Thomas Wilcox, Author at Ansonia Wines

Posted on October 2, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

Crisp Syrah for Autumn. $19.95

Blackberries. Syrah is a grape of many forms. Grown everywhere from Spain to Switzerland to South Africa, it ranges from rich and dark to delicate and refreshing. But most agree that Syrah’s finest expression comes from the Northern Rhône, in places like Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, and Saint-Joseph.

Vines planted on the steep slopes of the Northern Rhône Valley require hand treatment and harvesting (tractors would tip over), and so their price tags are often hefty. But one of the region’s finest sources, the Domaine Bonnefond, also makes a simpler wine from near their famous vines. This wine offers all the freshness and liveliness of Northern Rhône syrah, but at a much friendlier price.

Bistro Wine. The Bonnefonds don’t make much of their simpler Syrah, and in some years we’re not allocated any at all. This year we managed to snag a few cases, and we don’t expect them to last long. This is dangerously drinkable wine — something you might find in a Parisian bistro. It’s not something to cellar, or to serve to visiting dignitaries, but it will wash down a hearty steak or wood fired pizza with style.

The nose on the 2014 Bonnefond Syrah is full of dark fruits, bright violets, and spices like clove and allspice. The mouth is light, almost Pinot-like in texture, showing blackberries and very mild tannins. In the nose it’s complex and expressive; in the mouth it’s brisk and refreshing. This is classic Northern Rhône syrah, to be enjoyed with friends, food, and merriment.

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BONNEFOND Syrah 2014
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case: $19.95/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 30, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

8-Year-Old, Toasty Red Burgundy.

Bottle Aged. Most wine in the US is opened too young. Blame it on retailers moving inventory or on our age of impatience, but it’s increasingly rare to enjoy a bottle that has been been properly cellared. Which is why we’re always excited to find older vintages still available at French domaines.

We tasted today’s wine last year during a visit to the Domaine Amiot, and brought in a few cases this spring. Amiot’s Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Millandes” from 07 is not a wine to keep for decades more. But it’s proof of what proper conditions and a bit of patience can achieve — a smoky, woodsy red Burgundy with beautifully softened red fruit.

Premier Cru. Amiot’s small plot in Millandes (just over an acre) yields only 200 cases a year. But its location (adjoining the Grand Cru Clos St-Denis) and older vines (planted in the 1950s and 60s) make it a gem. Millandes always requires some cellaring to reach its peak, but today we’re in luck: the Amiots have done it for us.

The Millandes 07 shows raspberry and wild cherry fruit in the nose — now eight years after the harvest, it has begun to show toasty “sous bois” elements like mushrooms and forest floor. The tannins have softened, but retain enough structure to match with foods; the Amiots suggest red meats and affinéed cheeses.

We think a wintery stew would match this wine perfectly, particularly served in an old stone chateau with a roaring fire. If you’re light on castles, the stew will probably suffice.

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AMIOT Morey-St-Denis 1er “Millandes” 07
Ansonia Retail: $70
case, half-case: $62/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 29, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

No-Oak Chardonnay: Honey and Tangerine.

Passion. We stumbled upon the Domaine Nicolas Maillet last year during a visit to the Maconnais, and he has turned out to be one of our best finds. Maillet is a man full of passion — for his vineyards, for his rootstocks, for biodynamics, and for the purity of his harvest. And he manages to translate all of this energy into extraordinary wines.

During our last visit in June, Maillet loaded us into his rickety jeep and drove us deep into his vines. He earnestly pointed out the subtleties of exposition of his valley, and showed us the evidence of success from the recent flowering. Back at the domaine he explained (with no less passion) his unusual method of fermentation, which involves many strains of indigenous yeast over many months at very cool temperatures.

Maillet doesn’t lack confidence in his techniques, and after a sip of his wine, you won’t either.

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Purity. We discovered a new wine from Maillet on this visit — the Macon-Verzé. Readers who remember the Macon-Igé from earlier this year should be very impressed with the Macon-Verzé, which resembles it closely, but shows noticeably more expression in the nose, and perhaps more exotic fruit in the mouth.

