We’re on our way to France for a two week tasting trip covering the Southern Rhône, Languedoc, Northern Rhône, Beaujolais, Burgundy, Chablis, and Jura. We hope to post photos to this blog daily.
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Value. We find some of our favorite values in towns just off the beaten path. The neighbor villages of Chassange-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are the world’s best known sources for fine white wine. But just two miles to the west lies the often-overlooked town of Saint-Aubin, which turns out to be an exceptional source for white Burgundy.
The family running the Domaine Gérard Thomas has an intimate knowledge of the terroir of St-Aubin, where they’ve lived and made wine for over 70 years. Together with his two daughters, Gérard makes understated, highly affordable wines that are consistently delicious. And in a vintage like 2014, they rival even the wines of more famous towns.
Elegant. The 2014 St-Aubin “Champ Tirant” is a pure expression of a single, limited terroir. This still young wine is already drinking well; the youthful acidity melts beautifully into the smooth mouthfeel. The nose shows delicate, yellow fruits and muted toasty notes like baked lemon and almond. The mouth shows enough freshness to make it an excellent summer white, but enough ripeness and stuffing to make it drink like a far pricier wine.
Food pairings for white Burgundy are easy. According to Rajat Parr, who calls St-Aubin a source “for some of the best-value Chardonnay in the world,” white Burgundy pairs best “with oiler and meatier poached fish like halibut, salmon, monkfish, cod and grouper.” Monkfish is a particular favorite at our house, particularly Thomas Keller’s Roasted Monkfish with butter and rosemary.
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THOMAS St-Aubin 2014
Ansonia Retail: $36
case, half-case: $29/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Yin and yang. The towns of Pommard and Volnay are giants of the Côte de Beaune reds. Though less than a mile apart, the two towns represent opposing profiles – Volnay tending toward elegant and feminine, and Pommard toward sturdy and masculine. As neighbors they provide an excellent example of the microterroirs of Burgundy.
As you might expect, terroir shift exists on a continuum. (In other words, they had to draw the line somewhere.) And as you approach the border, the differences between the towns blur a bit, and it’s there that we find today’s wine. It’s a Pommard by name, but we think it shows some of the best of both towns.
Old-world grace. This wine comes from three plots in the appellation of Pommard, but it’s the vines from near the Volnay border that dominate it. The nose is very pretty, showing raspberry, cinnamon, and dark wild cherries. The mouth is youthful and elegant, with fine grained tannins, notes of blackberries, and a hint of toast.
Megard’s Pommard has the strength and intensity of a Pommard, cloaked in the silky robes of a Volnay. Decant this for an hour to allow the tannins to soften and the silky mouthfeel to unfurl. Pair this with a mild, well-browned steak from the grill or a cast iron pan.
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MÉGARD Pommard 2013
Ansonia Retail: $50
quarter-case: $42/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 3- 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Trade. The wines of Graves have been admired for nearly a thousand years. Located just south of the city of Bordeaux, Graves exploded as an international wine source in 1152 with Henry II’s marriage to Eleanor of Aquitaine. Kings from both regions abolished tariffs, and by 1225 English imports of French wine totaled 1.9 million cases annually (to a country of just over 2 million.)
Today most wines from Graves are overshadowed and undervalued. Bordeaux is best known for its famous chateaux north of the city, but the Graves region continues to produce excellent wine. We have two excellent sources here, and today’s offer comes from the Chateau Léhoul. Many readers have added Lehoul’s delicious, affordable, merlot-based red to their cellars; but today’s post is for their crisp, summery white.
Grapefruit. Named for its gravel-filled soils, Graves is an excellent source for old-world style and exceptional value in white wines. The whites here are usually majority Sauvignon Blanc, with splashes of Semillon added to round out the palate. The Chateau Lehoul is run by the Fonta family, whose Italian-sounding last name belies its French history. The Fontas have been the winemakers at Léhoul since 1798.
The 2015 Lehoul Graves blanc is among the most approachable whites they’ve made in recent memory. The nose is bright herbs and grapefruit rind; the mouth is lively and crisp, with excellent freshness, delicate minerality, and surprising depth. We poured a few tastes of a this wine last night at a family graduation party, and it evaporated before we could set it down.
