Red Burgundy Verticals

Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.

Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.

So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.

 

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Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated…
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Thomas Morey makes the most precise, elegant, understated white Burgundies in our cellar. His style is one of restraint and precision. We think of them as “minimalist” white wines — what’s not there (oak, butter, heaviness) is as important as what is there.  Morey’s 2023 village-level Chassagne-Montrachet is exquisite. It’s a blend from nine parcels across the appellation, including two declassified premier crus. The wine is subtle, elegant and extremely refined – not a hair out of place. Look for golden fruits and delicate citrus tension, ripe lemons with maybe a hint of orange. It pairs beautifully with subtle dishes like sole meuniere or butter-poached scallops. 
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Nobody will ever call 2017 a “great vintage”…
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Nobody will ever call 2017 a “great vintage” in Burgundy – it has neither the structure nor the concentration for longterm cellaring. But as anyone who has had one recently will tell you, on finesse, drinkability and sheer pleasure, the vintage is off the charts. They’ve been delightful since they arrived, and the few that are about as pleasant as Burgundy gets. The 2017 Bressandes is a silky wine, almost sweet in its intensity.  Writing for Jancis Robinson, Master of Wine Richard Hemming found it “fleshy, ripe, sweetly spiced and wonderfully fruit-forward too. Expressive violet aromas on the nose with crunchy acid and a succulent, silky tannic texture.” In short, every inch a Grand Cru.
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Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux…
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Most Champagne, including our primary source Pascal Bardoux, comes from the area surrounding Reims. But Robin is in the increasingly popular Côte des Bar, a southern satellite subregion of Champagne about half way between Reims and Dijon. The Secret de Sorbée is fermented partially in barrel and left on the lees for over two years. The resulting wine is toasty and fresh with lovely apple fruit and floral notes. The Guide Hachette awarded a star, and called it “at once round and tart,” with a “pleasant, intense fruit expression.”
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Bressandes, along with Renard and Clos du Roi…
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Bressandes, along with Renard and Clos du Roi, is considered the finest plot on the famous hill. The nose is massive and perfumed, with wild red fruits, fresh violets, and cocoa. The mouth is big, smooth, young and compact — Corton is a traditionally long-lived wine, and the Ravaut domaine has avoided modernizing the style. Kelley found it “full bodied, fleshy and elegantly muscular,” concluding “it has turned out very well.” Give this 5 years at least, and 10 if you can manage.
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Most years the domaine makes two Grand Cru…
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Most years the domaine makes two Grand Cru reds from Corton, one from the “Bressandes” vineyard and one from “Mourottes;” but in 2020 quantities were low enough that Vincent blended them into a single Corton Grand Cru. As he described it, the wine combines “the heat of Bressandes with the freshness of Corton.” It is indeed a big wine, very dense with fine-grained tannins, and will need some patience to realize its potential. When it is ready, though, it is sure to offer a very impressive glass. Look for dark cassis notes with plum and gingerbread. We doubt Vincent will go back to combining these two Grand Cru plots once he has the volume, but it’s an awfully nice combination.
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Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among…
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Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among the brightest names in the humble town of Auxey-Duresses, and a favorite of Vinous writer Neal Martin. Martin characterizes them as an “old-school producer” with “premier crus worth hunting down, as they represent good value.” Prunier’s finest wine is from Volnay’s finest vineyard, the premier cru “Caillerets.” The nose is dark and brooding, full of ripe cassis and toast. The mouth is classic Volnay, silky and elegant, but with an extra dose of muscle this year. Martin gave 90-92, finding “fine tannins, fresh and vibrant,” and remarking it “should age well in bottle.”
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"Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines…
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"Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s One of the seven Grand Crus of Chablis, Preuses is known for its intense floral and mineral character. Gautheron's is deep and brilliant, with Grand Cru richness cut by classical Chablisien stones. Morris found it, "spicy behind and now with some much richer fruit, certainly fresh apricots, and a start of peaches. Very juicy and delicious."
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia…
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware.  You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir. The vines in Chassagne 1er cru Embrazées are 63 years old, planted by Thomas’s grandfather in a field that had been abandoned after phylloxera. The 2022 is a stunner – long and lithe with deep fruit channeled beautifully into a concentrated core that ripples with energy and intensity. Morey’s usual restraint is in effect, and the wine is rich without an ounce of heaviness.