We opened this for a tasting last night on the North Shore of Massachusetts, and it was huge hit. The nose is remarkably expressive and lush, showing white flowers, tangerine, and apricot. The mouth is classic Maillet — rich and long and pure, but with striking freshness and a beautiful baked lemon core. With no oak to overshadow the fruit, this is a classic Maconnais, showing beautiful, unadulterated ripe fruit.

As Anthony Hanson once wrote about another of our favorites from the region, all you need with this wine is two glasses and a friend.

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MAILLET Macon-Verzé 2013
Ansonia Retail: $28
case, half-case: $24/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 27, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

Pure White Burgundy since 1839.

À la famille. We recently celebrated our sixth year as a père et fils business, a multigenerational approach that is common in Burgundy. The Belland family in Santenay is a particularly impressive example. Their domaine has operated since 1839, and today Roger and his daughter Julie comprise the 5th and 6th generations. With 176 years of experience, the Bellands know their terroir intimately.

The Bellands have used no herbicides for more than 20 years, and their wines are all careful, pure expressions of their origin. This is not a flashy domaine — there’s a small sign next to the door on the street, and you have to enter their cellar before seeing any of their many winemaking awards. But Clive Coates calls them “one of the best sources in Santenay,” and we agree.

Autumn White Burgundy. In the past few years we’ve focused on Belland reds, which are bright, punchy, and delicious, with excellent minerality and fruit. But during our visit in June, his lineup of whites stole the show. We struggled to narrow our choice to three, and we’re pleased to introduce the first today — a village level Santenay. (Keep an eye out next month for white Belland 1er crus from Santenay and Chassagne.)

Belland’s Santenay blanc “Comme Dessus” is a beautiful white Burgundy. The nose is floral and pretty, with white flowers and lemon rind. The mouth is particularly intense, with impressive length and excellent tension. Belland employs very little oak, and this wine is about purity, minerality, and fruit. The ample body makes it lovely on its own, but the solid acidity means it will also match well with food.

We’d serve this with a roast chicken on a Sunday afternoon, though if the bottle is opened when the chicken goes into the oven, you may need a second by the time it’s done. We’ll toast you with thanks for another year in the business, and you can toast the Famille Belland.

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BELLAND Santenay “Comme Dessus” 2013
Ansonia Retail: $34
case, half-case: $29/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 25, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

Exciting New Old-Vine Pouilly-Fumé.

Discovery. It was a cool and dewy morning in the Loire Valley when we visited the Domaine Frederic Michot back in June. We had little more to go on than a brief note in a French wine guide promising a small scale, excellent Pouilly-Fumé. The rutted tracks in the ridges above the hamlet led to a modest house with a small tasting room attached.

Frederic himself was away, but his mother greeted us warmly and proudly showed us her son’s two wines. She had reason to be proud. Both were delicious, and we found Michot’s old-vine Pouilly-Fumé extraordinary. From vines planted in the 1940s — “juste après la guerre,” Madame put it — it was a pure Sauvignon Blanc, of unusual intensity and depth.

We asked about the price. Madame had no idea, and told us Frederic would be in touch. With fingers crossed for a low number, we spent the rest of the day visiting better known estates with less impressive wine. And when Frederic emailed us that night, we knew we had found our man.

An Autumn White. We’ve always liked Pouilly-Fumé, a lesser known cousin to Sancerre. Fumé is a reference to the smoky nose of gunflint often found in wines from the appellation. At its best Pouilly-Fumé is a delicious expression of Sauvignon Blanc, tending to show grapefruit and honey alongside the flinty smoke.

Michot’s old vine Pouilly-Fumé is called “Cuvée Sainte Clara,” both for his daughter and the saint in a stained glass window in his town’s small church. We opened a bottle last night, and it’s just as good as we remembered. The nose is of grapefruit rind, mango, and wild herbal honey; the mouth is intense and very rich, with grapefruit and lime rind freshness sustaining an unusually long finish.

This will pair beautifully with grilled seafood, broiled haddock, or a plate of fresh oysters. With a dense mouthfeel and ample freshness, this is a perfect white to carry us into the fall.

