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Magnificent Five Year Vosne-Romanée 1er cru: “Elegant,” “Opulent,” “Genius”

Michel Gros is as much a part of Vosne-Romanée as its pointed steeple, the ancient vineyards, and the narrow crooked streets. He is a lifelong resident of the town, as were his father and grandfather before him — his mother was even mayor. The Gros family name has been synonymous with Vosne-Romanee for centuries.

Their most famous vineyard is the premier cru monopole “Clos des Réas,” the only one in the appellation. It is a magnificent property, stretching over 2 hectares, and turning out wines described by critics as “supremely elegant,” “opulent” and “genius.” It has long been a favorite of ours, and we recently acquired a few cases of the excellent 2012.

For Burgundian grace and prestige, not much matches this wine.

 

 

The 2012 vintage was very small in Burgundy. A cold, wet spring led to reduced yields, resulting in very concentrated wines. Wine writers anticipate long lives for these dense wines, but we’ve found they’ve already begun to show well. With an hour in a decanter and beside a choice cut of meat, the 2012s just sing these days.

Allen Meadows (Burghound) found the 2012 Réas has “exceptionally good richness…that completely coats the palate.” He called it an “opulent effort,” predicting it would be “approachable young if desired.” And though he noted Michel’s usually modesty on the subject of his own wines, Meadows called the 2012s “among the best I have seen from him.”

Réas is the wine we get out for special family occasions. It’s elegant, luxurious, and perfectly balanced — everything you want from a top red Burgundy. It’s not exactly at weeknight pricing, but special moments call for special wines. With the holidays approaching, we’re confident you can find an excuse to enjoy this exceptional wine.

 

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Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er cru “Clos des Réas” 2012

Ansonia Retail: $150
1+ bottle price : $124/bot

 

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Rich, Dense, Extraordinary 2015 Crozes-Hermitage.

The finest Northern Rhône Syrahs are a study in finesse and subtlety. Their brilliance comes from the marriage of a dark, rich southern grape varietal with a cooler northern climate. Particularly in 2015, the wines show an exquisite balance between an inky meatiness and a brisk fruitiness.

We’ve yet to have a bad 2015 Northern Rhône Syrah, but even in a crowded field, Denis Basset’s old-vine Crozes-Hermitage “Fleur Enchanté” is a favorite. The Guide Hachette calls Basset’s wines “a model of balance and finesse;” we call them complex and delicious. With winter on the way, this bold, cozy wine will fit perfectly on a frigid evening.

 

 

The 2015 Fleur Enchantée shows dark blackberry and cassis fruit in the nose, with violet and cloves alongside. The mouth is remarkably dense and fine, with a balanced mouthfeel and an extremely long finish that shows peppercorn, plum, and wild cherry jam. From nearly 50 year old syrah vines and aged carefully for a year and a half before bottling, this is an extraordinarily mouthfilling Syrah.

It’d be an impressive wine at $40/bot, and no one would be disappointed. At $25, it has to be among the best buys in the lineup. If you’re a fan of Northern Rhône syrahs, you already know to expect great things from this wine. If you’re new to the region, 2015 is a great place to start.

 

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Saint-Clair Crozes-Hermitage “Fleur Enchantée” 2015

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Perfectly Aged 6-Year-Old Red Bordeaux. $25

Well aged wine is hard to come by these days. Today’s consumers often drink wines too early, or avoid age-worthy bottles all together. So whenever we can, we look for opportunities to import wines that are near their optimal drinking window.

Today’s wine isn’t one of the great wines of the world, and it isn’t even all that old. But it’s well made and from excellent terroir. It needed a few years to knit together, and now with six years under its belt it’s perfectly ready. It’s a rarity today: impeccably aged, perfectly mature red Bordeaux for under $30.

 

 

Lalande-de-Pomerol is a quiet neighbor of the famous town of Pomerol, home to some of the world’s most expensive wine. Our new producer here is the Domaine du Grand Ormeau — their Lalande de Pomerol is 80% Merlot, and 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. You won’t mistake this wine for Petrus, but you won’t mistake the price either.

