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Notes from Harpswell No. 11

This winter in Harpswell has me thinking about the ways that aquaculture is like viticulture. If you follow our posts you know that the French vignerons suffered the trials of Job in recent years — frost in some places, hail in others, or frost and hail for the particularly benighted. I am the holder of a Maine LPA (“limited purpose aquaculture” license) and the proud owner of two vintages of oysters (somewhere between four and five thousand, or as I like to think, more than 350 plates of half-shells). Our vignerons’ experiences make me wonder what nature might have in store for this rookie sea farmer.

 

 

Mainers think about their oysters in much the way the French think about their vineyards, with terroir at the heart of the matter. The place affects the flavor, producing oysters that are more briny or less so, fatter or leaner, depending on their location. Maine’s Côte d’Or is the Damariscotta estuary, where Maine’s best known oyster farms can be found and where the brackish and saltwater flows are particularly conducive to growing delicious oysters.

The waters off Maine are pristine but cold, which means oysters need three years to grow to the size you slurp in a restaurant. In temperate months, my oyster cages float a few football fields from my dock, just below the surface of Harpswell Sound and tethered in place by moorings and buoys. There they filter-feed on passing nutrients, soaking in the combination of food and salinity unique to the place and enhancing water quality in the bargain. For two Falls now, I have lowered my oyster cages to the floor of the Sound, wishing them a peaceful and healthy winter there.

 

 

Last winter was mild and easy — ice collected along the bank below our house as it always does, but the buoys floated free all winter. This year’s early and occasionally record lows extended the ice all the way across the Sound, locking in the buoys that both mark and tether my bottom-dwelling shellfish. My three moorings have no trouble keeping the cages in place during the summer, but I fretted about what might happen if a large ice floe locked around my buoys got a hankering to visit Portland. My mind was not eased when I saw ice drag four of a neighbor’s still-floating oyster cages and their mooring about 200 yards up the Sound and into my view.

 

 

So far, so good. The January thaw was intense and came with a few inches of rain, so the combination broke up all the ice over just a few days. My buoys shrugged off their captors, and as far as I can see remain exactly where they were last fall. But then half the winter lies ahead.

Our vignerons mostly met their disasters with a wistful smile, some repeating the old saw that a prudent producer needs to have three vintages: one in the vines, one in the cellar, and a third in the bank. Both of our oyster vintages are in the mud, not the bank or the cellar, but we plan to adopt a positive attitude anyway.

MW

 

 

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“Outstanding” Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin, with a hint of Vosne-Romanée.

The Domaine des Varoilles is the newest addition to our Burgundy portfolio. Based in Gevrey-Chambertin, the domaine boasts an extraordinary collection of vines, ranging from village-level to Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin.

Most interesting, perhaps, are their two premier cru monopoles at the western end of Gevrey-Chambertin. “Clos des Varoilles” and “La Romanée” sit side by side, with “La Romanée” up the slope, and the larger “Clos des Varoilles” further downhill. Only a small wall and a six-yard dirt path separate them (see photo) — but their characters are strikingly different.

 

 

Clos des Varoilles, for which the domaine is named, is prototypical Gevrey-Chambertin — rich, meaty, full-bodied, and intense. La Romanée, on the other hand, is elegant, subtle, and silky. If the Clos des Varoilles is an ambitious young pitcher throwing 100 mph, Romanée is a wise slow-ball veteran painting the corners of the zone.

We’re excited to release the domaine’s “La Romanée” 2014 today. This is still 1er cru Gevrey-Chambertin, mind you — so think concentrated, meaty wines with dense fruit and plenty of length. But it’s Gevrey-Chambertin with a splash of Vosne-Romané — there’s a finesse and and elegance that comes from the increased mineral content in the soils.

 

 

The 2014 Romanée is a wine whose best days are clearly in front of it. Today the nose shows gingerbread and cherries, with briary, brambly fruits and a pleasant toastiness. In the mouth this walks a beautiful line between robust Gevrey structure and elegant mineral notes. The tannins are perfectly extracted — intense and bold but not at all bitter or dry.

Burghound awarded 91 points, finding it “impressively concentrated” and calling it “a wine of finesse.” After revisiting the wine a year after his initial tasting, he named it “particularly outstanding” for its appellation.

