Author: Thomas Wilcox

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Inky, Smooth $24 Red Burgundy: Licorice, Peony & Plum

Winemaker:  The Perrachon family has made wine in Juliénas since the 1870s. Perrachon makes the most complex and sophisticated Beaujolais reds we’ve had. Raised carefully in oak barrels, their pure Gamay wines compete with entry level Burgundy Pinots on complexity and value.

Appellation:  Today’s wine comes from Juliénas, an appellation known for its serious, intense wines. Perrachon’s gamay vines here are nearly 80 years old, and their low yields produce wines of inky depth and richness. Made from south facing vines and raised in large 500L barrels, this is as serious as Beaujolais gets.

Wine:  As with most 2017 reds from Burgundy, this is really delicious already. The nose is dark and very serious, with notes of licorice, plums, spice, peony and woods. The mouth is smooth, dark, and polished without a hint of ruggedness and a long, refined finish.

Serving:  Drink this on its own at the end of a weekday when you can’t stare at Zoom any more. Or pair with a takeout pizza. Or both.

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Perrachon Juliénas “Clos des Chers” 2017
bottle price: $24

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Refreshing, Bone-Dry Alsatian Riesling: the Perfect Summer White. $22

Dry Riesling is the perfect hot weather wine. It’s refreshing, affordable, fruit-forward, low alcohol, full of brisk minerality and crunchy orchard fruit. It’s also the ideal food wine, for everything from a fine dish of fish from the grill, or a simple picnic of appetizers on the front stoop.

Our favorite source for dry Riesling is Alsace, where the zippy acidity pairs with beautiful, soft orchard fruit. Our source here is the Domaine Gross, were winemaker Vincent Gross practices biodynamic viticulture, and produces truly exciting wines.

Gross’s 2018 Riesling shows lemon, mineral, lime, and honeysuckle in the nose. In the mouth the attack is rich and mouthfilling, followed by a chiseled beam of acidity and minerals. Look for notes of herbal honey, green apple, coriander and pear.

Pair with takeout sushi on a night when it’s too hot to fire up your kitchen. You’ll be hard pressed to find a better food-wine under $25.

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Gross Riesling 2018
bottle price: $22

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Sleek, Delicious 5-Year-Old Red Bordeaux. $25

Winemaker:  Lafont-Menaut is the second property from the owners of the prestigious Chateau Carbonnieux, a legendary Graves estate. The Perrins farm their less famous terroirs with the same care as Carbonnieux, and the Lafont-Menaut rouge is among the most consistent wines we import.

Appellation:  Pessac-Leognan is home to sandy, gravel-filled soils. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon thrive in this stony soil, ripening beautifully in a year like 2015, but retaining freshness and balance from the well-drained earth.

Wine:  The 2015 Lafont-Menaut is a smooth, bold, drink-now red Bordeaux. It’s an inky Merlot-Cabernet blend with deep flavors and a fresh palate.. Decanter’s Jane Anson called the 2015 “lovely” with a “gentle floral-edged minerality.” We found it chocolaty and chalky, with notes of dried roses, plums, toast, earth, and spice.

Serving:  No decanting necessary — this is smooth and velvety right out of the gate. Serve with grilled steak or chicken thighs.

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Lafont-Menaut Pessac-Leognan rouge 2015
bottle price: $25

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Crisp, Refreshing New Sparkling Rosé. $22

Winemaker: Picamelot is among Burgundy’s finest crémant houses. The Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert William Kelley writes that “Picamelot produces some of the best sparkling wines in Burgundy,” and calls their wines “elegant,” “excellent,” and “superb.”

Wine: Picamelot’s dry rosé is 100% Pinot Noir, and made using the traditional method from Champagne: fermentation in tank, bottling, dosing with sugar and yeast, second fermentation, then disgorging. The rosé spends a year on lees before disgorgement, and gains a delicious creamy texture.

Tasting Notes: A lovely nose that balances fruit and floral notes, with strawberry, herbs and lemon. The mouth is perfectly dry, with great freshness alongside a gentle creamy mousse of bubbles.

Serving: Serve chilled but not too cold; use a white wine glass. Pair with Asian dishes or creamy cheese on crackers.

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Picamelot Crémant Rosé NV
bottle price: $22

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Vibrant 2019 Sancerre: Pear, Grapefruit, and Stones

Sancerre has no premier or grand cru classifications — all 6400 acres are under the same appellation. But, as you might expect, not all of Sancerre’s terroirs are created equal. Among the most famous is the steep slopes of the Monts Damnées (damned mountains).

The Domaine de la Garenne, our Sancerre source, farms a special plot along the same slope as Mont Damnées called “Les Bouffants.” It’s a single, limestone-heavy terroir which Garenne vinifies and bottles separately. The slope isn’t quite as steep as its famous neighbor, but it’s awfully close.

