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The Magic of Steak and Bordeaux. $22

Fond. One of the most intoxicating aromas in cooking comes from the Maillard reaction. It’s the flavor most often associated with browned meat, though it’s also found in bread crusts, chocolate, coffee beans, and dark beer. First identified by Louis Camille Maillard, the reaction is similar to caramelization, but produces earthier, more complex flavors.

There aren’t any Maillard reactions in the winemaking process, but from time to time the same aroma molecules appear in red wines. One of our favorite dishes that showcases Maillard’s magic is Thomas Keller’s skirt steak. And one of the best wine pairings we know for the dish is the red from Chateau Lafont Menaut in Pessac-Leognan in Bordeaux.

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Plum jam and earth.  Lafont Menaut is the project of Philibert Perrin, whose family also owns neighboring Chateau Carbonnieux (one of three visited by Thomas Jefferson in 1786). He employs the same care and expertise at both properties. The Cabernet adds dark, briary notes of blackberry and currant, with the Merlot adding notes of plum jam.

Lafont Menaut is a classic, dark-palate Bordeaux, showing figs and currants alongside notes of cedar smoke and earth. It benefits greatly from 30 minutes or so in a glass or decanter. The 2014 has just arrived in our warehouse — a dark, rich vintage with ripe, juicy tannins. With both steak and wine on your table you may get confused about the source of some of the aromas — but we can assure you after a gulp of each the source won’t much matter.

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LAFONT MENAUT Pessac-Leognan 2014
Ansonia Retail: $26
6+ bottle price : $22/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Humble, Delicious Red Burgundy: Roses, Cherries, and Toast. $22

Off the beaten track.  Most of the red Burgundy we import comes from the Côte d’Or. Stretching thirty miles from Dijon to Santenay, the Côte d’Or is home to nearly all of Burgundy’s famous vineyards. But continue south past Santenay and there’s a whole other world of Burgundy to discover — one with quieter names, simpler wines, and far more reasonable prices.

Just ten miles south of the end of the Côte d’Or lies the town of Givry. The town had a brief run of popularity in the 16th century, when France’s King Henry IV declared it his favorite wine. Since then Givry has settled into its more modest existence, producing humble, honest, and delicious red Burgundies.

The wines of Givry trade elegance for energy, more comfortable in a Parisian bistro than a three-star restaurant. And today’s offering perfectly embodies the vibrant, rugged side of Pinot Noir.

Everyday Red. The Desvignes Givry “Meix au Roy” is a Burgundy disguised as a Côtes du Rhône. There’s more rusticity and juiciness than in Burgundy from further north, but the same pure, delightful Pinot Noir fruit and deliciously accessible mouthfeel. The nose is dark and briary, with stewed cherries, roses, and faint toast. The mouth is smooth and ripe, with low tannin, great freshness, raspberries and a hint of fig.

This is an excellent choice for Burgundy fans looking for a house red and a break on the bill. The 2014 vintage’s ripe tannins make this easily accessible young, particularly with a steak frites — it’s even more enjoyable than six months ago when it arrived.

There’s a time and a place for the finest Pinot Noirs of Burgundy — but some nights call for Givry over Gevrey.

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DESVIGNES Givry 2014
Ansonia Retail: $26
6+ bottle price : $22/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Mixed Case: Northern Rhône Sampler

The Northern Rhône is a long, narrow winegrowing region on the banks of the Rhône river. Perched along astonishingly steep hillsides just south of Lyon, the region grows only two grapes — viognier for whites, and syrah for reds. Both grapes reach their nothernmost ripening limit here, and the wines they produce represent the highest form of each varietal.

Today we’re offering two whites and two reds from this region. The whites are both Viognier — one a simple everyday cuvée, and the other a magnificent Condrieu. The reds are pure Syrah — one from Saint-Joseph, and one from Côte Rôtie.

Syrah and Viognier are grown all over the world, but nowhere else do they taste quite like this.

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BONNEFOND Viognier 2015
When grown in hot climates Viognier can be heavy and flat; yet in the Northern Rhône it reaches an unusual balance. This entry-level viognier from a master winemaker in Côte Rôtie is perfumed and delightful — look for peach, mango, and honey.