The 2011 from Grande Ormeau is beautiful wine, aged in the cellar where it was bottled until this spring. The nose is soft and welcoming with notes of berry jam and forest floor. The mouth is smooth and lively, with perfectly softened tannins producing a sophisticated, serious but accessible mouthfeel.

With six years since the harvest, the oak of this wine has integrated seamlessly, and the tannins have reached perfect maturity. If there’s meat on your menu this holiday season — steak or lamb or even veal — consider serving this. Your guests will think you paid much more for it.

 

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Grand Ormeau Lalande-de-Pomerol 2011

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Dark, Refreshing New Côtes du Rhône: Lavender, Earth, and Plums. $19

Cotes-du-Rhône is one of the most recognizable brands in wine. From wine bars around the world to your local corner wine shop, there’s no shortage of Côtes du Rhône around. And such ubiquity can make it hard for wines to stand out.

We’ve long enjoyed the Côtes-du-Rhônes from Goubert, Malmont (coming back soon) and Coulange, but we’re excited to add a new one. Today’s is the 2014 Côtes du Rhône-Villages from the Château Maucoil, an estate at the northwestern end of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Our main criteria for Côtes du Rhône are threefold: it should be rich, inexpensive, and refreshing. The first two are easier to achieve, but the third can be tricky. And it’s exactly for its refreshing, perfectly balanced mouthfeel that we decided to add this wine to our lineup.

 

 

Maucoil’s 2014 Côtes du Rhône Village is a delightful blend of 50% Grenache, and 25% each of Carignan and Syrah. The nose is dark and earthy, with notes of licorice, leather and plums. In the mouth is dark and rich but strikingly lively — after a midweight palate of cherry jam and lavender, it finishes clean and very fresh.

This is a food Côtes-du-Rhône, perfect for cheese and crackers at your holiday party. (In fact if you’re dying for some and are within FedEx’s two-day range from Boston, we can ship you some for Thanksgiving.) For a rich Southern red that won’t tire your palate, look no further.

 

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Maucoil Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2014

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New 2015 Red Bordeaux: Rich, Smooth, “Beguiling.” $25

The 2015 growing season brought warm weather to nearly every region in France. The wines from Burgundy and the Northern Rhône are some of the finest in a generation. Those from the Southern Rhône are dense, very rich, and easy to enjoy. And the 2015 reds from Bordeaux are some of the smoothest and roundest in years.

The 2015 Bordeaux reds are not without structure, but the examples we’ve seen — particularly from the left bank — are soft and lush, with ripe fruit and a beguiling mouthfeel. We’ve just received the 2015 Lafont-Menaut from Pessac Leognan, and it’s delightful. We can’t say for certain how it will age, but open a bottle today and we’ll be surprised if you have any left in a year.

 

 

Lafont-Menaut is the second property from the owners of the prestigious Chateau Carbonnieux, a legendary Graves estate. The Perrins farm their less famous terroirs with the same care as Carbonnieux, and the Lafont-Menaut rouge is among the most consistent wines we import.

The 2015 is a smooth, bold, drink-now red Bordeaux — perfect for your guest with a taste for richer reds. Decanter’s Jane Anson called the 2015 “lovely” with a “gentle floral-edged minerality.” We found it chocolaty and chalky, with notes of dried roses, plums, toast, earth, and spice.

Many wines from Bordeaux require one mortgage to purchase the wine and another to build a cellar for decades of storage. The 2015 Lafont-Menaut requires neither — it’s a drink-now red Bordeaux for less than price of a fancy corkscrew.

 

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Lafont-Menaut Pessac-Leognan rouge 2015

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Rich, Muscular New $25 Gamay: “Delicious and Refreshing.”

Beaujolais has always had a turbulent relationship with the rest of Burgundy. To many in the Côte d’Or, the Beaujolais represents overmarketed and undercrafted wine. But in recent years the Beaujolais has undergone a renaissance, as the prominence of Nouveau recedes and more vignerons make ageworthy wine.

