Author: Thomas Wilcox

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Dry, Alsatian Sparkling: the Perfect Aperitif.

Contested.  Alsace is a land of beautiful contradictions. Wedged between France and Germany, this charming region changed hands four times between 1918 and 1945. Its inhabitants tend to identify as Alsatian rather than either French or German, and today Alsace incorporates the best traditions – cultural, culinary, oenological – of both nations.

We’ve spent the summer telling you about Francis Murés red, whites (Riesling and blend), and rosé — all dry and crisp and perfect for warm weather. Today we’re releasing Muré’s excellent sparkling wine — a crémant d’Alsace. Made by the traditional method, this is 100% Pinot Blanc and aged on the lees for two years. It’s the perfect way to start a meal.

 

Cassis.  Muré’s Crémant d’Alsace is bright and dry but has more fruit than most crémant we offer from Burgundy. The gentle mousse of bubbles lends a refreshing energy to an exuberant, fruit-forward palate. We suggest welcoming guests to the next dinner party in your backyard with a glass of this, perhaps with a splash of crème de cassis to make a kir. (Look for our exciting new cassis producer in September Futures.)

For a more specific pairing, find a triple cream cheese – Delice de Bourgogne, Brillat-Savarin, or even St. André. Let the cheese come to room temperature and slather a generous portion onto a piece of crusty fresh bread. The combination of tiny bubbles and creamy cheese makes for a sensation of harmonious contrast, much like the region from which it comes.

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MURÉ Crémant d’Alsace NV
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case: $17.95/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Guillotines and Gevrey-Chambertin: 142 Years of Red Burgundy.

Vineyard plots in Burgundy often bear the names of nearby historic features, many long since vanished. In Meursault, Ormeau and Genevrières are named for the “elm” and “juniper” trees that once stood there. Vide Bourse in Chassagne refers to its location at a dangerous road crossing known for “empty purses.” And the famous grand cru Chambertin was once the “field” (champ) of a man named Bertin.

The Domaine Bourée’s Gevrey-Chambertin monopole “Clos de la Justice” has an even richer history. The land where the Clos now stands was once the town execution spot, where “justice” was meted out by guillotine or gallows. Since the land was acquired in 1874 by the current winemakers’ great great grandfather, it has seen a less violent and more productive existence.

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The Clos de la Justice is a village level Gevrey-Chambertin, but could easily be mistaken for a fancier wine. Robert Parker describes it as “at least Premier Cru quality,” and we’ve found it far more elegant and complex than other village level Gevrey. Bourée is an old school producer, using little oak and whole clusters — their wines show bold, muscular flavors dressed in smooth, elegant robes.

Today the Clos de la Justice 2011 is extraordinarily expressive — the nose shows a collection of dark, stewed fruits, dried cranberries, toast, cloves, and baked apple. The mouth is surprisingly smooth, with a softened palate that remains long and tense. This is more refined and less juicy than their 2010 Pommard that we released last week, but the domaine’s time-tested elegance shines through in both.

We’re not sure what the first few vintages of the Clos de la Justice tasted like, or whether there was any overlap of use; but after 142 years, the family has perfected the recipe.

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BOURÉE Gevrey “Clos de la Justice” 2011
Ansonia Retail: $78
quarter-case: $64/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   3-   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Dark, Refreshing, Balanced Syrah for the Summer.

Dark and Bright.  Most wine with dark, inky color is heavy and rich; and most light colored wines are also light in body. But these rules don’t always apply. In the Northern Rhône Valley winemakers grow Syrah at its northern limit, producing reds with intense, dark flavor, but balanced lively mouth feel.

The appellation Saint-Joseph occupies most of the region between Côte Rôtie in the north and Hermitage in the south. Saint-Joseph produces dense, dark syrah like its famous neighbors, but with a touch less extraction and an earlier drinking window. And, while some Côte Rôtie and Hermitage can exceed $250/bottle at release, there’s value to be found in Saint Joseph.

Balance.  Denis Basset is a young winemaker based in Crozes-Hermitage, recently listed by Decanter and the Guide Hachette in describing a dynamic new generation of Crozes-Hermitage winemakers. His plot in Saint-Joseph covers only an acre, and bears the name Abimes de l’Enfer (the “Abyss of Hell”) for its vertiginous slope.