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia…
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware.  You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir. Chassagne 1er cru Morgeot, further down the slope, has more sun and more clay, and produces bolder wine that’s no less charming. Morey’s cuvée is a blend of two plots in the Morgeot sector, and it’s exceptional in 2022. Jasper Morris awarded 94-96 points and 5/5 stars, calling it “spectacular.” He writes “the bouquet indicates a wealth of fruit to come, and so it does, in several waves across the palate. This has layers of fruit waiting to develop over many years to come.”
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Vincent and Sylvie Boyer are brother and sister…
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Vincent and Sylvie Boyer are brother and sister winemakers with a mouthwatering collection of vines in and around Meursault and Puligny. One of our favorites of their many gems is a small plot just in back of their domaine called “Ormeau.” It was Vincent and Sylvie’s great grandmother Lucie who planted the vines here in 1924, and for over a century they’ve produced rich, gorgeous Meursault from their clay-rich soils. This is prototypical, sophisticated Meursault. The nose shows white peaches and citrus, with pear and a faint note of hazelnut. The mouth shows mouthfilling concentration and superb energy across a long, lingering finish. As always with the Boyers the balance is impeccable – Burghound cites “underlying tension” and “a subtle bead of minerality” with a “clean and nicely dry finale,” concluding “delicious.”
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Boursot’s hometown Chambolle-Musigny cuvées are truly delicious this…
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Boursot’s hometown Chambolle-Musigny cuvées are truly delicious this year. The 2021 Chambolle village saw 25% new oak, and the rest in old barrels and amphora – a combination designed to bring out fruit and keep the wine fresh. This formula has worked beautifully, as the oak is nearly undetectable and the mouth is smooth and gourmand. Given the concentration and pH levels the 2021s should age with ease, but it's already hard to put down. Look for cassis, violet, and Chambolle’s signature silky mineral texture.
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer…
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick smile and friendly demeanor, he’s traveled the world gaining extensive viticultural experience, and has brought real energy and renewed focus to his family’s tiny 5-hectare gem of an estate in Morey-St-Denis. He’s officially organic as of this year, but has already started the process of biodynamic certification. He has abandoned herbicides, planted cover crops, and this year begins an agroforestry project in the name of vineyard biodiversity. Léon’s vines here cover a wide swath of the terroir within the vineyard, and he credits the diversity of soils with the complexity of the wine. He’s able to blend elegant juice from up-slope stony sectors with rich juice from down-slope clay-rich soils; and the resulting wine has nearly unmatched complexity for its level.
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Poggerino’s finest wine is their Chianti Classico Riserva…
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Poggerino’s finest wine is their Chianti Classico Riserva called “Bugialla.” Like Poggerino’s other wines, this is pure, unblended Sangiovese. But the Riserva comes from their oldest vines -- nearly 45 years old now -- and is raised carefully in oak before bottling. Poggerino holds it a full year in the bottle before releasing it to the public. JANCIS ROBINSON: Lustrous ruby. Quite sweetly perfumed nose with plenty of depth. Juicy, crunchy red fruit on the palate, followed by firm, chewy tannins on the finish. Closes up a little but this wine shows true craftsmanship in a very difficult vintage.
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A few years ago Clive Coates MW named…
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A few years ago Clive Coates MW named the Domaine Michel Gros in the top 17 domaines in all of Burgundy — a list that included Romanée-Conti, Leroy, and Comtes Lafon — highlighting the “nobility and elegance” of his wines. Just outside the town’s most famous vineyard “Le Musigny,” Michel Gros cultivates a small collection of village-level vines. From this plot and three other smaller parcels, Gros crafts what may be the silkiest wine in his lineup: the village-level Chambolle-Musigny.
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They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in…
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They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in 1550, and nearly five centuries later they’re still farming many of the same soils. The most recent generation has upgraded the facilities and the focus, and their wines have begun to gain substantial critical interest. The 2019 “Chatelots” has a pleasant dark fruit nose with a nice dollop of toast. It represents a step up in intensity from the village, with lots of body and structure. Though clearly young, this wine is very Chambolle — silky and floral. Neal Martin awarded 90-92 points, and called it “all nicely defined and quite glossy,” predicting it would “drink nicely over 12 – 15 years.
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. Their 2022 Chambolle-Musigny is very Chambolle, with a pretty rather than powerful profile, and just the right touch of oak in the nose. The mid-palate has lovely ripe cherry fruit and fine-grained tannins.
