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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father…
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Pierre Gros (Michel's son) now steers this iconic estate in Vosne-Romanée, after his father ran it for 45 years. Neal Martin writes “I detect a change in tack rather than charting a totally different course.” Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and if his first few vintages at the helm are any indication, the future at Gros may be even brighter than the past. The cuvée blended from four Nuits plots on the other side of town more resembles Vosne-Romanée, its neighbor to the north. Here the fruit includes more floral notes and a hint of Vosne spice. It may need a bit of time for the elements to integrate, but as always it will end up as a classic, elegant red Burgundy of much finesse.
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Made from 100% pinot noir, this shines an attractive dark salmon in the glass…
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Made from 100% pinot noir, this shines an attractive dark salmon in the glass. The Robins allow some of the grapes to soak on the skins, and press others for clear juice; then they combine the lots and vinify together. The resulting wine is approachable, well-priced, and delightful. The nose shows strawberry, raspberry, lime zest, and cassis — indeed tasted blind we might have guessed it already a kir. The mouth is dry and beautifully textured, with clean fruit and just a shadow of tannin.
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Robin’s vintage cuvée is called Kimmerdigienne, a nod to the famous limestone in the…
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Robin’s vintage cuvée is called Kimmerdigienne, a nod to the famous limestone in the local soil. We bought their 2011 for three consecutive years, and it was a revelation to anyone who tried it. The 2012 has just arrived and is more than worthy successor, and from one of the top vintages in the last decade. The nose is a stunner, with notes of almonds, apricots, praline, and chalk. The mouth is delicious and complex, with notes of seashell, lemon zest, kiwi, brioche and vanilla. The 2012 has 6g dosage (vs 8 with the 2011), and is richer and bolder than last year’s – the mouthfeel is concentrated and chewy, and we think will impress just about anyone.
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Romain Collet’s finest wine is his Grand Cru Valmur, and it’s particularly good in…
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Romain Collet’s finest wine is his Grand Cru Valmur, and it’s particularly good in 2022. It’s the product of impressive terroir in a concentrated vintage, but Romain has expertly balanced Chablis’s signature minerality with the concentration. Neal Martin of Vinous gave 94 points citing “marine influence: oyster shell and a tang of seaweed.” He continues “the palate is well-balanced, with a keen thread of acidity…smooth in texture, almost creamy towards the finish, it contains plenty of energy.” Lots of Chablis has gotten richer in recent vintages, and some cuvées have fallen into the overoaking trap. But Valmur has always been big wine, with more than enough structure to handle barrel aging. The nose shows explosive and delicious, showing gardenia, green tea, and baked lemon flavors, with a bright chalky stoniness that enhances the fruit. The mouth is simply packed with flavor -- it’s bold and rich, but vibrant in texture. A grand wine for a grand occasion.
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The 2021 red Burgundies sport neither the concentration nor the ripeness of hot dry…
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The 2021 red Burgundies sport neither the concentration nor the ripeness of hot dry years like 2020 and 2022, but this means an opportunity for those without patience or a cellar. Now with a few years in the bottle, the vintage has begun to drink superbly. An excellent example is Pierre Gros’s 2021 Nuit-St-Georges “Les Chaliots,” a single vineyard pinot noir from the heart of the Nuits appellation. Gros’s style is finessed and elegant, all destemmed and with a long relaxing elevage – and it beautifully matches the shape of this featherweight vintage.
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The 2022 red Burgundies are quickly becoming one our favorite vintages. From the warmest…
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The 2022 red Burgundies are quickly becoming one our favorite vintages. From the warmest, driest year in recent memory, winemakers managed to coax vibrant and beautifully balanced, sporting low alcohol and classic Burgundian finesse. Philippe Cheron is an excellent winemaker farming 10 hectares around the Côte de Nuits -- limited oak, whole clusters where needed, sleek, modern, terroir-transparent, muscled Burgundies. The wine from the Clos du Couvent, the village-level Gevrey-Chambertin monopole from which the Domaine takes its name, is excellent in 2022. Jasper Morris MW found “clean raspberry-cherry fruit, medium bodied, rather stylish,” and Burghound praised its “pretty red and blue pinot fruit, soft spice, and prominent earth influence.”
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy – he has no…
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Arnaud Baillot is a bit of an anomaly in Burgundy – he has no family connection to wine or the region, and has only been making wine for six years. His wife Laure is of a storied Burgundian family (Hudelot-Noëllat), but they have short winemaking experience and almost zero reviews. And since a hidden gem is the perpetual pursuit of all importers, we squeezed an appointment in late in the afternoon of our final tasting day this spring -- we're certainly glad we did. Baillot’s 2022 Volnay is deep and floral with red fruits bursting from the glass alongside violets and cassis. It’s beautifully concentrated and perfectly defined, with a sleek, low-oak profile on the palate. Volnay is known for elegance, and this has it in spades, but there’s more concentration than we expected at the village level. This should age terrifically, but will be hard to keep your hands off in the coming year.  
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Thanksgiving Whites
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Thanksgiving Reds
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Thanksgiving Bubbles
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