Author: Thomas Wilcox

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New Everyday Sangiovese: Dark Chocolate and Roses. $16

Across the Alps.  The wine regions of France are enormous and diverse. The wide range of styles, grapes, and and traditions produces a staggering variety of wines. That offers enough diversity to keep us busy for years, and in some regions we feel as though we have barely scratched the surface.

But from time to time we gaze across the borders into the countries beyond. About 350 miles southeast of Mont Blanc (or for purposes of this post, Monte Bianco) lies a charming Tuscan hilltown that has often diverted us from our Francophile tendencies. The Fattoria Poggerino is a small, organic winemaker crafting delicious, affordable wines of pure Sangiovese — a small but delicious exception to our French-centric portfolio.

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Pomorodo.  Poggerino splits its Chianti Classico vines into older and younger parcels, bottling the former as “Chianti Classico” and the latter vat-raised as “Il Labirinto.” The Classico is their flagship cuvée, and rightly deserving of its praise. But with the “young” vines now pushing 35 years old, Labirinto is Classico-quality wine that is an astounding bargain for the price.

The 2015 arrived in our warehouse last week, and it’s undoubtedly the finest Labirinto we have seen. One longtime customer who ordered a case 2015 Labirinto from our January Futures program tasted a bottle over the weekend and called us to reserve four more cases. It would be a delicious and reasonable wine at $25; at $16, it’s a steal.

The nose of the Labirinto 2015 is gorgeous. Very ripe cherry fruit springs from the glass, accompanied by earth, roses, and tobacco. The mouth is also exceptional — smooth, ripe, and clean, with plum and dark chocolate. The tannins are refined and neatly aligned, with no astringency or harshness. This is lively and pleasantly drinkable on its own, but like most wines, it’s best enjoyed with the other fruits of its home terroir. Try a homemade pizza (good recipe for the dough here) or a pasta with a tomato based sauce.

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POGGERINO Labirinto 2015
Ansonia Retail: $20
6+ bottle price : $16/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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More Exceptional 2014 White Burgundy: Golden and Powerful

Value.  When we shape our portfolio, we look for wines that “punch above their weight.” These are wines that exceed expectations based on the price tag and the name on the label — bottles that, if tasted blind, you’d put in a higher class. One of our favorites in this category has long been a premier cru white Santenay from Roger Belland.

Santenay is known for mid-range Burgundies that can be delicious but are seldom extraordinary. But Belland’s Santenay 1er cru Beauregard blanc might the finest white Santenay we’ve had. Grown in a vineyard near the border with Chassagne-Montrachet, we think that tasted blind it could easily be mistaken for its fancier neighbor.

Sucrocité. Clive Coates MW calls Roger Belland “one of the best sources in the village.” Together with his daughter Julie, Belland crafts excellent wines with cool, fresh fruit and beautiful balance. They are the fifth and sixth generations of the Belland family to work this property, and know their land and vines intimately.

Belland’s 2014 Santenay 1er cru blanc has a pretty, baked apple nose with notes of white flowers and honey, but it’s on the palate that this wine really shines. The mouthfeel is thick and vibrant, showing 2014’s signature mixture of length and energy, with notes of crème brûlée and apple pie. The oak, fruit, and acidity are all in perfect balance, presenting a wine that bursts with life and richness.

Pair this with a Sunday afternoon roast chicken or a hearty soup — pour it from a carafe, and you guests will never guess where it came from.

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BELLAND Santenay 1er cru blanc 2014
Ansonia Retail: $42
6+ bottle price : $36/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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“Near Perfection”: 2015 Red Burgundy, At Last. $25

Exceptional.  There’s been no shortage of hype surrounding the 2015 Red Burgundies. Even our favorite reviewers, who we follow in part because of their restraint, have been effusive. “One of the half-dozen top vintages for red Burgundy of the past generation,” writes Steven Tanzer of Vinous; “a genuinely great vintage,” opines Allen Meadows (Burghound). And indeed, our initial tastings from barrel and early bottles have confirmed this enthusiasm.

Many readers got a glimpse of the vintage through the excellent gamays from Monnet and Perrachon last fall. As the 2015 pinots from the Côte d’Or begin to arrive, we think you’ll find the same delicious elements: perfectly ripe fruit, excellent density, and fine-grained tannins. In a word, they’re a delight.

