Red Burgundy Verticals

Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.

Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.

So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.

 

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A cool summer and wet August provided the…
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A cool summer and wet August provided the wines with an extra dose a crisp freshness, a throwback to the Syrahs of yesteryear. They’re just starting to come on the market, and we’re thrilled to release our first today: the Vin de Pays Syrah “Confluence” from Domaine de Boisseyt. Boisseyt’s humble syrah far outperforms its alarmingly low pricetag, showing none of the rusticity you might expect from a sub-$25 wine. The nose is classic and dark, with blackberry, clove, violets and blueberries. The mouth, clocking in at an unheard of 12.5% alcohol, bursts with ripe fruit and pitch-perfect freshness.
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$2
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$3
Ribaude’s Organic Dry Cider is made from 30…
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Ribaude’s Organic Dry Cider is made from 30 apple varieties collected in two separate harvests — one in October, one in November. The apples are washed, crushed, and fermented with ambient yeasts. The fermentation takes two months, and reaches an alcohol of between 3 and 5%. The nose is floral and earthy, with notes of dried fruit and dried roses or daisies. The mouth is very dry, with a hint of tannin, relatively low acid, and a faint tartness — notes of black tea, leaves, baked apples, allspice, straw and almonds.  Serve this with another Norman delicacy: carefully ripened Camembert.
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$15
Ribaude makes a Rosé cider from pink-fleshed apples. It’s…
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Ribaude makes a Rosé cider from pink-fleshed apples. It’s not organic like the other cuvées but we found it terrific. It’s particularly well balanced — more tart than the Organic Dry, with both more fruit and more acid. The nose shows notes of ripe tart apples, spices, and orange peel. The mouth is crisp and refreshing, with less funk and a bit more fruit. It’s still not sweet, but not as bone-dry as the Organic Dry. Serve with appetizers at a late-summer dinner party, or with homemade crèpes at your next brunch.
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$15
For traditional Côtes du Rhône, it’s hard to…
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For traditional Côtes du Rhône, it’s hard to beat Christelle Coulange’s “Cuvée Mistral” 2020.  The cuvée is well named, as the Coulange family vineyards are perched high on a hill overlooking the Rhône, literally on the northern border of that huge appellation. (In fact, on a clear day you can see Mont Blanc, some 200 miles away). The altitude helps keep the wine fresh, which can be a challenge in much of the Côtes du Rhône. The 2020 vintage is a good example – though the Grenache/Syrah blend (80%-20%) features fully ripe strawberry and plum fruit, it has enough acidity to keep it fresh. It drinks nicely on its own, with less extraction and more fruit than the Goubert’s version.
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$16
Paget’s 2020 Rosé is made from a local grape…
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Paget’s 2020 Rosé is made from a local grape called Grolleau. It’s simple, dry, fresh, and a serious bargain. The nose shows strawberries with a hint of earthiness and mint. The mouth is very dry and light, with red currant fruit, excellent freshness and pleasant echo of tannin. Nicolas has managed to keep both alcohol and bottle price impressively low. Don’t overthink this cuvée and it wont let you down.
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$18
Jean-Marc Monnet is a very small producer making…
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Jean-Marc Monnet is a very small producer making traditionally styled Beaujolais, juicy and exuberant. No oak, no cellaring required -- just pure, fruit-forward, old school Beaujolais. Monnet's Chiroubles is lightweight and crackling, but in a warm year like 2020 packs a lovely floral ripeness and plenty of body. Take it along to a tailgate for a Fall football game, or serve it with your Thanksgiving turkey. It’s bright and intense, with notes of cranberry, peony, and graphite.
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$18
The blend is the same as in the…
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The blend is the same as in the past – Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre – but Florence has changed the vinification method from “saignée,” where the free-run juice from the just-harvested grapes is collected, to “direct pressing,” where the grapes are pressed before they have time to macerate on the skins and turn into red wine. This method gives the wine more tension and texture, and Florence explained she made the switch in search of a refreshing, lightweight wine. The rosé this year is a crisp 12.5% alcohol, with notes of “grenadine, minerals, and tension." We think this will be the perfect match for summer heat.
