Author: Thomas Wilcox
The Only Côtes-du-Rhône You Need. $12.95
Ubiquitous. For a universally crowd-pleasing red, it’s hard to beat Côtes du Rhône. Guests with New World leanings will appreciate the richness and full flavor. Those with Old World inclinations will appreciate the balance and traditional style. (Your great aunt who likes drugstore merlot might turn up her nose, but you weren’t going to please her anyway.)
This year, the simplest Côtes du Rhône in our lineup might also be one of the best. The Domaine les Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône is always pleasant and refreshing — with dark fruit, juicy tannins, and a clean finish. But in 2015, a year when a very warm summer produced exceptional ripeness, it’s unusually rich and smooth.
We’d guess most readers would be thrilled with this wine at $20/bot — it’s rich and clean and velvety, with far more energy than most reds at your local store. At under $13 per bottle, it might be the only Côtes du Rhône you need.
Rules. Our criteria for good Côtes du Rhône are threefold: inexpensive, dark, and balanced. Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône hits all three points. It’s low in alcohol, which keeps it fresh and lively on the palate. The blend of six grapes — Terret Noir, Picpoul, and Vaccarèse join the familiar Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan — forms a rich, hearty, dark wine. And finally, a Côtes du Rhône should be inexpensive enough to pull out at a moment’s notice: at $13/bot, this is a wine to enjoy without planning.
This is a great by-the-glass wine for your kitchen, something to enjoy during the preparation and enjoyment of a meal. The 2015 is very expressive, showing dark wild cherries, raspberries, and licorice. The mouth is both jammy and refreshing, with notes of white pepper, minerals, and plums. Serve this with anything from hamburgers to our favorite pasta: oil, garlic, red pepper flakes, and ample grated parmesan.
Keep a few of these around for when you don’t know what else to serve. Your guests won’t believe what you paid for it.
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GOUBERT Côtes-du-Rhône 2015
Ansonia Retail: $15
case, half-case: $12.95/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Crisp, Dry, and Elegant: a New Generation of Muscadet. $19
Saltair. Perched where the Loire river meets the windswept Atlantic coast, Muscadet has long been a source for a classic, dry white wine. Served by the carafe in the oyster bars of Paris and London for decades, it’s refreshing, abundant, and inexpensive — a perfect glass to wash down a plate of crustaceans.
In the last few years Muscadet has undergone a reinvention of sorts with the elevation of three of the region’s best towns to a new “Cru Communal” status. Today’s wine comes from one of these three leaders in the new wave of Muscadet. Combining excellent terroir with extended years on the lees, this is an unusually complex take on a classic.
Maritime. Martin-Luneau is a fourth generation family domaine farming old vines on the plains south of Nantes. Their 2012 Muscadet “Clisson” is the best wine we’ve imported yet from them — a marriage of the brisk, refreshing essence of the sea, with the delicate herbal and fruit flavors of western France. This is not your grandfather’s Muscadet — it’s a new generation’s take on a classic French staple.
The nose of the 2012 Clisson is clean and pure, showing dried flowers, melons, and lemon. The mouth is smooth and very dry, with notes of stones, salt air, and apple skins. Oysters are the longstanding pairing of choice with Muscadet, and the thick savoriness in this wine is an exceptional foil for the fresh brineyness of an oyster.
The winemakers themselves recommend serving this with a simple moules marinières, made with shallots, parsley, thyme, butter and, of course, Muscadet. As you might expect, the match is magnificent.
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MARTIN-LUNEAU Muscadet “Clisson” 2012
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case: $19/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
January Futures has been released.
New Weeknight Red Burgundy: Dense, Exuberant Pinot Noir. $25
Rugged. Burgundy is best known for its wines of refinement and elegance. The delicate, often ethereal Pinot Noirs from towns like Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny are known the world around for their beauty and uniqueness. But there’s a whole other world of red Burgundy south of the Côte d’Or.
The red Burgundies of the Côte Chalonnaise are less serious and less expensive, but no less Burgundian. They capture the region’s friendly, welcoming spirit, trading elegance for rusticity, and polish for vigor. Today’s wine, a 2014 Givry 1er cru, perfectly embodies this amiable side of Pinot Noir.
Tasty. The Domaine Desvignes is a small, family-run operation in the heart of Givry. Twenty-something winemaker Gautier Desvignes has recently taken over, and the wines improve each year. The 2014 Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé” is charming, combining the a bit of the exuberance of neighboring Beaujolais with the refinement of northern Pinot Noir.
