Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in… (+) They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in 1550, and nearly five centuries later they’re still farming many of the same soils. The most recent generation has upgraded the facilities and the focus, and their wines have begun to gain substantial critical interest.
Martin calls the 2019 Chambolle Nazoires “generous and nicely defined, perhaps quite Vosne-like in style.” Writer Bill Nanson called it “elegant… delicious, complex, proper Chambolle.” A high toned silky precision wafts from the nose of this wine, with notes of red currants, roses, and stones. The mouth is concentrated and precise, with cinnamon, wild cherries, and cassis all channeled into a polished, regal form. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | Philippe Cheron is the winemaker at the newly… (+) Philippe Cheron is the winemaker at the newly created Domaine du Couvent. The new domaine combines the holdings of the shuttered Domaine des Varoilles and Cheron’s family vineyards, including several plots his grandfather planted in the 1930s. Burghound calls Couvent "a domaine to watch," and Martin writes "It is definitely a grower that I will keep an eye on." We agree, and we're thrilled to have them on board.
Couvent’s 2019 Chambolle Musigny “Les 40 Ouvrées” is blend of a dozen tiny plots from across the appellation. It’s open and accessible, showing deep strawberry fruit and the silky texture for which the town is known. Neal Martin of Vinous awarded 90-92 points, finding it “delicate but precise,” “smooth and succulent, very lush in style, but maintains good balance and freshness,” concluding “very sensual.” Jancis Robinson found it “luxurious” and “delicious.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | In Chambolle-Musigny, we chose Clos de l’Orme in… (+) In Chambolle-Musigny, we chose Clos de l’Orme in the 2020 vintage. It was vinified with 25% whole bunches, making a wine that is bigger than one often finds in Chambolle. Look for classic Chambolle silkiness, with a spiced nose and outstanding length. Jasper Morris found “deep dark fruit” with “blackberry and blueberry on the nose.” Vinous’s Neal Martin praised the same wine as “fleshy and very easy-drinking.” Martin concluded: “Fine cohesion with just the right amount of tension on the finish, this is a well-crafted Chambolle-Musigny that will be difficult to resist in its youth.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | For more than fifteen years we thought of… (+) For more than fifteen years we thought of Poggerino as our secret, but the word is definitely out now. Vinous’s Antonio Galloni considers their wines “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy."
The Chianti Classico “Riserva Bugialla” 2019 offers a different texture from the Classico. It is richer and more full-bodied than the Classico 2020, with dark red fruit and mouth-filling roundness. Galloni thought that “Black cherry, incense, leather and spice give this virile Riserva plenty of complexity.” He called it a “dark, powerful wine, . . . impressive, especially in terms of its depth and overall substance.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
| Vinous's Antonio Galloni writes: "Piero Lanza makes wines… (+) Vinous's Antonio Galloni writes: "Piero Lanza makes wines of notable character that capture all the finesse of Radda. I find a purity in these wines that is incredibly distinctive."
Piero Lanza's Chianti Classico “Riserva Bugialla” 2020 has even greater aging potential than the regular cuvée. Galloni called it a “potent, brooding wine” and gave “93+” points. He found that “macerated dark cherry, licorice, leather, tobacco and smoke all flesh out over time.” The wine spent nearly two months on the skins, followed by malolactic in cement and two years in large oak casks. Galloni thought that “this young, potent Riserva has a bright future.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the… (+) “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris of the 2022 red Burgundies; “very good wines and plenty of them.” William Kelley calls them “succulent, suave and charming”, “offering excellence in both colors and in a wide variety of styles.” Roger Belland's reds are entirely classic, with ripe modern fruit but traditional, low-alcohol textures.
Belland's Volnay is from Santenots, among the town's best premier crus. Burghound called it "lovely" and "outstanding" with an "agreeably fresh nose [that] reflects notes of kirsch, dark cherry, poached plum and violet," and a palate with "rich and seductively textured full-bodied flavors." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated… (+) Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His style is one of restraint and precision. We think of them as “minimalist” white wines — what’s not there (oak, butter, heaviness) is as important as what is there.