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$18
Our perennial favorite from Chauvin’s Domaine le Souverain…
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Our perennial favorite from Chauvin’s Domaine le Souverain is his Séguret — 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 5% Mourvèdre. Raised in stainless steel, this wine is pure, delicious fruit: look for plums, lavender, minerals and dark berries. There’s excellent freshness and attractive tannins, making it an option for both cocktail hour and dinner. There’s lots of Rhône wine out there for under $20, but almost none of it is this good.
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$19
Weingut Franz Dahm is in Bernkastel, an ancient…
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Weingut Franz Dahm is in Bernkastel, an ancient town perched on the steep banks of the Mosel River. Dahm’s vines are located next to the famous Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard, considered among the best in Germany. The nose is bright and stony with notes of lime rind, slate, dried melon, and saffron. The mouth is exquisitely dry, with a Muscadet-like core and pleasant notes of smoke and faintly browned apple. At 9.5% alcohol, it’s the lightest wine in our cellar. Pair it with sushi or other raw seafood like oysters or scallops.
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$19
Halbtrocken means half-dry, but we might call this…
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Halbtrocken means half-dry, but we might call this “dreivierteltrocken” (three-quarter dry) — a small splash of residual sugar makes it start soft and finish dry. This nose is beautiful and delicate, showing bright apple and lime zest. The mouth begins soft and round, but finishes with a burst of beautiful mineral texture. To borrow a phrase from wine writer Eric Asimov, this is “thrillingly tense.” We think it makes beautiful aperitif.
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$19
Winemaker Piero Lanza has tinkered with his Rosato…
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Winemaker Piero Lanza has tinkered with his Rosato over the years, and we think he has it just right. Like his other cuvées, it’s 100% Sangiovese. It’s dry on the palate, with a lively freshness; and its floral nose resolves into delightful strawberry fruit in the mouth. When the weather begins to warm in the spring and early summer, it will be hard to beat this light, refreshing glass for a moment of relaxation at the end of the day. More from Poggerino
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$19
This is the wine that brought us to…
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This is the wine that brought us to this address, and it continues to be our favorite. It’s unoaked and unadorned — just pure, perfect Chenin blanc in a clean refreshing package. The 2019 is as good as ever, sporting an almost Chablisien array of grapeskin and minerals. The nose is floral and dry, with faint pear notes and a hint of apple. Even in a warm year Paget has managed to craft a beautiful Melodie — at 13% alcohol it’s a perfect summer sipper, and a refreshing break from the palate-coating wines that dominate the market these days. Serve with fresh goat cheese on crusty bread and rejoice in simplicity.
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$19
Jean-Marc Monnet is a very small producer making…
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Jean-Marc Monnet is a very small producer making traditionally styled Beaujolais, juicy and exuberant. No oak, no cellaring required -- just pure, fruit-forward, old school Beaujolais. The fruit in Monnet's Juliénas is darker and its intensity greater than the Chiroubles. Fine-grained tannins provide support and the wine persists on the palate nicely. This is a fuller, more serious Beaujolais with excellent balance. Monnet’s style gives both ripe fruit and approachable tannin.
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$19
The twin villages of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are…
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The twin villages of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are the home towns of Sauvignon blanc. Here the grape takes on a distinctly mineral and citrus character. As the name suggests, the wines of Pouilly-Fumé also feature notes of smoke and gunflint, a result of the soils’ high flint content. Our producer here is Frederic Michot, a small family vigneron with no other US importer and excellent wines. The 2020 Pouilly-Fumé regular cuvée is round and generous, with plenty of grapefruit and a surprising amount of gras (fat). It’s floral but without a hint of grassiness — plump, refreshing, and tasty.