Basset’s 2014 Saint-Joseph is already beautiful. The nose shows spices, violets and intense black pepper; the mouth shows blackberry jam with notes of roasted meat and licorice. This intense wine clocks in at only 13% alcohol, so while it’s mouthfilling and chewy, there’s not a bit of heaviness.

This should age nicely, but from a ripe year like 2014 it’s already drinking well. Decant for a half hour to allow the array of dark spices — anise, cloves, tobacco — to melt into the cool rustic fruit. Serve this alongside a roasted spring lamb with rosemary and mint, or something smoky from the grill.

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SAINT CLAIR Saint-Joseph 2014
Ansonia Retail: $32
case, half-case: $26/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Inky Rhône Red: Violets, Black Pepper, and Cherries.

Stewards.  From a distance, it’s easy to forget that our winemakers are farmers before anything else. Viticultural matters occupy the majority of their days, and it’s impressive to step back and remember that the delicate, polished creations in a bottle spring from capricious plants on hillsides of dirt.

Last month Nicolas Haeni took us up into the hills behind Séguret to show us “Malmont,” plot of terraced, west-facing vines. The floraison had just begun, and the smell of wild herbs and new flowers wafted up as we strolled between the rows.

Nicolas is as passionate as any young winemaker we know, and his bursting, healthy vines are a testament to the work that goes into pesticide-free farming. With no staff or team of workers, Nicolas does it all himself; he knows every inch of his vineyard like the back of his hand.

Plum and Toast. The Malmont wines are as much the product of Nicolas’s passion and energy as they are of the land. These wines are some of the purest and most complete expressions of Southern Rhône terroir we know. We tasted his 2015s in barrel in June, which are young and ripe and tannic — we expect them to be exceptional, but to require a bit of time (see this November’s Futures).

In the meantime, we’re pleased to report that Nicolas’s Séguret 2014 is just delicious these days. An extra year in the bottle has rounded it out nicely — the nose shows violets and dark burnt cherries, with black pepper and a hint of toast. In the mouth there’s ripe, pleasant, juicy tannin, with notes of plum and blackberry.

From a tiny plot of vines on a steep hillside, and a garage-sized winery attached to his house, Nicolas Hanei produces vibrant, complex, extraordinary wines. We could go on, but a glass of the wine will speak best.

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MALMONT Séguret 2014
Ansonia Retail: $30
case, half-case: $25/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Mixed Case: Refreshing Wines for the Summer Heat

Hot weather makes wine pairing tricky. Our main criteria for summer wines are threefold: low alcohol, good acidity, and chillable. White wine is the obvious choice, but we enjoy serving a few of our reds cool from time to time. The best of these are what the French call vins de soif — wines for thirst.

So we’ve collected four crisp, refreshing wines that you can enjoy even when temperatures push up towards 100. Two are white — bright, crisp, and minerally; and two are red — dry, fruit-forward, and refreshing. These aren’t wines to sit with and contemplate — they’re well made but uncomplicated. Serve them in a big bucket of ice on a beach or a roof deck.

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Muré Pinot Noir 2014
Francis Muré’s Pinot Noir is all about exuberant, Alsatian fruit — look for cherries, wildflowers and honey in this floral wine with a cool, refreshing mouthfeel.

Juliénas Prestige 2013
This Beaujolais from Juliénas is far more interesting than its nouveau cousin — but it retains Beaujolais’s signature joie de vivre. Look for notes of cranberry and stones.

Gautheron Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2014
Cyril Gautheron’s old-vine Chablis is bright, crisp, and vibrant. It’s pure chardonnay, with notes of lemon rind and mango alongside brisk, stony acidity.

Martin-Luneau Muscadet “Gorges” 2010
This Muscadet from the Loire Valley is the quintessential French summertime white. Look for melon and stones in the nose; drink this by the ocean and match the saline air with the aromas from your glass.


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MIXED CASE:

REFRESHING WINES FOR THE SUMMER HEAT

3x   MURÉ Pinot Noir 14:   $22
3x   JULIÉNAS Prestige 13:   $24
3x   GAUTHERON Chablis Vieilles Vignes 14:   $26
3x   M-LUNEAU Muscadet “Gorges” 10:   $24

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Ansonia Retail: $288
mixed case price: $235/case

free East Coast shipping   |   save $53

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Chianti Classico for your Summer Table. $22

Pomodori. July is here and tomatoes are finally back in season. Whether cooked and tossed with pasta and parmesan, or sliced raw and served with mozzarella, olive oil, and crunchy salt, they’re a staple of summer chez nous. (Or, rather, a casa.)