Among our favorite serious Beaujolais sources is Laurent Perrachon, a multigenerational domaine working very old vines with meticulous care. Perrachon has more fans than just us — the domaine regularly receives top notes from Jancis Robinson, Josh Raynolds (Vinous), and Allen Meadows (Burghound).

 

 

Jancis Robinson calls Moulin-a-Vent the “most highly rated of all the Beaujolais crus,” and after a sip of today’s wine it’s not hard to see why. Perrachon’s Moulin-a-Vent “Les Burdelines” is as dense and bold as any Beaujolais we’ve tasted. As with Perrachon’s other wines, this bears more resemblance in mouthfeel to a Northern Rhône Syrah than a Pinot from Burgundy.

Today’s release is of the 2014 Burdelines, a wine Burghound awarded 90 points and called “delicious and refreshing.” Perrachon keeps this wine in oak for a bit longer to help it knit together, and so the current release is a year behind their other wines. The last few bottles of last year’s 2013 Burdelines were some of the most enjoyable Beaujolais we’ve ever had, and we expect the 2014 to age with similar verve.

Today, however, the 2014 “Burdelines” needs a half an hour in a carafe, a hearty meal (such as Thanksgiving), and a rowdy group of friends. Look for anise, cherry, black pepper, and stones on the nose, with a dense, chewy mouthfeel and notes of briary cassis and black raspberry. This isn’t a Beaujolais you’ll forget about soon — it may be only twice the price of the Nouveau, but it’s easily ten times the wine.

 

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Perrachon Moulin-a-Vent “Burdelines” 2014

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White Burgundy in Perfect Balance: Ravaut’s $25 Bourgogne Returns.

Round. Burgundy is where Chardonnay finds its finest expression. In cold climates, the grape can be acidic and thin; in hot climates, it runs the risk of high alcohol and over extraction. But in Burgundy, Chardonnay has the potential to strike its most elegant balance between soft, mouthfilling fruit, and crisp, refreshing acidity.

No one walks this line between fullness and crispness better than the Domaine Ravaut. The Ravaut family’s whites include some of the best we know, including an extraordinary, age-worthy Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne. But today’s offer is for their simplest — a Bourgogne blanc that combines the golden texture of elegant Chardonnay with a vibrant line of freshness.

 

 

Pears.  The Ravaut Family is a low-profile domaine in an often-forgotten town. They continue to sell most of their wine to loyal customers who visit their front door, and during our tastings their cellars are often crowded with visitors from Paris and elsewhere in France. The Ravauts fly mostly below the radar of the international wine press, and we feel lucky to have found them.

From a ripe, early drinking year, the Ravaut Bourgogne Blanc is an effortlessly drinkable glass of wine. The nose is expressive and attractive, showing pear and coconut, with a hint of lemon peel. The mouth is round and soft, with notes of almond and toast balanced by green apple freshness. There’s more chalky length than you’d expect from a wine of this level.

This is a perfect autumn-weight white Burgundy — lively and energetic, but full of rich mouthfilling fruit that coats the palate in style.

 

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Ravaut Bourgogne blanc 2015

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6+ bottle price : $25/bot

 

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Mixed Case: Gros/Amiot Sampler

The best known domaines in our portfolio are two sources of classic Red Burgundy: the Domaine Michel Gros and the Domaine Pierre Amiot. Their wineries are just three miles apart, and they both farm plots along the world’s most famous stretch of vines. Winemakers Michel Gros and Jean-Louis Amiot were even grade school friends.

Their styles are slightly different — Gros’s wines tend more towards elegance, Amiot’s towards richness — but they represent some of the finest red Burgundies in our portfolio. We have collected four of our favorites, from four different towns and vintages. These are pure, masterfully made Pinot Noir from some of the most talented winemakers in Burgundy.

 

 

GROS Nuits-St-Georges 2012
The nose is expressive and silky, showing roasted cherries, earth, and toast. There’s still some round tannin in this wine, which should carry it easily for several more years. But the bottles we opened earlier this week were elegant and delicious immediately.

AMIOT Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Charmes” 2014
The Charmes nose is bright and delicate, with fine mineral notes joining roses. It’s lively and expressive, more pretty and nuanced than rich and mouthfilling. Serve now with food or a decanter; in 5 years it’ll be even more charming.