MONTEZ Condrieu 2015
Condrieu is undisputed as the finest Viognier, grown on the vertigo-inducing banks of the Rhône river. Pour this into the biggest red-wine glass you own, swirl, and watch the aromas develop — look for gardenia, apricot, and green tea.

SAINT CLAIR Saint-Joseph 2014
In the best wines of Saint-Joseph, Syrah reaches a balance between dark meatiness and lively, texutred mouthfeel. Denis Basset is a rising star in the area, and his Saint-Joseph is inky dark and enticing but perfectly balanced. Look for black pepper, clove, and blackberry.

BONNEFOND Côte Rôtie 2014
Côte Rôtie is among the finest expressions of Syrah. Vinous calls Bonnefond’s cuvées “some of the most extroverted” in the appellation, and we agree — they’re awfully easy to enjoy. Look for a deep enticing mouthfeel with plum, roasted meats, dark chocolate, and smoke.

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NORTHERN RHONE SAMPLER

3x   Bonnefond Viognier 2015:   $25
3x   Montez Condrieu 2015:   $56
3x   Saint-Clair Saint-Joseph 14:   $32
3x   Bonnefond Côte Rôtie 2014:   $54


Ansonia Retail: $501
offer price: $395/case

free East Coast shipping    |    save $106

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Golden, Floral, Opulent: 2014 Premier Cru Chassagne-Montrachet.

Historic.  The hillside of Montrachet produces the world’s finest dry white wine. In production for nearly two thousand years, the vineyard straddles the border between the neighboring towns of Puligny and Chassagne. Each produces wine of a different character, and though their terroirs meet in the famous plot, there are noticeable differences in the extraordinary wines that both villages make.

If Puligny-Montrachet is a reserved, impeccably dressed Parisian, then Chassagne-Montrachet is a warmer, more jovial Frenchman from Dijon. Both towns produce extraordinary wines, but Chassagne’s are generally friendlier and more approachable young. Today’s cuvée is a premier cru from Chassagne’s southern border, and one you don’t need to wait for to enjoy.

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Friendly.  Roger Belland knows the terroir of Chassagne intimately. He’s the fifth generation winemaker in his family, and he makes wine on both sides of the Montrachet border. Today we offer his Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Monopole “Clos Pitois” 2014, a classic, golden, mouthfilling white Burgundy. The Belland family owns the entire vineyard — an unusual circumstance in Burgundy, where most vineyards are split among several owners.

This wine is everything Chassagne-Montrachet is supposed to be. The nose is explosive and opulent, with coconut, flowers, butter, and honeysuckle — your nose will pick them up while the glass is still several inches away. On the palate this is long, rich, and vibrant, with notes of sweet lemons, hazelnut, and toast.

There’s nothing quite like the Grand Cru Montrachet, but if you can find one, a bottle requires substantial investment. If you’ve ever wondered what has drawn people to this terroir for thousands of years, here’s a slightly more reasonable way to find out.

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BELLAND Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru “Clos Pitois” blanc 2014
Ansonia Retail: $78
3+ bottle price : $69/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    3-     6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Twice the Wine at Half the Price: Small-Batch Grower Champagne.

Discovery.  We first met Pascal Bardoux less than two years ago, but he is already a favorite among our readers. His small-batch Champagnes are distinctive, delicious, complex, and comparative bargains. With much of the mass-market Champagne distributed in the US between $75 and $100 a bottle, Bardoux’s $45 small-batch Brut Traditionnel is twice the wine at half the price.

Monsieur Bardoux is a fifth generation Champagne maker who more resembles a professor. His quiet, thoughtful approach to his wine is a stark departure from the glossy brochures and fancy tasting rooms common in Champagne. But Bardoux’s humble style belies the extraordinary intricacy and elegance of his wines.

This is Champagne as it was meant to be — wine first, bubbles second.

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Best yet.  Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and an excellent entree to the collection. A blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this wine has the complexity and depth to match the finest bottles from Burgundy or Bordeaux. This year’s Traditionnel contains wine mostly from 2012, and we found it even better than last year’s. The nose shows plum and lemon and buttered biscuits; the mouth is dry, elegant, and smooth, with notes of apple and toast.