After a half-hour in a decanter this wine is hard to put down. The nose shows dark plum jam and beautiful complexity — look for pan drippings, mushrooms, and earth. The mouth is lively and smooth, with great density, and a long, clean, cherry compote finish.
If you’re a fan of red Burgundy and like to drink Chambolle every night, give us a call — we can help. But for everyone else, we submit this as a delicious and affordable weeknight red Burgundy.
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DESVIGNES Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $30
case, half-case: $25/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Mixed Case: Cold Weather Reds
When temperatures plunge and frigid winds whip around our house, we like to fill our glasses with something rich and mouthfilling. For us that means wines made from Grenache, Syrah, and others from the Rhône Valley. These are cozy wines from the sunbaked climes of France’s south — reds with depth and intensity, though carefully balanced to avoid heaviness.
So today we’ve put together a mixed case of Cold Weather Reds. These are either pure Grenache, pure Syrah, or a blend of the two. They average about $22/bot, so should lend themselves nicely to weeknight enjoyment. Pair them with stews and hearty pastas, or a book, an armchair, and a blanket.
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MAUCOIL Cuvée 1895 2014
This 100% Grenache cuvée comes from vines planted over 120 years ago, just outside Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s rich, smooth, and generous, with notes of wild cherries and licorice.
GOUBERT Beaumes-de-Venise 2015
This is a Grenache-Syrah-Cinsault blend, from a master of Southern Rhône winemaking. Look for dark, earthy notes, strawberry jam, herb honey, and a beautiful, weathered mouthfeel.
MALMONT Seguret 2015
Malmont’s Greanche-Syrah blend is very long and rich, with the concentration and structure found in much fancier wines. Look for lavender, cassis, black pepper, and raspberry jam.
SAINT CLAIR Crozes-Hermitage 2014
This is a pure Syrah wine from the southern end of the Northern Rhône. There’s savory black fruit and bacon in the nose; the mouth is vibrant and dark, with notes of violets and blackberries.
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COLD WEATHER REDS
3x MAUCOIL “Cuvée 1895” 2014: $30
3x GOUBERT Beaumes-de-Venise 2015: $22
3x MALMONT Séguret 2015: $30
3x SAINT CLAIR Crozes-Hermitage 2014: $28
Ansonia Retail: $330
offer price: $265/case
free East Coast shipping | save $65
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Advance Order: “Overperforming” 2012 Red Burgundy, 40% off
Thatch and tweed. If Vosne-Romanée is the paragon of Burgundian sophistication, then neighbor Nuits-St-Georges has the humbler charm of a country gentleman. Spread across five miles of varied terroir, the wines of Nuits-St-Georges range from spiced and elegant to meaty and rich. But most consider “classic” Nuits to come from the section south of town, which contains the “les Saint Georges” vineyard.
Today’s wine is from Michel Gros, a master winemaker based in nearby Vosne-Romanée. His Nuits-St-Georges “les Chaliots” comes from south of the village, just a hundred yards from the famous “Saint Georges.” It’s quintessential Nuits-St-Georges, with the signature richness and sturdiness found in the heart of the appellation.
We’ve managed to secure the last few cases of the excellent 2012 NSG Chaliots still in Gros’s cellar. We’ll be bringing it in with the January Futures (to be released next Sunday), but we’re opening up the bidding early; if there’s any left by Sunday we’ll include it in the Futures brochure.
Exquisite. Pinot Noir from Burgundy may not be known for its boldness, but this is not a wine that’s easy to forget. In 2012, an extremely low-yield vintage made for wines of unusual depth and concentration. This wine has Gros’s signature style, with an enticing, silky bouquet of redcurrants and licorice. In the mouth it’s meaty and dense, showing cassis, toast, plum, and a bit of game.
Jancis Robinson listed Gros as one of five “overperforming” red Burgundy producers in 2012. Burghound (Allen Meadows) called the 2012 Chaliots “complex, balanced, and lingering,” finding a “velvety mouthfeel” and “fine volume.” With four years in the bottle, this has begun to drink extraordinarily well, but it will improve over another 3-4 years in the cellar, if you can keep your hands off it.
Today, given a half hour in a carafe or decanter, this wine will transport you to the Burgundy of centuries ago — think woven tapestries, roasted meats, and ancient stone chateaux. Speaking of roasted meats, this bottle matches perfectly with a steak — use a cast-iron skillet and finish it in the oven.
In short, this is a rare shot at exquisite red Burgundy, four years on from the harvest, with perfect cellaring and 40% off retail (thanks, Euro:Dollar). As always, orders are first come, first served.
