Author: Thomas Wilcox

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Punchy, Delicious Old-Vine Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. $22

If a good Pouily-Fumé bursts from the glass with energy and life, winemaker Frederic Michot is a perfect embodiment of his wines. He talks and drives fast, and sports the same no-nonsense attitude found in a glass of his Pouilly-Fumé: pure Sauvignon blanc, no oak, clean and crisp.

Michot’s side of the river may be less famous than his neighbor Sancerre, but he isn’t willing to concede it any advantage. His wines are exceptional Sauvignon blancs, full of precision, focus, clean dry fruit, and beautiful tension. Sancerre deserves its fame and acclaim; but Pouilly-Fumé is its scrappy underdog cousin, with just as much to offer, and at a better price.

Michot’s Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes is refreshing, unoaked, mouthfilling and utterly delicious. His 2020 old vine cuvée is terrific – we served it at a large family party last month to universal acclaim. Michot combines a ripe, sunny vintage with bursting tension underneath the gorgeous fruit. There’s lots of inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc around — most of it isn’t half this good.

The nose shows mango, grapefruit rind, and straw; the mouth shows ripe grapefruit, lime rind, and honey. The wine is at once mouthfilling and electric, with the persistence of richness and freshness found in finest Sancerre.

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Michot Pouilly-Fumé VV 2020
bottle price: $22

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Superb New 2019 Premier Cru from Saint-Aubin’s Best Vineyard

The changing climate has caused dramatic shifts amid the tiny microclimates of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. In a region where a few meters makes the difference between four-figure Grand Cru and $60 village, a couple degrees of warmer weather can have profound effect. And as with the rest of the world, there are winners and losers in this new reality.

Among the undisputed winners is the side valley of St-Aubin. With some of the highest elevation vines in the Côte d’Or, this appellation once on the margins of ripeness is increasingly right in the middle. We imagine vignerons roasting in August on the flat plains of Chassagne and Puligny might gaze longingly at the breezy St-Aubin vineyards a few hundred meters up the slope.

We’ve long loved the terroirs of St-Aubin, and are pleased to see them increasingly receiving their due – even if it’s meant they’re scarcer and pricier. We have several producers who farm here; our most recent addition is the Domaine Bohrmann.

Bohrmann’s style is low oak, pure fruit, and exquisitely balanced texture: richness, depth and energy all at once. Raised in only 15% new oak for a year, their St-Aubin 1er cru comes from “En Remilly,” considered one of the town’s top vineyards.

This wine is lively and generous at the same time: thick and full of a rippling intensity, combining perfectly ripe golden fruit with structure and minerality. There’s precision capable of enhancing your most refined dishes — sole meuniere, for example. The use of oak is perfect: support for the minerals and fruit, but without too much spice or toast.

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Bohrmann St-Aubin 1er “En Remilly” 2019
bottle price: $59

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“Quintessential” 2019 Grand Cru Red Burgundy

We like to talk about wines that are just off the beaten path. Particularly in Burgundy, the best values can be lesser known wines just a few meters from the famous vineyards. But in most instances, famous vineyards are famous for a reason.

And such is the case with the Clos de la Roche, a Grand Cru vineyard in Burgundy’s Morey-St-Denis. Named for the elevated bedrock beneath a shallow layer of soil, Clos de la Roche is Morey’s largest and best known vineyard. Jasper Morris describes it as “quintessential Morey,” finding a “slight aromatic wildness” with “sinews, structure, and density.”

Our friends at the Domaine Amiot in Morey-St-Denis produce truly delicious wines at all levels – their terrific (and increasingly scarce) premier crus are among the best-value Burgundies in our cellar. But it’s no mystery why their Clos de la Roche is at the top of their price.

Amiot is the fourth largest landholder in Clos de la Roche, behind Ponsot, Dujac and Rousseau. A bottle of Clos de la Roche from these three illustrious domaines will set you back $500-$850 on release, and a good deal more at auction. And while we’re not claiming Amiot’s would win blind next to those, we think their $195 bottle offers terrific value.