We can’t recommend this wine highly enough. For those new to Champagne, this wine will convert you with ease, and at $45/bot it won’t blow your budget. For those with a more Churchillian perspective on bubbles, this is as delicious and complex as any non-vintage grower Champagne we’ve had, and it’s impossible to match for value.

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BARDOUX Champagne “Traditionnel” Brut NV
Ansonia Retail: $52
3+ bottle price : $45/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    3-     6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Golden 92-pt Meursault from a Master: the Epitome of White Burgundy.

Cote d’Or.  “If gold were a flavor,” Matt Kramer once wrote, “it would taste like Meursault.” Though it has no Grand Cru vineyards, Meursault’s wines are among the most sought after in the world. The name recalls white Burgundies of decadence, opulence, and style.

We began buying from Vincent Boyer more than a decade ago, and since then the international wine press has widely acclaimed him as a rising star. In 2014 Boyer offered us the rare opportunity to buy some of his Meursault “Narvaux,” a village level white considered among the finest in the town. Boyer coaxes his 70 year old Chardonnay vines into perfect expressions of this extraordinary terroir.

Combining old vines, a master winemaker, exceptional terroir, and the celebrated 2014 vintage, this is not a wine to miss.

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Royalty.  The Narvaux vineyard perches above Meursault’s premier crus and borders the famous Genevrières vineyard. The wine is classic Meursault, with a wonderful mouthfilling intensity drawn from the richness of the fruit, not the oak. The nose is round and generous, showing buttery toast, hazelnut, and apricot. The mouth is full but tense, showing dense notes of pear and white flowers, with a long, vibrant finish.

This is classic, rich, opulent white Burgundy, which is the finest and most impressive expression of Chardonnay. Vincent suggests serving this with a simple broiled fish dressed in butter and lemon — we also suggest lobster as an inspired pairing. And with snow back in the weather forecast today, we can’t think of anything more needed than a glass of rich, golden Meursault.

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BOYER-MARTENOT Meursault “Narvaux” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $62
3+ bottle price : $54/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    3-     6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Cool, Meaty Syrah-Blend from the Languedoc. $12.95

Value.  For the careful shopper, the Languedoc can be an abundant resource. Long deserving its reputation for mediocrity, the region has only recently become a source of value. There’s still plenty of bad wine made in the vast region, but if you make good choices, $13 will take you farther here than just about anywhere else.

The region’s best bargain may come from the Clos Bagatelle. This centuries-old domaine hails from the ancient town of St. Chinian, set high in the rock-strewn hills of the central Languedoc. Bagatelle grows syrah, carignan, and cinsault in a rocky schist soil that provides balance and minerality.

 

Fresh.  Bagatelle’s Cuvée Tradition 2014 is full of cool, stony fruit – there’s a dark berry freshness and lack of heat that’s hard to come by in much of the Languedoc. The palate offers fruit compote, meatiness, and hints of tobacco, but without high alcohol or palate-tiring heaviness.

This is a well-priced, crowd pleasing red — it’s the house red for several of our friends. It’s also a perfect transition red, for these weeks in March where the weather teeters between winter and spring. When cold air wins out, this provides an easy, rich accompaniment to to stews, hearty pastas, and other wintery fare. But once spring rolls around, this is an excellent match for the grill.

NOTE: The 2016 version of this wine is available through our March Futures issue.

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BAGATELLE Tradition 2014
Ansonia Retail: $15
case, half-case : $12.95/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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New Exceptional Red Burgundy from Michel Gros. $32

Star Power. Michel Gros is perhaps the most recognizable producer in our portfolio. His wines are all elegant and precise, often showing smoky or toasty qualities, and always silky and beautiful. A few years ago Clive Coates MW listed Michel Gros in the top 17 domaines in all of Burgundy — a list that included Romanée-Conti, Leroy, and Comtes Lafon — and highlighted the “nobility and elegance” of his wines.

Many of the domaine’s cuvées require both investment and patience, but not all of them. Gros makes a handful of wines from less famous zip codes — their vines receive the same care, with juice vinified in the same manner. These “petits vins” aren’t as complex or long-lived as Gros’s Clos Vougeot, but they offer a chance to sample the brilliance of the domaine at a more affordable price.