Morey’s 2023 village-level Chassagne-Montrachet is exquisite. It’s a blend from nine parcels across the appellation, including two declassified premier crus. The wine is subtle, elegant and extremely refined – not a hair out of place. Look for golden fruits and delicate citrus tension, ripe lemons with maybe a hint of orange. It pairs beautifully with subtle dishes like sole meuniere or butter-poached scallops. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
| The Volnay 1er cru “Santenots” 2021, vinified with 80%… (+) The Volnay 1er cru “Santenots” 2021, vinified with 80% whole clusters. Burghound commented: “The high percentage of whole clusters is evident as the nose is the most floral-inflected of all of these wines while offering pretty aromas of red and dark berries, exotic tea and a suggestion of sandalwood.” He was impressed with its “really lovely texture” and its “balanced and persistent finale.” Like Burghound, we expect this wine to develop beautifully in the coming years. Even at this early stage it offers an impressive ripe nose of dark fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first… (+) Gérard Thomas’s white Burgundies are always the first we offer of the vintage, and as usual it’s an excellent place to start. They’re decidedly old-school in texture, ranging from 11.5% to 12% in alcohol, and sporting a refined daintiness that’s impossible to resist. These wines will arrive as winter turns to spring, and we expect them to suit the warmer weather season perfectly.Thomas’s Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru La Garenne borders the St-Aubin 1er cru Murgers. The terroir shift is real, and this is classic Puligny. The nose is stony and precise with delicate white flowers and spice. The mouth is more refined and very long, with less flesh but more persistence and refinement. Powerful, smooth, deep yet so fresh, very good. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $95 | |
 | Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux… (+) Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux, comes from the area surrounding Reims. But Robin is in the increasingly popular Côte des Bar, a southern satellite subregion of Champagne about half way between Reims and Dijon.
The Secret de Sorbée is fermented partially in barrel and left on the lees for over two years. The resulting wine is toasty and fresh with lovely apple fruit and floral notes. The Guide Hachette awarded a star, and called it “at once round and tart,” with a “pleasant, intense fruit expression.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
 | Philippe Cheron and his son Paul farm a… (+) Philippe Cheron and his son Paul farm a portfolio of vineyards in Burgundy that would make even the most seasoned vigneron envious. Their Domaine du Couvent includes vines in every town from Nuits-St-Georges to Marsannay, including village, premier cru and grand cru plots. Their style is sleek and modern but with restrained oak, careful but firm extraction, and gorgeous density of fruit.
The 2020 “Meix des Ouches” is classic, bold, beautiful Gevrey-Chambertin. The nose is dark and rugged with stewed plums and hints of wood and leather. The mouth is dark and fresh, with excellent length for a village level wine, and real subtlety for a Gevrey. Look for cassis and dried violet petals, with just a hint of leaves. Jasper Morris awarded 90-92, calling it “a very stylish Gevrey-Chambertin.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
 | "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines… (+) "Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s
One of the seven Grand Crus of Chablis, Preuses is known for its intense floral and mineral character. Gautheron's is deep and brilliant, with Grand Cru richness cut by classical Chablisien stones. Morris found it, "spicy behind and now with some much richer fruit, certainly fresh apricots, and a start of peaches. Very juicy and delicious." (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
 | Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia… (+) Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware. You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir.
The vines in Chassagne 1er cru Embrazées are 63 years old, planted by Thomas’s grandfather in a field that had been abandoned after phylloxera. The 2022 is a stunner – long and lithe with deep fruit channeled beautifully into a concentrated core that ripples with energy and intensity. Morey’s usual restraint is in effect, and the wine is rich without an ounce of heaviness. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
| From their historic domaine in the center of… (+) From their historic domaine in the center of Chambolle-Musigny, the Boursot brothers continue to produce delicious red Burgundies full of character and richness. As they hone their cellar techniques the wines have gained precision and finesse, but they retain the rugged, charming spirit that first brought us to this domaine. Romaric told us their 2022 growing season was just about perfect, with the wines exhibiting classical charm of old-school Burgundy but the intense concentration of modern sunny vintages.