For fans of fruit-forward, round Sauvignon Blanc, we usually suggest Frederic Michot’s Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley. But this year’s Léhoul Graves blanc is so well-balanced and fresh that we’d recommend it to anyone with even a passing interest in the grape. Last night we paired it with marinated chicken provencale from the grill, and the match was both harmonious and effortless.
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LÉHOUL Graves blanc 2015
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case: $18/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Crisp. Francis Muré lives in a charming Alsatian hill town. His small farmhouse nestles on vine-covered slopes near stone streets lined with colorful flower boxes. It’s charming, quaint, and picturesque, like something from a fairy tale.
Muré’s wines are a perfect representation of their pastoral origin. Today we’re releasing his rosé, an uncomplicated, refreshing, delightful glass of wine — perfect for the early-arriving summer heat. We can’t all live in such a beautiful place as Alsace, but a glass of this rosé will transport you there, at least for a moment.
Summertime. Muré splits the fruit from his Pinot Noir harvest into two wines: the bright, summer-weight red we wrote about a few weeks ago, and this rosé. Where the notes in the red are mostly wild cherries, the rosé is more floral, and the fruit is closer to strawberry.
Our requirements for rosé are low alcohol, good acidity, and an affordable price. Muré’s Rosé clocks in at 12.5%, and has a lovely, elegant balance. The cool, ripe fruits round out beautifully in the mouth, but the gentle acidity keeps it lively and fresh. The nose shows fresh herbs, wild strawberries, and dandelions. The mouth is cool and crisp, showing strawberry preserves and bright spring flowers.
This week appears to be arriving with no small dose of heat and humidity — under those conditions Mure’s Rosé is as useful as an umbrella in April. Bring a glass outside to your backyard or patio, and you might even get some gardening done.
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MURÉ Pinot Noir Rosé 2015
Ansonia Retail: $19
case, half-case: $14.95/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Tradeoff. When vines grow old, vignerons are faced with a choice. Older vines mean lower yields, which can squeeze a domaine’s bottom line. But old vines also produce more concentrated and better quality juice, leading to wines of depth and intensity. Though we understand both sides, we’re always pleased to find vignerons who sacrifice quantity for quality, and allow their vines to continue into old age.
The Domaine Gautheron in Chablis has chosen to retain a small plot of their oldest vines, which now age over 55 years old. The wine from this plot is a harmonious marriage of finesse and energy. There’s the refreshing stony minerality found in the best Chablis, but also an elegant roundness derived from the low-yielding old vines. The result of the combination is superb balance and depth.
Crisp. Cyril Gautheron is a rising star here in Chablis. The Gautheron family has made wine in Chablis for 200 years, but Cyril has taken the reins with an unusual passion. Our visits with him regularly run late as he explains the intricacies of his family’s property, and shows us unblended wines from dozens of plots.
His 2014s have just arrived in our warehouse, and the Chablis Vieilles Vignes is a particularly noteworthy example from this much heralded vintage. The nose shows chalk and lemon, with bright, clear notes and the faintest whisper of wood. The mouth is everything you want from Chablis — precise, elegant minerality, combined with pure, clean Chardonnay fruit.
With this summer set to be the hottest in memory, you won’t have any trouble finding times to open a well-chilled bottle of this white. Serve it to guests with grilled or pan seared fish, and you’ll need a second bottle at the ready.
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GAUTHERON Chablis Vieilles Vignes 14
Ansonia Retail: $28
case, half-case: $22/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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New Discovery. The finest wines of Burgundy are expensive, scarce, and require cellaring. We’re always on the hunt for more affordable options from our favorite region — pinot noirs that show Burgundy’s elegance and earthiness without the lofty price tag. Bourgognes from Michel Gros and Pierre Amiot are delicious and affordable, but our allocations for these wines evaporate quickly each year, and there’s rarely any left over after Futures.
Today we’re pleased to introduce a new Bourgogne rouge from a new producer in our portfolio. The Domaine Pierre Bourée is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, a few towns north of Gros and Amiot, and their Bourgogne rouge is our latest offering of the elusive sub-$25 red Burgundy. This is delightful and well-made wine — it might not have complexity of a Vosne or Chambolle, but it’s free of the investment as well.
Tasty. The Domaine Bourée’s style is that of a time gone by. Their old school approach to winemaking — no destemming, ambient yeasts, long soaking and maceration — results in a hardier, more robust style. Their Bourgogne rouge 2014 is crisp and lively, with a mouthfeel more about joie de vivre than elegance. It’s a style that almost resembles a Maconnais red from Givry or Mercurey — exuberant fruit, young but faint tannins, and a clean, uncomplicated finish.
