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Thomas Morey is as much a part of Chassagne as the bell tower or…
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Thomas Morey is as much a part of Chassagne as the bell tower or the fields of vines — his family has lived in the village since 1643. Morey’s style is one of understatement. He picks early, oaks sparingly, and crafts Chassagne cuvées of tension and purity rather than opulence and showiness.
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At the Domaine Michel Gros, 2020 brings another stellar lineup of beautiful red Burgundies…
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At the Domaine Michel Gros, 2020 brings another stellar lineup of beautiful red Burgundies, very much in the style of the superb 2019s. The 2020 growing season in the Côte de Nuits was much like 2019: hot, sunny, dry, and very early. The Chambolle-Musigny (more than half of which comes from “Argillieres,” a lieu dit that adjoins the great Grand Cru vineyard Le Musigny) always matures at a rate more like a premier cru than a village; and 2020 will be no different. The blend of fruit and oak seem just right — Burghound found “notes of cassis and poached plum with those of violet, spice and a whiff of warm earth” — and the wine should be excellent for many years.
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Most years the domaine makes two Grand Cru reds from Corton, one from the…
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Most years the domaine makes two Grand Cru reds from Corton, one from the “Bressandes” vineyard and one from “Mourottes;” but in 2020 quantities were low enough that Vincent blended them into a single Corton Grand Cru. As he described it, the wine combines “the heat of Bressandes with the freshness of Corton.” It is indeed a big wine, very dense with fine-grained tannins, and will need some patience to realize its potential. When it is ready, though, it is sure to offer a very impressive glass. Look for dark cassis notes with plum and gingerbread. We doubt Vincent will go back to combining these two Grand Cru plots once he has the volume, but it’s an awfully nice combination.
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Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among the brightest names in the humble…
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Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle are among the brightest names in the humble town of Auxey-Duresses, and a favorite of Vinous writer Neal Martin. Martin characterizes them as an “old-school producer” with “premier crus worth hunting down, as they represent good value.” Prunier’s finest wine is from Volnay’s finest vineyard, the premier cru “Caillerets.” The nose is dark and brooding, full of ripe cassis and toast. The mouth is classic Volnay, silky and elegant, but with an extra dose of muscle this year. Martin gave 90-92, finding “fine tannins, fresh and vibrant,” and remarking it “should age well in bottle.”
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Tunnel’s Cornas “Vin Noir” is made from three special parcels of old vines, and…
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Tunnel’s Cornas “Vin Noir” is made from three special parcels of old vines, and spends 14 months in old-oak barrels. Dunnuck found the 2021 “even better,” calling it “clearly a candidate for the wine of the appellation.” He found “blackberries, smoked herbs, cured meats, iron and spice,” calling it a “beautifully concentrated, balanced Cornas,” with “velvety tannins,” and concluding simply, “Bravo.”
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"Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis…
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"Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons." – Jasper Morris, on Gautheron's 2022s One of the seven Grand Crus of Chablis, Preuses is known for its intense floral and mineral character. Gautheron's is deep and brilliant, with Grand Cru richness cut by classical Chablisien stones. Morris found it, "spicy behind and now with some much richer fruit, certainly fresh apricots, and a start of peaches. Very juicy and delicious."
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