Their Chambolle village is a blend of three plots, and a combination of silky, lacey detail from the terroir and a deep intensity from the vintage. The nose is dark and brooding with notes of blackberry and fig; the mouth is intense and well structured with silky tannins surrounding a sleek, chiseled core. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar, and given the intensity we wouldn’t be surprised to see it go a decade with ease. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
| A collaboration with Théo Dancer, winemaker at Domaine… (+) A collaboration with Théo Dancer, winemaker at Domaine Vincent Dancer in Chassagne-Montrachet. Dancer has reached near cult status in Chassagne, and many consider him one of the best white Burgundy domaines operating anywhere. In addition to taking over the family estate, Theo has embarked on a new project in the Maconnais called Roc Breïa. It's a 10 hectare property in the Maconnais that Dancer began farming in 2021. The Pinot Noir vines are 35+ years old, and the Chardonnay averages over 60.
The 2022 Roc Breïa Blanc is floral and beautiful, with a sunny Maconnais complexion cut by fresh lemon zest and chalk. William Kelley writes the wine “bursts with aromas of pear, white flowers, bread dough and hazelnuts,” followed by a “fleshy palate with a satiny attack…and a saline finish.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
 | Roc Breïa is a 10 hectare property in… (+) Roc Breïa is a 10 hectare property in the Maconnais that winemaker Theo Dancer (of Domaine Vincent Dancer) began farming in 2021. The Pinot Noir vines are 35+ years old, and the Chardonnay averages over 60. The 2022 Roc Breïa Rouge is deep and charming, almost gamay-like in color, with a beautiful intensity that’s not the least bit harsh. William Kelley found it “deep and muscular” with “plumy fruit and sweet spices” and “sweet, powdery tannins.” It’s perfectly balanced – Pinot Noir in pure, unadulterated form.
This wine is a chance to taste a superstar young winemaker’s work early on in a groundbreaking new project. Dancer is among the most exciting young winemakers working today, and in only the second vintage of this project he’s off to a terrific start. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
| Boursot’s hometown Chambolle-Musigny cuvées are truly delicious this… (+) Boursot’s hometown Chambolle-Musigny cuvées are truly delicious this year. The 2021 Chambolle village saw 25% new oak, and the rest in old barrels and amphora – a combination designed to bring out fruit and keep the wine fresh. This formula has worked beautifully, as the oak is nearly undetectable and the mouth is smooth and gourmand. Given the concentration and pH levels the 2021s should age with ease, but it's already hard to put down. Look for cassis, violet, and Chambolle’s signature silky mineral texture.
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 | Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from… (+) Sofie Bohrmann is a first generation winemaker from Belgium – hardly a recipe for success in the insular world of Burgundian vignerons where most inherit vines, and people even from the Maconnais (an hour south) are considered out of towners. And yet she’s cracked into the elite world of Côte d’Or winemaking. She’s a real winemaking talent, of course, but we’re betting her charming smile and disarmingly friendly demeanor go a long way. Her style is clear and juicy – the wines are packed with flavor, limited oak, and flat-out delicious textures.
Most Burgundy aficionados consider Puligny the pinnacle of white Burgundy – a perfect blend of fruit and stone and wood. Sofie’s “Les Grands Champs” is unmistakable Puligny, and is certainly her most elegant wine. Like all good Puligny, will take a bit of time to integrate fully; but the 2023 is likely to be precocious for the appellation. Look for white flowers, lime zest, and stones on a very long, classy finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
 | Vincent and Sylvie Boyer are brother and sister… (+) Vincent and Sylvie Boyer are brother and sister winemakers with a mouthwatering collection of vines in and around Meursault and Puligny. One of our favorites of their many gems is a small plot just in back of their domaine called “Ormeau.” It was Vincent and Sylvie’s great grandmother Lucie who planted the vines here in 1924, and for over a century they’ve produced rich, gorgeous Meursault from their clay-rich soils.