The nose on the 2014 Bourgogne shows stewed red berries with hints of smoke and toast. The mouthfeel is vibrant and pleasantly young, and the tannins are present but fine. This wine isn’t trying to do too much, and accomplishes its mission in style — it might best be described as “tasty.” At 12% alcohol this will drink beautifully all summer, particularly with something from the grill.
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BOURÉE Bourgogne 2014
Ansonia Retail: $30
case, half-case: $24/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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It may be spring for another month, but here in Boston it’s starting to feel more like summer. Warm weather can make wine pairing tricky — heat and alcohol rarely go well together, and a cold beer is sometimes the best fit. But when the moment or the meal calls for wine, we look for bottles with low alcohol, good freshness, and wines that are tasty chilled.
Today’s mixed case is for 6 wines — three whites, two reds, and a rosé — that are perfect for the summer heat. All are crisp and food friendly, but complete enough to serve as an aperitif. And with a price tag under $16.50 a bottle, this is a handy case to have for a crowd of thirsty cocktail party guests.
Thomas Bourgogne blanc 2013
This is the quintessential white Burgundy — a nose of lemon and hazelnuts, round ripe fruit in the mouth, a hint of oak, and brisk citrus acidity to keep it fresh.
Mersiol Auxerrois 2014
This Alsatian variation on a Pinot Blanc is smooth and round, with notes of melon and honey — perfect for an aperitif, or pair with simple cheese and crackers.
Gautheron Petit Chablis 2015
This ever-popular wine has just returned to our inventory — it’s pure chardonnay, unoaked, with beautiful delicate minerality. Serve with any appetizers featuring fish or shellfish.
Mure Pinot Noir 2014
Muré’s only red is as floral and lovely as any of his whites. It’s cool and refreshing, showing ripe cherry fruit and pleasant soft tannins. Serve cooled with goat cheese.
Coulange Mistral 2013
This unoaked, fruit-forward blend of grenache and syrah is at the lightweight end of the Côtes du Rhône spectrum, making it perfect for summer. Serve with grilled chicken.
Muré Rosé 2015
Muré’s delightful Pinot Noir rosé is vibrant, floral, and crisp. The nose shows wildflowers and raspberries, with a fruit-forward but dry mouth. Serve chilled, with anything.
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MIXED CASE:
SUMMERTIME SAMPLER
2x THOMAS Bourgogne blanc 13: $24
2x MERSIOL Auxerrois 14: $18
2x GAUTHERON Petit Chablis 14: $22
2x MURÉ Pinot Noir 14: $24
2x COULAGNE Mistral 13: $14
2x MURÉ Rosé 15: $20
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Ansonia Retail: $244
mixed case price: $195/case
(free East Coast shipping) | save 20%
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On Island. This weekend we’ve been pouring wines at the Nantucket Wine Festival. Besides some favorite Burgundies from the Domaine Michel Gros, our table featured two reds and a rosé from the Domaine les Goubert in Gigondas. If the clear Provençal sun didn’t quite last the weekend on the island, the Nantucket breezes did their best impression of the blustery mistral.
Based on a quick tour of the tent, it’s clear that rosé continues its explosion in popularity. We think good rosé should be three things: inexpensive, dry, and refreshing. And while we’re mildly biased, we thought the Goubert Rosé showed better yesterday than several others at twice the price. The Rosé de Flo strikes a beautiful balance between ripe, honeyed fruit, and crisp lemony acidity.
Sur la plage. Many readers picked up the 2014 Goubert Rosé de Flo, which continues to drink beautifully today. But with meteorologists predicting that the impending summer will be a scorcher, there’s no such thing as too much rosé in the fridge. The Domaine les Goubert’s Rosé de Flo, you’ll remember, is the eponymous project of the family’s daughter Florence, who now handles much of the winemaking responsibilities.
The 2015 Rosé de Flo is a worthy successor to the popular 2014. This year’s blend is Grenache, Mourvèdre, and a local grape called “Vacarrèse;” Florence told us to expect slightly less spice and fresher fruit in this vintage, and she was spot on. The nose shows fresh-cut hay and wild strawberries; the mouth is round and ripe, but bolstered by excellent crisp acidity.
