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From old vines, clay-rich Gevrey terroir, and an unusually bold vintage, this is as…
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From old vines, clay-rich Gevrey terroir, and an unusually bold vintage, this is as muscly and intense as red Burgundy gets. The blend of sweet fruit and oak recall a big time Pomerol in the mouth, though the essential character is of course Burgundian. Burghound found “notes of poached plum, black cherry jam, and subtle hints of spice, warm earth and the sauvage.” In fact, the 2018 is closer to a Grand Cru than usual in intensity and sheer size. More from Varoilles
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Winemaker Gilbert Hammel retired after the 2019 vintage and has been replaced by Philippe…
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Winemaker Gilbert Hammel retired after the 2019 vintage and has been replaced by Philippe Cheron, a well-established winemaker in the Côte de Nuits whose family owned the Varoilles vineyards years ago. Cheron has combined his properties under a new name, the Domaine du Couvent. The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Clos des Varoilles” was vinified by Gilbert Hammel and bottled by Philippe Cheron. It is an excellent vintage for the wine, which is as always a big wine with lots of body, mouthfilling and rich. The fruit is dark and lovely, with an earthy mineral line and a persistent finish. Nanson writes: “a flavour that melts and slowly fades over the palate…Delicious and complex wine with a nervosité… Excellent again.”
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their…
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual. This wine is very much a Puligny, giving up a bit of Chassagne’s weight for a racy elegance. The fruit and floral notes are carefully channeled across a long, very intense palate. It will need some time to develop, but its dry freshness should soften just as the floral notes in the nose begin to assert themselves and the white peach and lemon fruit melt together.
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The 2021s from Gros are an unmitigated triumph, and even more impressive given the…
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The 2021s from Gros are an unmitigated triumph, and even more impressive given the difficult vintage. Abundant rain and a cooler summer produced wines with less concentration than the last few scorching hot years – a welcome relief from the chewy, syrah-like Pinots of recent memory. Across the board Gros’s 2021s are elegant, refined, and middle weight, with subtly extracted tannins and beautiful length. Their lighter touch has meant they’re more charming young than we expected. Drawn mostly from a plot abutting Musigny Grand Cru, this overperforms it’s village-level billing by a mile. Neal Martin of Vinous found “an enticing nose with pressed violet and iris,” with “supple tannins, velvety smooth, and fine depth.” This always a top cuvée at Gros and the 2021 is no different. It’s elegant and classy, full of tension, precision, and the domaine’s signature smoky polish. We think the 2021s will age a decade with ease, but it’s already a tremendous glass of red Burgundy today.
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy – he has no…
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy – he has no family connection to wine or the region, and has only been making wine for six years. His wife Laure is of a storied Burgundian family (Hudelot-Noëllat), but they have short winemaking experience and almost zero reviews. And since a hidden gem is the perpetual pursuit of all importers, we squeezed an appointment in late in the afternoon of our final tasting day this spring -- we're certainly glad we did. The Volnay 1er cru Mitans 2022 is everything in the village wine, but more so. Mitans is on the northern side of Volnay, near the Pommard border. It produces intense, concentrated wines full of compact fruit and character. Baillot’s is bold and beautiful, with beautiful spice elements in the nose (cinnamon, clove) alongside violets and cassis. As with all of Baillot’s wines, the oak is minimal and perfectly integrated. This will reward a few years’ patience beautifully.
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WA 95-98 "Production of Robert's 2018 Cornas Pur Noir will be either one or two…
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WA 95-98 "Production of Robert's 2018 Cornas Pur Noir will be either one or two barrels, sourced from a tiny parcel next to Champelrose and La Fontaine. Full-bodied and dense yet not over-extracted or overripe, both barrels I tasted from showed an impressive degree of elegance, potent plum and cassis flavors and tremendous finishes. One barrel had more licorice, the other was more floral and minty."
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Grassl Model: Cru Recommended for: Red Burgundy, Northern Rhône Syrah, Condrieu Details: Volume: 670ml, Height: 230mm…
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Grassl Model: Cru Recommended for: Red Burgundy, Northern Rhône Syrah, Condrieu Details: Volume: 670ml, Height: 230mm, Diameter: 110mm "The thing that impressed us most was also the hardest to pin down. Put simply, these glasses make you pause -- their featherweight delicacy compels attention. Not every wine requires such contemplation, but for those that do, a tool like this is indispensable." ALL STEMWARE SHIPS FOR FREE (Shipping time usually 2-3 weeks)
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