Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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A century ago Chassagne-Montrachet was best known for… (+) A century ago Chassagne-Montrachet was best known for its reds, and indeed the clay- and iron-rich soils are very well suited to Pinot Noir. Caroline Lestimé, winemaker at the Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, has made wine in Chassagne for 40 years, and is a master of its terroir. Her whites are extraordinary and legendary, but her reds are quietly brilliant as well. The Santenay 1er cru Tavannes is just over the Chassagne border, and produces dark, brooding, delicious reds that sport Caroline’s signature polish and class. Jasper Morris awarded 94 pts, finding “Lovely fresh purple, fine and classy ... good grip at the back, and fine length.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $85.$62Current price is: $62. | ||
Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous… (+) Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better.
Bonnefond’s Condrieu is as good as they come, an opulent bouquet of white peach flowers, and on the palate rich, ripe fruit with an exotic touch: mango, apricot and pineapple. Condrieu isn’t meant for laying down, which is a good thing because you will want to keep reaching for a bottle of this. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $64 | ||
2019 was the fifth consecutive excellent vintage in… (+) 2019 was the fifth consecutive excellent vintage in the Northern Rhône. Like 2018, it was hot and dry, but unlike 2018, the grapes developed thick skins and less juice. This reduced yields but offered the promise of higher quality in 2019 if the fruit was handled right.
Tunnel’s wines are pure, inky syrah — a blend of Northern spiciness (think Bonnefond’s Côte Rôties) and southern sun. Josh Raynolds of Vinous awarded 92-94 points, finding the 2019 Cornas “in a juicy, fruit-driven style, offering appealingly sweet cherry, blackberry and cassis flavors;” and its finish “very long and smooth, with just a hint of fine-grained tannins and persistent spiciness.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
$65 | |||
St. Estephe is at the northern end of… (+) St. Estephe is at the northern end of the Haut Médoc, home to the likes of Chateau Cos d’Estournel and Chateau Montrose. The soils of St. Estephe have more clay than those of Pauillac to the immediate south, and this makes for big wines with a dark color and a long life.
The 2019 Fleuron de Liot is intense and delicious, showing chocolate powder, black cherry, tobacco and faint herbs. There’s excellent density and perfectly coated tannins — we think this is a candidate to age nicely for 5-8 years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
The 2019 vintage was warm and dry, and… (+) The 2019 vintage was warm and dry, and its wines are concentrated, muscly, ripe and very well balanced. Mégard's 2019 Pommard is dense and lovely. The nose is pretty and exotic, with soy sauce and spices alongside the classic raspberry fruit. The mouth shows dry blackberries, with a long mouthfeel mouthfeel that's elegant but sturdy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers… (+) Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny house in Cramant in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. All of their wines come from grapes they grow themselves, and their vineyards are 100% Chardonnay from exclusively Grand Cru vineyards. Everything here is done by hand, from harvesting and riddling to disgorging, dosing and labeling.
The base of this wine (around two thirds) is from the 2017 vintage, with the rest from barrels of reserved older wines. After four years on the lees this is rich and toasty, with a lovely nose of pear, apple and buttery croissants. The mouth is crisp and delicious with plenty of richness amid the energetic freshness. William Kelley awarded 90 points, finding “generous aromas…rich and fleshy, with an enveloping core of fruit.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Sofie Bohrmann has combined the skillful acquisition of… (+) Sofie Bohrmann has combined the skillful acquisition of fine Côte d’Or terroir with a refined winemaking style, and her wines are more sought-after every year. The delicious 2020s are her best work yet.
The 2020 St-Aubin 1er "Murgers" is a refined and elegant wine with particularly nice balance. It is round but subtly so, with a solid core and supporting acidity that creeps in gently and carries the wine into a strikingly long finish. Look for notes of golden apples, stones, and almonds. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
After three vintages characterized by extraordinary heat and… (+) After three vintages characterized by extraordinary heat and historically early harvests, 2021 is a return to typical in terms of weight, ripeness and richness. It is what the French like to call “classique” and its virtue is in approachability and elegance rather than boldness.
The Maison Lestimé Chassagne-Montrachet 2021 is from down in the village, at a much lower elevation than the Hautes Côtes, and the wine shows the difference: the fruit is darker, with the intensity of wild strawberries, and the texture more that of a typical Burgundy vintage before the hot years. It is really quite lovely, with good precision and enough material to support some evolution over the next five years or so. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $75.$65Current price is: $65. | ||
In his excellent “The New French Wine” published… (+) In his excellent “The New French Wine” published last year, Jon Bonné writes, “Jacqueline André has quietly been upholding the extraordinary quality of her family’s domaine in a manner that legitimately earns the word “artisan.”
