Red Burgundy Verticals

Drinking multiple vintages of the same wine is an excellent way to get to know a wine. In Burgundy, vintages play an important role in the character of a wine, and tasting the same wine in vertical be an educational (and delicious) experience.

Of course there are two vintage variables with every bottle: the time elapsed from the harvest year, and the patterns of that particular vintage itself. In other words, it’s impossible simultaneously to drink two wines at the same age from different vintages. But in our eyes that only adds another variable of intrigue.

So we’ve collected some red Burgundy vertical trios — the same wine in 3 vintages. Quantities are limited.

 

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The 2015 vintage deserves all the acclaim and…
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The 2015 vintage deserves all the acclaim and press coverage it receives. But insiders (and in particular Burgundian winemakers) consider 2016 nearly as good, and in some instances, superior. We’ve been floored by the precision and polish of the 2016s, and the 2016 Ruchots is among our favorites in the vintage. From an acre of vines, the Amiot family makes just 200 cases of this wine per year. Their vines, planted in the 1950s, produce concentrated, intense red Burgundy. Allen Meadows (Burghound) awarded the 2016 92 points, finding it “outstanding,” “exceptionally rich” and “seductively textured,” predicting “this should be approachable after only a few years of bottle age yet reward up a decade plus of cellaring.”
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This wine is proof that ageworthy wine doesn’t…
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This wine is proof that ageworthy wine doesn’t have to cost hundreds of dollars. Located about ten yards from the famous Grand Cru Clos de la Roche, Millandes is a premier cru that always punches above its weight, but that also needs a few years to reach its potential. Patience may be a virtue, but in this case someone else has done the work for you. This lot of 2011 Millandes comes with impeccable provenance, having spent the last eight years resting peacefully in the cellar where it was bottled. Burghound awarded 90 points, finding it “delicious, balanced and solidly persistent,” and suggesting it would be perfectly mature beginning in 2019.
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The Domaine Pierre Amiot is an old school…
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The Domaine Pierre Amiot is an old school Burgundy estate based in Morey-St-Denis. They’ve just welcomed the 6th generation into the business, and year after year turn out humbly delicious red Burgundies. Their 2019s are terrific, with gorgeous textures and excellent aging potential. Combottes is a premier cru surrounded on all sides by famous Grand Crus, and in good years could easily be mistaken for one.  2019 is just such a year. There is an expressive nose of dark fruit with a certain sweetness about it.  In the mouth the wine is both dense and intense.  If the weight is less than a Grand Cru, it is not by much.  Burghound awarded 91-94, calling it "one of the better recent vintages I have seen for this wine.'
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The Domaine Pierre Amiot is an old school…
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The Domaine Pierre Amiot is an old school Burgundy estate based in Morey-St-Denis. They’ve just welcomed the 6th generation into the business, and year after year turn out humbly delicious red Burgundies. Their 2019s are terrific, with gorgeous textures and excellent aging potential. A magnificent wine that will both require and reward cellaring. We loved this wine in 2018, and weren’t surprised to see it win a prestigious Coup de Coeur from the Guide Hachette, who wrote of its “refined tannins,” “perfectly mastered woodsiness,” and notes of “rose, cassis, and tobacco.” If you have room in the back of your cellar, consider putting away some of this.
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot…
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot has become the Domaine Amiot et Fils. Jean-Louis’s brother Didier has gone off on his own, and son Léon has joined Jean-Louis and Chantal in the business.  The 2020 vintage was the third year in a row of unusually hot weather, resulting in a harvest that began in August for the first time in Jean-Louis’s long career. The heat came with an extended dry spell, which contributed to concentration and low yields, but also balanced acidity. The village Gevrey seems to get better every year, and we found the 2020 particularly attractive, with a fine nose of dark fruit, plenty of depth and intensity, and silky-smooth tannins.  Look for violets, cassis, and a delicious briary finish – proof of just how good the winemaking is here these days.
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot…
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot has become the Domaine Amiot et Fils. Jean-Louis’s brother Didier has gone off on his own, and son Léon has joined Jean-Louis and Chantal in the business. Ruchots is a perfectly located vineyard considered the finest premier cru in the town. This vineyard sits between the Grand Cru Clos de Tart and the Roumiers’ monopole “Clos de la Bussiere,” and the wine it produces is what you’d expect – intense, masculine, bold, and beautiful. The 2020 shows a striking combination of finesse and power. Burghound gave 90-93 points, calling it “outstanding,” “sappy” and “velvet-textured” with “excellent volume.”