Old vines (planted in the 1950s), exceptional terroir, expert winemaking, and an excellent vintage — all make it hard to find much wrong with this wine. It’s not exactly cheap, but the best in any category rarely is.

 

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Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “La Romanée” 2014

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2015 Northern Rhône Syrah: “the Best in 55 Years”

Much has been written about the 2015 vintage in Burgundy, one of the best in a generation. But the vintage also brought impressive wines from elsewhere in France. In particular, the syrah-based wines of the Northern Rhône had a banner year in 2015. Master of Wine Jancis Robinson writes she considers them them “the best in 55 years.”

We don’t open 1962 Hermitage very often, so we’ll have to take her word for it. But we can say that they’re extraordinary wines — inky, dark, and mouthfilling but with exceptional balance and refined tannins. If you’ve never gotten into the wines of the Northern Rhône, now’s a perfect time to try. And if you’re already a fan, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better vintage in your cellar.

 

 

The Northern Rhone is a geographic and stylistic halfway point between Burgundy and the South. The reds of the region combine Burgundy’s tradition of elegant, unblended wines with the South’s darker, richer grape varietals. The result is a marriage of Northern refinement and sun-baked Southern richness.

Denis Basset is a young winemaker who is passionate and very talented — the latest issue of the Guide Hachette featured two of his four wines, an impressive feat for a winemaker whose first vintage was only five years ago. His 2015 Crozes-Hermitage is a triumph — impossibly intense and concentrated, but at 13.5% alcohol a balanced and refreshing glass as well.

This wine gets better every time we open it. The color is a inky black-purple, with a savory nose showing cloves, blackberries and violets. The mouth is astonishingly dense, with young but polished tannins, and classic notes of plum and black pepper. The finish is long and mouthfilling. We might not see another vintage like this until 2072.

 

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Saint-Clair Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” 2015

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Delicious, Iconic New White from the Untamed Jura.

The Jura region has an untamed feel — sauvage, the French would say. The craggy landscapes, meandering rivers, and ancient stone towns make it hard to say whether it’s the 21st century or the 11th. It’s charming, in an undiscovered, unpolished sort of way.

Jura wines are a bit untamed as well. The region is most famous for its idiosyncratic “Vin Jaune,” a style of white wine that’s intentionally oxidized during its élevage. The result is a bit like a fino sherry, but with additional exotic notes. It’s one of the wine world’s iconic styles — a bit harder to find today than it used to be, but no less delicious.

The Domaine Ligier is a small family domaine in Arbois, the Jura’s principal town. Ligier makes traditional Jura wines — his unusual and delicious reds made from Trousseau and Poulsard have become popular among our readers. But today we’re at last releasing their traditional style of white made sous voile (“under the veil”).

 

 

Vin Jaune must age for six years below the veil of yeast, and to the uninitiated its flavors can be very unusual. To ease our readers into the style we decided to start with Ligier’s 2012 Savagnin — it’s aged only three years in barrel, and shows slightly less intense flavors.

And what are these unusual flavors? If you’re used to regularly made wine, they can be difficult to describe — we most find ourselves jotting notes like walnuts, curry, coffee, caramel and toast in the nose, with citrus zest, white pepper, and butter in the mouth. Fino sherry may come the closest.

This is a unique style wine, and certainly isn’t to everyone’s taste. But if you’re at all interested (or if you know these sous voile wines already) we strongly recommend Ligier’s 2012 Savignin. It pairs beautifully with charcuterie, crusty bread, and cheese, but its most perfect pairing is with a cheese fondue. Serve this Savignin with aged comté (melted or not), and you might feel a bit untamed yourself.

 

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Ligier Savagnin 2012

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“Bold” Red Burgundy: 100-year-old Vines, 93 points, $25.

Beaujolais is the source of plenty of uninteresting wine. Fully a third of the region’s production is the Beaujolais Nouveau, an insipid red rushed to market a month after harvest. But the region contains many undervalued wines, some in the same class of top wines from the north of Burgundy.

No Beaujolais source has more impressed us than Laurent Perrachon. From meticulously cultivated old vines and careful use of oak, Perrachon creates remarkably delicious and refined red Burgundies. We’re not the only ones to notice; the domaine is among the only Beaujolais producers reviewed (and praised) by both Josh Raynolds (Vinous) and Allen Meadows (Burghound).

