Red Burgundy Verticals
Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.
Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.
So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.
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 | Martin-Luneau’s crus are attractively priced, but their “Deux Roches”… (+) Martin-Luneau’s crus are attractively priced, but their “Deux Roches” 2018 cuvée is even more so. “Deux Roches” is a reference to the two types of rock on which the grapes are grown: Gabbro and Granite. The vines are all from Clisson and Gorges, and so the wine would be eligible for “Cru” status by virtue of location; but the family has elected to make a refreshing blend for this cuvée, which is priced like a simpler wine. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $19 | |
 | The fruit here recalls ripe pears with a… (+) The fruit here recalls ripe pears with a touch of white peach, and it’s a very pleasant combination. But what makes the wine just right for sipping on the back porch or roof deck on a muggy July evening is its weight: light and refreshing rather than deep and unctuous. With an (almost unheard of) alcohol level of just 11.5% and a fresh, lively palate, it will be just the thing to sip at the end of a long hot summer’s day. And at the price it is wine to enjoy early and often all summer long. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $19 | |
 | Jean-Louis Tribouley practices organic farming, biodynamics, and low… (+) Jean-Louis Tribouley practices organic farming, biodynamics, and low intervention. His property is high in the hills of the Roussillon, a remote winemaking area near France’s border with Spain. The vines grow on schist and gneiss/granite, and range from 40 to 70 years old.
“Copines” 2020 is like its 2019 predecessor: a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Carignan. The Grenache dominates here — if you have ever had strawberry jam made from wild strawberries, you will recognize the aromatics. Though the wine is technically dry, the fruit is almost sweet. Serve it cool in the summer and at cellar temperature in other seasons, and you will be surprised how quickly your stock dwindles. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Frey’s Pinot Blanc “Eclectic” is one of our… (+) Frey’s Pinot Blanc “Eclectic” is one of our favorite summer sippers. It’s expressive and floral in the nose, with ripe orchard fruit, white spices and occasional exotic notes. You’d almost expect it to be sweet from the bouquet, but the mouth is dry and vibrant, with a hint of grapeskin bitterness alongside the melon-apple fruit.
There’s enough body to make it attractive all by itself, as an aperitif alongside a salty snack; but it’s also light enough to be an attractive partner to a dinner salad at the end of a muggy summer afternoon, whether on a roof deck, patio, or at an outdoor picnic.
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 | Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting… (+) Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift.
Those who love Bonnefond's wines would be well advised to stock up on the 2023 Syrah as well. This wine trails the Côte Rôties in complexity and length, of course, but this Syrah from the humble regional appellation is simply delicious, offering a juicy and energetic glass with a glimpse of the pepper and black olive notes that make the top wines so compelling.
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 | Paget’s 2023 Melodie is quietly beautiful, with an… (+) Paget’s 2023 Melodie is quietly beautiful, with an almost Chablisien array of grapeskin and minerals – clean, pure and delightful. The nose is floral and dry, with faint pear notes and a hint of apple. Even in a warm year Paget has managed to craft a refreshing cuvée — at a steely 12% alcohol it’s beautifully balanced, and a refreshing break from the palate-coating wines that dominate the market these days. Serve with fresh goat cheese on crusty bread and rejoice in simplicity. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Didier and Celine Sanzay are fifth generation growers… (+) Didier and Celine Sanzay are fifth generation growers in Saumur-Champigny producing fresh, pure Cabernet Franc in the modern Loire style -- small batch, organic, wild yeasts, no fining or filtering. Their 2023s in particular are “Loire classique” Didier told us last week – a return to the refreshing, low-alcohol.
