The Best Value in Burgundy.

We find some of our favorite values in towns just off the beaten path. The neighbor villages of Chassange-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are the world’s best known sources for fine white wine. But just two miles to the west lies the often-overlooked town of Saint-Aubin, which turns out to be an exceptional source for white Burgundy.

Crisp, Summery Sauvignon Blanc from Bordeaux. $18

The wines of Graves have been admired for nearly a thousand years. Located just south of the city of Bordeaux, Graves exploded as an international wine source in 1152 with Henry II’s marriage to Eleanor of Aquitaine. Kings from both regions abolished tariffs, and by 1225 English imports of French wine totaled 1.9 million cases annually (to a country of just over 2 million.)

Old-Vine Chablis: Minerality and Finesse. $22

When vines grow old, vignerons are faced with a choice. Older vines mean lower yields, which can squeeze a domaine’s bottom line. But old vines also produce more concentrated and better quality juice, leading to wines of depth and intensity. Though we understand both sides, we’re always pleased to find vignerons who sacrifice quantity for quality, and allow their vines to continue into old age.

New, Affordable, Everyday Red Burgundy. $24

The finest wines of Burgundy are expensive, scarce, and require cellaring. We’re always on the hunt for more affordable options from our favorite region — pinot noirs that show Burgundy’s elegance and earthiness without the lofty price tag. Bourgognes from Michel Gros and Pierre Amiot are delicious and affordable, but our allocations for these wines evaporate quickly each year, and there’s rarely any left over after Futures.

Mixed Case: Summertime Sampler

It may be spring for another month, but here in Boston it’s starting to feel more like summer. Warm weather can make wine pairing tricky — heat and alcohol rarely go well together, and a cold beer is sometimes the best fit. But when the moment or the meal calls for wine, we look for bottles with low alcohol, good freshness, and wines that are tasty chilled.

10-year-old Grand Cru Red Burgundy.

The perfect wine isn’t always the most expensive choice. Put a plate of just opened oysters in front of us, and we might rather pick a Muscadet over a Montrachet. Or consider a choucroute garnie (Alsatian sausage and sauerkraut) — so perfect is the marriage with an fine Alsatian Riesling, that Hermitage or Haut-Brion would seem out of place.

Granite and Wildflowers: Dry Grand Cru Riesling. (Plus, Auxerrois is back.)

There is no more underappreciated wine than Riesling. Many US consumers have sworn off the grape, having been burned by syrupy Rieslings with no life and too much sugar. But for lovers of dry wine, there’s enough bone-dry Riesling out there to make Riesling avoidance foolhardy. Tall skinny bottle + “Riesling” ≠ sweet.

Old-Vine Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. $18

The Loire Valley boasts France’s widest diversity of styles. The rosés are mostly crisp and bright, the sparkling wines dry and floral, and the whites range from dry to sweet and brisk to rich. The Loire’s main red grape is Cabernet Franc, better known for its important part in the wines of Bordeaux. In the Loire Valley it is most often unoaked and unblended, taking on a juicier starring role.