Thomas Wilcox, Author at Ansonia Wines - Page 69 of 131

Posted on September 12, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

Brilliant New Châteauneuf-du-Pape. $34

The 2017 vintage was an unusual one in the Southern Rhône. Growers encountered coulure in the Grenache vines, as a cold snap after flowering dramatically restricted the development of fruit. Low Grenache yields meant low Grenache percentages in the wines, leaving the stage open for other grapes to shine.

And chez Christophe Mestre, the understudy Syrah performed magnificently. Mestre’s red cuvée usually features 70-85% Grenache, with Syrah somewhere around 5-10%. The 2017 features equal parts Grenache and Syrah (30% each) with Mourvèdre (25%) and Cinsault (15%) making up the rest.

The 2017 Mestre may be atypical, but it’s also flat out delicious. At first glance the perfume in the nose might make you think of Cornas or Côte Rôtie; but the accompanying notes and the mouth are pure, unbridled South.

Christophe Mestre continues to turn out delicious Châteauneuf du Pape at unusually good prices. He avoids heavy oaking and luxury cuvées, preferring an old school, uncomplicated style of wine. He makes a single red cuvée, and keeps his pricing astonishingly reasonable. Beaucastel this isn’t, but we think it vastly overperforms its $34 price tag.

His 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape won a gold medal at the Concours d’Orange, and it’s easy to see why. The wine offers a gorgeous floral nose, with Syrah’s violets front and center. The Syrah contributes structure as well, which means that this wine should stay textured a bit longer than his other Grenache-heavy cuvées. There’s really good complexity and a touch of tar and earth to go with the deep, dark fruit. Serve this all fall and winter as the weather turns cold.

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Mestre Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017
bottle price: $34

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Posted on September 11, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

Delicious New Syrah from a Cornas Legend. $32

The Domaine Dumien-Serrette is relatively new to the Ansonia portfolio, but hardly new to their hometown of Cornas — records show Dumiens living there in 1515. Our allocation from this grower last year was so small that it sold out entirely in Futures, and we weren’t able to offer any of their delicious 2016 Cornas from inventory.

This year our allocation grew — along with their excellent 2017 Cornas Patou, we’ve added their other two cuvées: Cornas “Henri,” and Vin de France “Le Moulin.” All three are pure, inky, first-rate syrah — all three from Dumien-Serrette available here.

The Cornas “Henri” will need patience and investment, but the VDF “Le Moulin” requires neither. 2018 is the first vintage of this wine, made from young vines across the Rhône River from Cornas. It’s not as serious as Dumien-Serrette’s authentic Cornas, but we found it hard to put down.

Dumien Serrette’s Vin de France “Moulin” is delightful — a perfect blend of freshness and intensity. It’s raised in 12 year-old barrels, so there are no notes of oak; it’s entirely destemmed, so the tannins are juicy and approachable. The nose shows violets, earth, cassis, and raspberry; the mouth is spiced and juicy, with excellent freshness and gulpable texture.

Moulin offers a glimpse into the terroir in and around Cornas — black fruits, concentrated depth, and a spice-filled palate — but comes in under $35/bot. Fans of Syrah, Cornas, and value take note.

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Dumien-Serrette Syrah “Moulin” 2018
bottle price: $32

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Posted on September 10, 2019September 10, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

A Discovery in St-Aubin: Exquisite White Burgundy from our Newest Winemaker

Burgundy is a tough place to find new winemakers. It’s a tiny, well-trodden region, with limited supply and ever increasing demand. It often feels like the best producers have all been discovered.

But it pays to keep looking. At a restaurant in Beaune in April we happened upon a near-unknown gem. It took some persistence, but after numerous calls, texts, and door-knockings, we managed to arrange a late-afternoon tasting with the Domaine Bohrmann in Meursault.

Bohrmann doesn’t sound very French, and it isn’t — Sofie Borhmann is from Belgium, and she began making wine in Burgundy in 2002 with just 1.5 hectares of vines. We’re not sure where she’s been hiding, or why no other American importers have found her. But her wines blew us away, and we’re thrilled to introduce them to you today.

We’ve imported a range Bohrmann’s whites and reds — full range available here. But today we’re focusing on her St-Aubin 1er cru “En Remilly.” It’s simply gorgeous: thick and full of a rippling intensity, combining perfectly ripe golden fruit with structure and minerality.

