The wines of Volnay are all about finesse. Setting a perfect foil to the rich, meaty wines of its neighbor Pommard, Volnay creates subtlety and elegance. The soils of Volnay are unusually rich in limestone, and the resulting wines have a distinctive lace-like minerality. As Rajat Parr puts it, “Volnay makes some of the most charming and delightful red wines of the Côte d’Or.”
Our favorite kale to use for this recipe is Lacinato Kale, which also goes by “black”, “dinosaur”, or “Tuscan” kale. It’s that sturdy, dark green (almost blue) kale that almost looks rubbery. Initially found in Italy and used most famously in minstrone soup, Lacinato kale was also grown in Jefferson’s garden at Monticello.
Many domaines imbue their wines with a distinct style, but at the Domaine Quivy the wines are unusually close expressions of their source. Gérard Quivy is a well dressed fifty-something winemaker, whose domaine is an impeccably restored 18th century manor house in Gevrey Chambertin. Quivy’s wines are similarly polished and elegant, as meticulous and refined as their maker and domaine.
The Côte de Nuits is the northern half of Burgundy’s famous Côte d’Or. This narrow 15-mile strip of land is home to nearly all of Burgundy’s greatest red wine vineyards. Wine has been made on this hallowed slope for over a thousand years, and today it produces the world’s finest expression of Pinot Noir.
The Jura region is only an hour east of Burgundy, but the feel is totally different. The gently sloping hills of Burgundy turn to craggy outcroppings, the forests become denser, and the accent turns faintly Swiss. The whole region feels a bit less tamed than its famous neighbor, and the wines follow suit.
Here in the US, we’re wary of monopolies. But in Burgundy, at least in the winemaking world, they’re championed. A mônopole is the unusual circumstance where one vigneron owns an entire vineyard. After centuries of splitting holdings among inheriting sons, a single-owner vineyard is rare.
The French drink much more sparkling wine than we do. Chez nous, we’ve been trying our best to imitate them — serving sparkling wines at the beginning of a dinner, paired with creamy dish, or just as an after-work aperitif. But if you need a celebration to pop a cork, there’s no shortage of them over the next few weeks.
The February Notebook is a collection of articles written by the staff at Ansonia Wines. In this month’s Notes from Harpswell, Mark discusses wintery life on the coast of Maine. Isaiah’s column Depot Journal focuses on winter in the vineyards. February’s Notebook Sale features twenty wines, all 25%-50% off.
Most grapes reach their finest expression at their northern ripening limit. The Pinot Noir of Burgundy; the Riesling of Germany’s Mosel Valley; the Chardonnay of Chablis; the Syrahs of the Northern Rhone — many of the greatest wines in the world hail from their grape’s northernmost ripening latitude. To that list we add today’s wine made from pure Viognier: Condrieu.
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PERRACHON Saint-Amour 2015
MONTEZ Condrieu 2015
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In France, Saint-Amour is known as the most “romantic” of the Beaujolais Crus. Located at the northern end of the Beaujolais region, it’s neither the richest nor the most tannic wine of the region. But the wines from this Cru possess a silky, enchanting quality. Whether it’s the amorous name or the smooth berry fruit, there’s always something charming about Saint-Amour.
This is a perfect match for Red Burgundy — duck is a red meat with mild flavors that marry perfectly with Pinot’s earthiness and wild cherries. Bell and Evans makes a great frozen duck breast product, often available at Whole Foods.
The Domaine Ravaut is the ultimate local wine source. For 120 years the family has cultivated a loyal clientele of friends, neighbors, and workers at the stone quarry in thee hamlet of Ladoix. Though they have expanded their reach in recent years, they still sell more than half of their wine to clients who walk in the front door.
Burgundy isn’t known for its inexpensive wines. A limited growing area and perpetually high demand make it hard to find bottles below $30. For most wine drinkers Burgundies are special occasion wines — elegant and ageworthy, but too pricey for a Wednesday.
Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet get most of the white Burgundy press. But surrounding towns can offer excellent value. Many whites from St-Aubin and Santenay punch way above their weight, as does today’s white Burgundy from Auxey-Duresses.