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MICHOT Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes 2014
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case: $18/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 23, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

Blueberry Jam and Wild Thyme. $25

Regression to the Mean. As the world’s climate warms, the world’s wines have warmed as well. With grapes able to ripen in ever more locations, an “international” style has emerged: very ripe fruit, soft tannins, new oak, and high alcohol. They’re the drugstore paperbacks of the wine world — fast and easy, but not particularly distinctive or interesting.

Our favorite wines are representations of a place. And it’s for this reason that we’re drawn to the wines of the Domaine des Accoles. Grown in rugged, mountainous region of Ardèche in south central France, the Accoles wines represent their region and winemaker perfectly. They’re dark, earthy, and complex, but in the elegant style of Burgundy-schooled winemaker.

Autumn Red. The Accoles Miocène 2013 is a blend of Grenache and Carignan from vines planted in the 1960s. These two high-yield varietals produce particularly interesting wines in their later years, as their production decreases and concentration increases. The result is wine full of density and character, perfect for roasted meats or root vegetables

Accoles practices biodynamic viticulture and vinification, and their wines show the complexity and depth possible from this technique. In the nose, the Miocène is earthy blueberry jam and wild thyme; the mouth is long and complex, showing earth, cranberry, and smoke. The tannins are fine and dense, and at 13% alcohol this is beautifully balanced.

We enjoyed this last night with skirt steak and roasted cauliflower. Any roasted meat would do; a cassoulet would be magnificent.

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ACCOLES Miocène 2013
Ansonia Retail: $30
case, half-case: $25/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 21, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

Everyday Côtes-du-Rhône. $11.95

Uncomplicated. Côtes du Rhône is one of the world’s most recognizable brands. From Parisian bistro chalkboards to grocery store shelves in the States, it seems to be everywhere. And as with most popular appellations, we’ve had bottles both memorable and forgettable.

For us, the best Côte-du-Rhônes are dark and full of fruit – with balanced alcohol and mild tannins. For dense and hearty, we like the Domaine les Goubert; but for classic, fruit-filled, and drinkable, our pick is from the Domaine Coulange.

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By the Glass. From the northern end of the Southern Rhône Valley, Coulange’s “Cuvée Mistral” is clean, uncomplicated, delicious wine. We think of it as our at-home by-the-glass wine – several restaurants do too – and at $12/bot it’s easy to do so. It’s a wine you don’t have to think hard about to enjoy.

Cuvée Mistral is 4/5 Grenache, 1/5 Syrah – full of the dark, fresh, unoaked fruit we love in a good Côtes du Rhone. It’s neither heavy nor hot, but the Syrah contributes depth and food-pairing potential. Mistral is the red we reach for when we’re not sure what else to serve.

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COULANGE Mistral 2012
Ansonia Retail: $14
case price: $11.95/bot

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AVAILABLE BY THE CASE

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Posted on September 20, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

Rich, Golden White Burgundy. $22

Fermentation. Most of Burgundy completed the harvest last week, with all signs pointing toward an excellent 2015 vintage. As once tractor-filled streets return to their sleepy normalcy, the excitement and celebration in the air has given way to the sweet, yeasty smell of fermentation.

Most wines go through two fermentations — the alcoholic fermentation, happening now, converts natural sugars into alcohol. The second, the “malolactic” fermentation, converts malic acid (found in apples and tart fruits) into a softer lactic acid (found in milk). The effect effect of the malolactic fermentation is to soften a wine and to thicken its mouthfeel.

“Thickness” can be an attractive quality in white wine, provided it’s not overdone, as it is in many New World wines. The best white Burgundies possess a bright acidity that helps keep them lively and balanced. One of our favorite styles of this thick but balanced white Burgundy comes from the Domaine Ravaut in Ladoix.

Cool Weather White. The Ravaut family is the ultimate local wine source. A generation ago the Ravauts developed a clientele among the workers in the quarries next door, and today they continue to sell more than half of their wine to local customers. They fly mostly below the radar of the international wine press, and we feel lucky to have found them. (Pictured above is Vincent Ravaut during the 2013 harvest.)