Bohrmann’s style is low oak, pure fruit, and exquisitely balanced texture: richness, depth and energy all at once. Raised in only 15% new oak for a year, their St-Aubin 1er cru comes from “En Remilly,” one of the town’s best known vineyards. Tucked just over the hill from Montrachet Grand Cru, En Remilly is a south-facing premier cru that combines ripe fruit with classic minerality.

This wine is lively and generous at the same time. It’s rich and bold in the mouth, but not at the expense of elegance. There’s precision capable of enhancing your most refined dishes — sole meuniere, for example. The use of oak is perfect: support for the minerals and fruit, but without too much spice or toast.

We couldn’t be more excited about the Bohrmann discovery. We’ll be introducing their other cuvées throughout the month — we couldn’t be more excited to have them in stock at last.

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Bohrmann St-Aubin 1er “En Remilly” 2017
bottle price: $49

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Posted on September 8, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

Juicy, Mouthfilling $18 Juliénas: Autumn Gamay Arrives

The 2018 vintage in the Beaujolais was another warm one, producing cuvées of remarkable inky intensity. On Beaujolais 2018s, William Kelley (WA) writes: “pleasure-bent, round and expressive, these are wines that will give a great deal of immediate pleasure.”

Jean-Marc Monnet’s 2018 Beaujolais reds arrived in our warehouse today, just in time for the fall. All of Monnet’s 2018s are impressive — they combine floral, juicy Gamay fruit with an unusually concentration and depth. If Beaujolais makes you think of faint, fruity, unserious wine, think again.

Monnet’s 2018 Juliénas is an extraordinary amount of wine packed into an $18 bottle.

Jean-Marc Monnet has quietly made his wine in every vintage since 1981 (that’s 37 years). All of his wines are raised traditionally, in foudres, and bottled “when they’re ready.” There’s no flash and no marketing, and hardly even a sign on the door; just really good wine year in and year out.

Monnet’s 2018 Juliénas is bold, masculine, mouthfilling, and simply outstanding. We sometimes describe good Beaujolais as Gamay that feels like Northern Rhône Syrah; in 2018, the Gamay might be closer to Mourvèdre.

The nose is darkly floral (Jean-Marc accurately noted peonies as a tasting note), with cassis, graphite, and minerals. The mouth is bold, smooth, rich, and seductive. The tannins are ripe and soft, with punchy fruit and a long, clean finish.

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Monnet Juliénas 2018
bottle price: $18

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Posted on September 5, 2019September 5, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

“Superb,” “Succulent” Red Burgundies under $35

When we first met Gautier Desvignes he was 12. We happened across the Desvignes family domaine in 1998, during our year spent living in Burgundy. We’ve been fans of their rugged, affordable, delicious red Burgundies for over two decades. Five years ago the twenty-something Gautier took over operations, and the quality has dramatically improved.

And so it warms our hearts to see the Propriété Desvignes begin to receive the acclaim it deserves. Neal Martin of Vinous recently described their wines as having “wonderful balance,” calling them “excellent,” and “really quite superb.” The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley wrote an extensive piece last month on the Côte Chalonnaise. In it he praised the Desvignes wines as “succulent,” “elegant,” and “a decided success,” and even named Gautier one of the region’s “Five Emerging Talents to Watch.”

Kelley’s notes are on the 2017s, which will be included in next month’s October Futures. But we’ve already got some 2015 and 2016s in stock, and they’re drinking beautifully. Give them a try, and see what all the fuss is about.

Desvignes Givry 2015: $25
Classic, punchy red Burgundy that drinks far above its pricetag. The nose is ripe and beautifully textured, with notes of cherry jam, violets, stones, and baking spices. The mouth is fresh and sturdy but not at all harsh, with a rich, juicy attack followed by a smooth, perfectly balanced, mouthfeel.

Desvignes Givry 2016: $26
From a younger, less sun-baked vintage, the 2016 drinks a bit fresher than the 2015. The nose is ripe and unusually complex, showing tapenade, maillard reaction, thyme and blackberries; the mouth is ripe and bursting, with notes of cherry compote and dried roses. Pair with cheeses at cocktail hour.

Desvignes 1er Le Vernoy 2016: $32
2016 was the debut vintage for the cuvée, and we think it’s likely to become a favorite. The nose is very pretty, with bright fruits and notes of strawberry, violets, and earth. The mouth is intricate and delightful, “light on its toes” as Neal Martin puts it, with very fine tannins and a pleasant clean finish. If your idea of Givry is rustic and hearty, this will cause you to expand your definition.