We plan to offer as many 2015 red Burgundies as we can get our hands on over the next year or so, but we’re starting off today with one of the simplest: the 2015 Bourgogne rouge from Pierre Bourée.

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Density.  Pierre Bourée is an old-school producer in Gevrey-Chambertin. They use whole clusters and a longer-than-usual maceration, resulting wines with a rugged character that’s reminiscent of an time gone by. Their 2015 Bourgogne rouge is an excellent entree to this exceptional vintage, showing an intensity and depth usually reserved for wines of higher classifications. It’s accessible, ripe, and simply delicious.

Bourée’s Bourgogne rouge 2015 doesn’t require much thought or contemplation — the fruits are ripe and pleasant, making it effortlessly drinkable. The nose is dark and brooding, showing raspberries and stewed cherries. But it’s in the mouth where it truly shines — there’s a depth and intensity almost unheard of for a Bourgogne, with perfectly ripe fruit, juicy tannins, great length, and a clean delicious finish.

If you’re already a fan of Burgundy, you are probably aware of all the buzz about the “15s;” and we heartily recommend this as a place to start. For those new to the region, here’s a perfect first vintage to try.

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BOURÉE Bourgogne rouge 2015
Ansonia Retail: $30
6+ bottle price : $25/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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The Magic of Steak and Bordeaux. $22

Fond. One of the most intoxicating aromas in cooking comes from the Maillard reaction. It’s the flavor most often associated with browned meat, though it’s also found in bread crusts, chocolate, coffee beans, and dark beer. First identified by Louis Camille Maillard, the reaction is similar to caramelization, but produces earthier, more complex flavors.

There aren’t any Maillard reactions in the winemaking process, but from time to time the same aroma molecules appear in red wines. One of our favorite dishes that showcases Maillard’s magic is Thomas Keller’s skirt steak. And one of the best wine pairings we know for the dish is the red from Chateau Lafont Menaut in Pessac-Leognan in Bordeaux.

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Plum jam and earth.  Lafont Menaut is the project of Philibert Perrin, whose family also owns neighboring Chateau Carbonnieux (one of three visited by Thomas Jefferson in 1786). He employs the same care and expertise at both properties. The Cabernet adds dark, briary notes of blackberry and currant, with the Merlot adding notes of plum jam.

Lafont Menaut is a classic, dark-palate Bordeaux, showing figs and currants alongside notes of cedar smoke and earth. It benefits greatly from 30 minutes or so in a glass or decanter. The 2014 has just arrived in our warehouse — a dark, rich vintage with ripe, juicy tannins. With both steak and wine on your table you may get confused about the source of some of the aromas — but we can assure you after a gulp of each the source won’t much matter.

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LAFONT MENAUT Pessac-Leognan 2014
Ansonia Retail: $26
6+ bottle price : $22/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Humble, Delicious Red Burgundy: Roses, Cherries, and Toast. $22

Off the beaten track.  Most of the red Burgundy we import comes from the Côte d’Or. Stretching thirty miles from Dijon to Santenay, the Côte d’Or is home to nearly all of Burgundy’s famous vineyards. But continue south past Santenay and there’s a whole other world of Burgundy to discover — one with quieter names, simpler wines, and far more reasonable prices.

Just ten miles south of the end of the Côte d’Or lies the town of Givry. The town had a brief run of popularity in the 16th century, when France’s King Henry IV declared it his favorite wine. Since then Givry has settled into its more modest existence, producing humble, honest, and delicious red Burgundies.

The wines of Givry trade elegance for energy, more comfortable in a Parisian bistro than a three-star restaurant. And today’s offering perfectly embodies the vibrant, rugged side of Pinot Noir.

Everyday Red. The Desvignes Givry “Meix au Roy” is a Burgundy disguised as a Côtes du Rhône. There’s more rusticity and juiciness than in Burgundy from further north, but the same pure, delightful Pinot Noir fruit and deliciously accessible mouthfeel. The nose is dark and briary, with stewed cherries, roses, and faint toast. The mouth is smooth and ripe, with low tannin, great freshness, raspberries and a hint of fig.