A superb vintage like 2019 is a good one for buying Grand Cru, even if that’s not your usual neighborhood. The Clos de la Roche 2019 is big and dense, with extraordinary length on the palate. There is dark, sweet fruit and great density, so it’s not for drinking for a few years. But Burghound thought it “one of the best recent vintages that I have seen for this wine,” one that “should amply reward extended keeping.”

If you’ve got a Burgundy lover on your Christmas list, this would make quite the splash.

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Amiot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2019
bottle price: $195

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“Excellent” New Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru from 2019

Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet produce the world’s finest dry white wines. In production for nearly two thousand years, the vineyards surrounding these villages produce wines of different characters — Puligny a bit more serious, Chassagne a bit friendlier.

Today’s suggestion comes from Roger Belland, a fifth generation Burgundian winemaker. Belland’s style is intensity without harshness – his wines of both colors are welcoming and smooth. But given time they often surprise with their complexity. Today we’re suggesting Belland’s flagship wine: the monopole Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru “Clos Pitois” blanc from 2019.

First planted in 1421, the “Clos Pitois” is a monopole of the Belland family. Owning an entire vineyard is rare in Burgundy, and the Bellands treat it like a member of the family. Located in the clay-rich “Morgeot” sector of the appellation, the 2019 blanc is classic Chassagne — rich, mouthfilling, and gorgeous, pulsating with lively golden fruit.

As with the best of Belland’s whites, this combines an intense richness with linear focus. There is more minerality and stoniness mixed in with the fruit here, and the nose includes floral notes of white peach flower. This white wine is focused and serious, and while approachable young, should amply reward cellaring.

Jasper Morris MW agreed, awarding 93 points and finding “really significant weight to this, and in balance,” concluding “substantial and very long.” Burghound called it “outstanding,” finding “excellent volume to the dense and solidly powerful flavors that exhibit very good length on the bitter lemon-inflected finale.” Whether enjoyed young or old, this wine is unlikely to disappoint.

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Belland Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru
“Clos Pitois” blanc 2019
bottle price: $88

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Terrific Small-Batch Grower Champagne under $50

Since its early days Champagne has been synonymous with glamor and marketing. It can be easy to lose track of quality and distinctiveness amid the glossy promotional haze. But Pascal Bardoux, our tiny grower Champagne producer, cuts through the fluff. His tasting room is his small untidy office, where we taste slowly and thoughtfully from an old beat-up leather sofa.

And his wines, humble and delicious, are comparative bargains. Much mass-market Champagne that gets to the US fetches between $75 and $100 a bottle; Bardoux’s small-batch Brut Traditionnel doesn’t even crack $50 — twice the wine at half the price.

We like to enjoy Champagne year round – it’s a perfect food pairing, and adds a bit of cheer to any situation. But at the end of every year it goes from a tasty treat to a necessity.

Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and an excellent entrypoint to the collection. A blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this wine has the complexity and depth to match the finest bottles from Burgundy or Bordeaux. The nose shows plum, chalk, lime zest, and buttered biscuits; the mouth is dry, elegant, and smooth, with notes of apple and toast.

We can’t recommend this wine highly enough. Think of it as a refined, complex wine in its own right; it just happens to feature bubbles. (Skipping the crowds this year? A $5 stopper goes a long way.) Some of our favorite pairings include: sushi, triple-cream cheese (like Delice de Bourgogne or Brillat-Savarin), or gougères. Or just a crackling fireplace and Bing on the speakers.

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Bardoux Champagne Traditionnel NV
bottle price: $49

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Elegant, Delicious New 2019 Bourgogne rouge. $34

We’re big fans of Sofie Bohrmann’s white wines. Her vines in Meursualt, Puligny, and St-Aubin produce some of the purest and most well balanced white Burgundies in our cellar. Each is masterfully oaked, and each shows its terroir with clarity and precision. And her Bourgogne blanc is among the best in the business.

Indeed, we enjoy Bohrmann’s whites so much we often forget she even makes a red. But as today’s wine shows, she’s a skillful craftsman in both colors. Her 2019 Bourgogne rouge is continued proof of just how far this magical vintage has stretched.