Their 2023 Saumur-Champigny is exactly what you want Loire Cab Franc to be: pure, joyful, unoaked, and fresh. Clean, juicy fruit bursts from the glass on the nose — think wild cherries and graphite. The mouth is fresh, fruit forward, inky, and intense, with a bold and vibrant attack and a quick clean finish. Picture a juicy Beaujolais with more serious texture and darker fruit. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Poggerino is often cited as a reference point… (+) Poggerino is often cited as a reference point for Chianti Classico. Vinous writes of their Poggerino’s “remarkable purity and nuance,” and Rajat Parr calls their wines “excellent” and “some of the purest expressions of the grape in Italy.” A few years ago they introduced a rosato, and as you'd expect it's simply delicious.
A pure sangiovese rosé with excellent definition. It offers lively freshness, attractive fruit and at 12.5% alcohol just the right weight. The nose is drier than the Sanzay, with stony freshness and dried rose petal notes. Serve with a caprese salad or grilled vegetables dressed in good olive oil. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | Florence Cartier continues to steer her family’s Southern… (+) Florence Cartier continues to steer her family’s Southern Rhône domaine with a calm, thoughtful hand, producing traditional southern Rhône cuvées in the best sense of the term. They’re distinct in style from many of our low-intervention Southern Rhône sources – Joncuas, André, Malmont, to name a few. Goubert’s wines are clean and consistent, comfortingly old-school in character and taste.
Goubert’s 2023 Côtes du Rhône is delightful. It’s unoaked, low-alcohol, middleweight, and very refreshing, with the spirit of a Cru Beaujolais or a Loire Valley cab franc. It’s a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carginan, and an unusual local grape called Brun Argenté or Vaccarèse. In some vintages it’s of a rugged character – this year it’s summerweight, with less extraction and gentler tannin. Look for notes of strawberry and garrigue, and serve outdoors with pizza as the spring weather returns – a useful, tasty vin de soif. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
| We find ourselves reaching for Loire reds often… (+) We find ourselves reaching for Loire reds often these days, whatever the occasion – they’re characterful, refreshing, complex and downright tasty.Our source for these delicious wines is the Domaine des Sanzay, a fifth generation organic domaine in Saumur-Champigny in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.
The 2024 Saumur Champigny is fresh, juicy and beautiful. The nose shows cranberry and spring flowers, and no oak (it’s fully raised in tank). The mouth is crackling and refreshing with a quick clean finish and low alcohol. This cuvée is always easy to like, but the 2024 is particularly lively and gulpable. Drink on its own, particularly in the springtime, or with a pizza. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $22 | |
 | After a near electrocution more than a decade… (+) After a near electrocution more than a decade ago, winemaker Denis Basset decided to pursue his personal passion and began making wine from the family’s long-established vineyards.
The 2020 Crozes-Hermitage “Fleur Enchantée” is all of 13% alcohol – refreshingly fresh despite its abundant dark fruit. The nose shows clove and blackberry, with black pepper and hints of earth – the oak is barely perceptible. The mouth is young and juicy with dark tannins and plenty of zip. The blackberry/plum fruit joins a fresh minerality and long dusty finish.
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| Christophe Bonnefond’s Syrah is one of the only… (+) Christophe Bonnefond’s Syrah is one of the only wines in our portfolio with a “Vin de Pays” appellation, the broadest category in France. It’s always carried Bonnefond’s signature elegance and tension, most famously found in their terrific and well known Côte Rôties, but with less complexity and aging potential. It’s exactly the type of wine you’d expect to shine in a vintage like 2022…
…and you’d be right. The 2022 Syrah is downright delicious – bursting with cool blueberry and raspberry fruit, the tannins are juicy and delicious. At only 13.5% alcohol it’s not a bit flat or heavy – a gorgeous vibrant texture underlies the dark fruit and savory spice, making it as hard to put down as a bag of potato chips. Serve with takeout pizza on a weeknight.
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| Winemaker Denis Basset of the Domaine Saint Clair… (+) Winemaker Denis Basset of the Domaine Saint Clair in Crozes Hermitage walks the line between tradition and modernity with skill and grace. His punchy, delicious wines are always beautifully crafted, minimally oaked, and bursting with dark fruit, terrific freshness, and friendly prietags.