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot…
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With the 2020 vintage, the Domaine Pierre Amiot has become the Domaine Amiot et Fils. Jean-Louis’s brother Didier has gone off on his own, and son Léon has joined Jean-Louis and Chantal in the business.  The 2020 vintage was the third year in a row of unusually hot weather, resulting in a harvest that began in August for the first time in Jean-Louis’s long career. Combottes is a near-Grand Cru in more ways than one.  First, it is surrounded by Grand Cru vineyards: Clos de la Roche, Latricieres-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin. More importantly, it offers concentration and intensity that elevates it into the Grand Cru neighborhood.  Burghound praised its “floral-suffused aromas of various dark berries, earth, and hints of the sauvage.”
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. Their 2022 Chambolle-Musigny is very Chambolle, with a pretty rather than powerful profile, and just the right touch of oak in the nose. The mid-palate has lovely ripe cherry fruit and fine-grained tannins.
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. The Morey St. Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes” is well-named. It is usually the first of the three to drink well, and that is likely to be the case with this vintage. Already aromatically expressive, it garnered praise from Allen Meadows (Burghound) for its “layered mix of red and dark pinot fruit, anise and soft floral wisps” as well as its “delicious, rich and quite suave medium-bodied flavors.”  This ages beautifully, but it’s hard to keep your hands off it young.
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. The Morey St. Denis 1er cru “Les Millandes” is a bigger wine, with more structure and the need for a little more time to integrate its elements.  There’s a bit more oak (30% new barrels vs. 20% in Charmes) and a similar increase in whole clusters. As Burghound put it, “The sleek, delicious, and tension-filled larger-bodied and tautly muscular flavors display the hallmark power of a classic Millandes.” This is very refined, and very Morey-St-Denis.
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. Morey St. Denis premier cru “Les Ruchots” is the best premier cru in town, and just down the slope from the Grand Cru Clos de Tart, and just up from the Domaine Roumier’s monopole Clos de la Bussière. From what most consider the best premier cru terroir in the village, this wine combines intensity and elegance, with exceedingly fine-grained tannins that produce what Burghound calls “a caressing, even sappy, mouthfeel.”
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. It is a vineyard completely surrounded by Grand Crus, and it develops Grand Cru-like complexity and nuance as it ages. Burghound identified an “elegant and floral nose” with “aromas of red and black raspberry, violet and a similar hint of exotic tea.” He wrote this about the 2022, giving 90-93 points: “The innate elegance of a fine Combottes is immediately evident with the refined and lacy flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the dusty, linear, youthfully austere and beautifully detailed finale.”
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. The Grand Cru Clos de la Roche 2022 is built for a very long life. It has dense, dark cherry fruit mixed with a solid dose of oak. There is plenty of power here, and the length is exceptional. But patience will be required to enjoy it near its peak; Burghound (91-94pts) says “this is definitely a wine to buy and cellar as it’s not likely to be especially approachable young,” finding “power and muscle” with an “impressively long, austere, built-to-age and quite serious finale.”
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer…
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick smile and friendly demeanor, he’s traveled the world gaining extensive viticultural experience, and has brought real energy and renewed focus to his family’s tiny 5-hectare gem of an estate in Morey-St-Denis. He’s officially organic as of this year, but has already started the process of biodynamic certification. He has abandoned herbicides, planted cover crops, and this year begins an agroforestry project in the name of vineyard biodiversity. A blend of eight parcels across the town, this is truly an appellation-wide cuvée, showing the detail and elegance of classic Morey-St-Denis. The nose is very floral, with dried roses and violets; the mouth is clean and well built, with fine tannins all perfectly coated in attractive young fruit. Burghound was a fan as well, citing “various dark berries and earth” in the nose and “fine volume and richness along with an appealing sense of energy” in the mouth.
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer…
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick smile and friendly demeanor, he’s traveled the world gaining extensive viticultural experience, and has brought real energy and renewed focus to his family’s tiny 5-hectare gem of an estate in Morey-St-Denis. He’s officially organic as of this year, but has already started the process of biodynamic certification. He has abandoned herbicides, planted cover crops, and this year begins an agroforestry project in the name of vineyard biodiversity. This is the northernmost vineyard in Morey-St-Denis, and sits on the border with Charmes-Chambertin, a Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru. The charming silky quality for which “Charmes” is known is there in spades, with elegant notes of earth, cassis, and smoke. The classic, chiseled character of Morey-St-Denis is below the surface here too, and the combination is enticing. Burghound found it “succulent, round and seductively textured,” with a “velvety mid-palate.