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$19
Eric Chauvin’s tiny Domaine le Souverain has no…
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Eric Chauvin’s tiny Domaine le Souverain has no website, no road sign, and barely a phone number -- his cellar is a converted garage. But his wines have more complexity and depth than nearly anything else we taste at their level, and manage to remain a bargain. Chauvin’s 2020 Séguret is vibrant and lovely. The nose is dark and inky with notes of tobacco, crushed berries, lavender, and a cool earthiness. The mouth is rich and ripe but beautifully balanced, with vibrant tannic texture, clean dark fruit, and a faint smokiness in the nose.
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$19
Salomon-Undhof’s Grüner “Wieden” is an unusually refined wine…
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Salomon-Undhof’s Grüner “Wieden” is an unusually refined wine for its price and level. The nose shows juniper, herbs and lime. The mouth is dry and mid-weight, with notes of cucumber, lime zest, and grape skins. At 12.5% alcohol and with excellent freshness, this is a Swiss army knife when it comes to matching food. Robert Parker’s reviewer gave 90 points, finding “a very fine and subtly flinty bouquet of perfectly ripe seed fruits. Medium-bodied, round and fresh, with salty-piquant acidity, this is a medium-bodied and juicy Veltliner with good balance and length.”
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$19
Poggerino is a top-notch producer from Chianti in…
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Poggerino is a top-notch producer from Chianti in Italy. Nearly all of our winemakers are French, but we carve out a small exception for Piero and Benedetta Lanza in Radda. Rajat Parr calls their pure Sangiovese wines “some of the purest expressions of [Sangiovese] in Italy.” Wine Spectator calls their wines “impeccably balanced.” Poggerino’s Rosato is 100% sangiovese — it’s dry on the palate with lively freshness and excellent balance. There’s a floral nose of roses and strawberries, with a dry crisp mouthfeel.
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$19
Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles…
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Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles Frey is a terrific biodynamic source in Dambach-la-Ville in the heart of the Alsace. Their pure, clean wines burst with character and life, and everything from them comes heartily recommended. The 2020 Pinot Blanc (formerly Pinot Auxerrois) is delicious. The wine features the characteristic orchard fruit nose — along the lines of white peaches — with a touch of briskness in this vintage.  That’s a welcome return to the norm after some warmer vintages delivered softer wine with less staying power.
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$19
The Domaine des Sanzay’s Saumur Rosé has been a…
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The Domaine des Sanzay’s Saumur Rosé has been a hit in recent years, and we’re thrilled to have it back this year. The 2021 is back down to 13% alcohol after a few warm vintages, and a bit lighter and more refreshing than last year’s. This rosé always has gorgeous aromatics – red berries, flowers, lemon peel – and a nice roundness on the palate to accompany the chalky freshness. It’s often a bit smoother and more savory than the Rosé de Flo, and makes an excellent match for sushi, a goat cheese salad, or just a muggy summer afternoon.
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$19
Martin-Luneau’s crus are attractively priced, but their “Deux Roches”…
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Martin-Luneau’s crus are attractively priced, but their “Deux Roches” 2018 cuvée is even more so.  “Deux Roches” is a reference to the two types of rock on which the grapes are grown: Gabbro and Granite. The vines are all from Clisson and Gorges, and so the wine would be eligible for “Cru” status by virtue of location; but the family has elected to make a refreshing blend for this cuvée, which is priced like a simpler wine.
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$19
Monnet’s wines are a perfect reflection of the…
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Monnet’s wines are a perfect reflection of the vigneron himself – honest, friendly and unassuming. In a world where even everyday wines have begun to creep up in price, Monnet’s wines are the same bargain they’ve always been. The 2021 vintage, aside from disastrous frosts and hail storms, marked a return (however briefly) to a cooler style of winemaking. Yields were low and berries quite small, so the wines remain concentrated – but the freshness missing from the last few vintages returned, and the wines are beautifully balanced. “A return to gamay classique,” Monnet told us. The nose is deep and intense, with perfume of roses, violets, and stones. The mouth is inky and rich as always with the old-vine cuvée, but the lift and energy of the vintage carry the wine expertly. The finish is crisp and focused.