Borhmann’s Bourgogne vines are across the RN-74 from Pommard. At 35 years old, they’re more mature than many Bourgogne-level vines, and their fruit produces a wine of real complexity. She uses 70% whole clusters, giving the wines excellent definition and exquisite tension.

The nose shows seductive, crushed ripe red fruits, overlaid with a soft floral character. The mouth is perfectly ripe, smooth, and delicious, with fine chalky tannin supporting the bursting fruit. The 2019s possess an extraordinary balance of fruit, tension, and texture — some cuvées are destined for future greatness, but this one requires no patience.

This is everything you want from an everyday Bourgogne rouge. Nobody you serve it to will know the domaine, but after a sip or two they won’t care.

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Bohrmann Bourgogne rouge 2019
bottle price: $34

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Three Vintages of Extraordinary Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Transition to organics/biodynamics may be trendy in winemaking today, but it’s nothing new at the Domaine Pierre André in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Jacqueline André’s grandfather stopped using chemicals in his vines in 1963, and the domaine has been certified organic since 1980 – the first in the appellation.

As it turns out, he was on to something — those vines are now 140 years old, and continue to produce every year. Today Jacqueline André and her son craft the fruit of these ancient “grand dammes” (as they call them) into a single magnificent wine. No luxury batch or cuvée speciale here — just one red, outstanding year in and year out.

As winter approaches we tend to shift back to our “cozy wine” category – reds with mouthfilling textures, dark inky fruit, and long, layered finishes. So today we’re suggesting Jacqueline André’s magnificent Châteauneuf, the very definition of coziness. We have three vintages available, and are adding a trio (one of each) that ships for free for your last minute gift giving needs.

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André Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2018
Decanter writer Matt Walls listed André’s 2018 among the top wines in the region, along with Châteauneufs from Beaucastel and Clos des Papes. Awarding 95 points, Matt Walls writes “it’s remarkably vibrant on the palate, with tingling sandy tannins. Round and generous with good acidity and gorgeous freshness.” It shows beautiful essence of strawberries in the nose, with excellent density and a long, silky finish. Delicately crafted tannins support the perfectly ripe fruit, without a hint of overripeness or bitterness.
bottle price: $59

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André Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017
The 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape red offers a beautifully expressive nose of plum/raspberry fruit, smoke, and pan drippings. It fills the mouth but is neither hot nor heavy; there’s plenty of support but the structure is beautifully knit together. This wine will be delicious in its early years when the fruit dominates, and it will be equally delicious as it evolves over the years to show notes of leather, licorice, and forest floor.
bottle price: $58

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André Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016
From a near-perfect vintage in the southern Rhône, this is the most serious cuvée of the three – it’s beautifully structured, and beginning to shed its “baby fat.” Though it’s lush, intense, and enormous, it achieves it all without becoming flat or dry. Look for notes of plum, licorice, dried black spices and tapenade in the nose — the mouth is dense and extremely long, with bold flavors of cherry jam and wood bolstered by rich, voluptuous tannins.
bottle price: $58

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CDP Vertical Trio
One bottle of each vintage, free East Coast shipping
bottle price: $165

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Two Magnificent New Clos de Vougeot Grand Crus

The Clos de Vougeot is one of Burgundy’s great landmarks. First planted with vines in the 11th century, the wall around the vineyard dates to 1336, and the majestic Chateau to 1551. It’s a Burgundian icon, both of culture and viticulture.

With more than 80 owners across an astounding 50 hectares (120 acres) of vines, the wines from the Clos de Vougeot vary widely in character and quality. We’re pleased to offer, for the first time ever, two wines from this historic and iconic Grand Cru. Each is distinct, but both offer superb, honest expressions of this famous vineyard.

Michel Gros Clos de Vougeot 2017
Michel Gros is among our most talented and best known winemakers. His two tenths of a hectare in the Clos represent just 0.4% of the vineyard – but if you had to pick a corner of Clos Vougeot for your couple rows of vines, Gros’s plot is where you’d pick. The “Grand Maupertuis” is considered one of the finest “neighborhoods” in the massive vineyard, and Michel’s tiny sliver of land here produces magnificent wine.