We’ve bought out the Ravauts’ remaining stock of 2012 Bourgogne blanc, and it arrived in our warehouse last week — it’s a delicious wine at an impressive price. With a rich mouthfeel and beautiful balance, this is a wine for gourmands – it’s generous, easy to drink, and pairs beautifully with food. There are faint notes of fennel and coconut, next to the traditional lemon and toast. And the richness makes it a perfect cooler-weather white wine. Try it with a risotto – squash or mushroom are our favorites.

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RAVAUT Bourgogne blanc 2012
Ansonia Retail: $25
case, half-case price: $22/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 18, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

Dense, Juicy Red Burgundy.

Now’s the time. Many wine collectors seek out red Burgundies for their longevity. Aged well, the best can improve for decades. With time in the bottle, these wines develop extraordinary nuances, unlike any other food or drink. But not all red Burgundy requires such patience.

The 2013 Maranges 1er cru from Roger Belland has only had about a year in the bottle, but it’s astonishingly drinkable today. The wine is bursting with young and bright fruit, but the mouthfeel is remarkably smooth and the tannins beautifully soft. It’s a drinkable red Burgundy priced for a weeknight.

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Dark and dense. In an era when intra-regional blending was more common, Maranges was called “le Médecin” (the doctor), known for darkening up weakly colored reds from elsewhere in Burgundy. Belland’s 2013 Maranges would qualify as a “doctor” in intensity rather than tannin – there’s concentrated, rich, juicy red fruit that is sometimes lacking in wines from Burgundy’s less famous appellations.

The nose is deep cherry and blackberry, very clean and ripe. The mouthfeel is midweight and dense, with tannins that are firm but round, with no hint of raspiness. Next to a Vosne 1er cru, a Maranges might seem a bit rustic, but there’s a time and a place for everything. Next to a grilled steak and sautéed greens — and at a fifth of the price of the Vosne — the bottle of this we enjoyed last night was perfection itself.

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BELLAND Maranges 1er cru 2013
Ansonia Retail: $34
case, half-case price: $28/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 16, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

Pure Grenache: Earth and Cherry Pie

BCE. The Languedoc is an ancient winegrowing region. The Greeks were the first to plant here, in the fifth century BC, and so Languedoc wine predates France itself. The region has had its ups and downs over the last two millennia, and until recently earned its reputation for mediocre, uninteresting wine.

Today the Languedoc is known less for its storied history than for its promising future. A crowd of young winemakers has descended on the ancient land, bringing new philosophies, innovative techniques, and a renewed passion for winemaking.

Our favorites among this new wave of vignerons are Blandine Chauchat and Pierre Jéquier of the Mas Foulaquier in Pic-St-Loup. Robert Parker’s reviewer for the region David Schildknecht called them “one of the six or eight most exciting and consistently excellent sources in the Languedoc.”

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Pure and complex. Foulaquier’s range of wines is impressive, but it’s “Petit Duc” that has become our favorite in recent years. Petit Duc is made from 100% Grenache, grown in Foulaquier’s signature biodynamic, low-intervention style — no chemical treatment in the vines, no filtering, and minimal sulfite use. The resulting wines are remarkably complex and fresh, showing an earthiness and depth that we’ve only found from biodynamic production.

The 2012 Petit Duc shows off the domaine’s elegant aromatic freshness, with a cherry-strawberry nose that might even be described as Burgundian. The mouth is bolder and rich, showing sturdy tannins and a long, complex mouth feel. At 13% alcohol, it’s fresh and balanced — we’d pair it with a roast meat, like lamb or beef tenderloin.

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FOUALQUIER Petit Duc 2012
Ansonia Retail: $28
case, half-case price: $24.95/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 14, 2015September 14, 2015 by Thomas Wilcox

Mixed Case: an Autumn Collection

A Chill in the Air. With September weather finally in the air these days, we welcome the signs of autumn: yellow schoolbuses, wool sweaters, and the return of football. As cooler days turn to even chillier nights, our palates turn towards denser, more full-bodied reds, and whites with some depth and roundness.