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Historic.  The Fontaine-Saint-Martin vineyard is named for an ancient Cistercian abbey nearby dating to 1127. The hillside of vines was in production for centuries, and more recently tended by Michel and his father for the last 40 years. Gros blended the wine from this plot into an Hautes-Côtes de Nuits until the 2014 vintage, when he determined the terroir was sufficiently distinctive to merit its own cuvée.

The Fontaine Saint Martin is indeed special — its soil is the same mix of marl, clay, and limestone found on the Hill of Corton. The nose is unusually dark and enticing for a Pinot Noir of its pedigree — look for black raspberry, violets, and a whisper of menthol. The mouth is crisp, full, and sturdy, with ripe young tannins that smooth out over a half-hour in the glass. Gros’s signature toasty notes join cassis and dried roses on the palate.

If you don’t already know them, we highly recommend sampling of Michel’s fancier wines some day — they can be truly extraordinary. But in the meantime, here’s a chance to get to know Gros on a friendlier level.

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MICHEL GROS “Fontaine Saint-Martin” red 2014
Ansonia Retail: $38
case, half-case : $32/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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2015 Premier Cru White Burgundy: A Triumph of Balance and Richness. $32

Opportunity.  Chablis remains one of the best bargains in the wine world. Forever playing second fiddle to the rest of Burgundy, the brand suffered damage from the jug-wine “California Chablis,” and has yet to recover fully. The wines themselves, however, have never been better.

Today we’re offering one of our favorites from Chablis — the premier cru Montée de Tonnerre. Considered one of the three finest premier crus in Chablis, Montée de Tonnerre produces dense, elegant wines year after year. Our source for this vineyard is the young winemaker Romain Collet, who has turned in an exceptional effort with the 2015 vintage.

Balance.  Record high temperatures in 2015 made ripening easy but harvest timing tricky. The Collet family was careful to pick early, retaining acidity in the fruit, and ensuring balance in the final product. The 2015 Montée de Tonnerre is a triumph — beautiful, long, rich mouthfeel, attractive ripe fruits, and a crisp lively acidity and minerality to maintain freshness.

Collet has expertly translated the rocky terroir of Chablis into this wine — the firm mineral core makes this wine vibrant and very intense. But thanks to 2015’s heat there’s a fleshiness reminiscent of Chassagne and Meursault. And while most village wines from those towns start north of $60, the “Chablis discount” brings this down close to half.

Look for notes of honey, lime rind, and salt air in the nose; the mouth shows intense, concentrated fruit, with notes of almond, pineapple, and herbs. Normally we suggest Chablis for a refreshing summertime white — but this is rich and elegant enough to enjoy while winter weather remains.

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COLLET Chablis 1er cru “Montée de Tonnerre” 2015
Ansonia Retail: $38
case, half-case : $32/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Violets and Cloves: “Perfectly Formed” 94 point New Côte Rotie

Inky.  The impossibly steep hillsides of the Côte Rôtie seem like the last place in the world to grow vines. With slopes reaching 60 degrees in places, all field work — planting, pruning, treating, harvesting — must be done entirely by hand. Every time we visit we wonder aloud what on earth would drive people to plant vines here.

And then we visit the Bonnefonds. Côte Rôtie syrah is unlike any other — at once dense and balanced, inky and crisp, mouthfilling and fresh. Christophe and his brother Patrick produce small batches of beautiful, concentrated syrah. Their domaine is a bit hard to find, but their wines are pure and fine; Robert Parker calls them “some of the finest in the appellation.”

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Rare.  Today’s offer is for one of their two top cuvées — the Côte Rôtie “Côte Roziers” 2014. Syrah simply doesn’t get any better than this. From a plot bordering the famous La Landonne, the Bonnefond brothers produce only 125 cases of their Côte Rozier per year. Think of a flabby, high-alcohol, warm weather shiraz — this is the opposite.

Côte Rôtie famously ages well, and this wine will rewards a decade or more of patience. But as Josh Raynolds of Vinous puts it, the Bonnefonds produce “some of the most extroverted Côte Rôties,” and these wines are also enjoyable young. Raynolds awarded the 2014 Roziers 92-94 points, calling it “extremely long,” “seamless in texture” and “powerful yet lithe.” Jancis Robinson’s reviewer called it “perfectly formed.”

