Author: Thomas Wilcox

We often judge a vigneron’s talent by his simplest wine. Great wines from great terroir of course involve a steady winemaker as guide, but the material undoubtedly provides a head start. With humble fruit from an unsung plot of regional-level vines, winemaking skill comes even more into play.

Our final Futures issue of the year comes out next week. It features some of our most popular winemakers: Gros, Boyer-Martenot, Goubert, and others. Most years we single out Michel Gros’s Bourgogne rouge to preview, but this year we’re just as excited about another wine of a different color.

The 2019 Bourgognes from Boyer-Martenot and Michel Gros are as good as ever, a result of excellent winemaking in a superb vintage. They’ll be presented next week in our October Futures, along with magnificent wines from Burgundy’s most famous appellations: Vosne-Romanée, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-St-Denis, and more. But in some ways these two are the most impressive performances in the lineups.

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GROS BOURGOGNE ROUGE 2019
Michel’s 2019 Bourgogne rouge is delicious. From an outstanding vintage that provided excellent ripeness laid over well-built tannin, the wine shows both utterly pleasant youthful fruit and masterfully crafted underlying structure. The tannins are smooth and unobtrusive, but provide a perfect armature on which to display the fruit. Look for notes of red berries, earth, and chalk in the nose, with a clean, refreshing finish.

Burghound called the 2019 “fresh and bright,” “vibrant and well-detailed.” As always this requires no patience and should be delicious this fall. Butwe anticipate this vintage in particular will also cellar nicely over a year or two. At under $25/bot with Futures pricing, this is an astonishing value. If you’re in the market for an everyday red Burgundy, your search ends here.

Ansonia Retail: $408
Futures: $295/case

AVAILABLE BY THE CASE AND HALF CASE, EMAIL TOM TO ORDER

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BOYER BOURGOGNE BLANC 2019
Yesterday afternoon we conducted a Zoom tasting of five Boyer-Martenot whites from 2018, ranging from Bourgogne to Meursault 1er cru “Genevrières.” While the premier crus were otherworldly and magnificent, the 2018 Bourgogne blanc more than held its own, and was easily voted the best value in the lineup.

The 2019 Bourgogne from Boyer is even more impressive. It’s more serious and concentrated than the 2018, showing gorgeous ripe sucrocité packed into a dense and delicious package. It’s longer and richer than just about any wine of its level, and shows hints of the white flowers of Meursault (where its vines are found). If we had to pick a single regional white Burgundy in our cellar, it’s this one, no question.

Burghound awarded it both his “Top Value” and “Outstanding” awards, calling it “‘delicious and refreshing,” with “fine depth and length.” We think this well overperforms its $34 retail pricetag; with a Futures price under $25, it’s a steal. Given the concentration and beautiful freshness, this too should continue to drink well for a year or two after arrival.

Ansonia Retail: $408
Futures: $295/case

AVAILABLE BY THE CASE AND HALF CASE, EMAIL TOM TO ORDER

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of the most recognizable brands in wine. Made famous by French popes in the 14th century, and then again by Robert Parker in the 1980s, the appellation’s place on the winemaking map is well established. And well deserved — the wines can be extraordinary, though they often come at a “special occasion” price point for most wine enthusiasts.

Enter Gigondas. Wine from this appellation, about 20 minutes across the valley, shares many of the same rich, dark qualities that draw people to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Gigondas isn’t quite as deep or as long lived as its more famous neighbor, but its price encourages more frequent enjoyment. It’s a great choice for the autumn months ahead.

The Clos du Joncuas has been among our happiest recent discoveries in the Southern Rhône. Sisters Dany and Carol Chastan have run their family domaine for decades according to organic and biodynamic principles. The wines are all beautifully made, with minimal manipulation and no pretense. They practice old school winemaking — 100% whole clusters, ambient yeasts, no fining or filtering, no oaking.

Their 2018 Gigondas is, in a word, impressive. The nose mixes floral notes of violets with strawberry jam. In the mouth there is plenty of body, but the fine-grained tannins stay in the background while the wine coats the palate. There is very good length and an excellent finish.

Put a stew in the oven, turn on the football game, and pour yourself a glass of this — autumn has arrived.

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Joncuas Gigondas 2018
bottle price: $35

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As Francophiles we get excited about many expressions of French terroir — wine, of course, but also cheese, butter, chickens, oysters, truffles, mustard. And so, just in time for Fall, we’re thrilled to release our newest French products: cider and poiré from Normandy.