Anyone headed to a beach this year — on Nantucket or elsewhere — would do well to bring along a well-chilled bottle of this rosé. And for those stuck working in Boston, Philly, or DC, we recommend (with no shortage of experience) a summer evening glass of this on a roofdeck.
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GOUBERT Rosé de Flo 2015
Ansonia Retail: $19
case, half-case: $14.95/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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Timing. The perfect wine isn’t always the most expensive choice. Put a plate of just opened oysters in front of us, and we might rather pick a Muscadet over a Montrachet. Or consider a choucroute garnie (Alsatian sausage and sauerkraut) — so perfect is the marriage with an fine Alsatian Riesling, that Hermitage or Haut-Brion would seem out of place.
But the finest wines of the world have their time and place. They require time and investment, but reward both handsomely. Special occasions call for special wines, and when the moment is particularly grand, we most often turn to Grand Cru Red Burgundy. Representing just the top 1.3% of Burgundy’s production, these wines have appeared on the tables of kings and heads of state for centuries.
Most Grand Crus come with 3- or 4-digit price tags, and need years of patience. Today’s offer is for a Grand Cru Red Burgundy that has spent the last decade in the cellar in which it was bottled — and is available for less than $80.
The Domaine Ravaut is a small-scale family domaine in the “where-is-that?” hamlet of Buisson, just off the RN-74. We discovered this wine on our visit last summer, when Mr. Ravaut finished our tasting with an unmarked bottle from the back of the cellar — a Grand Cru Corton-Bressandes 2006. We called back a few hours later to reserve all that we could, and today we’re down to our last 3 cases.
This wine was extraordinary from the moment it hit our glasses. The nose was beautiful and perfumed, with notes of flowers and graham crackers; the mouth was dense and velvety, showing raspberry confit, cinnamon, and sous-bois. We marveled at how much of the core structure remained, though it has softened beautifully over nine years.
It’s unusual to have the opportunity to buy Grand Cru red Burgundy with nine years under its belt. But it’s even rarer to find it with perfect provenance. This is a case where we’d suggest choosing the wine first, and finding a meal to suit it; cornish hens, duck breast, or lightly seasoned pork tenderloins would work just fine.
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RAVAUT Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2006
Ansonia Retail: $88
quarter-case: $74/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 3- 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Bone-dry Riesling. There is no more underappreciated wine than Riesling. Many US consumers have sworn off the grape, having been burned by syrupy Rieslings with no life and too much sugar. But for lovers of dry wine, there’s enough bone-dry Riesling out there to make Riesling avoidance foolhardy. Tall skinny bottle + “Riesling” ≠ sweet.
One of the liveliest and most delicious examples of dry Riesling in our portfolio comes from the Domaine Mersiol’s Grand Cru vineyard Frankstein. Grown organically from 30 year old vines, this wine perfectly conveys the landscape of its origin. Crisp notes of lime zest and melon with a delicate, precise minerality bolster the expressive nose of elderflower and peach. This symphony of spring perfectly echoes the landscape of wildflowers and vines that sprout from the granite-laden slope.
The iconic importer Terry Theise once said, “there are times when I think that any sip of wine that isn’t Riesling is wasted.” Take a sip of this wine, and you’ll know what he meant.
Back in Stock. We’re also thrilled to report that Mersiol’s Auxerrois is back in stock. If the Grand Cru Riesling will pair with anything from grilled trout to raw oysters to, as Christophe puts it, “Coq au Riesling,” then the Auxerrois is the perfect standalone summer wine.
Like Pinot Gris, Auxerrois is a grape with a high potential for viscosity — in the wrong hands it can turn flat. But Mersiol’s Auxerrois is 12.9% alcohol and shows beautiful peach and apricot fruit cut by a sharp, lemon acidity. The result is a straightforward, utterly drinkable wine. (Read our full writeup from March here.)
Auxerrois fits in perfectly at an outdoor summer cocktail party. Serve your guests a glass of Auxerrois when they arrive, and a glass of the Grand Cru Riesling at table — just be ready for them to ask for seconds on both.
