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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny…
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Michel Chauvet and his son are the winemakers at the Domaine Lancelot-Royer, a tiny house in Cramant in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. All of their wines come from grapes they grow themselves, and their vineyards are 100% Chardonnay from exclusively Grand Cru vineyards. Everything here is done by hand, from harvesting and riddling to disgorging, dosing and labeling. This “Dualisme” is  Extra Brut, and comes from 40 year old vines in the two famous towns of Chouilly and Avize. This cuvée is equal parts 2017 and 2015 base, with 15% coming from reserve barrels. With 5 years on the lees, this is prettier and more savory than the “Chevaliers” cuvée. There’s less dosage (4g instead of 9g) and the character is more serious. This wine shows spring flowers and lemon zest in the nose, with excellent tension and tons of length in the mouth.
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At the Domaine Michel Gros, 2020 brings another stellar lineup of beautiful red Burgundies…
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At the Domaine Michel Gros, 2020 brings another stellar lineup of beautiful red Burgundies, very much in the style of the superb 2019s. The 2020 growing season in the Côte de Nuits was much like 2019: hot, sunny, dry, and very early. New to the lineup this year is the domaine’s new Gevrey-Chambertin cuvée, an addition that completes the list of famous Côte de Nuits towns in the family portfolio. The vines are all from “la Platière,” a village level plot east of the RN-74, and the wine combines Gevrey’s typical burly, masculine terroir with Michel’s signature polish. We found it unusually floral for a Gevrey, and Burghound agreed, finding it “relatively elegant” for the appellation, with a nicely persistent, balanced and complex finale.
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Most consider Puligny-Montrachet to be white Burgundy’s highest form. The chiseled, stony intensity found…
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Most consider Puligny-Montrachet to be white Burgundy’s highest form. The chiseled, stony intensity found in its wines make them well suited to balance a ripe vintage, and the 2020s we’ve tasted from Puligny have been even more attractive than usual. Vincent Boyer's village-level “Reuchaux” comes from vines just north of the village, not far from the Meursault border. The domaine’s signature sophistication and charm are in effect here, but in a more detailed and fine-tuned package. Boyer’s extended aging in eggs makes Reuchaux more approachable young than it used to be, but we still think it’s at its best after a year in the cellar. In short, this is regal, refined, and lovely white Burgundy.
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Pascal’s newest cuvée, called “Reserve 2014,”  is essentially the Brut Traditionnel cuvée, but left…
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Pascal’s newest cuvée, called “Reserve 2014,”  is essentially the Brut Traditionnel cuvée, but left on the lees for an extra half-decade; the base cuvée comes from the 2014 vintage. Champagne, you’ll remember, undergoes two fermentations – a first in tanks (like any other wine), and then a second in bottle under bottlecap. After the second fermentation is complete, the winemaker may choose to disgorge (remove yeast and insert a cork) promptly, or hold for longer “on the lees.”  The extra time on the lees has transformed the wine into something extraordinary, far closer to his vintage champagne than the more humble Traditionnel. The wine shows an exquisite array of chalk, fruit, earth and toast. The mouth is subtle and long, with a delicious, vinous finish.
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Thirtysomething Justine Clerget (Christian’s daughter) is now in charge of this tiny gem of…
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Thirtysomething Justine Clerget (Christian’s daughter) is now in charge of this tiny gem of a domaine in Vougeot. She's brought renewed energy, refined techniques, and a passion for organic viticulture. The Clerget wines were always classical, terroir-transparent, old school red Burgundy; Justine has maintained this spirit but added polish and class. The Chambolle is a blend from six different plots around the town, and shows the village’s classic silky, seductive nature. Neal Martin gave 90-92 points, praising its “sense of vibrancy and tension” on a “very well-controlled and persistent finish,” concluding “this is worth seeking out.” This is a wine of perfume, elegance, and grace, but with real density from the hot, dry summer – we think it punches above its village weight.
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Several readers are already hooked on our newest Champagne producer, RH Coutier. Coutier has…
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Several readers are already hooked on our newest Champagne producer, RH Coutier. Coutier has been a favorite of Vinous founder Antonio Galloni “for years;” he calls their wines “gorgeous… showing the natural richness of Ambonnay.” The Coutier style is open and accessible – the non-vintage “Traditionnel” is expressive, captivating wine at an exceptional price – today we’re introducing their finest cuvée. We opened Coutier’s 2015 vintage champagne at a private tasting last week and it blew everyone (including the author of this post) away. It’s 75/25 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay, and has spent 96 months on the lees, gaining astounding complexity and depth. At 3g of dosage, this is dry, sophisticated and simply extraordinary.
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Thanksgiving Whites
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Thanksgiving Reds
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Thanksgiving Bubbles
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