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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of…
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Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond’s wines somehow keep getting better. They’ve enjoyed a string of excellent recent vintages in the vines, but they also seem to be hitting their stride in the cellar. Once firmly in the ripe, oaky, “extroverted” camp that made them a darling of Robert Parker, the domaine has shifted towards subtler expression in recent years: less time in oak, larger barrels, and earlier harvests. The Bonnefonds now achieve an extraordinary subtlety in their wines -- it’s still bold, brooding, inky-dark Northern Rhône Syrah, but somehow also with subtlety, grace, and lift. Condrieu is round and pleasant in the mouth, but really this wine is all about the aromatics. It is best enjoyed in a balloon glass like those for serving red Burgundy — and swirling in such a vessel produces gorgeous notes of ripe fruit: apricot, pineapple, white peach, and more. We think it’s best enjoyed as an apéritif.
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Grown elsewhere, Viognier can be heavy and flat -- in Condrieu, it reaches magnificence…
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Grown elsewhere, Viognier can be heavy and flat -- in Condrieu, it reaches magnificence. Condrieu is a tiny appellation -- just over half a square mile of vines. But it produces one of the world’s great white wines, as complex aromatically as it is elegant and mouthfilling on the palate. Bonnefond’s is a masterpiece, achieving soaring balance between minerals, fruit, freshness, aromas and texture. Notes range from gardenia, herb honey, apricot, green tea, and dried mango. The mouth is smooth and rich with notes of peach and pear, and a beautiful grape-skin briskness that balances the mouthcoating texture.
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Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc is simply delicious in 2023, with all the attributes…
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Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc is simply delicious in 2023, with all the attributes that make Burgundy a mecca for the world’s white wine lovers. The nose offers ripe yellow fruit and wood in good proportion, along with a hint of freshness. The mouth confirms this, where very good volume joins with just the right amount of energy to provide lift and cut, adding mouth-watering freshness to the ripe fruit and the accompanying touch of vanilla. This wine will be an excellent candidate for pairing with food, and should drink well from the outset. An awfully good impression of Chassagne-Montrachet, at half the cost.
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Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du Tunnel “among the top producers of…
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Vinous writer Josh Raynolds calls the Domaine du Tunnel “among the top producers of Cornas.” Star winemaker Stephane Robert farms an envious collection of old syrah vines around the tiny appellation, and his wines very much live up to the hype. Robert is humble and quiet in person, but his wines are bold, assertive, and utterly charming. Tunnel’s 2017 Cornas is a classic -- the warm year produced lots of ripeness, making it juicy and approachable today. But there’s plenty of Cornas’s traditional sturdy foundation. Vinous and Wine Advocate both awarded 92 points, finding it “loaded with blackberries, cassis and plums,” with “very good depth as well as energy” alongside “supple tannins.”
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their…
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Roger and Julie Belland are 5th and 6th generation growers in Santenay -- their wines are perennial favorites among our readers, offering early drinking and friendly pricetags. Belland’s are always delicious and precocious, but in 2020 they’re even better than usual. Clos Pitois rouge 2020 is classic Côte de Beaune red Burgundy, dense and finely textured – pretty rather than bold. Burghound praised its nose as “fresh and bright,” with a “pretty essence of red and dark berries, pepper and earth,” all “trimmed in … menthol.” He thought it “firm enough to reward up to a decade of cellaring.”
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