The wine is surprisingly integrated at this early moment in its life — beautifully balanced with a silky mouthfeel and subtle aromatic complexity already. The 2020 red is not massive yet plenty rich and round. The beautiful Grenache fruit blends with darker tones and a fine mineral line to produce an extraordinary nose. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Their 2015 Riserva is a real treat –… (+) Their 2015 Riserva is a real treat – now eight years on from harvest the wine has begun to add tertiary aromas to its gorgeous bouquet of fruit and flowers. The nose is deep and earthy, with beautiful depth and a dark floral perfume of plum, espresso and licorice. The mouth is softened and beautiful but with excellent clarity and a subtle spine of tannin to keep all the elements in line. Given the density of the vintage this should age several more years with ease, but we think it’s perfectly delicious today. Serve from a decanter with a mushroom risotto.
(-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia… (+) Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware. You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir.
It’s stonier and finer than the Santenay, combining the precision and lift of the terroir with a ripe-fruited vintage. We found it unusually floral this year, with notes of cassis, roses, and cherry blossom. This ages beautifully and given 3-5 years should be an exceptional, focused red Burgundy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
In his excellent “The New French Wine” published… (+) In his excellent “The New French Wine” published last year, Jon Bonné writes, “Jacqueline André has quietly been upholding the extraordinary quality of her family’s domaine in a manner that legitimately earns the word 'artisan.'”
The 2021 vintage was anything but smooth across France, and the Rhône Valley was no exception. But truly great winemakers show their greatness mostly clearly in difficult vintages, and Jacqueline André’s 2021 results put her in that class. Her 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge is elegant and absolutely delicious wine. Grenache always dominates the fruit in her wine, but in 2021 the distinct aromas of dried rose petals join the usual sweet wild strawberries to produce a refined and elegant glass of wine that is strikingly good. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Vinous’s Nicholas Greinacher puts it well: “Seldom does… (+) Vinous’s Nicholas Greinacher puts it well: “Seldom does Syrah produce wines of such elegance and detail as it does in Côte-Rôtie, evoking characteristics often associated with Pinot Noir. Usually medium-bodied at most and often red-fruited and hauntingly floral, these wines can dazzle with refinement and finesse.” For more than 20 years we have watched winemaker Christophe Bonnefond's style evolve to emphasize more and more these special characteristics, and the term “dazzling” is often an apt description for his results.
Bonnefond's regular cuvée Côte Rôtie Cuvée “Colline de Couzou” is particularly impressive for its balance. There is plenty of freshness, but it supports beautifully ripe fruit with a fine mouthfeel with papery tannins and a silky finish. A mineral line joins in, adding slightly earthy notes like black olives; and the nose adds spice, black pepper, and floral overtones of violets. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc is simply delicious… (+) Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc is simply delicious in 2023, with all the attributes that make Burgundy a mecca for the world’s white wine lovers. The nose offers ripe yellow fruit and wood in good proportion, along with a hint of freshness. The mouth confirms this, where very good volume joins with just the right amount of energy to provide lift and cut, adding mouth-watering freshness to the ripe fruit and the accompanying touch of vanilla. This wine will be an excellent candidate for pairing with food, and should drink well from the outset. An awfully good impression of Chassagne-Montrachet, at half the cost. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $65 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $72.$65Current price is: $65. | ||
Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du… (+) Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du Tunnel “among the top producers of Cornas.” Star winemaker Stephane Robert farms an envious collection of old syrah vines around the tiny appellation, and his wines very much live up to the hype. Robert is humble and quiet in person, but his wines are bold, assertive, and utterly charming.
Tunnel’s 2017 Cornas is a classic -- the warm year produced lots of ripeness, making it juicy and approachable today. But there’s plenty of Cornas’s traditional sturdy foundation. Vinous and Wine Advocate both awarded 92 points, finding it “loaded with blackberries, cassis and plums,” with “very good depth as well as energy” alongside “supple tannins.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $68 | ||
Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th… (+) Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual.