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Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the…
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Vincent Boyer and his sister Sophie are the winemakers at this gem of an estate in Meursault. They farm a mouthwatering collection of vines in and around Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, including all three famous Meursault premier crus. They farm organically, and use a long elevage in barrels then concrete eggs to give their wines a regal depth and complexity. These are some of our favorite white Burgundies from anywhere. Reuchaux is a small village plot right near the town of Puligny which offers excellent value for its class, and is unusually good this year. The nose is stony and austere, with dried flowers, apple, lemon, and stones. The mouth is laser-focused and extremely elegant, with finely channeled sucrocité balanced on a chiseled stony core. “A lovely Puligny villages,” writes Burghound.
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The 2018 growing season was hotter and drier…
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The 2018 growing season was hotter and drier than anything in recent memory, and making wine under the scorching provencal sun was even toastier than usual. But Gigondas has some advantages amid ever warming seasons: it’s on the slope of a hill with excellent drainage, and the tall mountains (Dentelles de Montmirail) behind it foster continuous airflow. Harvest is often a week or two later than Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Goubert has just released the 2018 Gigondas “Florence,” after its two year elevage before bottling. It’s rich and bold and smooth, offering easy enjoyment and a perfect match for wintery weather. Jeb Dunnuck awarded 92-94 points, calling it “beautiful” and finding “focused texture.. and a great finish.”
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$115
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021…
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021 vintage is a marker of unusual talent. His unmarked cuverie is hidden down a back street in Nuits-St-Georges, and Cheron himself is quiet and pensive. But his wines more than speak for themselves. From a vineyard near the border with Vosne-Romanée. It was vinified from 100% whole bunches, which gave it a terrific intensity and depth. The nose is inky and dark with cassis and violets, the mouth long and sleek. Morris gave 92-95 points, finding “a gorgeous, airy, floral note to the bouquet, and the little dryness at the back which will soon disappear into the sweet cherry fruit.” The vines were planted in the mid nineteen-forties, and the special intensity and length of wine from truly old vines shows through.
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. The Morey St. Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes” is well-named. It is usually the first of the three to drink well, and that is likely to be the case with this vintage. Already aromatically expressive, it garnered praise from Allen Meadows (Burghound) for its “layered mix of red and dark pinot fruit, anise and soft floral wisps” as well as its “delicious, rich and quite suave medium-bodied flavors.”  This ages beautifully, but it’s hard to keep your hands off it young.
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. The Morey St. Denis 1er cru “Les Millandes” is a bigger wine, with more structure and the need for a little more time to integrate its elements.  There’s a bit more oak (30% new barrels vs. 20% in Charmes) and a similar increase in whole clusters. As Burghound put it, “The sleek, delicious, and tension-filled larger-bodied and tautly muscular flavors display the hallmark power of a classic Millandes.” This is very refined, and very Morey-St-Denis.
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer…
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick smile and friendly demeanor, he’s traveled the world gaining extensive viticultural experience, and has brought real energy and renewed focus to his family’s tiny 5-hectare gem of an estate in Morey-St-Denis. He’s officially organic as of this year, but has already started the process of biodynamic certification. He has abandoned herbicides, planted cover crops, and this year begins an agroforestry project in the name of vineyard biodiversity. This is the northernmost vineyard in Morey-St-Denis, and sits on the border with Charmes-Chambertin, a Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru. The charming silky quality for which “Charmes” is known is there in spades, with elegant notes of earth, cassis, and smoke. The classic, chiseled character of Morey-St-Denis is below the surface here too, and the combination is enticing. Burghound found it “succulent, round and seductively textured,” with a “velvety mid-palate.
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Chambolle-Musigny is known for its elegance and silky…
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Chambolle-Musigny is known for its elegance and silky texture, and indeed the Cherons’ cuvées here show exquisite polish. But they trend more towards deepness and intensity, making them terrific candidates for aging. Today’s wine is from the outstanding 2019 vintage, now six years on from harvest. Chambolle is usually delicious right from the barrel, but it’s only with a few years’ age that the town’s magic really shines through. Couvent’s Chambolle-Musigny “Clos de l’Orme” is from a village plot bordering the strip of premier crus, a vineyard rich in minerals with excellent drainage. Cheron bottles the rest of his village Chambolle plots together, but holds this one out for its refined intensity. Jasper Morris found it “attractive, balanced and long,” and Neal Martin writes of its "succulent black cherry and blueberry fruit, smooth and harmonious.”