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$19
Sancerre is the most famous place for this…
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Sancerre is the most famous place for this wine, and there the fruit dominates. Just up the river a few kilometers, the village of Pouilly Fumé produces very similar wine at a better price. The Pouilly-Fumé regular cuvée is generous in 2021, with the fruit spreading across the palate, but also showing plenty of energy. We love to serve Michot’s sauvignon with the goat cheeses from the region, whether a log of fresh cheese paired with yellow peppers and garlic sauteed in oil and balsamic vinegars, or chalky, aged Crottin de Chavignol an aged and robust cousin. Sauvignon is a versatile wine, equally at home as an aperitif or at the table.
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$19
Nicolas Paget is a passionate young winemaker who…
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Nicolas Paget is a passionate young winemaker who wears his heart on his sleeve. He pours every ounce of his attention and energy into his humble, delicious cuvées from the central Loire. He makes a wide range of wines – white, rosé, sparkling, red, dry, off-dry, sweet – but each has its own identity and character. It’s perfectly dry Chenin blanc at its best, and the 2020 is its usual clean, delightful self. The nose shows pear and flint, with an easy, approachable profile. The mouth is crisp and very refreshing with apple and citrus fruit, and white flowers. At 13% alcohol it’s summer weight, and perfect for warm weather – think a Petit Chablis from an orchard-fruit grape.
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$19
Winemaker Eric Chauvin has crafted a humble, refreshing…
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Winemaker Eric Chauvin has crafted a humble, refreshing, delicious Rhône red – a screaming bargain that’s hard to put down. Made from 50/50 Grenache/Syrah raised only in stainless steel (no oak), this wine carries a beautiful energy throughout its dark, mouthfilling palate.  The nose is deep and perfumed, showing violet, cassis, and a hint of local garrigue. The mouth is dark and lush but with great freshness and a concentrated, middleweight mouthfeel. It’s the perfect wine for a weeknight burger or takeout pizza – upgrade your go-to Côtes du Rhône with a beautifully balanced everyday red.
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$19
The 2020 Sablet from Goubert might be the…
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The 2020 Sablet from Goubert might be the best Côtes du Rhône we’ve had in many years. It’s a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, all fermented together in the same tank. It’s raised in large concrete vats rather than oak barrels, and the resulting wine is fresh and untouched by notes of vanilla or toast. Goubert’s Sablet 2020 is dark, juicy and refreshing: the nose is a blend of wild cherries, lavender, violets, and cloves. In the mouth the fruits are red, perfectly ripe, with beautiful freshness and a clean, spiced finish. The weight is just right: rich, rounded tannins, mouth-coating fruit, solid supporting acidity, and a smooth finish.
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$19
France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east…
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France’s Jura region sits only 50 miles east of Burgundy, but in winemaking terms it’s a world away. The Jura is best known for its light reds and idiosyncratic whites. Our tiny producer here is the Domaine Hervé Ligier. Ligier’s red is made from the “Trousseau” grape – it’s darker in color than rosé, but not by much. The nose is very expressive and floral, with red cherries and a pleasant earthiness – think Pinot that has let its hair down a bit. In the mouth there’s subtle tannin and pleasant notes of cranberries and wild cherries. If the Jura is Burgundy’s untamed, rugged cousin, then Trousseau perfectly represents its region: similarly delicate, but less sophisticated, a little wilder.
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For more than fifteen years we thought of…
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For more than fifteen years we thought of Poggerino as our secret, but the word is definitely out now. Vinous’s Antonio Galloni considers their wines “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy." Poggerino's pure sangiovese rosato has quickly become a favorite since it was introduced a few years ago. It's dry, crisp, and simply delicious, with a rose-petal nose and dried strawberries in the mouth. Serve it with a salty fish off the grill.
