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This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie Bohrmann, a domaine in Meursault whose…
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This is our fifth vintage buying from Sofie Bohrmann, a domaine in Meursault whose wines we discovered in a Beaune restaurant. Her wines are quietly brilliant, many hailing from well-known vineyards in St-Aubin, Puligny and Meursault. Her 2022 white Burgundies are terrific – low in alcohol, full of ripe fruit and excellent freshness, with terrific concentration and appealing textures. Puligny’s calling card is a chiseled angularity that sets it up well for aging; but this wine has enough premier cru level richness to merit early drinking. The stony concentration in this wine is extraordinary – chalk and savory white pepper mix with with notes of apple crisp and gardenia. This is high class white Burgundy, and one that would be hard to top in a lineup of its peers.
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They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in 1550, and nearly five centuries later…
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They began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny back in 1550, and nearly five centuries later they’re still farming many of the same soils. The most recent generation has upgraded the facilities and the focus, and their wines have begun to gain substantial critical interest. Fuées, along with Amoureuses, is the most celebrated of Chambolle’s premier crus. The 2019 vintage will need some time to develop, but all the elements of a great vintage are there: deep intensity, good supporting acidity, and supple tannins. Vinous’s Neal Martin predicted a score of 91-93. He praised its “fine length” and found a “refined bouquet that displays good terroir expression, touches of sous-bois and black truffle filtering through the red berry fruit.”
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Gros farms small plots of vines across the tiny appellation, and today’s offer is…
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Gros farms small plots of vines across the tiny appellation, and today’s offer is for one of our favorites: the premier cru “Aux Brûlées.” Located just 10 feet from the famous “Richebourg” Grand Cru, this vineyard turns out extraordinary wine year in and year out. Vinous: "well defined black cherry, violet petal and iodine bouquet that feels nicely integrated with the wood. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, gentle grip and a slightly toasted finish. Certainly this is one of Gros’s better wines in 2017."
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Jacqueline André’s grandfather decided in 1963 that chemicals were not good for his old…
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Jacqueline André’s grandfather decided in 1963 that chemicals were not good for his old vines, so he stopped using them then and there. The domaine has been certified organic since 1980 (the first in the appellation), and the vines Jaqueline’s grandfather left her have reached 140 years old. The 2017 red offers a beautifully expressive nose of plum/raspberry fruit, smoke, and pan drippings. It fills the mouth but is neither hot nor heavy; there’s plenty of support but the structure is beautifully knit together. This wine will be delicious in its early years when the fruit dominates, and it will be equally delicious as it evolves over the years to show notes of leather, licorice, and forest floor.
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their…
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual. This wine is very much a Puligny, giving up a bit of Chassagne’s weight for a racy elegance. The fruit and floral notes are carefully channeled across a long, very intense palate. It will need some time to develop, but its dry freshness should soften just as the floral notes in the nose begin to assert themselves and the white peach and lemon fruit melt together.
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The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in 1550; for centuries, like many Burgundy…
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The Boursots began making wine in Chambolle-Musigny in 1550; for centuries, like many Burgundy domaines, they sold their entire production each year to the negociants of Beaune. Today it’s brothers Romauld and Romaric making the wines as the 15th generation of Boursots. Vinous’s Neal Martin describes Boursot’s wines as “superb,” “excellent,” “very fine,” and “worth seeking out.” Their 2020 Fuées is a big wine in a big year, with lots of material and much intensity. It offers excellent balance between power and the finesse for which Chambolle is known; if you’re looking for a Chambolle to lay down, this is a great choice. Martin found it “velvety smooth with impressive depth.”
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The 2021s from Gros are an unmitigated triumph, and even more impressive given the…
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The 2021s from Gros are an unmitigated triumph, and even more impressive given the difficult vintage. Abundant rain and a cooler summer produced wines with less concentration than the last few scorching hot years – a welcome relief from the chewy, syrah-like Pinots of recent memory. Across the board Gros’s 2021s are elegant, refined, and middle weight, with subtly extracted tannins and beautiful length. Their lighter touch has meant they’re more charming young than we expected. Drawn mostly from a plot abutting Musigny Grand Cru, this overperforms it’s village-level billing by a mile. Neal Martin of Vinous found “an enticing nose with pressed violet and iris,” with “supple tannins, velvety smooth, and fine depth.” This always a top cuvée at Gros and the 2021 is no different. It’s elegant and classy, full of tension, precision, and the domaine’s signature smoky polish. We think the 2021s will age a decade with ease, but it’s already a tremendous glass of red Burgundy today.
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Thanksgiving Whites
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Thanksgiving Reds
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Thanksgiving Bubbles
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