Garenne’s regular Sancerre is delightful — fruit forward, dry and refreshing. Their “Bouffants” cuvée is another level of impressive.

Made from pure, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, Bouffants is more dense and serious than Garenne’s regular cuvée. The 2019 is round, concentrated and very long, full of deep mineral intensity and dried fruit. Look for notes of pears and grapefruits, with a long, clean, very dry finish. Think of the ripe fruitiness of a classic Sauvignon combined with the stony core of a Cru Muscadet.

Bouffants is a perfect food wine and can stand up to a wide range of diverse flavors. As the summer warmth arrives this wine is as useful as a patio umbrella, and a good deal tastier. Sauvignon blanc seems to come from every corner of the world these days, but this will remind you: there’s nothing quite like Sancerre.

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Garenne Sancerre “Bouffants” 2019
bottle price: $28

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Magnificent Northern Rhône Syrah: New 92-95 point Côte Rôties

The Northern Rhône produces the world’s most complex and balanced expressions of Syrah. Particularly in Côte Rôtie, at the region’s northern limit, the wines combine inky, black, masculine fruit with extraordinary lift and finesse.

Our producer in Côte Rôtie is Christophe Bonnefond, who seems to make more impressive and well-balanced wines each year. Vinous’s Josh Raynolds writes, “a number of years ago Bonnefond made a conscious effort to dial back the ripeness that he was seeking in his vineyards. He also made the move to larger format barrels and smaller percentage of new oak. The result in 2017 is surprisingly accessible, perfumed wines that lean distinctly more towards elegance than brawn.”

We found Raynold’s characterization spot-on. Christophe somehow seems to coax more subtlety out of his vines with each passing year. His 2017s are magnificent — all three refined and vibrant. We’re excited to offer all three Côte Rôtie cuvées: their base cuvée Colline de Couzou, and their two top cuvées Côte Rozier and Les Rochains, both of which border the famous La Landonne vineyard.

 

Bonnefond Côte Rôtie 2017    ($58)
[Vinous 92] “black and blue fruits, licorice and succulent flowers, along with hints of cracked pepper and cola…sappy and energetic in style… supple tannins build on the finish, which clings with strong tenacity and resonating spiciness”

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Bonnefond Côte Rôtie “Les Rochains” 2017    ($72)
[Vinous 95] “expansive, smoke- and mineral-accented bouquet evokes fresh black and blue fruits, licorice, incense and violet… broad and muscular in style…plays richness off finesse with a steady hand and finishes with superb, dark-fruit-dominated tenacity”

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Bonefond Côte Rotie “Côte Rozier” 2017   ($72)
[Vinous 95] “expansive, smoke-tinged cherry, dark berry preserve, peony and incense aromas show excellent clarity…densely packed yet shockingly lively…superb energy on the seamless, strikingly long finish”

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Shimmering 2018 White Burgundy under $30

White Burgundy is among the best food-pairing wines around. It works at the high end – an ageworthy Meursault, a rich dish of veal in cream, etc. But it answers the call for something uncomplicated and reliable — a hearty bowl of mussels, chicken thighs on the grill.

Gerard Thomas’s Bourgogne blanc has been our go-to white burgundy for nearly a decade now. The 2018 is everything you want in a Bourgogne blanc: refreshing, complex, rich but not heavy, vibrant but not thin. It doesn’t make Meursault promises — but it way over delivers for $6/glass.

All of Gérard Thomas’s 2018s are lipsmakingly good — a tasty combination of fleshy texture and shimmering energy. At each classification level the wines drink above their weight. The 2018 Bourgogne has a bit more meat on its bones than usual, making it lovely on its own.

The nose is soft and elegant, with hazelnut and wood notes melting into lemon and baked apple fruit. There’s solid acidity and plenty of body, and it’s more mouthfilling than most wine of its class.

We strongly recommend setting aside a night for a high-end white Burgundy. But for a busy weeknight when all you need is something balanced and crisp and refreshing, look no further.

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Thomas Bourgogne 2018
bottle price: $29

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“Elegant and Refined” 2016 Red Burgundy from Michel Gros under $40

Michel Gros produces some of our favorite red Burgundies. His style is smooth and elegant, with warm, enticing notes of toast, red berries, and a silky texture. Gros’s village level and premier cru wines can be truly extraordinary, but they often require (and reward) investment and patience.

But not all Gros wines hail from such exalted zip codes. Gros makes several “petits vins,” which aren’t as complex or long-lived, but offer a chance to sample his brilliance at a more affordable price. In 2016 a late-summer heatwave added an extra dose of ripeness to the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits regions, and the resulting wines have unusual richness for the classification level.