These are honest, complex, delicious red Burgundies; they just happen to be made from Gamay.

 

 

Perrachon’s Juliénas “Vignes Centenaires” comes from vines planted more than a century ago. Perfectly extracted and carefully aged in oak barrels, this wine shows a dark, brooding nose of anise and blackberries. Burghound was effusive, awarding 93 points, finding “dark berry,” “spice” and “incense,” calling it “delicious, velvety and caressing.”

If you like Beaujolais for its fruity, carefree character, this might not be your cup of tea. Perrachon’s 2015 Juliénas is dense, rich, and exceptionally long, with far more stuffing than you find in most $35 Pinots from Santenay or Maranges. The tannins are juicy and silky but sturdy, meaning this should develop easily for another 5-8 years.

This wine has many happy days in front of it. But with a hearty meal, a carafe, and a few enthusiastic friends, this bottle is a stunner. Don’t mention it’s Gamay, and nobody will guess.

 

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Perrachon Juliénas “Centenaires” 2015

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Good luck keeping your hands off this one: Premier Cru 2015 Red Burgundy.

Morey-St-Denis sits in the shadow of its two more famous neighbors, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin. But to ignore its terroir would be a mistake. Wines from Morey are often described as “Burgundy lover’s wines” — their elegant, lace-like textures blend effortlessly with beautiful, clean fruit.

Brothers Didier and Jean-Louis Amiot make some of our favorite wines from Morey-St-Denis. Their domaine is right on the main street in the village, and their cuvées come with small quantities and, for the Côte de Nuits at least, reasonable price tags.

The Amiots’ style has shifted in recent years, and they’ve begun to make wines that drink better earlier. Combine that with the 2015s’ delicious early-drinking fruit, and you’ll find it hard to keep your hands off these wines. But you’ll thank us in a few years if you do.

 

 

As the name suggests, Amiot’s 2015 Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes” is charming. Large volume wine this is not — Amiot’s plot is just one acre, and their 50 year old vines produce only 200 cases per year. But the quality is simply exceptional.

Charmes is usually the first of Amiot’s premier crus to drink well, and though this should age gracefully for a decade or two, it’s already beautiful. Today the nose is very expressive, showing earthy tones mixed with woodsmoke and briary fruit. The mouth is long, silky, and very rich — the tannins are young but perfectly sculpted, with no dryness or bitterness.

Burghound also noted that the wine “should drink well young,” finding “fine richness” and calling the mouthfeel “supple and caressing.” Leaving this wine at the back of your cellar for a while will reward you handsomely. But fair warning — if an open bottle appears on your table in the next few months, you may need a bit more for the cellar.

 

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Amiot Morey-St-Denis 1er “Aux Charmes” 2015

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2016 Old-Vine Beaujolais: “For Drinking, Not Contemplating.” $19

We work with many winemakers with low profiles, but Jean-Marc Monnet might be the least visible. He has no roadside, no website, and no other American importer. We’ve gotten lost trying to find his domaine two years in a row. Jean-Marc himself is as humble as his winery is hidden, but the wines themselves are a wholly different story.

Beaujolais has long been known for its unserious wines — over-marketed and under-cared-for. But Monnet’s Beaujolais has the complexity of a very good Côte d’Or Bourgogne and the density of a Northern Rhône syrah. 2016 was a low yield year for the Beaujolais — hail and frosts damaged much of the crop. But what the vintage lacks in quantity it more than makes up for in quality.

Monnet’s reds are intense and perfectly extracted — the fruit is almost teeth-stainingly dense, but with no hint of bitterness. They look and feel like syrah in the mouth, but the fruit is red and juicy.

Monnet’s Juliénas Vieilles Vignes is like his other wines, but more so. From 50+ year old vines and a ripe vintage, the density is exceptional. The color is inky purple, with a dark nose showing raspberry and pure wild cherry. The mouthfeel is intense and smooth with a long, dense finish of cranberry, minerals and violets. This is delicious, and as Jancis Robinson puts it, “meant to be drunk, not contemplated.”