GROS Vosne-Romanée 2014
Michel’s Vosne-Romanée is impossibly elegant. Showing classic violets and spice, the nose is enticing and seductive, with a long, perfectly crafted mouthfeel. As it opens up in the glass, notes of mushrooms, licorice, and cassis join the spice.

AMIOT Gevrey-Chambertin 1er “Combottes” 2014
From a premier cru vineyard surrounded by five grand crus, Combottes shows unusual depth and intensity. The nose is beautifully dark and floral nose, with notes of spice and mushrooms. The mouth is intense and rich, showing cassis, dark cherries and earth.

 

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Mixed Case: Gros/Amiot Sampler

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sampler price : $795/case

 

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90-point Premier Cru Volnay: Velvet and Silk in a Glass.

The wines of Burgundy are not known for their weight. Their grape is Pinot Noir, a delicate, thin-skinned grape that is relatively light in color. The region is relatively northern, and it’s often a struggle for the grapes to ripen fully.

But what they lack in weight, they more than make up in elegance. The reds of Burgundy are unmatched in their ability to convey complexity, subtlety, and grace. In the Côte de Nuits it’s hard to pick a favorite town, but in the Côte de Beaune one name stands above the rest.

Volnay embodies the velvety silkiness of red Burgundy as well as any town in the region. Our producer here is the Domaine Roger Belland, who marries Volnay’s elegance with the domaine’s approachable style. The result is exceptionally fine red Burgundy, that’s also drinkable young.

 

 

Master of Wine Jasper Morris highlights three premier crus as the finest vineyards in the town: Caillerets, Champans, and Santenots. (Texts from 1855 and 1920 single out the same three.) And so from a town with no Grand Crus, these wines are as good as Volnay gets. This Volnay is from the premier cru Santenots vineyard, right along the border with Meursault.

Belland’s 2014 Volnay-Santenots is seriously good wine. The nose shows plum, blackberry and spice; the mouth is tense and full, with fine tannins, and a savory, gamey finish. Burghound awarded 90 points, finding “really lovely detail,” “discreet floral aromas,” and “generous medium weight flavors.” This is richer than much Volnay, but doesn’t lack at all for subtlety and refinement.

Picture an old stone chateau on a hillside in Burgundy, on a drafty winter evening a century ago. There’s a crackling fireplace, flickering candles, and a hearty meat on the table — this Volnay is the wine in the glass.

 

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Belland Volnay 1er cru “Santenots” 2014

Ansonia Retail: $68
2+ bottle price : $59/bot

 

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2015 Crozes-Hermitage Returns: “The Best in 55 Years.”

Much has been written about the 2015 vintage in Burgundy, one of the best in a generation. But the vintage also brought impressive wines from elsewhere in France. In particular, the syrah-based wines of the Northern Rhône had a banner year in 2015. Master of Wine Jancis Robinson in a recent article proclaimed them “the best in 55 years.”

We don’t open 1962 Hermitage very often, so we’ll have to take her word for it. But we can say that they’re extraordinary wines — inky, dark, and mouthfilling but with exceptional balance and refined tannins. We sold out of this wine quickly back in August, but we’ve just restocked — and today it’s drinking better than ever.

 

 

The Northern Rhone is a geographic and stylistic halfway point between Burgundy and the South. The reds of the region combine Burgundy’s tradition of elegant, unblended wines with the South’s darker, richer grape varietals. The result is a marriage of Northern refinement and sun-baked Southern richness.

Denis Basset is a young winemaker who is passionate and very talented — the latest issue of the Guide Hachette featured two of his four wines, an impressive feat for a winemaker whose first vintage was only five years ago. His 2015 Crozes-Hermitage is a triumph — impossibly intense and concentrated, but at 13.5% alcohol a balanced and refreshing glass as well.

This wine has many happy years ahead of it, but with a decanter and a sturdy meal alongside, it’s a delight today. The color is a inky black-purple, with a savory nose showing cloves, blackberries and violets. The mouth is astonishingly dense, with young but polished tannins, and classic notes of plum and black pepper. We might not see another vintage like this until 2072.

