There’s perhaps no cozier wine than a red from the Southern Rhône Valley. The most famous is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but many rich, excellent reds hail from the surrounding towns as well. At their best they provide similar depth and complexity but far better pricing.
Côtes-du-Rhônes are a dime a dozen these days, from bistro chalkboards in Paris to your local drugstore checkout counter. And as you might expect, not all Côtes-du-Rhônes are created equal. Among our very favorites is the Domaine Malmont’s version from Séguret. Malmont’s Côtes-du-Rhône is unique and delicious — richer and far more interesting than the […]
Cornas is a tiny appellation. Its 145 hectares (compare to Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s 3,133) are at the southern end of the Northern Rhône. The name Cornas comes from the Celtic word for “burnt earth,” and its grapes often ripen two weeks earlier than the rest of the region.
Merlot has had a rough decade. Though it plays a starring role in some of the world’s rarest and priciest wines (Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Ausone), the Sideways effect has dampened sales and made the grape unfashionable. And we’ll admit, there’s plenty of bland, boring Merlot out there.
We think grilling reds should to be three things: fruit forward, chillable, and inexpensive. Smoke flavor from the grill works well with a juicy foil. Cooked foods on a hot day pair with something a bit cool. And because grilling often means a crowd, we like to have something affordable around in quantity.
Most wines taste the way they appear. Light-colored wines tend to have light body, and dark, opaque wines are big and mouth filling. Our favorite exception to the rule is Northern Rhône Syrah: inky black wine with intense flavor but astonishing finesse.
We’d bet that many readers have garages bigger than the Domaine Malmont’s winemaking space. We work with some small-production winemakers, but even by our standards Malmont’s winery is tiny. The space attached to winemaker Nicolas Haeni’s house in Séguret looks more like a large tool shed than a winemaking operation.
Rosé’s popularity shows no signs of ebbing. We generally steer clear of winemaking fads, but even for us traditionalists it’s hard to deny the tastiness of cool rosé under a warm sun. Our criteria for rosé are threefold: dry, inexpensive, and refreshing.
In much of the world, Syrah is a powerful grape that produces soft wines with jammy fruit and low tannin. But in Northern Rhône Valley, the grape takes on an entirely different style. Grown at its northern ripening limit, Syrah finds a more elegant and balanced expression on the steep banks of the Rhône River south of Lyon.
We visited Denis Basset yesterday at his Domaine Saint Clair outside Tain l’Hermitage. He’s a friendly, energetic winemaker making truly excellent wines. (They’re a lot of flavor for 9:30 in the morning, but they wash the toothpaste right off your palate.)
We spent an enjoyable few hours on Nicolas Haeni’s charming backyard terrace yesterday. Haeni runs the Domaine Malmont, a tiny source in the Southern Rhône whose entire winemaking operation fits inside a small garage attached to his house. Under clear skies and a warm Provencal sun we tasted through Malmont’s recent cuvées.
We arrived yesterday afternoon in Provence. It’s lovely here -- the sun is warm, the light is crisp, and the wind whistles through the craggy olive trees. If we could bottle the feel of Provence and bring it back we certainly would. (Apologies to any readers who were at yesterday’s marathon -- that last paragraph may have been painful.)
Côtes du Rhône is one of the world’s most widely recognizable wine brands. There’s a wide range of styles out there, and we have favorites in many camps. For rustic and rugged we like the Domaine les Goubert. For refined and serious, we like the Domaine Malmont. But for easygoing, fruit-forward, and effortlessly drinkable, it’s hard to beat the Domaine…
Jacqueline André is unusually passionate about her vines. She refers to one plot of grenache planted in 1877 as her grandes dames; they were a gift from her grandfather, and today she treats them with extreme care and affection. The ancient rows are hardly straight, but the fruit they produce is of the highest quality,
With June-like temperatures earlier this week we were tempted to break out the rosé and declare summer’s arrival. But experience tells us we’re not done with winter yet. And with colder evenings in mind, we’re suggesting today one of our recent favorites, the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Christophe Mestre.