This is an excellent choice for Burgundy fans looking for a house red and a break on the bill. The 2014 vintage’s ripe tannins make this easily accessible young, particularly with a steak frites — it’s even more enjoyable than six months ago when it arrived.

There’s a time and a place for the finest Pinot Noirs of Burgundy — but some nights call for Givry over Gevrey.

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DESVIGNES Givry 2014
Ansonia Retail: $26
6+ bottle price : $22/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Mixed Case: Northern Rhône Sampler

The Northern Rhône is a long, narrow winegrowing region on the banks of the Rhône river. Perched along astonishingly steep hillsides just south of Lyon, the region grows only two grapes — viognier for whites, and syrah for reds. Both grapes reach their nothernmost ripening limit here, and the wines they produce represent the highest form of each varietal.

Today we’re offering two whites and two reds from this region. The whites are both Viognier — one a simple everyday cuvée, and the other a magnificent Condrieu. The reds are pure Syrah — one from Saint-Joseph, and one from Côte Rôtie.

Syrah and Viognier are grown all over the world, but nowhere else do they taste quite like this.

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BONNEFOND Viognier 2015
When grown in hot climates Viognier can be heavy and flat; yet in the Northern Rhône it reaches an unusual balance. This entry-level viognier from a master winemaker in Côte Rôtie is perfumed and delightful — look for peach, mango, and honey.

MONTEZ Condrieu 2015
Condrieu is undisputed as the finest Viognier, grown on the vertigo-inducing banks of the Rhône river. Pour this into the biggest red-wine glass you own, swirl, and watch the aromas develop — look for gardenia, apricot, and green tea.

SAINT CLAIR Saint-Joseph 2014
In the best wines of Saint-Joseph, Syrah reaches a balance between dark meatiness and lively, texutred mouthfeel. Denis Basset is a rising star in the area, and his Saint-Joseph is inky dark and enticing but perfectly balanced. Look for black pepper, clove, and blackberry.

BONNEFOND Côte Rôtie 2014
Côte Rôtie is among the finest expressions of Syrah. Vinous calls Bonnefond’s cuvées “some of the most extroverted” in the appellation, and we agree — they’re awfully easy to enjoy. Look for a deep enticing mouthfeel with plum, roasted meats, dark chocolate, and smoke.

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NORTHERN RHONE SAMPLER

3x   Bonnefond Viognier 2015:   $25
3x   Montez Condrieu 2015:   $56
3x   Saint-Clair Saint-Joseph 14:   $32
3x   Bonnefond Côte Rôtie 2014:   $54


Ansonia Retail: $501
offer price: $395/case

free East Coast shipping    |    save $106

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Golden, Floral, Opulent: 2014 Premier Cru Chassagne-Montrachet.

Historic.  The hillside of Montrachet produces the world’s finest dry white wine. In production for nearly two thousand years, the vineyard straddles the border between the neighboring towns of Puligny and Chassagne. Each produces wine of a different character, and though their terroirs meet in the famous plot, there are noticeable differences in the extraordinary wines that both villages make.

If Puligny-Montrachet is a reserved, impeccably dressed Parisian, then Chassagne-Montrachet is a warmer, more jovial Frenchman from Dijon. Both towns produce extraordinary wines, but Chassagne’s are generally friendlier and more approachable young. Today’s cuvée is a premier cru from Chassagne’s southern border, and one you don’t need to wait for to enjoy.

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Friendly.  Roger Belland knows the terroir of Chassagne intimately. He’s the fifth generation winemaker in his family, and he makes wine on both sides of the Montrachet border. Today we offer his Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Monopole “Clos Pitois” 2014, a classic, golden, mouthfilling white Burgundy. The Belland family owns the entire vineyard — an unusual circumstance in Burgundy, where most vineyards are split among several owners.

This wine is everything Chassagne-Montrachet is supposed to be. The nose is explosive and opulent, with coconut, flowers, butter, and honeysuckle — your nose will pick them up while the glass is still several inches away. On the palate this is long, rich, and vibrant, with notes of sweet lemons, hazelnut, and toast.

There’s nothing quite like the Grand Cru Montrachet, but if you can find one, a bottle requires substantial investment. If you’ve ever wondered what has drawn people to this terroir for thousands of years, here’s a slightly more reasonable way to find out.