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer…
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick smile and friendly demeanor, he’s traveled the world gaining extensive viticultural experience, and has brought real energy and renewed focus to his family’s tiny 5-hectare gem of an estate in Morey-St-Denis. He’s officially organic as of this year, but has already started the process of biodynamic certification. He has abandoned herbicides, planted cover crops, and this year begins an agroforestry project in the name of vineyard biodiversity. Ruchots was a real stunner this year, very ripe and expressive with loads of lush, inky fruit. It’s got the extraction and length to match. Léon’s vines here cover a wide swath of the terroir within the vineyard, and he credits the diversity of soils with the complexity of the wine. He’s able to blend elegant juice from up-slope stony sectors with rich juice from down-slope clay-rich soils; and the resulting wine has nearly unmatched complexity for its level.
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Ribaude makes a Rosé cider from pink-fleshed apples. It’s…
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Ribaude makes a Rosé cider from pink-fleshed apples. It’s not organic like the other cuvées but we found it terrific. It’s particularly well balanced — more tart than the Organic Dry, with both more fruit and more acid. The nose shows notes of ripe tart apples, spices, and orange peel. The mouth is crisp and refreshing, with less funk and a bit more fruit. It’s still not sweet, but not as bone-dry as the Organic Dry. Serve with appetizers at a late-summer dinner party, or with homemade crèpes at your next brunch.
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$15
Made just like cider but with pears instead…
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Made just like cider but with pears instead of apples, Poiré is less common but no less tasty. Ribaude’s is a blend of 20 varieties, and its alcohol barely breaks 3%. There’s a bit more softness in the perry, but we’d still call it only barely off-dry. The nose is exuberant and delightful, with notes of caramel, pear tart, and baking spice. The mouth is fruity but also crisp and vibrant with nice acidity and notes of honey, herbs and apples. Serve this one with a goat cheese salad for lunch on an autumn Sunday afternoon.
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For more than fifteen years we thought of…
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For more than fifteen years we thought of Poggerino as our secret, but the word is definitely out now. Vinous’s Antonio Galloni considers their wines “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy." Poggerino's pure Sangiovese rosato has quickly become a favorite since it was introduced a few years ago. It's dry, crisp, and simply delicious, with a rose-petal nose and dried strawberries in the mouth. Serve it with a salty fish off the grill.
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Our perennial favorite from Chauvin’s Domaine le Souverain…
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Our perennial favorite from Chauvin’s Domaine le Souverain is his Séguret — 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 5% Mourvèdre. Raised in stainless steel, this wine is pure, delicious fruit: look for plums, lavender, minerals and dark berries. There’s excellent freshness and attractive tannins, making it an option for both cocktail hour and dinner. There’s lots of Rhône wine out there for under $20, but almost none of it is this good.
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Martin-Luneau’s crus are attractively priced, but their “Deux Roches”…
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Martin-Luneau’s crus are attractively priced, but their “Deux Roches” 2018 cuvée is even more so.  “Deux Roches” is a reference to the two types of rock on which the grapes are grown: Gabbro and Granite. The vines are all from Clisson and Gorges, and so the wine would be eligible for “Cru” status by virtue of location; but the family has elected to make a refreshing blend for this cuvée, which is priced like a simpler wine.
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The fruit here recalls ripe pears with a…
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The fruit here recalls ripe pears with a touch of white peach, and it’s a very pleasant combination. But what makes the wine just right for sipping on the back porch or roof deck on a muggy July evening is its weight: light and refreshing rather than deep and unctuous. With an (almost unheard of) alcohol level of just 11.5% and a fresh, lively palate, it will be just the thing to sip at the end of a long hot summer’s day. And at the price it is wine to enjoy early and often all summer long.
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Grown near the mouth of the Loire River…
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Grown near the mouth of the Loire River, Muscadet is at once brisk and hearty -- the essence of the windswept Atlantic coast. Wine writer Lettie Teague calls it “one of the world’s best, if most obscure, bargains,” saying “a glass of $8 Muscadet will always be a better wine than an $8 glass of something else.” Martin-Luneau’s 2020 Deux Roches cuvée is bright and crisp, with lime rind and melon in the nose, and zippy, refreshing acidity in the mouth. There’s an intense dryness and liveliness that’s perfect for warming weather. Pair this with anything from the sea, most perfectly, oysters.