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We have been buying Côte Rotie made by…
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We have been buying Côte Rotie made by Christophe Bonnefond for some twenty years now, and have watched his style evolve. His wines have always had plenty of stuffing, but over the years he has dialed back the oak and extraction, and his wines now show a particularly elegant, deft touch. This year the Domaine released a wine made By Christophe’s daughter Lea, a blend of grapes from Roziers and Rochins called “Dans les Vignes de Mon Père.” Apparently the apple falls not far from the tree. Made with 100% whole clusters, this wine is ultra-dense, almost unctuous in the mouth but supported by lots of structure. Josh Raynolds awarded 93-95, finding it “juicy, appealingly sweet and concentrated yet lively on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, cherry liqueur and spice cake flavors and a hint of candied flowers on the back half.”
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous…
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better. Vinous 97. "Deep violet color. Bright and energetic on the intensely perfumed nose, displaying vibrant red and blue fruit, bacon fat and floral scents that take on olive and exotic spice notes as the wine opens up. In a distinctly vibrant style, offering appealingly sweet, mineral-tinged cherry, black raspberry, mocha, salty olive, clove and allspice flavors, plus suggestions of licorice and cola. Finishes extremely long and smooth, with just a hint of fine-grained, polished tannins and resonating floral and spice notes."
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The Grand Cru of Corton is massive. Stretching…
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The Grand Cru of Corton is massive. Stretching across a prominent hill just north of Beaune, the vineyard covers 236 acres, just 40 less than the entire appellation of Morey-St-Denis. The terroirs vary widely across the giant vineyard, and so it’s further divided into dozens of smaller “climats.” The finest of these are the three farthest north in the middle of the slope: Bressandes, Clos du Roi, and Renardes. The humble family domaine of Gaston and Pierre Ravaut has made wine from the hill of Corton for generations. Longtime local customers account for the majority of their business, and there’s barely a sign on the front door. The Ravauts make excellent whites and reds from the towns surrounding the hill, but the jewel of their collection is their plot of Grand Cru Corton-Bressandes.
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The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Champonnet” is the…
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The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Champonnet” is the best version of the wine we've had. The nose is sleek and delicious, the clear oak notes mingle with the dark blackcurrant fruit. But its pedigree really shines in the mouth: there’s plenty of substance and really good balance to boot. Look for notes of cassis, gingerbread and an enticing, suave texture. This Champonnet offers more finesse and elegance than the village level Meix, and for a premier cru it is surprisingly expressive right now. More from Varoilles
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot…
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot has become the Domaine Amiot et Fils. Jean-Louis’s brother Didier has gone off on his own, and son Léon has joined Jean-Louis and Chantal in the business. Ruchots is a perfectly located vineyard considered the finest premier cru in the town. This vineyard sits between the Grand Cru Clos de Tart and the Roumiers’ monopole “Clos de la Bussiere,” and the wine it produces is what you’d expect – intense, masculine, bold, and beautiful. The 2020 shows a striking combination of finesse and power. Burghound gave 90-93 points, calling it “outstanding,” “sappy” and “velvet-textured” with “excellent volume.”
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Founded in 1997 by Angelo Sassi, the small…
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Founded in 1997 by Angelo Sassi, the small estate is today run by Davide Carniel, producing just a few hundred cases of Barbaresco annually. Both of the wines we’re offering come from San Cristoforo, a well known Barbaresco cru in the heart of the appellation. The nose is deep and lovely, with beautifully integrated oak and notes of roses, violets, and orange zest. The mouth is clean and beautifully textured, with subtle tannins and a long, tightly channeled finish. The balance of tannin and fruit and acidity is magnificent – think Volnay premier cru with a few years in the bottle. It’s denser than the regular cuvée, and should age well over the short- to mid- term.
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This vineyard lies at the top of the…
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This vineyard lies at the top of the slope in Vosne, adjoining the Grand Cru Richebourgs and the Premier Crus Aux Brûlées and Henri Jayer’s famous “Clos Parantoux.” (The view alone is worth the trip to see it.)  This wine blew us away – impossibly fine and delicate, but with density and length. The shallow limestone soil and unusual north-easterly exposition balance the extreme ripeness of the vintage, and the resulting wine is a masterpiece. Jasper Morris gave it five stars (his top rating) and awarded it 93-95 points, calling it “really quite a striking Vosne-Romanée, though it will need time in the bottle to express itself fully.”
