravaut family has made wine for generations, and today Vincent Ravaut and his sons are making wines that are truly exciting. They’re certified EU organic, have dialed back oak, have stopped filtering, and have abandoned pigeage to extract their reds.Ravaut’s Aloxe-Corton is magnificent this year. It’s more refined and tightly packed, with intensity that belies its old-vine source. The pure red fruits are stony and elegant, with a serious, sturdy core that’s impeccably balanced. This is a very serious wine, particularly for its price point, and should be given 3-5 years in the cellar. It will reward patience many times over, unmistakable proof that a $100 price tag is not a requirement for cellaring potential. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | |
| On complexity, layers, and depth, it easily competes… (+) On complexity, layers, and depth, it easily competes with a premier cru from the Côte de Nuits – the meaty character reminded us of an old-vine Nuits-St-Georges. Those mostly run $120-$150 these days; while not exactly a by-the-glass candidate, Bonnefond’s Rochins doesn’t even crack $80.
Rochins comes from 60+ year old vines in a parcel just next to the famous Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. The nose is dark and woodsy with an irresistible mixture of spices, wild cherries, smoke and violets. The mouth is velvety and beautiful, still with plenty of material but beginning to put on a smooth patina now five years after harvest. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $78 | |
 | The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in… (+) The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in 1550; for centuries, like many Burgundy domaines, they sold their entire production each year to the negociants of Beaune. Today it’s brothers Romauld and Romaric making the wines as the 15th generation of Boursots. Vinous’s Neal Martin describes Boursot’s wines as “superb,” “excellent,” “very fine,” and “worth seeking out.”
Chambolle-Musigny is one of Burgundy’s greatest terroirs, and it is here that the Boursots’ wines really shine. The village level Chambolle “Les Nazoires” 2020 offers pleasant freshness in a silky smooth package. Given the sheer amount of flavor packed into this village-level wine, it may take a few years until it fully hits its stride, but can be counted on to provide much pleasure over the next decade. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
 | Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers… (+) Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny house in Cramant in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. All of their wines come from grapes they grow themselves, and their vineyards are 100% Chardonnay from exclusively Grand Cru vineyards. Everything here is done by hand, from harvesting and riddling to disgorging, dosing and labeling.
This “Dualisme” is Extra Brut, and comes from 40 year old vines in the two famous towns of Chouilly and Avize. This cuvée is equal parts 2017 and 2015 base, with 15% coming from reserve barrels. With 5 years on the lees, this is prettier and more savory than the “Chevaliers” cuvée. There’s less dosage (4g instead of 9g) and the character is more serious. This wine shows spring flowers and lemon zest in the nose, with excellent tension and tons of length in the mouth. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
 | At the Domaine Michel Gros, 2020 brings another… (+) At the Domaine Michel Gros, 2020 brings another stellar lineup of beautiful red Burgundies, very much in the style of the superb 2019s. The 2020 growing season in the Côte de Nuits was much like 2019: hot, sunny, dry, and very early.
New to the lineup this year is the domaine’s new Gevrey-Chambertin cuvée, an addition that completes the list of famous Côte de Nuits towns in the family portfolio. The vines are all from “la Platière,” a village level plot east of the RN-74, and the wine combines Gevrey’s typical burly, masculine terroir with Michel’s signature polish. We found it unusually floral for a Gevrey, and Burghound agreed, finding it “relatively elegant” for the appellation, with a nicely persistent, balanced and complex finale. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
 | Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
 | Pascal’s newest cuvée, called “Reserve 2014,” is essentially… (+) Pascal’s newest cuvée, called “Reserve 2014,” is essentially the Brut Traditionnel cuvée, but left on the lees for an extra half-decade; the base cuvée comes from the 2014 vintage. Champagne, you’ll remember, undergoes two fermentations – a first in tanks (like any other wine), and then a second in bottle under bottlecap. After the second fermentation is complete, the winemaker may choose to disgorge (remove yeast and insert a cork) promptly, or hold for longer “on the lees.”
The extra time on the lees has transformed the wine into something extraordinary, far closer to his vintage champagne than the more humble Traditionnel. The wine shows an exquisite array of chalk, fruit, earth and toast. The mouth is subtle and long, with a delicious, vinous finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
 | Several readers are already hooked on our newest… (+) Several readers are already hooked on our newest Champagne producer, RH Coutier. Coutier has been a favorite of Vinous founder Antonio Galloni “for years;” he calls their wines “gorgeous… showing the natural richness of Ambonnay.” The Coutier style is open and accessible – the non-vintage “Traditionnel” is expressive, captivating wine at an exceptional price – today we’re introducing their finest cuvée.
