“If gold were a flavor,” Matt Kramer once wrote, “it would taste like Meursault.” Though it has no Grand Cru, the wines of Meursault are some of the most sought after in the world. For most, the name recalls white Burgundies of decadence, opulence, and style.
As fashions change, dessert wines have become a dwindling part of collectors’ inventories. But no serious cellar is complete without them. We think everyone — even casual wine enthusiasts — should have at least one dessert wine in their arsenal; and if it’s going to be just one, it should be Sauternes.
Nestled side by side just south the city of Beaune, three neighboring towns represent the crown jewels of White Burgundy: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and Meursault. This trio produces the finest whites in Burgundy, which most consider the greatest white wines in the world.
Pascal Bardoux is among the most contemplative winemakers we’ve met. Before our inaugural visit in June, Mr. Bardoux asked about the timing and contents of our lunch to understand the state of our palates. The meandering, thoughtful conversation that followed included long silences, dozens of questions, and detailed lexicological discussions about the precise flavors in the glass.
In Burgundy, it’s important to know your geography. Tiny changes in location can have large effects on the wine in the bottle. But because almost all vineyards are divided among several growers, it’s even more important to know your winemaker.
Of the 12,000 acres of vineyards planted in Chablis, only 250 qualify as Grand Cru. This highest tier includes seven distinct vineyards, each famous in its own right. But among the seven, the Grand Cru “Les Clos” is generally considered the finest. And it is from these hallowed 68 acres — just one tenth of a square mile — that today’s wine hails.
We’ve collected six mixed supply cases to help stock up for your holiday party, starting at $17/bot. We’ve included dozens of gift ideas, with discounts of 10-30% off, and free East Coast shipping. And finally, we’ve shared some of our favorite Wilcox Family holiday recipes.
For many, gift exchanges, holiday parties, and large family meals fill the next four weeks. Whether you’re a host or a guest, everyone’s just a bit happier to see you with sparkling wine in hand. Here’s a bottle of affordable, versatile bubbles that fits as well in a secret Santa or office cocktail party as on your family’s holiday table.
With Thanksgiving but a few days away, delicious smells have begun to emerge from our kitchen. One of cooking’s most intoxicating aromas comes from a process called the Maillard reaction. First identified by Frenchman Louis Camille Maillard in 1912, it’s the flavor most often associated with browned meat, though it’s also found in bread crusts, chocolate, dark beers, and coffee beans.
Burgundy isn’t always the most accessible of wines. Many bottles require cellaring, food pairing can be tricky, and there’s often a hefty entry fee. But as anyone who has ever tasted a well aged Burgundy can tell you, when it’s good, there’s nothing quite like it.
Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault are neighboring small towns in Burgundy. From end to end they cover just under five miles, and their combined populations number less than 2000 souls. Both towns have made wine for a thousand years, and today are world famous as sources of the finest white Burgundy.
The Loire Valley is at the heart of France’s natural wine movement. Many winemakers here live a back-to-the-land ethos, crafting wines as organically and minimally as possible. While some vignerons certainly may take the low sulfiting and unfiltered ideal too far, most wines turn out balanced, fresh, and more complex.
It is often said that good wines are made in the vineyards. That may be true, but they can also be saved in the winery. When we visited the Domaine Collet in Chablis in the midst of the 2013 harvest, it seemed a scene of tragedy. Rot-laden grapes and malfunctioning machinery had kept the young winemaker Romain Collet up all night with worry, and we made a mental note to exercise caution before buying the finished product.
For years our readers asked us to find a grower Champagne, and for years our search fell short. But in June we struck gold at last, based on a recommendation from Burgundian winemaker Michel Gros. We’re excited to have filled this hole in our portfolio, and particularly to have done so with such a singular source.
Thanksgiving is one of our favorite holidays — a celebration of family, feasting, and maybe some football. We’ve got lots of suggestions for wine on your Thanksgiving dinner table, in our nine mixed cases and November Notebook. But this year we’ll be adding another, more traditional beverage to our table: crisp, refreshing, Breton cider.