It’s too cold north of Paris to grow much in the way of grapes, but in Normandy and Brittany they’ve cultivated apples and pears for centuries. With nearly 800 varieties planted across northern France, cidermakers craft their blends based on tannin, sweetness, bitterness, tartness and pH. Our new source is the Cidrerie Ribaude, a 9th generation cider farm in Normandy’s “Pays d’Auge” appellation.

Ribaude Organic Dry Cider. $15
Made from 30 apple varieties collected in two separate harvests — one in October, one in November. The fermentation takes two months, and reaches an alcohol of between 3 and 5%. The nose is floral and earthy, with notes of dried fruit and dried roses or daisies. The mouth is very dry, with a hint of tannin, relatively low acid, and a faint tartness — notes of black tea, leaves, baked apples, allspice, browned butter, straw and almonds.
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Ribaude Rosé Cider. $15
Made from pink-fleshed apples, their rosé cider is particularly well balanced — more tart than the Organic Dry, with both more fruit and more acid. The nose shows notes of tarte tatin, macintosh apple, spices, and orange peel. The mouth is crisp and refreshing, with less funk and a bit more fruit and caramel notes. It’s still not sweet, but not as bone-dry as the Organic Dry Cider.
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Ribaude Organic Dry Poiré. $15
Made just like cider but with pears instead of apples, Poiré is less common but no less tasty. Ribaude’s is a blend of 20 varieties, and its alcohol barely breaks 3%. The nose is exuberant and delightful, with notes of caramel, pear tart, and dried flowers. The mouth is fruity but also crisp and vibrant with nice acidity and notes of honey, herbs and apples.
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Normandy Sampler: $180
Four of each: Organic Dry Cider, Rosé Cider, Organic Dry Poiré. Free East Coast Shipping
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In the dozen years since he took over his family’s domaine, Romain Collet has elevated its reputation as fast as any new generation we’ve witnessed. We’ve noticed it ourselves, but we’re not alone — writers from Vinous, Burghound and Robert Parker have noted a “higher level of refinement” and a “significant upsurge in quality.” Jasper Morris MW writes that Romain Collet “is moving towards joining the pantheon” in Chablis.

All of Romain’s 2019 premier crus are terrific — we couldn’t decide on a favorite, so we bought all four. But today we’re focused on Montmains, the classical cuvée. Collet’s Montmains is raised entirely in stainless steel. The soils for their plot are clay-poor, which contributes to the decision to keep eschew oak.

The 2019 Montmains is truly delicious wine, and requires neither patience nor introduction – we think even the most hardened New World Chardonnay drinker couldn’t turn a glass of this down. It’s fresh and delightful, with plenty of dry lemon fruit, and hints of stones and shells on the finish. Dry, unoaked fruit dominates here, with terrific tension.

Jasper Morris and Burghound both gave 89-92 points, finding it “attractive and quite persistent,” with “intense and sleekly textured flavors… all wrapped in a bone-dry finish.” It’s broad enough to enjoy a glass on its own, but we think it’s best with sushi, oysters, scallops, or simple goat cheese. That a cuvée this complex and complete runs $35/bot is truly remarkable.

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Collet Chablis 1er “Montmains” 2019
bottle price: $35

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Several years ago a winemaker summed up his thoughts to us on barrel aging wines: “oak is fine, but wine is better.” As oaking maxims go, we find this a pretty good one. Oak can be a necessary supporting element, but when it’s the loudest voice in a cuvée it’s rarely a recipe for success.

Which is why we tasted the Domaine des Sanzay’s barrel-raised Chenin Blanc with a healthy dose of skepticism. Loire Valley Chenin Blanc is one of the world’s great wines, and so delightful is the blend of chalky terroir and orchard fruit it’s hard to imagine oak doing anything but messing it up. But even tired old tasters can be surprised from time to time.

Sanzay’s “Coinçons” [kwen-sawn] is pure Chenin Blanc from 50 year old vines. It’s fermented with wild yeasts in large oak barrels, then aged in oak (half new) with regular lees stirring for the élévage. This sounds like a recipe for a rich buttery wine, but somehow it’s not — the concentrated fruit from the old vines provides a sturdy enough base.

The oak is there, but it’s handled meticulously — like a white Burgundy made from Chenin. The nose shows quince, pear, toast, and earth; the mouth is dry and perfectly balanced between fruit, acid, and toast. Picture the shimmering golden fruit of a Meursault with the more exotic profile of pear and stones from the Loire.

This may not be the classic expression of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc we love so much, but it’s seriously delicious, and very well made. Serve with grilled swordfish or pan-seared scallops.

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Sanzay Chenin Blanc “Coinçons” 2019
bottle price: $25

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By Burgundy standards, Gevrey-Chambertin is enormous. It covers a thousand acres, including a whopping 135 acres of Grand Cru vines. Its wines are of a similar scale — rich, meaty, bold Pinot Noir balancing delicacy and depth.