 

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Monnet Juliénas Vieilles Vignes 2016

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2015 Côte de Nuits Red Burgundy: Earth and Cassis

The Domaine Ravaut is the ultimate local wine source. For 120 years the family has cultivated a loyal clientele of friends, neighbors, and workers at the stone quarry in the hamlet of Ladoix. Though they have expanded their reach in recent years, they still sell more than half of their wine to folks who walk in the front door.

The winemaker today is Vincent Ravaut, a friendly, thirtysomething son who has mastered cellar work. His diligence and careful attention during vinification and aging results in wines of perfect balance. Ravaut’s 2015s have all the clean precision we’ve come to appreciate, plus unusually complex and ripe fruit.

 

 

Today we’re suggesting Ravaut’s 2015 Côte de Nuits Villages, from vines near the border with the Côte de Beaune. The 2015 is succulent and juicy, with bursting tannins and dark, pure fruit. Think the joie-de-vivre of a Cru Beaujolais with the refinement and class of Pinot Noir. Jancis Robinson agreed, finding it “robust” with a “fine, chalky texture” and “excellent freshness.”

Like most of the 2015 red Burgundies, this is a delightful, refreshing glass on its own. The nose shows raspberry jam, graphite, and cassis — it’s a seductive and utterly pleasant bouquet. But the ripe tannins are an excellent match for food, with notes of plum and earth on a persistent, lively finish. Serve this with a roast chicken on a Sunday afternoon.

 

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Ravaut Côte de Nuits-Villages 2015

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Inky Syrah, Wild Yeasts, and the Purest Form of Winemaking. $25

Winemaking began in the Languedoc around 125 BC, and over the last two millennia, little has changed in the basic chemistry. Though the last century saw the advent of new chemicals and measurements, winemaking is still the combination of grapes, yeast, and time.

The winemakers at the Mas Foulaquier return to this simple alchemy. Their pesticide-free vineyards are archetypes of polyculture, with wildflowers and insects at home amid the rows of vines. And it’s from these vibrant vineyards that the winemakers obtain both elements of the winemaking process — untreated grapes from the vines, and wild yeasts from the skins and ambient air.

This is winemaking in its purest, most original form, and the results are wines of remarkable complexity and grace.

 

 

Winemaking without much vineyard treatment or controlled yeast strains is not easy, and the results can be variable. But the winemakers at Foulaquier are deeply dedicated to their craft and their wines are proof that hard work and care pay off. These are some of the finest biodynamic wines we import.

Today we’re suggesting Foulaquier’s “Calades” a syrah-dominant wine of a beautiful dark, inky hue. In the nose this wine could almost be mistaken for a Northern Rhône Syrah, with the grape’s signature black pepper, blackberry, and dark chocolate. But in the mouth this is unmistakably Foulaquier — a symphony of cool, earthy, jammy notes like plum and lavender — at once mouthfilling and balanced.

This wine perfectly captures the northern Languedoc’s ruggedly beautiful landscape, a blend of silky elegance and rustic earthiness.

 

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Foulaquier Calades 2014

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Delicious New Premier Cru 2015 Red Burgundy: 91 Points, “Intense and “Vibrant”

The 2015 red Burgundies are nothing short of a sensation. After months of hype and a frenzy of enthusiasm upon release, they’ve lived up to nearly all of their acclaim. With sturdy tannins suggesting long and happy lives, the wines also offer near-term hedonistic delight — the best are juicy, lively, and, as the French say, gouleyant (gulpable).

No domaine’s wines better capture the tension between ageworthiness and drinkability than those of Roger Belland. The house style is always fruit forward — ripe, punchy, juicy mouthfeels are consistent from one year to another. But even for Belland, their 2015s offer unusually pleasant early drinking.

In our fast-paced world, cellaring wine has become increasingly rare. But with Belland’s wines, there’s no wrong answer — they are delicious now, and will be even more so in 5 years.

 

 

Master of Wine Clive Coates called Roger Belland “one of the best sources in the village” of Santenay. Though it’s often an afterthought on Côte d’Or maps, Belland’s wines are proof that Santenay can be classic, majestic red Burgundy.