Posted on September 3, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

“Superb” New Chambolle-Musigny

For years we’ve searched for a source in Chambolle-Musigny. The town has both a stellar reputation and miniscule size (population 300), and it hasn’t been easy to find a domaine without existing importing relationships. But this spring we finally stumbled upon the Domaine Boursot, a humble family of winemakers right in the heart of Chambolle.

The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in 1550; for centuries, like many Burgundy domaines, they sold their entire production each year to the negociants of Beaune. In 1974 Remy Boursot began bottling on his own, and today it’s his sons Romauld and Romaric making the wines as the 15th generation of Boursots.

We discovered the Boursots in part via a note from Vinous’s Burgundy reviewer Neal Martin, who writes of a “foundation for a promising future,” and describes Boursot’s wines as “superb,” “excellent,” “very fine,” and “worth seeking out.”

We won’t claim Boursot’s Chambolle is in the same league as Mugnier or Roumier. But the family has near-priceless terroir, and the new generation of brothers has big plans and lots of energy. And the wines prove this out: they’re clear, careful, gorgeous expressions of exceptional terroir. And at $69 we think their village is a bargain, particularly next to village-level Chambolles from Mugnier ($160+) and Roumier ($250+).

Boursot’s village level Chambolle-Musigny comes from Nazoires, a plot near the Vougeot border. The nose is unmistakably Chambolle — silky and delicate, with notes of wild cherries, smoke, and violets. The mouth is silky and long, with fruit melting effortlessly into tannins. Burgundy author Bill Nanson called the 2017 “simply a beauty.” This should improve for 4-6 years, but it’s delightful today — several cases walked out of the depot last month when we had it open to taste.

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Boursot Chambolle-Musigny 2017
bottle price: $69

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Posted on September 3, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

Iconic 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: “Uniformly Outstanding”

With football in season and a chill in the evening air, autumn is just around the corner. We haven’t abandoned the rosé or Chablis just yet, but we’re making preparations for the new season.

And there’s no better match for cool weather than Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The best Châteauneufs all contain a splash of southern sunlight, combining the region’s rugged, sunbaked earthiness with rich, mouthfilling fruit.

On the 2016 vintage, Josh Raynolds of Vinous wrote recently: “If exuberant ripe fruit, harmonious tannins and an overall impression of generosity and lushness are what you’re after in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, then 2016 has plenty to offer. But the best wines also display real energy, making this a standout vintage.”

Today’s 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape comes from one of the appellation’s foremost producers. Jacqueline André tends her ancient 140-year-old vines with the care and attentiveness of a loving parent. The original organic and biodynamic source in Châteauneuf, André’s wines are a standard for elegance and clarity.

Even from a warm vintage with perfectly ripe fruit and rich deep material, Jacqueline André’s wines retain vibrancy and life. She’s a master of balance, a consistent quality in her wines she attributes to biodynamic viticulture, and careful choice of harvest dates.

André’s 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a masterpiece. Though it’s lush, intense, and enormous, it achieves it all without becoming flat or dry. Look for notes of plum, licorice, raspberry jam, and tapenade in the nose — the mouth is dense and extremely long, with bold flavors of cherry jam and wood bolstered by rich, voluptuous tannins.

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André Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016
bottle price: $58

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Posted on August 27, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

Masterful 2017 Red Burgundy: a Grand Cru Neighbor under $60

By Burgundy standards, Gevrey-Chambertin is an enormous appellation. It covers a thousand acres, including a whopping 135 acres of Grand Cru. Its wines are of a similar scale — rich, meaty, bold Pinot Noir balancing delicacy and depth.

Many of Burgundy’s best value wines come from vineyards just over the border from the iconic names. We often write about Domaine Amiot’s “Combottes,” a premier cru Gevrey vineyard surrounded by Grand Crus. Today we’re suggesting a Amiot’s village-level Gevrey, a similarly well located plot at a remarkable price.

Pierre Amiot’s village level Gevrey comes from two plots bordering the famous Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin. The Grand Cru will run you $200-$300; (and we think Combottes is a bargain at $92). But Amiot’s village-level wine just from feet away doesn’t even crack $60.