This is prototypical, sophisticated Meursault. The nose shows white peaches and citrus, with pear and a faint note of hazelnut. The mouth shows mouthfilling concentration and superb energy across a long, lingering finish. As always with the Boyers the balance is impeccable – Burghound cites “underlying tension” and “a subtle bead of minerality” with a “clean and nicely dry finale,” concluding “delicious.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
 | Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine… (+) Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.The Gevrey-Chambertin “La Platière” tends toward elegance rather than power, but still shows Gevrey’s unmistakable burliness. In 2023 it offers good freshness with fine tannins and a deep, sappy palate, with toasty oak playing against fruit and earthy elements. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
 | Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine… (+) Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.The Morey-St-Denis comes from a plot on the upper part of the slope in the vineyard called “En la Rue de Vergy,” named for the path to an ancient abbey just over the ridge of the Côte. Often the first village wine to hit its stride, the 2023 is elegant and fine in the mouth. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
 | Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit… (+) Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of the international wine press. He’s an insiders’ producer with a mouthwatering collection of terroirs; together with his sister Sylvie who handles much of the viticulture, they continue to turn out magnificent expressions of their unparalleled terroir. Boyer’s 2023s are simply delicious – juicy and fleshy and approachable, but with excellent tension and low alcohol.Narvaux is considered among the best sites in the town, in some years at near premier cru level. Boyer’s Narvaux does not disappoint – it’s impossibly fine, with a deep floral nose and gorgeous, almost Puligny-like minerality. There’s plenty of Meursault richness of course, but all finely channeled into a sophisticated white flower package. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $99 | |
 | Poggerino’s finest wine is their Chianti Classico Riserva… (+) Poggerino’s finest wine is their Chianti Classico Riserva called “Bugialla.” Like Poggerino’s other wines, this is pure, unblended Sangiovese. But the Riserva comes from their oldest vines -- nearly 45 years old now -- and is raised carefully in oak before bottling. Poggerino holds it a full year in the bottle before releasing it to the public.
JANCIS ROBINSON: Lustrous ruby. Quite sweetly perfumed nose with plenty of depth. Juicy, crunchy red fruit on the palate, followed by firm, chewy tannins on the finish. Closes up a little but this wine shows true craftsmanship in a very difficult vintage. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
 | A few years ago Clive Coates MW named… (+) A few years ago Clive Coates MW named the Domaine Michel Gros in the top 17 domaines in all of Burgundy — a list that included Romanée-Conti, Leroy, and Comtes Lafon — highlighting the “nobility and elegance” of his wines.
Just outside the town’s most famous vineyard “Le Musigny,” Michel Gros cultivates a small collection of village-level vines. From this plot and three other smaller parcels, Gros crafts what may be the silkiest wine in his lineup: the village-level Chambolle-Musigny. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
 | They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in… (+) They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in 1550, and nearly five centuries later they’re still farming many of the same soils. The most recent generation has upgraded the facilities and the focus, and their wines have begun to gain substantial critical interest.
The 2019 “Chatelots” has a pleasant dark fruit nose with a nice dollop of toast. It represents a step up in intensity from the village, with lots of body and structure. Though clearly young, this wine is very Chambolle — silky and floral. Neal Martin awarded 90-92 points, and called it “all nicely defined and quite glossy,” predicting it would “drink nicely over 12 – 15 years. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
 | The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since… (+) The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going.
Their 2022 Chambolle-Musigny is very Chambolle, with a pretty rather than powerful profile, and just the right touch of oak in the nose. The mid-palate has lovely ripe cherry fruit and fine-grained tannins. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
 | Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting… (+) Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.
In recent years Christophe’s daughter Lea has become his partner in winemaking. She has crafted her own cuvée, “Dans les Vignes de Mon Père” (In My Father’s Vines), of grapes selected from Rochins and Rozier, and made with whole clusters. The wine has garnered much critical acclaim (Vinous’s Josh Raynolds awarded it 97 points!). It’s a bigger wine than either Rochins or Rozier, more extracted and dense, and will require even more patience before showing its best. But all of the elements are there, and maybe a few more: some clove and spice mixed in with the fruit, smoke, and minerals; and the wine has great length.