Belland’s finest premier cru Santenay is from the “la Comme” vineyard, just on the northern border with Chassagne-Montrachet. This is Santenay at its most elegant, combining the silky precision of a Volnay with the vibrant character of red Chassagne — think minerals, dried cherries, plum, and herbs. Burghound awarded 91 points, finding it “elegant” and “harmonious,” with “pretty floral nuance,” and “delicious, intense and vibrant flavors.”

Belland’s wines are so drinkable from the start that they’re hard to age — our last bottle, opened 4-5 years after harvest, is often the best of the batch. If you’ve got the cellar space, put down half a case and drink the other six this year. Life is short, after all.

 

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Belland Santenay 1er cru “la Comme” 2015

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Your New House Red: Everyday Organic Chianti. $18

We often recommend wines intended for a specific time or place. A carefully aged Burgundy for a Christmas roast; a stony Chablis for a plate of summer oysters — a precise wine pairing for a dish or setting can elevate both.

But wine should also be a reliable part of an ordinary dinner. We like to keep such “house wines” around — versatile, crowd pleasing bottles you can reach for without much thought. White Burgundies are usually our go-to for whites; and last week’s Côtes du Rhône is an excellent everyday red.

But for some geographic diversity, we’re hard-pressed to find someone that doesn’t enjoy the Fattoria Poggerino’s simplest wine: Il Labirinto.

 

 

Poggerino splits the Chianti Classico vines into older and younger parcels, bottling the former as “Chianti Classico” and the latter as “Il Labirinto”. The 2014 Classico, which will arrive in a month or so, is excellent. But Labirinto is vat raised and released earlier, and the 2014 is in stock and delicious. Labirinto’s “young” vines are now 35-years old, making this a Classico-quality wine that is an astounding bargain for the price.

The Labirinto 2014’s nose is very ripe and juicy, with plum and sweet cherry notes. The mouth is earthy, and vibrant, with sturdy tannins sanded down after a few years in the bottle, forming a smooth patina of fruit jam. Jancis Robinson calls the 2014 “round and fresh” and “very authentic” with “masses of ripe fruit.”

This is lively and pleasantly drinkable on its own, but like most wines, it’s best enjoyed with the other fruits of its home terroir. Try a homemade pizza (good recipe for the dough here) or a pasta with a tomato based sauce.

 

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Poggerino Labirinto 2014

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Exquisite 95-Point 2015 Côte Rôtie: Old Vines, Legendary Terroir, “Superb”

Christophe Bonnefond is a quiet man. Our tastings with him each year are pleasant and friendly, but he’s not what you’d call a “talker”. He’s happy to answer questions, but rarely volunteers information, preferring to let his wines speak for themselves.

His wines are anything but quiet. They’re dense, concentrated, and immaculately crafted — pure syrah in its most powerful and impressive form. Bonnefond’s finest two parcels are located on either side of “La Landonne,” the legendary vineyard on the famous slopes of the Côte Rôtie.

Today we’re suggesting Bonnefond’s 2015 Côte Rôtie “Les Rochains.” It’s a magnificent wine — an extraordinary vintage, 50-75 year old vines, and an intense winemaker style. This is Northern Rhône syrah at its finest — inky black fruits, a lingering mouthfeel, and all at 13% alcohol.

 

 

Bonnefond’s Côte Rôties age marvelously — we’ve had them 10 and 15 years out and they’re simply delicious. Today this wine shows red cherries, licorice, black pepper, cloves, and leather — in a decade or two it will add earthy, woodsy notes along with iodine, soy, and dried flowers.

Vinous’s Josh Raynolds called this “densely packed yet elegant,” a phrase we think perfectly distills the wine’s essence. He awarded 93-95 points, finding the nose “expansive,” and “exotically perfumed” with “black and blue fruits, violet, woodsmoke and olive.”

Put this in the back of our cellar and you’ll call us in 15 years to ask why you didn’t buy more. Open one today with a decanter, and you’ll call us next week to see how much we have left.

 

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Bonnefond Côte Rôtie “Les Rochains” 2015

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The Perfect Everyday Côtes-du-Rhône. $15

For a crowd-pleasing red, it’s hard to beat Côtes du Rhône. Guests with New World leanings will appreciate the richness and full flavor. Those with Old World inclinations will appreciate the balance and style. It’s a wine nearly everyone will enjoy without too much thought.