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$19
Domaine des Sanzay’s Cabernet Franc 2022 Rosé has quickly become…
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Domaine des Sanzay’s Cabernet Franc 2022 Rosé has quickly become a crowd favorite among our readers – the lightweight character, charming label, and affordable price all combine to make it the perfect quaffing rosé for the summer months. Céline Sanzay wrote to tell us that it’s back down to 13% alcohol after a few warm vintages, with the same lighter and refreshing character as last year’s. This rosé always has gorgeous aromatics – red berries, flowers, lemon peel – and a nice roundness on the palate to accompany the chalky freshness. It makes an excellent match for sushi, a goat cheese salad, or just a muggy August afternoon.
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$19
The fruit here recalls ripe pears with a…
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The fruit here recalls ripe pears with a touch of white peach, and it’s a very pleasant combination. But what makes the wine just right for sipping on the back porch or roof deck on a muggy July evening is its weight: light and refreshing rather than deep and unctuous. With an (almost unheard of) alcohol level of just 11.5% and a fresh, lively palate, it will be just the thing to sip at the end of a long hot summer’s day. And at the price it is wine to enjoy early and often all summer long.
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$19
Souverain’s 2022 Séguret pulsates with life and energy…
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Souverain’s 2022 Séguret pulsates with life and energy, a result of his low-intervention style and careful organic viticulture. The nose is dark and inky with notes of crushed berries, lavender, and a cool earthiness. The mouth is smooth, fresh and perfectly balanced – clean dark fruit, low tannin, and easy finish. Pour this on your back patio or roofdeck, paired with something from the grill and a cool hint of fall in the air.
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Grown near the mouth of the Loire River…
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Grown near the mouth of the Loire River, Muscadet is at once brisk and hearty -- the essence of the windswept Atlantic coast. Wine writer Lettie Teague calls it “one of the world’s best, if most obscure, bargains,” saying “a glass of $8 Muscadet will always be a better wine than an $8 glass of something else.” Martin-Luneau’s 2020 Deux Roches cuvée is bright and crisp, with lime rind and melon in the nose, and zippy, refreshing acidity in the mouth. There’s an intense dryness and liveliness that’s perfect for warming weather. Pair this with anything from the sea, most perfectly, oysters.
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$19
If a good Pouily-Fumé bursts from the glass…
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If a good Pouily-Fumé bursts from the glass with energy and life, winemaker Frederic Michot is a perfect embodiment of his wines. He talks and drives fast, and sports the same no-nonsense attitude found in a glass of his Pouilly-Fumé: pure Sauvignon blanc, no oak, clean and crisp. In 2022, the regular cuvée Pouilly-Fumé is round and generous, featuring classic Sauvignon fruit in a smooth, accessible wrapper. The ripe fruit dominates, but though the 2022 delivers roundness, there is plenty of freshness to support the wine.
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$19
We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now…
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We’ve been fans of Picamelot for years now, but we were pleased to see the Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert William Kelley visit last year. After tasting Kelley wrote that “Picamelot produces some of the best sparkling wines in Burgundy,” calling them “elegant,” “excellent,” and “superb.” This nose is clean and elegant, with notes of almond, pineapple, and cream. The mouth is very dry, quite lively, and crisply refreshing, with apple fruit and a long vinous finish. At $22 this continues to be a steal; pair this with a warm Friday afternoon.
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$22
Our source for Cru Muscadet is the Domaine…
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Our source for Cru Muscadet is the Domaine Martin Luneau, which owns fine terroir in two cru villages: Gorges and Clisson. Gorges lies on Granite soils, Clisson on Gabbro; and the different rock makes for different profiles not all that far apart. Both 2016 Cru wines in this offer have classic Muscadet fruit — pure, clean honeydew melon in the nose. Both wines integrate a beautiful salinity into the palate. In the mouth, the Gorges is a touch rounder and fatter, perhaps a bit softer. The Clisson shows a little more definition and linear precision — look for dry lemon peel and oyster shells. Gorges has a touch of yeastiness from the lees that Clisson does not.
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$22
At a few dollars less than the Bourgogne…
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At a few dollars less than the Bourgogne, the Aligoté is also very attractive in 2019. It has the grape’s characteristic freshness (which helps it marry nicely with Crême de Cassis in a kir), but there’s nothing harsh about the acidity. The fruit dominates this wine, and there’s more body than shows up in most Aligoté.
