Author: Thomas Wilcox
“Terrific Power:” 2014 Grand Cru White Burgundy, 93 points
At last. After a string of difficult years between 2010 and 2013, Burgundy collectors are rejoicing. Two magnificent vintages — 2014 in whites, and 2015 in reds — are being heralded as some of the finest in decades. The 2015 reds are just coming to market (see our current January Futures), but today we’re releasing a gem from 2014.
The Domaine Collet’s star has risen since young winemaker Romain took over a few years ago. Today’s wine is the family’s finest — the Grand Cru “Valmur.” Grand Cru white Burgundy can run quickly past $100 a bottle, and often costs several times that. But Chablis is still a source for value in white Burgundy, and today’s offer is a perfect example.
This is the highest rung of white Burgundy, from a spectacular vintage. It’s still not quite an everyday price, but if you’ve ever wondered what Grand Cru tastes like, here’s a great chance.
Intense. Collet’s 2014 Grand Cru Valmur is massive. Romain has expertly balanced Chablis’s signature minerality with a richness and intensity that calls to mind Corton-Charlemagne or Montrachet. Allen Meadows (Burghound), who renewed reviewing Collet recently after he perceived an improvement in quality, awarded 93 points, finding the 2014 Valmur “beautifully persistent,” with “large-scaled flavors” and “terrific power.”
This is exceptionally powerful wine. The nose shows gardenia, green tea, and baked lemon flavors, with a bright chalky stoniness that enhances the fruit. The mouth is simply packed with flavor — it’s bold and rich, but vibrant in texture. It should match beautifully with seafood and shellfish, particularly in butter or cream; but for now it’s almost meal in itself.
This will develop beautifully for several years — indeed well-aged Chablis can be a complex gustatory delight. But pour some into a glass today — we recommend a large Burgundy balloon to let it develop — and with one sniff you’ll understand what all the fuss is about.
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COLLET Chablis Grand Cru “Valmur” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $70
quarter-case price: $59/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 3- 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Saturday Recipe: Boeuf Bourguignon
The World’s Finest Pinot Noir: “Supremely Elegant” Vosne-Romanée
History. Michel Gros is as much a part of Vosne-Romanée as the pointed steeple, the ancient vineyards, and the narrow crooked streets. He is a lifelong resident of the town, as were his father and grandfather before him — his mother was even mayor. The Gros family name has been synonymous with Vosne-Romanee for centuries.
Their most famous vineyard is the premier cru monopole “Clos des Réas,” the only one in the appellation. It is a magnificent property, stretching over 2 hectares, and turning out wines described by critics as “supremely elegant,” “opulent” and “genius.” It has long been a favorite of ours, and we’ve recently acquired a few cases of the excellent 2012.
For Burgundian grace and prestige, there’s not a whole lot that matches this wine.
Magnificent. The 2012 vintage was extremely small in Burgundy. A cold, wet spring led to reduced yields, resulting in very concentrated wines. Most wine writers anticipate long lives for these dense, concentrated wines, but we’ve found they’ve already begun to show their colors. Particularly with an hour in a decanter and beside a choice cut of meat, the 2012s just sing these days.
Allen Meadows (Burghound) found the 2012 Réas had “exceptionally good richness…that completely coats the palate,” a result of the low-yield, dense vintage. He called it an “opulent effort,” predicting it would be “approachable young if desired.” And though he noted Michel’s usually modesty on the subject of his own wines, Meadows called the 2012s “among the best I have seen from him.”
Réas is the wine we get out for special occasions in our family. It’s elegant, luxurious, and perfectly balanced — everything you want from a top red Burgundy. It’s not exactly at weeknight pricing, but special moments call for special wines. We think it’s healthy to have at least a handful of special occasions each year; and whatever that means for you, Réas will provide a perfect companion.
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GROS Vosne-Romanée 1er cru “Clos des Réas” 2012
Ansonia Retail: $130
2-bottle price: $115/bot
half-case price: $105/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 2- AND 6- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Video Update: January 17, 2017
The Only Côtes-du-Rhône You Need. $12.95
Ubiquitous. For a universally crowd-pleasing red, it’s hard to beat Côtes du Rhône. Guests with New World leanings will appreciate the richness and full flavor. Those with Old World inclinations will appreciate the balance and traditional style. (Your great aunt who likes drugstore merlot might turn up her nose, but you weren’t going to please her anyway.)
