Final Pickup Hours: Tuesday 11/23, 5-6:30pm
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Florence Cartier’s flagship wine is of course from Gigondas, home to her family domaine…
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Florence Cartier’s flagship wine is of course from Gigondas, home to her family domaine and most of their vines. Her 2021 Gigondas is a story of both vintage and varietal – as in the north, the growing season was cooler and wetter than is typical, and there’s more lift and delicacy than usual in this cuvée. The rainy spring also meant a poor flowering for grenache and syrah, and so Mouvrèdre plays an unusually central role in this year’s blend, adding charming, rugged savory notes of garrigue and leather to the lush fruit. With less extraction it’s also more pleasant young, and we expect this to be delightful from the start. Look for notes of cassis, blackberry and dried roses, and enjoy the delicacy of a low-alcohol (13.5%) southern Rhône red.
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The Boursot estate has been handed down over 500 years in the tiny town…
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The Boursot estate has been handed down over 500 years in the tiny town of Chambolle-Musigny. The current winemakers, brothers Romaric and Romuald, have transformed the humble property into an exciting source for well-priced Burgundies. Bill Nanson (Burgundy Report) calls them “delicious, consistently excellent;” Steen Öhman (Winehog) finds them “forward, quite vivid…truly exciting.”   We’ve never offered Boursot’s white before, but this year’s was too good to pass up. From vines in Chambolle near the RN-74, this is beautiful everyday white Burgundy. The oak treatment is extremely light and well integrated, and the wine is mostly a fruit-and-stone play. The nose shows clean lemon fruit with a hint of floral perfume and dry grape skin. The mouth is pretty, fresh, middleweight and pretty. A perfect aperitif white Burgundy.
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Ravaut's wines used to require extended maceration to draw color and flavor from grapes…
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Ravaut's wines used to require extended maceration to draw color and flavor from grapes, but now the crop arrives at harvest with enough concentration to ferment more gently. The resulting wines are smoother, beautifully balanced, and simply delicious young. William Kelly of the Wine Advocate calls them “hearty, characterful wines,” with “plenty to admire.” The Ravaut humble Bourgogne Côte d’Or Rouge is gorgeous this year, a useful entry-level wine that provides excellent value. The nose is dark and sappy with notes of plum and wild cherries. The mouth is inky and smooth, and the tannins are perfectly integrated. This will require no patience, and you won’t be able to keep your hands off it anyway. A perfect, easygoing weeknight red Burgundy.
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Dany and Carol Chastan make delicious wines in Gigondas, a near neighbor and vinous…
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Dany and Carol Chastan make delicious wines in Gigondas, a near neighbor and vinous cousin of Chateauneuf du Pape.  Their winemaking has always been organic, with biodynamic elements, and their effort is always to faithfully render the wine that the vintage has produced. Beard Award winning author Jon Bonné singled them out for praise in his recent book “The New French Wine,” naming them a benchmark producer of the region and “essential defenders of grenache’s good name.” The 2023 shows characteristic wild strawberries dominate the aromatic profile, and the palate is round and well balanced, with a bit of salinity joining the delightful ripe fruit. There is very good length in the mouth.
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Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious Chenin Blanc from his organically farmed…
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Nicolas Paget continues to produce excellent, dry, delicious Chenin Blanc from his organically farmed vineyard in the central Loire Valley. We visited this spring, and were reminded of just how lush this region is, deserving of its moniker “Le Jardin de France.” Paget’s wines are similarly lush – round and rich with excellent acidity and beautiful depth. Nicolas’s Chinon Blanc “Passeur du Terroir” from 2022. The warm vintage provided ample ripeness, and this wine is round, luxurious and opulent. Paget raised it in large 500L barrels, and there’s a faint note of spice alongside the yellow pear fruit. A pleasant savory grape-skin minerality joins the lush fruit to give mouthwatering texture almost reminiscent of Chablis. Fans of rich white Burgundy – think Meursault or Pouilly-Fuissé – will enjoy the depth and friendly texture here. Pair this with autumn foods – a lobster bisque, a bouillabaisse, a plate of raclette.
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The 2022 red Burgundies are deep and concentrated, a product of the hottest and…
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The 2022 red Burgundies are deep and concentrated, a product of the hottest and driest year on record. And yet they are astonishingly well balanced and sport fine detail and low alcohol. It’s a look (perhaps) at the Burgundy of the future: ripe, lush fruit and dark color, but with delicate balance and lovely tension. Gautier’s village-level 2022 Givry “Champ la Dame” is a punchy, characterful, flat out delicious red Burgundy. It bursts with dark Pinot fruit, friendly tannins, and a sturdy core. This wouldn’t be out of place in the Côte d’Or, and with a humble appellation like Givry on the label, it provides tremendous value.
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father…
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past.  Gros’s Bourgogne Côte d’Or comes from vines just outside his hometown. It’s middleweight and pretty, with red currants and violets in the nose; the mouth has mild tannins and a pleasant earthy and floral finish. This year Burghound found “good vibrancy and detail,” and Neal Martin called it “quite fleshy and dense.” It drinks effortlessly from the start, and however much we set aside for ourselves, we always wish it were more.
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