 

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Saint Clair Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” 2015

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Finesse and Energy: Elegant Old-Vine Chablis.

When vines grow old it presents vignerons with a choice. Older vines mean lower yields, which can squeeze a domaine’s bottom line. But old vines also produce more concentrated and better quality juice, leading to wines of depth and intensity. We are always pleased to find vignerons who sacrifice quantity for quality and allow their vines to continue into old age.

The Domaine Gautheron in Chablis has kept a small plot of their oldest vines, now over 55 years old. The wine from this plot is a harmonious marriage of finesse and energy. There’s the refreshing stony minerality found in the best Chablis, but also an elegant roundness derived from the low-yielding old vines. The result of the combination is superb balance and depth.

 

 

Cyril Gautheron is a rising star here in Chablis. The Gautheron family has made wine in Chablis for 200 years, but Cyril has taken the reins with an unusual passion. Our visits with him regularly run late as he discusses the intricacies of his family’s property, and shows us unblended wines from dozens of plots.

Gautheron’s 2015 wines were all excellent. In a year with abundant sunshine, Cyril managed to maintain a clean freshness that keeps this wine lively. The nose shows chalk and lemon, with bright, clear notes and the faintest whisper of toast. The mouth is everything you want from Chablis — precise, elegant minerality, combined with pure, ripe Chardonnay fruit.

This wine fits beautifully on a Thanksgiving table — its lively mouthfeel and rich tension will keep your guests palates fresh all the way through pie.

 

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Gautheron Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2015

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Mixed Case: Thanksgiving Dinner Case

With so many different dishes and flavors spread across a Thanksgiving dinner table, wine pairing can be tricky. Our suggestion is to cover all your bases — we recommend having some white, red, and sparkling around to match everyone’s tastes and pairing preferences.

So here’s a sampler of four wines, all crisp and dry: a lively sparkling blend from Burgundy, a dry, zippy Burgundian Chardonnay, and two unoaked reds with low alcohol and refreshing mouthfeels. We’ve got lots of pairing ideas in our Thanksgiving Guide, but if you’re looking for a quick solution for around $20/bot, look no further.

Note: this case ships for free on the East Coast, so if you’re traveling for Thanksgiving we can send right to your hosts.

 

 

Picamelot Crémant “les Terroirs” NV: Crisp, dry sparkling wine from Burgundy; a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligoté. Look for green apple and brioche.

Thomas Bourgogne blanc 2015: Lively, toasty white Burgundy. This is pure Chardonnay, a classic, energetic white Burgundy. Look for hazelnut and lemon.

Monnet Juliénas Vieilles Vignes 2015: The perfect Thanksgiving red: juicy, crisp, and refreshing. This is pure, old vine gamay from the Beaujolais; violets and earth.

Demois Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2015: Cool, dense, organic, and rich. This is unoaked Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley, showing graphite and cranberry.

 

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Mixed Case: Thanksgiving Dinner Case

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Sampler price : $250/case

 

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Humble Greatness: Delicious New 92-point Gigondas

Châteauneuf-du-Pape dominates the south of France. No other town is more famous or produces more widely respected wines. But the relative anonymity of the surrounding towns belies the high quality of wine they produce. And while Châteauneuf-du-Pape will always be a more recognizable purchase, Gigondas provides more bang for your buck.

A case in point is Domaine les Goubert’s “Cuvée Florence.” Though it’s grown in Gigondas, in depth, complexity, and ageworthiness it more closely resembles a fine Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Made from only their best parcels of Grenache and Syrah, Cuvée Florence is noticeably better than many wines from its more famous neighbor.

We’ve been buying the Cuvée Florence for decades, and the quality continues to improve. The family’s thirty-something daughter Florence, whose birth inspired the creation of the cuvée back in the 1980s, is now the principal winemaker. (If you happen to be in Boston next week, Florence herself will be at the Newton Warehouse on Tuesday evening 6-9pm.)