(-) Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
 | Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the… (+) Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the winemakers at this gem of an estate in Meursault. They farm a mouthwatering collection of vines in and around Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, including all three famous Meursault premier crus. They farm organically, and use a long elevage in barrels then concrete eggs to give their wines a regal depth and complexity. These are some of our favorite white Burgundies from anywhere.
Reuchaux is a small village plot right near the town of Puligny which offers excellent value for its class, and is unusually good this year. The nose is stony and austere, with dried flowers, apple, lemon, and stones. The mouth is laser-focused and extremely elegant, with finely channeled sucrocité balanced on a chiseled stony core. “A lovely Puligny villages,” writes Burghound. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
| Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
| Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated… (+) Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His style is one of restraint and precision. We think of them as “minimalist” white wines — what’s not there (oak, butter, heaviness) is as important as what is there.
Thomas’s grandfather planted the oldest of the vines in the family parcel in Embrazées during the 1960s, reclaiming a vineyard that had lain fallow since the phylloxera epidemic in the late nineteenth century. As usual, the 2023 offers a fine balance between ripe fruit and freshness. It’s polished and serious with exquisite balance and a long, lithe finish. From Morris: “Mid lemon yellow, just over 13% naturally. An easy yellow fruit, not soft but happily sunny. Good tension once again. Crisp behind, before the weight of fruit returns, the orchard has been picked at a healthy and benign moment.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
 | Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated… (+) Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His style is one of restraint and precision. We think of them as “minimalist” white wines — what’s not there (oak, butter, heaviness) is as important as what is there.
Morgeot is a premier cru sector near the southern end of Chassagne-Montrachet. The wine from Morgeot is always bigger and rounder than Embrazées, so it’s a good one to consider if your taste falls to that side of the spectrum. Of course this is Thomas Morey, so the wine is worlds away from heavy or buttery. From Morris: “Vibrant lemon and lime. Beautifully scented. White fruit behind, floral, with a fine intensity. Thomas Morey elegance and precision on top of the natural weight of Morgeot, indeed class of upper Morgeot.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
| Philippe Cheron’s Domaine du Couvent is the successor… (+) Philippe Cheron’s Domaine du Couvent is the successor to the Domaine des Varoilles, though Cheron’s family has long held a minority interest in all the Varoilles parcels and he knows them well. Philippe brings a gifted winemaking technique developed through decades of experience, and has added superb family parcels to the Domaine’s range.Chambolle-Musigny Quarante Ouvrées is an assemblage of small plots from around the appellation. Lifted cherry and strawberry notes, with a little spicy white pepper, with energy and a long finish. This has the classic silky texture that could only be from Chambolle. We expect it to drink well from the time it arrives, and to stay at a high level for five years or more. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $108 | |
 | The 2018 growing season was hotter and drier… (+) The 2018 growing season was hotter and drier than anything in recent memory, and making wine under the scorching provencal sun was even toastier than usual. But Gigondas has some advantages amid ever warming seasons: it’s on the slope of a hill with excellent drainage, and the tall mountains (Dentelles de Montmirail) behind it foster continuous airflow. Harvest is often a week or two later than Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Goubert has just released the 2018 Gigondas “Florence,” after its two year elevage before bottling. It’s rich and bold and smooth, offering easy enjoyment and a perfect match for wintery weather. Jeb Dunnuck awarded 92-94 points, calling it “beautiful” and finding “focused texture.. and a great finish.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $115 | |
 | Free East Coast Shipping | $115 | |
 | Free East Coast Shipping | $115 | |
 | Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021… (+) Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021 vintage is a marker of unusual talent. His unmarked cuverie is hidden down a back street in Nuits-St-Georges, and Cheron himself is quiet and pensive. But his wines more than speak for themselves.
From a vineyard near the border with Vosne-Romanée. It was vinified from 100% whole bunches, which gave it a terrific intensity and depth. The nose is inky and dark with cassis and violets, the mouth long and sleek. Morris gave 92-95 points, finding “a gorgeous, airy, floral note to the bouquet, and the little dryness at the back which will soon disappear into the sweet cherry fruit.” The vines were planted in the mid nineteen-forties, and the special intensity and length of wine from truly old vines shows through. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $115 | |
 | The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since… (+) The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going.