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Domaine des Sanzay’s Cabernet Franc Rosé has quickly become…
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Domaine des Sanzay’s Cabernet Franc Rosé has quickly become a crowd favorite among our readers – the lightweight character, charming label, and affordable price all combine to make it the perfect quaffing rosé for the summer months. This rosé always has gorgeous aromatics – red berries, flowers, lemon peel – and a nice roundness on the palate to accompany the chalky freshness. It makes an excellent match for sushi, a goat cheese salad, or just a muggy August afternoon.
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Pouilly-Fumé is the less famous neighbor of Sancerre…
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Pouilly-Fumé is the less famous neighbor of Sancerre, located just across the Loire River. The grapes here are Sauvignon blanc, and there’s a high percentage of flint in the soil, which gives the wines their eponymous “smoky” (Fumé) character. Our producer here is Frederic Michot, a brisk and energetic vigneron who makes wines that mirror his personality. They’re no-oak, no-nonsense, delicious and refreshing – and extremely well priced. The Pouilly-Fumé 2023 is lively and delicious. The nose shows grapefruit, a hint of herbs, and a burst of stoniness. The mouth is savory and punchy with a quick, clean mouthfeel and notes of grape skin and lemon zest. Serve with fish, oysters, cheese and crackers, or nothing at all.
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Frey’s Pinot Blanc “Eclectic” is one of our…
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Frey’s Pinot Blanc “Eclectic” is one of our favorite summer sippers. It’s expressive and floral in the nose, with ripe orchard fruit, white spices and occasional exotic notes. You’d almost expect it to be sweet from the bouquet, but the mouth is dry and vibrant, with a hint of grapeskin bitterness alongside the melon-apple fruit. There’s enough body to make it attractive all by itself, as an aperitif alongside a salty snack; but it’s also light enough to be an attractive partner to a dinner salad at the end of a muggy summer afternoon, whether on a roof deck, patio, or at an outdoor picnic.
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Winemaker Nicolas Haeni is a master of engineering…
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Winemaker Nicolas Haeni is a master of engineering balanced wines in his scorching hot climate, and his rosé is a perfect example. An 80/20 blend of Grenache and Syrah, it’s rounder and smoother than Sanzay’s or Poggerino’s but at 13% alcohol remains lively and fresh. Look for rose petals and wild strawberries in the nose, with a clean, refreshing minerality in the mouth. Given the extra texture this is a perfect rosé for summer meals – goat cheese salad, grilled chicken, or a cold summer soup.
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Michot’s Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes 2023 has just arrived…
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Michot’s Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes 2023 has just arrived and it’s refreshing, unoaked, mouthfilling and utterly delicious. His old vine cuvée combines a ripe, sunny vintage with bursting tension underneath the gorgeous fruit. There’s lots of inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc around -- most of it isn’t half this good. The nose shows mango, grapefruit rind, and straw; the mouth shows ripe grapefruit, lime rind, and honey. The wine is at once mouthfilling and electric, with the persistence of richness and freshness found in finest Sancerre, but with a serious discount.
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Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape…
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Eric Chauvin’s wines share a region and grape varietal with common Côtes du Rhônes, but little else. Chauvin’s tiny Domaine le Souverain has no website, no road sign, and barely a phone number -- his cellar is a converted garage. But his wines have more complexity and depth than nearly anything else we taste at their level, and manage to remain a bargain. The 2023 Séguret vintage is delicious, winning Gold at the local Concours d’Orange in 2024, and one of the best vintages of this wine we’ve had. The nose suggests ripe plums, and the mouth is rich and full, with just enough ripe tannin to notice. The finish is very smooth.  Souverain’s 2023 Seguret is one of those wines where the first glass calls for a second. If you’re looking for something to match the pizza you are making for tonight’s dinner, you can’t go wrong with this.
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Paget’s 2023 Melodie is quietly beautiful, with an…
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Paget’s 2023 Melodie is quietly beautiful, with an almost Chablisien array of grapeskin and minerals – clean, pure and delightful. The nose is floral and dry, with faint pear notes and a hint of apple. Even in a warm year Paget has managed to craft a refreshing cuvée — at a steely 12% alcohol it’s beautifully balanced, and a refreshing break from the palate-coating wines that dominate the market these days. Serve with fresh goat cheese on crusty bread and rejoice in simplicity.
