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Just north of the famous Grand Cru vineyard Clos Vougeot a narrow valley channels…
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Just north of the famous Grand Cru vineyard Clos Vougeot a narrow valley channels groundwater into a bubbling spring at the base of the slope. This boiling meadow, or champ bouillant in French, gave Chambolle its name. The Boursots have been making wine there for the past 475 years.Boursot’s 2023 Chambolle Musigny came in at 13.1% and saw 25% new oak. It is a bigger wine than usual for village Chambolle, with a lot of density on the palate and enough structure to age well. There is an expressive nose of ripe fruit with floral notes alongside. We’d suggest perhaps a year in the cellar followed by many years of sampling as it evolves.
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Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of…
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Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of the international wine press. He’s an insiders’ producer with a mouthwatering collection of terroirs; together with his sister Sylvie who handles much of the viticulture, they continue to turn out magnificent expressions of their unparalleled terroir. Boyer’s 2023s are simply delicious – juicy and fleshy and approachable, but with excellent tension and low alcohol.In Puligny, Vincent and Sylvie farm a small village level plot just north of town in Reuchaux. It’s a tricky plot in an unusual spot, but the wine it produces is exceptional. The 2023 is the best we can remember. The nose is exquisite, a mixture of stones, pear, flowers and flax. The mouth is classic Puligny – chiseled and fine – but with unusually attractive weight this year.
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy, a new arrival with…
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy, a new arrival with little winemaking experience and no family history. He started just 10 years ago as a micro-negociant, purchasing grapes and making tiny batches from small plots. In the last decade he has acquired 10 hectares of vines around the Côte d’Or, farming organically and crafting beautiful, understated modern Burgundy. Vinous’s Neal Martin describes Baillot’s wines as “excellent,” “impressive,” and “lovely and energetic.”Baillot’s Pommard 1er cru “Charmots” is darker and fuller bodied than the Volnays, but without losing Baillot’s signature elegance and refinement, helped along by 80% whole clusters. The nose is deeply perfumed with spices, redcurrants, and tea. The mouth is dark and bold but with tremendous freshness. Neal Martin awarded 92 points, writing “This is an excellent Pommard that should give a decade of drinking pleasure.”
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We have been buying Côte Rotie made by Christophe Bonnefond for some twenty years…
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We have been buying Côte Rotie made by Christophe Bonnefond for some twenty years now, and have watched his style evolve. His wines have always had plenty of stuffing, but over the years he has dialed back the oak and extraction, and his wines now show a particularly elegant, deft touch. This year the Domaine released a wine made By Christophe’s daughter Lea, a blend of grapes from Roziers and Rochins called “Dans les Vignes de Mon Père.” Apparently the apple falls not far from the tree. Made with 100% whole clusters, this wine is ultra-dense, almost unctuous in the mouth but supported by lots of structure. Josh Raynolds awarded 93-95, finding it “juicy, appealingly sweet and concentrated yet lively on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, cherry liqueur and spice cake flavors and a hint of candied flowers on the back half.”
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up…
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Bonnefond's 2020s are magnificent. Josh Raynolds of Vinous writes “the 2020s are shaping up to be as impressive, especially in terms of elegance, as any bottlings I have experienced here.” Having bought here for nearly 20 years, we agree — the wines have never been better.Vinous 97. "Deep violet color. Bright and energetic on the intensely perfumed nose, displaying vibrant red and blue fruit, bacon fat and floral scents that take on olive and exotic spice notes as the wine opens up. In a distinctly vibrant style, offering appealingly sweet, mineral-tinged cherry, black raspberry, mocha, salty olive, clove and allspice flavors, plus suggestions of licorice and cola. Finishes extremely long and smooth, with just a hint of fine-grained, polished tannins and resonating floral and spice notes."
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The Grand Cru of Corton is massive. Stretching across a prominent hill just north…
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The Grand Cru of Corton is massive. Stretching across a prominent hill just north of Beaune, the vineyard covers 236 acres, just 40 less than the entire appellation of Morey-St-Denis. The terroirs vary widely across the giant vineyard, and so it’s further divided into dozens of smaller “climats.” The finest of these are the three farthest north in the middle of the slope: Bressandes, Clos du Roi, and Renardes.The humble family domaine of Gaston and Pierre Ravaut has made wine from the hill of Corton for generations. Longtime local customers account for the majority of their business, and there’s barely a sign on the front door. The Ravauts make excellent whites and reds from the towns surrounding the hill, but the jewel of their collection is their plot of Grand Cru Corton-Bressandes.
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