The Morey St. Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes” is well-named. It is usually the first of the three to drink well, and that is likely to be the case with this vintage. Already aromatically expressive, it garnered praise from Allen Meadows (Burghound) for its “layered mix of red and dark pinot fruit, anise and soft floral wisps” as well as its “delicious, rich and quite suave medium-bodied flavors.” This ages beautifully, but it’s hard to keep your hands off it young. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $115 | |
| The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since… (+) The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going.
The Morey St. Denis 1er cru “Les Millandes” is a bigger wine, with more structure and the need for a little more time to integrate its elements. There’s a bit more oak (30% new barrels vs. 20% in Charmes) and a similar increase in whole clusters. As Burghound put it, “The sleek, delicious, and tension-filled larger-bodied and tautly muscular flavors display the hallmark power of a classic Millandes.” This is very refined, and very Morey-St-Denis. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $115 | |
| Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer… (+) Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick smile and friendly demeanor, he’s traveled the world gaining extensive viticultural experience, and has brought real energy and renewed focus to his family’s tiny 5-hectare gem of an estate in Morey-St-Denis. He’s officially organic as of this year, but has already started the process of biodynamic certification. He has abandoned herbicides, planted cover crops, and this year begins an agroforestry project in the name of vineyard biodiversity.
This is the northernmost vineyard in Morey-St-Denis, and sits on the border with Charmes-Chambertin, a Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru. The charming silky quality for which “Charmes” is known is there in spades, with elegant notes of earth, cassis, and smoke. The classic, chiseled character of Morey-St-Denis is below the surface here too, and the combination is enticing. Burghound found it “succulent, round and seductively textured,” with a “velvety mid-palate. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $115 | |
 | Chambolle-Musigny is known for its elegance and silky… (+) Chambolle-Musigny is known for its elegance and silky texture, and indeed the Cherons’ cuvées here show exquisite polish. But they trend more towards deepness and intensity, making them terrific candidates for aging. Today’s wine is from the outstanding 2019 vintage, now six years on from harvest. Chambolle is usually delicious right from the barrel, but it’s only with a few years’ age that the town’s magic really shines through.
Couvent’s Chambolle-Musigny “Clos de l’Orme” is from a village plot bordering the strip of premier crus, a vineyard rich in minerals with excellent drainage. Cheron bottles the rest of his village Chambolle plots together, but holds this one out for its refined intensity. Jasper Morris found it “attractive, balanced and long,” and Neal Martin writes of its "succulent black cherry and blueberry fruit, smooth and harmonious.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $115 | |
| Just north of the famous Grand Cru vineyard… (+) Just north of the famous Grand Cru vineyard Clos Vougeot a narrow valley channels groundwater into a bubbling spring at the base of the slope. This boiling meadow, or champ bouillant in French, gave Chambolle its name. The Boursots have been making wine there for the past 475 years.Boursot’s 2023 Chambolle Musigny came in at 13.1% and saw 25% new oak. It is a bigger wine than usual for village Chambolle, with a lot of density on the palate and enough structure to age well. There is an expressive nose of ripe fruit with floral notes alongside. We’d suggest perhaps a year in the cellar followed by many years of sampling as it evolves. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $115 | |
| Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit… (+) Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of the international wine press. He’s an insiders’ producer with a mouthwatering collection of terroirs; together with his sister Sylvie who handles much of the viticulture, they continue to turn out magnificent expressions of their unparalleled terroir. Boyer’s 2023s are simply delicious – juicy and fleshy and approachable, but with excellent tension and low alcohol.In Puligny, Vincent and Sylvie farm a small village level plot just north of town in Reuchaux. It’s a tricky plot in an unusual spot, but the wine it produces is exceptional. The 2023 is the best we can remember. The nose is exquisite, a mixture of stones, pear, flowers and flax. The mouth is classic Puligny – chiseled and fine – but with unusually attractive weight this year. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $115 |