Wine is only one expression of France’s terroir. In our travels around the country we always enjoy sampling the others — from Belon oysters and real Epoisses to pâtés de campagne and fleur de sel. One of our favorite such products is crème de cassis, a blackcurrant liqueur originally from Burgundy.
We like to see Holidays as an opportunity to open special bottles. As family and friends pass through our doors and another year passes into the books, we often mark the occasion with the bottles we’ve been saving — wines too festive and special for a Tuesday in August. Our most recent addition to our end of year lineup is Grower Champagne.
We’ve divided our 2016 Holiday Gift Guide into two sections: GIFT IDEAS: mixed cases, kir kits, and special bottles. SUPPLY CASES: crowd-pleasing ideas for a large holiday gathering.
A dusting of snow this morning reminds us that winter is not far off. In the colder months our palates turn towards richer wines, particularly those from the Southern Rhône valley, where the warm summer sun is baked into every grape. And the undisputed king of the Southern Rhône Valley is Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest appellation of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. And because of its clay rich soils, its wines are similarly grand. Known for power and longevity, Gevrey-Chambertin shows dark, intense fruit and a sturdy tannic structure.
With a chill settled firmly into the air these days, we’re turning towards reds with a bit more substance. The rich wines of the Southern Rhône valley spend the summer soaking in the warmth of the clear Provençal sun — they’re a perfect matches for cold weather. Châteauneuf-du-Pape gets most of the attention in the Rhône, but if you know where to look, there are delicious, affordable wines across the valley.
Chablis remains among the best bargains in the wine world. Its distinctive wines are always more affordable than their counterparts in the Côte d’Or, a result of damage to the name from imitation “California Chablis” of decades ago. Drawing from the distinctive Kimmeridgean terroir and a tradition of subtle or no oak, the winemakers of Chablis create some of the purest expressions of Chardonnay in the world.
The are two main distinctions between Champagne and other French sparkling wine. First, terroir: Champagne’s unique chalky soils contribute to the singular flavors of its wines. Second, time spent on the lees: Champenois must age their wines for a minimum of 15 months on the lees, adding complexity and depth to the wines. (Lees are the dead yeasts that precipitate from fermented wine.)
“Puligny-Montrachet is where Burgundian Chardonnay is at its most complete,” writes Clive Coates MW. The tiny town, covering over less than one square mile, has made highly sought-after wine for nearly a thousand years. Today many consider it, as Coates puts it, “the greatest white wine commune on earth.”
The 2015 vintage continues to impress. An unusually warm and sunny year resulted in wines of deep richness and concentration, even in regions where ripeness is often a concern. In the Beaujolais, home to our new winemaker Jean-Marc Monnet, the Gamay reached a density that resembles northern Rhône syrah.
Winston Churchill once said of Champagne, “in victory you deserve it, in defeat you need it.” Whichever reaction this morning’s news brings you, we can assure you Champagne is a helpful accessory. We’re excited to introduce a brand new cuvée from our popular Grower Champagne vigneron Pascal Bardoux: his Brut Rosé.
Stretching a mere thirty-two miles, Burgundy’s Côte d’Or is responsible for finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the world. From only two grape varietals, the winemakers of Burgundy produce an astounding range of expression. Every town has its own identity and style; each is part of a tradition of winemaking that stretches back nearly a thousand years.
In France, vineyard location is paramount. Syrah grown at different latitudes tastes vastly different; in Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s character changes within the distance of a few feet. Viognier is aromatic and floral wherever it’s grown, but the complexity and elegance depends entirely on its origin. And nowhere else in the world does Viognier reach such expression as in Condrieu.
For winemakers in Burgundy, finding enough sun is a perennial concern. An unusually rainy year like 2016 can make ripening difficult. In the Languedoc, France’s southernmost region, the concern is just the opposite: how to harvest grapes with enough acidity to preserve freshness.
Beaujolais is the source of plenty of uninteresting wines. Fully a third of the region’s production is the Beaujolais Nouveau, a cheap insipid red rushed to market a month after harvest. But the rest of the region contains many highly undervalued wines, some in the same class of top wines from the north of Burgundy.