Grape varietals often get their names from a visible aspect of their fruit. The name Sauvignon blanc comes from sauvage (“wild”) because its leaves resemble those of wild grape vines. Pinot Gris refers to the blue-gray (gris) color of its grapes. But our favorite varietal etymologically speaking has to be Sangiovese — a wine so inky and black that it is named for the “blood of Jove.”
One thing that separates good wines from great ones is their ability to age. With each passing year the difference between a Côtes du Rhône and a Châteauneuf-du-Pape increases. It’s the same with Burgundy and Bordeaux, and also with today’s subject: Champagne.
Harvests have begun around France this week. Next week the older half of the Ansonia team heads over to Burgundy for les vendanges in the Côte de Nuits. In the Languedoc, where the warm southern sun ripens the grapes earlier, the Mas Foulaquier’s harvest is well under way. Browse through their Instagram and you can almost smell the wild yeast and fruit in their cuverie.
Pinot noir is synonymous with Red Burgundy. With few exceptions, it’s the only red grape Burgundians may grow. In Burgundy Pinot Noir produces some of the most extraordinary red wines in the world. But the grape also thrives elsewhere in France, yielding wines of a different character.
It’s almost harvest time in Burgundy. As winemakers gather their teams of pickers for the important weeks ahead, the hillsides of France begin to buzz with activity. This is an exciting time, full of promise, expectation, and celebration.
It’s still summer for a few more weeks, but in the Northeast the evenings are already starting to feel like fall. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the ultimate cold weather wine, and while it’s at its best in the dead of winter, well balanced examples are an excellent way to slide into autumn.
Much has been written about the 2015 vintage in Burgundy, one of the best in a generation. But the vintage also brought impressive wines from elsewhere in France. In particular, the syrah-based wines of the Northern Rhône had a banner year in 2015. Master of Wine Jancis Robinson in a recent article proclaimed them “the best in 55 years.”
Excepting the famous towns surrounding Montrachet, the richest and most luxurious white Burgundies come from Pouilly-Fuissé. Grown an hour to the south of the Côte d’Or in the Maconnais, the wines of Pouilly-Fuissé show Chardonnay’s soft and opulent side. When carelessly made, Pouilly-Fuissé can be heavy and flat; but from a careful producer it can be a revelation.
We enjoy the challenge of pairing food and wine. We’re enthusiastic home cooks chez Wilcox, and experimenting with flavors is one of our favorite pastimes. But it’s also nice to have a few wines that pair well with everything — a “house wine” that you can get out and not think too much about.
Sancerre gets most of the Sauvignon Blanc attention in the Loire Valley. But in fact the upper Loire has many excellent sources for the grape. Our favorites from the less well-known towns is Pouilly-Fumé. Located just across the Loire river from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé can be just as good as its famous neighbor.
Europe has been unusually hot this summer. Though the south of France is no stranger to summer heat, the country’s continental climate is important in helping its wines achieve balance. Overripe grapes contain too much sugar and too little acid, which boosts alcohol levels and flattens the palate.
We do lots of grilling in the summer. For nice cuts of meat we suggest fancier red Burgundies or Bordeaux — something complex to sit with and enjoy slowly. But for simpler fare — burgers, shish kabob, vegetables, chicken, steak tips, etc — we like reds that aren’t too complicated.
There has been no shortage of ink spilled about the 2015 red Burgundies, and indeed the praise is warranted. But it might mean that 2014, a truly excellent vintage, won’t receive nearly enough hype. We are stocking up on 2014s, and we encourage fellow Burgundy enthusiasts to do the same.
Nicolas Maillet is our new source for chardonnay from southern Burgundy. His wines are classic examples of the best Maconnais — cool, round chardonnay with excellent balance and little or no oak. If the Côte d’Or is home to Burgundies of pedigree and refinement, then the Maconnais is…
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest appellation in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. Because of its clay rich soils, its wines are similarly grand. Known for power and longevity, Gevrey-Chambertin shows dark, intense fruit and a sturdy tannic structure.