We’ve put together a collection of two whites and two reds to help ring in the new season. The reds are from the south of France, where the warm Provencal sun contributes richness and depth to the wines; the whites are a round, unoaked wine from Alsace, and a mouthfilling Premier Cru white Burgundy. These everyday-priced wines should be right at home as your kitchen turns from grilling to roasts, and from barbeque to stew.

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The Bagatelle St. Chinian “Veillée d’Automne” 2011 is a syrah-based wine from the Languedoc. Though dark and full-bodied and rich, this wine also manages to avoid the traps of high-alcohol and over-ripeness.

The 2011 “Calades” from the Mas Foulaquier is a classic cool weather wine. It’s a blend of Syrah and Grenache, and shows beautiful notes of earth, plum jam, blackcurrants, and sous-bois (woodsiness).

Gautheron’s Chablis 1er cru “Vaucoupin” is a classic, unoaked Chablis. It draws its considerable richness from the soil and vines, rather than wood, and retains the beautiful freshness and minerality for which Chablis is known.

The Mersiol Auxerrois is an unusual grape from Alsace, similar to a Pinot Blanc. The nose is peach and apricot; the mouth is dry but balances a rich, long mouthfeel with sturdy, food-friendly acidity.

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MIXED CASE: AN AUTUMN COLLECTION

3x Bagatelle St. Chinian 2011: $22
3x Foulaquier Calades 2011: $30
3x Gautheron Chablis 1er cru 2013: $28
3x Mersiol Auxerrois 2013: $17
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Ansonia Retail: $291
mixed-case price: $245/case (save $46)

(free East Coast shipping)

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Posted on September 10, 2015September 10, 2015 by Thomas Wilcox

Sauvignon Blanc: Smoke and Grapefruit

Fruit and Flint. Sauvignon blanc grows around the world, from California to South Africa to New Zealand. But its origin is most likely the Loire Valley, where it took its name from its resemblance to wild (savuage) grape vines. And it is here, particularly in the neighboring towns of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, that Sauvignon blanc finds its purest expression.

The Fumé in Pouilly-Fumé, refers to the smoky, gunflint character found in many of the wines from the town. Smokiness is one of our favorite characteristics of Pouilly-Fumé, and today’s wine displays it beautifully. Most attribute the phenomenon to the high concentration of silex (flint) in the soils, but whatever it comes from, it’s a unique and lovely attribute.

Pure and precise. The other things we look for in Pouilly Fumé are ripe fruits, dry mouthfeel, and good acidity. The Domaine des Mariniers has (happily) avoided the recent trend toward oaking Pouilly-Fumé, and what’s left is a pure Sauvignon blanc showing a beautifully expressive nose and excellent density in the mouth.

The bottle we opened last night was striking. The nose, bursting with honey and grapefruit and pineapple, reminded us of an Alsatian Gewurztraminer; but the mouth was all Loire Valley — crisp, dry, long and very dense. We’d pair it with any seafood, particularly oysters, but would recommend enjoying a bit on its own beforehand.

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MARINIERS Pouilly-Fumé 2013
Ansonia Retail: $26
half-case price: $22/bot
case price: $19.95/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 8, 2015March 3, 2016 by Thomas Wilcox

Cool, Refreshing, (Real) Beaujolais. $18

Graphite and Cranberry. The wines of Beaujolais get an unfair rap. Their brand has been linked to the Beaujolais Nouveau, a cloying, fruity wine made just weeks after the harvest. But those drinkers who avoid the region entirely miss out on some exceptional wines.

Beaujolais produces much wine besides the overhyped nouveau and some of it — namely those from the 10 “Beaujolais Cru” villages — can be extraordinarily good. One of our favorite Crus is Juliénas, a small appellation of just over 2 square miles. These sturdy, low-alcohol, refreshing wines are a lovely match for the coming fall.

Unpretentious. Wine has been made at the Chateau de Juliénas since the 15th century. Today the Condemine family runs the domaine with a friendly modesty, and their wines are similarly welcoming. Last night we opened the 2011 Juliénas Prestige, and found it delicious and unusually complex. The nose was graphite, deep cranberry, and wild honey; the mouth showed a juicy attack followed by a muted, softened mouthfeel.