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Didier and Celine Sanzay are fifth generation growers…
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Didier and Celine Sanzay are fifth generation growers in Saumur-Champigny producing fresh, pure Cabernet Franc in the modern Loire style -- small batch, organic, wild yeasts, no fining or filtering. Their 2023s in particular are “Loire classique” Didier told us last week – a return to the refreshing, low-alcohol. Their 2023 Saumur-Champigny is exactly what you want Loire Cab Franc to be: pure, joyful, unoaked, and fresh. Clean, juicy fruit bursts from the glass on the nose — think wild cherries and graphite. The mouth is fresh, fruit forward, inky, and intense, with a bold and vibrant attack and a quick clean finish. Picture a juicy Beaujolais with more serious texture and darker fruit.
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Alsace is a gorgeous winegrowing region – bucolic…
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Alsace is a gorgeous winegrowing region – bucolic hillsides of vines surround fairytale villages  on a sunny, east-facing ridge. Its wines can be similarly charming: expressive and delicate with beautiful fruit and vibrant textures. Our source here, the Domaine Charles Frey, is a family of committed biodynamic vingerons, producing wines of freshness and balance. Frey’s Riesling “Granite” 2023 is a bone-dry version of the wine. It is brisk and stony, with just hints of petrol over a core of lean yellow fruit. Pair it with anything that particularly matches unoaked wine, from sushi or sashimi to oysters on the half shell to fresh goat cheese. It’s lightweight, crisp, and full of life.
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Poggerino is often cited as a reference point…
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Poggerino is often cited as a reference point for Chianti Classico. Vinous writes of their Poggerino’s “remarkable purity and nuance,” and Rajat Parr calls their wines “excellent” and “some of the purest expressions of the grape in Italy.” A few years ago they introduced a rosato, and as you'd expect it's simply delicious. A pure sangiovese rosé with excellent definition. It offers lively freshness, attractive fruit and at 12.5% alcohol just the right weight.  The nose is drier than the Sanzay, with stony freshness and dried rose petal notes. Serve with a caprese salad or grilled vegetables dressed in good olive oil.
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Domaine des Sanzay is a 5th-generation family winery…
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Domaine des Sanzay is a 5th-generation family winery in the Central Loire Valley. They produce classic, organic, low intervention wines with exceptional pricing. Their rosé has become a favorite in our store, and is terrific year in and year out. Domaine Sanzay’s 2024 Saumur Rosé is pure Cabernet Franc from the central Loire Valley. This popular cuvée is as good as ever, with a fresh strawberry nose and crisp, dry mouthfeel. At 12.3% alcohol this is a perfect wine for hot summer afternoons, whether pool, patio or picnic. Serve with nothing at all, or with goat cheese on crackers.
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Lafont Menaut is the project of Philibert Perrin…
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Lafont Menaut is the project of Philibert Perrin, whose family also owns neighboring Chateau Carbonnieux (one of three visited by Thomas Jefferson in 1786). He employs the same care and expertise at both properties. The Cabernet adds dark, briary notes of blackberry and currant, with the Merlot adding notes of plum jam. Lafont Menaut is a classic, dark-palate Bordeaux, showing figs and currants alongside notes of cedar smoke and earth. It benefits greatly from 30 minutes or so in a glass or decanter. The texture is long, dark, and rich, with ripe, juicy tannins that are present but pleasant.
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Syrah grown in most of the world is…
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Syrah grown in most of the world is bold, rich, smooth and voluminous. In the Northern Rhône the grape takes on a different style: lower alcohol, less mouthfilling, more spice, more energy. Recent scorching summers have blurred this style a bit, but 2020 was a welcome return to normal. Decanter writes of “A reliably fresh, balanced and approachable vintage – a return to classicism.” Christophe was right about his 2020 Syrah – it’s lighter weight than recent years, but arguably even finer. The nose is spice forward, with black pepper, nutmeg and rosemary – the black fruit is there but taking a back seat to the savory elements. The mouth is gorgeous and refined, with refreshing tension and lovely intensity – it’s perfectly extracted, leaving not an ounce of harshness.
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This is 90% grenache and 10% syrah, and…
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This is 90% grenache and 10% syrah, and as with all of Nicolas Hanei’s wines, impeccably balanced. Rosé from the Rhône Valley is always among  our favorites, where savory notes of the rugged southern grapes blend beautifully with fruit and aromatics. The 2024 is smooth and fresh (13% alcohol), and has a gorgeous nose of wild cherries and melon. The mouth is clean and crisp with a faint note of grapeskin and a burst of stony freshness. Serve with chicken or summer vegetables on the grill.
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