We found a dark perfumed nose of violets, cloves, and black raspberries. The mouth is inky and long with sturdy tannins but an unmistakable elegance — the texture is dense and very fine. On the palate there’s cherry jam, black pepper, and a hint of smoke. With proper care and some patience, this can be every bit as rewarding as a well-aged red Burgundy.

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BONNEFOND Côte Rôtie “Côte Rozier” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $70
3+ bottles price: $59/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   3-    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Mixed Case: White Wines for Fish

Ever since one half of the Ansonia team relocated to the coast of Maine, our collective fish and shellfish consumption has risen rapidly. With fresh catches rolling in daily, it’s hard to avoid the stuff — and who would want to? Of course our white wine consumption has spiked as well, and we keep a handful of favorites at the ready for when the oysters or haddock in the local market looks particularly good.

But thanks to modern grocery infrastructure, you don’t have live on the water to enjoy its fruits. So if there’s room for fish in your diet, we’ve collected some of our favorite whites to pair: a classic Muscadet from the Loire, a floral white Burgundy from the Maconnais, and two traditional unoaked wines from Chablis. You choose the fish and preparation; we’re here to help with something for your glass.

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Martin-Luneau Muscadet “Clisson” 2012
This is from the new generation of Muscadet: cuvées held longer on the lees to gain mouthfeel and complexity. Look for notes of grape skin, salt air, and melon; pair with oysters.

Maillet Macon-Verzé 2014
Maillet’s pure, unoaked Chardonnay has a rich mouthfeel but excellent freshness as well. Look for notes of green tea, honeysuckle, and straw; serve with scallops and basil.

Collet Chablis 2015
Collet’s Chablis is pure, honest, and unadorned, full of brisk freshness and clean fruit. Look for ripe meyer lemon and minerals in the mouth; serve with broiled haddock.

Gautheron Chablis 1er cru Vaucoupin 2014
This premier cru Chablis is dense and concentrated, from a perfectly balanced vintage. Look for lemon zest, herbal notes, and a hint of saline; serve with breaded baked cod, or sushi.

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WHITE WINES FOR FISH

3x   Martin-Luneau Muscadet “Clisson” 2012:   $24
3x   Maillet Macon-Verzé 2014:   $30
3x   Collet Chablis 2015:   $24
3x   Gautheron Chablis 1er “Vaucoupin” 14:   $30


Ansonia Retail: $324
offer price: $269/case

free East Coast shipping    |    save $55

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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The Other White Burgundy: “Forget what you know about Aligoté.” $19

Forgotten. We’ve been on the hunt for a nice Aligoté for years. Forever in the shadow of the finest Chardonnays in the world, Burgundy’s “other white grape” is neither profound nor expensive. Most of our searches have yielded disappointments: wines with too much acid, too little body, or both.

But in June, we at last struck gold. Boyer-Martenot’s Aligoté is unlike any other we’ve had, with a rich mouthfeel and unusually complex bouquet. Vincent Boyer, a highly skilled craftsman of rich, elegant Meursault, has managed to add a bit of his magic to this grape. Forget what you know about Aligoté — Boyer’s is real white Burgundy.

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Smooth. Drawing from vines with an average age of over 40 years, and from the ripest vintage (2015) in a decade, Boyer’s Aligoté is smoother and rounder than any we’ve had. The secret is his use of 5- and 7-year-old barrels to age the wine — barrels too old to impart much oak flavor, but which aid in microoxygenation and add softness and depth.

In the nose Boyer’s 2015 Aligoté shows wild honey and herbs, with white flowers and classic green apple. The mouth is bright and lively, with a dry, chalky richness that’s nearly unheard of for Aligoté. For readers interested in making kir, we also managed to find an exceptional crème de cassis source last summer — a glass of this wine joined by a splash of cassis will be a fantastic match.

But, for once, the cassis isn’t mandatory — this is a crisp, pleasant glass of white Burgundy on its own.

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BOYER-MARTENOT Aligoté 2015
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case price: $19/bot

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AVAILABLE IN   6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.