The 2021 Crozes-Hermitage “Fleur Enchantée” is all of 13% alcohol – laser focused, perfectly balanced Syrah. The nose shows clove and blackberry, with black pepper and hints of earth – the oak is barely perceptible. The mouth is young and juicy with dark tannins and plenty of zip. The blackberry/plum fruit joins a fresh minerality and long dusty finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Located in Vouvray in the central Loire Valley… (+) Located in Vouvray in the central Loire Valley, Fontainerie is a small 6-hectare estate producing delicious wines of pure Chenin Blanc. The winemaker is Catherine Dhoye-Deruet – she’s run the place since the 90s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s.
This cuvée is just what we want from Vouvray – pure, classic, refreshing Chenin blanc, raised in steel (no oak) and fermented fully dry. The nose is floral and fresh, with notes of apple blossom, ripe pear, saffron and chalk. The mouth is clean and crisp, with smooth fruit and a clean finish. Simple, delightful summertime Chenin blanc. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | The development of botrytis is encouraged by the mists that… (+) The development of botrytis is encouraged by the mists that waft up from the Garonne River (one of two that flow into the Gironde estuary) as the harvest nears. Our producer of this remarkable wine, the Chateau Voigny, lies just a few yards up the bank from the Garonne, and so reliably produces classic Sauternes in almost every year. Sauternes is one of the world’s iconic wines, a favorite of kings and presidents throughout history; but Voigny’s terrific pricing, we hasten to say, brings this fabled dessert wine within everyone’s reach. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | We stumbled upon this source last spring during… (+) We stumbled upon this source last spring during our visit to the area, far off the beaten path at the northern end of the Haut-Médoc. Their humble Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend is simply delicious, and has earned Cru Bourgeois status. We tasted several vintages, but the intense, jam-packed 2020 caught our eye.
It’s rich and smooth with deep violet, wild cherries, and plums; there’s gentle tannin to keep it in line, well integrated oak, and a clean savory finish. A delicious workhorse Bordeaux that’s unimpressed with itself. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
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 | Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape… (+) Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape varietal with common Côtes du Rhônes, but little else. Chauvin’s tiny Domaine le Souverain has no website, no road sign, and barely a phone number -- his cellar is a converted garage. But his wines have more complexity and depth than nearly anything else we taste at their level, and manage to remain a bargain.
Like the Seguret, this wine is entirely vat-raised. It is made from 55% Grenache and 30% Syrah, with the balance from Mourvedre. The Sablet 22 offers the same rich and round mouthfeel, but the Mourvedre adds a dark cherry tone to the fruit. Eric said that the Mourvedre “helps to hold the fruit,” and indeed the added complexity made the wine even more attractive. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Florence Cartier continues to steer her family’s domaine… (+) Florence Cartier continues to steer her family’s domaine with a calm, thoughtful hand, producing traditional southern Rhône cuvées in the best sense of the term. They’re distinct in style from many of our low-intervention Southern Rhône sources – Joncuas, André, Malmont, to name a few. Goubert’s wines are clean and consistent, comfortingly old-school in character and taste.
Goubert’s Beaumes de Venise rouge has become one of our favorite cuvées in recent years, and the 2023 is the best yet. It’s a grenache-syrah-mourvedre blend from a single vineyard plot. The town is best known for its sweet dessert wine from Muscat, but this terroir is well suited to red. The nose is deep and floral with beautiful violet and lavender notes, and hints of plum jam. The mouth is smooth and rich with excellent freshness and a delicate stoniness inlaid among the abundant strawberry and raspberry fruit. The balance is impeccable, and the texture perfectly suited to the fruit. It’s hard to imagine a more impressive $25 red. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Michot’s style is straightforward – no oak, old… (+) Michot’s style is straightforward – no oak, old vines producing fresh, dry, low-alcohol wine. It’s rarely the fanciest wine on a table, but it’s often the first bottle empty. Its brisk texture and lovely dry fruit make it pairable with a long list of foods, from cheese (goat is best), to oysters, to chicken, to paté, to nothing at all.