Most Rhône Valley vignerons make a Côtes du Rhône alongside their other wines, and the Domaine les Goubert is no exception. Well known for their Gigondas and Gigondas “Cuvée Florence,” Goubert’s star continues to rise as the family’s 30-something daughter Florence Cartier takes over more winemaking responsibilities.

Goubert’s wine has always been good, but with Florence at the helm it seems to get better every year.

 

 

We think a Côtes du Rhône should be three things: inexpensive, dark, and well balanced. Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône fits this description nicely. It’s relatively low in alcohol, which keeps it fresh and lively on the palate. Six grapes — Terret Noir, Picpoul, and Vaccarèse with the familiar Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan — form a hearty dark wine. And finally, a Côtes du Rhône should be inexpensive enough to pull out at a moment’s notice: at $15/bot, this is a wine to enjoy without planning.

It’s a by-the-glass wine for your kitchen, something to enjoy during the preparation and enjoyment of a meal. Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône is very expressive, showing dark wild cherries, raspberries, and a hint of minerality. The mouth is both jammy and refreshing, with notes of white pepper, licorice, and plums.

Serve this with anything from hamburgers to our favorite pasta: oil, garlic, red pepper flakes, and ample grated parmesan.

 

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Goubert Côtes-du-Rhône 2016

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The Best Value in White Burgundy.

We find some of our favorite values in towns just off the beaten path. The neighbor villages of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are the world’s best known sources for fine white wine. But just two miles to the west lies the often-overlooked town of Saint-Aubin, which turns out to be an exceptional source for value in white Burgundy.

The Thomas family has an intimate knowledge of the terroir of St-Aubin, where they’ve lived and made wine for over 70 years. Together with his two daughters, Gérard makes understated, highly affordable wines that are consistently delicious. They’re usually too drinkable to last very long in our cellars, but we managed to forget about a few cases of the 2013. It’s just beautiful today.

 

 

The 2013 St-Aubin “Champ Tirant” is a pure expression of a single terroir. A few years in the bottle has given it an impressive grace and poise. The nose shows delicate yellow fruits and muted toasty notes like baked lemon and almond. The mouth retains enough freshness to help pair it beautifully with food, but enough richness and stuffing to make it drink like a far pricier wine.

Food pairings for white Burgundy are easy. According to Sommelier Rajat Parr, who calls St-Aubin a source “for some of the best-value Chardonnay in the world,” white Burgundy pairs best “with oilier and meatier poached fish like halibut, salmon, monkfish, cod and grouper.” Monkfish is a particular favorite at our house, particularly Thomas Keller’s Roasted Monkfish with butter and rosemary.

We also love this with whole roasted chicken. Cook the bird with rosemary, lemon, and garlic, and enjoy the smells from the kitchen as they meld into the aromas from the glass.

 

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Thomas St-Aubin 2013

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New St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé: Bold, Assertive, Delicious.

Named for an 8th century Breton hermit monk, the medieval town of St-Emilion has long been a center for winemaking. Viticulture there dates to at least 275 AD, when Roman soldiers cleared the local forest and replaced it with vines.

Today Saint-Emilion and its neighbor Pomerol dominate the right bank of Bordeaux’s bifurcated winegrowing region. The wines here are Merlot-based, often blended with Cabernet Franc. The pace and scale of the right bank resembles Burgundy more than the large producers of Bordeaux’s left bank, and some generous Saint-Emilion makes a great addition to our Burgundy-dominated cellars.

 

 

For many years now our source for classic Saint-Emilion has been the Chateaux Destieux and Montlisse, the projects of biopharma-exec-turned-winemaker Christian Dauriac. Montlisse, a Grand Cru, is a delicious wine at an approachable price. (See Montlisse 2014.) But for special occasions, the Grand Cru Classé Destieux is a noticeable and impressive step up.

The 2014 Destieux is bold and rich — it’s not a wine you forget about while drinking. Decanter Magazine found “Dense, ripe plummy fruit. Slightly jammy aspect. Long and firmly structured.” We found notes of plums, cedar, licorice and leather. Decant an hour or so before serving, and pair it with a rich stew or a fine cut of beef. Subtle this is not; delicious it is.

 

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Destieux Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2014

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