We opened Coutier’s 2015 vintage champagne at a private tasting last week and it blew everyone (including the author of this post) away. It’s 75/25 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay, and has spent 96 months on the lees, gaining astounding complexity and depth. At 3g of dosage, this is dry, sophisticated and simply extraordinary. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
| Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting… (+) Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.
“Côte Rozier,” which borders La Landonne, adds a note of toasty oak to the mix. It is denser than Couzou, and a bit quieter aromatically for the moment. Its tannins are ripe and very fine-grained, and as its elements melt together over the coming few years it should be quite special. This is always the most refined of Bonnefond’s cuvées, and given a few years in the bottle approaches Burgundian levels of finesse. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
| Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting… (+) Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.
“Les Rochins” is a sibling of Rozier. The same elements are in play, but its fruit is a bit darker than Rozier’s (the vineyard has a more southern exposure) and its oak seems more in the background to the rich fruit. The wine is denser than Rozier, and its texture is particularly nice in 2022. Look for notes of leather, cocoa, coffee and cloves in the nose. The mouth carries a remarkable balance of intense concentration and vibrant lift – a bit like the character of Burgundy’s best red 2022s. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
 | Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic… (+) Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
The cuvée blended from four Nuits plots on the other side of town more resembles Vosne-Romanée, its neighbor to the north. Here the fruit includes more floral notes and a hint of Vosne spice. It may need a bit of time for the elements to integrate, but as always it will end up as a classic, elegant red Burgundy of much finesse. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $82 | |
 | Robin’s vintage cuvée is called Kimmerdigienne, a nod… (+) Robin’s vintage cuvée is called Kimmerdigienne, a nod to the famous limestone in the local soil. We bought their 2011 for three consecutive years, and it was a revelation to anyone who tried it. The 2012 has just arrived and is more than worthy successor, and from one of the top vintages in the last decade.
The nose is a stunner, with notes of almonds, apricots, praline, and chalk. The mouth is delicious and complex, with notes of seashell, lemon zest, kiwi, brioche and vanilla. The 2012 has 6g dosage (vs 8 with the 2011), and is richer and bolder than last year’s – the mouthfeel is concentrated and chewy, and we think will impress just about anyone. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
 | The 2021 red Burgundies sport neither the concentration… (+) The 2021 red Burgundies sport neither the concentration nor the ripeness of hot dry years like 2020 and 2022, but this means an opportunity for those without patience or a cellar. Now with a few years in the bottle, the vintage has begun to drink superbly.
An excellent example is Pierre Gros’s 2021 Nuit-St-Georges “Les Chaliots,” a single vineyard pinot noir from the heart of the Nuits appellation. Gros’s style is finessed and elegant, all destemmed and with a long relaxing elevage – and it beautifully matches the shape of this featherweight vintage. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
 | The 2022 red Burgundies are quickly becoming one… (+) The 2022 red Burgundies are quickly becoming one our favorite vintages. From the warmest, driest year in recent memory, winemakers managed to coax vibrant and beautifully balanced, sporting low alcohol and classic Burgundian finesse. Philippe Cheron is an excellent winemaker farming 10 hectares around the Côte de Nuits -- limited oak, whole clusters where needed, sleek, modern, terroir-transparent, muscled Burgundies.
The wine from the Clos du Couvent, the village-level Gevrey-Chambertin monopole from which the Domaine takes its name, is excellent in 2022. Jasper Morris MW found “clean raspberry-cherry fruit, medium bodied, rather stylish,” and Burghound praised its “pretty red and blue pinot fruit, soft spice, and prominent earth influence.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
 | Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
 | Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly… (+) Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy – he has no family connection to wine or the region, and has only been making wine for six years. His wife Laure is of a storied Burgundian family (Hudelot-Noëllat), but they have short winemaking experience and almost zero reviews. And since a hidden gem is the perpetual pursuit of all importers, we squeezed an appointment in late in the afternoon of our final tasting day this spring -- we're certainly glad we did.
Baillot’s 2022 Volnay is deep and floral with red fruits bursting from the glass alongside violets and cassis. It’s beautifully concentrated and perfectly defined, with a sleek, low-oak profile on the palate. Volnay is known for elegance, and this has it in spades, but there’s more concentration than we expected at the village level. This should age terrifically, but will be hard to keep your hands off in the coming year.