Michot’s 2024 is everything you want in an everyday Loire white – dry, refreshing, low alcohol (12.5%), smooth, and inexpensive. Made from 40-70 year old vines, there’s excellent concentration and great length. The nose shows lime, stones and grapefruit; the mouth is clear and crisp, with an easygoing, dry finish. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | The Ravaut’s Aligoté is from a particularly well… (+) The Ravaut’s Aligoté is from a particularly well placed plot, just north of the famous Hill of Corton. Winemaker Vincent Ravaut uses malolactic fermentation and a year of aging on lees to add complexity and depth
The 2023 in particular is just lovely. The scorching hot vintage has added a bit of flesh to the refreshing aligoté energy, and the resulting wine is unusually good. Look for soft fruit and a white flower nose, with brisk freshness and notes of lemon pulp and straw in the mouth. It’s a lovely everyday white Burgundy at a very attractive price. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
| The 2024 IGP Syrah “Sensation du Nord,” is… (+) The 2024 IGP Syrah “Sensation du Nord,” is fresh, beautiful, and a remarkable value. Syrah of the Northern Rhône represents the grape at its most subtle, and even at this humble appellation there’s an elegance and detail that’s not possible from the grape grown elsewhere. The nose is dark and floral, with delicate flowers, fruit and a bit of spice. The tannins are light and crackling – think a beaujolais but with a bluer hue. This is a warm weather red, at home at a picnic table or tailgate. Serve with charcuterie. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | Muscadet is a crisp, precise, dry white wine… (+) Muscadet is a crisp, precise, dry white wine that is the essence of freshness. It’s also abundant and inexpensive. Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, the best examples are raised “sur lie” (on the lees) to add complexity. In recent years Muscadet has undergone a reinvention of sorts with the elevation of three of the region’s best towns to a new “Cru Communal” status.
Combining exceptional terroir with extended years on the lees, this is an unusually complex take on a classic. The 2022 Gorges is pure and clean, showing melon, dried spring flowers, and lemon zest. The mouth is smooth and very dry, with notes of salt air, stones, and green apple skins. It’s refreshing and full of energy. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
 | One of our favorite sources in the Northern… (+) One of our favorite sources in the Northern Rhône for many years has been Denis Basset’s Domaine Saint Clair. Basset’s family has grown grapes (and flowers) in the town of Beaumont-Monteux for generations; but more than a decade ago, after a near-death experience with a high voltage line, he resolved to take over the family’s vines and to create his own domaine.
The 2023 vintage was hot and dry for just about everywhere in France, and growing conditions were also exemplary in the Northern Rhône. Basset's 2023 Etincelle has ample freshness and very good ripeness of fruit. Aromatically, there’s a pleasant note of clove mixing with Syrah’s dark fruit and graphite. It's middleweight, fresh, and very clean – perfect for a weeknight glass while you throw together dinner. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $25 | |
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 | Aligoté continues to enjoy its time in the… (+) Aligoté continues to enjoy its time in the Burgundian spotlight. The traditional Burgundian grape varietal has always made up about 10% of the region’s white vines, but a new group of self-titled “Aligoteurs,” spurred on by warmer, drier summers and a hunt for value, have championed the grape and have pushed its possibilities of expression. And you’d expect from the hottest, driest vintage yet, Vincent’s 2022 Aligoté is terrific. Burghound awarded it both his “top value” and “outstanding” designations, finding it “sleek, delicious and nicely concentrated’ with “a lovely sense of vibrancy,” concluding “an excellent example of the genre.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for… (+) We have worked with the Domaine Vessigaud for just a few vintages, but we see the same knack for making the most of the clay-limestone terroir that underlies Pouilly-Fuissé’s possibilities. Vessigaud is Demeter certified (the highest Biodynamic level), and the results in the glass are obvious: vibrant wines full of tension and bursting with life. We are not alone in our views — as William Kelley writes: “succulent but serious, any bottle bearing Vessigaud’s label is worth seeking out.”