But tomatoes — and in particular, tomato sauce — presents a wine-pairing puzzle. Whites are often shouted down, and many French reds clash with the already acidic sauce. We find the best solution is a wine from the same tradition — our Italian source is the Fattoria Poggerino, an organic producer of pure, delicious Sangiovese in the hills of Chianti.

Roses and smoke. Jancis Robinson called Poggerino’s 2012 Chianti Classico “mouthfilling yet poised,” and “savory yet perfumed,” with “wonderful balance.” We found their signature roasted cherries and smoke in the nose, with chocolate, beef, and rose petals in the mouth. The mouthfeel is sturdy and dense, with young but juicy tannins and lots of energy.

The exceptional balance that impressed Jancis Robinson makes this wine easy to pair. Marcella Hazan’s three ingredient tomato sauce is as perfect as it is simple — it’s a frequent visitor to our kitchen, and an excellent match with Poggerino.

Or on a warm, muggy evening, make yourself a caprese salad — remember to let the mozzarella warm up a bit out of the fridge — and sit outside with a glass of Chianti. The Italian banks may need a bit of work, but their food-wine pairings are just about perfection.

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POGGERINO Chianti Classico 2012
Ansonia Retail: $26
case, half-case: $22/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Perfectly Aged, 5-Year-Old Pommard

Legendary.  In France, Pommard has a reputation as a vin de garde (wine to cellar). Grown in clay- and limestone-rich soils, the wines are full of muscle, richness, and spice. A favorite of Thomas Jefferson, Pommard has made classic, well-respected red wines since at least the middle ages.

Today Pommard’s requirement of cellaring is less absolute, but the finest examples still benefit from some bottle ageing. We’re excited to introduce a new wine today: the 2010 Pommard from Pierre Bourée. The Domaine Bourée makes wines that are meant to age, and then conveniently ages them for us — this 2010 left Bourée’s cellar for the first time this spring.

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Muscle.  The Domaine Bourée’s style is that of a time gone by. Their old school approach to winemaking — no destemming, ambient yeasts, long soaking and maceration — results in a fuller, more robust style. Combine this with Pommard’s density and power, and you get rich, mouthfilling wine that nonetheless retains its Burgundian elegance.

For lovers of dense red Burgundy (or for those, like us, with a particular affection for the 2010 vintage), this is a wine not to miss. The nose is immediately expressive, with notes of cassis, cloves, and toast. The mouth is rich and tense, with notes of wild cherries, mouth-filling tannins, and a long, surprisingly smooth finish.

Pair this with a fancy steak frites: use this cold-oil french fries recipe (warning: this dish may change your life), and pick a flavorful cut of beef. This dense, beautiful, 5 year old Pommard will be right at home.

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BOURÉE Pommard 2010
Ansonia Retail: $78
quarter-case: $64/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   3-   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Silky, Elegant, Premier Cru Red Burgundy.

Juicy.  On most maps, Santenay is the last town in Burgundy’s famous Côte d’Or. Forever second fiddle to its famous neighbor Chassagne-Montrachet to the north, Santenay nonetheless produces excellent wines. With neither the staying power nor the tannic structure of wines from Chassagne, they are often far easier to enjoy young.

A case in point is Roger Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Beauregard” rouge from 2013. Belland is known as one of the finest sources in the village — Clives Coates calls their wines “individual and stylish.” Belland’s reds are punchy and ripe, with tannins that are round and juicy. The 2013 Beauregard is a lively summertime red Burgundy that won’t break the bank.

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Crackling. Roger Belland and his daughter Julie are the 5th and 6th generations of winemakers in their domaine. They have used no herbicides for more than 20 years, and their wines are careful, pure expressions of their origin. Their 2014s are available in our current Futures issue, but the few 2013s remaining in our warehouse are drinking beautifully now.

The 2013 Beauregard rouge is more elegant than most Santenay. The nose is intense and bright, with red fruit and stony earth accompanied by spring flowers. The mouth is concentrated and long, with excellent balance and a clean, silky mouthfeel. Pour this at a dinner party with steaks, or on its own with light hors d’oeuvres. It’s proof that red Burgundy doesn’t have to be expensive to be excellent.