(-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
| Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic… (+) Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
“Chaliots” is classic Nuits St. Georges, with plenty of density. Its dark pinot fruit joins with beef-broth umami notes in a wine that is robust and earthy. “A lovely NSG, elegant without shortchanging you on fruit.” – 91-93, Neal Martin, Vinous (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
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| For years St-Aubin was a white Burgundy collector’s… (+) For years St-Aubin was a white Burgundy collector’s hidden gem. Today it’s no longer hidden – many writers put in on par with Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault – but it’s still a gem. For decades our source here has been the Domaine Gérard Thomas, a traditional, family run white Burgundy source with a small collection of excellent terroirs.
The Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru “La Garenne” is also especially attractive in this vintage. The balance is just right, with plenty of supporting material and excellent concentration, yet an attractive lift on the palate. A long, refined finish completes the picture. This wine is surprisingly open for a Puligny so close to its bottling (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
 | Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer… (+) Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick smile and friendly demeanor, he’s traveled the world gaining extensive viticultural experience, and has brought real energy and renewed focus to his family’s tiny 5-hectare gem of an estate in Morey-St-Denis. He’s officially organic as of this year, but has already started the process of biodynamic certification. He has abandoned herbicides, planted cover crops, and this year begins an agroforestry project in the name of vineyard biodiversity.
A blend of eight parcels across the town, this is truly an appellation-wide cuvée, showing the detail and elegance of classic Morey-St-Denis. The nose is very floral, with dried roses and violets; the mouth is clean and well built, with fine tannins all perfectly coated in attractive young fruit. Burghound was a fan as well, citing “various dark berries and earth” in the nose and “fine volume and richness along with an appealing sense of energy” in the mouth. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
 | A century ago Chassagne-Montrachet was best known for… (+) A century ago Chassagne-Montrachet was best known for its reds, and indeed the clay- and iron-rich soils are very well suited to Pinot Noir. Caroline Lestimé, winemaker at the Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, has made wine in Chassagne for 40 years, and is a master of its terroir. Her whites are extraordinary and legendary, but her reds are quietly brilliant as well. The Santenay 1er cru Tavannes is just over the Chassagne border, and produces dark, brooding, delicious reds that sport Caroline’s signature polish and class. Jasper Morris awarded 94 pts, finding “Lovely fresh purple, fine and classy ... good grip at the back, and fine length.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
| Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine… (+) Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.The Nuits-Saint-Georges cuvée comes from parcels on the northern side of the village adjoining Vosne-Romanée. Hints of the famous Vosne spice show up in the nose, and the impression is of elegance more than meatiness. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
| Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly… (+) Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy, a new arrival with little winemaking experience and no family history. He started just 10 years ago as a micro-negociant, purchasing grapes and making tiny batches from small plots. In the last decade he has acquired 10 hectares of vines around the Côte d’Or, farming organically and crafting beautiful, understated modern Burgundy. Vinous’s Neal Martin describes Baillot’s wines as “excellent,” “impressive,” and “lovely and energetic.”Baillot’s Volnay is made with 50% whole cluster fermentation, adding a beautiful textural backbone to the fruit. The nose is dark and spiced with gorgeous plum fruit. The mouth is extremely elegant and fine-grained, with great density and a finely channeled mineral finish – classic Volnay in fruit profile and texture. Neal Martin found “an attractive, finely delineated bouquet…quite floral,” and in the mouth “nicely structured and quite persistent.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
 | La Briccolina is the product of the Grasso… (+) La Briccolina is the product of the Grasso family who have grown grapes here for a century, but only recently started bottling their own wine. They produce a single cuvée, all from the Serralunga d’Alba terroir on the eastern side of the Barolo appellation. The soils are compact marls and sandstone with very high iron content, resulting in firm, mineral-driven wines of real character.
The 2020's nose is exquisite – cherries and spices explode from the glass with notes of licorice, plum, lavender, cedar and mocha. The mouth is refined and pretty rather than big and tannic – with just half an hour in carafe it opens beautifully into a middleweight, delightful wine with notes of black cherry, iron, saline and dried roses. Vinous's Antonio Galloni also loved the 2020, awarding 93 points and finding it “soft, fruity and charming, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next decade.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $85 | |
| Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic… (+) Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.
Gevrey-Chambertin “La Platiere” is the latest addition to the village-level lineup. It’s a small plot, about the size of the Morey St. Denis parcel, and shows the power and dark fruit typical of Gevrey. In the 2022 Burghound found a nose of “poached plum, wild currant and warm earth,” and praised its “fine volume” and its “rich, caressing and velvet-textured middleweight flavors.” This wine shows the richness and roundness typical of Gevrey. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $88 | |
 | Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from… (+) Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.