Clos Pitois rouge 2020 is classic Côte de Beaune red Burgundy, dense and finely textured – pretty rather than bold. Burghound praised its nose as “fresh and bright,” with a “pretty essence of red and dark berries, pepper and earth,” all “trimmed in … menthol.” He thought it “firm enough to reward up to a decade of cellaring.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $68 | ||
BURGHOUND: 90 pts: There is a plethora of… (+) BURGHOUND: 90 pts: There is a plethora of pepper, humus and underbrush elements present on the less elegant but equally complex aromas of both red and dark currant. The very rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess good power and ample punch, all wrapped in a youthfully austere and saline finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $69 | ||
Bardoux’s Rosé Champagne is two thirds Pinot Meunier… (+) Bardoux’s Rosé Champagne is two thirds Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, and one third Chardonnay. The two dark grapes give gorgeous dry fruit (and color), and the Chardonnay adds freshness and length. This cuvée sits on the lees for three years before disgorgement; only 150 cases made each year.
The nose is intense and fresh, with strawberries, crème brûlée, and apple pie. The mouth is crisp and dry but full of springy fruit; wild cherries and roses. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $69 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $82.$69Current price is: $69. | ||
Christophe and his brother Patrick produce small batch… (+) Christophe and his brother Patrick produce small batch wines of pure, concentrated syrah. Their domaine is a bit hard to find (we’ve found ourselves lost more than once on the way) but their wines are pure and fine; Robert Parker calls them “some of the finest in the appellation.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $70 | ||
The Rochains 2017 is seriously impressive wine. The… (+) The Rochains 2017 is seriously impressive wine. The tannins are particularly fine and silky — “enrobé,” as the French put it. And complexity abounds. The Syrah’s peppery notes mingle with a whole range of others: Raynolds of Vinous (93-95 points) praised the “exotically perfumed bouquet,” mentioning “potpourri, smoky minerals, . . . boysenberry, spicecake, and floral pastille.” These wines will have a long drinking window, probably at their very best between five and fifteen years after the harvest. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $72 | ||
From the upper part of the slope there… (+) From the upper part of the slope there is Narvaux, normally a clean and precise wine that is always listed among Meursault’s best village-level vineyards.
BURGHOUND – 89-91: A very Meursault nose reflects notes of hazelnut, brown butter, ripe white orchard fruit and the hallmark acacia nuances. There is once again excellent volume and richness to the bigger but not finer medium-bodied flavors that possess focused power and evident minerality on the youthfully austere, serious and lingering finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $72 | ||
Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du… (+) Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du Tunnel “among the top producers of Cornas.” Star winemaker Stephane Robert farms an envious collection of old syrah vines around the tiny appellation, and his wines live up to the hype. Robert is humble and quiet in person, but his wines are bold, assertive, and utterly charming. The Wine Advocate calls them “some of the most impressive, concentrated and unctuously textured Syrahs in the northern Rhône.”
Tunnel's flagship Cornas, which is always terrific – Jeb Dunnuck awarded 94-96, calling it “beautiful, impeccably made Cornas.” Robert’s cuvées are never over-oaked, a tempting proposition given the depth and intensity of fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $72 | ||
With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot… (+) With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot has become the Domaine Amiot et Fils. Jean-Louis’s brother Didier has gone off on his own, and son Léon has joined Jean-Louis and Chantal in the business. The 2020 vintage was the third year in a row of unusually hot weather, resulting in a harvest that began in August for the first time in Jean-Louis’s long career. The heat came with an extended dry spell, which contributed to concentration and low yields, but also balanced acidity.
The village Gevrey seems to get better every year, and we found the 2020 particularly attractive, with a fine nose of dark fruit, plenty of depth and intensity, and silky-smooth tannins. Look for violets, cassis, and a delicious briary finish – proof of just how good the winemaking is here these days. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $72 | ||
His Nuits-St-Georges cuvée comes from four plots near… (+) His Nuits-St-Georges cuvée comes from four plots near the Vosne-Romanée border, and shows a beautiful mix of the two terroirs: the classic hearty character of Nuits, with a touch of Vosne’s finesse and spice.
Gros’s 2020 Nuits-St-Georges has begun to drink beautifully. The wine shows gorgeous aromatics and a fleshy core, with excellent tension and a solid backbone typical of Nuits. Burghound found “chocolate, cassis and dark currant liqueur” notes, calling it “rich, ripe, palate coating and seductively textured” with “very good punch.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $72 | ||
The trick in Nuits-St-Georges (particularly the middle sector)… (+) The trick in Nuits-St-Georges (particularly the middle sector) is to balance the readily available tannin with enough fruit and finesse. The naturally rugged structure of grapes from Nuits lends itself to rusticity if not well tamed. As you might expect from someone who recently celebrated his 40th vintage at the helm of his domaine, Michel has steered this cuvée beautifully, and hit the balance just right. Burghound found “good punch to the mouth coating flavors.”