Many of Burgundy’s best value wines come from vineyards just over the border from the iconic names. We often write about Domaine Amiot’s “Combottes,” a premier cru Gevrey vineyard surrounded by Grand Crus. Today we’re suggesting Amiot’s village-level Gevrey, a similarly well located plot at a remarkable price.

Pierre Amiot’s village level Gevrey comes from two plots bordering the famous Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin. The Grand Cru will run you $200-$300; (and we think Combottes is worth every penny at $99). But Amiot’s village-level wine just from feet away doesn’t even crack $60.

Amiot is a small scale, fifth generation winemaker in Morey-St-Denis. In a good year they make 100 cases of their village level Gevrey, making it one of their smallest volume cuvées. Most of Amiot’s wines come from Morey-St-Denis, a town known for its finesse and minerality — the Amiots have mastered the art of drawing subtle elegance from Burgundian Pinot Noir.

Apply this delicate touch to neighboring Gevrey’s bold terroir and a superb 2019 vintage,, and the resulting wine is simply terrific. Amiot’s 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin is dark, meaty and bursting with smooth inky fruit. Look for spiced plums, cassis, blackberry, and woods. It should age nicely for 3-4 years, but drink beautifully today.

Burghound found “earthy aromas of dark currant,” calling it “appealingly vibrant” with a “sleek texture” and “fine-grained tannins.” Amiot’s premier crus are delicious and worth your time; but today’s village-level Gevrey offers the amiot style and 2019 vintage with a friendlier pricetag. Pour it from a carafe as you welcome the return of that crisp autumn air at last.

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Amiot Gevrey-Chambertin 2019
bottle price: $59

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Thomas Morey makes some of the most delicate white Burgundies we know. Far from the rich, opulent style of the past decades, Morey’s Chassagnes are refined, subtle, and sophisticated. Burgundy expert Jasper Morris MW calls them “very pure, precise and elegant,” as well as “excellent.”

At the village level, Morey’s Chassagne-Montrachet draws from 14 plots across the appellation. Morey explained to us he feels it’s important to have a cuvée that represents his town (where his family has lived for five centuries) as a whole. But at the premier cru level, Morey bottles each plot separately — and after one taste of today’s Embrazées you’ll see why.

Embrazées is a premier cru in the Morgeot sector of Chassagne, a neighborhood known for its bold, round wines. This lush terroir combined with Morey’s precise style makes this cuvée extraordinary. The name Embrazées roughly translates to “aglow” or “aflame,” and the wine indeed glows with intensity and a smooth sophistication.

Burghound was blown away, calling it “outstanding,” awarding 93 points, and concluding “This is really lovely and a wine of finesse and punch.” Jasper Morris also awarded 93 points, finding it “delicious.” We found notes of peach, hazelnut, and lemon — it’s at once rich, intense, and tightly coiled: a masterful exercise in restraint. Serve with lobster and butter.

This should improve for 3-5 years, but in a decanter today it’s not a wine you’ll soon forget.

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Morey Chassagne-Montrachet
1er cru “Embrazées” 2019
bottle price: $92

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Everyone needs a pantry wine — something to open without too much consideration or care. Thirsty guests looking for something to wet their whistle? Pantry wine. Back home after a long weekend away, with no energy for anything but takeout pizza? Pantry wine. Football game go into overtime and you need just one more glass of something simple? You guessed it.

In the summer, our pantry wine is usually Chablis — simple, refreshing, crisp, and uncomplicated. But in cooler months, it’s a humble red Rhône blend. We have plenty of options in the Côtes du Rhône genre, but none better balanced or less work than Goubert’s humble Côtes du Rhône.

We’ve just restocked on the delicious 2019. At $3.20 a glass, you’ll probably spend more on the bag of tortilla chips.

A Côtes du Rhône should be three things: refreshing, dark, and inexpensive. Goubert’s is all three. The relatively low alcohol, keeps it fresh and lively on the palate. The blend of six grapes classic Rhône grapes forms a rich, hearty, dark wine. And it’s inexpensive enough to pull out at a moment’s notice.

Winemaker Florence Cartier has improved this cuvée perhaps more than any other since she took over a few years ago. The nose is expressive and surprisingly refined, showing dark wild cherries, raspberries, and a hint of menthol. The mouth is both jammy and refreshing, with notes of white pepper, licorice, raspberry and plums.

Don’t overthink this and it won’t let you down.

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Goubert Côtes du Rhône 2019
bottle price: $16

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