Winemaking began in the Languedoc around 125 BC, and over the last two millennia, little has changed in the basic chemistry. Though the last century saw the advent of new chemicals and measurements, winemaking is still the combination of grapes, yeast, and time.
The 2015 red Burgundies are nothing short of a sensation. After months of hype and a frenzy of enthusiasm upon release, they’ve lived up to nearly all of their acclaim. With sturdy tannins suggesting long and happy lives, the wines also offer near-term hedonistic delight — the best are juicy, lively, and, as the French say, gouleyant (gulpable).
We often recommend wines intended for a specific time or place. A carefully aged Burgundy for a Christmas roast; a stony Chablis for a plate of summer oysters — a precise wine pairing for a dish or setting can elevate both.
Christophe Bonnefond is a quiet man. Our tastings with him each year are pleasant and friendly, but he’s not what you’d call a “talker”. He’s happy to answer questions, but rarely volunteers information, preferring to let his wines speak for themselves.
For a crowd-pleasing red, it’s hard to beat Côtes du Rhône. Guests with New World leanings will appreciate the richness and full flavor. Those with Old World inclinations will appreciate the balance and style. It’s a wine nearly everyone will enjoy without too much thought.
We find some of our favorite values in towns just off the beaten path. The neighbor villages of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are the world’s best known sources for fine white wine. But just two miles to the west lies the often-overlooked town of Saint-Aubin, which turns out to be an exceptional source for value in white Burgundy.
Named for an 8th century Breton hermit monk, the medieval town of St-Emilion has long been a center for winemaking. Viticulture there dates to at least 275 AD, when Roman soldiers cleared the local forest and replaced it with vines.
Most things in Burgundy are old. Ancient walls and Roman paths wind across the landscape of vines; houses built a hundred years ago are considered new. And the people of the region have practiced viticulture here since long before it was called Burgundy.
In Burgundy, nearly all white wines are pure Chardonnay. The primary exception to the rule is Aligoté, a less prestigious varietal that nonetheless accounts for over 10% of white vines in Burgundy. It’s a traditional Burgundian grape that makes simple, refreshing wines meant for enjoying, not contemplating.
Côtes-du-Rhônes are a dime a dozen these days. From bistro chalkboards in Paris to Whole Foods to the drugstore checkout counter, it’s one of the most recognizable brands in the wine world. And as you might expect, not all Côtes-du-Rhônes are created equal. Among our very favorites is the Domaine Malmont’s version from Séguret. Malmont’s […]
Many of our winemakers are multi-generational. Some stretch back for centuries, others are more recent père et fils (or fille) operations. At their best they maintain a family’s hard won knowledge of its land.
Pouilly-Fuissé produces southern Burgundy’s finest wines. Grown an hour to the south of the Côte d’Or in the Maconnais, the wines of Pouilly-Fuissé show Chardonnay’s soft and opulent side. When carelessly made, Pouilly-Fuissé can be heavy and flat; but from a careful producer it can be a revelation.
Winemaking can be an unglamourous business. Behind the romance of the craft lies months of labor-intensive farming: flat tractor tires, vine maladies, hand pruning, bookkeeping, equipment cleaning, etc. Even for those in the trade, it can be easy to forget the work that goes into every bottle of wine. Perhaps no wine more acutely displays […]
French wines have long been the focus of Ansonia’s portfolio. Of the 45 or so winemakers we work with, about half are from Burgundy, and all but a few are French. This isn’t to say that these are the only places to find excellent wine, only that we’ve chosen depth over width in our portfolio.
Michel Gros appears on most lists of Burgundy’s finest winemakers. His style is smooth and elegant, with warm, enticing notes of toast, red berries, and a silky texture. Gros’s village level and premier cru wines can be truly extraordinary, but they require (and reward) investment and patience.