 

 

The 2012 Cuvée Florence is fantastic, and drinking far better at this stage than many other vintages. The nose is deep and woodsy, showing cassis, leather, raspberry and spice. The mouth is cool, dense, and, as Jancis Robinson put it, “very well balanced.” Josh Raynolds awarded 90-92 points, finding “mocha, licorice, and violet.”

This is rich, dark wine that will fit perfectly alongside a fine cut of beef or rack of lamb. If it’s the name on the label you’re after, we have excellent Châteauneuf-du-Pape that will satisfy both palate and need for recognition. But if it’s value you seek, we recommend putting your money on the Cuvée Florence.

 

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Goubert Gigondas “Cuvée Florence” 2012

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The Perfect Thanksgiving Red: Rich, Inky Old-Vine Juliénas. $19

We work with a lot of winemakers with low profiles, but Jean-Marc Monnet’s might be the lowest. He has no roadsign, no website, and no other American importer. We’ve gotten lost trying to find his domaine two years in a row. Jean-Marc himself is as humble as his winery is hidden, but the wines themselves are a wholly different story.

Beaujolais has long been known for its unserious wines — over-marketed and under-cared-for. But Monnet’s Beaujolais has the complexity of a very good Côte d’Or Bourgogne rouge and the density of a Northern Rhône syrah. And from a rich year like 2015, Monnet’s gamays punch far above their weight and price.

 

 

Beaujolais is the perfect Thanksgiving wine — indeed, we have a whole section of our Thanksgiving Guide devoted to the stuff. It’s juicy and crisp, with fresh fruit and a crackling mouthfeel. It’s lively in the mouth and won’t tire your palate over the long meal.

Monnet’s old vine Juliénas is like his other wines, only more so. From 50+ year old vines and a ripe vintage, the density is exceptional. The color is inky purple, with a dark nose showing raspberry and pure wild cherry. The mouthfeel is intense and smooth with a long, dense finish of cranberry, minerals and violets. This is delicious, but as Jancis Robinson puts it, “meant to be drunk, not contemplated.”

We don’t claim to have discovered the perfection of Beaujolais-Thanksgiving pairing. But our advice is this: stay with Beaujolais but skip the Nouveau — a few bucks more gets you rich, dense, honest gamay.

 

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Monnet Juliénas Vieilles Vignes 2015

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Mixed Case: Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sampler ($105 off, plus Free Map)

Winter is Coming.  Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the perfect wine for cooler weather. Made famous by French popes in the 14th century, and then again by Robert Parker in the 1980s, the area is rich with winemaking history. Today the appellation, which covers only about 12 square miles, produces some of the most sought after wine in the world.

Here are four Chateauneuf-du-Papes from four different producers. They all have between three and six years of bottle age, and show the impressive variety of terroir available from the appellation. With fall here and winter on its way, this is the perfect mixed case to keep you warm.

As a bonus, the buyers of the first few samplers ordered will receive a new detailed map of the appellation (see photo below).

 

 

MESTRE Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2012
Christophe Mestre is an up and coming young winemaker from an old Châteauneuf family. His wines are traditional, smooth and easy to enjoy young. Vinous awarded his 2012 91 points, calling it “silky” and “seamless,” and noting its “zesty mineral flourish.”

MAUCOIL Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2014
Château Maucoil is an ancient property on the site of a Roman era spring. Their red Châteauneuf-du-Pape is classic and elegant, with dark plum fruit, and notes of jam, licorice, lavender and earth.

ANDRÉ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013
Jacqueline André carefully coaxes an extraordinary wine from her 140-year-old vines. The first domaine certified organic and biodynamic in the appellation, André makes a single, exquisite cuvée from exceptional raw materials. Look for earth, garrigue, and figs.

FONT DU LOUP Chateauneuf “Puy Rolland” 2011
Made exclusively from 100-year old Grenache vines, this special cuvée from the Chateau de la Font du Loup is magnificent. With extremely concentrated fruit and beautiful fine-grained tannins, look for notes of strawberry jam and a very silky mouthfeel.

 

 

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Mixed Case: Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sampler

Ansonia Retail: $600
sampler price : $495/case

 

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