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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers…
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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny house in Cramant in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. All of their wines come from grapes they grow themselves, and their vineyards are 100% Chardonnay from exclusively Grand Cru vineyards. Everything here is done by hand, from harvesting and riddling to disgorging, dosing and labeling. The base of this wine (around two thirds) is from the 2017 vintage, with the rest from barrels of reserved older wines. After four years on the lees this is rich and toasty, with a lovely nose of pear, apple and buttery croissants. The mouth is crisp and delicious with plenty of richness amid the energetic freshness. William Kelley awarded 90 points, finding “generous aromas…rich and fleshy, with an enveloping core of fruit.”
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Roger Belland's delicious organic whites are outstanding in…
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Roger Belland's delicious organic whites are outstanding in 2022, delivering wines packed with fruit, energy, and depth. The Clos Pitois blanc is classic Chassagne: big wine that at its best offers weight without heaviness. In 2022 there is already a beautiful nose, a subtle blend of fruit and oak.  In the mouth it is very concentrated and dense, with a near-Grand Cru level of intensity.  It persists on the palate remarkably well. No one will refuse a second glass of this today, but this wine ages magnificently
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Thirtysomething Justine Clerget (Christian’s daughter) is now in…
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Thirtysomething Justine Clerget (Christian’s daughter) is now in charge of this tiny gem of a domaine in Vougeot. She's brought renewed energy, refined techniques, and a passion for organic viticulture. The Clerget wines were always classical, terroir-transparent, old school red Burgundy; Justine has maintained this spirit but added polish and class. Their Chambolle 1er cru “Les Charmes” is appropriately named– a charming, classically Chambolle wine with a terrific dose of depth and intensity. Neal Martin gave 92-94 points, calling it “very well-crafted” with “fine tannins” and “silky-smooth texture.” Not to be outdone, Jasper Morris gave 92-95, finding “a joyous, almost rumbustious energy,” and “excellent length.”
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Thirtysomething Justine Clerget (Christian’s daughter) is now in…
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Thirtysomething Justine Clerget (Christian’s daughter) is now in charge of this tiny gem of a domaine in Vougeot. She's brought renewed energy, refined techniques, and a passion for organic viticulture. The Clerget wines were always classical, terroir-transparent, old school red Burgundy; Justine has maintained this spirit but added polish and class. Broad, sturdy and delicious, this is not a wine you’ll soon forget. Burghound found “lovely mid-palate texture” and awarded 91-93; Neal Martin found it “very well balanced,” concluding “a solid, well-crafted Vougeot.” This will need at least a few years before opening, and will reward 10-15 with ease.
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. Morey St. Denis premier cru “Les Ruchots” is the best premier cru in town, and just down the slope from the Grand Cru Clos de Tart, and just up from the Domaine Roumier’s monopole Clos de la Bussière. From what most consider the best premier cru terroir in the village, this wine combines intensity and elegance, with exceedingly fine-grained tannins that produce what Burghound calls “a caressing, even sappy, mouthfeel.”
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Philippe Cheron is an excellent winemaker farming 10…
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Philippe Cheron is an excellent winemaker farming 10 hectares around the Côte de Nuits -- limited oak, whole clusters where needed, sleek, modern, terroir-transparent, muscled Burgundies. “Aux Murgers” Nuits St. Georges premier cru is from 80 year old vines in a parcel Cheron’s grandfather bought in 1938. This is a highly concentrated wine, vinified from 100% whole clusters. Cheron described it to us as “dark, somber, and rich,” and it is all that and much more.  Burghound praised its “spicy aromas of black pinot fruit, earth and spiced game nuances.” This is dense and sleek; the rich stem-fermented core is entirely enveloped in deep inky fruit.
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This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie…
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This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie Bohrmann, a domaine in Meursault whose wines we discovered in a Beaune restaurant. Her wines are quietly brilliant, many hailing from well-known vineyards in St-Aubin, Puligny and Meursault. Her 2022 white Burgundies are terrific – low in alcohol, full of ripe fruit and excellent freshness, with terrific concentration and appealing textures. Puligny’s calling card is a chiseled angularity that sets it up well for aging; but this wine has enough premier cru level richness to merit early drinking. The stony concentration in this wine is extraordinary – chalk and savory white pepper mix with with notes of apple crisp and gardenia. This is high class white Burgundy, and one that would be hard to top in a lineup of its peers.
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