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MERSIOL Riesling Gr. Cru “Frankstein” 13
Ansonia Retail: $30
case, half-case: $24/bot
AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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MERSIOL Auxerrois 2014
Ansonia Retail: $17
case, half-case: $13.95/bot
AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to order either wine.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Value. The Loire Valley boasts France’s widest diversity of styles. The rosés are mostly crisp and bright, the sparkling wines dry and floral, and the whites range from dry to sweet and brisk to rich. The Loire’s main red grape is Cabernet Franc, better known for its important part in the wines of Bordeaux. In the Loire Valley it is most often unoaked and unblended, taking on a juicier starring role.
Our favorite source for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc is Chinon, a charming, ancient town that boasts a well preserved, important 12th century castle. The best reds from Chinon are pure and crisp, and though some age well, they drink beautifully in their youth. As WSJ wine writer Lettie Teague wrote last week, “Chinon and nearby towns …produce some of the best-valued wines in the Loire Valley—if not all of France.”
50-year-old vines. Our winemaker in Chinon is the young Fabien Demois, a shy, entrepreneurial fellow who took over his family’s wine production a few years ago and has since gained journalistic praise and more than a few awards. Fabien makes his Chinon “Galets Ambrés” from Cabernet Franc planted in the 1960s, and named for the amber-laden stones found in the vineyard. It’s unoaked, dense, and juicy — an unusually concentrated take on a Loire Valley red.
“Galets Ambrés” is delicious, showing notes of dark chocolate, cool ripe berries, graphite, and a hint of smokiness. The mouthfeel is lively, complex, and croquant (“crackling”), a testament to the increased freshness we often find in organically grown wines. We enjoyed a slightly cooled bottle last night with a summery pasta; this is low-alcohol and refreshing, a nice option for warm weather.
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DEMOIS Chinon 2014
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case: $18/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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WINE.
DEMOIS Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2004 — beautiful smoky nose, graphite and roasted berry fruit; the mouth is dry and fresh, with dark chocolate and raspberry. (More about this wine.)
FOOD.
Pasta with Goat Cheese, Tomato, and Zucchini — a simple, delicious pasta that’s great for a crowd; we serve this regularly all summer long. Remember to reserve some cooking liquid to help distribute the goat cheese. High quality canned tomatoes can be substituted if ripe fresh ones are not available. Recipe below:
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PASTA WITH GOAT CHEESE, TOMATO AND ZUCCHINI
10 ounces pasta
2 small zucchini, scrubbed, trimmed, quartered lengthwise, and sliced thin crosswise
1/4 cup olive oil
5 ounces soft mild goat cheese cut into pieces
1 large tomato peeled seeded and diced
½ cup chopped fresh basil leaves
Cook pasta until al dente and drain well reserving about 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid.
In large skillet saute the zucchini in the oil until it is golden brown on the edges and season it with salt and pepper.
Add the pasta and saute the mixture, stirring for 3 minutes.
Remove the skillet from the heat, stir in the goat cheese and as much of the reserved cooking water as necessary to form a sauce.
Stir in the tomato, the basil and salt and pepper to taste and serve the pasta immediately. Serves 4.
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Fresh and Golden. Sometimes we wonder why Michel Gros makes any white wine at all. The Gros family has lived for generations in Vosne-Romanée, a town that produces some of the finest red wines in the world. His red Burgundies garner high prices and have won him acclaim for decades.
But the reason for a white becomes clear as soon as we taste it. If the 2013 Gros Hautes-Côtes de Nuits blanc was a bit brisk when it arrived in the states last fall, it has fleshed out into a rich and energetic white wine. A blossoming mouth-coating richness has reigned in the bright acidity of its youth, and today it sports beautiful balance.
Lemon and toast. Gros’s only white wine comes from the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, a region up on the ridge just west of the Côte d’Or. Gros farms a considerable amount real estate up here, much of it planted by his father in the 1970s. These wines may have less complexity than his famous village wines, but they also come with a friendlier price.
The Hautes-Côtes de Nuits blanc 2013 shows lemon and hazelnut in the nose with bright clean notes of white flowers and wild honey. In the mouth it’s rich and full, with a soft attack followed by a burst of freshness — look for lemon curd and toast. It’s richer than many white Burgundies, and shows a nicely integrated touch of wood.
We love the Gros HCDN blanc with grilled chicken and other such summertime fare — it’s refreshing and bright but with plenty of gras to stand up to the meal. Chablis might be better suited for raw shellfish or sushi, but for something coming off the grill this is an inspired match.
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GROS Hautes-Côtes de Nuits blanc 2013
Ansonia Retail: $38
case, half-case: $32/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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