Notes from Harpswell: No. 12

Wherever they live, people notice the subtle changes that mark the turn of the seasons; sometimes consciously, sometimes by feel, one way or another everyone senses the turn. Moving from the heart of a big city to a sparsely peopled seacoast means adjusting to new indicators — particularly when it comes with a change of almost four degrees of latitude and five of longitude. Up here, without the Phillies and Rita’s Water Ice to announce the arrival of Spring, we look to the ducks.

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Weeknight Sangiovese, and the Pleasure of Life. $19

We’re looking forward to our trip to France next week. We will tasting with some exciting new prospects, and revisiting many of our old favorites. As the current three-month rail strike and “Easter Monday” holiday have reminded us, things move a bit slower in Europe. While it can be frustrating in matters of business, there’s no doubt that the pace is healthier for the soul.

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Mixed Half-Case: Gevrey-Chambertin Sampler, $91 off

When the words “muscular” and “red Burgundy” appear together, Gevrey-Chambertin is likely the subject. The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin are generally considered Burgundy’s richest, and can be among the longest lived. Clive Coates MW calls them “sturdy, rich, masculine” and “fleshy,” concluding that they’re “more flamboyant than Vosne, and more substantial than Chambolle.”

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“Beguiling” New Chianti Classico: Approachable and Affordable. $25

The most important thing in winemaking is the marriage of grape and place. Chardonnay grows on nearly every continent, but only in Burgundy does it produce such superlative results. Syrah in the Northern Rhône, Merlot in Bordeaux, Riesling in the Mosel, Chenin Blanc in the Loire — these matches have been perfected over centuries of winemaking. Also on that list is the marriage of Sangiovese to Tuscany.

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The Best of the Best: Exquisite 2016 Grand Cru White Burgundy

Only two white wine terroirs in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or hold the status of Grand Cru. Montrachet and its satellites, in the south between Chassagne and Puligny, are the more famous. The other is Corton-Charlemagne, perched on a large hill marking the midpoint of the Côte d’Or, so named after it was made a gift from the Holy Roman Emperor.

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“The Best-Value Chardonnay in the World.”

St. Aubin is the insider’s white Burgundy. For years we’ve pointed our friends and customers here for remarkable values. We are not alone – author/sommelier Rajat Parr writes that “it produces some of the best-value Chardonnays in the world.” Jancis Robinson recently wrote that though once passed over for its more famous neighbors Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet, St-Aubin “should now be regarded as virtually their equal.”

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Irresistible Premier Cru White Burgundy: 91 points, $36

Chablis remains one of the best bargains in the wine world. Though the past few years have brought devastating frosts and hailstorms to the region and available quantities have plummeted, winemakers have only gently raised prices. Where village level white Burgundies from the Côte d’Or quickly push past $60, fine Premier Cru Chablis can still be had for under $40.

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Mixed Case: Steak Pairing Sampler

The best food-wine pairings enhance both elements. Oysters and Chablis, blue cheese and Sauternes, tomato sauce and Sangiovese — these classic pairings have been around so long for a reason. And among the most traditional (and successful) is steak and red wine. Bordeaux may be more famous for its marriage with steak, but we think […]

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Perfect Everyday Côtes-du-Rhône: $14.95

Côtes du Rhône is one of the world’s most widely recognizable wine brands. There’s a wide range of styles out there, and we have favorites in many camps. For rustic and rugged we like the Domaine les Goubert. For refined and serious, we like the Domaine Malmont. But for easygoing, fruit-forward, and effortlessly drinkable, it’s hard to beat the Domaine Coulange.

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