Amiot is a small scale, fifth generation winemaker in Morey-St-Denis. In a good year they make 100 cases of their village level Gevrey, making it one of their smallest volume cuvées. Most of Amiot’s wines come from Morey-St-Denis, a town known for its finesse and minerality — the Amiots have mastered the art of drawing subtle elegance from Burgundian Pinot Noir.

Apply this delicate touch to neighboring Gevrey’s bold terroir, and the resulting wines are simply captivating. Amiot’s 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin is dark, meaty and bursting with smooth inky fruit. Look for spiced plums, cassis, blackberry, and woods. It should age nicely for 3-4 years, but drink beautifully today.

French wine writers have taken to calling the 2017 Burgundies “restaurant wines” — plentiful, approachable, sturdy, and delicious from the start. Here’s a restaurant wine for your home kitchen — pour it from a carafe as you welcome the return of that crisp autumn air at last.

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Amiot Gevrey-Chambertin 2017
bottle price: $55

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Posted on August 27, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

Crisp Autumn Red: Delightful, Refreshing Pinot Noir

Sancerre has always been the star of the Loire Valley. Though recent years have seen interest rise in the region’s other appellations, Sancerre remains the best known and among the best-liked. It’s popular, easy to drink, easy to pronounce, and pairs well with lots of dishes.

Today’s wine is classic Sancerre — mineral, bright, and refreshing… it just happens to be red. Nearly a quarter of the appellation is planted to Pinot Noir. Like the Sauvignon Blanc used to make white Sancerre, Pinot Noir deftly and elegantly expresses the minerality of Sancerre’s terroir.

The whites of the Domaine de la Garenne have already received a warm welcome from our readers — they’re cool, lively, refreshing, full of intensity and elegance. Garenne’s Sancerre rouge is in the same line: refreshing and well balanced, with no new oak and an unusually complex palate.

If the words “Sancerre rouge” call to mind a simple fruit-forward wine, this wine should expand that notion. There’s indeed beautiful red fruit with violets and honey, but also a complex earthiness, both from stones and forest floor. The smooth, relaxed tannins make this go down surprisingly easily — you’ll be amazed how fast a bottle disappears from your autumn table.

Serve this wine cool, with goat cheese on crackers.

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Garenne Sancerre rouge 2017
bottle price: $25

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Posted on August 24, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

[ADVANCE ORDER] The Return of Pouilly-Fuissé: New Style, New Status

For years Pouilly-Fuissé was the darling of American wine drinkers. Fun to pronounce, rich and voluptuous in texture, it was among the first high-end French wines to gain wide appeal in the US. Beginning in the 1970s, it was a fixture of French restaurants’ wine lists.

Popularity bred overproduction, and quality suffered in the 80s. And by 2000 the global palate had begun to shift away from rich, buttery wines. But in the last few decades local winemakers have begun to reclaim the wine, controlling balance and elevating quality.

Nicolas Maillet, our source in the Maconnais, has taken this development to an extreme. His exceptional Pouilly-Fuissé was once the only white in his lineup raised in any oak, but beginning last year he has eliminated oak for this one too.

When we asked him about his decision to omit oak from the winemaking, he explained it simply: “I realized the wine is good enough without oak; it doesn’t need it. So why add it?”

Maillet’s 2016 Pouilly-Fuissé will be featured in next Sunday’s September Futures issue, along with his excellent 2017 Macon-Village and Macon-Verzé. But we’re examining the Pouilly-Fuissé in a bit more detail today.

Maillet’s Pouilly-Fuissé vines are from an extraordinary plot: vines planted in 1945, from one of a handful of terroirs recently elevated to Premier Cru status. (The new status will appear on the label beginning in 2017.) Longtime readers may remember the now-retired Michel Forests’s excellent “Sur la Roche” cuvée — Maillet’s vines are from the same vineyard.

One taste of this wine and we think you’ll agree: it’s not missing anything. The terroir gives extraordinary complexity on its own — baked lemon, minerals, flowers, and herbs melt into a gorgeous and pulsating texture. The nose is expressive and delicate; the mouth is startlingly long.

But, as with everything else graced by the “Maillet touch,” the balance is impeccable: acidity, richness, length and aromatics all in perfect harmony. It’s elegant, polished, sophisticated white Burgundy; and from Futures it’s under $30/bot.

Available by the case and half-case; first come, first served. Arrival expected in November.

