“An Exercise in Harmony:” Silky 2017 Premier Cru Red Burgundy

The 2017 vintage in red Burgundy continues to impress. No one considers it a “great vintage” (stay tuned for 2019), but its accessibility and seductive texture makes it delightful early. The tannins are appealingly soft and the acidities relatively low — it’s an approachable, early-drinking vintage that’s providing much enjoyment already. Or as Burghound puts it: “user-friendly.”

Delicious New 2018 Red Burgundy from Michel Gros. $36

The Domaine Michel Gros is best known for its magnificent red Burgundies from famous towns in the Côte de Nuits. But for decades the domaine has also farmed a wide swath of vines in the hills to the west of “la Côte.” The neighborhood isn’t quite as posh and the terroir not quite as perfect, but the “Hautes-Côtes,” as they’re called, have long provided excellent value.