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$22
Malmont's 2020 Rosé is a blend of Grenache…
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Malmont's 2020 Rosé is a blend of Grenache and Syrah, and more serious than the Sanzay Rosé. It’s a blend of pressing (85%) and saigné (15%), which gives it a bit more spice in the nose and complexity in the mouth. Look for a floral bouquet with wild strawberries alongside lavender and berries. The mouth is dry but with lovely texture and a long, clean finish. Pair with a summer salad, perhaps with duck confit or pâté.
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$22
Tribouley's ability to wrestle freshness and lift from…
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Tribouley's ability to wrestle freshness and lift from such a warm climate is remarkable — his wines burst with fruit and tension, a mark of careful viticulture and low yields (12-15 hl/ha). He ferments with ambient yeasts, and neither fines nor filters. Copines 2019 is jubilant, fresh, easy, and delightful — a perfect spring/summer red. The blend is 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% carignan, aged all in tank (no oak). The nose bursts with strawberry-watermelon fruit and dried violets, with a mouth full of fresh fruit and earth. This light on its feet and full of exuberance — just what natural wine should be.
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$22
Our source for Cru Muscadet is the Domaine…
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Our source for Cru Muscadet is the Domaine Martin Luneau, which owns fine terroir in two cru villages: Gorges and Clisson. Gorges lies on Granite soils, Clisson on Gabbro; and the different rock makes for different profiles not all that far apart. Both 2016 Cru wines in this offer have classic Muscadet fruit — pure, clean honeydew melon in the nose. Both wines integrate a beautiful salinity into the palate. In the mouth, the Gorges is a touch rounder and fatter, perhaps a bit softer. The Clisson shows a little more definition and linear precision — look for dry lemon peel and oyster shells. Gorges has a touch of yeastiness from the lees that Clisson does not.
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$22
The twin villages of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are…
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The twin villages of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are the home towns of Sauvignon blanc. Here the grape takes on a distinctly mineral and citrus character. As the name suggests, the wines of Pouilly-Fumé also feature notes of smoke and gunflint, a result of the soils’ high flint content. Our producer here is Frederic Michot, a small family vigneron with no other US importer and excellent wines. The 2020 old-vine “Cuvée Sainte Clara” has the same grapefruit, but it’s drier and more focused; and its clay/limestone soils add an additional level of complexity. Look for more concentration and more sophisticated fruit.
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$22
Perched on a steep hillside east of the…
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Perched on a steep hillside east of the town, Malmont’s vines benefit from high (cooler) elevation and plentiful airflow, enabling the grapes to reach maturity without becoming baked or dried out. Petit Rouge 2019 is 70/30 syrah/grenache, aged 100% in tank (no oak). The resulting wine is simply delightful, dark and complex with classic syrah notes of violets and blackberry — by nose you might mistake it for a Northern Rhône pure syrah. In the mouth the grenache shines through a bit more, with beautiful depth a splash of red fruit and cinnamon. At 13.5% alcohol it retains a gorgeous freshness alongside the dark, meaty fruit.
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$22
Regional level Northern Rhône Syrahs can be a…
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Regional level Northern Rhône Syrahs can be a bit thin and harsh, but this is nothing of the sort. It’s rich and round, showing none of the rusticity you might expect from a sub-$25 wine. There’s certainly less complexity than De Boisseyt’s other cuvées from Côte Rôtie and Saint-Joseph, but we think it far overperforms its pricetag. The nose explodes with violets, blueberries, lavender and black pepper. The mouth is smooth and round with softened tannins and a lovely clean finish. With no oak to muddle the palate, this is pure, perfumy Northern Rhône Syrah. 
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Denis’s wine gets better every year, and his…
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Denis’s wine gets better every year, and his just-arrived 2019 is a knockout. The name “Etincelle” (sparks) refers to his near-electrocution a decade ago, an accident that caused him to quit his job and pursue his dream of winemaking. Basset’s 2019 Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” is at once dark and soaring. From a hot year, there’s very dense and intense fruit laid over a sinewy structure of blackberry jam and spice. But the mouthfeel is also balanced, vibrant, and delicious. A weeknight red with far more pluck than $22 usually gets you.