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GROS Nuits-St-Georges “Chaliots” 2012
Ansonia Retail: $816/case
Futures Price: $495/case ($41.25/bot)
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AVAILABLE BY THE CASE AND HALF CASE
This is an advance order, part of the January Futures program, which will be released 1/15/17
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Saturday Recipe: Marcella’s Veal Stew with Sage
More Excellent 2014 White Burgundy. $26
Balance. The 2014 whites were a gift to Burgundian winemakers. Though quantities were somewhat low, the quality of the grapes was universally excellent. As Master of Wine Jasper Morris put it recently, “an all-round consistently beautiful vintage for whites… at all levels and across all the districts of Burgundy.”
It’s the exceptional balance we find most appealing in the 2014 white Burgundies — there’s a near-perfect ratio of richness and acidity. Even away from the famous three towns — Chassagne, Puligny, and Meursault — beautiful white Burgundy abounds. Today’s offer is from a quiet producer in a town you’ve likely never heard of; but if you like white Burgundy, we know you’ll like this too.
Under the radar. The charming and jovial Michel Prunier (pictured) makes uncomplicated, delicious wines from his Domaine in Auxey-Duresses. Together with his daughter Estelle, Prunier has built his domaine into what Clive Coates MW calls “certainly the best grower in the village.” Today we’re offering Prunier’s 2014 Chorey-les-Beaune “Clos Margot,” from just north of the city of Beaune.
The Clos Margot is lively and round — the nose is pretty and delicate, with white flowers and pear fruit. The mouth is smooth and mid-length, with far more complexity and depth than most everyday Burgundies. This is honest, vibrant, delicious white Burgundy at a weeknight price.
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PRUNIER Chorey-les-Beaune “Clos Margot” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $32
case, half-case: $26/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Smooth, Uncomplicated Côtes-du-Rhône. $14.95
Easy. Some wines we import are meant for grand occasions. These are the famous wines of Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne — bottles to pull from the back of the cellar when the moment is significant. Over the past few weeks we opened a few such bottles, enjoying the magical effect of time on a bottle of wine.
Today’s offer is not for that sort of wine. The Sablet from the Domaine les Goubert fits best in an unexceptional moment — something to reach for after a long day of work, or a cozy companion for that new season on Netflix. It hits a sweet spot between balance, versatility and price. This is a wine you don’t need to think hard about to enjoy.
By-the-glass. Goubert’s Sablet is the house red for many of our readers and friends. It’s a Côtes du Rhône Villages, a notch up from a simple Côtes du Rhône, and shows more stuffing and a noticeably smoother mouthfeel. The 2015 is particularly ripe and rich, showing dark raspberry fruits, hints of leather and spice, and a full but nicely balanced mouthfeel.
Food isn’t necessary with Sablet — it’s a perfect by-the-glass wine that drinks well right out of the bottle — yet it certainly won’t clash with something from the kitchen. We serve the Sablet with everything from spicy garlic pasta (cool the wine a bit before serving), to a hearty salad or a bowl of French Onion Soup with a crusty piece of bread.
Goubert’s Sablet won’t win prizes for profundity or longevity, but it’s among the most popular wines we’ve ever imported. Save the $200 Grand Crus for anniversaries or birthdays — Goubert’s Sablet will fit just about everywhere else.
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GOUBERT Sablet 2015
Ansonia Retail: $18
case, half-case: $14.95/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Ansonia Video Update: January 2, 2017
“Among the best I have seen:” Affordable Red Burgundy from Michel Gros
Classic. Burgundy isn’t always the most accessible of wines. The classification system can be confusing, bottles may need cellaring, food pairing can be tricky, and there’s often a hefty entry fee. So we’re are always on the lookout for entry-level Burgundy — wine that drinks well young and that won’t break the bank.
One of our favorite sources for affordable Burgundy is the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits — a beautiful rural patchwork of vineyards, meadows, and monasteries just west of the more famous Côte d’Or. Michel Gros, our best-known winemaker, produces a wine from the Hautes-Côtes that retains the signature silky, smoky style of his more famous wines from Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny. It’s an affordable chance to see what all that Burgundy fuss is about.
“Among the Best…” Wine Critic Allen Meadows (Burghound) was effusive about the 2012 Hautes-Côtes de Nuits rouge from Michel Gros, including it in his regional list of the best values of the vintage. Citing a “beautifully well-layered nose of plum, cassis, and violets,” Meadows went on to call it “among the best that I have seen from him.”
We agree with Burghound, and having just cleaned out the remaining 2012 Hautes-Côtes from the Gros cellars, we’re pleased to report that it’s drinking better than ever. Today the wine shows juicy wild cherry fruit, a pleasant cool earthiness, and a textured, delicious mouthfeel. It’s a great Burgundy to have around when you’re not feeling the need for Chambolle-Musigny, and it comes in at less than half the price.