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BELLAND Santenay 1er cru 2013
Ansonia Retail: $40
case, half-case: $34/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Mixed Case: White Burgundy Under $30

Chardonnay inhabits nearly every corner of the wine world, but nowhere does it reach the same expression as in Burgundy. The gently sloping hillsides of Burgundy are uniquely suited to growing perfectly balanced Chardonnay — sunny enough to ripen grapes fully, but northern enough to retain enough acidity to provide lively freshness.

We’ve put together a collection of four white Burgundies and set the price under $30 per bottle. Two are premier crus from Chablis, and two are from the Côte d’Or — one from the northern end, and a Premier Cru from the southern end. There’s no wrong time to drink white Burgundy, but a cool glass on a sweltering July day may be the most right.

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Collet Chablis 1er cru 2013
Jean Collet is a well known family domaine in the heart of Chablis, where they make pure, classic Chablis. Their Premier Cru Forets is rich and ripe, with notes of pear and straw, crisp minerality, refreshing acidity, and a careful use of oak.

Thomas St-Aubin 1er cru 2014
Gérard Thomas and his daughters make excellent wine from their hometown of St-Aubin, a source for some of Burgundy’s greatest values. Their 1er cru St-Aubin is an exquisitely balanced white Burgundy with notes of lemon peel, toast, wild honey, and almond.

Gros Hautes-Côtes de Nuits blanc 2013
Michel Gros is best known for his classic red Burgundies from Vosne Romanée. But he also makes an excellent white from the hills to the west of his domaine. This is round and full with notes of hazelnut and baked lemon, and in 2013 comes with exceptional balance.

Gautheron Chablis 1er cru Vaucoupin 2014
Cyril Gautheron is among the rising stars in Chablis. His wines are made from pure, unoaked Chardonnay at its most elemental. His premier cru Chablis is full and elegant — there’s classic Chablis minerality behind the dense, rich core of Chardonnay fruit.


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MIXED CASE:

WHITE BURGUNDY UNDER $30

3x   COLLET Chablis 1er cru 13:   $34
3x   THOMAS St-Aubin 1er cru 14:   $40
3x   GROS Hautes-Côtes de Nuits blanc 13:   $36
3x   GAUTHERON Chablis 1er cru 14:   $30

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Ansonia Retail: $420
mixed case price: $325/case

(free East Coast shipping)   |   save $95

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70-Year-Old Vines in Gevrey-Chambertin

Muscle.  Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest appellation of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. And because of its clay rich soils, its wines are of a similarly grand scale. Known for power and longevity, Gevrey-Chambertin often shows dark, intense fruit and a sturdy tannic structure.

Gérard Quivy’s vines in his tiny two-acre En Champs vineyard date to around 1945, or just after VE Day. The yield from these vines has dropped significantly in the decades since, but the quality of their fruit has improved each year. Quivy’s style is silkiness and elegance, which harmonizes well with Gevrey’s typical muscular fruit.

 

Cinnamon.  This year’s Guide Hachette, the premier French language wine guide, describes Quivy as “undoubtedly one of the reference points in the appellation.” This helps confirm what our noses told us last summer — Quivy is an uncommon and exceptional find.

The 2012 En Champs is beautifully expressive in the nose: notes of charcoal, toast, and graham cracker join dense jammy red fruit. In the mouth it is typically Gevrey: plenty of ripe tannin alongside pleasant young briary fruit. As with Quivy’s other village level Gevrey “Journaux,” additional patience will be rewarded, but isn’t required — today this is handsome, crisp young Burgundy in unusually elegant dress.

Decant this for an hour or more, serve near room temperature, and pair with skirt steaks.

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QUIVY Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs” 2012
Ansonia Retail: $50
quarter-case: $42/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   3-   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Classic Puligny-Montrachet: Pear, Lemon, and Stone

Royauté. “Puligny-Montrachet is the greatest white wine commune on earth.” Thus begins the chapter on the town in Clive Coates’s seminal tome on Burgundy. The tiny appellation covers less than a single square mile, and though neighbored on either side by the legendary towns of Meursault and Chassagne, many consider Puligny the source for the world’s finest white wine.