The Macon Solutre-Pouilly 2023 comes from a plot in Pouilly, along the line between the hamlets of Pouilly and Fuissé. The Vessigauds vinify and raise it in large oak foudres for eleven months, where micro-oxygenation develops density and flavor rather than any apparent oak. The 2023 is much like the 2022, which became the house white for many of our fans of white Burgundy. There is surprising depth and length for a wine of this pedigree, with pure Chardonnay fruit and excellent tension. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | Vouvray is in the central Loire, an area… (+) Vouvray is in the central Loire, an area known for its Chenin Blanc planted in an unusual type of soft limestone called tuffeau. Like many in Vouvray, Catherine Dhoye-Deruet's caves are carved into the tuffeau right below her vines – it’s a unique and remarkable place, and one that can produce terrific wines.
The 2016 Vouvray Demi-Sec was perhaps the most exciting wine at the Fontainerie tasting. At just 20g of residual sugar – compared with, say, 120g for Sauternes – this is barely sweet. In fact the splash of RS serves as just one element among many, along with a burst of stony freshness, clean acidity, and lush tropical fruit. With its near decade in the bottle, the fruit has developed into an extraordinary array of flavors, including raisins, dried mango, baked pear, yellow plum, and others unnamed / unknowable. But the end of the palate finishes with an elegant and vibrant tension. This wine has the sweetness of a lightly sweetened cocktail – think a Tom Collins or Whisky Sour – with the same acidity to balance. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
| Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit… (+) Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of the international wine press. He’s an insiders’ producer with a mouthwatering collection of terroirs; together with his sister Sylvie who handles much of the viticulture, they continue to turn out magnificent expressions of their unparalleled terroir. Boyer’s 2023s are simply delicious – juicy and fleshy and approachable, but with excellent tension and low alcohol.Boyer’s Aligoté transcends the grape’s humble reputation, offering real white Burgundy with a middle weight palate and excellent concentration. Boyer elected to use foudres (huge oak barrels) this year instead of eggs, and while you won’t find any toasty notes in the wine, there’s a beautiful weight and length. The 2023 is more floral than usual, and exceptionally pretty. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $28 | |
 | We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now… (+) We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now, but we were pleased to see the Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert William Kelley visit last year. After tasting Kelley wrote that “Picamelot produces some of the best sparkling wines in Burgundy,” calling them “elegant,” “excellent,” and “superb.”
This nose is clean and elegant, with notes of almond, pineapple, and cream. The mouth is very dry, quite lively, and crisply refreshing, with apple fruit and a long vinous finish. At under $30 this continues to be a steal; pair this with a warm Friday afternoon. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled… (+) Considering the tiny yields achieved from these shriveled grapes, the low price of this wine is remarkable. Voigny’s nose and mouth are full of the classic honeysuckle, apricots and peaches, but it’s the acidity that keeps this wine lively. Many sweet wines lack acidity and fall flat – Voigny is bursting with freshness to balance out its sweetness.