The nose is deep and lovely, with plums, blackberries, toast and spice. The mouth is rich and concentrated, with deep color and even deeper flavor. It’s very 2020 in its blend of concentrated ripe fruit but excellent acidity. We expect it to age beautifully over the next 3-5 years, but as with most 2020s, it’s simply delicious today. Serve with a warm plate of steak frites. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $72 | ||
Across Burgundy the 2022 whites (and reds, for… (+) Across Burgundy the 2022 whites (and reds, for that matter) are friendly, lush, balanced, vibrant, and flat out delicious. Sofie’s style is pure and vibrant with limited oak (max 15%). Today we’re suggesting her St-Aubin 1er cru “En Remilly,” a masterpiece from the town’s finest vineyard.
The secret is out about St-Aubin, but it still offers terrific value relative to its fancy neighbors. The 2022 Bohrmann En Remilly tastes just like what you’d expect – expertly made wine from a top terroir in an outstanding vintage. It’s lively and generous at the same time: thick and full of a rippling intensity, combining perfectly ripe golden fruit with structure and minerality. Serve with a sole meunière. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $72 | ||
Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $85.$72Current price is: $72. | ||
This is an unusually expressive grenache/syrah blend. The… (+) This is an unusually expressive grenache/syrah blend. The nose is dark and spiced, with notes of cassis and violets. The mouth is very rich and long, but balanced by a pleasant freshness and sturdy tannins — look for notes of lavender, cherry, black pepper, and raspberry jam. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
The 2015 vintage deserves all the acclaim and… (+) The 2015 vintage deserves all the acclaim and press coverage it receives. But insiders (and in particular Burgundian winemakers) consider 2016 nearly as good, and in some instances, superior. We’ve been floored by the precision and polish of the 2016s, and the 2016 Ruchots is among our favorites in the vintage.
From an acre of vines, the Amiot family makes just 200 cases of this wine per year. Their vines, planted in the 1950s, produce concentrated, intense red Burgundy. Allen Meadows (Burghound) awarded the 2016 92 points, finding it “outstanding,” “exceptionally rich” and “seductively textured,” predicting “this should be approachable after only a few years of bottle age yet reward up a decade plus of cellaring.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
This wine is proof that ageworthy wine doesn’t… (+) This wine is proof that ageworthy wine doesn’t have to cost hundreds of dollars. Located about ten yards from the famous Grand Cru Clos de la Roche, Millandes is a premier cru that always punches above its weight, but that also needs a few years to reach its potential. Patience may be a virtue, but in this case someone else has done the work for you.
This lot of 2011 Millandes comes with impeccable provenance, having spent the last eight years resting peacefully in the cellar where it was bottled. Burghound awarded 90 points, finding it “delicious, balanced and solidly persistent,” and suggesting it would be perfectly mature beginning in 2019. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
VINOUS 93-95 points
Bright violet. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of… (+) VINOUS 93-95 points
Bright violet. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of black raspberry, cherry pie and violet are complemented by a suave suggestion of exotic Asian spices. Sappy, pliant and alluringly sweet, offering palate-staining black and blue fruit and spicecake flavors and a subtle hint of mocha. Finishes sweet, focused and extremely long, displaying impressively delineated mineral and floral pastille notes and silky, harmonious tannins. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
Named for winemaker Philippe Chautard’s grandfather, the cuvée JB… (+) Named for winemaker Philippe Chautard’s grandfather, the cuvée JB Chautard is as close to Champagne as we’ve had outside the region. It’s an 80/20 blend of chardonnay and aligoté, fermented in barrels then left on the lees for a remarkable five years.
The Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert calls the 2013 JB Chautard cuvée “a persuasive case for taking [Crémant de Bourgogne] more seriously.” He awarded 90 points, finding “an elegantly fine mousse, good cut and texture and a sapid, complex finish.” The nose shows brioche, nuts, and buttered bread. The mouth is fine, delicate, and very long. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single… (+) Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called Bonnefond's 2018s “the single most impressive set of bottlings I have had here since I started annual visits in 2005.” The 2018 Rozier is very concentrated and intense, with sweetly lush dark fruit blended with a violet floral side, exotic spices and smoky minerality.