Maillet Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
$350/case

AVAILABLE BY THE CASE AND HALF CASE

To reserve this wine, email Tom.

Posted on August 21, 2019August 22, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

Tomatoes + Chianti = Summer (🍅 + 🍷 = ☀️)

Tomatoes have always been one of our favorite parts of summer. Whether raw and chopped into a bruschetta, baked into a tart, or cooked down into a rich tomato sauce, an in-season tomato is an entirely different fruit from the out-of season variety. For tomato inspiration, check out this list.

And chez nous, when tomatoes are on the table, Poggerino is never far away. The lone Italian source in our portfolio, the Fattoria Poggerino’s star has risen dramatically in recent years. Writer Rajat Parr calls them “some of the purest expressions of the grape in Italy.” The Wine Spectator recently profiled the vineyard, calling their wines “impeccably balanced” and “pure, honest wine.”

Poggerino’s young-vine “Labirinto” cuvée is pure Sangiovese from 35+ year old vines. The nose is very ripe and juicy, with plum and sweet cherry notes. The mouth is young, earthy, and vibrant, with sturdy tannins under a smooth patina of fruit jam. Pair it with a tomato lemon tart on puff pastry, or a simple homemade pizza.

For a buck more a glass, there’s Poggerino’s traditional Chainti Classico. The 2015 is unusually good, with strawberry jam and anise on the nose, and cherries and roses in the mouth. The texture is firm and long, with excellent aging potential; but today the wine opens beautifully in a glass or carafe. Serve it with Marcella Hazan’s iconic tomato sauce over pasta.

And finally Poggerino makes a Chianti Classico Riserva they call “Bugiala.” This wine requires aging, and in an excellent vintage like 2015, is a bottle get out for a special occasion. Jancis Robinson called the 2015 Riserva “particularly polished,” and the Wine Spectator awarded a whopping 96 points. For your elegant roast lamb with rosemary and tomatoes, go with the Riserva.

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Poggerino Labirinto 2017
bottle price: $19.95

Poggerino Chianti Classico 2015
bottle price: $25

Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva 2015
bottle price: $45

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Posted on August 19, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

Lunch with the Amiots: “Outstanding,” 91 points, 6 Years in the Bottle

Jean-Louis and Chantal Amiot are a charming couple. Together with Jean-Louis’s brother Didier, they make wine in the tiny town of Morey-St-Denis, in the heart of Burgundy. They’re kind, warm, and welcoming; and they happen to be exceptional winemakers.

Last year they graciously took us to lunch after our cellar tasting, and this year they let us repay the favor. After sampling their delicious 2017s (browse our stock), Chantal suggested we bring a bottle to lunch. We asked them what they thought was drinking well today — they chose the 2013 Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Millandes.”

At first it seemed like a slightly odd choice — a tricky vintage, a cuvée that requires cellaring. But of course we followed their lead, and quickly saw their logic.

The Amiot’s 2013 “Millandes” is in a beautiful place. The acidity, which was relatively high after bottling, has mellowed and matured — it now serves as beautiful foil for the gently softened fruits. The cherries and currants present in its early life have melted gracefully into plum jam, and now share the stage with a gorgeous array of secondary aromas — earth. cocoa, black pepper, mushrooms, and woods.

Burghound awarded 91 points, calling it “oustanding,” “suave and very round,” and finding “excellent richness.” Millandes is a premier cru vineyard just a few feet from the famous Grand Cru Clos de la Roche. And the exceptional terroir from which this wine springs has carried it magnificently, even in an “off” year. In April with the Amiots it matched beautifully with magret de canard, and if you like duck we strongly recommend the pairing.

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Amiot Morey-St-Denis 1er “Millandes” 2013
bottle price: $75

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Posted on August 19, 2019August 19, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

New 2015 Pomerol: Cassis, Cocoa and Velvet

Pomerol is Bordeaux on a Burgundy scale. The small right bank appellation covers less than three square miles, and is home to only 150 winemakers. But the wines of Pomerol are anything but small. In his landmark World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson calls Pomerol “richest, most velvety and instantly appealing form of red Bordeaux.”

Planted in most other locales, Merlot produces soft, flat, undistinguished wines. But in Pomerol, the grape soars, producing some of the worlds most intense and expensive wines. Like Chardonnay and Chablis, Syrah and Côte Rôtie, it’s a persuasive argument for the power of terroir.