The Fontaine-Saint-Martin vineyard is named for a nearby Cistercian abbey that dates to 1127. The hillside of vines was in production for centuries, and Michel has made wine there for over 40 years. The Fontaine St-Martin plot is indeed special — soil samples revealed the parcel contains the same mix of marl, clay, and limestone found on the Hill of Corton

The 2016 Fontaine-St-Martin punches well above its weight. It sports the vintage’s intricate, fine-grained tannins, with dark blue fruit, and floral notes of violets and roses. Master of Wine Julia Harding (via JancisRobinson.com) called it, “Dry, tight and fresh, elegant and refined … just a lovely, complete wine and well priced.”

If you’re in the market for the Gros village and premier cru wines, we recommend them with enthusiasm. But if you’re new to the producer, or in search of a terrific sub-$50 red Burgundy, look no further.

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Gros Fontaine-St-Martin rouge 2016
bottle price: $39

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Gorgeous White Burgundy from a Hidden Valley

Winemaker:   Michel and Estelle Prunier are a father-daughter winemaking team whose wines are humble and classic. Master of Wine Clive Coates calls the Pruniers “certainly the best grower” in the town, and their wines perfectly fit the charming, small-town Burgundian feel of the region.

Appellation:   Auxey-Duresses lies in the valley west of Meursault. Its reds are punchy and bright, with a bit of Pommard pluck; the whites are floral and golden, and at their best resemble their neighbor Meursault. It’s often a source for overperforming white Burgundies like today’s: Prunier’s Auxey-Duresses blanc 2017.

Wine:   The nose is gorgeous, showing white flowers and white pepper, with baked lemon beneath. The mouthfeel is round and full, with a long finish full of apple pie and crème brûlée. The Pruniers use only 10% new oak on this wine — all of its depth and texture come from perfectly mature grapes. Cover the label and your guests will think of Santenay or Meursault.

Pairing:   Try this with Shrimp Scampi — and there’s enough richness to stand up to some pepper flakes should the moment strike you.

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Prunier Auxey-Duresses blanc 2017
bottle price: $48

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Floral & Fresh: Delicious $24 Côtes du Rhône

Domaine:   The secret to winemaker Nicolas Haeni’s success comes down to one thing: elevation. The Malmont vineyards are perched high in the hills above Séguret, where cooler air and slower ripening grapes are the key to balance. As the rest of the Southern Rhône struggles to keep their reds below 15% alcohol, the Malmont cuvées boast exquisite and enviable freshness.

Appellation:   Today’s wine is classified as a Côtes du Rhône, but the vines are in Séguret. Winemaking here dates back to 611, and the style is typically rich, rugged and well priced. They’re great value alternatives to their famous neighbor Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Wine:   The 2017 Malmont Côtes du Rhône provides all the delicious, dark complexity of a southern Rhône red, with none of the heaviness. The nose shows raspberry, blackberry, and lavender. The mouth is perfectly balanced: rich dark fruit, excellent freshness, a mouthfilling attack and a clean finish.

Pairing:   This is a great grilling red — burgers, sausages, even a pulled pork sandwich. But take a bottle out to your front stoop (a bit cool) on a summer afternoon, and you won’t need much else.

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Malmont Côtes du Rhône 2017
bottle price: $24

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Brisk & Refreshing: Delightful New Grüner-Veltliner. $19

Winery:   The Salomon-Undhof estate dates to 1792, and their terraced vines overlooking the Danube have long been an excellent source. The country’s preeminent wine guide calls them a “figurehead of Austrian wine history.” Their style is what you’d expect from 225 years of history — clean, polished, and refined.

Grape:   “Austrian wine” is nearly synonymous with Grüner-Veltliner, and 75% of the world’s Grüner is Austrian. The grapes typical expression is dry and savory, with excellent acidity and low alcohol. It’s delicious (particularly with food) year round, but it’s particularly perfect in the summer.

Wine:   Salomon’s 2018 Grüner Veltliner “Wieden” is a delight. The nose shows juniper, herbs and lime. The mouth is dry and mid-weight, with good notes of cucumber, lime zest, and grape skins. At 12% alcohol and with excellent freshness, this is a no brainer for warm weather.

Pairing:   Pair this with raw oysters, sushi, or fried chicken.

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Salomon Grüner-Veltliner “Wieden” 2018
bottle price: $19

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Everyday Bubbles: Superb Crémant de Bourgogne. $22

Domaine:   Picamelot is among Burgundy’s finest crémant houses. The Wine Advocate’s resident Champagne expert William Kelley writes that “Picamelot produces some of the best sparkling wines in Burgundy,” and calls their wines “elegant,” “excellent,” and “superb.”