Josh Raynolds, 95 pts: “impressively concentrated but surprisingly energetic, courtesy of its spine of smoky minerality;” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
Made from 100% pinot noir, the Cuvée Kimmeridgienne … (+) Made from 100% pinot noir, the Cuvée Kimmeridgienne spends 7+ years on the lees, and the payoff in depth and complexity is immediately evident. The nose on the 2011 is gorgeous and refined, showing notes of cream, brioche, creme brulee, coffee, and hazelnut; the mouth is dry and very long, with notes of candied fruit, chalk, and butter. Vintage grower champagne of this caliber can easily cost twice this or more (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
Christophe Mestre makes a single red Châteauneuf du… (+) Christophe Mestre makes a single red Châteauneuf du Pape each year, vinfiying the different grapes separately and carefully combining them to come up with each year’s vintage. We have been buying there for five years now, and have watched him consistently craft delicious wine from the varied elements each vintage offers. The 2018 rouge is about 40% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache, and 5% Cinsault, raised for a total of 18 months, half in cement vats and half in large foudres.
It is delicious. There is plum, licorice, and maybe a touch of chocolate in the nose. In the mouth, the wine is rich and round, with plenty of support and no feeling of heat. The finish is plenty long. Its peak drinking window will arrive in the fourth or fifth year after the vintage, but it will likely drink well for well more than a decade. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
2019 was the fifth in a string of… (+) 2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.”
Côte Rozier is particularly complex – a mineral line mingles with the fruit – and super intense. Raynolds found it “chewy and subtly sweet, offering concentrated dark berry preserve, licorice pastille and spice cake flavors that show noteworthy energy and tension.” This wine shows a lighter touch than Colline de Couzou or Rochins, sporting elegance and poise on par with a Chambolle-Musigny. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
2019 was the fifth in a string of… (+) 2019 was the fifth in a string of wonderful vintages in the Northern Rhône. As Vinous’s Josh Raynolds reported, “2019 was a hot and dry year, but the wines look extremely promising and show an uncanny blend of depth and vivacity.”
“Les Rochins” is at the same level as Rozier (V 94-96), but in a different mode. The wine is very dense and chewy right now, promising a long life. Vinous praised its “powerful spice- and mineral- accented cherry and blackberry scents, along with suggestions of smoked meat, incense, licorice and exotic flowers.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers… (+) Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny house in Cramant in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. All of their wines come from grapes they grow themselves, and their vineyards are 100% Chardonnay from exclusively Grand Cru vineyards. Everything here is done by hand, from harvesting and riddling to disgorging, dosing and labeling.
This “Dualisme” is Extra Brut, and comes from 40 year old vines in the two famous towns of Chouilly and Avize. This cuvée is equal parts 2017 and 2015 base, with 15% coming from reserve barrels. With 5 years on the lees, this is prettier and more savory than the “Chevaliers” cuvée. There’s less dosage (4g instead of 9g) and the character is more serious. This wine shows spring flowers and lemon zest in the nose, with excellent tension and tons of length in the mouth. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | Original price was: $82.$75Current price is: $75. | ||
The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration… (+) The Gerard Thomas 2021s show neither the concentration nor the ripeness of the last three scorching years, but instead carry a daintiness and precision that some (including us) find a welcome relief.
The 2021 vintage, with its modest ripeness and concentration, has allowed Puligny’s true character to shine through once again, and Thomas’s Puligny 1er cru “La Garenne” is a lovely example. The nose is chalky and precise with delicate white flowers and lime zest. The mouth is terrific, an honest, graceful Puligny free to be itself. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
The regular Cornas is a blend from fifteen… (+) The regular Cornas is a blend from fifteen different parcels, and is raised for 14 months in four-year old barrels. Jeb Dunnuck awarded 92-94, finding “more ripeness and texture than just about every other Cornas out there.” He went on to find notes of “ripe blackberries, mulberries, spicy herbs and earth,” with “terrific mid-palate depth and ripe tannins.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 | ||
Sofie Bohrmann typically makes three St-Aubin premier cru… (+) Sofie Bohrmann typically makes three St-Aubin premier cru cuvées, but the dramatic loss (on average 85% down across her whole domaine) meant she only had enough for a single cuvée. The blend of three of St. Aubin’s best vineyards – Le Puits, En Remilly, and Murgers des Dents de Chien – is very impressive. We certainly wouldn’t wish it on her every year, but we applaud what she managed to turn in.
The 2021 St-Aubin 1er cru is sophisticated and gorgeous. It’s low on sucrocité, that sense of sweet young fruit often found in young white Burgundy – instead there’s a beautiful savoriness that mixes with dry lemon and pear notes. The signature 2021 freshness joins a smooth, waxy texture to create a wine of real elegance and precision. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $75 |





































