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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words…
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware.  You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir. The vines in Chassagne 1er cru Embrazées are 63 years old, planted by Thomas’s grandfather in a field that had been abandoned after phylloxera. The 2022 is a stunner – long and lithe with deep fruit channeled beautifully into a concentrated core that ripples with energy and intensity. Morey’s usual restraint is in effect, and the wine is rich without an ounce of heaviness.
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words…
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Look up “Thomas Morey” in the proverbial Ansonia winemaker dictionary, and you’ll find words like “deliberate,” “thoughtful,” “minimalist,” “precise.” Morey’s cellar style is as clean and detailed as his wire rimmed glasses and his Zalto stemware.  You might imagine a hot dry year like 2022 would threaten to blur his crisp, focused style, but Morey has turned in a classic vintage, and each cuvée perfectly reflects its terroir. Chassagne 1er cru Morgeot, further down the slope, has more sun and more clay, and produces bolder wine that’s no less charming. Morey’s cuvée is a blend of two plots in the Morgeot sector, and it’s exceptional in 2022. Jasper Morris awarded 94-96 points and 5/5 stars, calling it “spectacular.” He writes “the bouquet indicates a wealth of fruit to come, and so it does, in several waves across the palate. This has layers of fruit waiting to develop over many years to come.”
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The Domaine des Varoilles is named for the Clos des Varoilles, a huge 6-hectare…
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The Domaine des Varoilles is named for the Clos des Varoilles, a huge 6-hectare premier cru monopole located among the best premier crus in Gevrey-Chambertin. Historical documents reference its initial planting in the 12th century, and it’s from this vineyard that today’s wine comes. The terroirs of Gevrey-Chambertin produce the meatiest and most intense red wines in all of Burgundy. The Varoilles winemaking style is toward richness and density, and when married to their exceptional terroir, results in wines of impressive intensity. The 2014 Varoilles is exceptional, with inky notes of plum, earth, cassis, and a hint of sauvage. Allen Meadows (Burghound) found it “velvety” and “super rich” with a “firm, serious, and powerful finish,” and awarded 92 points.
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After four years in the barrel, this wine has smoothed and mellowed out a…
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After four years in the barrel, this wine has smoothed and mellowed out a bit. Its youthful brightness has given way to a gorgeous, patinated texture. Michel Gros’s wines are always perfectly clean, but even for him this is sleek and polished. Look for a nose of dried roses, violets, and leather, with inky cassis and baked raspberries in the mouth. The Wine Spectator awarded 92 points, finding “fine harmony and balance,” with “excellent length.” We think this wine has a promising future but it’s simply delightful today.
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