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Goubert’s Beaumes de Venise is a blend of…
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Goubert’s Beaumes de Venise is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, with the final grape adding a sauvage quality that makes the wine distinct and delicious. All three grapes fermented together and raised in concrete tank; the wine is full of spice and garrigue, but all drawn from grapes and earth instead of oak.  The nose is dark and weathered, showing strawberry jam, honey, and earthy notes;. the mouth is lively and juicy, with pleasant structure. This is an astonishingly complete wine at $22. It’s perhaps a bit less refined than its older brother Gigondas, but what it lacks in elegance it makes up in pluck. 
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Jean-Louis Tribouley practices organic farming, biodynamics, and low…
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Jean-Louis Tribouley practices organic farming, biodynamics, and low intervention.  His property is high in the hills of the Roussillon, a remote winemaking area near France’s border with Spain. The vines grow on schist and gneiss/granite, and range from 40 to 70 years old. “Copines” 2020 is like its 2019 predecessor: a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Carignan. The Grenache dominates here — if you have ever had strawberry jam made from wild strawberries, you will recognize the aromatics. Though the wine is technically dry, the fruit is almost sweet. Serve it cool in the summer and at cellar temperature in other seasons, and you will be surprised how quickly your stock dwindles.
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The Foulaquier recipe (minimal vineyard intervention, wild yeasts…
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The Foulaquier recipe (minimal vineyard intervention, wild yeasts, no fining or filtering, low/no sulfites) produces wines that might best be described as carefully channeled wildness – they’re not as funky or offbeat as much of the world’s natural wine but they still contain an earthy, untamed quality, and natural spirit. “Les Indiennes” 2018 is pure grenache, raised in concrete vats and bottled with minimal sulfites. It’s easy and light, with roses and earthy violets in the nose, alongside hints of spice, licorice, and soy sauce. The mouth is low tannin and fresh, with cherries and stones – a perfect weeknight patio wine for a warm evening. 
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Vincent Gross is a young, enthusiastic winemaker practicing…
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Vincent Gross is a young, enthusiastic winemaker practicing biodynamic viticulture, and producing truly exciting wines. His 2020 is delicious, and the perfect antidote to a hot, muggy summer afternoon. The nose is an exotic mix of orchard fruits and wild herbal honey. The mouth is dry, quite full, and bursting with biodynamic complexity – look for honeydew melon, lime, lemon zest, apple and pear. Serve this on its own — it’s a crisp, lively aperitif to match crackers or early evening snacks. For dinner, pair with a dish full of spices — think middle eastern or Indian. Or, if it’s been a long day — takeout sushi.
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Whatever the cause, we can confirm that nearly…
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Whatever the cause, we can confirm that nearly every 2020 white Burgundy we’ve tasted has been thrillingly good. And the 2020 white lineup from Domaine Ravaut is no exception. Ravaut’s style of low oak, fine minerality, and focused freshness now plays host to abundant ripeness, and the resulting wines are exciting and delightful. The 2020 Aligoté shows precise minerality and focused green apple notes in the nose. It sees no oak, and channels its concentrated fruit into a straightforward, refreshing package. Corton-Charlemagne this is not, but at $22 a bottle it’s a terrific value.
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Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles…
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Formerly known as the Domaine Mersiol, Domaine Charles Frey is a terrific biodynamic source in Dambach-la-Ville in the heart of the Alsace. Their pure, clean wines burst with character and life, and everything from them comes heartily recommended. Frey’s Riesling “Granite” 2020 is quite dry, and showing its fruit without the petrol that often appears in the nose of a Riesling.  It is bright and brisk in the mouth, with a definite touch of salinity and a perfect balance between fruit and minerals. The wine softens after a few minutes in the glass but remains focused and energetic.
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