The 2017 vintage is offering beautiful early drinking – Gros’s village 2017s are magnificent today – and we think even the Clos Vougeot, typically Gros’s longest lived wine, will not require the decade of patience it often does. Writer Sarah Marsh MW calls it “layered and powerful” with “no lack of structure…nicely refined and compact.” Give this another 3-5 years and enjoy a delicious slice of history.

bottle price: $225

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Couvent Clos de Vougeot 2019
In comparison, the Domaine du Couvent’s Clos de Vougeot parcel is relatively huge – indeed only eight growers own more land. Couvent, a reinvention of Domaine des Varoilles, is an exciting addition to our portfolio, and their Clos de Vougeot is a terrific start. Winemaker Philippe Cheron draws from 75-year-old vines for his plot, which is just south of Michel Gros’s.

The 2019 Clos de Vougeot from Couvent is tightly coiled and beautifully balanced. Vinous’s Neal Martin scored it 92-94, praising its “attractive nose of brambly red berry fruit, morels and tobacco, nicely focused and showing good intensity,” and calling it “a superb Clos Vougeot.” Inside Burgundy’s Jasper Morris awarded it 93-95: “This is surprisingly easy-going at the front end then a little touch of acidity and more structure behind, providing the typically robust Clos Vougeot experience.”

bottle price: $225

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Refined New $24 Northern Rhône Syrah: “A Return to Classicism”

Praise continues to pour in for the Domaine Patrick & Christophe Bonnefond. Their Northern Rhône reds are pure syrah, and display an exquisite balance of texture, fruit, subtlety and depth. The wines continue to improve each year — Josh Raynolds of Vinous declared his tasting this year “the single most impressive set of bottlings I have had here.”

Bonnefond’s just-arrived 2019 Côte Rôties and Condrieus are magnificent — they’re not cheap, but we think they’re worth every penny. We had to buy Bonnefond’s 2020 Syrah before tasting it this year (something we very rarely do), but on Christophe’s word we bought it anyway, assuming a continuation of his recent spectacular vintages.

Syrah grown in most of the world is bold, rich, smooth and voluminous. In the Northern Rhône the grape takes on a different style: lower alcohol, less mouthfilling, more spice, more energy. Recent scorching summers have blurred this style a bit, but 2020 was a welcome return to normal. Decanter writes of “A reliably fresh, balanced and approachable vintage – a return to classicism.”

Christophe was right about his 2020 Syrah – it’s lighter weight than recent years, but arguably even finer. The nose is spice forward, with black pepper, nutmeg and rosemary – the black fruit is there but taking a back seat to the savory elements. The mouth is gorgeous and refined, with refreshing tension and lovely intensity – it’s perfectly extracted, leaving not an ounce of harshness. Pretty and precise instead of ponderous.

For 2020 at least, the blurring lines between Northern Rhône Syrah and “global” Syrah have snapped into focus – there’s only once place this wine could be made.

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Bonnefond Syrah 2020
bottle price: $24

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Honey, Flowers, and Green Tea: New Crozes-Hermitage Blanc. $25

Denis Basset is best known for his rich pure Syrahs from Crozes-Hermitage. They’re delicious, well priced, and pulsing with energy and life. For years our only look at his lone white cuvée was in his barrel room – just a splash “to set the palate” before moving on to the reds. The white was always lovely — floral and fresh, beautifully expressive, and a perfect way to start a tasting.

But it was so popular in Parisian restaurants that it was years before he offered us any; now we thirstily buy all of our small allocation each year. It’s the only wine of its kind in our portfolio – rounder and more tropical than white Burgundy; more tension than Condrieu; more softness than our Loire whites. An usual and charming aperitif white.

Denis Basset runs the Domaine Saint-Clair, which he started several years ago after spending the first decade of his working life in the family’s flower business. He has rapidly gained confidence and acclaim; both Decanter and the Guide Hachette have listed him in a dynamic new generation of Crozes-Hermitage winemakers.

