Spend even a few days tasting Burgundy, and the power of terroir is hard to miss. From a single grape, planted across a 30 mile collection of towns, comes an astonishing array of wines. Cellar work, weather, harvest times, and other factors play a role in the final product, but in Burgundy, location (terroir) is king.
Vintages play an important role in the style of wine. Each vintage has its own character, a result of weather patterns, harvest dates, and temperature swings. Some are difficult, requiring regular intervention to from the winemaker. Others are easy, where everything seems to go right.
Our focus on Burgundy means we taste a lot of Pinot Noir. From simple regional wines to ageworthy Grand Cru, the spectrum of that single grape is impressive. But a few of our Pinot Noirs come from outside even Burgundy’s wide range. Though it’s grown all over France, our favorite non-Burgundian expressions of the grape are Alsatian.
When most people think French sauvignon blanc, they think Sancerre. But the grape also thrives in Bordeaux. Loire Valley Sauvignon blanc (known as simply “Sauvignon” in France) is exuberant and fruit forward, showing the friendly, outgoing side of the grape. It’s not that Bordeaux’s version is unfriendly, just perhaps a bit cooler and more intellectual.
After a long and snowy winter, it seems Spring has at last arrived in the northeast. We avoid rigid rules for seasonal drinking — sometimes the moment calls for Chablis in December, or a Châteauenuf in June. But with the arrival of warm, sunny days, we find ourselves reaching for a certain style of wine.
We have heard it said that there aren’t bad vintages in Burgundy any more. Modern technology and techniques mean that even in difficult years winemakers are able to craft well-made wines. But undoubtedly some years are better than others, and 2015 is one of the best.
We don’t know about you, but the warmer weather this weekend felt pretty nice to us. With green shoots emerging from the soggy ground and baseball back in season, we seem to have turned a corner towards spring. Rosé season is not quite here, but it’s not far off either.
The city of Beaune is the beating heart of Burgundy. Set at the midpoint of the Côte d’Or, this ancient town has been a viticultural hub for thousands of years. Though it’s surrounded by vines, the wines of the Beaune appellation have never been as famous as neighbors Pommard and Volnay to the south or Corton to the north.
Grape varietals often get their names from a visible aspect of their fruit. The name Sauvignon blanc comes from sauvage (“wild”) because its leaves resemble those of wild grape vines. Pinot Gris refers to the blue-gray (gris) color of its grapes. But our favorite varietal (etymologically speaking) has to be Sangiovese — a wine so inky and black that it is named for the “blood of Jove.”
There is no more underappreciated wine than Riesling. Many US consumers, burned by syrupy Rieslings with no life and too much sugar, have sworn off the grape. But for lovers of dry wine, there’s enough bone-dry Riesling out there to make Riesling avoidance foolhardy. Tall skinny bottle + “Riesling” ≠ sweet.
The towns of Volnay and Pommard are the two finest red wine towns in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune. Hugh Johnson describes Volnay as “fragrant and ethereal,” Pommard as “dark” and “potent.” Together they’re a perfect example of the power of Burgundian terroir: they share a border and the towns themselves are less than a mile apart, but their identifying characteristics are nearly opposite.
Burgundies are not getting any cheaper. With limited supply and ever-increasing demand, good values are harder and harder to find. But one Burgundian town that continues to deliver far more than people expect is St-Aubin. And we’re not the only ones to notice.
Grenache is one of the most important grape varietals in France. It plays a leading role in the finest wines of the Southern Rhône and Languedoc, and usually joins syrah, mourvèdre or carignan in a blend. Known for its pure cherry fruit and potential for complexity, it’s sometimes called the Pinot Noir of the South.
“Natural” wines can be hard to get right. While we applaud winemakers who employ such rigorous respect for their land, the results are far from consistent. When they’re off, they can be unpredictable and flawed. But when they’re good, they can be extraordinary — the best are pure expressions of terroir with unmatched complexity and energy.
Ansonia Weekly Video Update: March 28
SAINT CLAIR Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” 2015
FOULAQUIER Violetta 2015
MIXED CASE: Grenache Sampler
THOMAS St-Aubin 2015