From the “big three” towns, both Bohrmann’s Meursault “Les Vireuils” and her Puligny-Montrachet “Les Grands Champs” are particularly delicious this year. Les Vireuils is all richness and roundness – classic Meursault mouthfeel – with a deft touch of oak and enough supporting acidity to carry the wine for a number of years. This is beautifully channeled Meursault – not as big and buttery as at some domaines, but with all the power wrapped in a sophisticated package.
(-) Free East Coast Shipping | $88 | |
| Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting… (+) Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.
Rochins is always the more serious of the two – Vinous’s reviewer writes “as dark as a moonless night” – and offers excellent aging potential. The nose is dark and floral with black cherry and cocoa; the mouth is long and very dense with perfect balance and beautifully coated tannins.
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| Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting… (+) Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.
Côte Rozier will also benefit from bottle aging, but was already soaring and magnificent from barrel this spring. The nose is beautiful, a blend of violets, olive, and raspberry; the mouth is seamless and long; the ¾ whole cluster fermentation gives the texture an exquisite clarity and definition. Vinous’s reviewer writes; “framed by bright acidity and delightful purity of fruit, the 2023 is shaping up to be a distinctively elegant Côte Rozier.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $88 | |
| Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine… (+) Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.
The Chaliots vineyard lies to the south of the town of Nuits-St-Georges. In 2023 it showed particularly well from barrel, with ripe dark fruit, good concentration and excellent balance. An umami note typical of Nuits-St-Georges appears alongside cinnamon, licorice and violets, with an elegant nose and beguiling texture. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $88 | |
| 2024 may have been a growing season to… (+) 2024 may have been a growing season to forget, the wines themselves were startlingly successful. They present a far lighter character than the powerful 2023s – fine tannin, delicate structures, silky textures and gorgeous, soaring aromatics. Léon judged the extraction expertly, and each cuvée was impeccably balanced. The Amiots told us they expect the wines to be approachable young, and indeed several wines from our tasting were difficult to spit out.
The village-level Morey-St-Denis is a blend of several plots at the village level. The nose shows bright fresh cherries, with hints of earth and stones. The mouth is silky and smooth, with middle length and a clean, lace-like finish. Burghound found it “round, supple and middle-weight” with “good energy.” We think this will drink well from its arrival, particularly with a carafe. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $88 | |
| WA 94-96
"When tasting the barrels likely to be… (+) WA 94-96
"When tasting the barrels likely to be part of the 2018 Cornas Vin Noir, it was immediately apparent that there's a step up in intensity, likely from the generally older vines that provide fruit for this cuvée. Violets and cassis in some instances, roasted meat and mocha in others, but always with great intensity. Full-bodied, velvety and plush, with long finishes, these components should yield an outstanding finished wine." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $92 | |
 | Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.
This shows Volnay’s signature silky tannins, and a long, lush finish. Belland fermented this wine with 100% whole cluster this year to provide definition to the concentrated fruit, and the wine is perfectly balanced. Burghound called it “rich, seductively textured and velvety.” We were struck by the complex aromas of dark fruit and spice, and as usual were impressed with its elegance. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $92 | |
| Belland’s Volnay 1er cru Santenots can be his most refined… (+) Belland’s Volnay 1er cru Santenots can be his most refined and elegant wine, and the 2023 shows all the hallmarks of its excellence. It mixes precision with a beautifully defined texture, and its fruit recalls dark cherries and plums with a floral note of violets. It shows excellent persistence on the palate, and should grow into something special with time in the cellar. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $92 | |
 | Bohrmann doesn’t sound very French, and it isn’t… (+) Bohrmann doesn’t sound very French, and it isn’t — Sofie Borhmann is Belgian, and splits her time between Belgium and Burgundy. We’re not sure where she’s been hiding, or why no other American importers have found her. But her wines simply blew us away.
The 2018 vintage shows beautifully dark ripe fruit. It is very Côte de Nuits, with deep earthy flavor and briary notes. There’s plenty of black currant fruit and the promise of interesting aromas to come as the wine takes on a few years of age. For wines of power and longevity, Gevrey is the big dog of the Côte d’Or. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | Grassl Model: Decanter
Recommended for: Aeration for Red/White
Details: Volume:… (+) Grassl Model: Decanter
Recommended for: Aeration for Red/White
Details: Volume: 1450ml, Height: 230mm, Diameter: 150mm
"The thing that impressed us most was also the hardest to pin down. Put simply, these glasses make you pause -- their featherweight delicacy compels attention. Not every wine requires such contemplation, but for those that do, a tool like this is indispensable."
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