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There may be no more perfect food-wine pairing than Sauternes with seared foie gras. If your stomach (or conscience) is too sensitive, serve blue cheese as a salty foil instead. Or serve a small glass in place of dessert at the end of the meal. A favorite wine of Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, this iconic wine will round out any cellar with style. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
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 | Vincent Boyer is among the small group of… (+) Vincent Boyer is among the small group of vignerons who watched the region warming and recognized its potential to elevate the quality of Aligoté, Chardonnay’s poor relation. Les Aligoteurs, as they are known, have brought Aligoté light years beyond its skinny, acidic past. Vincent raises his Aligoté in older versions of the same barrels he uses for his famous wines from Meursault and Puligny, which gives the wine a roundness and weight that we wouldn’t have thought possible from this modest grape. Burghound praised the 2021’s “exceptionally fresh aromas includ[ing] those of lemon rind, green apple and spice,” and its “very fine persistence on the clean and agreeably dry finish.” (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | Sisters Dany and Carole Chastan are third generation… (+) Sisters Dany and Carole Chastan are third generation vigneronnes practicing old-school winemaking -- whole clusters, limited sulfur, all wild yeasts. They use no new oak, and neither fine nor filter. Their wines are juicy and deep and very expressive, with gorgeous fruit. Writer Jon Bonné has named them a benchmark producer of the region, “essential defenders of grenache’s good name.”
Their just-arrived 2022 Vacqueyras is delicious, and a terrific value. From an appellation just south of Gigondas, this is nearly all Grenache (85%). The nose is extraordinary, bursting with dark wild strawberry fruit, plums, lavender, bay leaf and earth – a splash of Mourvedre adds complexity and backbone. It’s a crowd-pleasing everyday red that will offer immediate pleasure. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | Paget’s Chinon blanc 2021 is pure Chenin blanc… (+) Paget’s Chinon blanc 2021 is pure Chenin blanc, this one raised in large barrels (none new). The oak is deftly handled, and you might not even notice it if you didn’t know what to look for – it adds a bit of depth and white pepper to the clean orchard fruit. It’s deeper in the nose than the most dry Chenin Blanc – think gardenia and rose – but with the same pretty pear fruit.
The 2021 is drier than last year’s, and we think more sophisticated and impressive. There’s a savory grape-skin minerality to the wine that gives a mouthwatering texture reminiscent of Chablis. It’s a classy wine that should pair well with a range of springtime foods – a lobster roll, crab cakes, or raclette grilled cheese. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | Amiot's Coteaux-Bourguignons is a traditional Burgundian blend of… (+) Amiot's Coteaux-Bourguignons is a traditional Burgundian blend of 50/50 Gamay and Pinot Noir. The gamay comes from a 60 year old plot of vines in Morey-St-Denis, and for decades the blended cuvée was reserved just for the family. It blends the rugged muscly character of gamay with the finesse and silky texture of pinot noir. The resulting wine is a delightful aperitif – a marriage of the untamed soul of the Beaujolais with the polish and detail of Burgundian Pinot Noir. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | The Godon-Reverdys are from a storied Sancerre family… (+) The Godon-Reverdys are from a storied Sancerre family that has produced wine in Sancerre for generations. They’re certified organic, and in fact use many biodynamic treatments they find useful, as well as a team of sheep to keep grasses down and soil fertilized. Their wines are classic Sancerre, and among the most popular in the store.
Alliance ‘24 offers beautiful sauvignon fruit with aromatic overlays of grapefruit and some orchard fruit, perhaps white peach. Alliance is generous for a Sancerre, but in the mouth there’s a spine of freshness that keeps the wine bright enough through the palate. It is classic and delicious. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
| Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in… (+) Denis Basset produces delicious all-Syrah red wine in Crozes-Hermitage, the modest close relation of the superstar appellations of Hermitage, Côte Rôtie and Cornas. Happily, the pricing is decidedly also modest, and over a decade or so Domaine Saint Clair has developed a loyal following among friends of Ansonia Wines. As you have heard us say before, the greatest expression of any grape comes at the northern end of its range, which explains the Northern Rhône where Syrah makes superb reds without an assist from Grenache or other red grapes from farther South.Saint Clair’s old vine cuvée is called “Fleur Enchantée.” It is more serious and ageworthy than Étincelle and raised entirely in oak barrels. The 2023 Fleur Enchantée is delicious, with plenty of density and concentration. There’s a touch of menthol mingling with the fruit, and at 13% alcohol the balance of the wine is perfect. You can start sampling this right away, but over the next year or so it will add some velvet in the mouth and complexity in the nose. