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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021 vintage is a marker of unusual…
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Winemaker Philippe Cheron’s success in the tricky 2021 vintage is a marker of unusual talent. His unmarked cuverie is hidden down a back street in Nuits-St-Georges, and Cheron himself is quiet and pensive. But his wines more than speak for themselves. From a vineyard near the border with Vosne-Romanée. It was vinified from 100% whole bunches, which gave it a terrific intensity and depth. The nose is inky and dark with cassis and violets, the mouth long and sleek. Morris gave 92-95 points, finding “a gorgeous, airy, floral note to the bouquet, and the little dryness at the back which will soon disappear into the sweet cherry fruit.” The vines were planted in the mid nineteen-forties, and the special intensity and length of wine from truly old vines shows through.
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. The Morey St. Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes” is well-named. It is usually the first of the three to drink well, and that is likely to be the case with this vintage. Already aromatically expressive, it garnered praise from Allen Meadows (Burghound) for its “layered mix of red and dark pinot fruit, anise and soft floral wisps” as well as its “delicious, rich and quite suave medium-bodied flavors.”  This ages beautifully, but it’s hard to keep your hands off it young.
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the…
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The Amiots have tended vines in Morey-St-Denis since 1702, and in 2020 welcomed the 10th generation Léon Amiot back to the domaine. He's brought a passion for organic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking. We’ve always loved the wines from the Amiot family, but we’re even more excited about where they’re going. The Morey St. Denis 1er cru “Les Millandes” is a bigger wine, with more structure and the need for a little more time to integrate its elements.  There’s a bit more oak (30% new barrels vs. 20% in Charmes) and a similar increase in whole clusters. As Burghound put it, “The sleek, delicious, and tension-filled larger-bodied and tautly muscular flavors display the hallmark power of a classic Millandes.” This is very refined, and very Morey-St-Denis.
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick…
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Léon Amiot is first and foremost a farmer. A cheerful twentysomething with a quick smile and friendly demeanor, he’s traveled the world gaining extensive viticultural experience, and has brought real energy and renewed focus to his family’s tiny 5-hectare gem of an estate in Morey-St-Denis. He’s officially organic as of this year, but has already started the process of biodynamic certification. He has abandoned herbicides, planted cover crops, and this year begins an agroforestry project in the name of vineyard biodiversity. This is the northernmost vineyard in Morey-St-Denis, and sits on the border with Charmes-Chambertin, a Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru. The charming silky quality for which “Charmes” is known is there in spades, with elegant notes of earth, cassis, and smoke. The classic, chiseled character of Morey-St-Denis is below the surface here too, and the combination is enticing. Burghound found it “succulent, round and seductively textured,” with a “velvety mid-palate.
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Chambolle-Musigny is known for its elegance and silky texture, and indeed the Cherons’ cuvées…
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Chambolle-Musigny is known for its elegance and silky texture, and indeed the Cherons’ cuvées here show exquisite polish. But they trend more towards deepness and intensity, making them terrific candidates for aging. Today’s wine is from the outstanding 2019 vintage, now six years on from harvest. Chambolle is usually delicious right from the barrel, but it’s only with a few years’ age that the town’s magic really shines through. Couvent’s Chambolle-Musigny “Clos de l’Orme” is from a village plot bordering the strip of premier crus, a vineyard rich in minerals with excellent drainage. Cheron bottles the rest of his village Chambolle plots together, but holds this one out for its refined intensity. Jasper Morris found it “attractive, balanced and long,” and Neal Martin writes of its "succulent black cherry and blueberry fruit, smooth and harmonious.”
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Just north of the famous Grand Cru vineyard Clos Vougeot a narrow valley channels…
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Just north of the famous Grand Cru vineyard Clos Vougeot a narrow valley channels groundwater into a bubbling spring at the base of the slope. This boiling meadow, or champ bouillant in French, gave Chambolle its name. The Boursots have been making wine there for the past 475 years.Boursot’s 2023 Chambolle Musigny came in at 13.1% and saw 25% new oak. It is a bigger wine than usual for village Chambolle, with a lot of density on the palate and enough structure to age well. There is an expressive nose of ripe fruit with floral notes alongside. We’d suggest perhaps a year in the cellar followed by many years of sampling as it evolves.
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Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of…
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Vincent Boyer somehow continues to fly a bit under the radar of much of the international wine press. He’s an insiders’ producer with a mouthwatering collection of terroirs; together with his sister Sylvie who handles much of the viticulture, they continue to turn out magnificent expressions of their unparalleled terroir. Boyer’s 2023s are simply delicious – juicy and fleshy and approachable, but with excellent tension and low alcohol.In Puligny, Vincent and Sylvie farm a small village level plot just north of town in Reuchaux. It’s a tricky plot in an unusual spot, but the wine it produces is exceptional. The 2023 is the best we can remember. The nose is exquisite, a mixture of stones, pear, flowers and flax. The mouth is classic Puligny – chiseled and fine – but with unusually attractive weight this year.
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