This year, the simplest Côtes du Rhône in our lineup might also be one of the best. The Domaine les Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône is always pleasant and refreshing — with dark fruit, juicy tannins, and a clean finish. But in 2015, a year when a very warm summer produced exceptional ripeness, it’s unusually rich and smooth.
We’d guess most readers would be thrilled with this wine at $20/bot — it’s rich and clean and velvety, with far more energy than most reds at your local store. At under $13 per bottle, it might be the only Côtes du Rhône you need.
Rules. Our criteria for good Côtes du Rhône are threefold: inexpensive, dark, and balanced. Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône hits all three points. It’s low in alcohol, which keeps it fresh and lively on the palate. The blend of six grapes — Terret Noir, Picpoul, and Vaccarèse join the familiar Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan — forms a rich, hearty, dark wine. And finally, a Côtes du Rhône should be inexpensive enough to pull out at a moment’s notice: at $13/bot, this is a wine to enjoy without planning.
This is a great by-the-glass wine for your kitchen, something to enjoy during the preparation and enjoyment of a meal. The 2015 is very expressive, showing dark wild cherries, raspberries, and licorice. The mouth is both jammy and refreshing, with notes of white pepper, minerals, and plums. Serve this with anything from hamburgers to our favorite pasta: oil, garlic, red pepper flakes, and ample grated parmesan.
Keep a few of these around for when you don’t know what else to serve. Your guests won’t believe what you paid for it.
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GOUBERT Côtes-du-Rhône 2015
Ansonia Retail: $15
case, half-case: $12.95/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Crisp, Dry, and Elegant: a New Generation of Muscadet. $19
Saltair. Perched where the Loire river meets the windswept Atlantic coast, Muscadet has long been a source for a classic, dry white wine. Served by the carafe in the oyster bars of Paris and London for decades, it’s refreshing, abundant, and inexpensive — a perfect glass to wash down a plate of crustaceans.
In the last few years Muscadet has undergone a reinvention of sorts with the elevation of three of the region’s best towns to a new “Cru Communal” status. Today’s wine comes from one of these three leaders in the new wave of Muscadet. Combining excellent terroir with extended years on the lees, this is an unusually complex take on a classic.
Maritime. Martin-Luneau is a fourth generation family domaine farming old vines on the plains south of Nantes. Their 2012 Muscadet “Clisson” is the best wine we’ve imported yet from them — a marriage of the brisk, refreshing essence of the sea, with the delicate herbal and fruit flavors of western France. This is not your grandfather’s Muscadet — it’s a new generation’s take on a classic French staple.
The nose of the 2012 Clisson is clean and pure, showing dried flowers, melons, and lemon. The mouth is smooth and very dry, with notes of stones, salt air, and apple skins. Oysters are the longstanding pairing of choice with Muscadet, and the thick savoriness in this wine is an exceptional foil for the fresh brineyness of an oyster.
The winemakers themselves recommend serving this with a simple moules marinières, made with shallots, parsley, thyme, butter and, of course, Muscadet. As you might expect, the match is magnificent.
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MARTIN-LUNEAU Muscadet “Clisson” 2012
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case: $19/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
January Futures has been released.
New Weeknight Red Burgundy: Dense, Exuberant Pinot Noir. $25
Rugged. Burgundy is best known for its wines of refinement and elegance. The delicate, often ethereal Pinot Noirs from towns like Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny are known the world around for their beauty and uniqueness. But there’s a whole other world of red Burgundy south of the Côte d’Or.
The red Burgundies of the Côte Chalonnaise are less serious and less expensive, but no less Burgundian. They capture the region’s friendly, welcoming spirit, trading elegance for rusticity, and polish for vigor. Today’s wine, a 2014 Givry 1er cru, perfectly embodies this amiable side of Pinot Noir.