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | Basset’s white Crozes-Hermitage “Un Matin” has an enthusiastic following, not… (+) Basset’s white Crozes-Hermitage “Un Matin” has an enthusiastic following, not only among Ansonia clients but among restaurants in his region. In fact we had to wait a few years before we were allocated any, so popular is the wine among local restaurateurs. It is easy to see why: “Un Matin” is an aromatic and expressive blend of Marsanne and Roussane that recalls Condrieu in its unctuous texture and exuberant nose. To maintain freshness, Denis planted additional Marsanne about five years ago, and those grapes, raised in stainless steel, are now finding their way into the wine. The Roussanne gets about seven months of aging in oak barrels, which provides the roundness and gras (“fat”) that makes the wine so appealing as an aperitif. The final blend is a delicious combination of 55% Marsanne and 45% Roussanne. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | The Loire Valley continues to be one of… (+) The Loire Valley continues to be one of the most exciting corners of winemaking in France, where organic viticulture, balanced wines, and affordable prices are the rule rather than the exception. Our source for these reds is the Domaine des Sanzay, a fifth generation organic domaine in Saumur-Champigny in the central Loire. Their unblended Cabernet Franc wines have become highly popular in our warehouse, opening tasters’ eyes to a new expression of the grape.The Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes spends a year in big barrels and the current release is the 2023. It’s darker and more serious than the regular cuvée, with the old vines bringing concentration and depth of flavor. The nose is dried roses and wild cherries; the mouth is dark and rugged with earthy notes and a delicious saline finish. The old-vine cuvée lasts far longer on the palate, with more supporting tannin. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $29 | |
 | The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge… (+) The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. We’ll admit some skepticism as they explained that they play baroque music in their cave so the auditory vibrations can help the extraction — but one taste of these cremes and you won’t care what they do to make it.
The French most often use these crèmes for a kir or kir royale — a glass of aligoté or sparkling wine with a splash of crème. It’s a refreshing, delightful cocktail that’s distinct, elegant, and festive. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real… (+) Sanzay also makes more serious reds, with real aging potential and sophistication. Our choice in the 2018 vintage is Saumur-Champigny “Les Dares,” from 55 year-old vines and raised in small oak barrels for 15 months. In this wine a pleasant dose of oak joins the fruit. It’s very attractive in the mouth: round in the opening but with plenty of supporting structure and very nice length. Fine grained tannins support the notes of cranberry, cassis and silky minerality. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
| Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare… (+) Winemaker Catherine Dhoye-Deruet has run her small 6-hectare estate since the 1990s, and it’s been in her family since the early 1700s.
With 30 grams of residual sugar and excellent minerality, this Demi-Sec is lightly sweet – picture the sweetness in a bowl of ripe berries rather than a slice of cake. The nose is tropical and wonderful, showing quince, pear, and cooked apples. The mouth is smooth, elegant and quite long, with a beautiful velvety texture and almost a hint of tannin. This cuvée probably isn’t sweet enough for dessert – we’d serve it with a spicy Asian dish, sushi with a healthy dose of wasabi, or fish tacos alongside salsa with some authority. (-) Free East Coast Shipping | $32 | |
 | If you like your Loire reds more serious… (+) If you like your Loire reds more serious and ageworthy, here’s an exciting find. The nose shows smoke and anise, which have both started to integrate beautifully into the fruit; and we expect the trend to continue. The 50+ year old vines contribute impressive richness, which the Sanzay Family have handled masterfully -- despite all of the inky, old-vine material, the shape of the wine remains fine and precise (even angular).
This is Cabernet Franc at its most Burgundian -- intense, earthy fruit that somehow retains its lift and sophistication. We expect this to improve for another 3-4 years, and wouldn’t be surprised it it was still impressive in a decade. Lightweight, carefree Cabernet Franc is useful and delicious, but here’s ample proof the grape can perform on a higher level.
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