This spring we discovered an excellent new source in Pomerol, and one offering surprising value. The 2015 Feytit-Lagrave Pomerol impressed us with its depth and polish. At 80% Merlot (the rest is Cabernet Franc), the wine is very Pomerol: generous, rich, and round, with an attractive mouthfeel. The nose offers ripe dark fruit, cassis and blackberries.

Fans of Pomerol will know how well the wine ages, and in a top vintage (like 2015) this wine will certainly improve for a decade or more. But we found it opens steadily in the glass over an hour, offering earlier drinking than you might expect. Pair it with a roast — duck, beef tenderloin, grilled steaks — something to match the hearty, audacious spirit of Pomerol.

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Feytit-Lagrave Pomerol 2015
bottle price: $55

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Posted on August 13, 2019August 13, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

Grilling Guide: 20 Wines under $30

We do lots of grilling in the summer. For nice cuts of meat we suggest fancier red Burgundies or Bordeaux — something complex to sit with and enjoy slowly. But for simpler fare — burgers, shish kabob, vegetables, chicken, steak tips, etc — we like reds that aren’t too complicated.

Below is a list of our favorite, grouped by pairing suggestion. We’ve also added a new grilling sampler with free East Coast shipping.

Need more grilling inspiration? Here are links to some great lists:
Bon Appetit: 89 Grilling Recipes
NYTimes: “How to Grill”
Food52: Grilling Recipes

GRILLED BURGERS

Goubert Beaumes de Venise 2017: $22
Saint-Clair Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” 2016: $25
Bagatelle St-Chinian “Fil de Soi” 2016: $22
Paget Chinon 2016: $22

GRILLED CHICKEN

Desvignes Givry 2015: $25
Perrachon Juliénas “Clos des Chers” 2015: $25
Poggerino Labirinto 2017: $19.95
Souverain Seguret 2017: $19

GRILLED STEAK

Lafont-Menaut Pessac-Leognan rouge 2016: $24
Bouquey St-Emilion 2015: $25
Poggerino Chianti Classico 2015: $25
Goubert Gigondas 2015: $28

GRILLED LAMB

Bonnefond Syrah 2017: $25
Foulaquier Orphée 2017: $28
Saint-Clair Crozes-Hermitage “Fleur Enchantée” 2016: $28
Malmont Côtes du Rhône 2016: 24

GRILLED SHRIMP

Gross Riesling 2017: $19
Mersiol Auxerrois 2017: $18
Maillet Macon-Villages 2016: $24
Goubert Rosé de Flo 2018: $19

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MIXED CASE: GRILLING REDS $265

Grilling reds from Burgundy, Bordeaux, Loire, and Rhône

3x Desvignes Givry 2015
3x Bouquey St-Emilion Grand Cru 2015
3x Paget Chinon 2016
3x Souverain Séguret 2017
+ Free East Coast Shipping

Posted on August 11, 2019August 13, 2019 by Thomas Wilcox

“Seductively Textured,” “Outstanding” 93-point Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru

Thomas Morey makes some of the most delicate white Burgundies we know. Far from the rich, opulent style of the past decades, Morey’s Chassagnes are refined, subtle, and sophisticated. Burgundy expert Jasper Morris MW calls them “very pure, precise and elegant,” as well as “excellent.”

At the village level, Morey’s Chassagne-Montrachet draws from 14 plots across the appellation. Morey explained to us he feels it’s important to have a cuvée that represents his town (where his family has lived for five centuries) as a whole. His 2017 village level Chassagne is excellent and a great value.

But at the premier cru level, Morey bottles each plot separately — and after one taste of today’s Embrazées you’ll see why.

Embrazées is a premier cru in the Morgeot sector of Chassagne, a neighborhood known for its bold, round wines. This lush terroir combined with Morey’s precise style makes this cuvée extraordinary. The name Embrazées roughly translates to “aglow” or “aflame,” and the wine indeed glows with intensity and a smooth sophistication.

Jasper Morris awarded 93 points, finding it “lovely” and “fresh.” Burghound gave 92, calling it “outstanding,” and “seductively textured,” finding “voluminous flavors” and an “impressively long, clean, dry and focused finish.” We found notes of peach, hazelnut, and lemon — serve with lobster and butter.

This should improve for 3-5 years, but in a decanter today it’s not a wine you’ll soon forget.

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Morey Chassagne-Montrachet
1er cru “Embrazées” 2017
bottle price: $85

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