Basset’s white is a Rousanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), in the style of a classic northern Rhône. The nose is soft and enveloping, with tropical notes of mango, pineapple, and green tea. The mouth is rich and round, but well balanced, showing nectarine and honey notes. There’s so much exotic fruit in the nose you almost expect this to be sweet, but the mouth finishes cool and soft and dry.

This is a perfect winter white wine, with bright citrus to match rich foods, but a cozy, mouthcoating softness that makes it hard to put down. Serve some with a salty triple cream cheese and crusty bread.

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Saint-Clair Crozes-Hermitage blanc 2020
bottle price: $25

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Floral, Pitch-Perfect Puligny-Montrachet: No Patience Required

Puligny-Montrachet is generally considered the finest white wine town in Burgundy – and thus, by most accounts, the world. It’s where Chardonnay reaches its highest expression – at once intense, elegant, chiseled, floral, and subtle. Puligny is less opulent and mouthfilling than its two famous neighbors, Chassagne and Meursault – its elevated water table and high mineral content make the wines more linear and reserved.

This usually means Puligny requires (and rewards) patient cellaring, and indeed Puligny is often the last white Burgundy in a vintage to drink well. But today’s wine is an exception – Bohrmann’s 2019 “Grands Champs” is the most drinkable young Puligny we’ve ever had.

The nose is classic Puligny-Montrachet: intense and dry with a gorgeous, delicate floral overlay. Notes of lemon peel and stones meld with faint herbs and chalk. But the mouth you’d be mistaken for guessing Meursault. The classic Puligny tension and angularity is there, but with an unusually concentrated roundness and sucrocité.

We expect this will be delicious for several years, but for once patience is not required. It’s a chance to taste Puligny with a bit of that youthful edge taken off. Whether it’s more a generous Puligny or a tension-filled Meursault is up to you – either way it’s a surprise and a delight today.

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Bohrmann Puligny-Montrachet 2019
bottle price: $75

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Inky, Concentrated, Vibrant New Northern Rhône Syrah. $22

Denis Basset is a charming, energetic, fast talking young winemaker with a knack for channeling his terroir. His organic cuvées from Crozes-Hermitage are popular in Parisian restaurants, and it’s easy to see why — they’re balanced, honest, refreshing, and tremendous values.

Basset is located in Crozes-Hermitage, near the southern end of the Northern Rhône Valley. Forever in the shadow – literally and figuratively – of the great hill of Hermitage, its pure-sryah cuvées offer earlier drinking windows and far friendlier pricetags.

Denis’s wine gets better every year, and his just-arrived 2019 is a knockout. The name “Etincelle” (sparks) refers to his near-electrocution a decade ago, an accident that caused him to quit his job and pursue his dream of winemaking.

Basset’s 2019 Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” is at once dark and soaring. From a hot year, there’s very dense and intense fruit laid over a sinewy structure of blackberry jam and spice. But the mouthfeel is also balanced, vibrant, and delicious. A weeknight red with far more pluck than $22 usually gets you.

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Saint-Clair Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” 2019
bottle price: $22

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Lush, “Brilliant” New White Burgundy from Maconnais

When we lived near Cluny in Burgundy more than twenty years ago, we stumbled upon a nearby producer in Viré-Clessé. The young couple who owned it tended their vineyards and made their wine according to organic and biodynamic principles – not at all the norm back then – and their work opened our eyes to the quality possible in the Maconnais.

We bought this wine enthusiastically for many years on behalf of friends and family, but the domaine already had a national US importer, and so we never sought to give their wine a wider distribution. We stopped importing the wine a decade ago, but have missed it ever since.

But we are delighted that we are now able to offer the results of this superb winemaking under a new label: “Forces Telluriques.”

In recent years the domaine has won praise from today’s top writers. The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley writes of the wine’s “remarkable concentration and energy.” Jasper Morris MW calls them “brilliant… refined, pure, complex, lush.”

The 2018 Forces Tellurique Viré-Clessé features clean, pure, lemony fruit, along with remarkable freshness and energy from such a sunny vintage. On the palate it’s unctuous and smooth with a long finish that would outlast many a Meursault. The nose bursts with yellow orchard fruit and notes of tangerine and honey. Reviewing the 2018 under its primary label, Kelley awarded 93 points, finding notes of “honeycomb, orange oil, and elderflowers,” calling it “layered and succulent… with a charming core of fruit and a saline finish.”