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BELLAND Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru “Clos Pitois” blanc 2014
Ansonia Retail: $78
3+ bottle price : $69/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    3-     6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Twice the Wine at Half the Price: Small-Batch Grower Champagne.

Discovery.  We first met Pascal Bardoux less than two years ago, but he is already a favorite among our readers. His small-batch Champagnes are distinctive, delicious, complex, and comparative bargains. With much of the mass-market Champagne distributed in the US between $75 and $100 a bottle, Bardoux’s $45 small-batch Brut Traditionnel is twice the wine at half the price.

Monsieur Bardoux is a fifth generation Champagne maker who more resembles a professor. His quiet, thoughtful approach to his wine is a stark departure from the glossy brochures and fancy tasting rooms common in Champagne. But Bardoux’s humble style belies the extraordinary intricacy and elegance of his wines.

This is Champagne as it was meant to be — wine first, bubbles second.

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Best yet.  Bardoux’s Brut Traditionnel is his non-vintage cuvée, and an excellent entree to the collection. A blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, this wine has the complexity and depth to match the finest bottles from Burgundy or Bordeaux. This year’s Traditionnel contains wine mostly from 2012, and we found it even better than last year’s. The nose shows plum and lemon and buttered biscuits; the mouth is dry, elegant, and smooth, with notes of apple and toast.

We can’t recommend this wine highly enough. For those new to Champagne, this wine will convert you with ease, and at $45/bot it won’t blow your budget. For those with a more Churchillian perspective on bubbles, this is as delicious and complex as any non-vintage grower Champagne we’ve had, and it’s impossible to match for value.

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BARDOUX Champagne “Traditionnel” Brut NV
Ansonia Retail: $52
3+ bottle price : $45/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    3-     6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Golden 92-pt Meursault from a Master: the Epitome of White Burgundy.

Cote d’Or.  “If gold were a flavor,” Matt Kramer once wrote, “it would taste like Meursault.” Though it has no Grand Cru vineyards, Meursault’s wines are among the most sought after in the world. The name recalls white Burgundies of decadence, opulence, and style.

We began buying from Vincent Boyer more than a decade ago, and since then the international wine press has widely acclaimed him as a rising star. In 2014 Boyer offered us the rare opportunity to buy some of his Meursault “Narvaux,” a village level white considered among the finest in the town. Boyer coaxes his 70 year old Chardonnay vines into perfect expressions of this extraordinary terroir.

Combining old vines, a master winemaker, exceptional terroir, and the celebrated 2014 vintage, this is not a wine to miss.

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Royalty.  The Narvaux vineyard perches above Meursault’s premier crus and borders the famous Genevrières vineyard. The wine is classic Meursault, with a wonderful mouthfilling intensity drawn from the richness of the fruit, not the oak. The nose is round and generous, showing buttery toast, hazelnut, and apricot. The mouth is full but tense, showing dense notes of pear and white flowers, with a long, vibrant finish.

This is classic, rich, opulent white Burgundy, which is the finest and most impressive expression of Chardonnay. Vincent suggests serving this with a simple broiled fish dressed in butter and lemon — we also suggest lobster as an inspired pairing. And with snow back in the weather forecast today, we can’t think of anything more needed than a glass of rich, golden Meursault.

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BOYER-MARTENOT Meursault “Narvaux” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $62
3+ bottle price : $54/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    3-     6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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Cool, Meaty Syrah-Blend from the Languedoc. $12.95

Value.  For the careful shopper, the Languedoc can be an abundant resource. Long deserving its reputation for mediocrity, the region has only recently become a source of value. There’s still plenty of bad wine made in the vast region, but if you make good choices, $13 will take you farther here than just about anywhere else.

The region’s best bargain may come from the Clos Bagatelle. This centuries-old domaine hails from the ancient town of St. Chinian, set high in the rock-strewn hills of the central Languedoc. Bagatelle grows syrah, carignan, and cinsault in a rocky schist soil that provides balance and minerality.

 

Fresh.  Bagatelle’s Cuvée Tradition 2014 is full of cool, stony fruit – there’s a dark berry freshness and lack of heat that’s hard to come by in much of the Languedoc. The palate offers fruit compote, meatiness, and hints of tobacco, but without high alcohol or palate-tiring heaviness.