Appellation:   Crémant de Bourgogne is sparkling wine made in Burgundy. The method is similar to Champagne: fermentation in tank, bottling, dosing with sugar and yeast, second fermentation, then disgorging. Crémant usually spends less time on the lees than Champagne, but can offer exceptional value.

Wine:   Picamelot’s Brut “Les Terroirs” is a blend of Burgundy’s three grapes: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Aligoté. It spends nine months on the lees, and was disgorged earlier this year.

Notes:   This nose is clean and elegant, with notes of almond, pineapple, and cream. The mouth is very dry, quite lively, and crisply refreshing, with apple fruit and a long vinous finish. At $22 this continues to be a steal; pair this with a warm Friday afternoon.

Also available in: Magnums.

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Picamelot Crémant Brut “Terroirs” NV
bottle price: $22

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Picnic Pinot: Crisp, Refreshing Summertime Red Sancerre

We love our Sancerre producer, Domaine de la Garenne. Their three Sancerre blanc cuvées are delightful: the crisp and fruity Sancerre 2019, the stony Sancerre “Bouffants” 2019, and the bracing, intense Sancerre “Infidèle.” They’re all Sauvignon Blanc at their most vibrant and delicious.

Garenne’s fourth Sancerre cuvée is also crisp, refreshing, and a perfect blend of fruit and minerals… it just happens to be red. Made from pure Pinot Noir, the Sancerre rouge is just beautiful this year: pure, refreshing Pinot fruit, unencumbered by oak.

The 2018 Sancerre is a perfect summertime red. The nose shows intense red cherry fruit, with notes of wild honey and raspberry. The mouth is bright, clean, and lively, with punchy freshness and a beautiful mineral core.

Take this on your next picnic, even if it’s only in the open trunk of your car, or on the front stoop. You won’t mistake it for Burgundy, but it’s as enjoyable and thirst-quenching as sub-$30 red can be. Pair it with cheese, crackers, and a warm summer afternoon.

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Garenne Sancerre rouge 2018
bottle price: $28

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Exquisite 92-point Premier Cru Chablis: Oyster Shells and Pears

We’re really excited about the 2018 Chablis lineup from Jean Collet in the May Futures. From their simple Vieilles Vignes to the magnificent Grand Cru Les Clos, Romain Collet handled the warm vintage with expert control, finding perfect balance and freshness in every cuvée.

While we wait for those to arrive, however, we’re enjoying the 2017s in stock now. And none is more enjoyable than the Chablis 1er cru “Montmains.” Drawn from 45 year old vines in a Kimmeridgian limestone-filled vineyard, Romain uses no new oak for this cuvée: it’s Chablis at its most pure and brilliant.

Chablis is the ultimate food wine — dry, crisp, vibrant, and refreshing. With everyone cooking at home more than usual these days, this is as versatile as food-paring wines come. Jasper Morris MW writes that Romain Collet “has made great strides,” and his domaine “is moving towards joining the pantheon” in Chablis.

Collet’s 2017 Chablis 1er Montmains is electric. The nose is bright and bursting with pear, stones, sea spray, lemon peel, and honey. The mouth is dry and chiseled, filled with exquisite tension and notes of green apple, chalk and oyster shells. Wine Advocate’s reviewer William Kelley awarded 92 points, and called it “a high point in the [Collet premier cru] range.”

We drink this with lots of food, but a particular favorite chez nous is Chicken Schnitzel. Use panko crumbs; after browning pour off most of the oil and deglaze with wine and finish with a cream reduction. The Chablis cuts like a knife through the sauce: a dynamic and delightful pair.

 

Collet Chablis 1er “Montmains” 2017
bottle price: $36

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Old Reliable: a Favorite Rhône Red Returns

Some wines just hit a sweet spot between price and quality. All the way back to our brick and mortar days in Dupont Circle in Washington DC, the Goubert Sablet has been among the best sellers in our lineup. When we left it off our order last fall, we had half a dozen customers write in to express concern.

It’s not the fanciest wine in our cellar — it’s not even the fanciest Côtes du Rhône. But there’s something about the balance of fruit, earth, texture, acidity, tannin and price that make it a winning combination. We’ve just restocked on the 2017, and it’s as solid and reliable as ever.

Gouert’s Sablet 2017 is at once dark and refreshing: the nose is a blend of wild cherries, lavender, blackberry jam, and cloves. In the mouth the fruits are red perfectly ripe, with beautiful freshness and a clean, spiced finish. The weight is perfect: rounded tannins, mouth-coating fruit, solid supporting acidity, and a mouthwatering finale.

We serve this with everything and with nothing. Pasta with garlic, pepper flakes, and too much parmesan is a favorite; but it’s right for almost everything. Serve it a bit cooled — it’ll be the tastiest $3.80 glass of red you’ve had in a while.

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Goubert Sablet 2017
bottle price: $18

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