Beaujolais can be serious wine, but it’s rarely self-righteous. As Jancis Robinson puts it, “Beaujolais is meant to be drunk, rather than discussed or collected.” We cooled last night’s bottle for a half-hour in the fridge, and serve it over beside grilled chicken with visiting guests. It wasn’t the star of the meal, but it wasn’t supposed to be; and there certainly wasn’t any left to save for the fridge.

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JULIÉNAS Cuvée Prestige 2011
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case price: $18/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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Posted on September 6, 2015June 27, 2017 by Thomas Wilcox

Mixed Case: Michel Gros Red Burgundies

Masterful. Michel Gros is perhaps the most recognizable producer in our portfolio, and his wines are well deserving of their praise. Gros makes wines from four villages along the Côte de Nuits: Nuits-St-Georges, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle Musigny, and his home town Vosne-Romanée.

Gros’s red Burgundies are all elegant and precise, often showing smoky or toasty qualities, and always silky and beautiful. We’ve put together a mixed case of Gros’s red village-level wines in this month’s Notebook. This collection showcases the unique terroirs of the Gros family properties, and the skill of a master winemaker.

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Three of Each. The Nuits-St-Georges is Gros’s most masculine wine, showing dark notes of licorice, smoke and game. This case includes the 2009, a wine from a ripe, near-perfect vintage, now with over half a decade under its belt.

The Chambolle Musigny is the smooth, silky one from this bunch — think spice and plums. A majority of this wine comes from a plot of vines adjoining the Grand Cru “Le Musigny,” and we like to think of this as a Chambolle with extra Musigny.

The Morey-St-Denis is the most precise and elegant of Gros’s village-wines, showing delicate minerality and an extraordinarily complex nose. Look for blackberries, velvet, and excellent concentration.

Vosne-Romanée is home to the Gros domaine and the town where Michel has always lived. Critics call Vosne “the greatest Pinot Noir village on earth,” and Gros’s representation of the town is clear and true: violets, dark chocolate, cassis, and licorice. It’s what every red Burgundy aspires to be, and what few achieve.

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MIXED CASE: MICHEL GROS

3x Nuit-St-Georges 2009: $70
3x Vosne-Romanée 2012: $75
3x Chambolle-Musigny 2012: $76
3x Morey-St-Denis 2012: $68
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Ansonia Retail: $867
mixed-case price: $695/case (save $172)

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MIXED HALF-CASE: MICHEL GROS

(2 Nuits, 2 Vosne, 1 Chambolle, 1 Morey)

Ansonia Retail: $434
mixed-case price: $349/case (save $85)

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Posted on September 4, 2015September 6, 2015 by Thomas Wilcox

Salt Air and Plum Jam. $15

High Yields. Carignan is the most widely planted grape you never heard of. It covers nearly 80% of the vast Languedoc, and given free rein the grape can yield 200hl/ha (versus about 30 in Burgundy). This is a formula for ordinary wine.

But kept in check and grown carefully, Carignan can produce really delicious wine. Located in the appellation Fitou, the Domaine Bertrand-Bergé does both, achieving yields of 40 hl/ha, and wines of delicious depth. Jancis Robinson cites Bertrand-Bergé as an example of the “purity” possible in wines from Fitou.

Sauvage. Fitou is along the Mediterranean coast, about 30 minutes north of the French-Spanish border. The local accent is so thick as to verge on a dialect, and both the region and the wines have a rugged windswept character. These aren’t wines to age, or to hold as investments — they’re uncomplicated bottles to be enjoyed with a few friends and a good meal.

We opened a bottle of the Fitou “Origines” 2011 last night with pasta, and found it beautifully drinkable. The nose is dark cranberries and a hint of menthol; the mouth is smooth and dense and chewy, with rustic notes of woods and plum jam. There’s even a faint savory almost-saltiness that recalls the nearby Mediterranean.

Our last few cases of this wine have just arrived from the warehouse. It’s probably too rich to drink in 90 degree heat, but with September’s autumn chill sure to arrive in the next few weeks, this is just the cork to pull as you break out your sweaters

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BERTRAND-BERGÉ Fitou “Origines” 2011
Ansonia Retail: $18
case, half-case price: $15/bot

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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS

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