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MICHEL GROS Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2012
Ansonia Retail: $35
case, half-case: $29/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
New Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Velvet and Strawberry Jam
Easy. With the turning of the calendar this weekend, sparkling wines abound. Indeed, if you’re in need of French, small-batch, grower bubbles, we can help. But with winter weather officially here, we thought we’d make the final post of 2016 something rich we can all enjoy.
The Chateau Maucoil is a centuries old winery in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, built on the site of a Roman-era spring. We recently wrote about Maucoil’s unusual and delicious “Cuvée 1895,” made from 120-year-old vines just outside the appellation. Today’s wine is the real deal — a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, it’s a classic, easy-drinking Châteauneuf-du-Pape with great richness and excellent depth.
Smooth. Maucoil’s high percentage of Greanche produces and an expressive and enticing nose — look for red notes of strawberry jam and lavender. The other three grapes contribute darker notes, showing licorice, chocolate, and tobacco. On the palate the wine is concentrated and juicy, with pleasant tannins presented in a long, silky mouthfeel.
It’s hard not to like Châteauneuf-du-Pape — nowhere else in the world do popular grapes like Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre take on such complexity and intensity. From an appellation where bottles over $60 are commonplace, Maucoil’s red is a refreshingly affordable bottle.
The days may be lengthening, and the year coming to a close, but with a long winter ahead we know no better antidote than a rich Southern red.
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MAUCOIL Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2014
Ansonia Retail: $40
case, half-case: $34/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Rugged Red Burgundy from a Parisian Bistro. $22
Violets and Smoke. Burgundy is best known for its wines of refinement and elegance. The delicate, often ethereal Pinot Noirs from towns like Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny are unlike any other in the world, and rightly receive the majority of Burgundy’s press. But there’s a whole other world of red Burgundy to the South of the Côte d’Or.
Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise is home to towns like Mercurey, Givry, and Rully, where Pinot Noir takes on a heartier, brisker form. These are red Burgundies that trade elegance for energy, more comfortable in a Parisian bistro than a three-star restaurant. Today’s wine, a new Givry from the Propriété Desvignes, perfectly embodies the vibrant, rugged side of Pinot Noir.
Everyday Red. The Desvignes Givry “Meix au Roy” is a Burgundy disguised as a Côtes du Rhône. There’s more rusticity and juiciness than Burgundy from further north, but the same pure, delightful Pinot Noir fruit, and deliciously accessible mouthfeel. Look for fresh wild raspberries in the nose, and a crackling lively mouthfeel. This is a charming wine that succeeds in being just what it sets out to be — hearty and refreshing.
This is an excellent choice for Burgundy fans looking for a house red and a break on the bill associated with the affliction. The 2014 vintage’s ripe tannins make this easily accessible young, particularly with a steak and frites. Close your eyes and you might even hear boats going by on the Seine.
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DESVIGNES Givry “Meix au Roy” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $26
case, half-case: $22/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Pure, Honest, Unoaked 2015 Chablis. $20
Clean. Ask ten people what comes to mind when they think of Chardonnay, and you’ll get twelve answers. Grown in nearly every corner of the winemaking world, Chardonnay has become a blank slate upon which winemakers write. Character — and quality — vary widely.
The most honest interpretation of Chardonnay we know comes from Chablis. It’s a stripped-down version of the grape: no oak clouding the purity of the fruit, just clean, crisp, refreshing white wine. In the hands of a skilled winemaker, and particularly in a year like 2015, it also be elegant, complex, and delicious.
Pure. We’ve recently written about Domaine Jean Collet’s excellent premier crus from “Forêts” and “Montée de Tonnerre.” Today’s wine is the domaine’s simplest, their 2015 Chablis. This is easy, uncomplicated wine — bright and crisp, with clean ripe fruit and an unusually smooth mouthfeel. Ripe meyer lemon notes accompany the tense mineral core to produce a beautifully balanced wine, noticeably more complex than most at its level.
This wine needs no ageing, and you probably couldn’t keep your hands off it anyway. Oysters, the classic Chablis pairing, will work beautifully; even Oysters Rockefeller will match up nicely with this energetic little wine. Light a fire, find Bing Crosby on Spotify, and serve your guests a glass of Chablis and a plate of some breadcrumb-covered bivalves — you might forget what decade you’re in.
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COLLET Chablis 2015
Ansonia Retail: $25
case, half-case: $19.95/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.