Tasty. The Domaine Desvignes is a small, family-run operation in the heart of Givry. Twenty-something winemaker Gautier Desvignes has recently taken over, and the wines improve each year. The 2014 Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé” is charming, combining the a bit of the exuberance of neighboring Beaujolais with the refinement of northern Pinot Noir.
After a half-hour in a decanter this wine is hard to put down. The nose shows dark plum jam and beautiful complexity — look for pan drippings, mushrooms, and earth. The mouth is lively and smooth, with great density, and a long, clean, cherry compote finish.
If you’re a fan of red Burgundy and like to drink Chambolle every night, give us a call — we can help. But for everyone else, we submit this as a delicious and affordable weeknight red Burgundy.
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DESVIGNES Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $30
case, half-case: $25/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Mixed Case: Cold Weather Reds
When temperatures plunge and frigid winds whip around our house, we like to fill our glasses with something rich and mouthfilling. For us that means wines made from Grenache, Syrah, and others from the Rhône Valley. These are cozy wines from the sunbaked climes of France’s south — reds with depth and intensity, though carefully balanced to avoid heaviness.
So today we’ve put together a mixed case of Cold Weather Reds. These are either pure Grenache, pure Syrah, or a blend of the two. They average about $22/bot, so should lend themselves nicely to weeknight enjoyment. Pair them with stews and hearty pastas, or a book, an armchair, and a blanket.
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MAUCOIL Cuvée 1895 2014
This 100% Grenache cuvée comes from vines planted over 120 years ago, just outside Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s rich, smooth, and generous, with notes of wild cherries and licorice.
GOUBERT Beaumes-de-Venise 2015
This is a Grenache-Syrah-Cinsault blend, from a master of Southern Rhône winemaking. Look for dark, earthy notes, strawberry jam, herb honey, and a beautiful, weathered mouthfeel.
MALMONT Seguret 2015
Malmont’s Greanche-Syrah blend is very long and rich, with the concentration and structure found in much fancier wines. Look for lavender, cassis, black pepper, and raspberry jam.
SAINT CLAIR Crozes-Hermitage 2014
This is a pure Syrah wine from the southern end of the Northern Rhône. There’s savory black fruit and bacon in the nose; the mouth is vibrant and dark, with notes of violets and blackberries.
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COLD WEATHER REDS
3x MAUCOIL “Cuvée 1895” 2014: $30
3x GOUBERT Beaumes-de-Venise 2015: $22
3x MALMONT Séguret 2015: $30
3x SAINT CLAIR Crozes-Hermitage 2014: $28
Ansonia Retail: $330
offer price: $265/case
free East Coast shipping | save $65
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Advance Order: “Overperforming” 2012 Red Burgundy, 40% off
Thatch and tweed. If Vosne-Romanée is the paragon of Burgundian sophistication, then neighbor Nuits-St-Georges has the humbler charm of a country gentleman. Spread across five miles of varied terroir, the wines of Nuits-St-Georges range from spiced and elegant to meaty and rich. But most consider “classic” Nuits to come from the section south of town, which contains the “les Saint Georges” vineyard.
Today’s wine is from Michel Gros, a master winemaker based in nearby Vosne-Romanée. His Nuits-St-Georges “les Chaliots” comes from south of the village, just a hundred yards from the famous “Saint Georges.” It’s quintessential Nuits-St-Georges, with the signature richness and sturdiness found in the heart of the appellation.
We’ve managed to secure the last few cases of the excellent 2012 NSG Chaliots still in Gros’s cellar. We’ll be bringing it in with the January Futures (to be released next Sunday), but we’re opening up the bidding early; if there’s any left by Sunday we’ll include it in the Futures brochure.
Exquisite. Pinot Noir from Burgundy may not be known for its boldness, but this is not a wine that’s easy to forget. In 2012, an extremely low-yield vintage made for wines of unusual depth and concentration. This wine has Gros’s signature style, with an enticing, silky bouquet of redcurrants and licorice. In the mouth it’s meaty and dense, showing cassis, toast, plum, and a bit of game.