What makes Puligny-Montrachet so special? On the ground, it’s a combination of soil content (limestone, clay, and other minerals), slope, and exposition. In the glass, it’s a white Burgundy with added structure, more tension, and a beautiful, angular elegance. As Coates puts it, “Puligny is where Burgundian Chardonnay is at its most complete.”

Elegance.  We visited Vincent Boyer last month to taste at his cellar, and it was a reminder just how exceptional his wines are. Most of Boyer’s vines are in Meursault, but his wine from the small plot in Puligny-Montrachet “Reuchaux” is as elegant and vibrant as his others. The 2013 Reuchaux shows pear and lemon peel, with classic, steely Puligny minerality. This is a precise, elegant chardonnay with its subtle oak meticulously integrated.

Puligny famously ages well, and this should weather the next 5 years with grace. But it’s already fleshing out nicely, and when combined with Puligny’s signature stoniness, it’s a perfect accompaniment to a range of classic food-pairings — roast chicken, fish in beurre blanc, etc. Vincent himself counsels serving scallops with this wine. We think the match would be excellent, and we offer one of our favorite recipes as a suggestion.

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BOYER-MARTENOT Puligny-Montrachet “Reuchaux” 2013
Ansonia Retail: $66
quarter-case: $54/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   3-   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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New Everyday Cabernet. $15

Well-traveled.  Cabernet Sauvignon is the world’s most widely planted grape. It’s grown everywhere — from Bordeaux to Brazil to British Columbia — and comes in a wide variety of textures and expressions. Cabernet Sauvignon is a cross, likely spontaneous, between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon blanc — a gift from the winemaking gods.

Today’s Cabernet is unlike any we’ve ever had. Grown in the rugged Ardèche region of central southern France, the “Cab” from the Domaine des Accoles is dark, juicy, and earthy. Accoles commitment to biodynamic farming and natural winemaking is clear in this complex wine. It’s distinctly Cabernet, but it’s just as distinctly Accoles.

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Blackcurrants. Accoles is the project of Olivier Leriche, who brings a Burgundian elegance to his wines, including old-vine grenache, syrah, and carignan. Leriche, late of Burgundy’s famous Domaine de l’Arlot, established the Domaine des Accoles a few years ago. His first few vintages have been met with much acclaim, and his wines appear in restaurants by Michael Mina and Daniel Boulud, among others.

“Cab des Acolytes” is distinctive and delicious. Olivier has blended a touch of Grenache into the wine to soften the mouthfeel, but the wine does not lack for character or complexity. Notes of earthy, wild blackcurrants dominate, and the palate is juicy, rich, and exuberant. At 12.5% alcohol it’s dark but perfectly balanced, making it well suited for hot weather. Olivier recommends charcuterie and sheep-milk cheeses as a pairing.

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ACCOLES Cab’ des Acolytes 2014
Ansonia Retail: $20
case, half-case: $15/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Crisp, Bone-Dry Alsatian Riesling for the Summer Heat.

Dry.  Francis Muré’s Alsatian Riesling has long been one of our most popular wines. We’ve used this wine to cure dozens of tasters of their “Riesling fear” — it’s bone-dry, crisp, and as refreshing as a Sancerre or Chablis. There’s plenty of sweet, heavy, uninteresting Riesling around, but after one taste of this and you’ll want to reexamine the grape.

Francis Muré makes delicious wines is his Alsatian hill town of Westhalten. The charming narrow streets are lined with flower boxes, and when Muré steals away from his vines or his cellar it’s to make his own delicious duck confit or smoke his own local brook trout. He’s an artisan in every way, and his wines are a perfect expression of their bucolic origin.

Fresh.  Muré’s Riesling is a perfect match for the summer heat. The nose is bright and floral, with notes of lime, mango, and spring flowers. The mouth is dry and crisp, with a wonderfully lively mouthfeel — there’s plenty of rich, mouthfilling fruit, balanced by a bright line of citrus and minerals.

We drink Muré’s Riesling year round — it pairs beautifully with Asian cuisine, particularly those with a bit of spice. But in the summer, it’s almost a necessity. For a cocktail party or outdoor barbecue, there’s little more refreshing than a chilled glass of this Riesling. Just don’t tell your guests what grape it is until they’ve tried it.

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MURÉ Riesling 2014
Ansonia Retail: $20
case, half-case: $15.95/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.