This is a well-priced, crowd pleasing red — it’s the house red for several of our friends. It’s also a perfect transition red, for these weeks in March where the weather teeters between winter and spring. When cold air wins out, this provides an easy, rich accompaniment to to stews, hearty pastas, and other wintery fare. But once spring rolls around, this is an excellent match for the grill.

NOTE: The 2016 version of this wine is available through our March Futures issue.

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BAGATELLE Tradition 2014
Ansonia Retail: $15
case, half-case : $12.95/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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or call Tom: (617) 249-3657

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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New Exceptional Red Burgundy from Michel Gros. $32

Star Power. Michel Gros is perhaps the most recognizable producer in our portfolio. His wines are all elegant and precise, often showing smoky or toasty qualities, and always silky and beautiful. A few years ago Clive Coates MW listed Michel Gros in the top 17 domaines in all of Burgundy — a list that included Romanée-Conti, Leroy, and Comtes Lafon — and highlighted the “nobility and elegance” of his wines.

Many of the domaine’s cuvées require both investment and patience, but not all of them. Gros makes a handful of wines from less famous zip codes — their vines receive the same care, with juice vinified in the same manner. These “petits vins” aren’t as complex or long-lived as Gros’s Clos Vougeot, but they offer a chance to sample the brilliance of the domaine at a more affordable price.

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Historic.  The Fontaine-Saint-Martin vineyard is named for an ancient Cistercian abbey nearby dating to 1127. The hillside of vines was in production for centuries, and more recently tended by Michel and his father for the last 40 years. Gros blended the wine from this plot into an Hautes-Côtes de Nuits until the 2014 vintage, when he determined the terroir was sufficiently distinctive to merit its own cuvée.

The Fontaine Saint Martin is indeed special — its soil is the same mix of marl, clay, and limestone found on the Hill of Corton. The nose is unusually dark and enticing for a Pinot Noir of its pedigree — look for black raspberry, violets, and a whisper of menthol. The mouth is crisp, full, and sturdy, with ripe young tannins that smooth out over a half-hour in the glass. Gros’s signature toasty notes join cassis and dried roses on the palate.

If you don’t already know them, we highly recommend sampling of Michel’s fancier wines some day — they can be truly extraordinary. But in the meantime, here’s a chance to get to know Gros on a friendlier level.

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MICHEL GROS “Fontaine Saint-Martin” red 2014
Ansonia Retail: $38
case, half-case : $32/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.

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2015 Premier Cru White Burgundy: A Triumph of Balance and Richness. $32

Opportunity.  Chablis remains one of the best bargains in the wine world. Forever playing second fiddle to the rest of Burgundy, the brand suffered damage from the jug-wine “California Chablis,” and has yet to recover fully. The wines themselves, however, have never been better.

Today we’re offering one of our favorites from Chablis — the premier cru Montée de Tonnerre. Considered one of the three finest premier crus in Chablis, Montée de Tonnerre produces dense, elegant wines year after year. Our source for this vineyard is the young winemaker Romain Collet, who has turned in an exceptional effort with the 2015 vintage.

Balance.  Record high temperatures in 2015 made ripening easy but harvest timing tricky. The Collet family was careful to pick early, retaining acidity in the fruit, and ensuring balance in the final product. The 2015 Montée de Tonnerre is a triumph — beautiful, long, rich mouthfeel, attractive ripe fruits, and a crisp lively acidity and minerality to maintain freshness.

Collet has expertly translated the rocky terroir of Chablis into this wine — the firm mineral core makes this wine vibrant and very intense. But thanks to 2015’s heat there’s a fleshiness reminiscent of Chassagne and Meursault. And while most village wines from those towns start north of $60, the “Chablis discount” brings this down close to half.

Look for notes of honey, lime rind, and salt air in the nose; the mouth shows intense, concentrated fruit, with notes of almond, pineapple, and herbs. Normally we suggest Chablis for a refreshing summertime white — but this is rich and elegant enough to enjoy while winter weather remains.

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COLLET Chablis 1er cru “Montée de Tonnerre” 2015
Ansonia Retail: $38
case, half-case : $32/bot

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AVAILABLE IN    6-   AND  12-   BOTTLE LOTS

 

 

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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale.  All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts.  Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.