Jancis Robinson listed Gros as one of five “overperforming” red Burgundy producers in 2012. Burghound (Allen Meadows) called the 2012 Chaliots “complex, balanced, and lingering,” finding a “velvety mouthfeel” and “fine volume.” With four years in the bottle, this has begun to drink extraordinarily well, but it will improve over another 3-4 years in the cellar, if you can keep your hands off it.
Today, given a half hour in a carafe or decanter, this wine will transport you to the Burgundy of centuries ago — think woven tapestries, roasted meats, and ancient stone chateaux. Speaking of roasted meats, this bottle matches perfectly with a steak — use a cast-iron skillet and finish it in the oven.
In short, this is a rare shot at exquisite red Burgundy, four years on from the harvest, with perfect cellaring and 40% off retail (thanks, Euro:Dollar). As always, orders are first come, first served.
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GROS Nuits-St-Georges “Chaliots” 2012
Ansonia Retail: $816/case
Futures Price: $495/case ($41.25/bot)
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AVAILABLE BY THE CASE AND HALF CASE
This is an advance order, part of the January Futures program, which will be released 1/15/17
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Saturday Recipe: Marcella’s Veal Stew with Sage
More Excellent 2014 White Burgundy. $26
Balance. The 2014 whites were a gift to Burgundian winemakers. Though quantities were somewhat low, the quality of the grapes was universally excellent. As Master of Wine Jasper Morris put it recently, “an all-round consistently beautiful vintage for whites… at all levels and across all the districts of Burgundy.”
It’s the exceptional balance we find most appealing in the 2014 white Burgundies — there’s a near-perfect ratio of richness and acidity. Even away from the famous three towns — Chassagne, Puligny, and Meursault — beautiful white Burgundy abounds. Today’s offer is from a quiet producer in a town you’ve likely never heard of; but if you like white Burgundy, we know you’ll like this too.
Under the radar. The charming and jovial Michel Prunier (pictured) makes uncomplicated, delicious wines from his Domaine in Auxey-Duresses. Together with his daughter Estelle, Prunier has built his domaine into what Clive Coates MW calls “certainly the best grower in the village.” Today we’re offering Prunier’s 2014 Chorey-les-Beaune “Clos Margot,” from just north of the city of Beaune.
The Clos Margot is lively and round — the nose is pretty and delicate, with white flowers and pear fruit. The mouth is smooth and mid-length, with far more complexity and depth than most everyday Burgundies. This is honest, vibrant, delicious white Burgundy at a weeknight price.
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PRUNIER Chorey-les-Beaune “Clos Margot” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $32
case, half-case: $26/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Smooth, Uncomplicated Côtes-du-Rhône. $14.95
Easy. Some wines we import are meant for grand occasions. These are the famous wines of Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne — bottles to pull from the back of the cellar when the moment is significant. Over the past few weeks we opened a few such bottles, enjoying the magical effect of time on a bottle of wine.
Today’s offer is not for that sort of wine. The Sablet from the Domaine les Goubert fits best in an unexceptional moment — something to reach for after a long day of work, or a cozy companion for that new season on Netflix. It hits a sweet spot between balance, versatility and price. This is a wine you don’t need to think hard about to enjoy.
By-the-glass. Goubert’s Sablet is the house red for many of our readers and friends. It’s a Côtes du Rhône Villages, a notch up from a simple Côtes du Rhône, and shows more stuffing and a noticeably smoother mouthfeel. The 2015 is particularly ripe and rich, showing dark raspberry fruits, hints of leather and spice, and a full but nicely balanced mouthfeel.
Food isn’t necessary with Sablet — it’s a perfect by-the-glass wine that drinks well right out of the bottle — yet it certainly won’t clash with something from the kitchen. We serve the Sablet with everything from spicy garlic pasta (cool the wine a bit before serving), to a hearty salad or a bowl of French Onion Soup with a crusty piece of bread.
Goubert’s Sablet won’t win prizes for profundity or longevity, but it’s among the most popular wines we’ve ever imported. Save the $200 Grand Crus for anniversaries or birthdays — Goubert’s Sablet will fit just about everywhere else.
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GOUBERT Sablet 2015
Ansonia Retail: $18
case, half-case: $14.95/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.