We’ve just received our first shipment in nearly a decade, and it’s like welcoming long lost friends back home – from a new vintage and in new clothes, but the same charming spirit.

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Forces Telluriques Viré-Clessé 2018
bottle price: $42

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A Terrific Trio: Exquisite 2015 Red Burgundies from Michel Gros

The 2015 vintage enjoys mythic status in Burgundy – the year when everything went right. One winemaker told us he purchased a sorting table in 2015 to remove imperfect grapes, but he didn’t even bother setting it up until the following year. It’s considered among the top vintages in a generation. Everyone made good wine in 2015 — and the greatest winemakers’ results were extraordinary.

The 2015s from Michel Gros are everything you’d expect. Ideal ripeness, sleek and elegant shape, and perfect balance between fruit, earth, and wood. We’ve just brought in our last few cases of three village cuvées from Gros from our offsite storage – they’ve got a long life ahead of them, but we’ve decided to hand off the maturity decision to you.

They’re available as individual bottles, or as a 3-pack with free shipping. For the Burgundy lover on your Christmas List, these might be the best gift they receive this year.

 

Michel Gros Nuits-St-Georges Chaliots 2015
In the glass it’s meaty and dense, showing licorice, smoke, and a bit of game. The mouth is long and rich, with a silky woodsiness overlying the dark cherry fruit. Given a half hour in a carafe or decanter, this wine will transport you to the Burgundy of centuries ago.
$75/bot

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Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 2015
The nose shows violets and dried roses, redcurrants and a bit of spice. The mouth is intense and lively but smoothed, with silky ripe tannins in perfect balance with the dark pinot noir fruit. Open one today and you’ll be seriously impressed; open one in five years, and you’ll understand.
$85/bot

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Michel Gros Chambolle-Musigny 2015
Look for notes of plum, licorice, cherry and stones; the mouth is dense and firm but with velvety texture and a clean, very precise finish. Burghound calls this wine “elegant” and “utterly delicious,” noting its “lovely minerality and energy,” and concluding “this is an excellent Chambolle villages.”
$85/bot

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Michel Gros 2015 Trio
One of each wine, free shipping
$245/bot

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Gorgeous New Meursault-Like 2019 Bourgogne blanc

Well-priced white Burgundy is getting harder to find. Demand is up, supply is (way) down, and the wines themselves just keep getting better. As prices at the high end reach to stratospheric levels and more consumers focus on entry level cuvées, it’s become trickier to find that weeknight Bourgogne blanc.

But there are still bargains to be found. A few years ago we stumbled across the Domaine Bohrmann on a wine list in a Beaune restaurant. Formed in 2002 with just 1.5 hectares of vines, they have no other importers, zero critical reviews, and a (very) hard-to-reach winemaker.

Sofie Borhmann is a Belgian winemaker, splitting her time between Belgium and Burgundy. We’re not sure where she’s been hiding, or why no other American importers have found her, but her wines continue to over-deliver their billing. Her 2019s have just arrived in the warehouse, and we’re thrilled to release the first of them today.

Bohrmann is a master of careful oaking. Her terrific cuvées from Meursault, Puligny, and St-Aubin channel each town’s terroir with honesty and precision – just enough wood to support the wine, but not enough to get in the way.

Borhmann’s Bourgogne blanc comes from 40 year old vines, giving the wine an intense, distilled mouthfeel and excellent length. The 2019 is an extraordinarily complex wine for its level. The nose is smooth, elegant, floral, and concentrated, with more than a passing resemblance to Meursault. The mouth is cool, impressively long, and vibrant — ripe and ready to drink immediately.

Like the wildly popular 2018 (sold out six months ago), this is among the most impressive regional-level Bourgogne blancs we’ve tasted in years, and we’re excited to have it in stock. We bought as much as we could, but after one taste you’ll understand why this won’t be around for long.

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Bohrmann Bourgogne blanc 2019
bottle price: $34

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